Premier Model Management Anthony Gordon Interview
Photographers
Amanda Diaz / Peter Fedrizzi
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TEAM Director Samson Ogunshe Creative Director Don Horne
Photo / Sophie Michaela
CONTENTS Cover Photo / Chris Yates 04 Editorial / Brave New Media 08 Interview / Premier Models 18 Editorial / Tribal Shore 28 Editorial / Silent Moments 38 Interview / BINTM 44 Editorial / Teddy Bears 52 Editorial / Fontange Symphony 60 Editorial / Freya Elizabeth 66 Editorial / Pink Dogma 72 Editorial / Ksfoto.net 80 Feature / Amanda Diaz 88 Editorial / Seperation 98 Editorial / Neighborhood Watch 106 Feature / Peter Fedrizzi 114 Editorial / Orange Muse 122 Article / Models of Diversity
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editorial / Brave New Media
brave new media Photography, Styling & Make-up / Sophie Michaela Hair / Casey Coleman @ Ocean Hairdressing Model / Zoey Groves Assistant / Hannah Marie Williams
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interview / Premier model management
agency spotlight Interview /
Anthony Gordon / Scout
What does a day in the life of the Scouting Director at Premier Model Agency consist of? The best part of my job is that each day is different all the time. I could be traveling to Serbia to judge a model contest, or scouring the streets of Manchester looking for new faces, or meeting up with models and their parents at the agency.
Can you tell us about the agency, some of your models and where you think it’s going in the next seven years? Premier has been up and running for over 30 years, and represented virtually all of the biggest names in the business. Our new wave of models is very exciting and includes Lara Mullen, Julia Nobis, Marine Deleeuw, Chloe Norgaard, Sasha Luss, Elena Bartels, Juliana Schurig, Maria Borges and Ruby Jean Wilson. It is very exciting to help build their careers, and in seven years time… who knows where they’ll be!? That is 14 seasons away.
It is often said that a model should have a good personality. What do you think are the traits required for a good personality? The most inspiring models to work with are the ones that have a true appreciation for the opportunity offered to them instead of complaining about the long hours and crazy flights. They need to have a strong work ethic and ability to see the bigger picture with their own careers.
Premier Model Management is one of the world’s leading model agencies, what are the major reasons for your success? I think Premier’s success stems from knowing that relationships in the industry are very important, both with the models and the clients. Another key factor is discovering and nurturing your own talent. Home-grown British models are the best!
The fashion industry itself changes at a rapid pace, how have Premier been able to keep up with the constant change? There are changes season to season yes, but fundamentally, the basics of a great model have been the same for decades. Tall, slim, stunning face and incredible personality will do it year after year.
What type of decisions does Premier Model Agency have difficulty making when it comes to scouting or releasing a Model? The hardest thing for me is knowing when to let go. So many success stories come later in models careers, but there is a pressure to turn them into stars within their first season, or their moment has passed. I personally enjoy helping a model grow and develop over the years, but it can be very time consuming and it takes a lot of energy to keep a career going.
If you could offer an aspiring model one piece of advice, what would it be? Understand what your role is. You are meant to make clothes look the best they can look, and inspire people to buy them. If you understand that, then a lot of the personal stuff (that can cause insecurity in the business) falls away.
How does the agency promote healthy body image? Well, it is actually quite simple. If you eat healthily and exercise on a regular basis, the result will be a slim toned body that is ideal for modelling. This will make you healthier than 90% of the population. The problem is, many models look for the short cut, but this is the only way I promote it.
Premier has represented some of the world’s most successful models, including Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Claudia Schiffer. Who do you think is the next big name in this industry? It is a different time. That Supermodel era was unique and incredible, but it hasn’t been matched. Once those models started earning those figures, celebrities began to tap into it which effectively halted the vehicle that was launching “supermodel” careers. There are only a few names since this time that are household names, and it is usually because they dated famous or did something infamous.
What type of decisions do you have difficulty making when it comes to scouting or Only a small percentage of non Caucasian models were hired in 2012. Naomi Campbell has releasing a model? often complained about the lack of diversity or insufficient diversity in the fashion industry. When it comes to scouting the most obvious requirements are height and measurements of course. The face has to be Looking through premier’s website you represent different models of different ethnicities. interesting. Not necessarily beautiful in a popular way. I have to see “something” in the girl (or boy). Sometimes the very When think seeand more different ethnicities during fashion week? beautifuldo and you interesting girl we is justwill too short I havemodels a dilemma of if I should try to invest in her counting of her nice face, risking with the law height or not. As for releasing a model – we try to be as much aware as we can about the particular This is a very topic. I personally don’t seehave colour when I am scouting. someone is strikingitto me andup has the right country andcomplicated market requirements, so I usually don’t many difficulties here. OfIf course sometimes showed that measurements, I will offer them a place at the agency. It is then the designers, photographers and editors who are choosing the I was wrong, that the trends suddenly have changed etc., but there is always something to do to fix the problematic situmodels to appear in their various mediums. Then there is the consumer who demands certain looks and only buys from certain ation. models. A lot of brands do extensive research with their client base to see what sells, and hire models according to their findings. The other issue is to take a look at the question, “What is ethnic?” Is it a shade of skin, or a geographic region, or a particular race we are talking about? Technically, we are all of an “ethnic” origin as the term is used to base common culture or nationality. Even Would your models describe you as the kind of agent who goes the extra mile? the term Caucasian does not denote skin colour as it includes populations in Europe, North Africa, Western/Central/South Asia, the Middle East and the Horn of Africa. There were models from over 20 different countries in the Prada line up this season which included Japan, Martinique, Lativia, Italy, Brazil and China. That is quite diverse! I think so I always try to make more effort than it is expected. And that is what I teach my models. The market is so competitive nowadays that besides doing what you should to be successful you need to create bigger goals than expected, look further than others and of course like your job. I love mine! GAGA has been created by myself from the very beginning and is a huge part of my life and that is why I can’t imagine treating what I do only as a daily routine or a Lastly any upcoming projects should look outthan for? tiring responsibility. And - that is why I we just can’t act differently going the extra mile. Well, I wish I could tell you about them now, but we have three STAR girls coming up the ranks at Premier right now, but they are still too young for us to start promoting publicly. One will make her debut next season, and the two others will make an appearance in the SS 2014 shows, so watch closely for that.
www.gaga.pl
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editorial / Tribal Shore editorial / ksfoto.net
KRISTOFFER Skjรฆringrud ksfoto.net Model / valerie Hair / sandra nirbrant Makeup / sonja christin pedersen & moa Engstrรถm
Tribal shore Photographer / E-Jane Fashion Stylist / Lacey Bannister Dress / Straight-Laced Boutique Make-up Artist / Belle Elgaziel Hair Stylist / Jeru Weaver (Avital Beauty Lounge) Model / Lizzie Gunst Assistants / Johanna Aquino and Visarut Teerawatvichaikul
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editorial / Silent Moments
silent moments Photography / Chris Yates Assistant / Paul O’Connell Model / Katy K - Lenis Model Management Model / Katy K - Beth Jones Hair & Makeup / Nisso International - Gemma Horner Stefanjia Vektere - Anna Romanekova
Dress / Rinaree London
Dress / Rinaree London
Dress / Katayoon London
Dress / Rinaree London - Hair Accessory / Anathema Designs
Dress / Katayoon London
Dress / Katayoon London
Dress / Rinaree London
Dress / Rinaree London
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interview / Diona Doherty
Britain & Ireland's
Next Top Model Diona Doherty / interview
Were you a model before entering Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model? How did you become interested in modelling? Before entering the house I was with Dublin modelling agency 1st option model management. I then had to leave the agency in order to do the show. I had plenty of modelling experience before hand. I had always had a huge interest in fashion and I’ve always been a creative person and with my height etc it seemed like a natural pathway. I had always been into performance and craved being in front of a camera, to be creative, so modelling seemed good for me. I started when I was at university and it was a handy part time job. I started in Belfast and when I got an agent in Dublin I worked there too. My first job booked through 1st option flew me to Italy which was amazing. And from then I knew I wanted to travel as I worked.
What prompted you to sign up for Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model? I have always been a fan of the show and I knew a girl that auditioned the year before but didn’t get through but I couldn’t go as I had university exams to sit. Then last year after I graduated I felt that it was the perfect time to take on a challenge. And curiosity killed me of wondering if I would get through even the first round of castings. And I did. The only girl from Northern Ireland to even get to top 100 this year.
Were you shocked when Elle didn’t call your name out to be going into the Top Model house? The whole build up to my elimination I felt like I was going. I felt like I hadn’t been able to show my true modelling ability at all and on top of that Elle questioned whether I loved acting more than modelling which to be honest is a kiss of death in the top model world. From then I knew I wasn’t going to last. The judges were lovely and the show was amazing and getting to go to London and Dubai for filming was just another world all together. But I felt my time on top model was utilised well. It highlighted for me my love of the acting world. With an ability to be even more creative. In saying that as soon as I left the show I was modelling non-stop for months and have now this year been able to get more involved back into the acting world which is great. I try to juggle both and do as much of each as I can. But I know when I’m 50 I will still be able to act but not model. There’s longevity in that. So in a way not making it further in the competition than I did worked better for me as I wouldn’t like to think I’d be typecast for auditions or find it harder to get acting roles if I was always going to be ‘the girl from BINTM’.
Did of thetojudges giveown you fashion advice? styling career, what You any decided start your or who pushed you to make such a move? Tyson told me that it was very possible to climb the ladder of both the modelling world and the acting world as both he and Elle have done so but that I need to decide which one I conquer first that’ll lead me into the next one. I took his advice on It was a natural progression; I was getting frustrated in college when designing board as it makes most sense. as it took so long to get to the fiished product and I like seeing results quickly not waiting months. But loved doing photoshoots with all the collections so the fashion history tutor suggested I pursue a different path In Did you have a favourite So judge? fashion styling or photography. I applied to London College of Fashion and got into a post-graduate course in Fashion Media, which had a strong emphasis Julian was my favourite He my was skills, very funny on styling. It was there judge. I honed got aand job didn’t after take in a himself top London too seriously. He actually in onafter top of me during one of my to shoots Boutique as manager andjumped stylist and 6 months moved back Ireland to so I’mfreelance sure the styling outtakes that will beand funny. start forofmagazines TV. I also got to wear some of his designs at Belfast Fashion Week last season and his collection for Debenhams is beautiful.
What is the most interesting part of your job and why? have ofany advice for girlspartwanting enter the and IDo loveyou all aspects my job… My favourite has to be to fashion editorials campaigns though as you see creative collaborations come to life in print. competition? The competition is a fantastic platform for any aspiring model. However the experience is extremely intense and thereSkinny are a lotJeans, of psychological Some of your client include Hello! BT2, Brown evaluations to go through before getting on to the show. It is difficult and Thomas, Penneys, River Island, Adidas and Fran & Jane, how you sped a lot of time in front of a camera and vulnerable as well as away do and However maintainthegreat relationships with fromyou yourmake loved ones. experience is invaluable and major I have met lifelong friends form the show. I would definitely recommend it but clients? only if you’re a strong soul that can take rejection and criticism along with the compliments and publicity. You need to have a business head aswell as a creative one. I work closely with the owners and PRs of the brands and work with their needs and requests. If you deliver a job to their specification then you get the repeat business. Simple As.
What was your best moment on BINTM? Where do you find inspiration from when choosing colour & style combination for a I think I speak for all top 20 girls when I say finding out we were particular fashion show or a fashion photo shoot?
being flown to Dubai in week1 at our first fashion show in London. It completely out ofand themost blue and unexpected fly so many Everywhere! It depends on the season , the brief, thewas mood, the concept importantly the to client and the of us to the other side of the world. The whole thing never really sunk until we got audience. For example: U magazine shoots would have more highstreet fashion, appeal to an age group of 20 in – 35, there but it is a feeling I will never forget. be bright and fun, and be on the pulse of fashion trends. Then say it’s a March Issue you might incorporate pastels or an Easter theme. It s very much dependent on so many factors as to where you pull your inspiration from.
Which was your favourite challenge or photo shoot? You appear as a regular fashion contributor on top TV3 entertainment shows; “Xpose” & For our second shoot we had been given an Elle mail that suggested we “Ireland AM” and you seem to work withwere so much elegance and aHowever sense of that puts to be shooting on camels. thecalm weather wasn’t permitting everyone at ease, including the audience! On one this and is just being weren’t professional andsoawe did as there was alevel, sandstorm the camels allowed out ‘Arabian night’ themed shoot. The styling and we very essential quality for a good stylist. Isanthis something you’ve worked at was overamazing the years orshot in the Atlantis hotel in Dubai which was so picturesque. There were so many it’s who you are off camera? And what other qualities do you think are essential? people gathered watching and taking our photos so we felt like instant celebrities. Why thank you!! I am just me on camera, I’m not acting I am just describing a look I put together so it all comes very naturally. Obviously I used to be nervous when I first started but I have been doing it over four years now so I am comfortable on camera and know the presenters I work with so its easy to come across well on screen.
You’re currently in a comedy sketch group called FNT live and you just created the biggest Hoax on the internet by faking a Nordie Shore tell us a bit more what this is all about? It’s the show that the whole nation has been talking about. Over 20,000 people had registered interest in the show in just three days and twitter was on fire with rumours of who was involved. But it all started by accident, a parody by comedy group FNT Live. The stunt even reached MTV with the broadcaster being rung daily by curious journalists. The cross-community group had support from Jennifer Saunders, Tyson Beckford, Sisqo and even Channel Four. We made a Geordie Shore parody named Nordie Shore. When we posted on facebook that we were filming it, people immediately thought it was real. We were blown away and decided to see where it went. I look at the emails and saw people in New York, LA, and even Africa trying to find out more about when the show was on. This was going mad! The group are still riding high on the back of their Fringe Festival success were searching for a way to get more fans online, this was a gift that fell into their hands. It’s refreshing to have something coming out of Belfast which isn’t about the riots or violence. The funny thing is it was all filmed in East Belfast during the trouble; we had to try and film around the sirens and helicopters! But this is just comedy, it’s made well and it’s funny, and no politics. To date we have almost 400,000 hits on our first mini episode and over 60,000 on the freshly released 2nd episode and still climbing.
You’re an actress and currently doing the northern Irish tour of Blood Brothers Theatre. Can you explain to us what this is about? Blood Brothers is a very famous play by playwright Willy Russell and I’m currently playing Mrs Lyons in the NI Tour of the show throughout February and March. I have a great love and respect for the play as I studied it in school so it brings back lovely memories. After that I’m also working with channel 4 as part of FNTLive in developing a sitcom and we are filming the first teaser As a episode fashion indesigner youanmust possess mini March. It’s exciting time. a highly creative This stagnant decay of times past needs to be rejuvenated and ambitious flair. This field of work requires intense and with creativity and allure. Designers who stand out are the long hours. Personal attributes, such as a competitive streak, risk-takers of the industry; those who stay true to their sense What are the biggest differences you’ve experienced between Modelling and acting? enhance the drive, ambition and professionalism of identity and personal style. Designers such as Alexander I love both industries. I love fashion and instant images and being able to create shapes with clothes and experimenting with required to work to client deadlines and work in stressful, McQueen and Vivienne Westwood have easily identifiable, makeup looks. I also love the challenge of playing another person and doing that justice. I have studied performing arts and have challenging atmospheres. In order to achieve a high degree of and thus admirable, trademark visual elements which reflect a drama degree so it was a natural pathway. I have a love for comedy acting and feel that is my niche. It’s unusual for a model to success in this significant segment of the fashion their personal taste in each of their collections. If you be a comedy actress as it’s normally associated with the likes ofwant Jo Brand, being a female I like to think to stand out againstcomedian. the grainBut you must pushthat thethe industry, you must possess strong drawing, sketching and audiences can see past me as a fashion model and look at the character I’m playing on stage. I actually play the more grotesque presentation skills. You must be able to visualise the garment you boundaries while staying true to your own personal style. characters best. Recently I have been offered my own radio show based in Belfast which is a whole new avenue and something wish to create and capture this imagined silhouette successfully I’m going to throw myself into. on paper. A good designer will be able to envision the In order to progress in this field, you must research and manner in which the garment sits on the body and will have develop an in-depth knowledge of designers, fashion a vast knowledge and true understanding of textures, industry experts and media relations and understand the What plans for the future? coloursare andyour fabrics. Contemporary fashion has settled fashion forecast. As a designer you need to possess Ideally with FNTLive we would love to be on the likes of communication channel four or skills, RTE to have our own TV series excellent not only forvery self-promotion into a rose-tinted love-affair with the commissioned past. In recent similar to Saturday night live. Wave definitely worked hard enough. Soon enough I intend to get back down to Dublin modelling and liaising at social events, but also for engaging in years retro and vintage clothing and accessories have so I will look into a new agency there soon. In the future I’d like to move to Manchester with my partner Sean Hegarty, who is a team-work. In order to create a dynamic group work taken the fashion world by storm. This nostalgic regurgitation stand up comedian. Together we’d like to crack the industry there. And who knows where it could all lead. ethic and mindset, you must be able to dictate their of a previous era’s trends, fads and elements of dress has revision and techniques in a simple and well-conducted sulted in a static form of reinvention. manner. This may seem basic but, in reality, it is a characteristic many struggle with.
Fashion Designer
Model As a fashion model you are almost like a human form of branding, consumerism and marketing. Models are carefully selected to front campaigns, pose for editorials or model clothes on the runway. Each designer, photographer and magazine has a certain ‘look’ they associate with their brand, which they like to maintain to create a sense of cohesion. If you wish to be a catwalk model you must generally be of a certain height and weight in order to fit into sample size clothing. The usual minimum height for catwalk modelling is 5’ 9”, the dress size is UK 6-8 and the weight (according to height) is 108-130 lbs. These measurements are a high preference in the fashion industry; a very small percentage of ‘short’ models will be as lucky as Kate Moss and achieve non-catalogue modelling shoots. In the modelling industry, the desired measurements are 34B-24-34 and the measurement of the waist should be no more than 25 inches. However the introduction of plus-size models has expanded with designers such as Mark Fast using ‘normal’ female figures to showcase his collections on the catwalk. Curvier models such as Daisy Lowe and Crystal Renn have gained a large number of contracts in recent years. Despite this, the androgynous ‘size zero’ trend still reigns supremacy but campaigns such as Victoria’s Secret prefer models with feminine curves. The most important thing for you to remember while trying to gain entry to the fashion world is to remain physically and mentally healthy.
If you want to gain entry in to the high-fashion modelling arena, then you must take the time to analyse editorial campaigns, advertisements and high-fashion spreads. This is important since there are certain poses required for differently styled shoots. A popular look is the brokendown-doll trend which elongates the body and creates an unusual, albeit eye-catching, composition. As a model you need to know how to catch the light to complement bone-structure. You must be aware of complementary angles in relation to your own figur and the clothing you are promoting. To become a successful model you are required to be personable and friendly since you need to impress clients and be able to communicate easily with the photographer to achieve a good shot. You must take pride in your appearance and dress to suit your figure and keep up-to-date with fashion trends. First impressions are key in this industry and designers appreciate clean, glowing skin and fresh hair. A simple black fitted tee-shirt, jeans and high-heels flaunt the figure; a must-have outfit for casual meetings with modelling agencies. One word of advice is to keep your hair back if you have good bone structure and keep your makeup natural. Similar to other occupations in the fashion world, models that network and create contacts will, more often than not, go further than those who avoid doing so.
www.aliciatomzak.com
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editorial / Teddy Bears
Teddy bears Photographer / Catherine Laura Stylest - Art Director / Taheed Khan Makeup / Temi Aboderin / Laura Viana Watson Hair Stylist / Rick Roberts Model / Sophie Bailey @ Boss Model Management Model / Zara Syrett @ PA Angels Assistant / Danielle Fitzgerald
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editorial / Fontange Symphony
fontange symphony Photographer / Karolina Kotkiewicz Stylest / Karolina Kotkiewicz Makeup / Sharon Lumsden Hair Stylist / Jenn Mathieson Model / Magda Zalejska @Magteam Model Model / Jamie Hillen Assistant / Ryszard Malarz
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editorial / Freya Elizabeth
Freya Elizabeth Make up & hair / Lara Quinn Stylist / Molly King Model / Julia Durham @ Busy Models
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editorial / Pink Dogma
pink dogma
Photographer / Mila Gorordnitchenko Make up & hair / Olga Petrenko Stylist / Elena Boon Model / Josja
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editorial / Ksfoto.net
KRISTOFFER SkjĂŚringrud ksfoto.net Hair & Make-up / Maren Kobbervik Styling / Sunniva Hartgen Assistant / Henrik Johansen Model / Lisa Henrietta @ Team Models
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photographer / Amanda Diaz
Featured
Photographer
Amanda Diaz Location / Edmonton website / www.amandadiaz.com Facebook / facebook.com/AmandaDiazphotography
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editorial / Separation
Separation Designer / Umit Kutluk Photographer / Dylan Hansard Camera Assistant / Videographer / Niall O’Farrel Stylist / Joanne Costello Hair Stylist / Edel Simpson Makeup Artist / Oksana Slipchenko Models / Courtney Wilson & Brian Ormond Murphy @ Distinct Location / Maldron Hotel, Smithfield
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editorial / Neighborhood Watch
neighborhood watch Photographer / Nicholas Wolson Make up & hair / Kristina Raeleen Stylist / Anna Ignatenko Model / Malene Jensen - Unique Models
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photographer / Peter Fedrizzi
Featured
Photographer
Peter Fedrizzi Location / Galway, Ireland website / www.peterfedrizzi.com
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editorial / Orange Muse
Organge Muse Photographer / Michael Trozzolo
Photographer’s Assistant / Fabio Gallo Model / Rebecca Celeste Kwan (Fulcher Agency) Fashion Stylist / Marsha K. Hart Make-Up & Hair Stylist / Stefanie Smith
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article / Models of Diversity
models of diversity Natalie Pencille
Since shows like Trinny and Susannah and the Gok Wan collectives took off, embracing who we are has become embedded in our subconscious. Now routing through our wardrobes, reassessing the way we look and appreciating our bodies has been a positive reawaken from being told ‘thin was in’. But where one show stops, another format embracing this concept must take its place and this is where Models of Diversity has chosen to take the baton and run with it. The aim of Models of Diversity is pretty clear from their name, they want to shake up and change the look of the modelling industry. Without losing the finesse of what it takes to be a model, Models of Diversity aims are to supply the demand for proper representation of the masses. Angel Sinclair, herself (the founder) was at the forefront of the new phenomena, modelling on one of Gok’s fashion shows in 2008. Seeing the lack of variety in age, height, race and disabled models, the concept of ‘Models of Diversity’ was born. Along side Angel Sinclair and co-founder Sal Williams, the team itself is compromised of those who have more than enough experience in the fashion industry to know the barriers aspiring models will or have experienced, only this time they have a supportive network championing for their needs. The platform for models typically follows one rule of thumb, making it harder for would-be models to break through. Modelling itself has many fooled, it takes a hard working professional, with a charismatic personality, to be a model and with so many being rejected because of pre-conceptions, a change was a must.
Already Models of Diversity has a list of models, designers and celebrities a like including model Tyson Beckford backing the cause, and the support continues to grow. The fashion industry itself has only now started picking up it’s feet, to get up to speed with plus size models with Brazil noticeably taking charge, not only by turning heads with their audacious catwalk show, but by also swinging the debate in the other direction and pointing out that balance in all areas is key. All that’s needed now is the support of those in charge of supplying the images used to endorse products and services. The organisations desire to promote more plus size models, increase the awareness of disabled models, and challenge our notion of beauty, with endorsing more ethnic models on the catwalk and fashion pages, means that no one is no longer left out, although they’ll still remain the most beautiful amongst us!
What drew my attention was the buzz and excitement I felt about being apart of something new and inspiring. So many people working with and for Models of Diversity have a passion to bring forth new ideas and energy. The clothes will always look great and continue to change with the times, it’s our minds that could do with a seasonal change and I think we’re more than ready for it. Article by / Natalie Pencille for Models of Diversity Photos by / Jean-Christophe Hermier / www.jchermier.com
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