2023 Burgundy En Primeur - Flint - Private Clients
Welcome
This, our main release of the 2023 vintage in Burgundy, comprises some forty-four producers situated on the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits.
Some forty-five thousand words within are the triumphant result of many weeks of tasting in Burgundy by our Founding Director and Burgundy Buyer Jason Haynes over the year, including over a month spent on the Côte d’Or this autumn alone.
As Jason writes, below, “the 2023 vintage has exaggerated [Burgundy’s] intricacies and nuances to a remarkable level, which arguably makes it the most interesting vintage in Burgundy for many a year.”
It is a vintage that encourages consideration and discovery. In short, a dream.
Included in this release are four new producers for Flint. Charles Boigelot is a future star of Meursault, who’s worked at some illustrious names before returning to the family domaine. Based in Saint-Romain, Romain BaroletPernot works with impressive holdings, making a range of wines that have seriously enthralled us over the last two vintages. In Pommard, Louis Belleroche is bringing Domaine Lejeune back to life, with 2023 his first vintage: he is one to watch. Meanwhile, Charles van Canneyt’s new property in Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest holder of Griotte-Chambertin, and quality is precisely what you’d expect from such a high-class winemaker.
This year, for the first time, we have decided not to include the wines of Chablis, the Mâconnais, or the Côte Chalonnaise in this main release. They will be afforded their own spotlight in the spring.
We would ask you to make your requests prior to Monday, 6th January, and we will come back to you with confirmation of allocations from 10th January. In some cases, prices were not yet available at the time of publication – these are marked TBC. Please contact your account manager with any questions or requests, or email finewine@flintwines.com.
Happy reading!
The Flint Team
Late releases
As in previous years, some producers will release their wines after the main release:
Domaine Lorenzon
Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat
Domaine Paul Pillot & Thierry Pillot
Domaine des Lambrays week of 10th March
Domaine Denis Mortet
Domaine Buisson-Battault
Domaine Dujac week of 9th June
Domaine Georges Noëllat
Domaine Hubert Lamy
Domaine des Comtes Lafon the 2022 vintage
2023 Vintage report
Burgundy is perhaps the most intricate and nuanced wine region in the world, despite its core (the fabled Côte d’Or) being really quite small. However, the 2023 vintage has exaggerated these intricacies and nuances to a remarkable level, which arguably makes it the most interesting vintage in Burgundy for many a year.
The Burgundians never tire of remarking on the incredibly localised nature of the weather, but even they must have been somewhat surprised by its differing impacts on the various villages that make up this unique landscape in 2023.
So, where to begin? Normally, a degree of generalisation is more than acceptable, but in 2023, beyond stating that it was once again a mild winter resulting in a now commonplace risk of a devasting spring frost, generalisations are best avoided.
Having spent some time tasting the new vintage in both April and June, I returned for another month this autumn, intrigued to see what a further 4 or 5 months of élévage had done to these fascinating wines.
As a whole, 2023 was the hottest year on record. However, delve a little deeper than this headline-grabbing statement and the picture isn’t that simple. The higher average temperature was heavily inflated by the very mild winter months and, in reality, the period from April through to mid-August was not overly hot. There was the occasional spike, but these had limited impact as they paralysed the maturation process of the vine and thus potential sugar levels did not rise dramatically. Rain tended to arrive when needed and hailstorms had a muted impact on yields, which were certainly a major talking point in this vintage.
Some growers did both green and blue harvesting (this is the first time I have encountered this term, which basically means a second green harvest) and intense sorting in both the vineyards and the cuverie, and still ended up with significantly higher yields than usual. This, in itself isn’t a bad thing. Sometimes vines are just abundant. For example 1999 is a big vintage, but the red wines are gorgeously classical and only just starting to really hit their stride.
But despite the fact that it was, on the whole, a generous vintage, (possibly a delayed reaction by the vines to the serious frosts of 2021), other growers pointed out that thanks to their approach to pruning and debudding earlier in the year, and also to the age of their vines, yields did not get above their usual levels. In short, the picture in 2023 is never uniform.
Rather, what was key in this vintage was how growers adapted their work in the vineyards to the weather, and their work in the cellar to the style and quality of the grapes they harvested. “2023 est un millésime du vigneron” is a refrain I heard countless times during my four weeks in Burgundy.
Back to the season itself. As is often the case, flowering took place a few days later in the more northerly Côte de Nuits than the Côte de Beaune. This, in itself, was not overly significant, but its influence on the date of the harvest (traditionally growers would plan their harvest to begin roughly 100 days after flowering if the growing season went according to plan) would prove to be incredibly important.
As harvest time loomed parts of the Côte were some way off full maturity. The weather was a little indecisive and, judging by the colours of the bunches, it looked like quite a
bit more hang time would be needed. Then, in the second half of August, proper heat arrived, becoming more intense by the day. Suddenly, the vines kicked into action and the bunches darkened. Sugar levels began to rise and, in turn, acidity levels began to waiver. Pickers were quickly mobilised and final preparations began. Chardonnay growers in the Côte de Beaune began picking from around the 29th August, aside from the usual acid crunchers who like to be the first out of the blocks. Once picking began they had to be quick as the heat in the first week of September reached crazy levels, with alcohols rising by almost half a degree per day. Harvesting in temperatures of 35 degrees is not fun, and the majority of domaines set their morning alarms very early and only picked until lunchtime or the early afternoon.
In the Côte de Nuits, it was a little more relaxed. The later flowering meant the due date for the reds was slightly after the one for the whites. Yet even then there was huge variation in starting dates. Arnaud Mortet in GevreyChambertin began on the 3rd, while Mark Fincham, of Domaine Tawse, also with many vineyards in Gevrey, began on the 11th. It all depended on how the vines had been tended during the season. All Mark’s red were between 12.6 and 13.2 alcohol, so he certainly didn’t pick too late, and while the rain that came on the 12th may have helped, they had gorgeous freshness and purity across the board.
There are individualities and nuance found throughout the Côte d’Or in 2023. For example, in the south, Chassagne and Puligny had a little more rain than neighbouring Meursault. And overall I found that the Meursaults were that bit richer than usual compared to their Chassagne and Puligny counterparts. And, as anyone who followed
2023 Vintage report
my dispatches from Burgundy will know, it’s a year in which the feted vineyard of Meursault-Perrières has proved particularly successful.
But while Burgundy’s intricacies are particularly on show this vintage, there are a handful of common threads that link the wines together. The reds’ tannins are silky and lush to a level that I haven’t seen before. I didn’t taste the ’85s en primeur, but I wonder if they might have had the same lushness. There is plenty of colour, but not of the dense brooding type seen in so many ’20s. There is brightness and freshness, which may seem slightly counter-intuitive given the higher than usual pHs, but it brings a lovely sense of place and sapidity to the wines. There was no sense of heat or alcohol, nor dilution: the wines simply come across as lovely, seductive Pinots. Some are built to last, while others are more suitable for mid-term ageing. Generally the levels of new oak have been toned down, extraction was kept light and respectful, and whole bunch was used sensitively rather than dogmatically.
The whites, meanwhile, are not a million miles away stylistically from the ’22s, being equally savoury and mouthwatering, although perhaps a little less saline at the same time. There is a lot of concentration and plenty of drive and energy. The balance between tension and flavour intensity is very promising, with some ’23s undoubtedly better than their ’22 versions, and others are not far behind at all.
We recognise how exceptionally lucky we are to work with so many quality-driven growers and try and remain cautious about talking up a vintage beyond its overall merit. But I tasted so many serious wines in the sixty or so cellars that I visited that it would be churlish to not lavish praise upon them.
With the 2024 harvest being something of a disaster, particularly in parts of the Côte de Nuits, where yields of 5 hectolitres per hectare were not uncommon, albeit with early reports on quality encouraging, prices of’ 23s have remained stable rather than fallen. Where we have been able to, we have nudged various wines down slightly. Although there was the potential for huge yields from unscrupulous producers, on the whole, yields are only very slightly up: top domaines, such as the ones in our release, kept them on a tight rein, and many will be hanging onto a little extra wine at the estate to compensate for the lack of ’24s when that vintage is released in twelve months’ time.
Those of you just starting out on your collecting journey will love this vintage. The reds are gorgeous and won’t require twenty years’ patience to pull the cork, whilst the whites are expressive and intense with a clear sense of purpose and energy.
Nor should those of you with bulging cellars miss out on yet another lovely vintage in what is proving to be a real golden period of quality for Burgundy. Future comparative tastings of 2019, 2020, 2022 and 2023 held over the next two decades will prove fascinating and you should ensure you have a good smattering of these 2023s to be able to make those comparisons. I have little doubt that they will more than hold their own, and in many cases, come out on top.
Jason Haynes Founding Director and Burgundy Buyer
Côte de Beaune
Chassagne-Montrachet
Puligny-Montrachet
Meursault
Saint-Romain
Auxey-Duresses
Volnay
Pommard
Pernand-Vergelesses
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Domaine
Coffinet-Duvernay
This is an estate with incredible Chassagne pedigree. It was formed in 1989 when Philippe Duvernay married Laura Coffinet. Laura is the daughter of Fernand Coffinet and Cécile, Paul Pillot’s sister. Meanwhile Laura’s sister, Fabienne, went on to marry Michel Morey, forming Domaine Morey-Coffinet. The estate has a stunning array of vineyards in Chassagne-Montrachet, and today it’s their son, Bastien at the helm. He’s taking this seven-hectare estate to new heights in his own quiet, unassuming way.
In 2023 he started his harvest on 2nd September. The pHs were between 3.25 and 3.35 and the alcohols between 13 and 13.8. I found his ’23s to be seriously good, even better than his ’22s, which were already excellent. This is a domaine which is really flying and Bastien seems to be heading for stardom.
2023
Chassagne-Montrachet
£246 IB - 6x75cl
One of the best non lieu-dit village whites in this offer. Three parcels go into this blend, which is just my sort of Burgundy. Lithe and vibrant, yet with a mouthwatering substance and poise. A truly excellent example.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
‘Les Blanchots Dessous’
£288 IB - 6x75cl
£300 IB - 3x150cl
This is, of course, a step up coming from a vineyard that sits just below the Grands Crus, but it is more backward and less en place at the moment than the straight Chassagne. This gem of a wine comes from two separate parcels that make up a hectare, with vines between 50 and 80 years of age. Its reserve belies a wine full of minerality and intensity and its concentration is all locked up in its length of flavour and salinity.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’
£168 IB - 3x75cl
This is arguably more mineral and taut than the ’22 version with inviting sapidity and great harmony. The spice and minerality provide a lovely backdrop to the nicely controlled fruit flavours.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Clos Saint-Jean’
£168 IB - 3x75cl
This is quite a small plot for Bastien, producing only four or five barrels in total. Quite accessible initially, it then tightens towards the finish as the structure kicks in. Good shoulders and plenty of stuffing.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Fairendes’
£372 IB - 6x75cl
What a cracker. Half of the vineyard is 80 years old, the other half was replanted 20 years ago. This is simply lovely; fine featured and complex with a refined intensity and lovely saline chalkiness throughout.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Morgeot Les Grands Clos’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
This plot sits just below the much heralded Tête du Clos and has a little more clay in its soil, which gives it greater body and power. Still young, but expressive and generous.
This has all the minerality and stoniness one looks for in top Caillerets, but also lots of weight, extract and substance, all of which combines to leave a mouth-wateringly sapid finish of length and complexity.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Blanchots Dessus’
£285 IB - 3x75cl
£600 IB - 3x150cl
This is the small plot of 1er Cru which lies next to Montrachet itself. It’s possibly the most backward wine in the line up on the day I taste. Despite there being more limestone in the soil and the wine having a lovely compact minerality to it, it also has a broad framework which is more in keeping with a Grand Cru. This is very much the proverbial coiled spring waiting to unleash itself on the world. Great potential.
Drink from 2030
Domaine
Coffinet-Duvernay
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Dents de Chien’
£690 IB - 3x150cl
This small but perfectly formed vineyard borders one of the other sides of Montrachet. It is so fine and mineral and understated yet so composed and complex. A beautiful wine.
Drink from 2032
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
£990 IB - 3x75cl
Still in nappies, this needs time and patience. Not overly hefty, but just deceptively powerful and introverted at the moment. Very limited (just over 2 barrels for the whole world).
Drink from 2034
Reds
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Voillenots’ Rouge
£132 IB - 6x75cl
The soil here is an ideal mix of clay and limestone and the wine is both bright and crunchy and intense and earthy, giving a sense of a lot of wine for the money. Indeed, like almost all the
other red Chassagnes in this offer!
Drink from 2027
Domaine
Bruno Colin
Bruno Colin joined his parents at the family domaine of Colin-Deleger back in 1993. Ten years later the domaine was split into three, with Bruno taking one third, his brother Philippe taking another, and the final third remaining with his father. Bruno has lots of small parcels, mainly in Chassagne-Montrachet and his nine hectares are split between twenty different appellations.
Bruno isn’t the earliest picker in the village, and his wines tend towards the richer end of the spectrum, but the quality of his parcels very much allows the terroir to speak. He prefers the slightly larger barrels of 350 litres (as opposed to those of 228 litres) which allow for a textural influence by the wood without the flavour impact. The wines spend 12 months in barrel, and a further 4 to 5 months in vat before bottling.
This was perhaps the best tasting I have had chez Bruno since we began working with him following our purchase of Domaine Direct back in 2020. Bruno’s wines tend to have quite broad shoulders and he is comfortable using more new oak than some of our other growers. However, perhaps worried about over egging the custard in what might have easily developed into a rich, powerful vintage given the warmth in the fortnight leading up to the harvest, Bruno picked a little earlier (September 3rd) and used a little less new oak than usual.
The results are excellent, with the wines really differentiating themselves from one another and showing more vitality than usual. To celebrate, we asked for all the premiers crus whites to be bottled in either magnums or jeroboams to make them extra special. Quantities are limited but quality is high.
2023 Bourgogne Chardonnay
£120 IB - 6x75cl
There is a nice level of dry extract here which makes it very salivating and moreish. A fine start.
Drink from 2026
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
£300 IB - 6x75cl
Nine different parcels find their way into this cuvée which sees about 15% new oak. It’s tight and compact and feels well knit.
Again nice extract and good energy..
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Chaumées’
£498 IB - 3x150cl
£408 IB - 1x300cl
Not dissimilar to the village wine profile wise but with more concentration and complexity. Nice layers and really quite lithe and agile.
The nose is all stone, but the palate is much more fruit driven which should make a very complete wine when it all comes together. Promising.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Vergers’
£510 IB - 3x150cl
£420 IB - 1x300cl
Vergers is sandwiched between Chaumées and Chenevottes but it’s probably slightly closer in style to the latter, showing a fair level of fruit intensity and richness. But again, the acidity works well and really supports the strong weight of fruit.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’
£510 IB - 3x150cl
£420 IB - 1x300cl
Traditionally Maltroie is quite fruit driven and this example follows that typicity to the tee, but like the Vergers the richness of fruit is well balanced with the natural tension and extract in the wine, and there are nice layers of spice and stone fruits all adding nuance and interest.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Boudriotte’
£510 IB - 3x150cl
£420 IB - 1x300cl
Switching geographically all the way to the other side of the village to find Boudriotte, which lies pretty much directly behind the cuverie. This is very good. Nice stony minerality mingles with a touch of oak spice and is ignited by a crackle of tension running through its core.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’
£510 IB - 3x150cl
£420 IB - 1x300cl
More overt richness here but still not heavy or too much. The oak remains discreet and well-integrated and there is plenty going on.
Drink from 2028
Domaine Bruno Colin
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘En Remilly’
£690 IB - 3x150cl
£570 IB - 1x300cl
This minscule plot that sits within a tiny vineyard just above Montrachet has produced a nervy, compact wine that is still very difficult to read. Wonderfully intense with real presence and natural weight.
While En Remilly sits above Montrachet this vineyard sits just to its left and is probably leaner with a more mineral constitution. Great stuff.
Drink from 2030
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Truffière’
£870 IB - 3x150cl
£720 IB - 1x300cl
A true gear change into Puligny here with this much finer featured wine. The holding is made up for two plots averaging about 40 years of age. Lovely energy and underlying stoniness.
Drink from 2031
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Demoiselles’
£435 IB - 1x150cl
Potentially a very lovely wine, showing lots of Puligny character, a lovely linear edge and energy, and excellent drive from start to finish.
Drink from 2032
Reds
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes Rouge
£210 IB - 6x75cl
It’s a good vintage for red Chassagne as, like this example, the wines are bright and crunchy and full of fresh, juicy fruit.
Drink from 2027
2023 Santenay 1er Cru ‘Les Gravières’ Rouge
£264 IB - 6x75cl
One of Santenay’s best vineyards, if not the best, this has an elegance and finesse not always found in this part of the Côte de Beaune. Earthy red fruits with ripe, almost lush tannins.
Lovely stuff.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Philippe Colin
Philippe Colin and his brother, Bruno, both joined the family domaine (Domaine Colin-Déléger) in 1988 and 1993 respectively. Ten years later, when their parents were looking at retirement, they decided the time was right to go their separate ways and launch their own domaines, Philippe building his estate to around 15 hectares, and primarily focusing on ChassagneMontrachet.
Alongside his Burgundian venture, he launched and then evolved a new operation in South Africa, where he had been spending more and more time. Now, his time is split between the two countries, a change that became easier to facilitate when he passed down two-thirds of his vineyards to his son, Simon (see Domaine Simon Colin). This left him with 5 hectares, but 5 hectares of some very nice premiers Crus.
Philippe was away in south Africa when I dropped by, but his new assistant took me through his 2023s which include some rare and fantastic crus.
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Cras’
£300 IB - 3x75cl
This is a new wine for the domaine, which came via Philippe’s wife. It’s a small and consequently, lesser-known premier cru towards the borders with Volnay. There is some nice dry extract here which gives plenty of energy and length and no little substance. A promising début.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Chaumées Clos Saint-Abdon’
£390 IB - 6x75cl
Chaumées is up in the north western part of Chassagne, not too far from St Aubin where the wines tend to be a little finer and sometimes more delicate or floral. Here the minerality comes through rather nicely and there is good resulting vitality on the finish.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Chenevottes’
£390 IB - 6x75cl
Perhaps just a little more richness and sunniness to this wine, and there is good concentration on the back palate. It finishes well suggesting there is plenty more to come.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘En Remilly’
£450 IB - 6x75cl
This is a big jump up but given its location above the Grands Crus so it should be. It has an effortless concentration, suggesting lots of small berries which would account for the matière of the juice.
Drink from 2029
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Demoiselles’
£330 IB - 3x75cl
Very limited
2023 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
£1248 IB - 3x75cl
Very limited
Domaine
Simon Colin
Simon inherited a big chunk of his father’s vineyards (nine hectares) in 2021, but with the dreadful frost that hit at the beginning of April, he was on the back foot before he’d even started. Fortunately, in the years that have followed, he’s been able to find some sort of normality. He is happy working the white wines slightly reductively and using whole bunches in the reds should the cuvées allow.
Knowing that he would be inheriting a significant amount of vines in 2021, Simon had already started bottling wines under his own name three years earlier, with some contracts for fruit that he had put in place and also with some fruit from some of his father’s vineyards.
But in terms of sheer scale, the jump over the last few years is dramatic. Simon already seems very settled in his new home and is already building a new tasting room and office there. He has always had a certain confidence beyond his years, but this year he seemed more relaxed and comfortable than ever in his new set up.
That’s maybe because he knows that his ’23s are excellent. I found them to be one of the ranges that were a step up on their ’22 counterparts, which is exciting. There is just a little more tension, despite the potentially richer fruit, and greater harmony overall. He began picking on 2nd September and maintained pHs at between 3.25 and 3.30 with alcohol levels between 12.5 and 13, numbers which confirm that extra sense of tension.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Chardonnay
£114 IB - 6x75cl
This is a fantastic start to the range and very indicative of the sort of style of wine that Simon makes. Coming from three separate parcels close to the cuverie in Chassagne, there is a good level of dry extract, tension and matière.
Drink from 2026
2023 Maranges ‘Vignes Blanches’
£144 IB - 6x75cl
Maranges lies southwest of Chassagne, just beyond Santenay and is best known for its good value reds. It can be quite cold there in the spring as the frost which wiped out the ’24 vintage will testify. But, where the soil is more limestone based than clay, the cooler microclimate can be a very positive thing if one has planted Chardonnay. This is such an example and is really lively and refreshing, with elements of citrus and spice. Good value, too.
Drink from 2026
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
£300 IB - 6x75cl
This is an assemblage of eight different parcels dotted all over the village, some close to Puligny, some more adjacent to Santenay, and some right in the middle. There is a little bit of reduction on the nose which is lovely, and a certain restraint through the palate providing substance but not heaviness.
This is an example bursting with life.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Vergers’
£432 IB - 6x75cl
We now move on to the northern part of the village with two crus that overlook St Aubin. This probably has a touch more clay than the Chaumées, and is consequently a little richer, although it’s all relevant and in most cellars this would be considered taut and vivacious! A real crowd pleaser.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Chaumées’
£432 IB - 6x75cl
Chaumées sits just above Vergers and a nice smattering of reduction leads into a lithe, harmonious palate of stone and flowers. A touch more reserved and delicate but lots to love here.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’
£600 IB - 6x75cl
This comes from a parcel that Simon farms but doesn’t own. Stylistically, although it’s Puligny, it’s almost richer than the two Chassagnes above, with a fruit driven core of more overt fat. It needs a little time as there is a lot of wine here.
Drink from 2029
Reds
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge
£180 IB - 6x75cl
Yet another great value wine as the world is yet to wake up to the quality of reds coming out of this village. A third whole bunch adds a very appealing florality to the traditional earthy flavours of Chassagne. Medium weight and lovely crunch.
Drink from 2027
Domaine
Simon Colin
2023 Maranges 1er Cru ‘La Fussière’
Rouge
£189 IB - 6x75cl
We’re back to Maranges now, but this time with some Pinot from the appellation’s best Cru. Fussière is a vast, towering vineyard that stretches far into the sky. Simon’s parcel sits in the top third of the vineyard which gives it a lithe, mineral grip to work alongside the rose and violets of the 45% whole bunch.
A very nice example of this vineyard.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Morgeot Les Brussonnes’ Rouge
£300 IB - 6x75cl
Fifty-year-old vines sitting in the higher part of the vineyard next to the highly regarded La Cardeuse. The soil is a real mix of red clay infused with some limestone which produces a very complete and interesting style of Chassagne with lots going on. 100% whole bunch then adds another dimension. Wellmade and stylish.
Drink from 2028
Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
Domaine Simon Colin
Domaine Bruno Colin
Alex Moreau Whites
Alex and Martine Moreau, who run this fabulous estate, have been friends of the company pretty much since day one, having been kind enough to grant us an allocation back in 2007. Since then, they have become more than just suppliers and, at the risk of being patronising, it’s been wonderful watching their domaine become one of the most revered in Burgundy.
The Domaine dates all the way back to 1809, when a certain Auguste Moreau, Alex’s great, great grandfather, bought and farmed some vineyards in the village. Several generations passed until Marcel Moreau really began to crank things up and expanded the domaine quite significantly either side of the Second World War. If only vineyards were the same price today! His son and Alex’s father, Bernard, then took over in the 1960s and continued to evolve the domaine until passing the pipette on to Alex at the beginning of the new Millennium.
From the 2021 vintage all the wines are now labeled Alex Moreau, having previously been under the header of Bernard. It heralds a new chapter in the history of the estate. For the moment, Alex farms 5 hectares; three years ago he had 15, but he also lost a few contracted hectares when the contract came to an end. It will be great if over the next few years Alex can build back his holdings so there will be plenty more of his excellent wines to satiate relentless global demand.
Aside from his Grandes Ruchottes which he picked quickly on the 31st August, Alex began his harvest of the 2023s in earnest on the 2nd September. His pHs were between 3.25 and 3.30 and all of the wines had alcohol levels of between 12.5 and 13.3 which he was very happy with. One thing he did mention was that the fermentation
took quite a long time, though this is not a bad thing. To a certain degree, a bit like slow cooking food at low temperatures, a drawn out fermentation can enhance flavours and complexity.
There are some truly lovely wines in this range, and not just those wines that one might normally expect to excite! Also, take a moment to consider his red Chassagnes: they are worth the reflection.
2023 Bourgogne Blanc
£276 IB - 12x75cl
£162 IB - 3x150cl
This is the first year that Alex has been impacted by the ending of rental contracts on a couple of his vineyards and, consequently, there is a lot less of this Bourgogne Blanc than there would normally be. That’s quite problematic: even with the big volumes we have had historically, we always sell out pretty much instantly. This consistently over delivers and it does again here. There is a nice level of extract and plenty of fruit intensity. Great purity and tension as well as a wellnourished richness.
Drink from 2026
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
£690 IB - 12x75cl
£360 IB - 3x150cl
This is the other cuvée that is quite heavily impacted in terms of volume and, again it is of probably our best-selling white Burgundy of all. This year Alex has decided to separate out the fruit from a small parcel called Les Chaumes and bottle it separately. It’s so small it takes nothing away from the main blend, but on its own it offers just that little extra dimension of complexity.
Drink from 2027
2023 Puligny-Montrachet
£378 IB - 6x75cl
This is surprisingly backward and really quite weighty, given its appellation. A racy Puligny with a good dose of Chassagne substance.
Drink from 2028
Alex Moreau
2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Sur Gamay’
£276 IB - 6x75cl
This is seriously lovely. Very precise, clean and expressive with great control. Lots of flavour and intensity and really harmonious.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meusault ‘Les Vireuils’
£390 IB - 6x75cl
It says Meursault on the label but it is one of the liveliest, most mineral Meursaults I tasted in ’23. From vines on the northern extremes of Meursault opposite Auxey-Duresses, this has great stony tension and is really impressive.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’
£600 IB - 6x75cl
£630 IB - 3x150cl
As it so often does, this has come out of its shell quite early. Lots of flavour and personality and a real sense of being well-nourished, but there is also lovely energy and drive and complete balance.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Chenevottes’
£600 IB - 6x75cl
Typically pretty and dainty aromatically, though there is a little more richness than usual on the palate. However, another few months in steel over the winter will probably bring the palate into line with the nose.
Delightful wine, packed with savoury flavours and dry extract alongside the stony minerality that is its signature character. Already really delicious and still lots more to come.
Drink from 2030
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Grandes Ruchottes’
£498 IB - 3x75cl
This is one of Chassagne’s finest vineyards, so although Alex had to replant his parcel 6 years ago, it still produces a very serious wine. Quite backward, especially compared to the Caillerets, but plenty of structure, depth and interest. Very limited as always.
Drink from 2031
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
£1530 IB - 3x75cl
Alex has made 2 barrels of this, of which one is new. Again, this is another example of quite an elegant Bâtard. Is the appellation reinventing itself as a sensitive soul and throwing off its brutish reputation, at least in youth? Either way, I like this a lot.
Drink from 2032
Reds
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge
£TBC
Given their quality and price point, Alex’s reds are some of the neglected bargains of this entire offer. There is 50% whole bunch in this village wine. Plenty of crunchy fruit on the attack, nice grippy tannins that integrate well through the mid palate and good length of flavour, all for not much money!
Drink from 2028
Alex Moreau
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘La Cardeuse’ Rouge Monopole
£450 IB - 6x75cl
The whole bunch is taken up to 70% here which gives a little extra florality to the wine. Fresh and lively with plenty of flesh and weight and a lovely lush texture.
Drink from 2029
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Santenots’
£TBC
Lying to the south of the village on the frontiers of Meursault, this has a little more structure than some Volnays, but also some lovely bright Pinot fruit with some earth and spice. The tannins are present but fine and integrated.
Drink from 2029
Domaine
Thomas Morey
Having worked alongside his father, Bernard, for 12 years, Thomas Morey was ready to go it alone and, quite remarkably, become the tenth generation of vignerons in his family. In 2006, he set up his eponymous domaine with his wife Sylvie, who had also inherited some vines from her family. Thomas and his brother, Vincent, divided up the family vineyards between themselves, sharing the big plots like Embrazées and distributing the smaller ones as fairly as possible with one another.
Since then, the domaine has expanded further and now totals 13 hectares, with numerous different plots (57 in all!) across the Côte de Beaune, producing fifteen different whites and seven different reds. Thomas has been farming organically for some time and gained his official certification a couple of years ago. He has moved to a second winter of ageing in steel for his best cuvées to enhance the already tense and precise character of his white wines. New oak is kept to around 20% through the range and there are some wonderful plots within his portfolio, many of which have very old vines, further enhancing the overt minerality of the wines. If you like lean and stony Chardonnays, these wines will be just up your street.
Thomas began picking on 1st September. His pHs were actually slightly lower in 2023 than they were in ’22, coming in between 3.25 and 3.30 for the whites and a little higher for the reds. Alcohol levels were very classical with all wines between 12.5 and 13 degrees. His handful of red wines were deliciously crunchy and lush with lovely bright fruit flavours, whilst his whites were very fresh and vibrant as they tend to be. Thomas’s wines remain great value for the high level of quality and typicity across the whole range.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Chardonnay
£114 IB - 6x75cl
From 7 different parcels across Chassagne, this is aged in mainly older barriques and larger vessels in order to minimise the flavour impact of the oak and thus accentuate the vibrancy of the juice. That is very much how this wine presents itself.
Drink from 2026
2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Les Combes’
£228 IB - 6x75cl
Just a hint of gun flint reduction on this, which comes from a parcel of 60-year-old vines on the edge of Chassagne. This is a little backward, compact and fresh with good tension.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
£246 IB - 6x75cl
This is a blend of nine different parcels from mainly the north side of the village towards Puligny. All the parcels are vinified separately, and the blend is racy and stony with Puligny-esque refinement. Lively structure and excellent definition from start to finish.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Clos Saint-Jean’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
£315 IB - 3x150cl
Planted in the part of the vineyard with much more limestone, this has lovely tension and is really mouthwatering. It still needs a little time for the two parcels of young and old vines to marry together, but it has excellent potential.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Chenevottes’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
£315 IB - 3x150cl
If you like your Chassagne stony and mineral, then this is the one for you. From poor soil with excellent drainage, this is slightly reductive and packed with dry extract, stone and minerals. Really lovely wine.
Drink from 2029
2023
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’
£318 IB - 6x75cl
£333 IB - 3x150cl
Quite atypical for a Morgeot and all the better for it! Coming from three different sectors with different lieu dits, with the majority made up of Les Fairendes, this is really quite citrussy and lively . Very good indeed.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Baudines’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
£315 IB - 3x150cl
A close geographical neighbour of the Embrazées, yet just a little further up on the slope on slightly stonier soil. Although it has some stuffing, its character is more chiselled with plenty of stone and extract. Lovely sapidity.
Drink from 2030
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Embrazées’
£318 IB - 6x75cl
£333 IB - 3x150cl
Thomas has just over half a hectare of this vineyard having split the inheritance with brother Vincent, although Vincent ended up with significantly more as his wife also inherited some from her parents. This presents a really nice mix of richness and vivacity, its mouthwatering stoniness enriched by its natural power.
Drink from 2030
Domaine Thomas Morey
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Vide-Bourse’
£228 IB - 3x75cl
£480 IB - 3x150cl
Just below the Bâtard, this is a tiny plot for Thomas but it makes some serious juice! The vines are 80 years old, and it has real presence and layers. Great tension and purity, it crackles with energy. If you’re a terroir sceptic, this will convert you!
Drink from 2031
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Truffière’
£228 IB - 3x75cl
£480 IB - 3x150cl
This is only a small vineyard in its entirety, totalling just 2.5 hectares, but it’s capable of producing some serious wines. This example has hints of grand cru purity about it and real stature. All whipped into a frenzy by an effervescent tension.
Drink from 2031
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
£900 IB - 3x75cl
Like so many Bâtard seem to be in 2023, this is not a bruiser of a wine but rather one of restraint. Tight and compact, it has weight, but an athletic muscularity that elongates the complexity. Lots of potential.
Drink from 2032
2023 Santenay Vieilles Vignes Rouge
£159 IB - 6x75cl
What a cracking start to the reds. Cool fruit flavours and lovely freshness throughout which is enhanced by very silky tannins that are well coated in bright fruit.
Drink from 2027
2023 Santenay 1er Cru ‘Grand Clos Rousseau’ Rouge
£186 IB - 6x75cl
£204 IB - 3x150cl
As we move up into 1er Cru level we see a little less earthiness and more elegance and refinement. This is really very good and offers great value.
Clos St Jean is one of those rare vineyards which can produce excellent wines in both colours, as different parts of the vineyard are more suited to one colour than the other. Thomas’s vines are further up the slope where the clay is a little deeper and brings greater body and richesse to the Pinots. No hard edges here but lovely grip and balance which really tantalises the tastebuds.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Jean-Marc Pillot
Jean-Marc joined his father, Jean, at the estate in 1985. At that point it consisted of about five hectares and before Jean, Alphonse, Jean-Marc’s grandfather, had run things. When Jean-Marc became involved, the fruit of the domaine was being sold off to négociants, but gradually, having assumed autonomy of the domaine in 1991, he began to bottle wines under his own name.
And then, in 1996, he established his own négociant business so he could increase his own production by buying fruit from well-trusted sources. At the same time, he was slowly building up land holdings, so that now he farms about twelve hectares, plus a further five under the négoce label.
To house all this wine, and with an intelligent son, Antonin, joining him just before Covid struck, he built a smart new cuverie close to his old one. It should allow Antonin to continue the progression of the domaine in the coming years. Bucking the trend, about half the domaine is planted with Pinot Noir, a good proportion of which is old vines, although nothing gets close to the 110-year-old vines of their little jewel called Clos St-Marc, whose wines are as rare as they are great. I find these wines more and more compelling each year and Antonin certainly has an air about him that fills one with confidence for the future.
Antonin and his family began harvesting on the 1st September with the whites, and later finished with the reds. They didn’t do a green harvest but did operate a very strict tri at the cuverie, ending with sensible yields in a potentially bountiful vintage. Antonin did mention that
he had bought a new vertical press which he used for the first time for the ’24 vintage, and he seemed genuinely excited by the results, as did his father, Jean-Marc.
Antonin also mentioned that he is using bigger oak barrels than was once the case, thus still allowing for micro-oxygenation but down playing the flavour impact of the wood.
Whites
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
£255 IB - 6x75cl
6 Different parcels go into this wine, some of which he owns, some he just farms. Pure, energetic and salivating, this is just what you want for a village Chassagne.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Noyer Bret’
£258 IB - 6x75cl
This is a textbook Puligny from a half hectare plot that lies just below Les Enseignères to the south of the village. Well balanced, savoury with a lovely clarity of fruit.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Macherelles’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
This is very much on the lightish, citrussy spectrum of Chassagne, showing an appealing and very refreshing streak of acidity around which it wraps its fruit.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Champs Gains’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
A real beauty, showing, once again, quite savoury flavours and real purity and agility. More alive than one or two others and really quite lovely.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Jean-Marc Pillot
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Baudines’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
This is bought in fruit rather than domaine fruit, but it’s still really good. A touch richer than usual perhaps but still bright and tense as one would expect from a Baudines.
Always a favourite of the range and no reason to change that logic in ’23. Lots of limestone and mineral influences and such lovely refined energy.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Vergers Clos Saint Marc’
£660 IB - 6x75cl
Tiny volumes for this little piece of heaven within the Vergers vineyard. This has such substance yet also great control and purity which runs right through the palate. Very limited.
Drink from 2029 Reds
2023 Santenay ‘Les Champs Claude’ Rouge
£138 IB - 6x75cl
The vines here are quite old and the wine has an easy concentration that is awoken by a linear energy which drives it forward with purpose.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Macherelles’ Rouge
£210 IB - 6x75cl
Antonin pointed out that this site works well in a warm vintage, and, given my tasting note, he is not wrong. Lovely nose with great intensity and grip which is present but discreet.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Clos Saint-Jean’ Rouge
£330 IB - 6x75cl
Very old vines here and again, the colour and concentration clearly came easily as the wine feels very elegant and far from forced.
Drink from 2028
Olivier Leflaive
The Leflaive dynasty can be traced back 300 years, although the origins of the two current domaines date back only as far as 1905, when Joseph Leflaive established Domaine Leflaive with a mere 2 hectares. Expansion was thereafter relentless, as the domaine quickly became the most significant holder of the top vineyards of the village. Two generations later, in 1984, Olivier Leflaive, Joseph’s grandson, set up his own independent operation with his brother, Patrick, which he ran alongside the original Domaine Leflaive in conjunction with his cousin, Anne Claude, until they went their separate ways in 1994.
Inevitably, the vineyards were split and today Domaine Leflaive consists of 25 hectares, whilst Domaine Olivier Leflaive has 17 hectares to its name, as well as many more under contract, a vast number of which are farmed and harvested by themselves. For all bar the first three years, when Jean-Marc Boillot was winemaker, the wines at Olivier Leflaive have been under the care of the talented and very charming Franck Grux. In recent vintages he has taken the wines to a new level of quality and subsequent recognition. As such I suspect his decision to finally hang up his pipette in December after 35 years at the helm can’t have been an easy one. At recent Burgfest tastings where we blind taste 250 premiers and grand crus from the vintage made 4 years previously (this spring we tasted the 2020s), the Olivier Leflaive wines continually won so many of the individual flights that one couldn’t help but be mightily impressed with Franck’s offerings. He will inevitably be sorely missed.
But, as one generation steps down so another has the chance to blossom, and with the arrival of the young, but extremely assured Solène Panigai, the new era at Olivier Leflaive begins with a palpable sense of anticipation and excitement.
Solène didn’t have an easy baptism starting out with 2023 rather than 2022, but her success in this vintage clearly marks her out as a serious talent. She began picking the whites on the 1st September and the reds on the 6th. Picking stopped each day around 1pm to stop both the pickers and the grapes from getting too hot. Despite the intense heat in the first week of September, the wines are nicely restrained in terms of alcohol with most between 12.6 and 13.5. It’s likely that the size of the crop stopped the juice from becoming overly concentrated, much as it did in 2018, although the alcohol is far more present in the ’18 reds than it is in these ‘23s.
In fact on paper, the wines are not dissimilar to the 22s, with pHs fairly in line. In the glass the whites are perhaps very slightly less compact, but they are also very harmonious so they may simply just have a very extended drinking window. The reds are a little more fruit driven than the 22s, although a second winter en masse in the cellars may well neutralize that difference. This is also true for the whites, as another 6-9 months in steel will add an extra level of tension and drive to the wines. Flavours are nicely savoury and despite the heat, the fruit remains mineral in both colours and the Pinots very much on the red rather than the black fruit spectrum. Solène is looking to go even lower on the amount of new oak she uses, not that percentages were in any way excessive under her predecessor, but she is striving for more purity, more finesse and more nuance, all elements we love dearly.
This is a really smart range of wines that’s worth investing in and it’s our gut feeling that Solene’s journey over the next few years will be one you will want to share with her.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Oncle Vincent’
£258 IB - 12x75cl
This is made up of fruit from 10 different parcels across much of Puligny, creating a wine that very much expresses the personality of the appellation. It’s a tip in itself that this cuvée is in homage to Olivier’s uncle, someone who was very important to Olivier, as making a wine in his name which the whole family can be proud of, will ensure it has to be something special. It is caressed with a smattering of new oak (around 10%) and hence a pure vibrancy and energy that marks it out as a mini Puligny. Great value wine.
Drink from 2025
2023 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘Sous Fretille’
£252 IB - 6x75cl
£270 IB - 3x150cl
Over the last few years this vineyard has really established itself as a source of mini Corton-Charlemagne, lying just to the north of the expansive Grand Cru. It has all the stony, vibrant, energy of a Corton-Charlemagne but at a fraction of the cost. This version is a fine example of the appellation, showing excellent minerality and tension with a crystalline sense of place. Lots of wine for the money.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault ‘Les Meix Chavaux’
£324 IB - 6x75cl
£384 IB - 3x150cl
This excellent parcel lies to the north of the appellation, sandwiched between Les Chevalières and Les Luchets. The vines are now in their forties and this has a lovely bite and impressive level of dry extract, providing a savoury, nicely saline feel to the wine. Nuanced and complex, this is a superior village wine.
Drink from 2028
Olivier Leflaive
2023 Puligny-Montrachet
£330 IB - 6x75cl
£348 IB - 3x150cl
This comes from a mix of domaine and contracted fruit, on which much of the vineyard work is done by the Leflaive team. It’s a very definitive example of the vintage, showing both plenty of fruit intensity and a mouthwatering stoniness. Lively and energetic and nicely Puligny.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Sous le Dos d’Ane’
£540 IB - 6x75cl
£600 IB - 3x150cl
This vineyard lies in the southern part of the appellation, some way up the slope above the various incarnations of Les Perrières and below the hill of Blagny. The soil here is a little poorer, with more chalk and stone than one finds further down the slope in Les Charmes. Oak is again subtly handled and very discreet and the stoniness of the terroir really comes through. It has a very appealing angularity, that ignites the palate in a mouthwatering way.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Abbaye de Morgeot’
£504 IB - 6x75cl
Morgeot is such a vast vineyard, it’s hard to define it with complete conviction. There is such an array of soil types and expositions, so much so that there are a plethora of wellestablished lieu dits within the Cru which are as well-known as Morgeot itself. This is one such lieu dit, which, as the name suggests, features the vines around the old abbey. The soil here has some stones, but a good proportion of clay, which gives a certain level of weight to the wine. However, Solène has picked nice and early and accentuated the vibrancy of the wine, with minimal new oak helping to keep the wine light on its feet.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Clos Saint-Marc’
£504 IB - 6x75cl
£564 IB - 3x150cl
This small Clos is less than 2 hectares and is a sub section of Les Vergers in the north part of the appellation, towards Puligny and St-Aubin. Its stony character brings a mouthwatering tautness to the palate which in turn helps create a delightfully lifted harmony to the wine, which is long and sapid.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Folatières’
£872 IB - 6x75cl
£945 IB - 3x150cl
Folatières is the biggest of all the premiers crus in Puligny and therefore perhaps we should not be surprised that it produces such definitive examples of Puligny. The soil is lightish with limited subsoil and lots of eroded limestone, hence why it is so full of pebbles and scree. Yet, despite this tense minerality running through the wine, there is weight and volume, too, that comes from the well exposed site that enjoys plenty of sunshine. The combination is perfect and this is a truly delightful wine with bags of potential.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Pucelles’ SOLD OUT
Pucelles is a much smaller vineyard, but it is brilliantly located being just along from the Grands Crus of Bienvenue and Bâtard. When tasting this wine we move into the ‘emotional territory’ where it becomes more about an overall feeling or a sensation rather than the dissection of individual elements. The poise of the wine is great; it’s so effortless and lifted. Energy and nuance ooze from every pore. Very long and so much more to come.
Drink from 2029
Olivier Leflaive
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
SOLD OUT
We actually tasted the Bâtard after the Chevalier as it’s bigger but, in all honesty, it’s much less massive than so many examples and all the better for being so. It has real harmony and balance and already feels quite ‘en place’. The grand cru element is expressed by its completeness and presence in the mouth and the fact the finish goes on and on. A refined Bâtard that will just get better and better.
Drink from 2030
2023 Montrachet Grand Cru
SOLD OUT
Production of this is tiny which is a great shame as it’s ethereally brilliant, if a wine can be that. Great purity throughout, and a seductive delicacy that subtly draws you in. This is everything a Montrachet should be.
Drink from 2030
Reds
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Epenots’
£360 IB - 6x75cl
This is quite a different animal to the village version, being much more structured and backward. There is more underlying tannin, but it is integrated and ripe and merely supports the density of fruit, adding a little bite and focus.
A very classical Pommard with an appealing modern touch thanks to the influence of climate change.
Drink from 2029
2023
Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Angles’
£288 IB - 6x75cl
The vines here are a mix of ages, the younger vines bringing vigour to the palate, whilst the older ones bring depth and nuance. Quite sunny and expressive, all within the savoury, elegant character of Volnay.
Drink from 2028
Domaine Thomas Morey
Moreau
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
Domaine Pernot Belicard
Domaine Pernot Belicard, situated in the heart of Puligny-Montrachet, was only founded in 2009: that makes its history rather shorter than many of the illustrious names that surround it. But in that short time, and particularly in recent years, it’s become a must-see estate in this revered commune.
The estate was started by Philippe Pernot, son of Paul, a considerable vineyard owner in the village. However, it’s his wife’s vineyards that he farms, and from which he makes the Domaine Pernot Belicard wines. His wife’s family – the Belicards – had previously sold off most of their production to negociants, but the quantities bottled by Philippe have slowly been increasing, much to our delight.
Philippe is also slowly gaining access to some of his family’s vineyards, managing and farming them himself, but these are bottled under a negociant label for the time being (with black labels and white writing, rather than the inverse for the ‘domaine’ wines). In reality there is no difference between the two, with Philippe managing every stage of both, from vine to bottle.
In the short period of time that it has existed, the progression at this estate has been evident, both in the approach and the confidence with which Philippe has gone about things. Perhaps the most significant change has been the extension to the length of the élevage which has elongated the wines and added higher tension. He also picks earlier than he used to, and it’s clear the wines have more vibrancy than they did in the early days. A new cuverie, with a beautiful tasting room attached, has been completed in recent years, and this has undoubtedly brought even more precision.
The devastating frosts of 2021 have proved to be something of an igniting moment for this domaine. So badly hit were Philippe’s vineyards, that, somewhat crestfallen, he decided to sell off most of the fruit that remained and made literally just a handful of cases. Fast forward to the 2022 vintage and he made his best set of wines to date which also included a number of new top cuvées from fruit from his family’s estate.
And now, again, with the 2023 vintage, he has really excelled himself and undoubtedly matched the quality of his 2022s.
He began picking on 1st September and got everything in between 12.5 and 13.4 degrees with pHs at a lively range of 3.24 to 3.25. The splash of rain that Puligny enjoyed helped keep the wines fresh and vibrant and very classical. He looked after yields well and they stayed some way below the increased permitted levels. New oak remained at very sensible levels, often around 20%, allowing the quality of fruit and the terroir of the sites to talk as eloquently as possible.
Our whole team really loved the wines when they tasted in November and having tasted there the week before I can easily see why. As always prices remain very fair indeed at just below last year, and the wines come highly recommended.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Côte d’Or’
SOLD OUT
This is made entirely from fruit on the village side of the RN74, within the boundaries of Puligny. Lots of freshness and poise through the palate, but it is really quite expressive and bright. This should drink really well over the next four or five years. Drink from 2026
2023 Meursault Vieilles Vignes
SOLD OUT
This comes from two separate parcels, one of 50 years old and the other of 80 years old and the old vine fruit intensity is nicely marked on the nose. The 20% new oak is perfectly absorbed by the good level of matière on the palate and its length and layers show good promise.
Drink from 2027
2023 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Petits Nosroyes’
SOLD OUT
2022 was the first vintage of this cuvée which used to be blended into the generic Puligny, but Philippe rightly felt that it merited its own label. Situated in the heart of Puligny, just below the 1ers Crus of Clos de la Mouchère and Les Perrières, this has excellent aromatic intensity, displaying lots of stone fruit and mineral undertones. Quite compact with good bite, texturally it is also quite generous in the mid-palate before finishing with real energy and drive.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Perrières’
SOLD
OUT
This is very classical and very Puligny in style, showing lots of lean, racy, citrussy stoney fruit and displaying excellent tension and dry extract on the finish. Very long and mouthwatering. Drink from 2029
Domaine Pernot Belicard
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Canet’
SOLD OUT
The vines here have now reached their 20th birthday and are starting to really deliver an interesting level of fruit and substance. As usual, this well exposed plot was one of the first to be harvested. Rich and tastily leesy with a real presence and depth of fruit.
Drink from 2028
2023
Puligny-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Folatières’
(Philippe Pernot)
SOLD OUT
Four different parcels from the Folatières vineyard make their way into this wine. From 65 year old vines that produce lots of tiny berries, its yields were way below the average for the vintage. Lots of matter and dry substance and plenty of sapid, slightly reductive fruit. Excellent.
Like the Folatières this wine was new last year and comes under the different coloured negoce label, although its fruit he bought from his family from vines that he worked on. Old vines again and wonderful purity and drive from start to finish.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’
SOLD OUT
One of the first examples of this vineyard that I tasted that got me thinking that 2023 is a Meursault Perrières vintage. The combination of intense stoniness and the richness of the vintage in Meursault are a delight. Great sense of place and real purity and sapidity from these 50 year old vines. Delicious and long with good complexity.
Drink from 2030
2023 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Philippe Pernot)
SOLD OUT
Philippe has only made one barrel of this wine which has been aged in a one-year-old barrel. Lots of small berries and great concentration. Very savoury and quite reticent with lots to come.
Drink from 2031
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Philippe Pernot)
SOLD OUT
There is also just 1 barrel of this Grand Cru, but it is a new one. However, it doesn’t show as the fruit is so rich and dense. It’s very classically Bâtard in that sense and real hyper concentrated. Will need time relax its shoulders!
Drink from 2031
Etienne Sauzet
Etienne Sauzet established his eponymous estate in the 1920s and quickly became one of the village’s most respected producers. His granddaughter, Jeanine, married Gérard Boudot in the early ’70s, and he assumed winemaking duties at the domaine. Things became a little more complicated in 1991 when the Boillot siblings went their separate ways, and the vineyards were divided up accordingly. Gérard continued to make the wines at the estate, supplementing Domaine fruit with some choice parcels of contracted fruit. In 2006 farming went organic and four years later biodynamic, with certification following in 2013. By this time, Gérard had retired and his daughter, Emilie, and her husband, Benoît Riffault (from the highly regarded Riffault family in Sancerre) were running the operation. They have continued to buy vineyards where possible, including 5 hectares in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, which looks like a shrewd purchase with the climate continuing to evolve as it is. This gives them 15 hectares in total, and there are few domaines out there with such a comprehensive collection of their village’s best vineyards.
The harvest began on the 28th August with pHs between 3.25 and 3.30 and alcohol around the 13 degree mark, which is great. Tasting in Benoît’s lovely tasting room overlooking the 1ers Crus of Puligny, one senses that this is firstly another high-quality vintage, and secondly that it’s also one in which the characters of each cru once again really stood out. Benoît is at the top of his game at the moment.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Chardonnay
£144 IB - 6x75cl
Plenty of fruit and concentration on the attack gives way to a lovely focussed energy and bite on the finish, leaving the palate wanting more. Fruit from Puligny (80%) and Meursault is aged in a mix of older barrels and stainless steel, so that the fruit remains pure and vibrant: it clearly works!
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune ‘Jardin du Calvaire’
£159 IB - 6x75cl
Again no new oak, just big barrels to keep the oak influence on flavours to the bare minimum. Good richness, especially so for fruit from the Hautes-Côtes, brought to life by the natural zest of the region.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Encégnières’
£312 IB - 6x75cl
This is a lovely mix of stone, savoury lees, bright fruit and a touch of spice, all tied up in a compact framework of sapid energy. Very harmonious and really quite breathtaking for a village wine.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet
£312 IB - 6x75cl
This manages a big tick in my notes. Twelve parcels are assembled together to create this wine and despite all the different characteristics they each bring to the cuvée, it’s incredibly harmonious and cultured. It has lovely savoury quality typical of Puligny mixed with a little sucrosité which just adds another level of intensity.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’
£522 IB - 6x75cl
This is very Puligny in style with a charming degree of restraint. Aromas of flowers, stone fruit and citrus are very much the order of the day.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Sous Les Puits’
£600 IB - 6x75cl
There used to be a spring in this part of Puligny, hence the name (under the well). It’s situated high up on the slopes of the village where it is certainly cooler and picking often takes place towards the end of the harvest. This is all about the energy and the stony, green fruits. Lovely harmony.
Drink from 2029
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Hameau de Blagny’
£612 IB - 6x75cl
This sits just below both Sous le Puits and La Garenne and while it has the same stony, floral dimension, it has also just a little more richness, thanks to the very old vines and the small berries that they produce.
Drink from 2029
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Gain’
£612 IB - 6x75cl
This is wonderfully saline and chalky beneath the hint of reduction. It’s very mineral, to a degree that the intensity of fruit is almost hidden, but not quite. This is a really super wine.
Drink from 2030
Etienne Sauzet
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Referts’
£300 IB - 3x75cl
I always thought Les Referts was supposed to be rich and unctuous, the Meursault of Puligny if you will: it does, after all, border, the village. But the last two vintages of this wine have completely changed my expectations. Once again, this has great mineral extract and tension and bite which run through the whole palate. Another big tick from me!
Drink from 2029
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Canet’
£324 IB - 3x75cl
£690 IB - 3x150cl
Another stunner of a wine that has everything. Intensity, precision, stoniness, complex layers and great length. A very complete wine indeed and succulent and delicious.
Drink from 2030
2023 Puligny-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Les Folatières En La Richarde’
£390 IB - 3x75cl
En La Richarde is basically the best bit of Folatières which, given how good Folatières can be normally, is quite a statement. The soil here is very poor and chalky and this is transposed into the glass. This is so coiled and compact, it’s like an iceberg, just showing a fraction of what it has above the surface. There is so much more to come for the patient collector. Very complex.
Drink from 2031
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Combettes’
£780 IB - 6x75cl
£840 IB - 3x150cl
This is a little showier at this stage of its evolution, showing great concentration yet also great harmony. Textured yet lithe with a wonderful sapidity.
Drink from 2031
2023 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
£1470 IB - 3x75cl
And so to the Grands Crus. Interestingly, on the day, this was the one that got my biggest tick. It has such understated precision, spotlighted by its purity of fruit and its delicacy. Far from a huge wine but so controlled, refined and poised. Brilliant.
Drink from 2032
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
£1470 IB - 3x75cl
£3000 IB - 3x150cl
With there being much more clay in the soil here, one expects a more robust wine and that is exactly what one gets. One almost gets more spice, and more structure, although Benoît avoids new oak which tones down the power somewhat and keeps everything in balance. Given time, this could be really quite serious.
Drink from 2033
2023 Montrachet Grand Cru
£2490 IB - 3x75cl
£5250 IB - 3x150cl
Another very backward wine but this is coiled up rather than structurally massive and just needs time to unfurl.
Drink from 2034
Domaine
Ballot-Millot
The domaine can trace its roots back in Burgundy almost 400 years, and officially Charles is the fifteenth generation of his family to take up the mantle of vigneron. Since those early days in the 1630s (!) the domaine has evolved rather a lot and acquired various parcels from various sources, though perhaps more through the maternal side of the family than the paternal side.
Charles Ballot’s grandfather was a Ballot, his grandmother a Millot but then, on his mother’s side, he is also linked to the Lochardet and Dancer families, and it’s for that reason that he shares the Tête du Clos part of Morgeot with his cousins, Vincent Dancer and Armand Heitz (Lochardet).
Charles took over from his father Philippe Ballot at the start of the new Millenium, although his father was still quite youthful at that time. But it was clear even then that Charles was destined to do something special at the domaine so why delay? As they say, if you’re good enough you’re old enough!
Over twenty years on and Charles has firmly established himself as one of the top names of Meursault. He has around 10 hectares of which about 20% are red. He also has a good smattering of old vines. Wines spend 12 months in barrel and then a further 4-6 months in steel so that they get a second winter in the cellar. He is quite sparing with new oak, generally keeping to 15/20%. He likes to work with lees to keep his wines in a slightly reductive state during élévage.
Charles began picking on the 6th September with the pHs between 3.28 and 3.37, a fraction higher than one or two other domaines, but very much in the same ball park. The whites came in around 13.5 which again was pretty standard for the vintage. There were some amazing wines in the line up, but that is nothing new given the quality consistently emerging from this domaine.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Blanc
£123 IB - 6x75cl
A mix of parcels for this with 70% of the fruit coming from Meursault and 30% from Puligny, the latter being a crucial addition in a vintage like this as it adds vital energy and definition. As usual, just a hint of reduction here which brings a nice sapidity to the wine. Great value Bourgogne.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault
£288 IB - 6x75cl
£330 IB - 3x150cl
Fruit from the four parcels of Les Pelles, Les Peutes Vignes, Les Chaumes de Narvaux and Les Corbins which together cover most bases in the village. This is really quite saline and taut, with a salivating savoury quality and a high level of extract which hints at the power beneath. A fine example.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault ‘Les Criots’
£336 IB - 6x75cl
£378 IB - 3x150cl
More stone in this cuvée which comes from the northern part of the village near Volnay. Despite the more obvious richness it retains an impressive level of precision and clearly its best years are ahead of it.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault ‘Les Narvaux’
£420 IB - 3x150cl
One of our favourite wines in the primeur offer every single year. It always has such authority and class, this version is, as usual, full of life and minerality, but there is also a touch more overt fruit than usual. Plenty of extract, and a little reduction accentuating the stony undertones and impressive length. Drink from 2029
Domaine
Ballot-Millot
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Morgeot Tête de Clos’
£546 IB - 6x75cl
£588 IB - 3x150cl
It’s interesting to see the difference in vintage impact between the villages with two wines from the same domaine. Despite being a Morgeot, albeit one from arguably the best and most mineral part of the vineyard, the Chassagne is less rich and fruit driven than the Meursaults, supposedly because it had rain that Meursault never got. The gun flint, slightly reductive nose is a delight and it combines Morgeot weight with Tête du Clos vivacity which comes from the extra limestone in the soil. This is a seriously good Chassagne.
Drink from 2030
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes’
£678 IB - 6x75cl
£720 IB - 3x150cl
Again, some lovely gunflint reduction on the nose, which gives way to a mix of stone and floral fruit flavours. Lively and lean for a Charmes, as many are this year, and lovely harmony. A very classical Meursault indeed.
Drink from 2030
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Genevrières’
£768 IB - 6x75cl
£804 IB - 3x150cl
Slightly more prominent reduction but again this just adds another layer of interest. Lively, bright, refreshing and really quite complex and controlled. Layered and long on the finish and a lovely intensity and sapidity.
Drink from 2031
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’
£900 IB - 6x75cl
£942 IB - 3x150cl
Not far off being the perfect example of this fantastic Cru. The combination of richness from the vintage and minerality from the vineyard is a match made in heaven. Its tautness contrasts deliciously with its matter and weight and leaves a finish as long and as complex as you could wish for. Job done.
Drink from 2032
Reds
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Santenots’
£336 IB - 6x75cl
Good vigour and drive here which lift up the slightly darker fruits and give them a bright energy. Despite the obvious ripeness there remains this linear freshness which adds length and interest.
Drink from 2031
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Pézerolles’
£462 IB - 6x75cl
Lots of small berries here providing plenty of natural concentration and life-giving acidity. The grippy tannins are well integrated and there is the substance for this to age very well.
Drink from 2031
New Charles Boigelot
One of the reasons I love what I do is that finding the next winemaking genius is always a possibility, however remote that possibility might be. One has to kiss a lot of vinous frogs to find such a prince (or princess!), but the durité of that journey almost makes the discovery even more rewarding.
When I first came across young Charles Boigelot, I was struck by his charming authority, a refreshing contrast to the brash arrogance some of his generation convey. When he told me that he had spent 2 years doing an internship with Raphaël Coche and another 12 months with Thierry Pillot and in the same breath told me that he was still only 21, I suddenly felt very old! Thankfully he has finally turned 22, so I can relax a little now!
Apparently, he did his first harvest on the family domaine when he was just 14 and decided there and then that being a vigneron was what he wanted to do for the rest of his days. How nice to have such clarity in one’s life from such an early age.
Eight years later he is well on his way to achieving that goal. He is now working with his father, Eric, and taking responsibility for the domaine’s white wines, while trying to slowly change the style of vinification of the reds. It’s very much a work in process, but already there has been a big gear change in the quality of wine emerging from the domaine.
And now, he has begun a small side project which is where we come into the picture. He is basically selling himself some of the family fruit and bottling a range of wines under his newly created eponymous label. Under
this label he is free from the shackles of those around him and can do exactly what he wants to in terms of vinification. Since April, I have been back three times just to be sure that my talent radar is working properly, and each time I have come away still more convinced about what he is doing. And having subsequently had a very positive thumbs up from both Raphaël and Thierry, I am genuinely thrilled about the potential that is here.
For the moment, volumes are tiny, but that will change, and I would urge you to support this young winemaker who is undoubtedly heading for the stars. We have put the wines in 3s to help us allocate them as widely as possible.
Whites
2023 Meursault ‘Les Pelles’
£192 IB - 3x75cl
Les Pelles lies in the middle of the appellation just below the vast majority of the 1ers Crus. This is a little richer than the Monthelie, but still shows a hint of reduction and a lovely fine lees concentration and sense of matière. His time at Coche and Pillot were clearly not lost on him! For a first vintage of a village wine, this is great.
Drink from 2027
Reds
2023 Monthelie ‘Les Plantes’
£84 IB - 3x75cl
Les Plantes lies a little further back in the valley at the top of the slope facing west on limestone rich soil. It’s 100% whole bunch and wonderfully defined and vibrant with a purity that’s both lush and detailed at the same time. Lovely wine.
Drink from 2027
Domaine Pernot Belicard
Etienne Sauzet
Etienne Sauzet
Domaine Ballot-Millot
Domaine
Henri Germain & Fils
This domaine has a fairly short history by comparison to some and it’s therefore a testament to the quality of the wines that it produces that it is held in such high regard, especially by those in the know, after such a relatively short space of time.
It began life 50 years ago in 1973 when Henri Germain bought some vineyards in Meursault. Alongside these, he also had vineyards from his wife, who hailed from the Pillot dynasty in Chassagne. Today it is run by his son, the charming Jean-François, who has been joined fairly recently by his highly motivated daughter, Lucie.
The domaine totals around seven hectares with some additional Poruzots vines coming from his wife’s side of the family.. Many of the parcels are more than 50 years old. The wines are beautifully unmanipulated, given time and a second winter in the cellar to find their feet. They age well and express strong terroir characteristics, whilst combining fruit intensity and vibrancy perfectly. Proper Burgundies that still fly a little under the radar.
Jean-François and his daughter, Lucie, began harvesting on the 5th September, working with a small, agile team of experienced pickers. The wines were a little richer in places than usual but retained a real sense of balance and definition with a number of stand-out cuvées among them.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc
£TBC
This is a blend of various parcels from Meursault and one from Chassagne and is really quite racy and lemon fresh. Nice tension and length and quite serious for a Bourgogne.
Drink from 2026
2023 Meursault
£TBC
This is quite a bit richer and fuller than the Bourgogne with a broader structured denser fruit. Plenty of matter to help it age nicely.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault ‘Les Chevalières’
£TBC
This is a vineyard, which according to Lucie, tends to do really well in warmer years and it certainly got a big thumbs up from me scoring a double tick! Quite cool flavours and well defined without lacking anything in terms of concentration. Long and very sapid.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault ‘Le Limozin’
£TBC
The vines here are 70 years old and there is more clay in the soil, which means it didn’t suffer at all from hydric stress. Consequently it ripened very well and this certainly has a much bigger frame than the Chevalières. Lovely, in fact, to see such a stark difference between the two wines, both reflecting their terroir very clearly. This will need a little time to settle and marry but good potential.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Morgeot’
£TBC
This vineyard came from Lucie’s mother’s side of the family and appears to come from a part of Morgeot where there is a fair bit of limestone as it’s quite taut and racy. Great acidity and full of life.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Poruzots’
£TBC
As we have seen at other domaines, Poruzots this year contrasts quite dramatically with the versions we saw last year with the ’22 vintage. Lots more weight and power this year.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes’
£TBC
This is still coming together and at the moment it’s a bit everything, with some mineral elements, plenty of richness, a little sappiness and lots of fruit on the back palate. Once it settles, it could well be very nice.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’
£TBC
Back to ticking boxes here. Lots of small berries give the wine a grand cru like concentration and intensity as well as concentrating the acidity, so that there is also lovely bite and vivacity. Another top notch Perrières.
Drink from 2030
Domaine
Henri Germain & Fils
Reds
2023
Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge
£TBC
This comes from a cool site and it’s always the last to be harvested which means it works a treat in ’23. Extraction is very gentle with no pigeage done at all. Linear, pure and salivating. Yet another excellent red Chassagne.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault ‘Clos des Mouches’ Rouge
£TBC
This half hectare monopole has produced a wine with plenty of structure but also quite floral in style, despite there being no whole bunch. Plenty of stuffing here and a lovely intensity on the drawn-out finish.
Drink from 2029
2023 Savigny-lès-Beaune ‘Aux Gravains’
£TBC
Tighter and earthier on the nose but quite lush and open in the mouth. There is plenty of structure though and the fruit is a little darker which suggests good concentration and that time will be the making of it.
Drink from 2029
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Bressandes’
£TBC
This is altogether different in style. Lots of fruit again but much more delicacy and silkiness of tannin. Cool, calm and sophisticated.
Drink from 2029
Domaine
Albert Grivault
With vineyard prices where they are today, it’s very difficult to imagine the era during (or just after) the phylloxera crisis in the late nineteenth century, when one couldn’t give land away. Back then, 23-year-old Albert Grivault had the foresight to buy the monopole Clos des Perrières, in theory the best bit of Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières.
Today, a hectare of prime 1er Cru like that might set you back a prohibitive 10 million euros, certainly a little too much for someone just out of school. But chapeau to Albert, he used this vineyard to form the heart of his new domaine, which he created in 1879. Fast forward 145 years to 2024 and we find his grandson, Michel Bardet, 85 years young, still coming to the domaine every day to check on how things are and meeting clients. His daughter, Claire, manages the estate on a day-to-day basis, operating out of the house that her great grandfather had bought in 1908, the year before he died. His wife, and their daughter, continued to run the domaine after his death, although the fifteen hectares that they had initially inherited were gradually reduced bit by bit through sales and charitable donations.
In another indication of the change in perspective from today, the family decided to sell 1.5 hectares of Clos Vougeot in 1931 because it was deemed too far away, in the foreign country that is the Côte de Nuits! Somehow, this domaine continues to function very much under the radar despite its history and reputation. The wines are excellent, very fine indeed, and perform very well against their peers. There are four whites made and one red.
The first two whites are an interesting curiosity, as one is an extension of the other in terms of vineyard, yet they are different appellations. Part of the Clos du Murgers, which lies behind the house, is classified as Bourgogne and part as Meursault. It’s 2.5 hectares in size in total, of which the Bourgogne accounts for just over a third. The Bourgogne was replanted quite recently in 2001, whilst the Meursault is just over 50 years old, having been replanted in 1971. Aside from their hectare of the Clos des Perrières, they also have 1.5 hectares of ‘straight’ Perrières, which makes them the biggest holder of vines in the appellation. The Pommard 1er Cru Clos Blanc comes from a vineyard with lots of limestone and tends towards the linear, vibrant style of Pommard.
The domaine began harvesting on 2nd September and the wines, as a range, were firstly, really vibrant and racy, more so than many of the other Meursaults I tasted. And secondly, they were simply brilliant. pHs around 3.30 and degrees between 12.5 and 13.
2023 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Clos du Murgers’
£195 IB - 6x75cl
Great bite and energy here with excellent concentration and lots of savoury notes. Officially, this may only be a humble Bourgogne, but it’s an impressive wine of real length and breeding.
Drink from 2026
2023 Meursault ‘Clos du Murger’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
£345 IB - 3x150cl
Very stoney and mineral, more so than the Bourgogne which perhaps explains the division of the parcel into two different quality levels. The 20% new oak is almost invisible and it’s the restraint and vibrancy of the wine that really impresses.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’
£630 IB - 6x75cl
60-year-old vines here and real substance and matter. Great structure and depth of flavour which contrasts with the wonderful minerality that acts as a vibrant core running right through its heart. Great potential and another outstanding Perrières in this vintage.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Clos des Perrières’
£810 IB - 6x75cl
Just a mild hint of reduction here, with aromas of gunflint alongside aromas of silex. The soil in the Clos is slightly deeper than in the normal Perrières and the wine is consequently a little richer both in terms of fruit and structure. Lots to come.
Drink from 2030
2023
Pommard 1er Cru ‘Clos Blanc’
£345 IB - 6x75cl
This is always released a year later than the whites, but, boy is it worth the wait. It’s easy to forget it’s a Pommard such is the sophistication and integration of the tannins. Extraction is kept to a minimum with pumping over rather than pigeage the preferred method. Great purity and a beautifully transparent salinity.
Drink from 2030
Domaine
Antoine Jobard
The history of this domaine is not overly complicated, but it does stretch back to the late 19th century and has seen five generations at the helm since that time.
François Jobard began working with his father, Pierre, at the domaine back in 1957, Pierre having taken over from his father, also called Pierre, who would have overseen the estate since the 1920s or possibly just before. In 1971, when Pierre (the father rather than the grandfather) retired, the estate was divided up between François and his brother Charles, whose share would later become Domaine Rémi Jobard. A few years later, François would start bottling his own production, having previously followed the family tradition of selling the fruit off to negociants. He would continue working at the domaine until completing his 50th vintage in 2007! By that time, he had been working alongside his son Antoine for five years, and both were ready for Antoine to assume full control.
Under François’ direction, the wines were typically quite backward, certainly reticent in youth and a far cry from the general perception of Meursault as rich and nutty. François would bottle his wines quite late, almost two years after the harvest, having allowed the wines to evolve very quietly in barrel with little intervention. Over time Antoine has adapted his approach, but more by evolution than revolution, bottling a little earlier but still following the idea of a second winter in the cellar.
Given his father’s approach, Antoine was never going to become Monsieur Bâtonnage, but he has learnt to work with the fine lees in his wines to bring a punctuation and delineation to them that even in lower acid vintages
creates freshness and energy and, in the case of 2022 and 2023, a lovely mineral, mouthwatering saltiness. Generally, Antoine’s wines remain a real reference point for fine white Burgundy, and now that he has almost as much Pinot as Chardonnay in the cellar (seven hectares of Chardonnay and six of Pinot) following recent acquisitions, watch this space to see him become a fine source of reds, too.
Antoine started picking on 1st September. Yields remained fairly normal, thanks to some of the older plots and there was plenty of richness and power in the range as a whole. At the lower end the wines will probably drink well quite early, whilst the top crus will require quite a bit more time as they are quite substantial. The reds were looking very attractive, sweet-fruited and silky.
2023 Bourgogne Blanc
£150 IB - 6x75cl
This is made from fruit from five different parcels of vines from various parts of Meursault. This is really very rich and concentrated for a Bourgogne.
Drink from 2026
2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘Sur le Sentier du Clou’
£354 IB - 6x75cl
This has quite a broad attack and then a lemony core takes over before it finishes with a flourish of citrussy vitality.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault
£360 IB - 6x75cl
This is more classically Jobard in style; compact and lean with lots of energy and bite. A really excellent village wine.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Blagny’
£660 IB - 6x75cl
The cooler, stony site of Blagny has done well in ’23. It embraces the richness of Meursault in this vintage, but contrasts that nicely with its natural stoniness and drive. A good combo.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes’
£660 IB - 6x75cl
Conversely, this is almost less rich than usual, although it wasn’t the only Charmes to come across that way in ’23. The white fruits and gravelly stone come through nicely, alongside plenty of volume.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Antoine Jobard
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Poruzots’
£660 IB - 6x75cl
Curiously, this feels slightly richer than the Charmes which is counterintuitive. The stone of the soil and the naturally occurring citrus component still shine through, but there is just more fat and overt richness.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Genevrières’
£1260 IB - 6x75cl
Seriously good wine again this year. Tick worthy for sure. Lovely freshness, really lithe and energetic. Great poise and precision.
Drink from 2031
Domaine
Matrot
The history of this domaine dates back to the mid nineteenth century, although the direct Matrot involvement began a little later with Claude Matrot, born in 1949. His son, Joseph, married the granddaughter of vigneron Simon Boillot who had inherited family vineyards, following the death of her brother Charles during World War One. Maguerite and Joseph built up the domaine as much as possible and were joined by their young son, Pierre, just before World War Two. He, in turn, was joined by his son, Thierry, in the mid-seventies, and the two of them worked alongside each other, with Thierry taking charge of the vinification in 1983, whilst his father continued to work the vines well into his later years. Thierry and his wife, Pascale, continued to develop the domaine and were joined by their two daughters, Elsa and Adèle in 2008 and 2010 respectively.
The various acquisitions over the years means that the domaine now totals 29 hectares of which two-thirds are white and one-third is red. The whites are mainly spread across Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, whilst the reds are more varied with vineyards in Volnay, Meursault, Monthélie, Maranges, Auxey-Duresses and Blagny. All the reds are 100% destemmed. The village wines see about 20% new oak whilst the premiers crus generally a little more.
With over 25 hectares in the domaine, the harvest takes quite some time, and the two sisters began on the 31st August and finished more than 2 weeks later on the 16th September. They had done a green harvest in July but didn’t pursue it too hard as it was merely encouraging the vines to be more vigorous! With this early start, the pHs of the whites came in nice and low at 3.25 with the reds
just a little higher at between 3.4 and 3.5. Aside from a couple of wines, everything came in under 14 degrees. A couple of bouts of hydric stress stopped levels from shooting up too high.
Elsa took me through the wines and seemed really happy with what they had produced. Having only been tasting there for four years, the wines seem to be getting better each year, as they start to reap the rewards of their hard work in the vineyards and their careful tweaks in the cuverie.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Chardonnay
£102 IB - 6x75cl
The fruit for this wine comes from a number of parcels from various parts of Burgundy, including Meursault, the Hautes-Côtes and Chablis. The idea is to get the perfect mix of vibrancy and fruit intensity which they seem to have achieved. 20% new oak just adds a little tinge of sappiness to the energetic stony palate.
Drink from 2026
2023 Meursault
£270 IB - 6x75cl
£300 IB - 3x150cl
This has even more parcels of fruit assembled together (twelve in all) and is aged in older barrels of between 1 and 5 years. There is decent bite on the finish which gives it extra length, while the mid palate is quite rich and open.
Drink from 2026
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Blagny’
£459 IB - 6x75cl
£492 IB - 3x150cl
Higher up behind Meursault, this premier cru has been having a field day in recent vintages thanks to the greater level of sunshine Burgundy is experiencing.. Where once upon a time the wines were a touch too austere, now they combine that natural zip with an extra degree of richness and flavour which is just what this wine does. Excellent stoniness and energy.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes’
£459 IB - 6x75cl
£492 IB - 3x150cl
Elsa has around a hectare of vines in Charmes, though she has three or four separate parcels which make up that number. With around 70% planted in the most mineral part of Charmes, it is not that surprising that the wine is edgier than one might suspect for a Charmes. This is really promising.
Drink from 2029
Domaine Matrot
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’
£642 IB - 6x75cl
£678 IB - 3x150cl
There’s half hectare of Perrières in the domaine which is nice, and it’s arguably the wine of the vintage this time round. The vines are 60-years-old and give the wine great fruit intensity, but at the same time there is a big hit of stone and energy which will only evolve further given another six months in steel (following trials in 2016 of a second winter in steel, all the premiers crus now see a second winter in the cellar before bottling).
Drink from 2030
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’
£459 IB - 6x75cl
£492 IB - 3x150cl
This is quite fruit driven and expressive with fairly upfront flavours and a little citric zip to give it an attractive lift.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Chalumaux’
£450 IB - 6x75cl
£480 IB - 3x150cl
With a due east exposure and very chalky soil one would expect this to be really quite lean and backward, but in fact it is full of fruit, albeit with an underlying chalky minerality.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Combettes’
£678 IB - 3x150cl
This is nicely saline on the nose but broader and more powerful in the mouth, suggesting a nice mix of the two once it all marries together.
Drink from 2029
Reds
2023 Monthelie Rouge
£138 IB - 6x75cl
£174 IB - 3x150cl
Given the nature of the soil in Monthelie it’s not surprising how appealingly linear this wine is. Medium weight, fresh red fruits and nice focussed energy.
Drink from 2027
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Santenots’
£246 IB - 6x75cl
This is a very pretty Volnay that displays a touch of earthiness alongside pretty red fruits and a little spice.
Drink from 2028
2023 Blagny 1er Cru ‘ Sous le Bois’
£246 IB - 6x75cl
£282 IB - 3x150cl
Probably the pick of the reds, showing nice concentration and a fresh, sapid palate of crunchy, bright red fruits.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Tessier
Michel Tessier used to run this estate until he tragically, and rather suddenly, died in the mid-noughties. His son, Arnaud, had little choice but to step up and take over things, despite no doubt having anticipated having an extended apprenticeship alongside his dad. Michel had traditionally sold most his production to local négociants, but Arnaud quickly decided that he wanted to bottle as much as he could under his own name and we were amongst the first people to start importing his wines over a decade ago.
He and his partner, Catherine, are very much in this adventure together and can often be found in the vines pruning away together. They have recently taken over the old family house and cellars and have spent a lot of time and effort renovating both. They have also been busy re-planting some of their vineyards, including, rather frustratingly, their prime site of Genevrières, which has, consequently, been out of production for a couple of years, but is happily back in 2023. In total they farm, organically, 7.5 hectares of which a good proportion is Bourgogne, from which they make three different cuvées. They keep the amount of new oak quite low, as their lean, racy style doesn’t particularly support lots of wood.
2023 is a very successful vintage for Arnaud and Cat and one really gets a sense that this is a domaine ready to move forward significantly. Having made a lot of investment, financially, emotionally and physically over the past decade, everything really seems to be coming together. There is great minerality and electrifying energy right across the range. In a vintage where some Meursaults were on the richer side, here the wines retained a wonderful poise and focus. In Burgundian terms there is still a lot of value to be had here.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Côte d’Or’
£144 IB - 6x75cl
This comes from four different parcels, two in Puligny and two in Meursault. Great stoniness on the nose and really savoury in the mouth. It lacks nothing in concentration and offers a high level of class for a humble Bourgogne.
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Champ Perrier’
£150 IB - 6x75cl
From a vineyard next to Corvées des Vignes in PulignyMontrachet, this is perhaps the most backward of the three Bourgognes and will need a little time to come to itself.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault
£288 IB - 6x75cl
A blend of Les Corbins and Millerandes with each parcel bringing something different to the table. This is both smoky (in the flinty sense of the word) and citrussy with excellent concentration on the mid-palate and just enough tension holding it all together.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault
£354 IB - 6x75cl
‘Les Casse-Têtes’
£372 IB - 3x150cl
Casse-Têtes sits on the old quarry where much of the stone for the local houses was excavated. One can almost taste the chalk in the glass. As usual it was the last parcel to be harvested as it’s quite a cold site being so high up, so the minerality of the soil is enhanced by the freshness of the fruit.
Steely and tense with plenty of austerity. Lovely.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Le Poruzot Dessus’
£480 IB - 6x75cl
£498 IB - 3x150cl
The domaine has two parcels from the upper part of the vineyard with vines as old as 95 years of age. Strong citrus aromas jump from the glass, even though the wine is arguably more backward than usual. Stoney, clean and very lively.
Promising.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Charmes Dessus’
£498 IB - 6x75cl
With separate parcels from the top part of the vineyard (Dessus) with some vines also close to their century, this is really quite serious. Lovely salinity and savoury elements from start to finish and, though still a little primary, there is great potential. Very promising indeed.
Drink from 2030
Domaine Antoine Jobard
Domaine Barolet-Pernot
The Pernot family of Puligny-Montrachet has many strands to it these days, following various marriages and changes of generation. Aside from our very own Philippe Pernot, his cousin Alvina is also attracting plenty of positive press. And now we are delighted to introduce another member of this extended family, Romain Barolet-Pernot, who is the grandson of Paul Pernot’s sister Huguette, who married André Barolet back in 1957!
The result of this union has resulted in a domaine consisting of various vineyards in both St-Romain and Puligny-Montrachet, although he operates out of a cuverie in the former. I tasted with Romain a couple of times last year and liked the 2022s we tasted together. There seemed to be plenty of promise emanating from the young winemaker, but I was keen to taste another vintage to confirm my optimism. So, I went back this autumn to taste the 2023 and was delighted to find that this optimism was not misplaced.
Romain has been working on an extended élévage, with a view to bottling later, and a more nuanced approach to oak ageing to suit the various wines more specifically. What’s especially exciting is that if Romain continues to make the significant strides he made from the ’22 vintage to the ’23, then we are in for some exciting treats over the next few years. He has some great plots and plenty of family heritage to both live up to and inspire him. Watch this space!
2023 Saint-Romain ‘Sous le Chateau’ Blanc
£189 IB - 6x75cl
The vines here are fifty years old and as the parcel name suggests the vines sit just in front of the Château, on very stony soil. Consequently the wine has a very linear understated quality to it, with elements of stone fruits, white flowers and chalk. Very promising.
Drink from 2026
2023 Saint-Romain ‘ Sous la Velle’ Blanc
£189 IB - 6x75cl
This vineyard used to be planted with Pinot Noir, but quite rightly, given the chalky character of the soil, it was replanted with Chardonnay about ten years ago. A third new oak feels about right, and considering that the vines are in their first flush of youth, there is plenty of substance to the wine. Clearly a fine site for Chardonnay.
Drink from 2027
2023 Auxey-Duresses ‘Les Clous’ Blanc
£204 IB - 6x75cl
This has been aged in a mix of new barrels and stainless steel, which arguably works out as the equivalent of using about 20% new oak. This particular vineyard faces due south, but given the site is a cooler one and the soil is fairly white, the mix of ripeness and vibrancy is a winning one. Good purity and freshness here. Nice example.
Drink from 2026
2023 Puligny-Montrachet ‘La Brelance’
£348 IB - 6x75cl
£396 IB - 3x150cl
This is a great plot of village wine, lying just below the 1er Cru of Clavoillon. The vines are 70 years old, and the wine is aged in large barrels (not new) to minimise oak impact. This is super clean with good focus and energy, yet a palpable sense of matière. Very promising.
Drink from 2027
2023 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Enseignères’
£372 IB - 6x75cl
£414 IB - 3x150cl
This is arguably an even better parcel of village wine, nestling just under the grands crus. Romain has a third of a hectare in total. and again uses a mix of normal barriques and bigger barrels to get all the benefits of oak ageing and none of the unwanted side effects. This is more noticeably reductive than the Brelance, but very much in a good way. Racy, chiselled and very Puligny.
Drink from 2027
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Clos de la Garenne’
£456 IB - 6x75cl
£498 IB - 3x150cl
This is an interesting plot that is a genuine Clos but is not physically attached to the better known Cru of La Garenne. It’s found in a clearing in the trees and has hardly any owners. Romain himself has less than 1/10th of a hectare. The soil is stony and fairly poor, giving it a fairly classical undertone. One of the two and a bit barrels is new equating to around 40%. In the mouth the wine is harmonious and salivating and really rather moreish, with good drive and vibrancy.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Pucelles’
£540 IB - 6x75cl
This is a great plot sandwiched between the grands crus of Bienvenue and Bâtard and the premier cru Clavoillon. This has a little more body and matter and is ultimately more reserved. It gave the impression that it would really benefit from further élévage during the cold winter months.
Drink from 2029
2023 Batard-Montrachet
£1260 IB - 3x75cl
£2550 IB - 3x150cl
Like the Pucelles, this needs a little more time in barrel or en masse to refine itself and develop nuance and character. At the moment it’s certainly very powerful and concentrated but it’s a bit like a young horse still learning to race. Given time, it should evolve into something really quite impressive. Drink from 2032
Auxey-Duresses
Domaine Lafouge
The Lafouge family and their involvement in vineyards can be traced all the way back to the middle of the 17th century. But, for now, we are focusing on the two generations who are currently running the domaine.
Gilles has really made a name for himself over the past 20 years, consistently producing wines of high quality from the emerging appellation of Auxey-Duresses.
Although he has some nice parcels of Meursault, including a very recent acquisition of something quite special (more about this below), it is his lieux dits and premiers crus from Auxey for which he is best known. And now that the appellation is being touted as ‘the next big thing’ thanks to the change in climate and its proximity to Meursault, his talented son, Maxime, will be able to bask in the increasing glory of their various offerings.
Maxime has worked around the world, including at Newton Johnson in South Africa and Lingua Franca in Oregon, and has now returned to the family estate to work with his dad.
Last year I stated that Maxime and Gilles had probably never made a finer collection of wines than their ’22s. Well, now they have. These ’23s are excellent, at all levels and in both colours. If ever there was an appellation that was going to revel in a vintage like 2023 then it was Auxey-Duresses. And then on top of that they have made some lovely Meursaults from vineyards close to Auxey. All in all, a real triumph.
They began harvesting on the 6th September and with degrees rising rapidly by the day, Maxime had to call up his girlfriend to mobilise more pickers: she just happens to be Bruno Colin’s daughter! Maxime describes the results as a “beau millésime en rouge (although I think he’s slightly underplaying it) et un grand millésime en blanc”
For the reds, Maxime didn’t use any whole bunch in 2023 and kept pigeage to a real minimum, just doing a little bit at the beginning of the fermentation to add substance, but nothing after that as he was keen to avoid any durité. The approach seems to have worked a treat.
Whites
2023 Auxey-Duresses ‘Les Hautes’
£147 IB - 6x75cl
£153 IB - 3x150cl
As the name suggests this vineyard can be found at the top of the slope which helps give it a lovely airy quality with aromas of minerals and stones. Very sapid and precise and really quite delightful.
Drink from 2028
2023 Auxey-Duresses ‘Les Boutonniers’
£147 IB - 6x75cl
This vineyard is lower down the slope, but the slope is really quite steep and faces north-west. Thus, the wine retains a great sense of purpose and energy and delivers lots of mineral character. A slight contrast to the Hautés but it’s difficult to have a really clear preference.
Drink from 2028
2023 Auxey-Duresses
1er Cru ‘Les Duresses Lieu Dit Parapelle’ Blanc
£180 IB - 6x75cl
This is a specific strip of Les Duresses known as Parapelle right at the top of the slope where the soil is very white. It’s well exposed, facing south-east, so it gets plenty of sunshine to give it matière, which contrasts beautifully with its natural nervosity from the soil.
Drink from 2029
2023 Meursault
£210 IB - 6x75cl
This is a mightily impressive village wine and one that certainly vies for village wine of the offer. It has a lovely fine leesy quality which brings both concentration and refinement simultaneously to the wine. A great big tick for this one.
Drink from 2028
Domaine Lafouge
2023 Meursault ‘Les Meix Chavaux’
£240 IB - 6x75cl
This lies just across the border of Auxey in Meursault. It certainly from the same family as the wine above, just a little more backward and less expressive at this stage. Very complete and full of energy again.
Drink from 2030
2023 Meursault ‘Les Casse-Têtes’
£240 IB - 6x75cl
This vineyard sits atop the old quarry of Meursault where the soil is about as chalky and rocky as can be. The resulting wine very much reflects its origins. It has a lovely mouth-watering austerity which teasingly drips sweet essence of stone onto the tastebuds. Super stuff.
Drink from 2030
2023 Meursault ‘Clos de Rougeot’ Monopole
£525 IB - 6x75cl
This was a very exciting addition to the portfolio back in 2020 when the existing owner decided to give first refusal to the Lafouge family who jumped at this rare chance to buy such a wonderful parcel. In 2023 this cuvée took a long time to go through its fermentation, but this merely increased its intensity of flavour. Lots of matter, intensity and complexity. All in all a very serious wine.
Drink from 2030
Reds
2023 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘Les Ecussaux’
£159 IB - 6x75cl
This vineyard is found in the lower part of the village where the soil is very red and iron rich. The wine is fragrant and floral and full of juicy fruit. Open and expressive, it could almost be drunk immediately, though, of course, a year or two in bottle will make it much more interesting.
Drink from 2026
2023 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘Climat du Val’
£159 IB - 6x75cl
This is from much higher up the slope and is still in the shade when the morning sun rises. But the soil is lighter and the grip and tannic structure it imparts is quite restrained and merely adds energy and focus.
Drink from 2028
2023 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘La Chapelle’
£159 IB - 6x75cl
£165 IB - 3x150cl
This may not be the poster boy of Auxey, that role falls to the wine below, but it was, for me, the absolute pick of a very impressive bunch of reds. The quality of tannin was extraordinary for a wine from this neck of the woods and more akin to those we see in much grander appellations in the Côte de Nuits. Such sophistication and total phenolic ripeness to the extent that there is a rare polish and gloss to this wine. Beautiful harmony and poise.
Drink from 2028
2023 Auxey-Duresses
1er Cru ‘Les Duresses’
£159 IB - 6x75cl
Great potential here and very long, and it will be fun to argue in years to come about the respective merits of this and the La Chapelle. In many ways this is the most classical of the two Auxeys. It certainly has more power and structure; it just needs time to show its class.
Drink from 2030
Domaine de Montille
The history of the domaine can be traced all the way back to the mid-eighteenth century, although the name Domaine de Montille did not come into being until the marriage of two people with wonderful names in 1863:
Etienne Joseph Marie Léonce Bizouard de Montille and Marie Eléonore Chauvelot de Chevannes.
At this point in time the Domaine had a total of 20 hectares made up of some of the region’s very finest vineyards across both Côtes, including the jewel of many vignerons’ eyes, Musigny. Sadly, over the next 100 years or so, for a number of differing reasons, it was gradually downsized to around just 3 hectares, principally in Volnay, where the family home was.
Lawyer, Hubert de Montille, who took over the domaine in the late ’40s, then reversed this trend and began to acquire and vinify various new plots from other villages. His son, Etienne, who had previously worked in finance, then took on the mantel and, over the past 20 years, has taken the domaine to a new level both in terms of size and reputation.
Today, the domaine totals 35 hectares with some wonderful vineyards outside of Volnay including in Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and Vosne-Romanée, amongst others. For a number of years now, the domaine has been working biodynamically. In the cuverie, American Brian Sieve has been the Chef de Cave since 2010. He seems to have a real feel for his métier and there is little doubt that the wines have never been so good.
With the biodynamic vines producing superlative grapes since the conversion (it always takes a few years for the change to be tangible), the endless run of excellent vintages with fully phenolically ripe grapes (contrast this with the 1960s and ‘70s), and the know-how of Brian with his beautifully nuanced approach, everything has come together perfectly. In terms of vinification, Brian is a very positive proponent of whole-bunch and is happy to go to 100% should the wine and vintage merit it. Contrastingly, the use of new oak is much more tempered, very rarely jumping above 50%. The wines tend to enjoy a second winter in the cellar, to heighten their finesse and length. Extraction is restrained and all the wines are geared to be refined, subtle and terroir-driven.
For the 2023s, Brian began harvesting on 1st September and everything came in between 12.7 and 13.3.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Clos Du Château’
£264 IB - 12x75cl
A terrific start to the whites with this superior Bourgogne from the parcel in front of the Château de Puligny. Nice extract and stony elements give a lovely salivating quality. Good value.
Drink from 2027
2023 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘En Remilly’
£504 IB - 12x75cl
This is from a big plot of vines that Etienne bought some time ago when he acquired Château de Puligny-Montrachet. Being well exposed to the sun brings plenty of richness to the wine but it’s offset by the stoniness of the soil and the steepness of the slope, so there’s a cracking mix of mouthwatering fruit intensity.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Les Porusots’
£948 IB - 12x75cl
£510 IB - 3x150cl
A little richer than usual but it still shows its telltale lemony, flinty quality which adds nice piquancy to the palate.
Drink from 2028
2023 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’
£840 IB - 6x75cl
£870 IB - 3x150cl
Yet another cracking Perrières, though this one is a little leaner than some and still very much about the stones and the minerals of the site. Stone lickingly good.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Folatières’
£660 IB - 6x75cl
More reduction here and clear notes of gun flint. Lovely harmony and poise and really quite complex.
Drink from 2029
Domaine de Montille
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Le Cailleret’
£840 IB - 6x75cl
£870 IB - 3x150cl
Sited just along from Montrachet itself, this parcel was bought from Domaine Charton some time ago. This is more backward than the Folatières and there is more reduction currently, but I like the intensity and coiled finish which promises so much.
Drink from 2030
2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
£1080 IB - 6x75cl
£1110 IB - 3x150cl
This is really quite rich for a Corton-Charlemagne given its reputation as a racy white. Lots of power and structure all wrapped within. Almost more like a Bâtard.
Drink from 2030
2023 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
£3180 IB - 6x75cl
£3240 IB - 3x150cl
Much more classic in style in terms of typicity of appellation. Reductive, backward and tense, this is all about the length of flavour and the dynamism on the finish.
Drink from 2032
Reds
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Sizies’
£480 IB - 12x75cl
With around two hectares of Sizies, Etienne Is one of the largest owners of the appellation. It’s a nice site, traditionally producing, in the right hands, very elegant, vibrant Pinots full of energy and bright fruit. This is very much in that style, though perhaps a little more immediate than usual.
Drink from 2029
2023 Pommard ‘Les Cras’
£480 IB - 12x75cl
Cras sits just below the premiers crus on the Volnay side of the village. This has a nice mix of Pommard structure and Volnay minerality, which keeps the darkish fruit lithe and refreshing.
Drink from 2029
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Mitans’
£1260 IB - 12x75cl
£660 IB - 3x150cl
Slightly darker fruits here but almost 100% whole bunch to bring more freshness and florality to the wine. The added freshness tightens the wine on the finish but also gives it a greater elegance and focus. Nicely done.
Drink from 2031
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Taillepieds’
£678 IB - 6x75cl
£702 IB - 3x150cl
From higher up the slope, this is a more serious but more backward Volnay. Finely structured with excellent mineral tension and added freshness from the 50% whole bunch, this is not a wine for the impatient.
Drink from 2032
2023 Corton Grand Cru ‘Clos du Roi’
£918 IB - 6x75cl
£948 IB - 3x150cl
Clos du Roi is probably the most delicate and noble of the Cortons (as the name tends to imply), although this is a little richer than usual on the attack before tightening up on the finish. The 60% whole bunch kicks into action on the back palate and adds some drive and energy and keeps the whole thing fresh and lively.
Drink from 2031
Domaine de Montille
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Aux Malconsorts’
£1890 IB - 6x75cl
£1980 IB - 3x150cl
It’s almost twenty years since Etienne bought this prized parcel of Malconsorts. Normally, Malconsorts is impenetrable in youth, with its massive structure that seems to expand in the mouth not mellow. But here the fruit is so lush that although there is a little grip, one can’t help but be seduced by the sheer depth of glossy, silkily textured Pinot. Who knew Malconsorts could be flirtatious.
Drink from 2032
2023 Vosne-Romanée
1er Cru ‘Aux Malconsorts’ Christiane
£3180 IB - 6x75cl
£3240 IB - 3x150cl
The same with knobs on. More power, more gloss, more seduction!
Drink from 2035
Auxey-Duresses Pommard
Domaine
Jean-Marc Boillot
The origins of this domaine really began with the marriage of Colette Sauzet, daughter of Puligny grandee, Etienne Sauzet, to Jean Boillot, son of Henry. They had three children; Jeanine, who married Gérard Boudot, who became winemaker at the Sauzet estate, Henri, and Jean-Marc.
Jean-Marc left the family domaine in 1985 and alongside making a few vintages as winemaker at Olivier Leflaive, he began to produce wines under his own label. In 1988 he inherited some vineyards from his grandfather, Henri Boillot, and then 3 years later inherited his one-third share of the Sauzet estate.
He quickly built a reputation for high quality wines of both colours and ran the domaine with great energy and success. He is now retired, but his daughter, Lydie Alzingre, and her husband, François run the domaine from her great grandfather’s original house in Pommard. The domaine now totals 23 hectares with 13 hectares in the Macônnais and 10 in the Côte d’Or.
The harvest began on 29th August which was exactly the same day as it began in the previous year. The wines came in slightly richer than some, with alcohols between 13.5 and 14.
2023 Bourgogne Blanc
£189 IB - 12x75cl
All the fruit for this wine comes from either Puligny or Volnay, and only from the white soils of the latter which means it’s a very racy style of Bourgogne, very much in the style of the former. Drink from 2027
2023 Mâcon-Chardonnay ‘Les Busserettes’
£234 IB - 12x75cl
With the ’23s in the Macon being fresher and zippier than the ’22s due to there being more rain, this is very much in keeping with its peers in that it has good levels of acidity and vitality. Plenty of fruit behind but it is well highlighted by the drive of freshness.
Drink from 2026
2023 Meursault
£276 IB - 6x75cl
A blend of Les Forges (near to Monthélie) and Les Pellans (close to Puligny, below Meursault-Charmes) this has greener, more stone fruits on the nose but quite a weighty rich palate.
Drink from 2027
2023 Puligny-Montrachet
£276 IB - 6x75cl
£288 IB - 3x150cl
A large part of this wine comes from Enseignères (five of the seven parcels). Fresh, green fruits on the nose with appealing stoniness and then more richness and intensity in the mouth.
Drink from 2027
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Referts’
£342 IB - 6x75cl
£354 IB - 3x150cl
Two parcels of vines here, both with similar ages of around 60 years. Bordering Meursault, it shows plenty of richness and spice and a little oak sappiness.
Drink from 2028
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Canet’
£189 IB - 3x75cl
£390 IB - 3x150cl
This year, this is arguably the best wine in the cellar. Gentle spice, stone, minerals and a wonderfully precise tension that elongates the palate and adds interest and drive. Excellent wine.
Drink from 2029
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Combettes’
£225 IB - 3x75cl
This is not completely dissimilar, showing nice precision and vivacity. The oak is really well done and there is good persistence and force driving the wine forward.
Mouthwatering.
Drink from 2030
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
£630 IB - 3x75cl
Sixty-year-old vines and quite an elegant style of Bâtard. Quite dense in terms of fruit concentration but more slight in terms of power, it’s all the better for it.
Drink from 2030
Domaine
Yvon Clerget
The history books will tell you that the Clerget family’s involvement in wine in Burgundy dates back to 1268, although its more relevant history is much more recent with the domaine evolving into its current guise over just the last 70 years.
Following on from the end of the Second World War, Jean Clerget joined the family domaine and was himself joined in the early eighties by his son, Yves. Yves continued to make wine up until 2010, when he then decided to start selling all of his fruit to negociants rather than bottling it himself.
Two years later, his son Thibaud finished his wine exams in Beaune before spending a couple more years honing his winemaking skills in New Zealand and Oregon. He was now primed to return to the family domaine and reinvigorate it, which is exactly what he has done. In 2017 he released his first vintage, the 2015, and has not looked back. In 2022 he completed the addition of another five hectares of vineyards and built himself an ultra-smart new tasting room from which he could present his new cuvées.
Over the near-decade he has been making wines at the domaine, his style has evolved quite significantly. In the early days the wines were more explosive and demonstrative, as he tried to make an immediate impact, but today they feel more restrained and thoughtful. He himself recognises the change in his approach, which he dates to 2019, when he began to limit yields and adopt a more delicate approach to vinification, stopping pigeage completely. Interestingly, Thibaud has had to learn his craft amid a run of warm vintages, with six of the last seven vintages being hot and only 2021 being what might be considered a more classical vintage.
Thibaud is a follower of whole bunch but is no zealot, with some of his wines having around 50% whole bunch, but
others being completely destemmed. He has the same approach to his use of new oak, which varies enormously to the extent that he now makes a special cuvée of Clos Vougeot aged completely in wine globes, the new glass vessel of choice for the cool kids. This willingness to experiment and adapt is exciting, as it reflects a hunger and ambition to become one of the top producers in the Côte d’Or. His rapid progress and evolution suggest that ambition will soon be realised.
In 2023 Thibaud began harvesting on 5th September. He brought everything with potential alcohols of between 13.5 and 13.9. Thanks to strict pruning and also the age of many of his vines, Thibaud’s yields don’t vary from year to year in the way they do at some other domaines. Most of his wines remained at around 30 hectolitres per hectare, whilst the scrooge-like vines of Les Caillerets couldn’t bring themselves to give up more than 13!
As a range the ’23s felt very in tune with each other and very harmonious individually. There was plenty of concentration without too much power, and aromatically they showed inviting Pinot character, enhanced by judicious use of whole bunch. Thanks to an average flowering there were lots of small berries which were great for quality but didn’t enhance the already limited yields.
Please note that 2023 will be the last vintage in which Thibaud has to use his negoce label. Due to administrative issues he has had to sell his fruit from some of his vines to himself, and therefore use a different Clerget label. We have grouped them together for the purposes of this offer, as from 2024 everything will be under the Domaine Clerget label.
2023 Bourgogne Rouge
£126 IB - 6x75cl
Made from 50-year-old vines, this was 100% destemmed. Excellent phenolic ripeness and substance and plenty of old vine depth.
Drink from 2028
2023 Volnay
£246 IB - 6x75cl
This is a touch lighter and brighter than the Bourgogne with almost dainty and certainly pretty red fruit flavours. Nice restraint and good energy, and nice savoury character. Very Volnay.
Drink from 2029
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Angles’
£240 IB - 3x75cl
This vineyard lies on the Pommard side of the village but retains good Volnay character. It’s aged entirely in glass wine globes, which maximises the freshness and crunch of the juice. There is good use of whole bunch here, too, again highlighting the vibrancy of the wine.
Drink from 2031
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Brouillards’
£204 IB - 3x75cl
Brouillards sits under the Clos des Angles and borders the vineyards of Pommard. Thibaud works hard to keep the prettiness of this Cru, which can become quite structured and powerful. New oak is sparingly used, and extraction is super light.
Drink from 2031
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Carelle Sous La Chapelle’
£204 IB - 3x75cl
A miniscule cuvêe but a gorgeous one. Lush and savoury with lots of charm and no hard edges, despite a clear tannic structure. Almost hedonistic.
Drink from 2030
Domaine
Yvon Clerget
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Santenots’
£225 IB - 3x75cl
More clay with more iron here, and consequently a more robust, backward Volnay. 25% whole bunch brought a wave of welcome brightness and energy which added definition to the succulent structure. Needs time but good potential.
Drink from 2032
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Clos du Verseuil’ Monopole
£285 IB - 3x75cl
This half hectare monopole is made up of poor chalky soil with lots of stones and is responsible for creating a very classic Volnay of elegance, refinement and clear punctuation.
Drink from 2031
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Caillerets’
£315 IB - 3x75cl
Moody, sulky vines that don’t really like to produce fruit and thus yields here are close to single figures, even in a vintage perceived as generous. The vines are very old and produce a lot of small berries which is never conducive to big yields but is quite helpful when it comes to producing serious wine. This is a great mix of deep concentration and lifted, mineral undertones. Lots to come.
Drink from 2033
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Rugiens’
£342 IB - 3x75cl
This is very Pommard in style, especially coming after a series of excellent Volnays. Sometimes a Pommard made in Volnay takes on a more Volnaysien bent, but not this one. True to its origins, it’s sturdy and masculine with no apology for its youthful gruffness. It finishes well and, given time, will no doubt be impressive.
Drink from 2035
2023 Clos-de-Vougeot Grand Cru
£528 IB - 3x75cl
From the Grand Maupertuis lieu-dit. Plenty of power here, but the lusciousness of the vintage and the use of around 50% whole bunch has meant this wine has lots of charm and appeal and even a slight lightness of touch. There is still plenty of chewiness and structure, but the tannins are fine and the floral element sprinkles itself right across the wine.
Drink from 2033
Domaine Lafouge
Domaine Lafouge
Domaine de Montille
Domaine Yvon Clerget
Domaine
Launay-Horiot
This domaine dates back all the way back to the late 1700s and has a history that is both remarkably inspiring and deeply frustrating in equal measure. Mélanie Laly, armed with vineyards from her father, married Ferdinand Launay and took up résidence i at the beginning of the 19th century. Over time the domaine was extended to 11.5 hectares, with vineyards in both the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune.
In the late nineties and early noughties Xavier Horiot, Raymond Launay’s grandson, was busy doing his best impression of Tom Cruise in the French Air Force with little indication of an imminent future in the wine industry. But after an eighteen-year career in the skies, during which he was made a Knight of the Legion of Honour, he was persuaded by Raymond to swap his goggles for a pipette and take on the family business. However, internal family politics meant this would prove to be one of Xavier’s most enduring battles to date.
It took a full ten years to resolve the issues, during which time the original 11.5 hectares had been whittled down to a more artisan four! Still, Xavier’s enthusiasm was not dampened; if anything, the delay merely served to heighten his determination to succeed, and succeed he certainly has.
Xavier was in very good form when I saw him in November, relaxed and, dare I say, bubbling with confidence and enthusiasm for his ’23s. And that is despite a depressingly small harvest in ’24 when he made just 18 barrels in total from his 4 hectares. Just to give that some context, he made 70 in 2022 and 65 in 2023.
Xavier falls into the group of growers whose vines are so old that yields never reach beyond a certain level, hence he actually made less in ’23 than ’22, although some of that is a result of selling off a larger proportion of his
Pommard Perrières in bulk. A good move to ensure that he only keeps the very, very best bunches for himself. To be fair, given that those vines are over 110 years old, most of what they produce is top class anyway, but no harm in just polishing the diamond a little more.
In 2023 he began picking on 8th September. Harvest is generally quite quick for Xavier as he has so few hectares, which means everything gets picked at absolutely the optimum time. With small yields there were a lot of small berries which meant the grapes were very concentrated, both in terms of fruit but also in terms of the other components in the grapes, such as the polyphenols and the acidity. Therefore the pHs remained good with plenty of acidity in the juice, and, although the wines came in between 13.5 and 14, the various cuvées were both balanced and very classic.
In fact, the wines are great. There may only be 6 of them but what the range lacks in quantity it more than makes up for in quality.
2023 Pommard ‘Les Perrières’
£552 IB - 6x75cl
This gets a big tick to kick off the tasting. It’s just lovely and almost too easy to forget that we are in Pommard such is the lusciousness of the wine and the sophistication of the tannins. Great balance and drive and really serious for a village wine. Effortless intensity. Great value, too.
Drink from 2029
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Clos Blanc’
SOLD OUT
This is a wine worth eulogising over. Beautiful harmony, poise and control and so fluid. Lots of stones in the soil which gives great energy and mineral drive and real precision. Despite the density of fruit, this has a lovely purity and lightness of touch. Stunning.
Drink from 2030
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Chaponnières’
£444 IB - 6x75cl
This is much bigger, both structurally and in terms of fruit intensity. Very powerful and full, it’s much more backward than the previous wine and will need some time to settle and mellow. Age should be the making of it.
Drink from 2035
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Rugiens Bas’
SOLD OUT
Yet more finesse from one of Pommard’s most powerful, imposing vineyards. This is beautifully layered with such deft nuances and detail. Lots of minerals and spice and just the most gorgeous silky tannins. A stunner. Very limited.
Drink from 2033
Domaine
Launay-Horiot
2023 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
£1140 IB - 3x75cl
£2400 IB - 3x150cl
Seventy-year-old vines and just lovely elegance and poise. The gravelly soil brings distinction and flow whilst the plethora of small berries brings great intensity and volume. Very long. Very fine. I love this.
Drink from 2033
2023 Chambertin Grand Cru
SOLD OUT
This may be Chambertin, but it almost has the elegance of a Clos de Bèze. It’s so fine featured and the structure so noble and refined. Complex and layered, it’s remarkable how good this tastes given it’s potentially a fifty year wine.
Drink from 2034
Domaine Lejeune
Generally, sleeping domaines are brought back to life by the arrival of the next generation, who feel inspired to breathe much needed new life into an estate that their family has let drift aimlessly along for a number of years.
However, in the case of Domaine Lejeune, which was founded back in 1753 and is based in the heart of Pommard, the revitalisation came from outside the family in the shape of young Louis Belleroche. Louis had spent the previous 12 years honing his craft at places like HeitzLochardet and more recently at Domaine des Lambrays under the watchful eye of the brilliant Jacques Devauges. But with an investor ready to back him when needed, it was just a case of waiting for the right opportunity to come along. And last autumn it did. With the previous owner deciding to hang up his pipette, Louis was quick to jump in, recognising the enormous potential of this slumbering estate.
Walking into the domaine, one can’t help but feel the sense of potential and energy that Louis and his new team have already brought to the property in the twelve months since taking on this project. There is so much to do both in the cuverie and the vineyards, but with some great plots and lots of old vines the raw ingredients are already in place. And, judging by Louis’ first harvest, progress will be quick and dramatic.
His passionate work in the vineyards will be an ongoing labour of love which will gradually improve the quality of fruit he has to play with. But his work in the cuverie will be much more immediately felt, as we witnessed by tasting through his first vintage.
The approach of the previous incumbents to winemaking could be described as old school at best, clumsy and brutal at worst. 100% whole bunch for every
wine in every vintage, followed by a level of extraction that makes one wince. Why do just one pigeage when you can do 20 or 30 per cuvée?!
While keen to use some stems in the right conditions and in the right proportions in the future, Louis is keen to bring his fruit up to a level of quality whereby using whole bunches brings positive elements to the winemaking process. And, in terms of extraction, Louis is already working with a gentler approach to avoid extracting harsh tannins and to maximise the aromatically hedonistic nature of the wines.
His 2023s are a revelation and demonstrate just what a natural talent he has. It was not a difficult decision to offer to look after his wines exclusively in the UK, an offer he was happy to accept!
Yields were well controlled, the age of the vines initially keeping them in check, and then some de-budding took place to further reduce them (and create bigger gaps between the buds). Louis began picking on the 7th September and most wines came in at between 13 and 13.5 degrees of alcohol, and pHs looked good. The notes for the wines below are an amalgamation of three visits to the domaine between April and November, when the wines were in various stages of élévage, with the final visit seeing some wines en masse in tank and others still in barrel. This is a rare chance to get in early on the allocation ladder of something of undoubted potential. Especially so given that Louis lost 80% of his crop in 2024!
2023 Bourgogne Rouge ‘Côte d’Or’
£TBC
This is a blend of seven different parcels from around the village. There is plenty of ripe, sweet red fruits but also a lovely energy and sapidity, especially for such a humble wine. Great value.
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne Rouge ‘Les Grandes Carelles’
£120 IB - 6x75cl
This is more backward and more structured than the Côte d’Or, with more earth and iron influence. Nestled just below the village Pommards beyond Château de Pommard, it takes its influence from its neighbours and shows a substance beyond its appellation.
Drink from 2027
2023 Monthelie ‘En Remagnien’
£150 IB - 6x75cl
Monthelie is an exciting appellation that is really flourishing in these warmer climes. This vineyard lies a little further back in the valley on fairly white soil (like much of this appellation) and it displays a vibrant red-fruited, deceptively structured wine that draws its energy from its terroir inspired grip. Nicely crafted.
Drink from 2027
2023 Pommard ‘Trois Follots’
£240 IB - 6x75cl
This vineyard lies towards the rear of the village, just along from Les Rugiens. Louis has adapted the winemaking to ensure a very low level of extraction to keep it bright and full of life: he certainly succeeds. Aromatic, with no hard edges, good acidity and just enough tannic backbone to remind one of where it comes from. An excellent village wine.
Drink from 2028
New Domaine Lejeune
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Poutures’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
£315 IB - 3x150cl
We wandered up to have a look at these vines to understand more closely what Louis is looking to achieve over the next few years in the vineyards. The vineyard sits just above the Clos of the same name on the Volnay side of the village and there is certainly a nod in style to that appellation. Beautiful aromatics, that question whether Louis may have slipped in a few whole bunches on the sly. But he assured me that he hadn’t! Impressive to taste a Pommard so svelte and charming. An absolute delight.
Drink from 2031
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Argilières’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
£345 IB - 3x150cl
£250 IB - 1x300cl
This is another super premier cru, but one that sits on the other side of the village, just above Les Grands Epenots. Again, there are surprisingly floral, seductive aromatics in abundance, and it feels really quite expressive initially, before its underlying power assumes dominance and imparts a more classical Pommard character upon it. This all suggests a long life ahead of it.
Drink from 2033
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Rugiens’
£600 IB - 6x75cl
£630 IB - 3x150cl
By some way the smallest holding of the premiers crus, with just five barrels being made. Again, really quite expressive and although one wouldn’t call it dainty it was easy to admire its elegance and refinement. Lots going on and real cohesion throughout, with impressive substance and length.
Drink from 2033
Domaine
Joannès Violot-Guillemard
Pommard seems to be the place to be at the moment, with any number of young, dynamic vignerons vying to be top dog. The likes of Thibaud Clerget, Louis Belleroche (of exciting new estate, Domaine Lejeune), Xavier Horiot (who at least looks young!) and, of course, Joannès Violot-Guillemard, are exploiting the fact that, in these sunnier conditions, the appellation of Pommard is very much enjoying its halcyon days.
Joannès took over the family estate back in 2017 and has been making gentle tweaks and upgrades ever since. But the mantra here is very much evolution not revolution. Perhaps the most significant change has been the move to much greater use of whole bunch fermentation, which has certainly added another layer of complexity and nuance to the wines.
For the 2022 vintage, Joannès experimented with using a handful of ceramic vessels to age the wines alongside the more conventional barriques. It was such a success that he decided to use a lot more in 2023, and where he did this seemed to add greater freshness and precision.
I tasted the range a couple of times, at the beginning and end of November, and was mightily impressed. In fact, on revisiting, the wines gave me a feeling that is hard to put into words, but which signifies a sense of recognition that one is tasting something out of the ordinary. Joannès is clearly doing something right.
At Burgfest over the last couple of years, his wines have really shone and here again there were some stunning efforts. He began picking on the 7th September. Like some of the other Côte de Beaune reds I tasted, the wines seemed more powerful than many of their Côte
de Nuits counterparts, with the occasional wine topping the 14 degrees mark. But this is where the magic wand known as whole bunch sweeps in and tidies up any excessive substance and ripeness, bringing balance and a welcome sense of freshness to the wines.
Joannès recent brilliance is putting him in danger of having a major cult following. But given the quality of these wines, it feels well merited.
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc ‘La Foulotte’
£159 IB - 6x75cl
These vines were only planted 20 years ago when it was felt the soil would be much better suited to the production of Chardonnay. This half hectare plot sits at the top of a hill bordering Pommard on white marne so it makes sense that this is stony and citrussy with lovely drive and just a teasing hint of reduction. Lovely wine.
Drink from 2026
2023 Meursault ‘Les Vireuils’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
This parcel lies on the borders of Auxey and Monthelie to the north of the village. There is some nice reduction and some savoury aromatics from fine lees contact. Very much a modern style of Meursault, full of life and brightness.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault ‘Le Moulin Landin’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
This lesser known lieu-dit can be found just to the north of the 1er Crus, on the outskirts of the village itself. It’s a little fuller in texture and flavour than the Vireuils, but it certainly has the freshness and bite to support this richness of fruit.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault ‘Les Meix Chavaux’
£360 IB - 6x75cl
Meix Chavaux lies just a little further along the border with Auxey than Vireuils, but feels pretty close in style, being very much about the electric, lifted style of Meursault. Perhaps the most saline of all the whites this year and with a real sense of purpose driving it forward.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Joannès Violot-Guillemard
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos des Mouches’ Blanc
SOLD OUT
The vines here are rather young, having only been planted back in 2017. Planted on the higher part of the vineyard which is better suited to chardonnay, it has a crystalline quality with touches of flower, spice and stone fruit. Plenty of underlying richness and intensity, it is really rather impressive for such young vines.
Drink from 2029
Reds
2023 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Rouge ‘Maison-Dieu’
£138 IB - 6x75cl
50% whole bunch here and on the first tasting it had just been assembled and was a little subdued, but second time about a month later it was absolutely singing. Lovely fragrance, texture and grip. A lot of wine for a mere Bourgogne.
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Rouge
£159 IB - 6x75cl
There is no whole bunch on this wine, as Joannès felt it has enough natural freshness and he preferred to keep it nicely fruit driven and expressive.
Drink from 2026
2023 Volnay ‘Cros
Martin’
£276 IB - 6x75cl
This comes from 70 year old vines that lie just underneath the 1er Champans, where there is a little more clay giving the wine a degree of structure and a slightly broader character than the reputation of the appellation might suggest. Quite a grown-up Volnay that will require a little patience.
Drink from 2029
2023 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru ‘Reugne’
£276 IB - 6x75cl
This is located just where you want your Auxey Pinot to be sited, facing due south right bang in the middle of the parcel, next to the appellation’s most famous plot, Les Duresses. As temperatures in Burgundy have risen over the past couple of decades so Auxey has begun to produce some truly lovely wines. This has plenty of ripeness and depth combined with a lovely natural verve that adds punctuation and lift. Stylish and very pretty.
Drink from 2029
2023 Monthelie 1er Cru ‘Les Duresses’
£276 IB - 6x75cl
This 1er Cru sits just beyond the cru of the same name in Auxey. The soil here is perhaps a little whiter, though the vines are a fraction younger at around 50 years of age. The stonier soil gives a slightly more linear feel to the wine and plenty of lift, and for those who like their wines defined and poised this is very much for you.
Drink from 2029
2023 Pommard
£276 IB - 6x75cl
This says Pommard on the label but it very much has the finesse of a Volnay. Aromatically, it’s wonderfully fragrant and sensual and all the tannins are as svelte as one could wish for.
Drink from 2028
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Fremiers’
£522 IB - 6x75cl
Following nicely on from the village Pommard above, this also bears a strong similarity to a Volnay, which is perhaps not that surprising given it sits on the border of Volnay next to its 1er Cru of the same name. 100% whole bunch here. Such lovely harmony throughout the palate with a gorgeous silky lusciousness that completely seduces the senses. A nice touch of florality just adds another degree of complexity.
Drink from 2031
Domaine
Joannès Violot-Guillemard
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘La Platière’
SOLD OUT
Platière is split into two, with the upper part classified as village and the lower part as 1er Cru. It’s an interesting plot as the soil is stony with a limited amount of soil sitting on top of la roche mère. The vineyard was originally planted back in 1936, so many of the vines have their century in sight, although the overall average is brought down as parts have been replanted over the years. Facing due south, the vines get good exposure but at the same time the soil imparts plenty of stoniness and energy. Angular and quite fine with a core of power.
Drink from 2032
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Arvelets’
£420 IB - 6x75cl
Arvelets sits just below Platières and has a lovely, almost hedonistic feel about it, especially for a Pommard, the richer soil imparting plenty of sweet, slightly darker fruited flesh with a touch of glossiness. A very polished and appealing Pommard.
Drink from 2029
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Petits Epenots’
£552 IB - 6x75cl
£594 IB - 3x150cl
£415 IB - 1x300cl
This is made very much in the style of proper Pommard and yet, once again, the structure and tannins are very silky and refined. The southeast facing vines are now 70 years old, and bring natural depth and power to the wine, which allows Joannès to keep the extraction as low as he possibly dare.
Drink from 2032
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Les Rugiens’
£576 IB - 6x75cl
£624 IB - 3x150cl
£435 IB - 1x300cl
This is a big old party, aged in mainly new oak, but Joannès has put a proportion into his ceramic eggs which gives a totally different vibe to the wine. Together the blend looks like it might be exceptional: the old vines’ gaminess combining perfectly with precise purity of the more lifted ‘ceramic juice’. A very fine example.
Drink from 2032
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Les Brouillards’
£420 IB - 6x75cl
Fifty-year-old vines and 100% whole bunch. This parcel used to be farmed by Bichot, who were also working organically, so when Joannés took it on the vines were in good shape. It borders Pommard and there is a fair bit of clay in the soil which provides plenty of structure and substance. If some of the Pommards are Volnaysien in style, this is more Pommardien and it will need a fair amount of time to reach its peak.
Drink from 2033
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos des Mouches’ Rouge SOLD OUT
This is looking really good, proving once again that there is life outside the Drouhin version. 100% whole bunch with 50% aged in ceramics, bringing a purity and lithe energy to the earthy, red fruits that fill the glass. In fact, the whole wine is bursting with vitality, whilst enjoying the natural intensity of the old vine fruit.
Drink from 2030
2023 Corton Grand Cru ‘Le Clos du Roi’
£720 IB - 6x75cl
If you think Corton is brash and rustic then look away now, as this version has a lovely nobility with bright lifted fruit and real persistence on the finish. Fine featured and compact, this might really be fit for a king.
Drink from 2030
Domaine Rapet
The Rapet family have been farming vineyards in and around Pernand-Vergelesses for many generations. Indeed, one of the family’s most prized possessions is a silver tastevin that dates back to 1765.
Today Vincent and his son, Robin, run the 20-hectare domaine together with great vigour and enthusiasm. Based in the heart of the village, they have some excellent plots across the northerly vineyards of the Côte de Beaune, plus a great big parcel of CortonCharlemagne.
Stylistically, the wines are understated and only lightly extracted, with very gentle use of new oak. Most of the reds have some whole bunch but, again, it’s judiciously used.
The 2023s were an impressive set of wines, with vineyard-definition the order of the day. While the grands crus undoubtedly showed their breeding, don’t overlook the premiers crus, here, which offer impressive value for money.
Whites
2023 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘En Caradeux’
£228 IB - 6x75cl
This the first of two white Pernands which bear more than a passing resemblance to Corton-Charlemagne, although they both cost a fraction of the price. This first wine sits on the eastfacing slope directly opposite the grand cru. It has the perfect balance of richness and sapidity, with a lovely pure texture and weight of fruit. It finishes long and mouthwatering.
Drink from 2027
2023 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘Sous Frétille’
£240 IB - 6x75cl
£252 IB - 3x150cl
£175 IB - 1x300cl
Sous Frétille is at the top of the slope where there is very little soil and the mother rock lies just below the surface. The vines are 60 years old and bring a lovely stony minerality to the wine. Good matter and dry extract. Very promising. Like last year we couldn’t decide between the two so we have bought them both!
Drink from 2028
2023 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
£690 IB - 6x75cl
£702 IB - 3x150cl
In total there are three hectares of Corton-Charlemagne spread across eight different parcels. Some of the juice is aged in old barriques, some in new, some in ceramic eggs, some in amphora. This mix of vessels helps add complexity to the clearly concentrated yet racy juice which has deceptive stuffing beyond the mineral bite. One of the cheapest Corton Charlies around.
Drink from 2030
Reds
2023 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru ‘Aux Fournaux’
£189 IB - 6x75cl
The premier cru part of Fournaux lies right next to the village part, but it’s easy to understand the difference in classification such is the increased level of concentration and the enhanced sophistication of tannins. 30% whole bunch gives the juicy fruit a lovely, streamlined middle. Very good value.
Drink from 2029
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Cent Vignes’
£240 IB - 6x75cl
£252 IB - 3x150cl
The Rapets make four Beaune premiers crus, and this year we have decided to offer just our favourite two. The vines here are 70 years old, and there is plenty of gentle tannic structure which adds grip and energy. Lots going on and really nice length.
Drink from 2029
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Grèves’
£276 IB - 6x75cl
The vines here are about the same age and the third whole bunch adds a lovely floral element. There is perhaps greater structure and the wine is certainly a little more backward and compact. Needs time but no hard edges. Good potential.
Drink from 2030
2023 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘Ile de Vergelesses’
£276 IB - 6x75cl
£288 IB - 3x150cl
There is something about the Ile des Vergelesses that just lifts it above its peer Les Vergelesses. The vineyard is on a steeper slope with plenty of limestone in the soil and the mother rock just below. Both give the wine real vitality and a mineral edge that really projects the intensity of the fruit and the complexity of the terroir. Stylish and very cohesive.
Drink from 2030
2023 Corton Grand Cru
£480 IB - 6x75cl
£498 IB - 3x150cl
More old vines here, having been replanted in 1966. This has embraced the flesh and juiciness of the vintage which can only be a good thing in this appellation. Quite structured and youthful but nicely balanced.
Drink from 2030
Domaine Launay-Horiot
Domaine Rapet
Domaine Rapet
Côte de Nuits
Nuits-Saint-Georges
Meuilley
Vosne-Romanée
Gilly-lès-Cîteaux
Chambolle-Musigny
Morey-Saint-Denis
Gevrey-Chambertin
Fixin
Marsannay
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Domaine
du Clos Frantin
The Bichot family have been in Burgundy, and more specifically in Beaune, for several generations, establishing themselves as one of the finest sources of wine in the region. But it has really been since Albéric Bichot took over the reins of the Company towards the end of the last century that they have moved themselves stealthily up to the top of the hierarchy of the various domaine / négociant hybrids that hold significant status in the region.
They own a large number of vineyards spread across most of Burgundy, and run each of six domaines as autonomous entities, each with their own winemaker, albeit overseen by a head winemaker who until 2022 was Alain Serveau, and since 2023 has been Matthieu Mangenot, who previously worked at Domaine LongDepaquit.
Based in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Clos Frantin is a 7.3 hectare domaine, that’s blessed with some fantastic vineyards, more than half of which are premiers and grands crus. It has been farmed organically since 2012 and in recent years has really upped its game.
The harvest began at Clos Frantin on 9th September.
2023 Vosne-Romanée
£372 IB - 6x75cl
£390 IB - 3x150cl
This is very much the pick of the three villages of Nuits, Gevrey and Vosne. It has that nice mix of depth and lift with good detail and a certain assurance that one often finds in Vosne. Nicely done.
Drink from 2029
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Rouges’
£810 IB - 6x75cl
This lesser known, tiny vineyard is sort of split into two as part of Echezeaux uses this lieu dit. Above that is the premier cru, which lies just along from En Orveaux. It’s a very limpid style of Vosne with good transparency and drive, rather than broad and rich. Very fine and very much on the cool red fruit spectrum.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Malconsorts’
£990 IB - 6x75cl
£1005 IB - 3x150cl
£735 IB - 1x300cl
£1485 IB - 1x600cl
With 1.75 hectares in the stable this is an important holding for the domaine. There is a lovely inky purity on the nose which feeds into the palate. It has a certain linear quality, with the extra fruit of the vintage taming the powerful structure somewhat and giving it that linearity. Good layers and depth and length. Promising.
Drink from 2031
2023 Clos-de-Vougeot Grand Cru
£1080 IB - 6x75cl
£1095 IB - 3x150cl
£800 IB - 1x300cl
With 0.6 of a hectare, this is a pretty classical Clos Vougeot, showing a fairly structured, uncompromising approach, although the finish is finer featured and reins things back in a touch. Chewy and leathery with very good potential for ageing.
Drink from 2034
2023 Echezeaux Grand Cru
£1200 IB - 6x75cl
£1230 IB - 3x150cl
£875 IB - 1x300cl
There is a whole hectare of Echezeaux in the Clos Frantin domaine which, in a vintage like 2023, when the appellation has excelled, is really great news. The fruit is slight darker, but very much in the blueberries or blackberries and cream mould where the ripeness is right on the money. The soil is sandier so although there is plenty of weight, the structure has a little more finesse and the tannins are seamless and silky.
Drink from 2032
2023 Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
£750 IB - 3x75cl
£1530 IB - 3x150cl
£1075 IB - 1x300cl
This doesn’t really fall into the category of shrinking violet. It’s an immense wine of huge structure and weight of fruit, which is, perhaps, the darkest to date. One gets the impression that there are lots of small berries here as the wine is so powerful and all encompassing. A slightly ageist wine in the sense that it is not worth buying it beyond a certain age as you’ll never get to drink it at its best!
Drink from 2037
2023 Richebourg Grand Cru
£1995 IB - 3x75cl
£4020 IB - 3x150cl
£2750 IB - 1x300cl
The first of two Grands Crus of contrasting styles. This is the more floral and delicate of the two, with more detail, elegance and nuance.
Drink from 2033
2023 Chambertin Grand Cru
£1320 IB - 3x75cl
£2670 IB - 3x150cl
£1830 IB - 1x300cl
This is a more imposing and more structured wine with a certain gruffness that will evaporate over time, but which dominates through its structure and power currently.
Drink from 2035
Domaine Henri
Gouges
The bustling village of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the gateway to the Côte de Nuits, and the Gouges family name have been intrinsically linked since the end of the First World War, when Henri returned to his birthplace to begin his new life as a vigneron. Throughout the 1920s, he focused his attention on buying vineyards, including some vines in the village’s signature cru of Les Saint Georges. On the back of the phylloxera crisis and the war itself, prices were at a level that would make today’s young generation of winemakers cry into their pains au chocolat, and Henri made the most of this rare opportunity.
Over the years that followed, Henri became a key figure in the evolution of domaine- bottled wine and was a major influence in the ratification of the appellations and their crus throughout the 1930s. Showing a level of integrity that today’s politicians would do well to aspire to, he pushed for Les St Georges to remain a premier cru, despite his recent purchase of vines there.
He was succeeded by his two sons, Marcel and Michel, who continued to acquire land and who undertook important replanting of many of the domaine’s existing plots. Consequently, the 1960s and ‘70s were a testing time: a string of indifferent vintages, compounding the effect of newly planted vines. But the vines aged and Marcel and Michel’s eldest sons, Pierre and Christian respectively, joined their fathers at the domaine. Pierre was primarily responsible for the vineyards, while Christian was more active in the cuverie. Their talent and work ethic took the wines to a new level and their travel took their wines to new markets, ensuring that globally Gouges became the first port of call for anyone interested in Nuits-Saint-Georges.
The arrival of a new century brought with it another generational change with Pierre’s son, Gregory, coming on board in 2003. Then, in 2007, they built a spacious, gravity-fed cuverie, allowing for gentler handling of the fruit. A year later the domaine began farming organically, which provided a higher quality, more phenolically ripe raw material with which to work their magic. In 2011 Greg’s cousin, Antoine, another of Marcel’s grandchildren, joined the domaine, maintaining its strong sense of family and consistency of style.
On top of this, the change in the climate has had a profound effect on the wines of Nuits, perhaps more so than any other village in the Côte de Nuits. In the right hands the wines have become purer and more nuanced with enhanced levels of sophistication and complexity without any compromise to their longevity.
The team here are really happy with 2023. They began harvesting on the 10th September, allowing the bunches to reach full phenolic ripeness without adversely affecting the levels of alcohol and the wines’ pHs, both of which are a little lower than in 2022. The result is wines with a degree of classicism and a real focus on red fruits rather than anything darker. The tannic structure is nicely cohesive and enhances the precision and definition inspired by the slightly lower pHs. The wines are not quite as massive and backward as many of the 2020s, but their freshness and natural Nuits power will instil plenty of longevity into the wines.
Whites
2023 Montagny 1er Cru (Domaine Cavea)
£144 IB - 6x75cl
In 2022 Greg and Antoine bought most of the highly regarded estate of Domaine Stéphane Aladame in Montagny and created a new domaine with the seven hectares that they had acquired. In time, there will be various different single vineyard wines, but for now there is just this blended premier cru. This has a nice compact feel with good levels of extract and plenty of energy and purity. It will also drink pretty well from the off. Drink from 2029
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Blanc
£117 IB - 6x75cl
Plenty of natural Pinot Blanc richness, but a nice steely edge beneath the surface which gives focus and length.
This is the original vineyard where the mutated grapes were found way back when, and, coincidentally and fortuitously, the chalky soil suits white wine really well. Steely, stony mineral qualities jump from the glass and give a great energy to the rich palate.
Drink from 2028
Reds
2023 Hautes-Côtes de Nuits ‘Dames Huguette’
£TBC
This is really excellent, punching way above its pay grade. It’s from one of the best sites up in the Hautes Côtes in a vintage in which the whole area has excelled. Much more juiciness that is normally associated with the Hautes-Côtes, but very much brought alive by the natural vivacity of the wines from up there. Drink from 2026
Domaine Henri Gouges
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges
£237 IB - 6x75cl
This is a little more backward than the previous wine with more conspicuous structure and tannin, though the tannins are ripe and well coated. I recently tasted the 1995 version of this wine, which after 29 years was still looking really good with plenty of vigour. This must be at least as good given the subsequent evolution of the domaine and the quality of the vintage.
Drink from 2028
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Chaignots’
£330 IB - 3x75cl
This is an unusual wine for the Gouges in that it comes from the Vosne side of the appellation and not from south of the village where the majority of their vines are. It’s a slighter lighter, brighter style with good energy and some quite delicate tannins. Refreshing and well defined.
Drink from 2029
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Clos des Porrets-St-Georges’
£288 IB - 6x75cl
£300 IB - 3x150cl
This is by far the biggest holding at the domaine with over four hectares of this monopole in their ownership. It tends to mellow into quite a fine-featured Nuits of medium weight but for the moment there is plenty of richness and weight of fruit. But the structure is reasonably light and balanced and its future looks both long and stylish.
Drink from 2030
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Pruliers’
£444 IB - 6x75cl
£462 IB - 3x150cl
This is a gorgeous mix of lifted, fine-boned fruit and beautiful, aromatic intensity. The structure is very much present, but the tannins are lush and the fruit is perfectly wrapped around it. Exciting and very promising.
Drink from 2030
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Vaucrains’
£300 IB - 3x75cl
£624 IB - 3x150cl
Vaucrains lives slightly in the shadow of the trophy cru that is Les St-Georges. Yet it consistently produces brilliant Nuits of real density. In the cooler vintages that characterised the ’60s and ’70s, the wines from Vaucrains would need at least 20 years before the fruit would override the structure and tannins but, now with greater phenolic ripeness thanks to climate change, it is capable of reaching great heights and much sooner, too. This is a perfect example, whereby the structure is purely positive adding grip and focus to the huge weight of fruit. Serious kit.
By comparison the structure here feels lighter, or at least well hidden by the weight of fruit. It almost feels like it is has more finesse, but that possibly underestimates its power and potential. It is certainly quite backward but feels very harmonious and together and merely in need of time.
Drink from 2035
Thibault Liger-Belair
This is quite a new estate, especially compared with others in this offer, but the history of Thibault’s family in wine, direct or otherwise, is quite layered and complex, dating back 300 years! But jumping three centuries of different generations, we arrive in 2001 and find a young but highly driven Thibault taking back various family parcels that had been contracted to other local vignerons. As well as buying some extra selective parcels, he also set up a négoce business in 2003 and entered into some contracts of his own to buy grapes, often from old vines.
Success came quickly and easily, although he worked hard to achieve it. In 2008 he bought vineyards in Moulin à Vent. He farms biodynamically and works in similar fashion in the cuverie. He is not afraid of new oak and chooses the trees from which his barrels are made. He is an advocate of whole bunch, too, though he varies it enormously, being dictated to by either the vintage or the parcel (or both) rather than the other way around. He even recently designed his own stainless-steel vats so they would have the right natural flow of juice within them.
In much the same way as Cyprien Arlaud’s wines have gained in precision and finesse since changing to biodynamic farming, so have Thibault’s. They still have plenty of fruit, but the quality of tannins and the lacey details of the wines have become more pronounced. These are really lovely wines, and as engaging and charming as Thibault himself.
With Thibault being pulled all over the world by demanding customers (like us!) winemaker/oeneologist Anne-Sophie Bigot is really having to step to the plate and show her true mettle in the cellars. In some ways, she is Didier Deschamps to Thibault’s Zinedine Zidane, her
precise and strict approach the ideal facilitator for his great flourishes of flair.
I thought the 2022s were the best wines ever made in these cellars, and now, with these excellent ’23s following closely on, this duo are forging a partnership that will take the estate to new heights.
2023 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes
£120 IB - 6x75cl
This range of Beaujolais are arguably the finest Thibault has made to date. The vines are generally worked biodynamically, but only certified up to organic level. The minimum age of the vines in this cuvée is 60 years and there is around 40% whole bunch here. The tannins are lush and integrated whilst the fruit has that distinctive old vine intensity. It’s very harmonious, assured and just damned nice.
Drink from 2029
2023 Moulin à Vent ‘La Roche’
£TBC
The soil here is granite and the resulting wine is one of uncoiled tension and energy. Lovely definition of fruit, too, and the sense that the wine is really alive and buoyant.
Drink from 2030
2023 Moulin à Vent ‘Champ de Cour’
£TBC
Deeper soil here and a warmer site though there is plenty of pink and blue granite, too, adding balance and precision. Lots of weight and power but a little more whole bunch just to freshen things up a touch. Works well.
Drink from 2030
2023 Bourgogne ‘Les Grands Chaillots’
£123 IB - 6x75cl
This is a mix of fruit from different parcels dotted around the area, with vineyards both in Premeaux, just south of Nuits, and Chambolle (two-thirds of the cuvée). The fruit from the latter gives a lush, ripe body, whilst that from Prémeaux adds a little gentle focus. This will likely drink fairly early.
Drink from 2027
Thibault Liger-Belair
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
‘Le Clos du Prieuré’
£TBC
Another cracking 2023 Hautes-Côtes. This one comes from a vineyard at 400 metres altitude with very white soil which give the wine lift and definition. Lovely vigour.
Drink from 2028
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
‘La Corvée de Villy’
£138 IB - 6x75cl
This is quite a gentle, pretty style of Hautes-Côtes with a certain restraint and an emphasis very much on bright, expressive red fruits.
Drink from 2027
2023 Côtes de Nuits-Villages
‘Au Leury - Vignes de 1937’
£195 IB - 6x75cl
£213 IB - 3x150cl
This 85 year old vineyard lies next to Freddie Mugnier’s much heralded Clos de la Maréchale in Prémeaux. Old vines concentration re-invigorated by a little whole bunch.
Impressive example.
Drink from 2027
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘La Charmotte’
£315 IB - 6x75cl
Old vines planted to the north of the village on the Vosne side. This is very fragrant, lush and sensual.
Drink from 2029
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Les Belles Croix’
£315 IB - 6x75cl
£339 IB - 3x150cl
More clay in the soil here and more classically Nuits with more overt structure, although the tannins are fine and well rounded. The extraction was light, what Anne-Sophie described as ‘Bijou Pijou’ (small pigeage!) which kept the prettiness of the wine intact.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
£492 IB - 6x75cl
£516 IB - 3x150cl
Five different parcels all planted around 70 years ago, from different expositions and different soils, so there is a really positive blend of juice and styles in the wine. It needs a little more time to marry perfectly but it shows good potential.
Drink from 2030
2023 Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Beaux Bruns’
£516 IB - 6x75cl
£564 IB - 3x150cl
A limestone rich soil has helped craft a wine of real prettiness and fragrance, as well as some delicacy. Poised and very harmonious.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Fouchères’
£516 IB - 6x75cl
£564 IB - 3x150cl
This is even more aromatic, some strong floral tones, implying some use of whole bunch. Bright and pure with a very classically Chambolle framework.
Drink from 2029
Thibault Liger-Belair
2023 Vosne-Romanée ‘Aux Réas’
£492 IB - 6x75cl
A clear contrast with the two Chambolles above, being much more searingly linear and tight thanks to the dominance of limestone in the soil. Structured and sappy in proportion with the fruit and the minerality of the wine.
Lots of finesse, especially for a Les St-Georges that probably has thirty years ahead of it. The tannins are as present as ever but are perhaps a little lusher than usual. Lots going on and lots to come, too.
Drink from 2032
2023 Corton Grand Cru ‘Les Renardes’
£798 IB - 6x75cl
I find so many Cortons just too rustic and brambly for my taste which is why it’s always a real pleasure to taste one that isn’t! The tannins here are balanced and harmonious and the mid palate fruit is ripe and well defined. The whole bunch adds interest, too.
Drink from 2030
2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
£600 IB - 3x75cl
£1290 IB - 3x150cl
From the Violettes part of the Clos where the vines are 80 years old. Good use of whole bunch here adding fragrance and lift and it all feels very measured and driven. Refined example.
Drink from 2031
2023 Richebourg Grand Cru
£1980 IB - 3x75cl
£4320 IB - 3x150cl
25% whole bunch here. Lots of elements and details to this very fine wine. The vines are in their nineties and there is all the intensity one would want from such old vines. Mineral. Precise, layered and very long. Lovely stuff.
Drink from 2032
Thibault Liger-Belair
Domaine Henri Gouges
Domaine
Jean-Marc Millot
The history of the Domaine dates back to 1930. André Millot married Elisabeth Gilles, daughter of Henri and Hilda Gilles who bequeathed her various vineyards in Savigny-lès-Beaune and the Côte de Nuits (classified as Bourgogne and Côte de Nuits-Villages). They had a son called Jean-Marc (Millot) who married Christine Gouroux, whose mother, Odile Moissenet was the daughter of Henri and Yvonne Gouroux who were the owners of some fantastic vineyards in the smart part of the Côte de Nuits that included some Vosne-Romanée, some Vosne Premier Cru Les Suchots and three Grands Crus (Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux).
Jean-Marc made his first wines in the early eighties, but the vineyard parcels from the various family members did not come together until the 1990s, after a long legal battle following the end of fermage to another domaine.
Today the domaine stands at eight hectares with all vines between 50 and 80 years old. It has been based in Nuits-Saint-Georges since 2003, when Jean-Marc bought a new cuverie in order to cope with the doubling in size of the estate and it is Jean-Marc’s ambitious daughter Alix, who is now at the helm having made her first ‘solo’ vintage in 2016. It is a domaine on a very upward trajectory with Alix being part of the new generation of talented agile winemakers who are keeping Burgundy fresh and dynamic. She is not averse to using whole bunch and likes to keep sulphur levels as low as she can. In the vineyards she farms as organically as possible, not using pesticides or insecticides, but the domaine is not currently certified.
Alix Millot, expecting her second child in the new year, has just delivered some excellent ’23s to the world as well. Starting the harvest on 7th September, the wines have enhanced ripeness from the warmth of the vintage, but still plenty of bite and drive from her work in the vineyards and her choice of picking dates. She has also used whole bunch very expertly, not over dominating the wines but just adding a frisson of freshness and crunch.
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
£102 IB - 6x75cl
From Les Boulardes in Comblanchien, just south of Nuits, fleshy and full of fruit, a touch more so than usual, with the tannins lusher and more approachable. Very good value.
Drink from 2027
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages Vieilles Vignes
£150 IB - 6x75cl
From the parcels of Vignettes and Les Essards whose vines are at least 50 years old. The former, which makes up the majority of the holding, brings finesse to the blend, whilst the latter adds richness and body. It’s very pretty, even in this vintage of richesse, and really rather delicious.
Drink from 2027
2023 Savigny-lès-Beaune
£165 IB - 6x75cl
Three parcels go into this blend which has really benefited from the extra ripeness of this vintage. No hard edges and consequently really quite accessible and expressive. Lots of juicy red fruits.
Drink from 2027
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages ‘Les Faulques’
£168 IB - 6x75cl
This is quite a different animal to the Vieilles Vignes cuvée, being much more powerful and serious. The fruit is darker and earthier but the tannins are very well integrated and there is extra freshness from the 30% whole bunch. Needs time but impressive for its level.
Drink from 2029
Domaine
Jean-Marc Millot
2023 Vosne-Romanée
£372 IB - 6x75cl
A blend of Violette and Hautes Maizières which each bring their own personalities to the table. The former, which lies next to Clos Vougeot, bring some weight and structure, whilst the fruit from the latter is more aromatic and refined and brings energy and length. Together they make a very complete village wine of intensity and interest.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’
£360 IB - 3x75cl
£750 IB - 3x150cl
What a lovely wine, full of aromatic charm and silkily-textured fruit. Bright, focussed and really delicious.
Drink from 2031
2023 Echezeaux Grand Cru
£456 IB - 3x75cl
£930 IB - 3x150cl
Three different plots find their way into this Echezeaux; the confusingly named Clos St-Denis, Echezeaux du Dessus and Les Poulaillères, giving it a very complete and complex feel. 30% whole bunch here which is just right to add some extra lift and precision. Like the appellation generally in ’23 this is very fine featured and energised with beautiful purity and detail. Very saline. Lovely: we drank a 2017 Echezeaux in l’Expression in Beaune this autumn over a very large chicken and it was sublime. This promises to be even better in time.
Drink from 2032
2023 Clos-de-Vougeot Grand Cru ‘Grand Maupertui’
£456 IB - 3x75cl
£930 IB - 3x150cl
From the Grand Maupertuis part of the Clos which is just under Grands-Echezeaux. Unsurprisingly, this has a lot of stuffing and unresolved power with a hefty pair of shoulders on it. This is quite different from some of the more fragrant examples that have emerged over the last few years and is very much from the old school of needing time. But, everything is in balance and the tannins are well incorporated, so it should emerge from its cocoon, if not as a butterfly at least as a very impressive wine.
Drink from 2035
2023 Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
£810 IB - 3x75cl
Like the normal Echezeaux, this also sees 30% whole bunch and also like that wine Alix has got the amount spot on. The fruit is darker, but there are also more stones in the soil here and so the wine is very finely structured and quite mineral underneath this density of fruit. It’s a mesmerising combination. Lithe and buxom at the same time. Something for everyone.
Drink from 2035
Domaine
Tawse
The history of this domaine is an interesting one and much of it is recent. In 1985 Canadian Pascal Marchand became winemaker at Domaine Comte Armand at just 22 years of age, with a strong desire to farm organically and, if possible, biodynamically.
He left in 1999 to join the Boisset group where he stayed until 2005 during which time he helped convert the majority of the group’s vineyards around the world to biodynamics. He then left to pursue other négociant opportunities until he joined up with fellow Canadian Moray Tawse in 2011.
From under the noses of more famous figures they contrived to snap up the 4 hectares of Domaine Maume, who had some great vineyards mainly in GevreyChambertin. Alongside these domaine wines Pascal continued to evolve his négociant business under the label of Marchand Tawse, as opposed to the Domaine Tawse name he was using for the domaine vineyards.
Talented Englishman, Mark Fincham, who had made wines in the Rhône at Domaine du Pégau for years, was signed up to make the wines and is clearly something of a humble genius as the wines he has been making are stunning. Mark’s input and the move to a biodynamic approach have taken a few vintages to truly make a significant difference, but over the last three or four the progression has really started to become obvious and critics and collectors alike are starting to sit up and take note.
We are lucky enough to have an allocation of mainly domaine wines. In terms of vinification Mark is not averse to the use of whole bunches but is not dogmatic
about it, varying their use significantly depending upon the individual cuvée. He has a lot of very old vines to play with which probably encourages him to use whole bunches where possible.
Considering he was coming off the back of one of the most stressful and draining vintages of recent times, winemaker Mark Fincham seemed very relaxed and content when I dropped by to assess his ’23s early on during my trip. In fact, it was one of the first important domaines in the Côte de Nuits that I had tasted at that point, and I felt it would be a good guide to the quality of wines that I would be tasting over the weeks to follow.
It was always going to be a tough ask for Mark to improve on his sensational ’22s. However, he has gone mighty close and there are some real gems in amongst his ’23s. He began harvesting around the 11th September which was later than some, but everything in the cellar was between 12.6 and 13.2 and as a range the wines were incredibly refined and elegant. Perhaps the rain that fell on the 12th September just helped freshen up the grapes.
He used a little less whole bunch than usual, feeling that the wines were fresh enough anyway and he didn’t want to raise the pHs any higher. Whatever the reasoning, he made the right calls as this was an exquisite range of wines that really showed the potential of the vintage.
Whites
2023 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Champ Gain’
£510 IB - 6x75cl
The vines here were picked quite a few days before the reds on the 6th and the wine is wonderfully stony and energetic with the minerality of the soil providing a real crackle of electricity all the way through the palate.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
1er Cru ‘Abbaye de Morgeot’
£504 IB - 6x75cl
In this part of Morgeot there is much more limestone than there is in most of the vineyard, and it really shows in the mouth. The steeliness sits nicely with the richesse of the appellation.
Drink from 2027
Reds
2023 Bourgogne Rouge ‘Vigne Blanche’
£123 IB - 6x75cl
This is an interesting parcel as a good chunk of it used to be classified as village wine. Great intensity and poise for a wine at this level. It really makes one wonder why the reclassification occurred: perhaps because it was prone to frost. Lots of wine for the money.
Drink from 2027
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Clos du Roi’
£222 IB - 6x75cl
£234 IB - 3x150cl
Like the Bourgogne above, everything here was destemmed. There is more structure and depth in the wine, but with the vines towards the top of the slope it has an admirable linearity which gives it fantastic focus and poise. Plenty to come and lovely nobility.
Drink from 2028
Domaine Tawse
2023 Beaune 1er Cru ‘Teurons’
£240 IB - 6x75cl
This is much more reticent, not bigger, though there is a higher proportion of clay in the soil, just more reserved and less expressive at this stage of its life. But the balance is very good and everything is in proportion.
Drink from 2029
2023 Volnay 1er Cru ‘Frémiets’
£360 IB - 6x75cl
Lying on the border of Pommard, mirroring its 1er Cru of the same name, this is really quite backward and structured. Yet it still has a very cultured freshness which elongates the flavours and gives it a stylish sense of purpose.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
£270 IB - 6x75cl
The fruit from seven different parcels finds its way into this excellent cuvée. 20% whole bunch helps gives it a gorgeously intoxicating succulence, with just enough crunch and bite to keep it vibrant and refined. Lovely wine.
Drink from 2028
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Aux Etelois’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
£318 IB - 3x150cl
Officially, this may only be a village wine, but the vineyard is an extension of the Grand Cru of Griotte-Chambertin and in quality it’s anything but a village wine. The soil is perhaps a little richer here and the fruit is certainly a little darker than that of the straight village wine, but as well as more weight and power there is also an elegance and refinement of tannin that exemplify the character of the Grand Cru. Lots to really like here and will only get better and better.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘En Pallud’
£276 IB - 6x75cl
This small vineyard sits just below the Grand Cru of MazisChambertin. The vines here are very old and yields were consequently quite small which meant that full maturation was reached easily. In fact this cuvée ended up having the highest degrees of the whole range, though still only 13.6. It’s quite a brooding, slightly darker-fruited wine that needs time. It is layered, concentrated and really rather substantial, especially so for a village wine. Excellent potential.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Champeaux’
£510 IB - 6x75cl
£522 IB - 3x150cl
£360 IB - 1x300cl
Often I find that the Lavaux St-Jacques is the must have 1er Cru at this address, but this year this Cru was so brilliant that it was a tough call to make. 20% whole bunch results in beautiful aromatics of great purity and fragrance. Poised, energetic, silkily-textured and deliciously balanced.
The day I tasted, this was really quite sulky and reserved. Yet Mark was quick to make the point that a month earlier it had been one of the standout wines in the cellar. So, given its pedigree and how stunning it usually is, I am very happy to give it to the benefit of the doubt. Many of the vines are almost 100 years old and the coolness of the site and a sunny vintage like this one makes for a great combination. In all likelihood, this is a very serious wine in the making. As always, very limited volumes.
Drink from 2031
Domaine Tawse
2023 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
£552 IB - 3x75cl
£1140 IB - 3x150cl
A terrific wine of real class and poise. 40% whole bunch gives it a lovely aromatic profile with cool, floral fruit flavours and a genuine sense of delicatesse which runs through the controlled, elegant palate and evolves into a long, lingering finish. Plenty of well disguised structure to give it longevity, too.
Serious stuff.
Drink from 2031
2023 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
£630 IB - 3x75cl
£1320 IB - 3x150cl
£900 IB - 1x300cl
Yet more old vines here with some dating back almost 100 years. This is more compact than the wine above and very much a wine that gathers pace in the mouth. Layered, complex, discreetly powerful and really quite serious. A classical Gevrey of enormous scope.
Drink from 2032
2023 Musigny Grand Cru
£2700 IB - 3x75cl
I’d like to tell you that we have ten barrels of this and everyone who wants some can have a six pack, but even in this more plentiful vintage that would be considered a misleading statement, even by a modern-day politician. For what it’s worth, this is a pretty faultless wine. Drink it if you get the chance, and please invite me along when you do!
Drink from 2032
Nicolas Faure
There’s a little bit of paneling in Nicolas Faure’s garage, with all his harvest dates marked out in chalk going back to his first ever vintage in 2011, when he embarked on this exciting venture. It’s a symbolic image as this estate is about as artisan and as rarefied as is possible. Below the garage and indeed below his house, too, where he lives with his growing family, Nicolas has a compact and bijou cellar, in which he houses the handful of barrels containing his precious bounty.
Between 2006 and 2015 he gained valuable experience working at domaines in Burgundy, the Rhône Valley and New Zealand, culminating in a spell at a small domaine in Vosne-Romanée called DRC. Whilst there, he began on his side project, acquiring a nice plot of Nuits-SaintGeorges (Herbues) to the north of the village, on the Vosne side. He bottled around three barrels of 2011 under his own label, and was up and running.
Over the next couple of years, he found some other small, interesting parcels, which he integrated into his portfolio from 2013. He now produces around 6000 bottles annually, nature permitting! Although with some of his vineyards he only produces one barrel, which is not much for the entire world! He farms organically and uses minimal sulphur, but it would be wrong to categorise these as natural wines in the modern vernacular, though they experience only minimal intervention. All the reds are 100% whole bunch.
He has quickly built up a strong global following for his wines, which are almost impossible to find on the market. He has no real plans to expand significantly, so that is unlikely to change. We appreciate how lucky we are to get to distribute his wines here in the UK.
Married to Amélie Berthaut of Domaine BerthautGerbet, he now works at her domaine in Fixin most of the
time, and one imagines well into the evenings on his own wines back at the family home in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. His wines are very easy to love, and he is always interesting to listen to, his passion for his métier seeping from his pores. Inquisitive and questioning, he is always keen to push boundaries and last year, for the first time, I got to taste his new Riesling, of which 2022 was the inaugural vintage.
In 2023 Nicolas began harvesting his whites on the 30th August, and even picked his Aligoté before he started on his reds, which never happens. But he was keen to preserve the bite in his whites and get the necessary phenolic ripeness in his reds. pHs stayed nice and low so he certainly achieved the former, whilst the reds are juicy and delicious with a lively dose of whole bunch igniting their core.
Whites
2023 Riesling Vin de France
£390 IB - 12x75cl
Almost no-one has planted Riesling in Burgundy, but 2022 saw the first vintage of these recently planted babies which show impressive varietal character, accentuated by being aged in 100% stainless steel.
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes de Beaune ‘La Corvée de Bully’ Blanc
£390 IB - 12x75cl
This Pinot Blanc was planted back in 2015 right next to the Aligoté below. There is 80% Chardonnay and only 20% Pinot Blanc, yet the latter seems more dominant, certainly texturally.
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté ‘La Corvée de Bully’
£462 IB - 12x75cl
These vines are only 110 years old so in Aligoté terms old, but not ancient! There is a nice compact dry extract that vies for supremacy with the stones and green fruit. Good matière and plenty of bite.
Drink from 2026
2023 Pernand-Vergelesses ‘Vignes Blanches’
£390 IB - 12x75cl
This is the first vintage of this wine, the vines having been planted in 2021. The vineyard is just next to Combottes. The oak adds a little grip and freshness interestingly, though the wine is pretty zippy anyway.
Drink from 2026
Nicolas Faure Reds
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Noir ‘Aux Argillières’
£462 IB - 12x75cl
This is the last vintage of this wine chez Nicolas as he has pulled up the vines, even though they were only planted as recently as 1982. Lots of whole bunch character giving a deliciously juicy mouthfeel and bite.
Drink from 2027
2023 Aloxe-Corton
£660 IB - 12x75cl
If anyone is going to offset the rusticity of Aloxe, then it is Nicolas. There are two separate parcels, though both are tiny and both are in Valozières. The fruit is lush, though a little tannin arrives on the finish to remind you of where it’s from.
Drink from 2027
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Les Herbues’
£660 IB - 12x75cl
There is a fair amount of structure here (60-year-old vines on the borders of Vosne) and perhaps less whole bunch character. Plenty of flesh, though, and the effect of whole bunch is seen by the added freshness it brings.
Drink from 2027
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Coteau des Bois’
£900 IB - 12x75cl
This small plot lies just behind Domaine Gouges in the heart of Nuits, on a steep slope with plenty of stones. Last year it was blended with some of the wine above but this year it has been kept separate. It’s stony and lively with good flesh under but there just isn’t very much. So you will have to be very nice to us and start begging to secure your allocation.
Drink from 2027
Domaine
Cathiard
This domaine has come an awfully long way since its early beginnings with Alfred Cathiard at the helm back in the thirties, when it had just a handful of vines which fruit Alfred used to sell off to négociants. His son, André, took over in the 1960s and began bottling some of his own wines for the first time. Gaining confidence and ambition, he acquired vineyards in both Malconsorts and Romanée Saint Vivant, two plots that, subsequently, have become synonymous with the domaine.
In 1995 André retired leaving his son, Sylvain, to evolve things still further, which he did quite significantly over the next decade or so, establishing the domaine as one of the most sought-after in the Côte de Nuits. In 2006, his son Sébastien began working at the domaine and took full control just a few years later. Recently, he has constructed a very smart new cuverie and cellar as well as buying various new parcels in order to help him fill them!
Today, the domaine totals twelve hectares, eight of which are both regional wines and wines from the Hautes Côtes de Nuits, and four of which are from some of the finest plots in the Côte de Nuits. All the wines are fully destemmed, Sébastien being anxious to maximise the terroir nuances of the individual vineyards. Since his time in charge, he has reduced the percentages of new oak significantly for the same reason: he works hard in the vineyard and does not want a house style to override the subtleties of the different parcels. Whilst there is a luxurious plushness to the wines, they always retain real authenticity and a sense of place.
I only get to visit Sebastien once a year, but what such visits lack in quantity they more than compensate for in quality. The last couple of tastings at the domaine have been spectacular and I left this year both enthused and impressed in equal measure.
Sebastien’s 2022s were pretty special, and these 2023s are really not very far behind at all. He started harvesting on the 12th September and all the wines came in between a very classical 12.5 to 13.5 degrees. Sebastien himself, never one to go overboard in his hyperbole, felt they were very close to the quality of 2022.
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
£234 IB - 6x75cl
A definitive Bourgogne with a superior level of sophistication and poise. Angular, lean and lifted with a core of energy running through it. Detailed and precise. Good start!
Drink from 2027
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Rouge
£258 IB - 6x75cl
Not the most concentrated wine you will taste this year, but one with lovely clarity and balance. Beautifully clean and pure with a lot of dynamism.
Drink from 2028
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits ‘Chaumes’
£267 IB - 6x75cl
This has a slightly different profile, with more fat and richness. The fruit is a little darker, too, but, once again, the drive that runs through it is mouthwatering.
Drink from 2028
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits ‘Les Dames Huguette’
£273 IB - 6x75cl
One of the area’s prime vineyards with a strong limestone presence which brings a vibrant stoniness to the wine. This has more poise, complexity and intensity and very svelte tannins. High class.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
£468 IB - 6x75cl
The vines here are forty years old and the wine see 40% new oak. The parcel is from the lower part of Gevrey where there is a little more clay and the wine is consequently wellstructured and quite fruit-driven. It’s not massive but it is nicely concentrated, expressing the lusciousness of the vintage and well as grip and focus. It works really well.
Drink from 2030
Domaine Cathiard
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges
£468 IB - 6x75cl
70-year-old vines that produce lots of small berries have resulted in a Nuits that is unusually sexy and glossy. Fleshy, concentrated and very seductive.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée
£522 IB - 6x75cl
This is a whole different animal. Great definition and nobility, very fine-featured yet intense and very long. A truly serious village Vosne.
Drink from 2030
2023 Chambolle-Musigny ‘Clos de l’Orme’
£552 IB - 6x75cl
Just below the premiers crus, these 50-year-old vines sit on iron rich, poor soil. The wine is very pretty yet quite lush with polished tannins and lovely Chambolle aromatics.
Drink from 2029
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Thorey’
£1020 IB - 6x75cl
It’s easy to tell that we’re on the Vosne side of Nuits here. Although the nose is quite restrained, the palate is lush and fleshy with a little sappy gloss and lovely volume. A little Nuits grip on the finish just adds a tidy finishing bow to the wine.
Drink from 2030
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Murgers’
£1110 IB - 6x75cl
We move up a gear here as we close in on Vosne! Gorgeous textural polish and super glossy tannins all surround a palate of intense concentration that somehow retains a lovely precision and drive. A masterclass in winemaking.
Drink from 2031
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Aux Reignots’
£1830 IB - 6x75cl
Youngish vines here but no lapse in concentration. A little more backward than the other wines tasted up to this point but still lush and juicy. Well integrated tannins and plenty of flesh.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘En Orveaux’
£1830 IB - 6x75cl
About a lovely a wine as one could wish for. 70-year-old vines with a cool northeast exposure, this is simply fantastic. Not massive, but very complete with beautiful aromatics and nigh on perfect precision. Very complex and such lovely harmony.
Drink from 2032
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’
£2280 IB - 6x75cl
Darker, sensuous fruits with enhanced concentration and structural intensity. Youthful and backward, this is a Suchots built to last.
Drink from 2032
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Aux Malconsorts’
£3000 IB - 6x75cl
This is an immense wine that fools you with its weight of juicy fruit on the attack. As the palate evolves so the structure grows like a beast waking from his winter slumber. The level of structure is imposing and dwarfs the fruit at this stage, even though the tannins are really very fine. A serious wine but not for drinking just yet!
Drink from 2036
2023 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru
£3780 IB - 3x75cl
Structurally this isn’t quite as big as the Malconsorts but neither is it a complete shrinking violet. Like the Malconsorts, the structure gathers pace in the mouth but the finish is very fine and the tannins detailed and in proportion. Given time this should become something really very graceful indeed.
Drink from 2035
Domaine Jean-Marc Millot
Domaine Jean-Marc Millot
Nicolas Faure
Domaine
Jean Tardy & Fils
Victor Tardy established this domaine just after the Second World War, when he began farming various plots of land under the métayage system, whereby he farmed the land but didn’t actually own it and paid rent on it by giving up a proportion of the wines he made from it. Previously he had been working for the Camuzet estate but jumped at the chance to do his own thing when Etienne Camuzet offered him this opportunity.
Twenty years later, Victor’s son, Jean, took over the domaine and managed to extend the agreement with the Camuzet family to include some premiers and grands crus. In turn, Jean’s son, Guillaume, joined his father at the domaine as the new millenium dawned, having gained some valuable experience working at various wineries abroad. He assumed complete control a couple of years later in 2003, but then had to give back some vineyards to the Camuzet family in 2007, when JeanNicolas Méo returned to the family property and wanted to make his own wines.
However, Guillaume did not mope around feeling sorry for himself. Instead he gradually built the domaine back up, buying vineyards when the opportunities arose. Today, he farms around six hectares, including recent additions in the Hautes-Côtes and Fixin. Guillaume’s progress as a vigneron has been relentless rather than instant which is key if one is looking for sustainable quality. He works his vineyards hard and enjoys it, though one couldn’t help but feel for him when he spoke of a recent rainstorm during 2023 when he had literally just finished treating the vines as the heavens opened and washed away all his hard work. Who said the life of a winemaker is all glamour and paulées.
The domaine is blessed with lots of old vines which allows Guillaume to be quite gentle in his extraction, the grapes willingly giving up their intense juice and matière. Everything in the cellar is currently destemmed, and the amount of new oak is varied depending up on the cuvée. 2023 is the third year the vineyards have been worked organically with certification in mind, meaning the domaine will be certified organic from 2024 onwards. He has done a lot of work with compost and he can see the difference, as the vineyards have ‘really come back to life’.
Because Guillaume has so many old vines in the domaine he didn’t feel the need to do a green harvest as yields regulated themselves. He did do quite a bit of sorting at the cuverie, mind. Total acidity was higher than last year, although pHs were also higher. He began harvesting on 11th September and all the wines came in between 12.8 and 13.2. One thing Guillaume did seem very happy with was his new destemmer, which is much better at keeping the berries whole, allowing to achieve more aromatics and lusher tannins.
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
‘Cuvée Maëlie’
£168 IB - 6x75cl
No great surprise that we have another top-notch Hautes Côtes on our hands. Ripe, cool and lush with silky, integrated tannins.
Drink from 2027
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages ‘Aux Boulardes’
£222 IB - 6x75cl
This comes from three separate parcels just south of Nuits and is full of ripe, juicy fruit. Very accessible and attractive.
Drink from 2027
2023 Fixin ‘La Place’
£264 IB - 6x75cl
Fifty-year-old vines from the middle of the appellation. Lovely aromatics with an almost whole bunchy florality which is delightful. Charming and pretty, with a little Fixin zip to drive it forward.
Drink from 2028
2023 Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Athets’
£420 IB - 6x75cl
The vines here are between 50 and 80 years old. There is quite a depth here and some structure to support it, but the tannins are svelte and sweet and the whole thing is very charming.
Drink from 2028
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘Au Bas de Combe’ Vieilles Vignes
£360 IB - 6x75cl
Super wine from just below the premiers crus. Sandy soil gives its lightness and sophistication and it’s really quite delicate for a Nuits. Stylish and impressive.
Drink from 2029
Domaine
Jean Tardy & Fils
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
‘Champerrier’ Vieilles Vignes
£378 IB - 6x75cl
Old vines here, too, and perhaps the most backward of the four village wines. Earthy with more conspicuous tannin and structure, though still not overpowering. Just needs a little time.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée ‘Les Vigneux’
£420 IB - 6x75cl
£438 IB - 3x150cl
Terrific wine. Displaying blueberries and blackberries in equal measure. Lovely volume and quite lifted and seamless. Ethereal and long with excellent detail.
Drink from 2029
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Argillas’
£648 IB - 6x75cl
£660 IB - 3x150cl
More vines in their fifties lying to the north of the village on the Vosne side. Once again, this is quite fine-featured and vertical. Nice grip which provides energy and focus to go with the easy concentration.
Drink from 2030
2023 Echezeaux Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes
£840 IB - 3x75cl
Backward, dark and brooding, requiring more cellaring than many of the other examples in this offer. There is a big weight of fruit, all entwined in a well-married structure.
Drink from 2032
Mark Haisma
Looking back, all Mark’s previous winemaking experiences, including his ten years at the highly regarded Yarra Yering in his native Australia, seemed to be leading him to his ultimate destiny: becoming a bona fide Burgundian vigneron.
He made the bold move 17 years ago, in 2007, when he decided to infiltrate a local industry with hundreds of years of family history behind it. He started with no vines of his own at all and had to quickly establish a network of contracts and informal arrangements to buy grapes. Thankfully, buying fruit was not nearly as expensive as it is today!
Over time, he began to work many of the vineyards himself and his farming techniques would gradually improve the quality of the fruit which would be harvested on his behalf or, more and more often, by himself. With climate change, picking dates have become even more crucial than they used to be and being able to manage the process is a huge boon to the evolution of his wines. But his great dream has always been to have vines of his own and, gradually, he managed to acquire various plots across the two Côtes. Concurrently, he has constructed a custom-made new winery in Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, just across the RN74 from Vougeot and about a mile from Morey-Saint-Denis to the north and Vosne-Romanée to the south. This has given him more space and freedom to evolve his operation still further.
He is always disappointed when he loses access to a vineyard, often because a member of the owner’s family has decided to take over the estate and makes wines of their own, but, generally, the strength of his relationships with such owners and the authenticity of his personality have ensured that he has built up significant runs of vintages of various specific wines over the past decade and a half.
Mark is a fan of whole bunch, though he is not obsessive about it, and adapts to the style and quality of fruit he has in his winery. He is searching for subtlety, freshness, aromatics, and using a certain amount of wholebunch allows him to be successful in his quest. Quality continues to climb as everything falls into place.
In some respects Mark almost prefers these challenging vintages as he can get stuck in in the vineyards and really make a difference, whether that be in his parcels or the ones he farms.
As usual, Mark used a good dose of whole bunch in his ’23s, enjoying the freshness the stems brought the wines, but being careful not to increase the pHs too much with the potassium that lies within. Tasting through the range he seemed to judge it perfectly from wine to wine. The whites were perhaps less saline than last year but no less fresh and vibrant.
Whites
2023 Saint-Romain ‘Le Jarron’ Blanc
£210 IB - 6x75cl
This is now all from the vineyard of Le Jarron and it shows great, fresh savoury extract and plenty of weight and substance, which combines well with the natural drive of the appellation.
Drink from 2026
2023 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘En Caradeux’
£270 IB - 6x75cl
This mini Corton Charlie from one of the unsung vineyards of the Côte de Beaune has a lively, citrussy freshness which merely enhances the natural stoniness of the fruit. Discreet oak and more to come.
Drink from 2027
2023 Meursault ‘Sous la Velle’
£312 IB - 6x75cl
Sous La Velle is a fairly sizeable parcel that lies just below the village. It has some nice savoury elements that mingle well with the relatively rich mid-palate fruit.
Drink from 2026
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet
£630 IB - 12x75cl
This has a lower pH than the Meursault thanks to the rain that hit the village but that avoided its neighbour. It has a very nice leanness and energy to it which adds length and an appealing sapidity.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Maltroie’
£660 IB - 3x150cl
This is significantly richer with more dry extract, intensity and weight. There is a little Maltroie spice, too, and hints of lemon rind. Lots to enjoy here.
Drink from 2027
Mark Haisma Reds
2023 Volnay ‘La Cave’
£246 IB - 6x75cl
One of the highlights of the tasting. This is such a nice example of elegant Volnay. Fragrant, energetic, and gentle with strong linear elements and lovely pretty red fruits.
Drink from 2027
2023 Chambolle-Musigny
£372 IB - 6x75cl
There is lovely fragrance here that is so evocative of the appellation and has been beautifully spotlighted by Mark with his confident use of whole bunch. Very elegant and lovely purity of fruit.
Drink from 2028
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
£300 IB - 6x75cl
This is no cumbersome, uncouth Gevrey which bludgeons its way through to the consumer’s mouth. It’s very fine featured and full of tension with crucial grip and energy.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘En Pallud’
£336 IB - 6x75cl
From the moment this hit the glass to the very last sip, it was simply magical. The fruit is sweet and lush with excellent intensity. It all seems so effortless. There is a balancing structural core that runs right through the palate and really lifts and elongates the finish. Great job.
Drink from 2029
2023 Pommard 1er Cru ‘Clos des Arvelets’
£402 IB - 6x75cl
These south-facing old vines on a steep slope have made a wine full of contrast. The rich clay soil has given the wine its Pommard character and weight, yet the steepness of the slope has given an element of strictness which keeps all the fruit in line. Smells like there’s a lot of whole bunch here but there isn’t any at all. Just total fragrance from the ripeness of the grapes.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Fontenys’
£900 IB - 6x75cl
£912 IB - 3x150cl
Mark’s take on this parcel is that he is ‘blessed to be able to work with a vineyard like this’ 65% whole bunch and it feels just right. Once again there is purity and energy and drive all coming from the paucity of the soil and the presence of the la roche mère. Still tight but harmonious and, clearly, lots to come.
Drink from 2029
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Chaffots’
£504 IB - 6x75cl
£510 IB - 3x150cl
Always a fantastic wine in this cellar, this has real pedigree and a touch of class. Lots of power and structure, too, and it will need time, but it has grip and drive, which, coupled with the appealing aromatics of whole bunch, bring layers and compact complexity.
Drink from 2031
Gilly-lès-Cîteaux
Domaine
Georges Roumier
The history of this twelve-hectare domaine is fairly uncomplicated. George Roumier created it, exactly 100 years ago in 1924. He initially sold off his production to local negociants, until he began bottling under his own name immediately after World War II.
His son, Jean-Marie, picked up the pipette in 1957, before passing onto his son, Christophe, in 1992 having worked together for ten years. Christophe continues to make the wines today and continues to fashion quite brilliant wines in his quiet, unassuming way. A keen cyclist, it is not unreasonable to claim that, amongst the many wonderful vignerons of the Côte de Nuits, Christophe wears Le Maillot Jaune.
This year we were welcomed by Christophe’s sister, Delphine, who kindly took us through what proved to be another spectacular range of wines. She pointed out that they began harvesting on 13th September, which is later than some, but judging by the quality and character of the wines, the timing was spot on. Each time I taste here now, I think I will be ready to take the wines in my stride and each time I am knocked sideways or lost for words by their sheer brilliance.
2023 Chambolle-Musigny
£750 IB - 6x75cl
Chambolle-Musigny
The definitive Chambolle: full of purpose and purity with an expressive delicatesse that is just so seductive, like a subtle flick of the hair.
Drink from 2029
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Clos de la Bussière’
£960 IB - 6x75cl
This is often the most brooding backward of the wines in the range, the earthy, structured fruit refusing to let you see more than a glimpse of what’s to come for the first ten years of its life. But even this is looking quite expressive and joyous with quite lush tannins and a healthy dollop of bright, briary fruit.
Drink from 2033
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Cras’
£1500 IB - 6x75cl
Curiously, this was more reticent than the Bussière, although it was more the bright acidity keeping it closed than the broad structure. Very fine-featured and beautifully elegant. Has the gravitas that the village wine hints at and such depth and layers, too, all handled with great finesse. A real cracker.
Drink from 2031
2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
£2400 IB - 3x75cl
Absolutely classic Bonnes Mares. Very fine but powerful and rigorous with huge potential. The structure is so noble and the depth so profound. There is clearly plenty of tannin, but those tannins are very fine. What’s not to love?
Drink from 2035
Domaine Arlaud Père et Fils & Cyprien
Arlaud
The middle of World War Two might seem an inauspicious time to create a new domaine, but so it was that in 1942 Joseph Arlaud married Renée Amiot, who brought with her an array of vineyards that would be the base on which they could build something special together. The newly married couple bought various parcels of vines in the Côte de Nuits and an old salt cellar (Grenier du Sel) in Nuits-Saint-Georges in which to age all their new wines.
In 1983 their son, Hervé took charge of the domaine and continued his parents’ philosophy of acquiring new vineyards, with a focus very much on those in Morey-Saint-Denis and its two neighbouring villages, Chambolle-Musigny and Gevrey-Chambertin. At the start of the new Millenium, work began on an ambitious new cuverie across the RN74 from the centre of the village (of Morey), which Hervé’s eldest son, Cyprien, would christen by hosting his wedding reception there, just a few days before all the stainless steel cuves were due to arrive.
At about this time the domaine (now fifteen hectares) moved towards organic farming and by 2010 had gained its official certificate. Moving quickly forward from this, it then gained its biodynamic certification just four years later. Cyprien was now fully in charge and really drove the domaine forward, seeing his vineyards come back to life right in front of his eyes. All the premiers and grands crus sites, which total about five hectares, are ploughed by horse and worked by hand. The soil has become vibrant and teaming with life and the quality of fruit that Cyprien is harvesting is getting better with every vintage.
This fundamental change in the quality of fruit, thanks to the natural balance of the vineyards, cannot be overstated in terms of importance to the evolution of the domaine’s wines, qualitatively speaking. It has also allowed Cyprien to become ever finer in his vinification,
with gentler extraction at every stage, much done by gravity and remontage being favoured over pigeage. Whole bunch is judiciously used, and new oak is kept at levels where it never gets in the way of terroir nuance.
Recent vintages have received great press and there seems to have been a moment over the last 4 or 5 years when Cyprien has just discreetly moved up the hierarchical ladder to join one or two other domaines at the very top of the tree. It hasn’t been just one thing that is responsible for this progression and it hasn’t been instant, but it has been relentless and inexorable, and, in hindsight, inevitable.
Meanwhile the quality of Cyprien’s ‘négoce’ wines continues to climb and given all the work he does in the vineyards throughout the year it’s hardly surprising. We have slotted them in amongst the Domaine wines as we feel they deserve their place in the stellar line up of wines.
Harvesting began on the 7th September and Cyprien has a sizeable team to pick, allowing him to be very agile with where and when he picks. Some parcels he actually harvested twice, once for the younger vines and once for the older ones as they weren’t always both coming to their peak at precisely the same time.
Cyprien did both a green and blue harvest to keep potential yields where he wanted them and all wines came in at between 12.8 and 13.2 degrees alcohol, which proves he got it just right. There was perhaps a fraction less whole bunch than in ’22 but the difference was negligible. Another great set of wines.
2023 Bourgogne Rouge ‘Roncevie’
£252 IB - 12x75cl
This is one of our primeur offer’s best value wines every single year. Famously from a vineyard that used to be classified as Gevrey-Chambertin, this is an eminently serious wine that punches some way above its weight. It has lovely fragrance and general aromatics, but it also has substance and is quite backward, suggesting that there is quite a bit more to come.
Drink from 2027
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages (Cyprien Arlaud)
£150 IB - 6x75cl
This shows really well. Rich and juicy with plenty of flesh and intensity. Classically styled but also lots of charm.
Drink from 2027
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges (Cyprien Arlaud)
£249 IB - 6x75cl
Seventy-year-old vines and again we have another delicious Nuits-St-Georges in this vintage. Very aromatic with lovely bite and freshness and plenty of Vosne-esque sophistication (vines lie to the north of Nuits). Excellent.
Drink from 2028
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis
£291 IB - 6x75cl
£351 IB - 12x37.5cl
A very well-made village wine with lots of charm and no hard edges. Medium weight, very harmonious and really very pretty. Drink from 2028
2023 Chambolle-Musigny
£366 IB - 6x75cl
£426 IB - 12x37.5cl
As it often is, this is more backward and powerful than the Morey which is slightly counterintuitive. But it’s also very well balanced and the tannins are impressively integrated. Drink from 2028
Domaine Arlaud Père et Fils &
Cyprien Arlaud
2023 Vosne-Romanée (Cyprien Arlaud)
£372 IB - 6x75cl
This is the most reticent of the five village wines, showing more overt structure than the others. Yet the framework is fine and there is lots of vigour all the way through the palate. Fine tannins, too.
Drink from 2029
2023 Vosne-Romanée ‘Aux Réas’ (Cyprien Arlaud)
£408 IB - 6x75cl
Small volumes here but a Vosne with sparkles on. There is more fragrance, more expression of wild and fine fruit flavours, lovely intensity and seamless tannins. And all this with plenty of substance to back it up. A superior Vosne.
One of the Crus from the north side of the village, this is really lush and expressive. Eighty-year-old vines give an effortless concentration, and the tannins are equally seamless. Lovely lift and drive.
Drink from 2030
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Millandes’
£414 IB - 6x75cl
Much to enjoy here and be very seduced by. 30% whole bunch brings lovely floral fragrance to the party and a delicatesse and purity which is delightful. Very nicely crafted.
Drink from 2031
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Aux Cheseaux’
£435 IB - 6x75cl
On the frontiers of Gevrey with a very stony soil, this is a beguiling mix of linear drive with fine grained tannins and a lusciousness of fruit from the vintage. There is just the right amount of both.
Drink from 2031
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Ruchots’
£720 IB - 6x75cl
£780 IB - 3x150cl
£600 IB - 1x300cl
This is such a great vineyard, bordering Chambolle and sitting just under Bonnes Mares and Clos de Tart. Great aromatic intensity here, with lovely lush tannins but also plenty of sensuous fruit. Like classic Bonnes-Mares, there is more structure here than one initially thinks. Nice florality and very complete and long.
Drink from 2032
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Sentiers’
£780 IB - 6x75cl
Another very nice vineyard, also sitting below Bonnes-Mares, but on the other side of village boundary. Old vines mean lots of small berries which in turn means an easy intensity with also a concentration of phenolics and acidity. Slightly sappy on the finish and clearly plenty to come given time.
Drink from 2033
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Aux Combottes’
£900 IB - 6x75cl
£930 IB - 3x150cl
£700 IB - 1x300cl
A gorgeous nose invites you into a palate of charm and hedonism. Silky tannins, a seamless texture, with slightly darker, spice-infused fruit and lovely blueberry purity. Long and sapid finish.
Having recently drunk and very much enjoyed the 2019 of this, I am full of enthusiasm for this Cru, which has beautifully pure and focussed fruit and an airy feel amid significant concentration and structure.
Drink from 2033
2023 Clos-de-Vougeot Grand Cru (Cyprien Arlaud)
£582 IB - 3x75cl
This isn’t a burly, impenetrable Clos Vougeot, but it will need time to mellow and refine itself as there is plenty of structure and earthy tannins, although it’s fine-featured.
Drink from 2032
2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
£1200 IB - 6x75cl
£1230 IB - 3x150cl
£900 IB - 1x300cl
This is more powerful than expected with a strong pair of shoulders and a certain amount of attitude. Still very much on the red fruits but plenty of stuffing and substance underneath.
Drink from 2034
2023 Echezeaux Grand Cru (Cyprien Arlaud)
£624 IB - 3x75cl
Lots of fruit here and a really nice pure fluidity from start to finish, a quality that seems to characterise this appellation this year. Fresh, silkily textured and long.
Drink from 2032
2023 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
£750 IB - 3x75cl
£1530 IB - 3x150cl
£1070 IB - 1x300cl
Great fruit intensity and clever use of whole bunch to help balance the sheer weight of lush fruit. Lots of violets and other flowers and very glossy and plush with a nice balancing drive to finish long and sapid.
Drink from 2033
2023 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru
£960 IB - 3x75cl
£1950 IB - 3x150cl
As rare as hens’ teeth but very lovely. Very elegant and nuanced with all sorts of delicate complexities bubbling away. Who doesn’t love this Grand Cru, one of the Côte de Nuits very finest.
Drink from 2033
2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
£1200 IB - 3x75cl
£2430 IB - 3x150cl
£1700 IB - 1x300cl
Plenty of whole bunch in evidence, but also a wine of considered and significant structure that is built to unfurl slowly and gracefully over time. Great potential.
Drink from 2034
Domaine
Stéphane Magnien
At the turn of the 20th century Victor Magnien established Domaine Magnien in Morey-Saint-Denis with an array of vineyards from Bourgogne up through to Grand Cru. He was succeeded by his son, Félix, just after the Second World War and, as his father before had done, he continued to sell the fruits of his labour to local négociants. Then it was Jean-Paul’s turn and he was the first to begin bottling his own wines whilst developing a national and then international market for them.
In 2002 he was joined by his son, Stéphane, who worked alongside him until 2008, when he took full control of the domaine. Thanks to his ancestors, Stéphane has some wonderful old vines amongst the 4.5 hectares in the domaine, the oldest being 120 years old! He is a thoughtful man, who likes to reflect and consider his next move calmly. He is not one to follow fads and keeps things fairly traditional, although this image of him perhaps underplays his quiet but steely ambition.
He is evolving the quality of the domaine and its wines relentlessly, with small but important tweaks where needed. In terms of vinification, everything in the cellar is destemmed except for his premier cru cuvée called Aux Petits Noix, a blend of Clos Baulet and Les Gruenchers, and for his Charmes, into which he added 10% wholebunch in 2023. New oak is sensibly used, between 20 and 50% depending on the level of the wine. Extraction is light and he only does a couple of pigeages for most wines, although the Charmes enjoys a little more. The wines are nicely understated and display their origins very attractively. Prices at this domaine have always been very fair and they continue to be so.
Stéphane managed to have his new extension to his cellars completed over the summer, despite the continual rain that plagued most of Burgundy over the summer months. It just gives him that vital bit of extra space so he can do things when they need to be done, rather than merely because he needs the space. Thankfully it was all finished by the time he started harvesting on 7th September. The pHs were much lower than those of some of the other growers, finishing under 3.3 and the degrees all coming in at between 12.5 and 13.3. One can taste this vibrancy in the wines themselves. Stéphane did a green harvest before he went away on holiday in July and then had to do another one when he got back in August, which is apparently called a blue harvest and hardly ever takes place.
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes
£207 IB - 6x75cl
£222 IB - 3x150cl
This comes from two parcels of old vines in Cognés and Clos Solon where there is a fair amount of clay. Consequently the wine has a certain power and is fairly backwards. Needs time.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chambolle-Musigny ‘Les Athets’
£258 IB - 6x75cl
Also old vines here, but we see the stark difference between the terroirs, as this is much more approachable and harmonious with a very nice crunchiness to it. Really quite expressive.
Drink from 2028
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis
1er Cru Cuvée ‘Aux Petites Noix’
£360 IB - 6x75cl
This is a blend of Les Gruenchers and Clos Baulet and is the only wine in the range that really sees any whole bunch (around 20%). Although, having said that, Stephane was really happy with the results he got from the whole clusters so I think we may see more examples in the future. There is no pigeage on this wine, yet the fruit is rich and dark, though without the extraction the tannins are glossy rather than dry. Impressive wine.
Drink from 2029
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Faconnières’
£378 IB - 6x75cl
£390 IB -3x150cl
This is a wonderful contrast, showing much less polish and having a wonderfully linear and mineral backbone which drives it forward with purpose and conviction. Very promising.
This vineyard can be found up above the Clos de la Roche, on poor, sandy soil, where the mother rock is just below. Once again, it’s quite linear and slightly airy with a pleasing touch of spice.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Sentiers’
£408 IB - 6x75cl
£420 IB -3x150cl
From three excellent and very typical Moreys, we head to Chambolle and this excellent vineyard that sits just below Bonnes-Mares itself. Some of the vines are an astonishing 120 years old. The fruit is certainly ripe with blackberries and inky blueberries the order of the day. Quite plush and seductive.
Drink from 2029
2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
£450 IB - 3x75cl
£912 IB -3x150cl
This is just as silky and charming as a Charmes should be, with good levels of ripeness but also plenty of delicatesse. Very nicely handled.
Drink from 2030
2023 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru
£450 IB - 3x75cl
£912 IB -3x150cl
Stephane described this plot of Grand Cru vines as the ‘perfect balance between chalk and clay’. Quite low yields for the vintage thanks to the small berries which give a greater level of darker fruit than the other wines. But there is also more spice and enough mineral verve to set it alive.
Drink from 2031
Domaine
Taupenot-Merme
This domaine has its roots both in the Côte de Beaune and in the Côte de Nuits. When Jean Taupenot, from Saint-Romain, and Denise Merme from Morey-SaintDenis got married in the early sixties they brought with them their respective family vineyards and thus Domaine Taupenot-Merme was born. Twenty-five years later Romain Taupenot joined the family business, and today, as winemaker, he looks after almost 20 hectares, split fairly evenly between the two Côtes, following the recent addition of another five hectares of AuxeyDuresses and Saint-Romain.
Romain works alongside his sister, Virginie, in what is a true family affair. Over the past two decades Romain has gradually overseen the evolution of the estate into one of the village’s finest, and that is no mean feat given the quality of domaines in this great part of Burgundy. One reason for the improvement is the age of vines. As Romain acknowledges wryly, when asked the age of many of his vines he still thinks of them as being young, as many of them are the same age as him! He has to remind himself that he is no longer in his twenties! On the plus side, being close to fifty himself now, the vines are also at an optimum age for producing great wines.
Romain farms organically and destems all his fruit. The trend for whole-bunch is not his bag, but when the wines are this good, it’s hard to see the need to experiment. New oak is very sensibly used and generally tends to be around 20% for village wines, 30-35% for premiers crus and a little more for grands crus, though the vintage and the individual crus will have their say, too! Romain’s wines have been performing really well at the Burgfest retrospective tastings for a while now, always showing great intensity alongside a wonderful classicism. There
are some excellent parcels in the range, with the two personal favourites being the 1er Cru Combe d’Orveaux in Chambolle-Musigny, which sits just above the holy grail of Musigny, and 1er Cru Bel Air, which also sits atop another legendary plot in the mighty Chambertin-Clos de Bèze.
And, of course, Romain has both Charmes and Mazoyères-Chambertin at grand cru level which make for a fascinating comparison of the two crus, as well as a monopole-defying patch of Clos des Lambrays. The arrival of extra vineyards in the Côte de Beaune is well timed, too, as thanks to climate change the once significantly colder appellation of Auxey-Duresses is becoming the new Meursault, and Romain now has significant parcels of both colours within it.
The next generation of Taupenots is now waiting firmly in the wings, as I was joined by Romain’s two sons who are now working at the domaine when I visited to taste the ’23s back in November. Not that Romain is about to hang up his pipette any time soon, but it’s encouraging that the passion is there for when the time comes.
Still for the moment, let’s focus on Romain and his ’23s. He began picking on the 11th September. He had done a small green harvest in July to thin out the bunches and noted that the vines suffered from a little hydric stress in August. Consequently, maturity was kept in check and everything was harvested between 12.2 and 13.6 degrees. When I tasted, everything looked to be in a good place. The wines had just been racked and were showing plenty of fragrance and were very expressive. Their structures seemed very harmonious and whilst there were some tannins they tended to be svelte and well-integrated.
Whites
2023 Auxey-Duresses Blanc
£165 IB - 6x75cl
As we have mentioned several times already, Auxey-Duresses must think all of its birthdays have come at once thanks to the recent shift in the climate. This once cold corner of the Côte de Beaune is now the hot (in the other sense of the word) place to have vines. This example has a little spice and midpalate weight, but retains a citrussy edge that cuts through the palate and lifts it.
Drink from 2026
2023 Saint-Romain Blanc
£165 IB - 6x75cl
Saint-Romain is set slightly further back in the valley and has very much its own share of white soil in sheltered locations. But again that bite is now a big positive as it adds verve and energy to wines like this.
Drink from 2027
Reds
2023 Auxey-Duresses Rouge
£159 IB - 6x75cl
This is very much about the bright, slightly spicy red fruits that jump from the glass. The tannins have enough ripeness to add just the right level of grip to give the wine tension and focus.
Drink from 2027
2023 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Rouge
£228 IB - 6x75cl
Remarkably, this was the first parcel to be picked in 2023. How times have changed. There is more structure than the village wine and this will need more time, but there is also more depth of fruit underneath, although it remains red and bright.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Taupenot-Merme
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
£318 IB - 6x75cl
£390 IB -3x150cl
And so back to the Côte de Nuits. This is incredibly fragrant for a Gevrey. Remember, Romain destems everything so the fragrance is coming from the sweet ripeness of the fruit rather than the whole clusters. It comes from a blend of four very different parcels (La Justice, Les Sevrées, Craite-Paille and Bel Air – the village bit). This is quite lush texturally but then finishes with drive and energy. A really fine example.
Drink from 2029
2023 Chambolle-Musigny
£342 IB - 6x75cl
£402 IB -3x150cl
A blend of Bussières and La Taupe, with the former adding more structure than is sometimes the case but La Taupe offsets that with its pretty aromatic fruit contribution. All in all, a Chambolle with both fragrance and substance.
Drink from 2030
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis
£354 IB - 6x75cl
The smallest of the three village wines, in terms of production anyway. But it is seriously good. Precise, compact, focused with sweet flavours and spice and lots of red fruit bursting through. Authoritative.
Drink from 2030
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Pruliers’
£570 IB - 6x75cl
£636 IB -3x150cl
The ’23 is a really lovely version of this vineyard and a fine example of the lusciousness of the vintage really complementing the structural elements of those vineyards from the south side of the village. Nice lift, too and quite finefeatured. Should age very well.
Drink from 2032
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru ‘La Riotte’
£600 IB - 6x75cl
£672 IB -3x150cl
This is perhaps always the most backward of the various premiers crus at the domaine, a bit likes the Clos de la Bussière chez Roumier. But one must remember that many parts of Morey do produce very powerful, long living wines. In fact, it is perhaps the appellation with the most diverse styles of wines influenced by the terroir, not the grower. The vines here are 70 years old and add real depth to the structural make up of the wine which is quite powerful. But the mid palate is refined and poised before giving in to its structured side, which suggests a long future.
Beautiful fragrance here and you’d surely place this as Chambolle if you tasted it blind. The tannins are wonderfully silky and the fruit aromatic and bright, with a certain delicatesse that accentuates the Pinot character in the wine. Finely featured and really quite delicious.
Drink from 2031
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Bel Air’
£690 IB - 6x75cl
£750 IB -3x150cl
£540 IB -1x300cl
Sitting above Clos de Bèze, this is also a mixture of the two wines above in terms of fragrance and structure. The fruit is delineated yet it has power and depth. So much to come and really very noble.
Drink from 2032
Domaine Taupenot-Merme
2023 Corton-Rognet Grand Cru
£1080 IB - 6x75cl
And so the four grands crus. We begin with the Corton, which is an appellation that has clearly flourished in this luscious vintage. There is more fat than usual coating the tannins and, although it tightens a touch on the finish, the amount of sweet flesh is impressive. Quite glossy, too, especially for the appellation.
Drink from 2033
2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
£1350 IB - 6x75cl
£1440 IB -3x150cl
£1000 IB -1x300cl
I have tasted some rather nice Charmes from Romain recently. Both the 2001 and 2002 , tasted (and offered) recently, were showing very well with plenty of vigour. They were Romain’s first two vintages that he made over 20 years ago! And then I had the pleasure of tasting the 2020 at Burgfest which was just sublime, wowing pretty much the entire room. It was certainly one of the wines of the whole week. So I am excited to see where this will go in time, even allowing for it being a little reticent currently. The structure is more delicate than some of the other wines, but the wine itself is just closed down. The fragrance and prettiness will no doubt transform into a lovely butterfly over the next ten years and more.
Drink from 2033
2023 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
£1500 IB - 6x75cl
£1620 IB -3x150cl
£1125 IB -1x300cl
Wow, what a great wine. I was not expecting so much glossiness and sheer voluptuous concentration at this stage of its evolution. It’s the perfect foil to the more discreet Charmes. Yet although it’s more substantial and imposing it’s also perfectly balanced and very together. Huge potential here. One of his best ever.
Drink from 2034
2023 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
£1980 IB - 3x75cl
£4290 IB -3x150cl
Referred to as the postage stamp towards the bottom of the Grand Cru, so small is the plot. We tend to allocate this by the bottle so please form an orderly queue for this very rare version of one of the best grands crus in Burgundy.
Drink from 2034
Domaine Arlaud Père et Fils, Cyprien Arlaud
Mark Haisma
Domaine Stéphane Magnien
Domaine des Chézeaux
Question. When you own and run one of the top estates in Burgundy, what’s the next thing logical you should do? Simple. Buy another one! And that’s exactly what Charles Van Canneyt did back in 2022. And hats off to Charles, because he managed to finalise the deal in the face of stiff competition from other interested parties.
Remarkably for a domaine with the majority holding of Griotte-Chambertin, a fantastic parcel of very old vines in Gevrey Cazetiers and enviable parcels in both Clos St-Denis and Chambertin, it was hardly known to the outside world at all. This is mainly due to the fact that most of the vineyards were rented out to other producers, who then made the wines under their own labels.
Having shown wonderful agility to secure the estate, Charles’ next big task was to take back control of the various parcels that were being rented out. Under French law, long term contracts such as the ones in place have to be respected or suitable compensation has to be paid. Tackling the task in hand head on, Charles talked directly to the various growers involved and fashioned arrangements that everyone was happy with, so that he could begin farming most of the land immediately. The enormity of this task should not be underestimated and it’s a testament to Charles’ charm and business acumen that he pulled it off so quickly and amicably.
In due course, Charles will construct a new cuverie on site, but for the moment the wines are being made in Vougeot at his family domaine. 2023 is the first vintage he is commercializing the wines, with the three cuvées below being the first ones to be released. Next year, the other three wines will make their debut, although for the Clos St-Denis it will be a very brief moment in the
spotlight as he is replanting the parcel next year and there won’t be a 2025 version.
Stylistically the wines will be made with the same approach as the Hudelot wines, with 100% destemming and gentle extraction. Obviously, it will take a little time for Charles to get to know the vineyards and their idiosyncrasies and to work his magic on them, but the old age of the plots will ensure that he can make great wines straight from the off. And, judging by notes from when I finally got to taste the first offerings in November 2024, he has done exactly that.
The lack of wine in 2024 will mean that we won’t see the full impact of these exciting new purchases for another year, although he made as much Griotte in ’24 as he did in ’23 as he took back more vineyards in the intervening month.
This is one of the most thrilling ‘new’ estates to have arrived in Burgundy in recent times. Amazing vineyards to be farmed by a brilliant vigneron. I would suggest that you jump on board as soon as you can as, in the world of gambling, this is about as safe a bet as you could ever make.
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Clos des Chézeaux’
£420 IB - 6x75cl
£498 IB - 3x150cl
This is a tiny monopole vineyard totalling just half a hectare below the 1er Cru Cazetiers and close to the château. It is made up of gravelly brown soil and lies on a strong bed rock of limestone. If the name sounds familiar it is because it used to be rented out to Amélie Berthaut before Charles took it back. It is classically Gevrey in style with plenty of fine structure and power, but also a certain poise and plenty of focus. Just ten barrels in total and a fine debut for Charles.
Drink from 2028
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Cazetiers’
£1170 IB - 6x75cl
£1260 IB - 3x150cl
£840 IB - 1x300cl
One could see the excitement in Charles’ eyes as we tasted this wine, as the vines are very old and the plot is a fantastic one. The old vines produce lots of small berries which concentrate both the matière of the grape and the energy within. There is a lovely mix of aromatic and flavour intensity with layers and complexity in abundance. Just five barrels of this wine for the entire world in 2023. Top notch. Drink from 2031
Domaine des Chézeaux
2023 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
£3240 IB - 6x75cl
£3390 IB - 3x150cl
£2460 IB - 1x300cl
The jewel in the crown. Charles now owns around 1.5 hectares (about 60%) of this very small Grand Cru; only Romanée Conti and La Romanée in the Côte de Nuits are smaller. Again, there are lots of very old vines here which gives great intensity to the wine from start to finish. Lots of small berries again, too, and a wonderful clarity of fruit, which is accentuated by a delightful polish and gloss. Lots of structure underneath which will ensure a long life. There is lots of limestone mingled into the soil and judging by the recent Duroché vertical tasting of Griotte, a natural refinement and elegance should rise up over time and give wonderful definition to the undoubted depth of flavour. Great potential from one of Burgundy’s truly great vineyards. How great is it to see it in the hands of someone who can highlight its real worth and class.
Drink from 2032
Mixed Case
(3 x Gevrey Chambertin, 1 x Cazetiers, 2 x Griotte)
For those wanting to ‘sample’ this new incarnation of the domaine or who are simply a little indecisive (!), we have put together a mixed three featuring all three wines from the current range.
£1,485 - 6 bottles
Domaine
Duroché
It’s been sixteen years since we began working with Pierre Duroché back in 2008. He had not long taken over from his father, but there was something about him that piqued our curiosity. The humble yet focused way he went about his business, the quiet ambition, the reflective nature. They all pointed to something greater to come.
Of course, the foundations of the domaine, in terms of vineyard holdings, had been built a couple of generations previously, firstly by his grandfather, Philippe, in the 1950s and subsequently by his father, Gilles, in the 1980s. So, when Pierre arrived at the helm in the mid-noughties he had eight hectares of prime sites with which to learn his craft and work his magic.
When I first knocked on his door all those years ago, Pierre was a mere 26 years old and had no importer anywhere in the world. Ninety minutes later I was convinced enough to propose that we become his first.
Since then, Pierre has taken the domaine to unbelievable heights and he is now recognised as one of the finest vignerons in Burgundy. Yet, despite all the hype and attention he and his wines have received over the years, he has remained as humble, good-natured and diligent as he always was.
To a certain degree his sense of discretion, honesty and purpose is reflected in the style and purity of the wines he makes. He is, of course, blessed with a number of very old vines. He has swathes of vineyards with vines well over 50 years of old age and his quarter of a hectare of Clos de Bèze was planted over a hundred years ago back in 1920. Everything he harvests is destemmed, save for the tiny number of bunches he harvests from his 0.02 hectares of Griotte-Chambertin, which only produce a miniscule halfbarrel (feuillète) of this prized Grand Cru.
Extraction is very light and delicate. The percentages of new oak that he uses are small and the oak’s impact subtle. Generally the wines allow the complexities of the sites to express themselves without fear of being drowned out by heavy handed winemaking. Texturally, they are seductive as Pierre prefers to pick early and allow the brightness and vibrancy of the fruit to provide the focus and drive in the wine, as opposed to the grip of the tannins. And this purity of flavour merely enhances the detail within the wine and elongates its energy and persistence. A fine example of how less can be more.
In recent vintages Pierre’s vineyards seem to have been plagued by bad luck, suffering from frost, localised flooding, hail and mildew, to varying degrees. But, thankfully, 2023 appears to be the first vintage in a while where yields reached normal levels: great news for all of us, as the wines are absolutely delightful. Pierre began picking in the 5th September, keen to maintain that telltale lift and aromatic intensity that so typify his wines.
And there is more good news. Aside from the enhanced volumes of certain existing wines there are some new wines making their debut under the Pierre and Marianne Duroché negociant label. As you’d expect, Pierre doesn’t just buy whatever grapes or must is available on the market and stick his label on them. He prefers to work the vineyards and do the harvest himself, to ensure he really gets the most out of the parcels. Consequently, they find their home very comfortably alongside the domaine wines. In fact, this year the Gevrey 1er Cru Combes Aux Moines, which we have never had before, is one of the estate’s wines of the vintage for both myself and Pierre!
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
SOLD OUT
Vying for the Bourgogne of the Year award, this is sumptuous, and it’s hard to imagine what more one might want from a humble Bourgogne. The dictionary definition of aromatic Pinot on the nose, this is lush yet so fresh and bright with the silkiest of tannins. The only issue is that it’s so delicious it could be drunk right away! Comes predominantly from the Roncevie vineyard that used to be classified as village.
Drink from 2025
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
£360 IB - 6x75cl
In small years like 2021, when the frost hit badly, this cuvée tends to be the home for all the single vineyard versions, but in vintage like this, Pierre bottles those separately and uses the fruit from some of his other, often smaller parcels from various parts of the appellation. This mix of parcels provides a very classical and very layered Gevrey, that has both weight from some of the more clay-rich soils and a bright vibrancy from poorer soils that are more limestone dominated.
Drink from 2027
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Le Champ’
SOLD OUT
Fifty-year-old vines here from the lighter soils of the commune of Brochon, which lies to the north of the village up towards Fixin. This is one of the vineyards where decent yields have been sporadic in recent years, but, as if to celebrate the nice volumes it has furnished Pierre with this time round, it has produced a truly delightful version of itself. The more delicate natural character of the wines from this vineyard have battled with the richness of the vintage and produced a wonderful hybrid of a wine with wonderful intensity and linear lift.
Drink from 2028
Domaine Duroché
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Le Clos’
SOLD OUT
This is one of the youngest parcels of the domaine, but its youth is nicely offset by its location in the heart of the village where the soil is a little richer, in turn imparting a degree of richness and substance into the wine. It makes for a lovely contrast with Le Champ.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ’Les Jeunes Rois’
SOLD OUT
This is a deceptively powerful wine that really grows in the mouth. Like Le Champ, the parcel is to the north of Gevrey in Brochon, but unlike that parcel the vines sit on more clay. This creates a wine of matter and structure with a little more tannin, albeit the fine tannins we have come to expect from Pierre. A seriously good village wine.
Drink from 2030
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Aux Etelois’
SOLD OUT
Well, there’s village wine and then there’s this wine. Situated just below the Grand Cru of Griotte Chambertin, this is basically an extension of that parcel. There is more depth and complexity here, but there is also a gorgeously glossy, intensely aromatic and with lustful appeal that demands your attention.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée (Pierre et Marianne Duroché)
SOLD OUT
This wine comes from a vineyard farmed by Pierre but owned by his father in law, Jacques Cacheux. It’s little stricter than his Gevreys, and a little more reticent at this stage in its evolution, but it has excellent depth and a very poised structure. It holds itself very nobly.
Drink from 2030
2023
Chambolle-Musigny
1er Cru ‘Les Echanges’ (Pierre et Marianne Duroché)
SOLD OUT
Like quite a few of the vineyards in Burgundy, part of this vineyard is classified as a village wine and part (the slightly inclined part where the soil is finer) is classified as a 1er Cru. Pierre farms the vineyard himself, although he doesn’t own it (hence the negoce label). A little known 1er Cru of less than a hectare (the village part is about double the size), this version has been fashioned into a very pretty example where the emphasis is on aromatic intensity rather than structured power. Pretty and lithe with good Chambolle character. Drink from 2029. Very limited.
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Combe Au Moine’ (Pierre
et Marianne Duroché)
SOLD OUT
I was out in Italy last week for a 12 vintage vertical of Pierre’s very rare Griotte Chambertin. Amidst shavings of white truffle being thrown around like confetti, the 2016 Griotte stole the show. Tough life I hear you cry! I did, however, manage to broach the subject of Pierre’s ‘23s with the man himself. I thought he’d like to know just how good I thought this 1er Cru was. I was pleased to hear him confirm that it was one of his very favourite wines, too. He pointed out that in 2022 he only had enough fruit for a barrel, thanks to hail, but this year there was quite a bit more. After a glass or two, he agreed to send a barrel’s worth our way, which was brilliant as the wine is stunning. The nose is emotive and ethereal and the palate nuanced, svelte and intoxicating.
Drink from 2030
Domaine Duroché
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
1er Cru ‘Lavaut St-Jacques’
SOLD OUT
The 1er Cru of Lavaux has been milking it ever since climate change added a degree or two to temperatures in this part of France. The cool, natural breeze that blows through la combe keeps the fruit vibrant and alive and brings energy to this very noble juice. This ’23 has wonderfully refined tannins and upliftingly fresh fruit flavours that mingle cosily with the deceptively powerful structure. Because the tannins are so fine, one is fooled into thinking this isn’t a wine built to last but it clearly is, such is its length and nuance.
Drink from 2031
2023
Gevrey-Chambertin
1er Cru ‘Estounelles
St-Jacques’
SOLD OUT
Estournelles is a really small vineyard that sits above the Lavaux, slightly higher up the combe de Lavaux, next to the mighty Clos St-Jacques. Thanks to its diminutive size, it’s much less well known than it’s two neighbours, and Pierre’s production is so small that it tends to be slightly under the radar: crazy given the quality. It’s a little more linear than the Lavaux and just seems to sit with such poise in the mouth. It has the lightness and precision of a ballet dancer, pirouetting across the palate. A delight.
Drink from 2031
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Malconsorts’ (Pierre et Marianne Duroché)
SOLD OUT
Pierre has only made a barrel of this wine, which is new to the range this year. Even Pierre’s lightness of touch can’t completely stifle the imposing power of this appellation. Lots of structure, with unfurling tannins and deep red fruits. Lots to come but patience is required.
Drink from 2033
2023 Corton Grand Cru
SOLD OUT
Another new wine, this time from a recent addition to the domaine’s holdings. In the wrong hands or the wrong vintage, Corton can leave a lot to be desired. A sunny year and refined winemaking are the key to making a real success of this appellation and luckily for us, 2023 and Pierre Duroché seem to be the perfect combo. No hint of rustic tannins here, in fact they’re almost gloss and polished, and the gentle extraction has kept a degree of delicatesse one rarely sees in this part of the Côte d’Or. In some ways the success of this wine is a true testament to the genius of Pierre.
Drink from 2031
2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
(Pierre et Marianne Duroché)
SOLD OUT
In some ways, this is the perfect appellation for Pierre to be making, as his style juxtaposes with the character of Clos Vougeot perhaps more than with any other appellation. On what can be quite a brooding, almost oafish Cru in the wrong hands, he manages to bring aroma, precision and even flair to the table, encouraging it to express it’s more sophisticated and cultured personality. Lots of promise here. If you’ve been a bit wary of this Cru in the past this might well be the example with which to have your epiphany.
Drink from 2032
2023 Echezeaux Grand Cru (Pierre et Marianne Duroché)
SOLD OUT
This also comes from Pierre’s father-in-law, albeit in sadly alltoo-small volumes. Still, some is better than none, especially in this vintage where Echezeaux generally has flourished. Lovely fluidity here, both aromatically and texturally and great sensuality, with luscious tannins and bright, red and blue pinpoint fruit.
Drink from 2031
Domaine
Henri Magnien
A couple of years ago, whilst driving back through the quiet roads from Amélie Berthaut’s domaine in Fixin to Gevrey-Chambertin, I had to pull over to help a cat who was wandering aimlessly in the middle of the road. I was joined shortly after by a local man, who had stopped to see if I needed any help, which I clearly did. A little while later we had managed to get the ailing cat into a box and headed off to the vet to be checked over. I got chatting to my fellow cat lover and it turns out that, like me, he was in wine, or more accurately had been until his fairly recent retirement. A bit more probing and he revealed he was none other than François Magnien, father of Charles Magnien, the current incumbent of this domaine with whom we have been working for a few years and for whom we are now the biggest global importer.
After agreeing what a small world it is, he began to talk of the great history of his family and their involvement in wine in Gevrey-Chambertin which stretched back to 1656, when the domaine was first established (a mere 368 years ago). He referenced their ‘personal clone’, Pinot Magnien, which produces small berries with a high skin to juice ratio, giving the wines an innate concentration that allows Charles to be quite delicate in his extraction. It was fascinating stuff.
François passed the pipette to Charles a decade ago now, and now the domaine bottles all of its production, with Charles having quickly established himself as one of the most thoughtful and highly talented new stars of the Côte de Nuits. His first vintage alongside his father was 2009, his first vintage in charge was 2021, and his first vintage ‘unshackled’ was 2015.
In 2018, he completed his very smart new cuverie, which gives him more space and freedom to work his magic. Except for his special cuvée, Les 4 Carac’Terres, he doesn’t really use whole bunch. A little sprinkling here and there in certain vintages just to add a touch of more
freshness is enough for him. As he says, if the nights are fairly cool leading up to the harvest then he prefers not to. Following the recent additions of some Aloxe, some Corton and some Côte de Nuits Villages, the domaine now totals eight hectares, a sizeable chunk of which is made up of the 1er Cru Cazetiers, which lies just behind the domaine.
Charles is the only vigneron to have vines in all four of the recognised soil types within Cazetiers, helping him to produce the most complete version of this wonderful appellation. Charles is as hard-working as he is passionate and it is little surprise that these two attributes, along with a great creative talent, have made him and his wines very sought after in a relatively short space of time.
Charles began harvesting on 9th September and like many domaines, he only harvested in the mornings due to the heat, although the most severe heat had dissipated by the time he finished eight days later. Pretty much all the wines came in between 13 and 13.8, with a couple nudging towards 14 degrees. Charles is absolutely delighted with the phenolic ripeness of the range which allowed him to be extra gentle with his extraction. The quality of tannins on these wines is fantastic. The smaller appellations have a gorgeous lusciousness, while the grander wines have a zest and poise coupled with a pure intensity. He didn’t do any whole bunch aside from the 4 Carac’Terres as he wanted to preserve as much acidity as possible.
It’s been quite a year for Charles, welcoming his second child into the world a few months ago after what was an exceptionally challenging year in the vineyards. But, as he prepares to release these ’23s on to the market, he can reflect on what an impressive job he has done in this vintage as he continues his journey to the top table in the Côte de Nuits.
2023 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
£126 IB - 6x75cl
There is a lot of wine in this Bourgogne, which comes from vines in Brochon, on the northern side of Gevrey. The fruit is plush and glossy yet retains good Gevrey-esque character. Drink from 2027
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages
‘Clos
F. Thurot’ Monopole
£150 IB - 6x75cl
£156 IB - 3x150cl
From next year, this will be upgraded and reclassified as a Fixin, but for now it remains a ‘humble’ Côte de Nuits offering great value. The flavour and textural profile are not that different from the wine above, which is not that surprising given the close geography of the two sites, but there is just more weight and intensity here.
Drink from 2028
2023 Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru ‘La Coutière’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
£306 IB - 3x150cl
I found my notes describing an Aloxe in a way I have never described it before: lush, energetic, fine featured. What’s going on?! Good winemaking and proper phenolic ripeness that can make even this most rustic of appellations seem noble. Fine work.
Drink from 2028
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
£228 IB - 6x75cl
£234 IB - 3x150cl
Back to Charles’ home turf and a pretty, elegant Gevrey of classicism and fresh bright fruits. No hard edges, but equally a clear linear band of energy through its heart. Savoury and tranquil.
Drink from 2029
Domaine
Henri Magnien
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
£285 IB - 6x75cl
£291 IB - 3x150cl
£225 IB - 1x300cl
This is a blend of the old vines from several parcels throughout the appellation. As one might expect, it has more power and structure, but it’s not overdone and there are some lovely aromatics to seduce the romantics out there.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Champerrier’
£315 IB - 6x75cl
£321 IB - 3x150cl
There is a reasonable amount of red clay in this vineyard which gives plenty of fruit intensity and supporting structure, though the structure remains impressively linear and compact with some nice stony undercurrents. Good energy.
Drink from 2030
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Champeaux’
£456 IB - 6x75cl
£462 IB - 3x150cl
This sees no new oak at all, just being aged in the barrels that housed the Cazetiers last year. Charles’ intention is to elongate the palate, stretching the complexity so it is less immediate but ultimately much more thrilling. He seems to have done so very successfully.
Drink from 2030
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
1er Cru ‘Estournelles Saint-Jacques’
£480 IB - 6x75cl
£486 IB - 3x150cl
£365 IB - 1x300cl
£1100 IB - 1x900cl
The soil here has a lot of marne, and is arguably more of a white wine soil. It certainly gives an electric linear streak to the wine which is full of energy and brings lovely poise and calm to the very detailed wine.
Drink from 2029
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
1er Cru ‘Lavaux St-Jacques’
£516 IB - 6x75cl
£522 IB - 3x150cl
£390 IB - 1x300cl
This is classic Lavaux. Fragrant, cool and lifted with lovely brightness and freshness throughout. Fine-boned and elegant with great detail.
Drink from 2031
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Cazetiers’
£522 IB - 6x75cl
£528 IB - 3x150cl
£385 IB - 1x300cl
£1200 IB - 1x900cl
Charles likes to present this after the Ruchottes as his grandfather always considered it the Chambertin of the cellar. Charles has a great holding of it, being the largest owner after Faiveley. He has old vines stretching across all sections of the vineyard which helps make a very complete and very complex wine. There is plenty of grip and structure to add backbone to the sensual aromatics of the juice.
Drink from 2032
Domaine Henri Magnien
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin ‘4 Carac’Terres’
£300 IB - 1x150cl
This is the tiny cuvée made from a handful of the oldest bunches of the premiers crus which are then cut by hand so only the best bits are kept. Very fragrant, very concentrated, and very limited.
Drink from 2031
2023 Corton Grand Cru ‘Les Grandes Lolières’
£504 IB - 6x75cl
£510 IB - 3x150cl
£375 IB - 1x300cl
£1200 IB - 1x900cl
This has had even more of a makeover than its neighbouring cousin. Two-thirds new oak has added a glossy veneer, but aside from its textural influence the oak stays firmly in the background. The mid palate is lush and inviting whilst structure mops up the finish in a strict but not aggressive way. This could end up being a real winner given time.
Drink from 2031
2023 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
£660 IB - 3x75cl
£450 IB - 1x150cl
£930 IB - 1x300cl
£3000 IB - 1x900cl
With similar soil to that in parts of Chambolle, this is a wonderfully classical Ruchottes that is all about finesse and elegance. There is some power but everything is very fine featured and lifted with lovely energy and great fragrance. Less is very much more in this case. One for the purists.
Drink from 2033
Domaine
Berthaut-Gerbet
These are exciting times for Amélie Berthaut, as she has recently moved back into her seriously impressive new cuverie.
Back in the day, Fixin was held in considerable regard; the best wines revered in the same way as some of the top wines from Gevrey. It has five 1er Crus: Hervelets, Arvelets, Clos du Chapitre, Clos de la Perrière and Aux Cheusots (known as the monopole, Clos Napoleon). But whilst many good producers have vines in Fixin, the village has never had a ‘poster boy’ on whom to hang its hat, in the same way as other villages.
Until now that is, and it just so happens that that ‘poster boy’ is in fact a young woman, who is immensely proud of the Fixins within her portfolio. She works really hard and, despite her ambition and ability, is very reflective about what she does and whether she has done it right. This humble, self-critical approach can only inspire her to make ever better wines, and as her star continues to rise, it will be very positive for the appellation that she loves to champion.
Amélie took over Domaine Denis Berthaut from her father over a decade ago and then added vineyards from her mother’s side of the family, so that Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet was born, with sixteen hectares to its name. She works organically, although is not currently certified. She is open to using stems, but is not systematic about it.
In 2023 Amélie began picking her reds on September 4th, having spent the morning of the 31st August picking the small amount of Chardonnay that goes into her Fixin
Blanc. Earlier in the year she had done some de-budding and then followed up with a green harvest in July but, despite these measures, she still ended up with a bigger than average vintage, it’s just a shame that the sizeable new cuverie wasn’t finished in time to receive all the fruit. Consequently, she perhaps didn’t use as much whole bunch across the range as she might have done, but given the wines have plenty of fragrance anyway and the pHs remained at a healthy level, she didn’t seem too disappointed. I thought the wines looked really terrific which is great news for anyone that loves aromatically profound and silkily textured, complex Burgundies, which is pretty much every sensible wine drinker in the world!
2023 Bourgogne ‘Les Prielles’
£174 IB - 12x75cl
No whole bunch on this cuvée that’s made from old vines in the lower part of the village. Limited extraction to maximise the fresh bright fruit character. Floral, quite delicate and very charming. All in all so delicious that it will be hard not to pull the cork too quickly.
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
£198 IB - 12x75cl
Like the previous wine this had already been bottled (in August) in order to capture all of its energetic vibrancy and clarity of fruit. This is quite a significant holding for Amélie, totalling around four hectares, she uses a mix of barriques and large foudres for ageing the wine as she doesn’t want to overstate the oak impact. Like so many wines from the Hautes-Côtes in 2023, this has embraced the warmth of the year and created a wine that’s a little richer than usual, but still with a crunchy freshness that marries just perfectly.
Drink from 2027
2023 Fixin Rouge
£300 IB - 12x75cl
MAGNUMS SOLD OUT
Like the rest of the range this was not yet bottled when I tasted in early November, but unlike some of the others it has been assembled and was pretty much ready to go. Being based in Fixin, Amélie is anxious to make great examples of her home village and her Fixins always overdeliver. No-one in the village is getting close to this kind of quality. This example is once again full of bright, crunchy fruit with a real lightness of touch and sapid sense of tension. Great, great value.
Drink from 2026
Domaine
Berthaut-Gerbet
2023 Fixin ‘Les Crais’
£180 IB - 6x75cl
Les Crais lies in the heart of Fixin, and is not to be confused with a separate lieu dit called Les Crais de Chêne, which lies to the north of the village on the border with Marsannay. The soil here is a nice mix of clay and stone, the latter bringing a nice drive to the understated power that the clay brings to the table. Well controlled and harmonious.
Drink from 2028
2023 Fixin ‘En Combe Roy’
£222 IB - 6x75cl
This small vineyard sits just below the premiers crus of Hervelets and Arvelets at the beginning of the slope. The vines are sixty years old, and the wine is really quite serious. Glossy and lush, yet with bite and structure, too. For a village wine this is remarkable.
Drink from 2028
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
£270 IB - 6x75cl
Over the years Amélie has produced various versions of Gevrey, but now that she has given back her Clos du Chézeaux (she got some vines in Lavaux instead) to Charles Van Canneyt she is just making this one blend which will feature a couple of other parcels, of which one has been replanted and is yet to reach suitable maturity. This version is mid-weight, with an emphasis on stony notes and definition rather than power and extraction.
Drink from 2028
2023 Vosne-Romanée
£300 IB - 6x75cl
£312 IB - 3x150cl
Amélie’s Vosne-based vineyards come from her mother’s side of the family and, as usual, this is especially strong aromatically with very evocative floral undertones. A little spice but again svelte tannins and very understated and harmonious.
Drink from 2028
2023 Fixin 1er Cru ‘Les Hervelets’
£342 IB - 6x75cl
2023 Fixin 1er Cru ‘Les Arvelets’
£330 IB - 6x75cl
£342 IB - 3x150cl
It seems logical to talk about these two wines together given that they sit next to each other, although the specific parcels are some distance from each other, by Burgundy’s standards, at least! Amélie seemed keen to point out just how good the Arvelets was, but on the day I tasted it was the Hervelets that was singing more harmoniously. Given she’s the one who actually makes the wines, I would very much trust her judgement, although I would add that the Hervelets, ironically, came across as the more precise and vibrant of the two, although in terms of character it tends to be the less expressive. She thinks one is great, I think the other great. Let’s presume we are both right. Which means all you have to do is buy a bit of both!
Drink from 2030
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Plantes’
£252 IB - 3x75cl
Two small separate plots of 50 and 80 years of age respectively within a very small vineyard is not conducive to big volumes, even in a vintage like ’23. The Cru sits just above the better known Chambolle Charmes, but is still very much in the heart of the appellation. The age of the vines gives the wine a richness less-often associated with Chambolle, but the touch of whole bunch has the appealingly refreshing effect of adding a little crackle of bite.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’
£300 IB - 3x75cl
Absolutely classic Suchots here and quite delicious. The fifty-year-old vines impart a gorgeous lusciousness and seductively fleshy texture all wrapped up in an intense, floral,
Domaine
Berthaut-Gerbet
discreetly spicy wrapping.
Drink from 2030
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru ‘Les Petits Monts’
£300 IB - 3x75cl
£630 IB - 3x150cl
£425 IB - 1x300cl
Remarkably, although the overall holding is quite small, there are five separate parcels which were each bought at different times. They range between 20 and 80 years of age which gives both youthful vigour and old vine intensity. As it should have, this has a very different profile to the Suchots, being much stricter and more angular with greater lift. Horses for courses, and although this is more backward, I love its sapid crunch and dynamic sense of coiled tension.
Drink from 2031
2023 Gevrey-Chambertin
1er Cru ‘Lavaux St-Jacques’
£270 IB - 3x75cl
Before Charles van Canneyt bought Domaine des Chézeaux, Amélie was renting this vineyard and paying her rent in wine. That contract was ended, but Amélie received some vines of Lavaux Saint-Jacques as compensation. It’s interesting that she harvested this parcel on day one given that Lavaux is generally known for being a colder spot. This was probably a result of the age of the vines producing lots of small berries, thus allowing full maturation to occur that bit earlier. It still possesses its tell-tale linear minerality, but also has plenty of structure and weight adding depth and interest. One for the
future.
Drink from 2032
2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
£462 IB - 3x75cl
£960 IB - 3x150cl
Even though the vines are in the lower part of this immense vineyard, Amélie manages to craft one of the best Clos Vougeot around. Her lightness of touch and extremely gentle extraction, along with a little bit of whole bunch, give the wine a winning purity and fragrance rarely seen in examples of this appellation. Bright, charming and focussed with real poise and purpose.
Drink from 2032
2023 Echezeaux Grand Cru
£480 IB - 3x75cl
More whole bunch here, up to about 50% and another cracking Echezeaux to join the others. The palate is pure blackberries and cream and the texture glossy and lush, yet with a thrilling, energetic edge from the whole bunch which lifts it beautifully. Really serious.
Drink from 2031
Domaine
Sylvain Pataille
It’s hard to know how best to describe the enigma that is Sylvain Pataille. Maverick? Maybe. Genius? Possibly. Passionate? Undoubtedly. Unique? Surely. Driven? Obviously.
All such descriptions apply, although used in isolation they don’t really get to the bones of who and how he is. There is little recent history in his family that would hint at his future métier; his parents and grandparents were not vignerons. There were vineyards in his family once, but they had all but disappeared between the two world wars. He took himself off to wine school at a young age and quickly became a trained oenologist, despite his tender years. He then had to begin piecing together a domaine that would challenge his skills and excite his curiosity. He began with a single hectare at the end of the 1990s and has since then built it up to eighteen, which is probably enough to allow him to maintain an enviable quality of wine and still have a life away from his beloved vineyards.
In fact, he would likely accept that his vineyards are what really inspires him and where his innate talents truly lie. As the old adage goes, you can’t make great wines from bad grapes! Most of his vineyards are focused on the three main varietals of Burgundy, although he clearly has a love affair with the resurgent grape variety that is Aligoté, from which he produces many different cuvées from various disparate plots.
Location wise, much of what he farms is very local, being in his much-loved home village of Marsannay, just north of Fixin. He farms a mix of vineyards he owns, rents or has contracts with to buy the fruit, but he is very
particular about the parcels he works with, and is lucky enough to have a huge proportion of not just old vines but very old vines.
In terms of vinification, he likes to keep sulphur levels as low as possible and new oak to a minimum. He uses quite a lot of whole-bunch where he feels it enhances the wine and keeps extraction light. Most wines go through a second winter of élevage, with wines spending close to two years ageing before bottling. He has become a hugely respected winemaker over the past 20 years, with an ever-increasing and loyal following who have made him and his wine somewhat cultish, in a good way!
As usual, we didn’t necessarily taste everything in the exact order it should be tasted but, also as usual, it was a great adventure!
Whites
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté
£90 IB - 6x75cl
The first of five Aligotés we buy which all seem incredibly different when tasted side by side. This one has a vibrant lemony freshness, and perhaps doesn’t have the same weight as some of the others but is a great match for some oysters thanks to its lean stony character.
Drink from 2026
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Petits Puits’
£270 IB - 6x75cl
There’s only one barrel of this made so I should probably tell you it’s rubbish! Or I could tell you the truth and let you know that vines are 100 years old and have imparted a tense minerality into the wine that is supported by impressive weight of dry extract.
Drink from 2028
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Auvonnes Au Pépé’
£210 IB - 6x75cl
On tasting this I presumed it would be from soil full of limestone, but, in fact there is a good dose of clay. Yet there is a wonderful saline quality to the wine which I also noticed last year when I tasted the ’22s so maybe the salinity runs deep in the stone.
Drink from 2028
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Charme Aux Prêtres’
£270 IB - 6x75cl
These vines are a mere 75 years old by comparison! Judging by the super clean, energetic and saline character of the wine, one would assume that that they are planted on pretty white soil. Electric and chiselled and very much one for the purist.
Drink from 2028
Domaine
Sylvain Pataille
2023 Bourgogne Aligoté ‘Clos du Roy’
£TBC
God, this is good. The vines are almost 100 years old here and have left a lot of dry extract behind them, along with some lovely reduction. Plenty of substance and very mouth-watering.
Drink from 2028
2023 Marsannay Blanc
£195 IB - 6x75cl
There is a little bit of reduction on this, too, but the fruit is bright and long and lean and fresh.
Drink from 2027
2023 Marsannay Blanc ‘Le Chapitre’
£432 IB - 6x75cl
Very white soil on a steep slope inspires a very sapid, teasingly dry and lithe palate of stone licking exoticism. Serious wine with fine pedigree.
Drink from 2029
Reds
2023 Marsannay Rouge
£165 IB - 6x75cl
There’s plenty of wine here for the money. Lovely succulent fruit with gentle tannins and, despite the ripeness of the fruit, the overall sense one feels is that this is a fine-framed wine.
Drink from 2029
2023 Marsannay ‘Clemengeots’
£255 IB - 6x75cl
Like so many of Sylvain’s wines this is far from full throttle, assuming a gentle persona with a degree of restraint. Very consistent in the mouth, yet with some lovely nuance.
Drink from 2029
2023 Marsannay ‘Les Longeroies’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
One of the vineyards seeking premier cru status which, given its reputation, will be a shoe in unless the vote is rigged. I particularly love the steely core that keeps it focused and persistent.
Drink from 2029
2023 Marsannay ‘Clos Du Roy’
£300 IB - 6x75cl
This has significantly more structure, but the residual tannins are well-knit and harmonised. Again, Sylvain has manged to tame the intensity and keep a detailed palate of refinement and length.
Drink from 2029
2023 Marsannay ‘L’Ancestrale’
£600 IB - 6x75cl
Wow, there must be a lot of small berries here as the wine is incredibly unctuous and rich. This is pretty serious stuff. The ’22 sold out very quickly and we expect this to go the same way.
