the mix
WintER’s LAst DAncE
STOry anD recIpe By Matt Seiter pHOTOgrapHy By Jonathan gayman
Milky white orgeat (pronounced or-zad) syrup pops up fairly frequently in craft cocktails – commonly used in tiki-style drinks such as Mai Tais and Daiquiris – yet remains a mysterious ingredient, even among cocktail enthusiasts. The syrup is made with almonds and rose or orange water and offers an unparalleled richness in the cocktail world. It adds roasted, sweet, nutty flavors to various classic cocktails, such as the Momisette, made with pastis, orgeat syrup and sparkling wine. But where does the syrup come from? The word orgeat is derived from the Latin hordeata, which translates roughly to “made with barley.” In the days before refrigeration, milk was not a common household item because of its short shelf life. Most milk was turned into cheese to maximize its storage time and marketability as a commodity. Barley and nuts were more common, and, when mixed with water, these products formed a highly stabilized, milky substitute that was used in breads and pastries. This is the beginning of orgeat syrup’s story. Making nut-based syrups at home is very simple; it is just time consuming. Over the years, I’ve experimented with making syrups from three types of nuts – almonds, macadamia nuts and walnuts – and each was as different as the nuts themselves. Black walnuts – Missouri’s official state nut – proved more difficult to work with. For instance, syrup made with almonds or macadamia nuts can be substituted for simple syrup in Daiquiri recipes, and the nutty flavor will add another level of complexity. But substitute black walnuts in that same syrup recipe and it won’t work; the drink becomes overly tart, with no semblance of nutty flavor. However, if you incorporate a fatty liquid into a drink with black walnut syrup, the walnut flavor shines through. Because walnuts are lower in fat content than almonds or macadamia nuts, they need a little extra help to coax out flavor. When making cocktails with black walnut syrup at home, remember to incorporate fat.
Syrup SuggeStionS I’ve tried this black walnut syrup in Daiquiris, Fog cutters and Mai Tais, and it just doesn’t work. Unlike its orgeat brethren, black walnut syrup plays an entirely different role in cocktails. It’s absolutely spectacular in cream-based drinks such as Brandy alexanders and milk punches – even Mudslides benefit from this rich syrup. Try it in a ramos gin Fizz for a doubly indulgent treat. Brown sugar can be used in place of granulated sugar by substituting 2 cups brown sugar for the granulated sugar.
Black Walnut Syrup Yield | 17 oz | 8 oz ½
black walnut pieces liter water, plus enough to submerge nuts
1½
cups granulated sugar (or 2 cups brown sugar)
2
oz bourbon
| Preparation | Submerge walnuts in cold water for half an hour. Strain walnuts from water and discard water.
place nuts in a blender or food processor. add ½ liter water and pulse for 10 to 15 seconds. pour mixture into a bowl and let sit for 1 hour. Line a fine-mesh strainer with cheesecloth or a dish towel and place over a bowl. Strain water from walnut pieces, but do not discard either, and do not remove the nuts from the towel. Once all water is drained, squeeze as much liquid from the walnuts as possible.
return walnut pieces to the same water and repeat the soak-strainsqueeze method two times. Transfer strained walnut water to a saucepot with sugar. Bring to just before boiling, reduce to medium heat and let simmer for 10 minutes. This will boil over if you let it get to a roaring boil, so watch the pot as it heats up. remove from heat and let cool for 20 minutes. Stir in bourbon. Transfer to a glass jar or bottle and refrigerate before using.
Matt Seiter is a co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program and a continuing educator for all desiring knowledge of the craft of mixology. He is a member of Drink Lab and a consultant at Sanctuaria.
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feastStL.com
FEBRUARY 2014
Winter’s Last Dance serves | 1 |
1 oz Heaven Hill Gold Label Bonded Bourbon 2 oz coffee, brewed and hot 1 oz black walnut syrup (recipe left) 1 oz heavy cream grated nutmeg (optional) whipped cream (optional)
| Preparation | pour bourbon into a coffee mug. In a small saucepot, combine coffee, syrup and cream. Bring to just below boiling. remove from heat. add heated mixture to mug. grate nutmeg over mug and add a dollop of whipped cream to serve, if desired.