A promotional feature for Le Gruyère AOC John Webb (right) with Roger von Mühlenen and his son Walo
Raw milk traditions A new trophy recognising an ancient tradition is presented by one of the cheese industry’s most influential characters.
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t last November’s World Cheese Awards at the BBC Good Food Show in Birmingham, a new perpetual trophy sponsored by one of the cheese industry’s most illustrious names was presented to a Swiss exporter. The John Webb Trophy for the World’s Best Cheese made using raw milk was awarded to a Le Gruyère AOC cheese entered by Swiss affineur and exporter, von Mühlenen. In doing so, it also acknowledged a relationship stretching back almost half a century. John Webb was one of the principle architects of modern-day cheese retailing in the UK. In 1958, he diversified his father’s retail fishmonger’s business into delicatessen and cheese and four years later, set up one of the country’s first ‘quality’ cheese importers and wholesalers in London. Originally, the cheeses were bought directly from Rungis Market in Paris and transported by rail into London’s Victoria Station. “I’d be there at 4.00am to collect the cheese which we’d then sell through a van sales operation,” John recalls. At that time, he employed 6 staff but it was in 1966 that he took the step that was destined to change his
business and the cheese eating habits of British consumers. “We made an exclusive agreement with a single affineur to import high quality Swiss cheese into the UK, which at that time, was almost unknown in this country. It’s fair to say, from that point we never looked back.” According to Interprofession du Gruyère’s UK marketing manager, Maurice Johnson, John Webb played a critical role in the development of the market for continental cheese in the UK. “John’s company, H T Webb & Co helped shape the way retailers selected, imported and packed continental cheese,” he recalls. “By 1984, the company had moved to purpose built facilities in Kent, employing over 350 staff working in 4 warehouses, 6 cutting rooms and 2 labelling areas and generating a turnover in excess of £52 million. John Webb had developed the largest portfolio of cheese and chilled delicatessen products in the country.” John Webb retired in the mid 1990’s and the business was subsequently bought by dairy giant,
Arla but Maurice Johnson and Interprofession du Gruyère believe his legacy should be permanently recognised and where possible, continue to promote tradional cheese making. “We decided to support the introduction of a new perpetual trophy to the World Cheese Awards,” said Maurice, “one that John could sponsor for the benefit of cheesemaking around the world. “In sponsoring The John Webb Trophy for the World’s Best Raw Milk Cheese, he is confirming, even in retirement, his commitment to a lifelong belief that unpasteurised milk cheeses preserve traditional craft production methods and guarantee unbeatable taste,” said Maurice Johnson. The winner of the trophy at last November’s World Cheese Awards was the Swiss Le Gruyère AOC, the only cheese ever to have won the World Championship on three separate occasions, 1992, 2002 and 2005. In 2010, the cheese came joint fourth but was also judged the best unpasteurised milk cheese in the show. It was fitting irony that the affineur who entered this cheese in 2010 was von Mulhenen, the very same Swiss company John Webb made that first exclusive agreement with way back in 1966.
Recognised as the cornerstone of European cuisine! Vol.11 Issue 10 · January-February 2010
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