I L A R I A G A M B I - A L E X E Y C O P I N - G I U S E P P E VA C C A R O - J A S O N L A S S W E L L
K AT E LY N N AC O N - G U O M A N L I AO - L E O D E V E N E Y - C H E N G P O O U YA N G
ISSUE 17
T he
Mo der n Nost a lg ia
E d it ion
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Dear Readers, The history of fashion is a history of people. They are the foundation of the industry as we know it now. In this issue’s theme, we wanted to see the modern vision of the past century nostalgia through the eyes of artistic individuals. The past has made us who we are. It has modeled us inside out. In this issue, we wanted to remember and feel. Brenda Odria writes about the story behind why pants and a blazer are a feminist icon in our modern days. In our cover story, our fashion editor Lindsay Cooper interviews Katelyn Nacon, a talented actress who’s let us peek in her vision of success and the growing ache associated with change. Travel in time with us in these beautiful editorials inspired from the past era, from the 30s to now, with a contemporary twist.
Sarah-Eve Leduc Editor-in-Chief
The Modern Nostalgia Edition Issue 17 Founder / Editor-in-Chief Sarah-Eve Leduc
Art Director Garrett Naccarato Director of Marketing Sarah-Eve Leduc Copy Editor Michael Bloom Fashion Editor Lindsay Cooper CONTRIBUTORS
Writers Brenda Odria, Linsday Cooper
Artists Katelyn Nacon Photographers Guoman Liao, Ilaria Gambi, Leo Deveney, Cheng Po Ou Yang Alexey Kopin, Giuseppe Vaccaro, Jason Lasswell General Inquiries, Press & Marketing info@flanellemag.com
Social Facebook: flanellemag Instagram: @flanellemagazine Pinterest: flanellemag Online and Print submissions www.flanellemag.com/contribute flanellemag.com
Cover : Cover by Leo Deveney
Index
6 Grace of Solitude 18 Misty 30 Can’t Be Undone 46 Seasons 56 A la Mer 64 The History of the Power Suit 66 Sandra 72 Nocturnal Animal
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Grace of Solitude
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Photographer
Stylist
Hair
Makeup
Model
Cheng Po Ou Yang
Saem Xu
Weic Lin
Meng Shu Lee
Coca Huang
Coat C+plus SERIES; Bodysuit Florentina Leitner; Earring YVMIN;
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Right - Suit C+plus SERIES; Top LADO BOKUCHAVA; Skirt C+plus SERIES; Earring YVMINI; Left - Jacket SIRLOIN; Top C+plus SERIES; Dress BanXiaoXue; 9
Left - Coat C+plus SERIES; Bodysuit Florentina Leitner; Earring YVMIN; Right - Coat C+plus SERIES; Dress BanXiaoXue; 10
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Left - Dress LADO BOKUCHAVA; Earring YVMIN; Right - Suit C+plus SERIES; Top LADO BOKUCHAVA; Skirt C+plus SERIES; Earring YVMIN; 12
Dress C+plus SERIES;
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Shirt Just Cavalli; Shorts Just Cavalli; Earring YVMIN;
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Coat C+plus SERIES; Dress BanXiaoXue;
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Jacket C+plus SERIES; Scarf SIRLOIN; 17
Misty
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Photographer
Stylist
Hair
Makeup
Model
Jason Lasswell
Shelley Young
Michiko Boorberg
Blair Petty
Misty Downs
Coat Wan Hung; Hat Gucci;
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Left - Shoes FILA;
Right - Sweater Calvin Klien 205W39NYC; Chaps Cheng; Underwear Agent Provocateur; 20
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Top & dress Calvin Luo; Rings Queenie Cao; Shoes FILA;
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Left - Dress AREA; Top Victoria Hayes; Rings Queenie Cao; Boots Riscostru; Right - Top & dress Calvin Luo; Rings Queenie Cao; Shoes FILA;
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Tube Dress AREA; Top Victoria Hayes; Rings Queenie Cao; Boots Riscostru;
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Dress PH5; Sleeves Calvin Klien 205W39NYC;
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Top & bottom Off-White; Underwear Calvin Klein; Rings Queenie Cao;
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Can’t Be Undone 30
Photographer
Hair Stylist
Leo Deveney
Darine Sengseevong
Stylist
Model
Anna Schilling
Katelyn Nacon
Makeup Artist
Text by
Heather Rae Cheszek
Lindsay Cooper
“’Undone’ is really about when someone in your life has fallen apart–whether they left your life or have passed away–and that feeling of loss. Feeling of being there because it’s coming out and trying to rebuild from there.” “Undone” is Katelyn Nacon’s first single, but you’re more likely to know her as Enid from The Walking Dead. If you don’t, you might be surprised to learn the actress/singer/songwriter is only 19 years old. She may be young, but her long history in musical theatre grants her the experience necessary for both her acting and music careers and her old soul allows her to effectively execute both a heart wrenching ballad and her performance as a tortured, post-apocalyptic teenager. Following our photo shoot with Nacon in Los Angeles, we had the chance to speak with her about finding success at a young age and the growing pains associated with change. Do you remember the first character or movie that made you want to start acting? Honestly, I’d have to say my favourite movie when I was a kid was Beauty and the Beast. I always wanted to be Belle. But, I mean there were so many movies that I would just watch over and over again like Grease, Sound of Music, Wizard of Oz. I had a few staple movies that I would constantly watch and most of them were musicals. Would you ever want to tap into your past in musical theatre and do musicals now? It’s funny, I was never over the top enough for theatre. You always have to be bigger and bolder because you’re on stage and it needs to be portrayed to the audience in the back. But I think once I found on screen they were like “oh no, everything has to be more subtle and a little more toned down.” And that was perfect. I love that. And speaking of your transition into television: The Walking Dead is filmed in Georgia, where you grew up. Do you get to go home a lot? I was born and raised in Georgia. My mom is from Georgia, her whole side of the family is, and it’s absolutely amazing to be able to work in my home state. I didn’t have to move anywhere. I could just stay in my same house, go to my same school and stay in touch with all my friends too. And what’s the life biggest change you’ve had to deal with going from high school student to professional actor? The most major way my life has changed where I’m a lot happier because I’ve been given a wonderful chance to do what I love. So I would say that’s probably about the only thing that’s changed. I get to do amazing work and I’m completely grateful for that. Other than that, I don’t know if there’s been much of a change. I’ve tried very hard not to change in any way. I still kind of live the same way that I did before. 31
Dress Epuzer; Shoes United Nude;
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Top Maria Hoermanseder;
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Dress MA RA MI; Shoes United Nude; 35
“Every time I go over to my parents’ house I feel like we’re watching old home movies.”
So maybe you don’t have a lot to be nostalgic for personally yet, but this is for our Nostalgia issue, so can you tell me a bit about what your character in the show is most nostalgic for? Enid is definitely yearning for her parents. I think there’s so much you don’t realize you have with someone until they’re gone. Just the little things. When I was filming the scene where Enid lost her parents, I just kept remembering happy memories that I had of my parents when I was a kid. Just silly little things. You take them for granted in the moment, but when those opportunities are taken away from you, that’s all you can think of. Can you think of one item that you think will make you feel that pang of longing for this era in your life in 10 or 20 years? My roommate is getting married soon, so it’ll probably either be the bracelet that she gave all the bridesmaids or my bridesmaid’s dress. I’ve been living with her for almost two years, so I want to remember the friendship that I’ve had with her. I’m sure those will definitely be some of them.
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Do you have something right now in your life that you go to when you’re looking to indulge in your nostalgic side? Something that makes you feel that way about a time past? Every time I go over to my parents’ house I feel like we’re watching old home movies. It’s so calming and even if we’ve seen the same video 20 times it’s just so great to look back and think about growing up and having those connections and those times with my parents that you don’t necessarily get as much as a grown up because you have to deal with taxes and all that other stuff. That would definitely be it. Old home videos and photos and everything like that. With this theme of nostalgia, as much as it’s about looking back and the past I think it’s also kind of like making progress and looking to the future. What does that look like for you? A lot of chaos. Not in a bad way, but just because as an actor, everything is decided last minute. You can’t really make plans. You’re just kind of hanging onto your seat, going on for the ride. A lot of it will be a little unknown, but the main thing I want to see in my future is happiness and being surrounded by people that I care about. That’s my main goal, honestly. And I think that is for about everyone. Just, no matter how surrounded by chaos I am, just finding tiny little moments of happiness with people I care about.
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Shirt, belt & skirt Maria Hoermanseder; Shoes United Nude;
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Dress Epuzer; Shoes United Nude;
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Left - Top Maria Hoermanseder ; Right - Dress Epuzer; Hat Stylist’s Own;
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Full look Amorphose;
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Left - Dress Nadya Dzyak; Earrings Anemone; Right - Jacket & Dress AMG; Earrings Anemone; 46
Seasons Photographer Alexey Kopin Stylist Daria Balabueva Makeup Artist Anastasia Steblich Model Oxana Zubko Stylist Daria Balabueva
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Dress Nadya Dzyak; Earrings Anemone; Boots Zara;
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Dress Flow The Label; Earrings rassvrtstore;
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Left - Shirt & dress AMG; Earrings Anemone; Boots Zara; Right - Dress & coat AMG; Earrings Anemone;
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Left - Dress & coat AMG; Earrings Anemone; Right - Jacket & top AMG; Earrings Anemone;
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Jacket & Dress AMG; Earrings Anemone;
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Jacket & Dress AMG; Earrings Anemone;
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Ă€ La Mer
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Photographer
Stylist
Assistant
Hair & Makeup
Model
Ilaria Gambi
Erika Guerrisi
Ilenia Cirone
Letizia Pecchia
Becca Horn (Monster Management)
Left - Hat Isabel Benenato; Jacket Fabiana Ferri;
Right - Jacket & trousers Calcaterra; Shoes What For; 57
Dress Isabel Benenato; Earrings Rosantica;
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Dress Guy Laroche;
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Sweater Isabel Benenato; Trousers ALYSI; 60
Jumper Annakiki;
Sweater Annakiki; Skirt Alysi; Jacket Ahirain; 61
Shirt Alysi; Trousers Erica Iodice;
Jacket Patrizia Pepe; Trousers Beatrice B; Shoes What For; 62
Rollneck Giliberto Xalzolari; Jumper Lamberto Losani;
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The History of the Power Suit Text by
Brenda Odria
The Story Behind Why Pants and a Blazer are a Feminist Icon
The Power Suit is a feminist symbol that embodies how a woman can “dress for success”; a way that fashion can assist in standing equal to the male counterpart. Arguably, the first appearance of “power dressing” was In the 19th century. Popular terminology surfaced in the “New Woman”, used to refer to women seeking radical change. It had a significant impact on early feminism, as it painted women who exercised control over their lives. The most significant impact being the suffragette movement in the 19th century to gain democratic rights, where opportunities in career and education were increasing due to the industrialization of the West. In 1870 women in profession only made up 6.7% of the workforce. These women were categorized as pant wearing and bike riding, obviously. Depicted in caricatures as wearing pants, and smoking cigarettes since it was “male attire.” In the 1920s Coco Chanel made history by designing a suit consisting of a jacket and a skirt, referring to it as the new “woman’s uniform.” During World War one, women had to take on the jobs left vacant by men and employment of women rose significantly. When the men returned the women were expected to return home, and leave the jobs for the men. This injustice left women with the desire to brand themselves as professional working women, such an example was Coco Chanel. In the post war era, she is credited with emancipating women from what was referred to as the “corseted silhouette” and bringing sporty style to the forefront of fashion. In the signature Chanel suit, she employed what were traditionally masculine features with comfortable and flexible fabric that allowed mobility; this allowed women to be seen as authoritative figures. 64
The Power Suit is a feminist symbol that embodies how a woman can “dress for success”; a way that fashion can assist in standing equal to the male counterpart.
Although it was initially criticized, it was the only option women had for workwear at the time and functioned to encourage women to hold onto their new independent lifestyles, by this time employment of women had risen to 46.7%. By the 1980s the power suit was thriving, suits were now incorporated into social wear. As new trends emerged in levi jeans and corduroy pants as well. The power suit was now regarded as a tool for women to establish themselves in a world dominated by men. The term power dressing was coined to analyze how fashion functions within the relationship between the social system and the negotiation of power. The manual by John T. Molloy “Women: Dress for success” was published in 1980, this suggested the presence of a gendered dress code. This recommended power dressing for women, in order to acquire power in the workplace. It was usually a jacket with padded shoulders, and to de-emphasize the breasts. While the skirt was a reminder of femininity, accessorized with delicate jewellery like pearls. Employing muted prints and colors like navy pinstripes, or black and white houndstooth. It was only during the second half of the 1980s that allowed for more feminine garments to be used, no longer was it necessary for women’s clothing to imitate men’s. 2018 has blessed us with new takes on the Chanel suit, Nicolas Ghesquiere of Louis Vuitton states his show was “just about dressing women to empower them”, due to the current climate surrounding women. Despite the shift and progress in both feminism and the power suit, we still need them both.
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Sandra Photographer Guoman Liao Makeup and Hair QIang Choi Stylist Lia Jing
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Left - Full look Nisiss; Right - Full look - Seraphsin;
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Full look - VOINGE; 68
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Left - Full look Seraphsin; Right - Full look - VOINGE;
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Nocturnal Animal Photographer/Producter Giuseppe Vaccaro Creative Director Ivano Mansueto Stylist Giorgia Melis Hair & Makeup Alena Trigolosova Set Designer Stefania Loschi Producer Commonuncommon Model Anna Valeyeva
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Dress ARchivio; Shoes United Nude;
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Left - Dress Archivio; Right - Coat & Jacket SAMSØE & SAMSØE;
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Skirt Circus Hotel; Shirt Miasuki; 76
Sweater Miasuki;
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Sweater Miasuki; Skirt Eleven Village; 78
Earrings SeeMe Org; Coat Les Benjamins;
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Dress Vintage; Earrings & shoes H&M; Dress Anouki; 80
Sweater Les Benjamins;
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GUOM A N L I AO ILA R IA GA MBI LEO DEVENEY ALEXEY COPIN C H E N G P O O U YA N G K A T E LY N N A C O N G I U S E P P E VA C C A R O JASON L ASSW E L L
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