Guy Travel
By ROBERT ELIAS DEATON
I
Overlooking the picturesque town of Provincetown
n 1620, the Mayflower, carrying 100 separatists from England and Holland, landed on the tip of Cape Cod and not--though that poses no problem, since the hotel was anchored just off the shore of what is now Provincetown. positioned on a crest overlooking the harbor and receives It was a brutal November day, as Novembers can be in cooling bay breezes year-round. Rates start under $100 P-Town. Within the week, the Pilgrims decided that the a night. The CastAways restaurant is open for breakfast place was a little too rough and exposed for their needs, and lunch, with the Lobby Piano Bar open nightly at 10 and they continued on to Plymouth Rock, directly across p.m. The Purgatory Leather Dance Bar is in the cellar and appropriately dark and nasty, particularly on Sunday Cape Cod Bay on the mainland. Before they left the tiny tip of Cape Cod, however, nights when there’s always a line for admission. For the ultimate in luxury and she-she-indulgence, they signed the Mayflower Compact, which established the laws that governed this group of religious extremists just across the street is the Crowne Pointe Historic Inn & Spa (82 Bradford St., 877-276-9631) where the who formed the backbone of innkeepers provide working fireplaces, pillowAmerica’s original colonies. topped beds, homecooked breakfasts, and a The village of Provincetown heated pool complete with towel boys and drink was eventually taken over by service. The Bistro at Crowne Point is a highlyPortuguese fisherman who recommended gourmet restaurant, where the found the harbor a perfect views are nearly as splendid as the cuisine. Dress launch point for their daily The CastAways restaurant, up and act the part. fishing runs. And so it remained cute to the last detail For longer stays, contact the legendary girls until the mid-30s, when artists and writers discovered this remote spot, and began its rise at Pied Piper Real Estate (199 Commercial St. # 8, 508487-1528). Our favorites Betty Newman and Phoebe Otis into one of the gayest spots in America. You arrive in Provincetown through Boston are privy to all the choice rentals for a week, month, or throughout the whole season. International Airport, connecting to P-Town The façade of the Crowne Pointe Personalized treatment is the on Cape Air (866-CAPE-AIR), or via high-speed Historic Inn & Spa hallmark here, and you will ferries (carrying people, pets and bicycles, but end up recommending these no cars). Book a seat on Bay State Cruises gals to your friends. They will (877-PT-FERRY), or the slightly slower and be the first to tell you that a cheaper Boston Harbor Cruises (877-SEEbike is the most you’ll ever WHALE) with transportation provided at the need to get around, while airport in Boston to either ferry via water taxi. much of the town’s action From P-Town airport, taxis or shuttles make the quick five-minute haul into the center of the can be reached on foot, walking down the packed main village, where you will find a choice of luxurious guest throughfare—Commercial Street. Next week, we’ll fill you in on all the restaurants, houses, family motels, or the famous Gifford House Inn (9 Carver St., 800-434-0130)—the original hotel which clothing stores, clubs, galleries, cruise spots, and gyms— was the final stop of the stagecoach in 1858, and is still plus the oh-so-special public library, which is a mustin business today. Run by Jim Fosse, The Gifford House visit on anyone’s vacation schedule. Like many things provides straightforward rooms on three floors reached Provincetown, it’s old, it’s colorful, and oh-so-gay. via the original stairs. While all the rooms have private Robert Elias Deaton is a world-traveling epicure baths, ask about AC—some rooms have it, some do who enjoys the finer things in life.
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