August 2021 Feast Magazine

CHEERS To THis year's Inspired Local Food Culture

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midwest

Winners

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august 2021

AYEAR LIKE NO OTHER

BROUGHT OUT ST. LOUIS’ BEST To the St. Louis region’s restaurant, food, farm, and drink industry, we’ve been fans for years. Your fortitude and ingenuity during the past year have made us even more proud. Thank you.

DELIGHT is Always on the Menu With award-winning, globally recognized Executive Chef Bryan Hardy at the helm, delight is always on the menu at The Gatesworth, an independent senior living community.

Using only the freshest seasonal ingredients, Chef Hardy not only sets the general menus for The Gatesworth’s three full-service in-house restaurants, but he works with the individual residents to custom-create menus.

To Chef Hardy, creating custom menus is about more than meeting dietary requirements; it’s about surprise and delight, engaging the senses and stimulating the palate of each unique resident.

“A healthy, well-balanced, fully customized diet is something every resident of The Gatesworth has always enjoyed,” Hardy explains.

“In many establishments, you’ll find processed food; that’s not our way at The Gatesworth,” he says. “We bring things in and do the work ourselves, [bringing in] fresh fruits and vegetables, [and] high-quality local ingredients. We do all our baking, butchering and brining in-house. We peel, blanche and prepare vegetables by hand. Most everything is made from scratch. It’s not the easiest way, but it’s the best way to retain flavor and nutrients.”

According to Hardy, the difference begins with the staff. The renowned kitchen staff members hold themselves to the highest standards, and nearly every individual who trains with The Gatesworth is a graduate of a culinary program or has gone through

an apprenticeship, with some having even competed worldwide.

“My staff and I are like the personal chefs of each and every resident that lives here at The Gatesworth,” he explains.

“Everyone is unique, so every diet we create is, too. From the moment I meet a new resident, I become a student of their tastes, likes, dislikes, health needs, dietary goals, etc.

I want to know them completely, so I can provide them with the best nutrition, variety and taste possible.”

These standards do not go unnoticed by the residents, many of whom have named the dining one of the first-class features of the community. “The food is always excellent here,” says resident Carol Max. “Chef Brian Hardy will cook to order for you if there is something special you would like, which he has done for me many times.”

“Our residents provide the inspiration and sometimes even the recipes,” Hardy adds. “Our kitchen can prepare pretty much anything, and we love the challenge of trying to bring a resident’s beloved family recipe to life. It’s all about that personal touch.”

Exceptional Independent Senior Living

EXECUTIVE CHEF BRIAN HARDY The 2020 recipient of the Dr. L.J. Minor Chef Professionalism Award from St. Augustine, Florida’s distinguished American Culinary Federation, Hardy is passionate about providing the highest quality of food and service to The Gatesworth.

The Gatesworth is now welcoming new residents! For more information, or to experience The Gatesworth’s personal touch in person, please contact us. We’d love to meet you!

314-993-0111 | THEGATESWORTH.COM

The Gatesworth is committed to equal housing opportunity and does not discriminate in housing and services because of race, color, religion, sex, handicap, familial status or national origin.

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noboleisvineyards.com

100 Hemsath Rd, Augusta, MO, 63332

CENTRAL WEST END 60 N Euclid Ave, St. Louis

COUNTRY CLUB PLAZA 239 W 47th St, Kansas City

LEAWOOD 5200 W 119th St, Leawood

636.482.4500

LEE'S SUMMIT Coming Soon!

LADUE CROSSING 8885 Ladue Rd Suite H, St. Louis

Pro tip: Pre-order on the Shack app!

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41

52 57 63

2021 Feast 50 AWARDS Tens of thousands of votes were cast this year – and the results are in!

/ 11 / the dish Beer-Battered Fish with Remoulade Sauce

/ 12 / dine & drink Last Flight Brewing Co., Seven Arrows Taproom, West Bottoms Whiskey Co., Wineology

42

st. lo u i s

44

k a n sas cit y

46

s p ringfi e l d

Blue Ruin

48

c o l u mbi a

/ 16 / one on one

let the fun be gin

/ 14 / the mix

Diana Condori of Cóndor’s Cove

/ 18 /

shop here

The Exchange

/ 19 /

midwest made

Apple Brandy

Waves Cider Co. returns the age-old tradition of cidermaking to Missouri.

/ 20 /

mystery shopper

Japanese Gin

/ 22 /

hot blocks

it's only natural

Galloway Neighborhood

F&R Imports brings French natural wines to regional restaurants and shops.

/ 25 / one on one

Learn how Ginworld founder Natasha Bahrami ignited a Midwest gin movement.

turning the tide

Pat Gioia of STLBarkeep

/ 26 / sugar rush Peach Melba Torte

/ 28 / healthy appetite

Penne with Vodka Sauce

/ 31 / one on one

Todd Schade of Springfield Brewing Co.

/ 32 / quick fix

Tequila-Lime Watermelon Salsa

/ 33 / culinary library

Frances Harvey of Barred Owl Butcher & Table

/ 36 / crash course Pretzels

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YOU CAN VISIT US 7 DAYS A WEEK! SUNDAY: 12PM-8PM | MONDAY-THURSDAY: 12PM-10PM | FRIDAY: 12PM-11PM | SATURDAY: 11AM-11PM

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Inspired Local Food Culture /

6 & 7 SHOW SEASON TICKET PACKAGE ON SALE NOW

august

midwest

2021

Volume 11 / Issue 8 April 12 - May 15, 2022

2021-2022

EDITORIAL

sales

Editor in chief

general manager

Heather Riske, hriske@feastmagazine.com

Susan Eckert, seckert@feastmagazine.com

managing editor

media Strategist

Rachel Huffman, rhuffman@feastmagazine.com

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

assistant editor

Kasey Carlson, kcarlson@feastmagazine.com Kansas City Contributing Editor

Jenny Vergara St. Louis Contributing Editor

November 16-28, 2021

Feast Media, 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260, feastmagazine.com

Mabel Suen

Distribution

Springfield Contributing Editor

To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Rich Hudson for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at rhudson@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com.

Tessa Cooper

L E T T H E M E M O RY L I V E A G A I N

Contact Us

Columbia Contributing Editor

Jessica Vaughn Martin fact checker

Meghan Baker Proofreader TM© 1981 RUG LTD

Dec. 21, 2021 - Jan. 2, 2022

Alecia Humphreys

Jan. 25, 2022 - Feb. 6, 2022

Contributing Writers

Cheryl Baehr, Kala Elkinton, Amanda Elliott, Amy Feese, Teresa Floyd, Natalie Torres Gallagher, Hilary Hedges, Rogan Howitt, Sara Roelke, JC Sandt, Hope Timmermann, Shannon Weber

ART Art Director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com

February 15-27, 2022

March 22 - April 3, 2022

June 1-18, 2022

INCLUD ED IN THE 7-SHOW PACKA GE

Specials for SWAP ONE and Priority Purchase HAIRSPRAY • A MAGICAL CIRQUE CHRISTMAS RUDOLPH The Red-Nosed Reindeer The Musical RIVERDANCE 25TH ANNIVERSARY SHOW

FabulousFox.com/Subscribe • 314-535-1700 The Fox Box Office is closed until further notice.

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Contributing Photographers

Brandon Alms, Zach Bauman, Tyler Beck, Aaron Clark, Tessa Cooper, Judd Demaline, Teresa Floyd, Sean Locke, Paige McDonald, Aaron Ottis, Anna Petrow, Pilsen Photo Co-op, J. Pollack Photography, Claire Porter, Matthew Seidel, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen, Cheryl Vaughn, Kim Wade Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork.

Submissions will not be returned.

All contents are copyright © 2010-2021 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC.

on the cover Waves Cider Co. in Columbia, Missouri, by Aaron Ottis table of contents Gin distilled in Missouri by Paige McDonald

editor’s letter

A

s I edited this month’s stories, one word kept coming back to me: approachability. Each year, our annual drinks issue highlights the best in booze, from beer and cider to wine and spirits. High-end alcohol can sometimes feel stuffy or inaccessible, but the folks featured in this month’s magazine are dedicated not just to making great beverages but to making sure that everyone can enjoy them.

Take the new Waves Cider Co. in Columbia, Missouri. The cidery from the team behind Logboat Brewing Co. launched last year with a goal, as Hope Timmermann says in her story on p. 57, to “make drinking cider just as natural for Missourians as cracking open a Budweiser.” To learn more about what goes into making Waves’ ciders – which are a far cry from the cloyingly sweet versions that once dominated the market – just stop by the cidery’s stylish tasting room, where you can watch the team at work while kicking back with a glass of hibiscus-green tea cider.

John-Paul and Julie Fortney of F&R Imports (p. 63) embody this idea of

accessibility to a T. Local sommeliers and shop owners love the interesting French natural wines they sell, of course, but they also enjoy learning the stories of these wines from the laidback couple, who have been known to roll up to a tasting with a simple Coleman cooler full of wine.

But the best example of this approach just might be Natasha Bahrami (a.k.a.

The Gin Girl) who, upon becoming the first American to be inducted into Gin Magazine’s Gin Hall of Fame, insisted that the accolade belonged not just to her, but to St. Louis and Missouri as a whole. You can learn more about how she ignited a Midwest gin movement on p. 52.

No matter your tipple of choice, I hope this issue will give you an excuse to raise a glass.

Until next time,

Heather Riske

editor@feastmagazine.com

@ • 2½ HRS BEFORE EVERY HOME GAME • ALL INCLUSIVE BAR • DJ/LIVE MUSIC • CHAMPIONSHIP BUFFET TICKETS AT CARDINALS.COM/PREGAME / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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PROMOTION

SPONSORED CONTENT BY

ALLISON PRIMO

SCHNUCKS REGISTERED DIETITIAN

HEALTHY HABITS FOR HAPPY KIDS Breakfast has always been my favorite meal of the day. Although I haven’t always been an early riser, I never skipped my morning breakfast, even if that meant I was finishing my last bites on the car ride to school. I attribute a lot of this to my mom’s constant attention to this important meal of the day. It’s one of the many healthy habits she instilled in me growing up. It didn’t matter if it was a school morning during the week or a slow Sunday morning after church, we always had breakfast complete with fresh cut fruit and a cold glass of milk or orange juice. This may seem like

SPICED BERRY PASTRIES WITH MAPLE ALMOND BUTTER SERVES 6 1 cup whole raw almonds

1½ cups pastry flour

1 Tbsp maple syrup

½ cup coconut flour

½ Tbsp safflower oil

1 Tbsp sugar

¾ tsp ground cinnamon, divided

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp vanilla

¾ cup butter, cut up

1 cup chopped berries of choice

1 egg, lightly beaten

2 tsp finely chopped crystallized ginger

3 Tbsp milk

a small act, but it has had a lasting impact.

PREPARATION

Instilling healthy habits in our kids at a young age like eating fruits

18-20 minutes or until toasted. Allow to cool and transfer to a food processor,

and vegetables, brushing teeth, being active and getting a good night's sleep all contribute to their life-long health. I am constantly looking for fun ways to build these into my family's daily routine, which often involves bringing my girls into the kitchen. Taking a breakfast treat like a toaster pastry and crafting our own with fresh berries and homemade almond butter is a fun (and messy) way to make memories and get them excited about cooking. Not every experience needs to be this complex. The more we get kids involved in meal prep and planning the more likely they will eat and enjoy nutritious foods. For more kid-friendly and easy recipe inspiration pick up a copy of this month’s Simply Schnucks magazine. Building healthy habits doesn’t have to take super powers. Get the entire family on board and you’ll see how each small good choice leads to another and creates lasting change.

Toss almonds with maple syrup and safflower oil and bake at 300 degrees for mixing until smooth. Add ¼ teaspoon cinnamon and vanilla, mixing again until combined. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan combine berries, ginger and remaining cinnamon. Cover and cook over medium heat for 5-8 minutes or until softened, stirring occasionally and gently smashing with the back of a spoon. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.

In a large mixing bowl stir together both flours, sugar and salt. Cut in butter with a pastry blender until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Stir in egg. Add 1 tablespoon of milk at a time to the flour, mixing in between. Gently knead until it holds together and divide dough in half. On a floured surface, roll each pastry ball into a 9x8-inch rectangle and divide into six equal rectangles, for a total of twelve, 4x3 rectangles.

Spread berry mixture over six pastry rectangles, leaving a ½-inch border around the edges. Moisten edges with additional milk and top with the remaining pastry rectangles, pressing edges together with a fork to seal. Brush tops with additional milk and prick with a fork. Bake 17–20 minutes or until golden. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool. Drizzle with maple almond butter.

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

serves 2 t0 4 Beer-Battered Fish

1 cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup tempura batter mix ½ Tbsp McCormick roasted garlic and bell pepper seasoning ½ tsp salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper ¼ tsp baking powder 1¼ cups Square One Brewery & Distillery Light Squared

4 8-oz grouper or cod fillets 2 to 4 cups canola oil Remoulade Sauce ¼ white onion, chopped ½ stalk celery, chopped

2 Tbsp capers

1 Tbsp chopped fresh parsley ¹⁄₈ tsp cayenne pepper 1½ cups mayonnaise

1 Tbsp roasted garlic paste ¹⁄₈ cup Square One Brewery & Distillery Light Squared

1 Tbsp pickle relish

1 Tbsp horseradish / preparation – beer-battered fish / In a large bowl, mix flour, tempura batter mix, roasted garlic and bell pepper seasoning, salt, pepper, baking powder and beer. Dredge fish fillets in batter. Fill a deep pan with three inches canola oil; set over medium high heat and heat to 350°F. Carefully set two battered fish fillets in oil; cook, approximately 8 minutes, flipping halfway through to ensure even cooking.

Transfer fish to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Repeat process with remaining fillets.

Try the Kikkoman brand – it’s what they use at Square One.

Developing the menu for Square One Brewery & Distillery, which opened 15 years ago in St. Louis, owner Steve Neukomm was determined to perfect his recipe for fish and chips. Inspired by his time as one of the original bartenders at The Schlafly Tap Room – where he enjoyed its version of the classic brewpub entrée – Neukomm decided to use Light Squared, a golden ale brewed at Square One, in the batter for the fresh white fish as well as in the side of remoulade sauce.

The signature beer lends malt character to the light, crispy batter, and the fish goes great with the hand-cut french fries and savory dipping sauce. The entire dish is well executed – a couple from the U.K. even told Neukomm that it’s the best fish and chips they’ve had since they moved to the U.S. “‘The Queen would be proud’ was their exact comment,” says Neukomm. –Mabel Suen

Recipe courtesy of Steve Neukomm, owner, Square One Brewery & Distillery Photography by j. pollack photography

/ preparation – remoulade sauce / Add white onion, celery, capers, parsley, cayenne pepper, mayonnaise, roasted garlic paste and beer to the bowl of a food processor; pulse until finely chopped . Stir in pickle relish and horseradish. / to serve / Plate beer-battered fish alongside freshly cooked french fries and a side of remoulade sauce.

with Remoulade Sauce / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

▶ JEFFERSON CITY, MO

Last Flight Brewing Co. Written by Jessica Vaughn Martin / photography by tyler beck

This spring, Last Flight Brewing Co. landed in Jefferson City, Missouri, delivering a new selection of craft beer – plus housemade root beer – to the capital. Located inside a former warehouse adjacent to the Greenway Bike Trail, the city’s only standalone brewery offers 12 beers on tap, including Peach Wheat (a refreshingly fruity blend of peach and Amarillo hops with a slightly sweet finish) and Jeff City Lager (an easy-drinking light lager reminiscent of your favorite domestic beer). The kegs rotate, as do the food trucks parked outside, but you can keep track of what’s on the menu via social media.

738 Heisinger Road, Jefferson City, Missouri, lastflightbrewing.com

▼ HOLLISTER, MO

Seven Arrows Taproom Written by Sara Roelke / photography by aaron clark

After completing a lengthy renovation of the oldest building in Hollister, Missouri, Tom and Heather Sattazahn debuted Seven Arrows Taproom in April.

In the carefree atmosphere of the casual bar, patrons can sip on popular Missouri-made drinks such as the peach cider from Brick River Cider Co. and fermented favorites from Spring Branch Kombucha, as well as the house IPA, American House Ale, which Lost Signal Brewing Co. crafted for the taproom. There are 24 taps in total, plus a variety of events – from yoga classes to trivia nights – to keep you entertained. For a more relaxed visit, head out to the patio where you can listen to live music and grab a bite to eat from the rotating selection of food trucks.

260 Birdcage Walk, Hollister, Missouri, seven-arrows-taproom-llc.square.site

▲ ST. LOUIS

Wineology

Written by Mabel Suen photography by sean locke

As described by owner Lori Cheatham, Wineology is her love letter to the Missouri wine industry. At the new wine shop and tasting lounge in St. Charles, Cheatham exclusively features bottles from area wineries, including Augusta Winery, Defiance Ridge Vineyards and Montelle Winery, and showcases some of the wines they have to offer in “wine-tails,” specialty cocktail-like concoctions. Customers can also grab a glass or two to enjoy alongside a build-your-own charcuterie board. Locally sourced options for the spread include meats from Salume Beddu and Volpi and cheeses from Marcoot Jersey Creamery, plus English water crackers, artichoke heart relish, dried apricots, chocolate-sea salt almonds and more.

3767 New Town Blvd., St. Charles, Missouri, visitwineology.com

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The Grand Café

▲ KANSAS CITY

West Bottoms Whiskey Co. Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by zach bauman

The newest whiskey distiller in Kansas City, West Bottoms Whiskey Co. operates out of a cozy, six-story red-brick building that gives it an aged feeling much like the flavor profile of its signature spirit. Behind the bar, patrons will find distiller and owner Alex Lindsey with his Kansas City Whiskey in hand, ready to pour a sample or mix a cocktail.

The whiskey is made with both rye and bourbon whiskeys and blended with Oloroso sherry – a method that was first revived by J. Rieger & Co. for its Kansas City Whiskey.

Try Lindsey’s whiskey straight to experience its true flavor and then sip it in a cocktail such as The Best Old Fashioned in Kansas City; The Derriere Telegram with whiskey and Champagne; or the Horsefeather, I Barely Know Her!, a Kansas native cocktail reengineered for the West Bottoms featuring ginger beer, bitters and lemon.

1321 W. 13th St., Kansas City, Missouri, westbottomswhiskey.co / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

Butterfly pea flower is a mixologist’s dream. When exposed to citrus, the color changes from a deep blue to a bright purple.

Lightly floral, naturally vibrant and easily introduced to cocktails, you’ve likely seen it in a drink that’s gone viral. This cocktail is floral but also tart, featuring tequila, orgeat, a specialty floral liqueur from Tattersall Distilling, a simple butterfly pea flower infusion and fresh lime juice.

Building the cocktail in a glass over a large ice cube creates an otherworldly presentation.

Story and recipe by Rogan Howitt, beverage director, Good Spirits & Co. in Springfield, Missouri

The ombré effect in this cocktail is gorgeous, but remember to lightly stir the mixture before drinking.

Photography by cheryl vaughn

Blue Ruin

Serves 1 Butterfly Pea Flower Syrup (Yields 10 oz) 1¼ cups water 4 Tbsp dried butterfly pea flowers 1 cup granulated sugar Blue Ruin 1 oz fresh lime juice 2 oz tequila ¾ oz butterfly pea flower syrup (recipe follows) ¼ oz Tattersall Crème de Fleur ¼ oz orgeat edible flowers, for garnish (optional) / preparation – butterfly pea flower syrup / In a small saucepan set over high heat, bring water to a boil. Remove from heat and add dried butterfly pea flowers to water; steep until cooled. Strain, pressing liquid from steeped flowers, and then discard solids.

Add sugar; stir until dissolved. Transfer syrup to an airtight container and store in refrigerator for up to two weeks. / preparation – blue ruin / In a large coupe glass, add 1 large ice cube and lime juice to chill. In a shaker tin, add tequila, butterfly pea flower syrup, Crème de Fleur and orgeat over ice; shake vigorously until chilled and diluted. Slowly strain mixture into coupe glass (the lime juice will create an ombré effect).

Garnish with edible flowers, if desired.

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W i n e ry & BreWery

THANK YOU for voting us Best Winery!

4830 Pioneer Rd Hillboro, MO • 636-797-8686 • WILDSUN.COM

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

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ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

kansas city

with Diana Condori / bartender and founder, Cóndor’s Cove What is it about Tiki that makes you feel at home? Tiki is weird, and I’m a little weird, so I identified with it from the start. When you tend bar at a Tiki place, it’s about more than wearing a Hawaiian shirt; you have to be yourself. The scene is almost more about hospitality than drinks. I’ve been bartending in Kansas City since I was 21, and other bars where I worked cared a lot about how I looked on the outside, and with Tiki, I could be myself and not worry about my appearance and focus on showing people what’s on the inside.

How do you think being raised in Bolivia has contributed to your love and understanding of Tiki? I consider myself a proud Latina, and today, I see real similarities between my own Bolivian culture and island culture as it relates to Tiki.

Both share a similar love of tropical colors and fruit-forward cocktails. Typical Tiki décor is often jungle-like, and I grew up only two hours from the jungle. This is why I think I identified so much with it, because it reminds me of home. Most Tiki bars play Buena Vista Social Club, which is a group made up of Cuban musicians. Listening to that original album, the salsa and merengue music always remind me of Bolivia. At my own pop ups, I tend to put some Bolivian music into the playlist and decorate each bar with items from my own collection of Bolivian artifacts and traditional cloths, in addition to my Tiki mug collection. I want to add my own culture into the mix to make Cóndor’s Cove something that feels like me. When you come to my pop up, you get a little piece of me.

Written by Jenny Vergara / photography by pilsen photo co-op

Diana Condori earned the nickname “Tiki D” while working as a bartender at TikiCat in Kansas City’s Westport neighborhood. The vacation vibe of the bar immediately resonated with her, reminding her of Bolivia, where she lived until age 11. “I spent three years at TikiCat, not only learning how to make traditional Tiki cocktails but learning about the culture that surrounds Tiki – the fashion, the art, the exotica, the glassware and, of course, the drinks are all part of the Tiki experience that is meant to make you feel like you’ve escaped to the islands.” As Condori became more immersed in Tiki culture, she discovered that it’s about even more than escapism and tropical drinks, though; it’s an accepting community of enthusiasts who love Tiki because it allows you to relax and be yourself. When TikiCat closed at the beginning of the pandemic, it was that same community that inspired Condori to launch her own Tiki pop up, Cóndor’s Cove, which debuted in January. Tiki culture makes people feel good, and she wanted to bring that type of party to bars around town, if only for one night. After multiple pop ups, Condori announced that Cóndor’s Cove will pop up once a month at HiTides Coffee in the Crossroads Arts District for the remainder of the year.

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In your opinion, how can people celebrate Tiki without it being a form of cultural appropriation? I believe there is a way to do Tiki right, and it starts with being respectful to the culture and not decorating with real Polynesian Gods or fetishizing Polynesian women. Tiki and rum both have really sad histories of racism and sexism, but I have found that Tiki bar owners and enthusiasts, for the most part, all want to show their cultural appreciation, not cultural appropriation.

Tell us about the new home of Cóndor’s Cove. Cóndor’s Cove is really about reaching a different community of cocktail-lovers, [so] I’m looking forward to having a home where HiTides can do coffee and ice cream by day and then turn the space over to us to do Tiki drinks at night. I have people who follow me, and I think being in one spot will be the next best thing to having my very own Tiki bar. Besides, the Hawaiian décor elements are all there at HiTides. condorscove.com

classic

Tiki

cocktails

at Cóndor’s Cove mai tai For her Mai Tai, Condori uses the recipe that restaurateur Trader Vic claimed to have invented in 1944. It features orgeat (an almond-based syrup), orange liqueur and blended aged rum, plus garnishes such as mint and a lime husk for a little ambiance in the glass.

sidewinder’s fang Made with black blended rum, blended aged rum, passionfruit, orange and lime, Sidewinder’s Fang is a quintessential summer cocktail. The name comes from the garnish: an orange peel cut into a snake shape with two cloves for eyes.

the zombie The Zombie, featuring overproof black blended rum, column still aged rum and blended aged rum, is booze-forward but balanced and delicious.

Other ingredients include citrus juice, grenadine, falernum and herbstura, plus cinnamon as a finishing touch.

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

▶ PARKVILLE, MO

The Exchange Written by Kala Elkinton / photography by Zach Bauman

In a tiny storefront in downtown Parkville, Missouri, dozens of regional products have found their home. At The Exchange, customers will find goat cheeses from Baetje Farms and Terrell Creek Farm, pickles and jams from Kansas City Canning Co., bratwurst from Barham Family Farm, eggs from Karbaumer Farm, local beers and even pancake and waffle mix from Chris Cakes. Housemade goodies include marinated olives, bread-and-butter pickled eggs, Buffalo chicken dip, garlic butter, chorizo-queso dip, tomato soup, ricotta and kimchi. Pick out your favorites and pack them into a picnic basket offered by the shop; if you’re stumped on what to include, chef-owner Andrew Dessert will build a basket for you. Curated picnic baskets start at $50, and Dessert promises you’ll love the selection – so much so, you might even come back for another.

110 Main St., Parkville, Missouri, facebook.com/The-Exchange-In-PKV-105668857918061

viognier

items from

The

18

Exchange

for your next picnic

feastmagazine.com / a ug ust 2 0 2 1

raw milk white cheddar

The Viognier from

Universally loved, this smooth, mild raw white Cheddar is

KC Wineworks

made from Grade A milk at Jason Wiebe Dairy in Durham,

boasts tangerine

Kansas. Crumble a block for sharing at your next gathering.

aromas and citrus flavors.

A medium-bodied white wine,

raspberry - chipotle jam

it’s perfect for

Sweet, tart, fresh raspberries balance the

sipping outside

smoky and slightly spicy chipotle peppers

this summer.

in this jam from Kansas City Canning Co.

midwest made

When you think of brandy, you might visualize a gentleman with a mustache wearing a smoking jacket and swirling amber liquid around a snifter.

While Old World brandies such as French Cognac will always have a place on the shelf, bartenders are making room for more approachable American apple brandies, along with other types of fruit brandies. Made from the fermented mash or juice of apples, apricots, pears and more, fruit brandies enjoyed a pre-Prohibition popularity that rivaled whiskey, and these Missouri distillers are bringing the trend back in full force.

Written by Natalie Torres Gallagher photography by matthew seidel

Nick Colombo, co-owner and operations manager of Switchgrass Spirits, learned how to make brandy from master distiller Hubert Germain-Robin in New York and then brought his knowledge home to St. Louis.

Switchgrass Spirits has a hyperlocal focus: Its brandy is made from Jonathan apples grown by Happy Apples in Union, Missouri, and after being double-distilled in an alembic pot still, it’s packaged in glass bottles produced just an hour from the distillery. Curious customers can stop by the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market on Saturdays for a free sample and a chat with the staff. switchgrassspirits.com

St. Louis-based StilL 630 offers two apple brandies, both made with apples from nearby orchards. Knowledge of Good is aged for more than three years in new charred American oak barrels, while Knowledge of Evil is aged for more than three years in the brand’s 5-year-old rye whiskey barrels. The barrel-aging processes create two richly layered – and very different – spirits. The former has a light, sweet profile with hints of lush caramel and oak, and the latter is reminiscent of a decadent apple pie with whispers of spiced rye. Pick up StilL 630 products at the distillery or local retailers, or order them online. still630.com

Swiss-style vinars – unaged, dry fruit brandies – are the focus at Edelbrand Pure Distilling in Marthasville, Missouri. Founder and distiller Martin Weber offers an artisan apple brandy infused with plum, alongside five other varieties: apricot, cherry, pear, plum and grape infused with dill. The key to their success is whole-fruit mash and long fermentation times.

Depending on the fruit, a brandy can be fermented anywhere from five weeks to a year, and it takes between eight and 15 pounds of fruit to make a single bottle. You’ll find Edelbrand vinars in retail shops across the state as well as online. edelbrandpuredistilling.com

Co-owner Jim Pierce grows 24 varieties of heritage and diseaseresistant apples at Of The Earth Farm + Distillery in Richmond, Missouri, and he favors a blend for the distillery’s apple brandy. Pierce uses fresh, whole fruit, which means the processes of making the mash and distilling the brandy are more labor-intensive, but the result is worth it. When enjoyed over ice, Pierce says the apple brandy captures the essence of the orchard – the aromas, the flavors, the gentle warmth. Bottles are available at boutique liquor stores in the Kansas City area as well as online. oftheearthfarm.com

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

What Is It? Japanese gin differentiates itself simply but effectively: While American gins are typically juniper-forward and layered with strong botanicals, Japanese versions push juniper into the background and allow the clean, clear essence of gin to shine.

Its botanicals are subtle and hyper-regional – you might detect layers of sakura blossom, green tea, yuzu, lime, sansho pepper, hinoki or shiso, depending on the maker. Each botanical is distilled separately to achieve the six distinct parts of the final flavor profile – base, herbal, floral, citrus, spice and tea. Japanese gin is sometimes blended with sake, as well, to knock its astringency down a notch.

What Do I Do With It? For starters, enjoy it on the rocks with a citrus twist or in your favorite gin-based cocktail. The crisp, bright flavor of Japanese gin is perfect in a classic gin and tonic, but its exquisite profile also elevates drinks such as a French 75 and a gin Martini.

The grapefruit element in a Greyhound is another good match for the gin. Feeling adventurous? Transform your favorite gin cocktail into a granita – or just make my version, which I think might be the greatest thirst-quenching summer treat I’ve ever had.

The only rule to follow – no matter what type of gin granita you choose to create – is to add enough booze to taste it but not so much that your mixture refuses to freeze.

Story and recipe by Shannon Weber, Writer and Recipe Developer, aperiodictableblog.com Photography by jennifer silverberg

5

Japanese Gins to Try

\ 135° East Hyōgo Dry Gin \ Etsu Handcrafted Gin \ Ki No Bi Kyoto Dry Gin \ Nikka Coffey Gin \ Roku Gin

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A vacation in a glass, this gin-infused granita features a spot-on green tea simple syrup that you can make ahead of time and store in the refrigerator until you’re ready to party.

The recipe makes enough for two batches of granita – because you’ll definitely want a second round.

Citrus-Green Tea Gin Granita

Keep the ra tios in this recipe th e same, but experim ent with whatever ci trus juice or seltzer yo u like.

M OR

E BB Q

LESS WAITING

serves 4 to 6 Green Tea Simple Syrup 1 cup water 1 cup granulated sugar 3 bags green tea Citrus-Green Tea Gin Granita ¹⁄₃ cup fresh lemon or lime juice (or a mixture of both) 1 12-oz can grapefruit or other citrus seltzer ½ cup Japanese gin ¾ cup green tea simple syrup (recipe follows) 1 medium lemon or lime, cut in thin slices, to serve / preparation – green tea simple syrup / Add water and sugar to a medium saucepan and set over medium-high heat; whisk until sugar has dissolved completely. Bring mixture to a boil and then remove from heat. Add tea bags and let steep, 10 minutes. Squeeze excess liquid from tea bags and discard. Set syrup aside to cool. / preparation – citrus-green tea gin granita / In a medium bowl, whisk juice, seltzer, gin and cooled syrup together until combined. Pour mixture into a metal loaf pan and cover with aluminum foil; freeze, 2 hours. Remove and scrape with a fork to break up. Cover and freeze again, 1 hour. Repeat process until granita is set, 4 to 6 hours in total.

@Q39KC

/ to serve / Scrape granita again with a fork to “fluff.” Scoop into tumblers or stemmed glasses and garnish with citrus rounds. Serve immediately. / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

Galloway

neighborhood Springfield, mo

In bygone days, the Galloway neighborhood was a township. Springfield, Missouri, residents would hop on “The Frisco” (the St. Louis-San Francisco Railway) for a weekend excursion to Galloway Village, where they’d explore Sequiota Cave and try to catch a glimpse of the sparkling waterfall inside. Although Galloway Village has long since been a part of the city, a recent revival in business development has taken place thanks to the area’s new mixed-use community Quarry Town. After traversing the shaded Galloway Creek Greenway or lounging at Sequiota Park, now you can get a bite or a brew at one of these local establishments. –Tessa Cooper

The Rock

4 By 4 Brewing Co.

Springtown Coffee Co.

When the humidity inevitably calls for a pit stop, park your bike at Galloway Grill for a burger and a cold beer. The iconic neighborhood joint has seven local craft beers on tap and almost a dozen shareable plates to encourage camaraderie. In addition, you can enjoy salads, sandwiches and chicken fingers – basically any quintessential pub food you can imagine – in the relaxed and inviting atmosphere.

Healthy recipes moonlighting as bar food – that’s what defines the menu at The Rock.

Must-try items include the zucchini cups, cauliflower-crust pizza, tacos with ahi tuna and housemade kale slaw and a chicken sandwich featuring Portuguese piri piri sauce and bread and butter pickles. The Rock also hosts live music events on its spacious patio in the Quarry Town development.

Since 4 By 4 Brewing Co. opened in 2017, it has brought countless friends together over craft beers and games of cornhole. The menu changes with the season, but Parkside Pineapple, a New England-style IPA, is a spectacular summer option. The company is currently building a second brewery in Fremont Hills, but the Galloway location will always be known as the one that started it all.

If it’s too early for alcohol, stop by Springtown Coffee Co. for a classic cappuccino or cortado.

The coffee shop also serves specialty drinks, such as the Red Velvet Chai and iced Almond Joy Latte with a hit of nitro, which will really perk you up. Pair whatever’s in your cup with a breakfast burrito from Springfield-based Small Batch Burritos; flavors include sun-dried tomato, sausage and uncured bacon.

4211 S. Lone Pine Ave., Springfield, Missouri, gallowaygrill.com

4018 S. Lone Pine Ave., Springfield, Missouri, therockmo.com

2811 E. Galloway St., Springfield, Missouri, 4by4brewingcompany.com

3541 S. Lone Pine Ave., Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/springtowncoffee

Great Escape Beer Works

Niji Sushi Bar & Grill

After learning tricks of the trade at a brewery in Boulder, Colorado, Jake Duensing, along with his wife, Jen, opened Great Escape Beer Works in Springfield in 2018. The taproom focuses on house brews, which are occasionally inspired by regions even farther than the Rocky Mountains – think a New England-style IPA and a German-style altbier.

Named after the Japanese word for rainbow, Niji Sushi Bar & Grill offers a feast for the eyes and the palate.

The restaurant’s sashimi, sushi rolls, ramen bowls, bento boxes and hibachi dinners are both refreshing and filling – and best enjoyed on the open-air patio with a sweet Niji Cherry Blossom Tini in hand and unobstructed views of the surrounding greenery.

4022 S. Lone Pine Ave., Springfield, Missouri, greatescapebeerworks.com

3938 S. Lone Pine Ave., Suite 100-B, Springfield, Missouri, nijisushigrill.com

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Great Escape Beer Works and the rock photography by tessa cooper; Niji Sushi Bar & Grill photography by Claire Porter

Galloway Grill

PROMOTI ON

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

PRESENTED BY

MAKING THE MOST OF PROLIFIC, TERRIFIC SUMMER SQUASH

Picadillo-Inspired Stuffed Zucchini Squash SERVES: 4

S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

1 Tbsp olive oil 2 large zucchini squash 1 lb ground turkey (can substitute ground beef if preferred) 1 small onion, chopped 1 Tbsp minced garlic

COSTATA ROMANESCO Although most summer squash are mild tasting, Costata Romanesco zucchini are as distinctive as the ridges that run down their sides.

Unlike other summer squash, they’ve got an earthy, nutty taste, with a texture that’s more firm than creamy, so it can be grilled, steamed or fried. Their rich flavor makes them a favorite among chefs and nutritionists: Costata Romanesco is a fine source of fiber, manganese and folate.

PATTYPAN SQUASH

GREEN ZUCCHINI

YELLOW SQUASH

Sometimes called sunburst or scalloped squash, this quirky variety looks like it’d be right at home in a Dr. Seuss book. The thicker pattypan squash are, the tougher the skin: Big ones can stand up to stuffing and grilling, and smaller ones can be prepared just like regular green zucchini.

Pattypan squash are in season right now; farmers’ markets provide the best odds of finding them.

It’s not just your imagination: Green zucchini are among the most prolific growers in the garden. They pollinate easily, and they’re known for their “cyclical harvesting” — meaning, the more often green zucchini are picked, the more that will pop up in their place. The good news is, there are also seemingly infinite ways to use this low-calorie, high-fiber plant.

Sauté them with olive oil and herbs for a light side dish, or make them the star attraction in entrees like taco-stuffed zucchini boats.

Although they look similar to yellow zucchini, yellow squash are a different vegetable. The main giveaway is their shape: Yellow squash taper slightly (the kind known as straight neck) or curve at one end (crook neck). Like zucchini, they are mellow in taste and versatile in use. Try them on kebabs, or roast them with breadcrumbs and Parmesan — both preparations bring good amounts of folate and vitamin C.

 DOCTOR'S For many people, squash don’t reach their high season until fall, when the vegetables are used as centerpieces, cooked into stews or roasted with a little maple syrup.

Summer squash, however, are generally easier to prepare. That’s because they’re picked before they’ve fully matured, and their skin is thin, edible and tender.

At just about 20 calories per cup, incorporating summer squash into meals can be a great way to help keep weight in check. And on top of being relatively low in calories, they’re a fine source of fiber, too.

“Fiber keeps you feeling fuller, longer, so squash is a great option for a hearty meal that helps curb cravings,” says Dr. Graham Colditz, associate director of prevention and control at Siteman Cancer Center.

ORDERS

Even though zucchini are everywhere in summer, it can be easy to forget that they’re a goldmine of vitamins. Dr. Colditz says that one cup can provide up to 40 percent of the recommended daily amount of vitamin C, an antioxidant that can protect your cells from free radicals that can lead to some diseases, and a good dose of vitamin A, which provides a boost to the immune system and eye health.

As summer winds down and fall settles in, it’s an excellent idea to keep featuring squash and other jewel-toned vegetables on your table as more than just a centerpiece. “Squash are a good source of beta-carotene, which could help lower your risk of developing heart disease and certain cancers. Beta-carotene is what

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR

DR. GRAHAM COLDITZ

associate director of prevention and control at Siteman Cancer Center PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

gives certain types of squash a bright yellow or orange color,” Dr. Colditz says.

“It’s also found in carrots, sweet potatoes and pumpkins.”

8 large pitted green olives, quartered 2 Tbsp capers 1 Tbsp garlic powder 1 Tbsp cumin ½ Tbsp onion powder ½ Tbsp dried oregano ½ Tbsp coriander 1 14.5 oz can diced canned tomatoes, drained 1 tsp sugar salt and pepper to taste

PREPARATION

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat olive oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and onion, and heat until softened, about 5 minutes. While garlic and onion are cooking, slice each zucchini squash in half lengthwise to make 4 total sections. Using a spoon, scoop out center flesh of zucchini squash so a quarter inch remains around the edges of each half.

Reserve scooped out section.

Rub zucchini shells with a bit of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on a baking sheet and bake in oven for 10 minutes.

Chop up reserved zucchini flesh.

Crumble ground turkey into skillet with garlic and onion, and add garlic powder, cumin, onion powder, oregano and coriander; stir through mixture until spices are well distributed. Add capers, chopped zucchini, quartered green olives, diced tomatoes and sugar to skillet with turkey mixture; stir to combine. Cover skillet, reduce heat to low and cook for 7 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, fill each partially cooked zucchini shell with one quarter of turkey mixture. Bake for another 10 to 12 minutes.

Serve immediately.

Approximately 360 calories, 19g fat, 18g carbohydrates, 35g protein per serving / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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Experience Old World Excellence in a New World Setting.

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ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

st. louis

with Pat Gioia / beverage director, STLBarkeep Classic Remedium serves 1

From Latin, “remedium” translates to “remedy,” and Pat Gioia’s Classic Remedium will cure at least a bad day.

Strawberry-Wildflower Syrup (Yields 16 oz) 1 cup chopped strawberries 1½ cups sugar, divided 1 cup water 1 pinch fresh or dried lavender flowers 1 pinch dried chamomile flowers Classic Remedium 2 oz gin 1 oz strawberry-wildflower syrup (recipe follows) ½ oz lemon juice 2 oz sparkling rosé / preparation – strawberry-wildflower syrup / Add strawberries and ½ cup sugar to a bowl; let sit, 30 minutes.

Written by Rachel Huffman / photography by judd demaline

The minds behind STLBarkeep, including beverage director Pat Gioia, focus on “cocktails for the people,” offering accessible craft cocktails such as cucumber Gimlets, bell pepper Margaritas and watermelon Palomas at St. Louis-area events. After working for the company part-time for approximately three years, Gioia accepted a full-time position in March 2020, at which point he became a major player in helping STLBarkeep adapt its operations to COVID-19 shutdowns and restrictions. This summer has seen a decent number of events, though, including Shakespeare in the Park, which have allowed Gioia and his team to reconnect with the community. “We like to be everywhere,” says Gioia. “As opposed to just having a brick-and-mortar location, we’re in dozens of places at the same time, so we’re able to cover a lot of ground and serve a lot of different people. We come to the people; people don’t have to come to us.”

How do you make your cocktails approachable? We try to source local ingredients – although that’s not always possible in the winter months. To make the cocktails themselves more approachable, we try to keep their identities simple, where they don’t include too many ingredients or wildly unfamiliar ingredients. When we do want to step into that territory, our staff is able to clearly explain what the ingredients are and why we chose to use them without coming off as pretentious. Our goal is to always make the customer feel at ease with any new ingredient or cocktail.

What does the future hold for STLBarkeep? We’ve launched a whiskey club, which offers members the option to taste and purchase exclusive whiskeys. As things continue to relax, we might find ourselves in more advantageous situations where we can take on more projects, as well. The more things we’re able to do successfully, the more we’re gonna get. We hope to eventually open our own location, too, as a home base. We don’t have a true timeline, but ideally, it would open this year.

What trends do you see emerging in the world of spirits and cocktails right now? That’s an interesting question because everything has changed a lot, even since I entered the industry.

From my perspective, especially working for STLBarkeep, the accessibility of craft cocktails has grown exponentially.

In a small saucepan, heat water to a low boil; add remaining sugar and stir until dissolved. Add macerated strawberries; simmer, 30 minutes.

Add lavender and chamomile and remove from heat. Transfer syrup to a heatproof bowl; set bowl in an ice bath to shock syrup, 15 minutes. Strain solids from syrup. Store syrup in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one month. / preparation – classic remedium / Add gin, syrup and lemon juice to a shaker tin with ice; shake until slightly diluted, 20 to 25 seconds.

Strain liquids into your preferred glass with or without ice. Top with sparkling rosé. Drink as is, or stir and enjoy.

In the past, it was almost a niche group of people who were into cocktails; now, they have mass appeal. Cocktails are hot – they’ve been hot for a few years – and I’ve noticed that people are really appreciative of everything we do to make good cocktails accessible. There are other examples in the beverage industry, too, such as hard seltzer. I think more and more companies are producing products with a broader appeal that are still done really well.

Do you have a go-to ingredient right now? ’Tis the season of gin – it’s a lighter and brighter spirit that has a lot of complexity, and it regularly changes from brand to brand. As far as a mixing ingredient, I’ve been using tropical fruit juices a lot, especially with us being at a number of sweltering outdoor events this summer.

What advice do you have for home bartenders? Try something you haven’t tried before, because you’re likely going to find a spirit or a bitter or something that you never thought you’d like.

Maybe you’ll find that you love amari or that a certain variety of vermouth really does it for you. On a professional level, we constantly try new things and experiment, and it should be the same for home bartenders. stlbarkeep.com

A syrup made with fresh strawberry and aromatic herbs, including chamomile and lavender, gives this gin cocktail floral notes and a calming effect, while a splash of sparkling rosé adds the perfect brightness for the season. / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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Two timeless desserts – Peach Melba and tiramisu – come together in this creamy yet effervescent creation.

Notes of peach in the Moscato d’Asti complement a layer of poached peaches and fresh raspberries, while the airy vanilla bean mascarpone cream adds a silken richness to the composition. Pair with a glass of sparkling white wine for an unforgettable after-dinner dessert.

Story, recipe and photography by Teresa Floyd, food writer and recipe developer, now-forager.com

serves 8 to 10 5 ¾ 1 2¼ 1 1 8 1 1

large ripe peaches, divided cup, plus 2 Tbsp, sugar, divided cup water cups Moscato d’Asti wine, divided vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped, divided pint fresh raspberries, divided oz mascarpone cup heavy cream package lady fingers (preferably Bellino Savoiardi)

/ preparation / Using a paring knife, cut a small X in the bottom of 3 peaches; immerse them in a large pot of boiling water, approximately 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to an ice bath. Transfer them to a cutting board and peel off skins using the X as a starting point.

Cut each peeled peach in half; discard skins and pits.

In a medium saucepan, combine ¾ cup sugar, water, ½ cup Moscato and ½ of the vanilla bean seeds and scraped pod. Bring mixture to a boil, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Lower heat to a steady simmer and add peeled peaches, pitted-side down; cook, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow peaches to cool to room temperature. Discard vanilla bean pod.

Remove cooled peaches from poaching liquid and transfer to a cutting board; cut into ¼-inch slices. Place slices in a large bowl and add ½ pint raspberries. Pour in poaching liquid and gently mix to combine. Cover and set in refrigerator to chill, 30 minutes.

In a medium bowl, add mascarpone, heavy cream, 1 tablespoon sugar and remaining vanilla bean seeds. Using a hand mixer, whip mixture until medium-stiff peaks form. Set aside.

Pour 1½ cups Moscato into a bowl. Dip 3 ladyfingers at a time into the wine, 4 to 5 seconds, turning halfway through to completely coat. Line the bottom of an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with a single layer of ladyfingers (use as many as you need to fit the pan). Spread half of the vanilla bean mascarpone cream on top of the ladyfingers. Using a slotted spoon, add the peach-raspberry mixture on top of the cream, arranging peach slices and raspberries into an even layer. Top with a second layer of Moscatodipped ladyfingers. Spread remaining cream over entire surface in an even layer. Cover and place in refrigerator to chill overnight, at least 8 hours.

When ready to serve, cut 2 peaches into ¼-inch slices. Transfer to a bowl and add ½ pint raspberries, 1 tablespoon sugar and ¼ cup Moscato.

Gently mix to combine and then set aside to macerate, 15 minutes. Top torte with fresh peach-raspberry mixture and a generous drizzle of Moscato-macerated syrup. Spoon into bowls and serve.

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pair with: Moscato Go local with this pairing and pick up the sweet, sparkling Moscato from Crown Valley Winery in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. It’s bright and refreshing, with aromas of orange blossom, notes of citrus and a clean finish. The flavor profile complements the poached fruit in this recipe, and its crisp effervescence counters the rich vanilla bean mascarpone cream.

–Hilary Hedges crownvalleywinery.com

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

A cinch to make, this penne with vodka sauce pairs well with grilled salmon or vegetables – but I’ve also been known to eat a big bowl of the pasta without any additions. I use tofu cream cheese to lighten the recipe, and if you omit the Parmesan, it’s completely vegan. Here’s another juicy tidbit: You can swap fresh, summery heirloom tomatoes for canned San Marzano tomatoes and keep the

Penne with

Vodka Sauce

dish in your fall and winter recipe rotations.

Story and recipe by Amanda Elliott, chef-owner, Beet Box in Columbia, Missouri Photography by kim wade

serves 6 to 8 1 lb penne 3 Tbsp olive oil 1 onion, small dice 6 cloves garlic, chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ tsp red chile flakes 2 Tbsp vodka 28 oz heirloom tomatoes or canned San Marzano tomatoes, crushed 1 Tbsp sugar 8 oz Tofutti cream cheese 3 cups shaved Parmesan, divided 1 cup chopped basil / preparation / Bring a pot of salted water to a boil; add penne and cook until al dente. Drain, rinse and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan set over medium heat, add oil, onion and garlic; season with salt and pepper.

Sauté until onion is translucent, approximately 5 minutes.

Add red chile flakes, vodka and tomatoes; reduce heat to low and simmer, 15 to 20 minutes. Add sugar, cream cheese and 2 cups Parmesan; continue to simmer, 5 minutes.

Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Stir in basil. Pour sauce over cooked penne and toss to combine. Top with remaining Parmesan and serve immediately.

pair with: Amber Lager Show Me Amber from O’Fallon Brewery in Maryland Heights, Missouri, is the perfect opening act for this pasta play. The lager’s crispness lets the rich and creamy sauce have its moment before washing it down. The caramel and double-roasted crystal malts separate the drink from the dish without upstaging the light penne, and the traditional German hops harmonize with the aromatic basil.

–JC Sandt ofallonbrewery.com

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FRESHEST SEAFOOD IN ST. LOUIS SINCE 1978!

Upscale farm-to-table restaurant, serving craft cocktails, local beers, and an extensive wine and bourbon list!

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Check out our Patio!

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2711 South Highway 94 Defiance, MO 63341 636.798.2288 defianceridgevineyards.com

Rooted in the rolling hills of Historic Missouri Wine Country, the 42 acre property boasts a vineyard, tranquil lake and lush garden landscape. Breathtaking views of the sweeping Missouri River Valley are captured year round from the terraces and veranda surrounding our historic farmhouse.

Open 7 Days a Week ~ year rOunD

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Wood Hat Spirits does it again!

For your sipping pleasure Introducing Choice Single Barrels of Cask Strength Ol’ Blue & Bottled In Bond Rubenesque

Ask for Wood Hat Spirits at your favorite retail store Tours by reservation only:

573-835-1000 or 573-216-3572 Tasting Room Hours: Mon, Thur, Fri, Sat 10-5; Sun 1-5

Retailers, call A Bommarito’s @ 314-961-8996

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www.woodhatspirits.com

.....

ONE ON ONE /

ONE on

SPRINGFIELD, MO

with Todd Schade / director of operations, Springfield Brewing Co. How did the SBC team come up with The Cellar concept?

We acquired Missouri Spirits, so we had the space, and we started kicking around ideas for what it could be used for, whether it was going to be a wedding [venue], straight brewpub, whatever. We essentially decided that what we wanted more than anything was a place to listen to great music, drink great beer and eat and drink unique things. We had the opportunity to create our dream space for having fun and unwinding; so really it was just a matter of curating a space that we thought was going to be the coolest thing ever.

Ty Iechyd Da shares the space with The Cellar. Entering the world of spirits, what has your experience been like? It’s entirely different than the beer world, and it hasn’t been short of hurdles and learning experiences; [there’s been] a steep learning curve for us to get to where we got. That being said, we all love spirits, and we’re looking at it through a brewer’s lens, [which] I think gives us a unique perspective entering into the spirits world. We don’t have the same parameters that maybe the [rest of the] spirits world has because we’re not really concerned about fitting into a certain mold or anything like that. We’re just concerned about creating and making the best spirits we can – [spirits we] enjoy and want to drink ourselves. And we hope that translates into people wanting to taste what we’ve been producing. So it’s been different, but it’s been received extremely well.

Written by Kasey Carlson / photography by brandon alms

pe

c ta c u l a r

the cellar

507 W. Walnut St., Springfield, Missouri, thecellar.springfieldbrewingco.com; tyiechydda.springfieldbrewingco.com

i

ms

at

Right now, Ty Iechyd Da offers typical base spirits, but what can we expect to see in the future? We’ve got bourbon finished in maple barrels, bourbon finished in rum barrels, an apple brandy, a grappa and a gin that’s been aged in wine barrels that are gonna be released, [plus] a liqueur called Sweet Blondie’s Liqueur. Once a month, [we’ll] release a flavor of that. I think the first one is going to be an oatmeal cookie liqueur.

te

s

Since opening in 1997, Springfield Brewing Co. has been a desirable destination in downtown Springfield, Missouri, but with its new venue, The Cellar, and new spirits house, Ty Iechyd Da (pronounced tea-yah-keyda, the name means “house of cheers” in Welsh), its influence in the area continues to grow. The two ventures occupy the same space but serve different purposes. Ty Iechyd Da is producing an exciting line of spirits, Iechyd Da (“Cheers!”), and The Cellar, which hosts live music Wednesday through Sunday, spotlights cocktails that were designed with the spirits in mind. Bill’s Bullet, for instance, features Iechyd Da bourbon whiskey, an apple-tobacco shrub, smoked ice and a flamed lemon peel. We also recommend Bramble On with Ozark dry gin, brambleberry purée, ginger beer and a kiss of lime – as the menu suggests, imagine wearing your favorite blue jeans and that old shirt you love and then having that feeling every time you take a sip.

What role do Iechyd Da spirits play at The Cellar? Everything, all of the cocktails and all of the base spirits at SBC as well as the Cellar, is 100 percent produced by us now. It’s pretty unique, it’s exciting, and it’s fun to be able to tell people that.

Featuring butterfly pea flower tea, along with vodka, peach, kiwi nectar and mint, the Metamorphosis Tea cocktail

A signature brew from Springfield Brewing Co., this golden American lager is

A smash patty served between housemade funnel cake buns?

is poised for a scientific

clean, crisp and smooth. Order 417 Lager

Yes, you read that right. The Warhammer Sliders are topped with

transformation. Simply squeeze

in a can for an easy-drinking experience

bacon, Cotija and bacon jam and dusted with powdered sugar for

your lemon into the drink to see

while you jam to a great band.

what is described by The Cellar team as “a wild ride.”

the color shift from blue to purple. / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

Written by Amy Feese Photography by jennifer silverberg

Tequila-Lime Watermelon Salsa

In this class, we’ll try to cool off with cucumber, mango, watermelon and other refreshing ingredients while savoring myriad flavors from south of the border.

In The Tragedy of Pudd’nhead Wilson, Mark Twain writes, “When one has tasted [watermelon], he knows what the angels eat.” Containing approximately 92 percent water, watermelon is one of summer’s simplest and most delicious pleasures – most of us likely remember devouring slices bigger than our faces as kids. This salsa, spiked with tequila and lime, is a more grown-up way to enjoy the quintessential American fruit.

Get Hands-On Join Schnucks Cooking School chef Amy Feese on Zoom at 4pm on Thu., Aug. 12 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu.

For more information on everything you’ll need for the virtual class, from cookware to ingredients, contact the cooking school directly. nourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/cooking-school or call 314.909.1704

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serves 4

2

1

1 ½ ¼

3

2

2

1

cups seeded and diced watermelon cup peeled, seeded and diced cucumber jalapeño, seeded and minced cup minced red onion cup chopped cilantro limes, zested and juiced Tbsp tequila tsp honey tsp chile powder salt, to taste

MAKE THE MEAL • Tequila-Lime Watermelon Salsa • Coconut Shrimp Tacos with Mango Salsa • Cuban Black Beans and Rice • Classic Leche Flan with Vanilla Bean

/ preparation / In a large bowl, combine watermelon, cucumber, jalapeño, red onion and cilantro.

In a separate bowl, stir together lime zest and juice, tequila, honey and chile powder. Drizzle dressing over watermelon mixture and toss to combine. Serve with your favorite corn tortilla chips.

CULINARY LIBRARY /

columbia, MO

with Frances Harvey / bar manager, Barred Owl Butcher & Table

t If you’ve bellied up to the bar at Barred Owl Butcher & Table in the last few years,

you’ve likely seen Frances Harvey shake or stir a cocktail in front of the elegant library of spirits. In her new role as the restaurant’s bar manager, Harvey takes the reins from “spiritual adviser” Andrew Ruth, shepherding in an exciting female-led bar program with all of the passion and expertise patrons have come to appreciate. Harvey’s skills aren’t corked at the bar, though; she’s also the creative mind behind Fujiko Izakaya, a Japanese pop-up restaurant that’s inspired by her heritage. Always eager to expand her knowledge of flavors and techniques for the glass and the plate, Harvey cherishes inspiration and advice from experts. –Jessica Vaughn Martin photography by kim wade

Meehan’s Bartender Manual

Amaro

Japanese Cooking

by Brad Thomas Parsons (2016)

by Jim Meehan (2017)

by Shizuo Tsuji (1980)

“This is the first boozy book I bought after becoming a bartender at Barred Owl. If you’ve ever stepped up to the bar there, you know it’s overwhelming to say the least.

With section after section of spirits, I knew the least about amaro. The text goes into great detail about each amaro, with helpful tasting notes and plenty of cocktail recipes to make each amaro shine.”

“This book was a birthday present from my friend and mentor, Andrew Ruth. I love it because it isn’t just a collection of cocktail recipes; it hands you the tools to become a quality bartender. It has taught me that pushing a drink across the bar to the guest is important, but efficiency, consistency and the ability to create an atmosphere are things that can change a good bartender into a great one.”

“My passion doesn’t stop at drinks – I love food too! This book, which is more like a textbook than a cookbook, was one of the first to showcase Japanese cuisine, flavor profiles and techniques in English. I reference this more than any other book when I’m looking for inspiration for dinner at home or an upcoming pop up.”

When the world relies on you for healthy food choices, rely on SOYLEIC™ SOYLEIC™ is a non-GMO, high-oleic soybean oil option for today’s kitchens – and those they serve.

• High Smoke Point • Neutral Flavor • Zero Trans Fat • Reduced Waste That means the future of a healthier food system isn’t manufactured – it’s grown. See why chefs are turning to SOYLEIC™.

Missouri

s

soyleic.com

(573) 635-3819 734 S. Country Club Drive, Jefferson City, MO 65109

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

33

A Taste of History

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TXT WINE CLUB TXT WINE CLUB

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

story and recipe by Shannon Weber, writer and recipe developer, aperiodictableblog.com / photography by Jennifer Silverberg

It’s not difficult to love pretzels. The salty, chewy, soft-centered bread pairs perfectly with gooey cheese dip and an ice-cold beer.

But how much do you know about its (1,500-year) history?

The Philly Connection The pretzel arrived on U.S. soil along with German immigrants in the early 1800s, and it found a home away from home in Philadelphia, where a baker named Ambrose Roth accepted a pretzel recipe from a homeless man as thanks for providing him with a hot meal. Roth’s apprentice, Julius Sturgis, fell in love with

Rumor Has It The origin of our favorite twisted treat dates back to 610 A.D., when monks allegedly used fresh-baked pretiolas (Italian for “little rewards”) as incentives for students to complete their work. Some say the distinctive twist in the middle resembles arms folded in prayer, while others

the pretzel, and in 1861, he established the first commercial pretzel bakery in Lititz, Pennsylvania, approximately an hour and a half outside of the city, solidifying Philadelphia as a key player in the pretzel game both then and now.

claim the three holes represent the Holy Trinity. A more universal interpretation says the shape symbolizes love, luck and prosperity.

Pretzels, Presently At some point, pretzels left Italy, en route to southern Germany

In Germany, the pretzel is less snack food and more staple food, served piping hot for

via Austria, where sources say that the pretzel might have

breakfast or alongside an afternoon beer. In the U.S., it’s viewed as more of a treat – required

saved Vienna from Ottoman Turks. As the story goes, monks

eating at baseball games, an indulgent grab as we shop or a baking project for a weekend

(again!) were busy baking pretzels in the lower reaches of

at home. Should we eat more pretzels? Probably, but the best ones are the hot ones, which

their monastery when they heard unusual noises: The Turks

means it’s time to learn how to make them in your own kitchen – which is easier than you think.

were tunneling toward the city in the hope of executing a surprise attack. The monks alerted the

The slightly sweet dough is unfussy, and with the following guidance, you’ll soon be able to

military, and their quick thinking thwarted the ambush. Indebted to the humble pretzel-bakers,

shape it at will. Dipping the pretzels before you bake them seals the deal, and whether you use

the Austrian emperor bestowed upon them their own coat of arms – two fierce lions holding a

lye or baking soda, you’ll get a batch of golden twists that might leave your friends wondering

pretzel between them – which can be spotted in pretzel bakeries across Europe to this day.

if you’re moonlighting as a pretzel baker.

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Behind Every Great Pretzel, There’s Science – No Lye

We’ve all watched as some exuberant pretzel-maker twirls dough into a pretzel at lightning speed, but all that flash can make the process seem more complicated than it is.

As with most things in life, a few tips and a bit of practice will have you well on your way to mastering the craft.

Using a large chef’s knife, divide proofed dough into equal parts (a typical recipe will yield 8 to 10 large pretzels). Set one piece of dough aside and cover the rest with a kitchen towel.

Roll one piece of dough into an even, 30-inch rope.

If dough feels tight, let it rest on the counter, 5 minutes, and then try again. To slacken and even out rope as you roll, lift dough from both ends; smack it against the countertop like a jump rope as you pull your hands away from each other.

The unmistakable flavor, texture and aroma of pretzels isn’t magic; it’s science.

More specifically, it’s the Maillard reaction, a chemical reaction courtesy of a few well-placed proteins and a little heat, which gives food a deep golden exterior, gorgeous crust and flavor boost. Simply baking pretzels won’t do it, which is why the most critical step in pretzel-making is perhaps the prebake dip.

Traditional Bavarian pretzels are dipped in a lye solution, but for the most familyfriendly baking project, try baking soda.

Standard baking soda won’t give you the same level of chemical reaction as lye – the pretzel’s exterior will be golden but noticeably lighter, with less chew to the crust. When dehydrated, however, baking soda becomes more concentrated, making it more caustic – like lye but not as daunting to use in your kitchen.

DIY Boosted Baking Soda yields 1½ cups

PRO TIP “Pretzels are deeply rooted

On the counter, make a “U” shape with the rope, with the sides 6 to 8 inches apart.

Hold both ends and cross them, leaving 5 to 6 inches of rope at the top (those will be your “arms”).

in the European culture, specifically German culture.

For a real Bavarian feel, make your pretzels more inconsistent in size: There should be a thick middle with thin arms to allow for both a crisp and chewy sensation.”

–Lydia Melton, Günter Hans,

Preheat oven to 275°F and line a lipped baking sheet with aluminum foil. Evenly spread 16 ounces (1 standard box) baking soda over foil, shaking to distribute. Bake, 1 hour. (You won’t see any physical changes in color or amount.)

Transfer to wire rack to cool completely and then carefully transfer baking soda to a canning jar. At this point, the baking soda is concentrated and will be more caustic than standard baking soda, so avoid spills or contact with skin. Label jar to avoid mistaking it for standard strength.

PRO TIP

Columbia, Missouri

“The lye dramatically changes the crust and

You can shape the pretzels the day before you plan to serve them and freeze them on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet overnight. Simply set them out to thaw completely before dipping and baking.

gives it that signature mineral flavor that I associate with a good pretzel. It’s essential, in my opinion, if you’re going for perfection.

That being said, lye can be dangerous, and Repeat step 4 to form a spiral with the arms.

Fold arms toward you, pressing the ends firmly into the inside bottom part of the U so that the pretzel holds together during the baking soda dip. Transfer pretzel to a baking sheet and repeat process with remaining pieces of dough.

the baking soda method yields a different but pretty good result that’s still worth the time and effort of making pretzels at home.”

–Brian Lagerstrom, chef, St. Louis / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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the dish / dine & drink / the mix / shop here / MYSTERY SHOPPER / hot blocks / sugar rush / healthy appetite / QUICK FIX / crash course

Serves 8 Soft Pretzels 6½ cups warm water (100°F to 110°F), divided 1 Tbsp brown sugar 1 package (2¼ tsp) active dry yeast 6 Tbsp (¾ stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, divided 1 Tbsp kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling 2 Tbsp fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped, or 3 Tbsp fresh jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped (optional) 1 Tbsp grapeseed or vegetable oil, for bowl ¾ cup baking soda (boosted or regular) 1 large egg, plus 1 tsp water, whisked, for egg wash

Soft Pretzels with Beer Cheese Sauce Pick your poison: plain, rosemary or jalapeño, depending on your mood. And then pair the pretzel of your choice with the perfect cheese dip.

Beer Cheese Sauce (Yields 3 cups) 3 cups shredded cheese, brought to room temperature 5 Tbsp unbleached all-purpose flour, divided 2 Tbsp unsalted butter 12 oz beer ½ cup half and half kosher salt, to taste

If you’re using the Boosted Baking Soda to make these pretzels, you’ll notice that when it hits the water, it crystallizes instead of immediately dissolving.

Not to worry: Just whisk rapidly to dissolve crystals before moving on to the next step.

Freshly made is the best, but if you need to reheat cold beer cheese sauce, add it to a small saucepan and slowly heat, whisking frequently. If it begins to break, add 1 tablespoon boiling water as you whisk and things should go back together in no time.

● Rosemary pretzels with applewood-smoked Cheddar from Hemme Brothers Farmstead Creamery and Moonbase (porter) from Rockwell Beer Co. ● Jalapeño pretzels with 5-Alarm Gouda from Marcoot Jersey Creamery and American Kolsch from Boulevard Brewing Co.

/ preparation – soft pretzels / Add 1½ cups water, brown sugar, yeast and butter to the bowl of a stand mixer; whisk to combine and let sit, 5 minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk together 3½ cups flour and salt; add to stand mixer. If using one of the add-ins, add on top of flour. Mix using the dough hook attachment, adding reserved flour as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, until dough begins to clean the sides of the bowl; knead on low speed, 5 minutes. Remove dough from mixer, shape into a ball and place in oiled bowl. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and set in a warm spot in your kitchen to proof, 1 hour or until dough has doubled in size.

Remove dough from bowl and press gently to remove air; divide into 8 equal parts. Follow steps for shaping pretzels on p. 37.

Preheat oven to 425°F and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Add 5 cups water to a large saucepan and heat until boiling.

Remove from heat and slowly add baking soda, stirring to dissolve as needed; return to a rolling boil. One at a time, add pretzels to water; boil, gently splashing water over top, 45 to 60 seconds.

Remove with a spider strainer and set on prepared baking sheet.

Repeat process with remaining pretzels. Brush each pretzel with egg wash; sprinkle with salt. Bake until deep golden, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer to wire racks to cool slightly. Serve immediately with beer cheese sauce (recipe follows). / preparation – beer cheese sauce / In a bowl, toss shredded cheese with 3 tablespoons flour until evenly coated; set aside. In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt butter and then add remaining flour; whisk until smooth. Whisking constantly, continue cooking, 1 to 2 minutes. Slowly add beer and then half and half as you whisk; continue to whisk until mixture is combined and steaming but not bubbling. Add cheese, a little at a time, whisking between each addition until it’s completely melted before adding more. Whisk in salt. Stir until everything is homogeneous.

PRO TIP “With as many craft beers as we serve, we had to have pretzels on our food menu – they’re the perfect pairing. The salt works as a terrific palate-cleanser when you want to switch between beer styles, and the bready nature soaks up any beer nicely. Our pretzels, made by Farm to Market Bread Co. [in Kansas City, Kansas], have been a crowd-pleaser among imbibers since day one.”

–John Couture, Bier Station, Kansas City

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Brewery winner!

Second Location opening 2022!

2811 E Galloway St | Springfield, MO | 417.861.6400

Congratulations to the 2021 Feast 50 Winners & Nominees!

30 years serving our community From silverware to walk in coolers and everything in between. call for Personal service (636)-244-2378

4024 N Service Rd, St Peters, MO 63376

www.stcharlesrestaurantequipment.com / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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THE SECRET’S OUT!

SECRETSANDWICHSGF.COM

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THANKS FEAST READERS FOR VOTING US BEST NEW RESTAURANT & BEST SANDWICH SHOP IN SPRINGFIELD!

it's tim e c you elebra to r fa t vor e ites

R

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ARD

S

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!

202 1

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E IC

After an incredibly challenging year for the local restaurant industry, we’re excited to finally have an excuse to celebrate.

For the 10th year in a row, we’re recognizing the winners and runners-up in our Feast 50 Awards, as voted by you, our readers. From succulent barbecued burnt ends to elevated tasting menus and everything in between, our annual readers’ choice awards recognize the best of the best across the region.

Whether you’re looking for a new coffee shop to kick off your day or a happy hour spot to unwind with friends, let this year’s awards serve as a guide to exploring both new and old favorites around town. The past year has proven that our region is home to a passionate, hardworking and innovative community of culinary minds, and we hope you’ll join us in raising a toast to the incredible chefs, restaurants, winemakers, brewers, distillers, producers and more who make this such a delicious place to call home.

st. louis p. 42

kansas city p. 44

springfield p. 46

columbia p. 48

MISSOURI / a u gu s t 2 02 1

41

Burger

Pizza

toasted ravioli

Mac’s Local Eats

Grace Meat + Three

Katie’s Pizza & pasta Osteria

Anthonino’s

Runner-Up: Hi-Pointe Drive-In

Runner-Up: Hodak’s

Runner-Up: Dewey’s Pizza

Runner-Up: Charlie Gitto’s on the Hill

Sandwich Shop

Butcher Shop

Food Truck: Savory

Food Truck: Sweet

Balkan Treat Box

Vincent Van Doughnut

Gioia’s Deli

Kenrick’s Meat and Catering

Runner-Up: Blues City Deli

Runner-Up: Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

Runner-Up: Seoul Taco

Runner-Up: Sarah’s Cake Stop

Confectioner

Bake Shop

Ice Cream & Custard

Donut Shop

Crown Candy Kitchen

Nathaniel Reid Bakery

Clementine’s Naughty & Nice Creamery

Runner-Up: Nathaniel Reid Bakery

Runner-Up: La Bonne Bouchee

Runner-Up: Ted Drewes

service

Bar Program: Wine

Olive + Oak Runner-Up: Sidney Street Cafe

Winery

Sasha’s Wine Bar Runner-Up: Olive + Oak

Distillery

Bar Program: Cocktails

Planter’s House Runner-Up: Olive + Oak

brewery

Donut Drive-In

Runner-Up: Strange Donuts

Bar Program: beer

of the

David Sandusky BEAST Butcher and Block Runner-Up: Evy Swoboda, Brasserie

pastry chef

Simone Faure, La Patisserie Chouquette Runner-Up: MJ Stewart, Olive + Oak

Coffee Roaster

Side Project Cellar

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co.

Runner-Up: Three Kings Public House

Runner-Up: Sump Coffee

Mixologist

Coffee shop

Wild Sun Winery

Pinckney Bend Distillery

4 Hands Brewing Co.

Randi Kranz, Mission Taco Joint

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co.

Runner-Up: Chandler Hill Vineyards

Runner-Up: 1220 Spirits

Runner-Up: Schlafly Beer and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

Runner-Up: Ted Kilgore, Planter’s House

Runner-Up: Sump Coffee

Caterer

artisan food shop

kitchen/bar store

Store: Wine Selection

Store: beer Selection

Runner-Up: Kitchen Conservatory

Runner-Up: The Wine & Cheese Place

Seafood

Steakhouse

Butler’s Pantry

DiGregorio’s Market

Runner-Up: The Art of Entertaining

Runner-Up: Parker’s Table

Intoxicology

Barbecue

Vegetarian-only

Sugarfire Smoke House

Lulu’s Local Eatery

Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co.

Runner-Up: Salt + Smoke

Runner-Up: Frida’s

Happy Hour

Fast-Casual

total wine & more

Randall’s Wine & Spirits Runner-Up: Total Wine & More

Diner

Tucker’s Place

Southwest Diner

Runner-Up: Broadway Oyster Bar

Runner-Up: Annie Gunn’s

Runner-Up: Courtesy Diner

Brunch

Outdoor Dining

Vin de Set

Fine/Contemporary Dining

The Shack Runner-Up: Rooster

Runner-Up: John D. McGurk’s

Balkan Treat Box

Mission Taco Joint

Runner-Up: Sauce on the Side

Runner-Up: Planter’s House

Chinese

Vietnamese

Lona’s Lil Eats

Mai Lee

drunken fish

Seoul Taco

The King and I Restaurant

Runner-Up: LuLu Seafood & Dim Sum

Runner-Up: Pho Grand

Runner-Up: Indo

Runner-Up: Joo Joo Restaurant

Runner-Up: Pad Thai St. Louis

Italian

cheesemaker

Bread Baker

Charcuterie Maker

Runner-Up: Marcoot Jersey Creamery

Runner-Up: Companion

Runner-Up: Salume Beddu

Mission Taco Joint

Trattoria Marcella

Runner-Up: Pueblo Solis

Runner-Up: Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria

feastmagazine.com / a ug ust 2 0 2 1

Japanese

baetje Farms

Korean

Union Loafers

Sidney Street Cafe Runner-Up: Annie Gunn’s

Thai

Volpi Foods

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MABEL SUEN

Mexican

42

Fried Chicken

new

r e s ta u r a n t Diego’s cantina y cocina Runner-Up: O+O Pizza

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

43

Pam Liberda Waldo Thai Place

Runner-Up: Carl Thorne-Thomsen, Story

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Best new r e s ta u r a n t

Blackhole Bakery Runner-Up: Billie’s Grocery

pastry chef

burnt ends

Fried Chicken

Stroud’s

Minsky’s Pizza

Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que

Runner-Up: Westport Flea Market

Runner-Up: Rye

Runner-Up: Waldo Pizza

Runner-Up: Q39

Sandwich Shop

Butcher Shop

Food Truck: Savory

Food Truck: Sweet

Wiener Wagon

Betty Rae’s Ice Cream

Runner-Up: Broadway Butcher Shop

Runner-Up: Tamaleon KC

Runner-Up: Cafe Cà Phê

Donut Shop

BRGR Kitchen + Bar

Pigwich

Runner-Up: Bay Boy Specialty Sandwiches

Confectioner

Local Pig

Keara Masson, Rye Leawood

Christopher Elbow Chocolates

Bake Shop

Ice Cream & Custard

Blackhole Bakery

Betty Rae’s Ice Cream

Runner-Up: Ashleigh Luna, Ashleigh’s Bakeshop

Runner-Up: André’s Confiserie Suisse

Runner-Up: McLain’s Market

Runner-Up: Fairway Creamery

Runner-Up: Blackhole Bakery

service

Bar Program: Wine

Bar Program: Cocktails

Bar Program: beer

Coffee Roaster

Waldo Thai Place

Ça Va

Runner-Up: Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room

Runner-Up: Tannin Wine Bar & Kitchen

Winery

Distillery

Waldo Thai Place

Runner-Up: Mean Mule Distilling Co.

Bier Station

LaMar’s Donuts

The Roasterie

Runner-Up: Grünauer

Runner-Up: Messenger Coffee Co.

Mixologist

Coffee shop

J. Rieger & Co.

Crane Brewing Co.

Darrell Loo, Waldo Thai Place

The Roasterie

Runner-Up: Amigoni Urban Winery

Runner-Up: Tom’s Town Distilling Co.

Runner-Up: Boulevard Brewing Co.

Runner-Up: Andrew Olsen, J. Rieger & Co.

Runner-Up: Messenger Coffee Co. and Cafe Cà Phê

Caterer

artisan food shop

Store: beer Selection

Jowler Creek Winery

brewery

French Market

Pryde’s Kitchen & Necessities

kitchen/bar store

Store: Wine Selection

Runner-Up: Brancato’s Catering

Runner-Up: Local Pig

Runner-Up: Mitch e Amaro

Runner-Up: Cellar Rat Wine Merchants

The Russell

Lukas Liquors

Lukas Liquors

Runner-Up: Gomer’s Midtown

Barbecue

Vegetarian-only

Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que

Billie’s Grocery

Bristol Seafood Grill

The Capital Grille

Town Topic

Runner-Up: Q39

Runner-Up: Café Gratitude

Runner-Up: Jarocho Pescados y Mariscos

Runner-Up: Golden Ox

Runner-Up: Corner Cafe

Fast-Casual

Happy Hour

Fine/Contemporary Dining

Seafood

Steakhouse

Diner

Brunch

Outdoor Dining

La Bodega

The Farmhouse

Chicken N Pickle

Runner-Up: Pigwich

Runner-Up: Extra Virgin

Runner-Up: Rye

Runner-Up: Gram & Dun

Chinese

Vietnamese

Japanese

Drunken Fish

Korean

Blue Koi

Vietnam Cafe

Sura Eats

Waldo Thai Place

Runner-Up: Bo Lings

Runner-Up: Pho KC

Runner-Up: Jun’s

Runner-Up: Kobi-Q

Runner-Up: Lulu’s Thai Noodle Shop

Italian

cheesemaker

Bread Baker

Charcuterie Maker

Runner-Up: Hemme Brothers Creamery

Runner-Up: Meshuggah Bagels

Runner-Up: Fritz’s Smoked Meats and Superior Sausage Co.

Hawaiian Bros. Island Grill

PHOTOGRAPHY BY zach bauman

Pizza

Burger

Mexican

Jarocho Pescados y Mariscos

Garozzo’s Ristorante

Runner-Up: Ponak’s Mexican Kitchen & Bar

Runner-Up: Lidia’s Kansas City

Green Dirt Farm

Ibis Bakery

The Antler Room Runner-Up: Corvino Supper Club & Tasting Room

Thai

Local Pig

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

45

of the

cashew chicken

Hot Cluckers

Pizza House

Leong’s Asian Diner

Runner-Up: Lindberg’s Tavern

Runner-Up: Civil Kitchen & Tap

Runner-Up: The Big Slice

Runner-Up: Hong Kong Inn

Sandwich Shop

Butcher Shop

Food Truck: Savory

Food Truck: Sweet

London Calling Pasty Co.

Pineapple Whip

Runner-Up: Tacos El Champu

Runner-Up: Dani’s Flour Pot Bakery

Fried Chicken

Black Sheep Burgers & Shakes

anna davis private chef

Runner-Up: Daniel Ernce, Progress

Secret Sandwich Shop Runner-Up: Sub Shop

Runner-Up: City Butcher

Confectioner

Bake Shop

Ice Cream & Custard

Prairie Pie

Andy’s Frozen Custard

St. George’s Donuts

Eleanor Taylor, Prairie Pie

Runner-Up: Tea Bar & Bites

Runner-Up: Sweet Emotion

Runner-Up: Hurts Donut Co.

Runner-Up: Christina Sava, European Café

Bar Program: Wine

Bar Program: Cocktails

Bar Program: beer

Coffee Roaster

European Café

Runner-Up: Askinosie Chocolate

service

Farmers Gastropub

Cherry Picker Package x Fare

Runner-Up: Progress

Runner-Up: Cellar + Plate

Winery

Distillery

Harter House

The Golden Girl Rum Club Runner-Up:

Vantage Rooftop Lounge and Conservatory

brewery

Donut Shop

Farmers Gastropub

Runner-Up: Best of Luck Beer Hall

Mixologist

pastry chef

The Coffee Ethic Runner-Up: Mudhouse Coffee

Coffee shop

St. James Winery

Copper Run Distillery

4 by 4 Brewing Co.

Rogan Howitt, Good Spirits & Co.

Mudhouse Coffee

Runner-Up: 7C’s Winery

Runner-Up: J. Rieger & Co. in Kansas City

Runner-Up: Beard Engine Brewing Co.

Runner-Up: Beau Norman, The Order

Runner-Up: The Coffee Ethic

Caterer

artisan food shop

kitchen/bar store

Store: Wine Selection

Store: beer Selection

Runner-Up: Macadoodles

The Wheelhouse

Brown Derby

Brown Derby

Runner-Up: Bambinos Cafe

Runner-Up: Chabom Tea + Spices

Runner-Up: The Market

Barbecue

Vegetarian-only

Piccolo

Seafood

City Butcher

Runner-Up: Crosstown Barbecue

Runner-Up: Café Cusco

Brown Derby

Steakhouse

Runner-Up: Char Steakhouse and Oyster Bar

Runner-Up: Flame Steakhouse

Runner-Up: Early Bird Breakfast Pub

Fine/Contemporary Dining

Brunch

Outdoor Dining

Farmers Gastropub

Runner-Up: Team Taco

Runner-Up:

Runner-Up: Aviary by Lavender Falls

Runner-Up: Millsap Farm

Vietnamese

Japanese

Korean

Progress Runner-Up: Harvest and The Finley

Thai

Leong’s Asian Diner

Bambu Vietnamese Cuisine

Haruno Sushi bar & Grill

Bawi Korean BBQ

Everyday Thai

Runner-Up: Hong Kong Inn

Runner-Up: Pho Kim

Runner-Up: Hinode Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi

Runner-Up: Koriya

Runner-Up: Rama Thai Café

Mexican

Italian

Cesar’s Old Mexico Runner-Up: Tortilleria Perches

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Piccolo

Terrell Creek Farm

Neighbor’s Mill Bakery & Café

Bread Baker

Charcuterie Maker

Runner-Up: Bambinos Cafe

Runner-Up: Edgewood Creamery

Runner-Up: The Artisan’s Oven

Runner-Up: Hörrmann Meats

cheesemaker

City Butcher

PHOTOGRAPHY by tessa cooper

Chinese

Diner

Gailey’s Breakfast Cafe

Farmers Gastropub

Vantage Rooftop Lounge and Conservatory

Runner-Up: Brown Derby

Jimm’s Steakhouse & Pub

Farmers Gastropub

Happy Hour

Macadoodles

Progress

The Press Coffee & Juice Bar

Fast-Casual

46

Pizza

Burger

new

r e s ta u r a n t secret sandwich shop Runner-Up: Blackstone Gastropub

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

47

amanda elliot & benjamin hamrah beet box

Runner-Up: Ben Parks, Barred Owl Butcher & Table

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Best new r e s ta u r a n t

the strollway market Runner-Up: Casa Maria’s Mexican Cantina

pastry chef

College Bar

Pizza Tree

Shiloh Bar & Grill

Runner-Up: Just Jeff’s

Runner-Up: Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co.

Runner-Up: Shakespeare’s Pizza

Runner-Up: Harpo’s Bar & Grill

Sandwich Shop

Sub Shop

Barred Owl Butcher & table

Food Truck

Late-Night Dining

Ozark Mountain Biscuit Co.

Murry’s

Runner-Up: The Strollway Market

Runner-Up: Hoss’s Market

Runner-Up: Jamaican Jerk Hut

Runner-Up: Pizza Tree

Confectioner

Bake Shop

Ice Cream & Custard

Donut Shop

Runner-Up: Zoe McDermit, Beet Box

Runner-Up: Patric Chocolate

service

Bar Program: Wine

Winery

Pizza

Ms. Kim’s Fish & Chicken shack

The Candy Factory

Runner-Up: Flyover

Fried Chicken

Booches

Jenna Rozum, Sommersweet Bakery

Barred Owl Butcher & Table

Top Ten Wines

Runner-Up: Cherry Street Cellar

Distillery

Butcher Shop

Peggy Jean’s Pies

Sparky’s Homemade Ice Cream

Harold’s Doughnuts

Runner-Up: Uprise Bakery

Runner-Up: Andy’s Frozen Custard

Runner-Up: Ellianna’s Donut Shop

Bar Program: Cocktails

Bar Program: beer

Coffee Roaster

Barred Owl Butcher & Table Runner-Up: Flyover

brewery

44 Stone Public House Runner-Up: Günter Hans

Mixologist

Fretboard Coffee Runner-Up: Lakota Coffee Co.

Coffee shop

Les Bourgeois Vineyards

DogMaster Distillery

Logboat Brewing Co.

Frances Harvey, Barred Owl Butcher & Table

Fretboard Coffee

Runner-Up: Adam Puchta Winery

Runner-Up: Pinckney Bend Distillery

Runner-Up: Last Flight Brewing Co.

Runner-Up: Dan Dethrow, Flyover

Runner-Up: Lakota Coffee Co.

Caterer

artisan food shop

Store: beer Selection

Clovers Natural Market

Columbia Farmers Market

Farmers’ Market

Store: Wine Selection

Runner-Up: Word of Mouth Catering

Runner-Up: Boone Olive Oil Co.

Runner-Up: Boone County Farmers Market

Runner-Up: Top Ten Wines

PeachTree Catering

Macadoodles

Macadoodles Runner-Up: Hy-Vee

Barbecue

Vegetarian-only

Como Smoke and Fire

Main Squeeze

Cajun Crab House

CC’s City Broiler

Broadway Diner

Runner-Up: Big Daddy’s BBQ

Runner-Up: Nourish Café & Market

Runner-Up: Chris McD’s Restaurant

Runner-Up: Chris McD’s Restaurant

Runner-Up: Ernie’s Café & Steakhouse

Outdoor Dining

Fine/Contemporary Dining

Fast-Casual

PHOTOGRAPHY by aaron ottis

Burger

Happy Hour

Seafood

Brunch

Steakhouse

Beet Box

Flat Branch Pub & Brewing

Cafe Berlin

Flat Branch Pub & Brewing

Runner-Up: Just Jeff’s

Runner-Up: Room 38 Restaurant & Lounge

Runner-Up: Sophia’s

Runner-Up: Les Bourgeois Vineyards

Italian

Chinese

Japanese

Korean

Diner

Barred Owl Butcher & Table Runner-Up: Catalpa

Thai

Pasta la Fata

House of Chow

Kampai Alley

Kojaba and Seoul Taco

Bangkok Gardens

Runner-Up: The Pasta Factory

Runner-Up: Peking Restaurant

Runner-Up: Jina Yoo’s Asian Bistro

Runner-Up: I Am Sushi and Grill

Runner-Up: Tiger Chef

cheesemaker

Bread Baker

Charcuterie Maker

local favorite

Barred Owl Butcher & Table

Murry’s

Runner-Up: Burgers’ Smokehouse

Runner-Up: Flat Branch Pub & Brewing and Shakespeare’s Pizza

Mexican

Las Margaritas

Hemme Brothers Creamery

Runner-Up: Taqueria Don Pancho

Runner-Up: Goatsbeard Farm

Uprise Bakery

Runner-Up: Fiddle & Stone Bread Co.

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

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52 let the fun be gin Gin Hall of Famer Natasha Bahrami strives to improve people’s perceptions of the spirit that changed her life.

57 turning the tide Waves Cider Co. is bringing the tradition of cider-making back to Missouri.

63 it’s only natural John-Paul and Julie Fortney of F&R Imports connect Missouri restaurants and shops with the small-batch French natural wines that they love.

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

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Natasha Bahrami remembers the exact moment when a dirty gin Martini changed her life.

Granted, she’d had numerous Martinis before this particular occurrence; the cocktail was her drink of choice when she was feeling particularly taxed after a day running her family’s restaurant, Cafe Natasha, in St. Louis, and, as she jokes, those stressful days were frequent.

However, on this particular night, Bahrami happened to sit at the bar of an obviously seasoned barman.

Instead of pouring the typical vodka and olive juice concoction, the drink he served her tasted different. It was dry, round and flawlessly balanced, and she sat awestruck on her stool, wondering what made the difference.

When he told her it was the gin, her fate was sealed.

Written by Cheryl Baehr Photography by paige mcdonald

“It was the best Martini I’d had,” says Bahrami. “What that meant was that person knew how to make a proper Martini. If they hadn’t known how to make a proper Martini that day, I probably would have had a vodka and olive juice thing and would have never had the catalyst to even start understanding gin. That gin Martini blew my mind; it tasted like nothing I’d ever had.”

That moment 18 years ago might have been the catalyst that sent Bahrami down a rabbit hole that turned her into one of the world’s premier gin professionals, but her path to the top of the spirits world began much earlier – before she was even able to walk down it. Born to restaurateurs Behshid and Hamishe Bahrami not long after they’d opened

drink, she’d taken a deep dive into the world of gin, learning

their first restaurant, The Little Kitchen, Bahrami was so little

everything she could about the spirit and falling deeper in love

when she started going to work with her parents that her dad

with it by the day. Unable to let it go and becoming increasingly

built a cradle underneath the counter to rock her to sleep

enthusiastic, she made the decision to dip her toe back in the

during business hours. She spent her entire upbringing in

industry and established gin programs at the D.C. restaurants

their restaurants, by her parents’ sides as they grew The Little

where she worked. Her success boosted her confidence –

Kitchen and then opened their second Persian restaurant,

enough to walk into the city’s premier gin bar, The Gin Joint, and

Cafe Natasha. She always recognized the business as her

ask for a job.

natural path, but she didn’t want to embark on it out of sheer momentum, if at all.

The Gin Joint gig changed her trajectory, not just because she was allowed to indulge her passion for the spirit and share it

Instead, Bahrami set out to forge her own path, moving to

with her guests; it showed her that it was possible to run a gin-

Spain, Lebanon and eventually Washington, D.C., where she

centric bar inside a successful restaurant. It didn’t take long for

got jobs in international policy and IT. Through it all, though,

her thoughts to turn toward her family’s own restaurant and

that gin Martini from 2003 haunted her. After that first proper

whether or not she could create a similar scene there.

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“We have this well-established restaurant that people come to because they want to eat,” says Bahrami. “They are already loyal customers. I figured, ‘What’s the worst that could happen?’ If it didn’t take off, I was just going to have a really big gin collection.”

Bahrami returned to St. Louis in 2014, focused on not only establishing a great gin bar but on fomenting a movement. She returned to a cocktail scene much different than the one she’d left behind. Back when she tasted that momentous Martini, there was no serious cocktail scene in town and only a handful of restaurants with respectable drink lists. Now, the city had embraced well-made drinks by bar professionals intent on creating beverages to match the vibrant food scene that had blossomed in the mid-2000s.

Ted Kilgore was one of those cocktail trailblazers.

A veteran barman whose spirits selection and drink lists at the late Monarch was one of the main sparks that lit the city’s beverage scene afire, Kilgore recalls the beginnings of the cocktail renaissance. As he explains, guests were growing increasingly inquisitive about food and beverage in general, thanks to platforms such as the Food Network and other food-centric media. People would come into restaurants curious to taste what innovative chefs were doing, so it was only natural that their interest would extend to what they were drinking, too.

“People would be drinking a Bud Light at the bar, but they’d be watching as we made something and ask questions like crazy,” recalls Kilgore. “The next thing you’d know they would switch out their Bud Light for a gin Martini with an egg white in it. It was crazy to see things all change.”

If drinking culture in general was changing, so was overall interest in gin. Once considered an aggressively juniper-forward spirit preferred by grandfathers and great-uncles, bar professionals began to take another look thanks to the rise in interest in classic cocktails. What they found – like Bahrami when she tasted that flawless Martini – was a complex, thrilling libation with an interesting history ripe for storytelling.

Craft gins helped them tell that story. Although consumers had a perception of gin as a pine-needle bomb, craft distillers began playing around with the different botanicals that comprise the spirit to create flavors for all palates. No longer all about juniper, gins became floral, citrusy, spicy.

Kilgore observed this mindset shift around 2009 or 2010 when bar professionals, buoyed by robust cocktail programs at a number of establishments, had the platform to educate people on all the exciting things happening with the spirit. As he explains, the more

Natasha's 5 favorite local gins

bartenders became educated on gin, the more

Tom’s Town Botanical Gin

passionate they became about the storytelling

J. Rieger Midwestern Dry Gin

aspect of it. Their excitement was infectious,

1220 Gin & Canned Cocktails

turning gin into the “cool kids” drink to order.

The spirit was poised to seize its moment – and Bahrami was ready for it.

Samuel Berton Barrel-Aged Gin Restless Spirits Builders Botanical Gin

“Natasha’s family’s business has history, and she had a platform where she could send any message – and she chose gin,” says Kilgore.

“She’s passionate every single time, doesn’t get tired of it and has fun with it every day. I admire that. She hasn’t worked anywhere else in St. Louis because she’s staked her claim on it, and that’s what it takes to get people to listen. Very few people are willing to stick with a message and be passionate about it day in and day out.”

Not long before Bahrami returned to St. Louis, another factor helped to fuel the city’s burgeoning interest in gin. Two craft distillers, Square One Brewery & Distillery in St. Louis and Pinckney Bend Distillery in New Haven, Missouri, came online in 2008 and 2010, respectively, giving area bartenders local products to support. As one of Pinckney Bend’s founders Tom Anderson explains, having a resource like Bahrami to champion his products was instrumental in generating

and cocktails in general, turning her bar into the

bars around town, St. Louisans embraced

showed up, resulting in a bona fide festival

enthusiasm for the spirit.

premier gin spot in the city.

the spirit and were eager to support the

that gave her the confidence and momentum

increasing number of Missouri craft distillers

to continue building her platform, Ginworld, a

“Back in the day, we’d take our staff down to

The setting helped her case. Converting the bar

that were coming on the scene. Using her

model for other cities to celebrate her beloved

Cafe Natasha to go through all the gins area by

side of her family’s two-room restaurant into

Gin Girl brand as a platform to empower this

spirit. Intended as a way to help other areas

area,” recalls Anderson. “It was the one place

an homage to gin, Bahrami created a scene in

enthusiasm, Bahrami

where we could go and have a great meal and

which it’s impossible to come in and not want to

capitalized on the

use it as a teaching tool for our staff.”

know more. Her back bar goes all the way up to

momentum and began

the ceiling, each rose-hued lit shelf lined with

to turn her attention

Bahrami might have been fomenting big

one gin bottle after the next. It’s a breathtaking

to growing St. Louis’

changes in the city’s gin scene, but she was

display, featuring almost 300 bottles sorted by

reputation as a major

doing it at a grassroots level. In the early days

flavor profile – think London dry, floral bouquet

player in gin.

of The Gin Room, she would talk to every single

or warm baking spice – that’s only bolstered by

person who walked through the door about gin

her housemade tonics, tinctures and shrubs.

The first Gin Festival

and convince those who wanted a drink to try a

Two murals – one of the gin flavor wheel and

St. Louis was a major

gin cocktail. They might not have been there for

the other of the distillation process – replaced

turning point for

a spirits seminar, but anyone who would listen

Cafe Natasha’s Persian-inspired artwork,

Bahrami and the

received an education in gin. Dubbing herself

letting people know that this is more than a

city’s gin scene. At

“If you can get people excited about what you are excited about, and do it day after day, it changes people’s perceptions.”

“The Gin Girl,” Bahrami refused to simply

place to drink; it’s a place to immerse oneself in

first envisioned as

honor a guest’s request for a vodka cocktail

the appreciation of the spirit.

a half-serious idea

Ted Kilgore, Planter’s House

without a thoughtful sales pitch on why they

create their own thriving gin scenes, Bahrami’s Ginworld now has a presence in major cities such as New York and Washington, D.C. and is the successful brand under which she runs all of her ginrelated efforts.

“Why Natasha?” asks Anderson. “She would travel, and when she’d

for a birthday party, Bahrami decided to send

find a gin she liked, she’d stuff a couple bottles

should reconsider. A citrusy or floral style of

By creating change in her small corner of

out Willy Wonka-style golden invitations to

in her suitcase and show it to everybody. Who

gin served as a gimlet would often do the trick;

South Grand, Bahrami was also seeing change

anyone and everyone she respected in the

does that? She is relentless when it comes to

people not only listened, they began looking to

happen in the larger food and beverage

international gin community, inviting them to

her focus on what it is she wants to accomplish

her as a gin guide who had the knowledge and

community. Armed with the knowledge they

a gin festival she was putting on in honor of

with each of these projects – whether it was

enthusiasm to help them learn about the spirit

picked up at The Gin Room and other cocktail

her birthday. To her surprise, almost everyone

Ginworld or supporting local distilleries, she

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Kenrick’s is the best place to make any meal or occasion

DELICIOUS.

wouldn’t let up. She doesn’t know the

true to her nature and championing spirit,

meaning of the word no. I think she saw

she refuses to bask in the accolade and

the potential before any of us did.”

instead insists that it just means she has more work to do – and that she could not

“Her passion definitely rubs off,” adds

have achieved what she has anywhere else

Kilgore. “If you can get people excited

but at home in St. Louis.

about what you are excited about, and do it day after day, it changes people’s

“Moving back here was not circumstantial,”

perceptions.”

says Bahrami. “I didn’t come back because I had to. I’ve lived all over the world, and St.

This past February, Bahrami was

Louis and Missouri have some of the best

recognized for her impact on the category

people in the world – from the consumers

of gin when she was inducted into the Gin

to the people who have kept the culinary

Hall of Fame by Gin Magazine. It was a

and cocktail scenes exploding. We have

momentous honor; Bahrami is the first

some of the best and most supportive

and only American to have been inducted

people who care to learn more and want

into the Gin Hall of Fame, and she is only

to be involved and want to support a

one of nine people in the entire world

scene. I knew that, and I knew we were

to hold the honor, which includes such

primed and ready. I wanted to come

notable names as master distillers Lesley

back to my hometown and prove it here

Gracie of Hendrick’s Gin, Desmond Payne

because I knew we could do it here. It was

of Beefeater and Myriam Hendrickx of

one of the best decisions I’ve made in

Rutte Distillery. The magnitude of the

my entire life.”

honor cannot be understated, and Bahrami admits to being in shock when she

3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, Missouri,

received word of her induction. However,

natashasginroom.com

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century ago, the fertile land by the Missouri River teemed with hundreds of acres of apple trees full of fruit ready to be plucked and shipped to New Orleans and, from there, across the oceans. Boone County, Missouri, was a leading producer of apples, all for eating, baking and even making cider, which at the time was more popular than beer. But in 1940, a bitter frost took out the plentiful crop used to make the then-favorite alcoholic beverage of the U.S., and Missouri hasn’t been known for its apple-growing abilities since. That could all change, though, with the introduction of a new cider company in the heart of the state. The team behind the craft beer company Logboat Brewing Co. is trying their hand at craft cider with their newest venture, Waves Cider Co. Along the way, they just might rewrite the story of Missouri and apple cider.

Photography by Aaron Ottis

A

Written by Hope Timmermann

In Columbia, Waves Cider Co. is restoring cider’s roots in Missouri — one apple tree at a time.

After experiencing great success with Logboat, which launched in 2014 and now sells beer in 53 counties across Missouri, the brewery’s founding members opened Waves Cider Co. in 2020. Along with the rest of the Waves crew, co-founder Judson Ball and head cidermaker Josh Rein are now on a mission to make drinking cider just as natural for Missourians as cracking open a Budweiser. / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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Ball and Rein were hardly cider experts when they set off on this journey. Rein has brewed beer professionally for the past 14 years and served as Logboat’s brewmaster since its opening, yet cider was an entirely different game than craft beer – one that wasn’t widely played in Missouri. Currently, there are approximately 20 cideries across the state, compared to at least five times that many craft breweries. Ball and Rein weren’t sure what it would take to turn the tide, but they knew they wanted to make both loyal fans and new customers think outside of the box and get out of their comfort zone.

“I think there were people in the community who wanted to support us but couldn’t have beer or didn’t like beer, so we thought it was time to diversify,” says Ball. For him, this was a personal exploration, too: Ball is allergic to wheat, barley and rye, which means he’s unable to drink the beer his company brews. It didn’t take long for him to disappear down the rabbit hole of gluten-free cider. “There were some really, really interesting options, and my mind was blown by how different everything could be in the world of cider,” says Ball. “I fell in love with that, and it piqued Josh’s interest, too.”

“The culture around American cider is like the Wild West,” explains Rein. “There are so many flavors that can come through in cider, just based on the apple, its growing season and where it’s harvested, like a wine varietal. Unlike craft brewing, there aren’t a lot of rules for making cider.”

While cider is often compared to beer, it’s actually more closely related to wine, and the process for making it is nearly the same: Apples are harvested and mashed to a pulp, and the juice is then drained and fermented. Just like with wine, the flavor of cider varies depending on the apple used to produce its juice – and not every apple is cut out for cider.

“The culture around American cider is like the Wild West,” explains Rein. “There are so many flavors that can come through in cider, just based on the apple, its growing season and where it’s harvested, like a wine varietal. Unlike craft brewing, there aren’t a lot of rules for making cider.”

Apples have four flavor profiles: sweet, sharp, bittersweet and bittersharp. There are culinary apples, which are good for snacking and cooking, and there are cider apples, which are bitter and sour. The vast majority of apples grown in commercial orchards in the U.S. are culinary apples because of their desired sweetness. Both apple types are used to make cider, though, and often, they’re used together to produce a balanced flavor profile.

What shines through in the end product comes down to a few key elements: tannins, sugar and acid levels as well as moisture inside the apple. Weather and orchard location also come into play here. A drier climate can lead to less moisture in the apples, which results in a highly concentrated flavor and, thus, a more robustly flavored cider. Bitter apples, including the tart Chisel Jersey cider apple, have more tannins, which give a cider body, drinkability and distinct flavor. To craft Waves’ current lineup, Rein uses a blend of culinary apples such as Honeycrisp, Fuji, Granny Smith and Pink Lady, PICTURED: Head cidermaker Josh Rein (left) and co-founder Judson Ball (right)

mixed with high-tannin and high-acid juice from more traditional cider apples to create complex ciders with plenty of character.

To source the perfect juice for Waves’ ciders, Rein works with producers at The Source Cider in Wenatchee, Washington; Happy Apples in Union, Missouri; and a small orchard in Columbia. From there, it’s time for fermentation, which produces aromatic compounds called esters that give each cider its own unique aroma, like a floral bouquet.

After the juice ferments, Rein adds in elements to help round out each brew – think wine yeast for character, oak chips for body and orange for an unexpected kiss of flavor.

Waves’ flagship ciders are the dry and semi-dry, both of which more closely resemble wine than beer. The dry cider, for instance, is made with Champagne yeast for a flavor profile uncannily like a bottle of good bubbly, featuring nose-tickling effervescence and notes of apple and melon. By adding oak chips during the fermentation process, Rein balances the cider’s natural acidity without adding sugar. For the semi-dry cider, he uses Sauvignon Blanc yeast for a tropical fruit- and citrus-forward flavor profile. The addition of wine yeasts results in a dry character while keeping the ciders light enough for easy drinking. / a u gu s t 2 02 1

59

In addition to its signature canned ciders, Waves also offers several large-format, seasonal special releases for sale in the taproom that showcase its whimsical side. The brilliant pink rosé cider is made from juicy red-fleshed Red Wave apples; put your nose to the bottle and you’ll be transported to a berry patch. Aged in a foeder (a giant oak tank used in winemaking and traditional European brewing) for six months, the blend boasts a spicier, oakier flavor profile than the dry cider, while the Cider-Mosa is a one-can wonder made with dry cider and blood orange juice that’s perfect for brunch. With each selection, Waves charts unexpected flavor territory – as it did with the hibiscus-green tea cider that debuted in May – while keeping its ciders accessible for those new to the beverage.

Making cider in Missouri doesn’t just give Waves the option to introduce a local product to cider newbies; it also poses the opportunity to work with local farmers and practice the art of apple-growing on Missouri soil. Waves is collaborating with local apple farmer Adam Saunders, who serves as the development director at the Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture, to plant and eventually grow hundreds of apple varieties in a test orchard near the Three Creeks Conservation Area outside of Columbia.

As part of his passion project, Adam’s Apples, Saunders has propagated varieties of apples originally discovered in England, Spain, Japan, New Zealand and closer to home in the Midwest to plant in this orchard. Together, he and the Waves crew can experiment to see which varieties can successfully grow in the Missouri climate and which varieties will make a delicious drink.

“It’s playing the long game,” Saunders says of planting and growing an apple orchard. “They’re jumping right in and innovating and putting a Midwest flavor to cider-making.”

The orchard will feature apple varieties such as Golden Russet, Winesap and Porter's Perfection. Rein is particularly excited to see how the traditional cider apples fare. Hopefully, after several years of growth, the orchard will result in major juice volume for the cidery and give both Rein and Saunders a better idea of what the future of apple-growing in Missouri can look like.

Saunders, which means Waves can pull straight from

“It’s playing the long game. They’re jumping right in and innovating and putting a Midwest flavor to cider-making.”

their own backyard to source their apple juice.

Adam Saunders, Columbia Center for Urban Agriculture

“Over time, I’ll have a bigger list of proper cider apple varieties that grow well right here in Missouri,” says

A successful orchard crop opens the beverage company up to the vast possibilities of new cider flavors that start from apples that are propagated, planted, grown and harvested right here at home.

If the orchard is successful, it will be a testament to local apple-growing enthusiasts and farmers: This soil can once again sustain a healthy apple yield, and that can open up doors for farmers looking to diversify their crops.

Planting a local apple orchard, partnering with area farmers and building an inviting tasting room with a clear view into their production space – it’s all part of the founders’ mission to give the community a front-row seat to their cider-making process. It’s also an opportunity for fans of their beer to explore cider’s potential. It’s been a long time since Missouri was widely known for apples and the delicious beverage that comes from them, but more than a century later, it’s time for a new wave.

“We’re the only cidery in central Missouri,” says Rein. “What we’re doing is a Columbia brand, through and through. I feel a personal obligation to make something that tastes wonderful and to not let down the public persona of what cider is. And that’s good for a lot of people – apple growers, farmers, businesspeople around the country and like-minded folks who want to try something new.”

604 Nebraska Ave., Columbia, Missouri, wavescider.com

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F&R Imports is spreading the gospel of French natural wines throughout Missouri.

Written by Natalie Torres Gallagher, with additional reporting by Kasey Carlson Photography by Judd Demaline

/ a u gu s t 2 02 1

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When I taste this wine, I taste summer fruits in France, a night with “ friends, a million things. If you can justify it, you’re right. ”

—John-Paul Fortney, F&R Imports

You’re inclined to believe everything Julie Fortney says.

“After the Paris attacks, we had 95 percent of our customers

him in Beaujolais several times, and he was great about

It could be the French accent, which lends an air of authority

for the next several months cancel within two days,” says

showing us around and even having us help get ready for

to the stories she shares as she reaches for bottles during

John-Paul. “We were doing something that was working

the 2015 harvest.”

a wine tasting on a balmy June evening in Kansas City. This

really well and then it wasn’t working at all.”

As for the concerted effort to include only natural wines in

Alsatian Riesling is from winemaker Domaine Mann – a lovely man and a friend of Julie and her husband, John-Paul Fortney,

So, they changed course. If the people weren’t coming to

their portfolio, the Fortneys say they are taking their cues

who stayed with the couple in Webster Groves, Missouri, in

them, why not bring the wine they loved to the people? After

from the French market. (Natural wine is somewhat hard

2019. She talks about the wines he produces as though they,

launching F&R Imports, John-Paul and Julie maintained dual

to define; there is no official consensus, but the key idea is

too, are her close friends, commenting on the quirks of their

residences in Paris and St. Louis, flying back and forth every

that it’s produced with minimal intervention and no chemical

characters. Next to her, John-Paul pours the 2019 Banzaï,

month to acquire more cases of wine. Together, they visit

additives.)

a Merlot, extending a long finger to point out the region it

natural wine fairs all over France, where they carve out time

came from – Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux, an appellation

to get to know the producers – and search for vintages that

“We’re going to see more and more producers working this

adjacent to Bordeaux – on a well-worn map of France.

fit their tenets. Each bottle of wine the Fortneys distribute

way,” says John-Paul. “A few years ago, in France alone, two

comes from small, environmentally conscious winemakers

to three percent of production was organic, and today it’s

The crowd around the small tasting table at Big Mood

who are practicing organic (and often biodynamic and

approximately 13 percent, which is a huge jump.”

Natural Wines in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District is a

natural) winemaking techniques, many of whom have had

healthy mix: Most are frequent Big Mood patrons and wine

little exposure in the U.S. – even though they enjoy a soaring

At Big Mood, John-Paul moves on to a bottle of L’Alezan Merci,

aficionados, some are hospitality industry professionals –

popularity in France.

a Pétillant Naturel (naturally sparkling wine) made from Syrah.

He talks warmly about the Rhône producers, Patricia and Rémi

mostly bartenders and servers. A few are already clients of F&R Wine Imports, the wine business that the Fortneys

Take Séléné. Sylvère Trichard is the man behind this

Bonneton, and how they have tripled their acreage over the

started in 2017.

biodynamic and organic domaine in Beaujolais, where his

past few years. When he tasted this wine with Julie for the first

Gamay wine goes through semi-carbonic maceration in

time, they marveled at how well it paired with any food they

With F&R Imports, the Fortneys introduce restaurants

concrete vats (that’s the technical way of saying he ferments

pulled out of their fridge. And then there’s a question from

and shops across Missouri – primarily in St. Louis, where

his wine without adding carbon dioxide to the fermenting

someone in the small group of tasters: “Do you know this wine

John-Paul was born and raised, as well as in Kansas City and

tank) and spends some time in neutral barrels before being

well enough to talk about the nose and the taste?”

Columbia – to the small-batch natural French wines that they

bottled – unrefined, unfiltered and without any added sulfur.

love. Theirs is no passing fancy: Paris-born Julie met John-

His wine is highly sought after in France, and the Fortneys

John-Paul hesitates. He can, of course, speak to the nose and

Paul two weeks after he moved to her hometown, bonding

count him among their close personal friends. They even

taste. But that’s not the most important part of this wine.

over their love of fine food and, of course, French wine. That

became his Paris rep for a short time in 2015, selling out the

was more than 13 years ago. In 2010, they started a tourism

1,300 bottles that he allotted for the city’s eager shops and

“The thing is, picking out fruit and flavors is based on

company and began offering culinary walking tours of Paris.

restaurants within three days.

experience. If you’ve never had a raspberry, you’re not going to taste raspberry,” he explains. “When I taste this wine, I taste

They steadily grew their business over five years, and just as things were really beginning to take off, the November 2015

“Our friendship with Sylvère is what really got us moving

summer fruits in France, a night with friends, a million things. If

Paris terrorist attacks happened.

toward becoming importers,” says John-Paul. “We visited

you can justify it, you’re right.” –N.G.

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Westport Cafe Nicolas Mermet loves a good story – especially one that involves wine. The Fortneys have plenty of stories, and that’s one of the top reasons, says Mermet, why F&R Imports works so well. Mermet loves being able to share the background and anecdotes of their wines with guests at Kansas City's Westport Cafe, where he is the catering director and co-owner. “Compared to big importers or distributors, they have a close relationship with the winemakers, so they introduce a wine and they know the person who made it, how it was made and the story behind the vineyard,” he says. “This is what people are looking for more and more now. When you have a wine that has a story, even if it’s a grape that no one has heard of before, it gets people interested in it.” And with natural wine, he says, there’s usually a wealth of information about how the wine was made, which is a big selling point. Another is a lower alcohol content: One of the added benefits of making wine with zero additives, such as extra sugar during fermentation, is that natural wine generally has a lower ABV than other wines. “Most of the natural wines are more fruit-forward in their expression, the alcohol level is not as high and I feel like it’s easier to drink,” says Mermet.

–N.G. westportcafeandbar.com

Haru Rosé “Haru is a rosé from Provence. Most rosés in Provence are light and have a light color, but the Haru rosé is made from different blends of reds; it has way more structure than any other rosé from Provence. That’s what I like about F&R Imports – the things that they carry are different from what you expect.”

–Nicolas Mermet, Westport Cafe

Union Loafers John-Paul and Julie connected with Union Loafers co-owner

In August 2020, Big Mood opened as Kansas City’s first

Sean Netzer in true Parisian fashion: They stopped in the St.

natural wine shop, featuring more than 120 bottles of natural

Louis bakery and café to buy baguettes. The very next day, Netzer was tasting wines with the pair and buying bottles almost BIG MOOD PHOTO BY ANNA PETROW

Big Mood Natural Wines wine from all over the world – many of which are imported through F&R. Richard Garcia and Jamie Zoeller, who own

immediately – later, they even drank together at a wine bar in

the Crossroads shop along with Liz Zoeller, are restaurant

Paris when Netzer and his wife were in town. In January 2020,

industry veterans and have witnessed the rising interest in

Union Loafers built out a wine cellar and beefed up its wine

natural wine over the last decade. “People have sort of been

list, featuring several F&R bottles. A few months later, when

skeptical of whether natural wine will stick around or if it’s

the restaurant evolved into a bottle shop during the pandemic,

a fad and a flash in the pan,” says Garcia. “But it’s definitely

Netzer says that those wines were the quickest to move, thanks in part to how selective John-Paul and Julie are. “I like that they have very deliberately chosen the wines in their portfolio,” he

here to stay. It’s another option outside of conventionally made wine. These wines are respectful to the planet and to us, and they’re generally easy to drink, and that has broad

says. “It also very much aligns with our philosophy at Union

appeal. There are natural wine shops opening up and down

Loafers of bringing in quality products and sourcing them

the Midwest. It’s a category that’s got an upward trajectory,

honestly and sustainably.” –K.C. unionloafers.com

and I don’t see it stopping.” –N.G. bigmoodnaturalwines.com

L’Alezan Metonymia Blanc “Patricia and Rémi Bonneton make some of the most delicious wines coming out of Ardèche in France’s Rhône region. We first fell in love with their Metonymia wine, an orange wine made from Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne – the three heavy-hitter white wine grapes from this region. This wine slays. It has the perfect balance of white floral notes, peaches and refreshing tannins.”

–Richard Garcia, Big Mood Natural Wines / a u gu s t 2 02 1

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Beet Box Beet Box is the first restaurant in Columbia, Missouri, to work with F&R Imports, thanks to a chance meeting at a collaboration with Balkan Treat Box in the St. Louis area. The company’s natural wines align with the restaurant’s ethos of responsible sourcing, which includes local beers alongside a menu of as many fresh, locally sourced ingredients as possible. The majority of the bottles Beet Box sells are sourced from F&R, ranging from funkier wines – such as one of beverage director Jordan Martin Holman’s favorites, the L’Alezan Merci 2019 Pét-Nat – to easy-sipping wines – such as the Haru Rosé 2019 from Domaine Milan – that are an accessible entry point for those new to lowintervention wines. –K.C. eatabeetbox.com

The Antler Room The Antler Room’s wine program has always emphasized natural wine, and co-owner Leslie Newsam-Goellner (who’s also the general manager and wine director) has always thought it made sense. “If we’re eating organically and clean and unprocessed, then why aren’t we drinking that way?” she asks. “I always bring the food perspective into it. You want to go to a farm-to-table restaurant because of that hyper-local menu. You should also follow that principle with what you’re drinking. A lot of wineries, especially smaller wineries in France and Europe, already use organic or biodynamic processes. For me, I like knowing that I’m drinking something that doesn’t have added chemicals.”

The Fortneys connected with Newsam-Goellner via Instagram just as COVID-19 restrictions were rolling out and scheduled a socially distanced tasting. Immediately, she says, she loved their approachability: “Most wine reps have a rolling bag, but they have a Coleman cooler, and they ordered food from us before the tasting and ate it outside on the sidewalk,” she recalls. “They’re just two young people growing a brand-new business during a pandemic, and there’s something that’s admirable and charming about that.” –N.G. theantlerroomkc.com

Tannin Wine Bar & Kitchen Little Fox Little Fox wine manager Chris Voll first met John-Paul and Julie while working at Bulrush, developing a personal relationship that went beyond distribution – the pair would come foraging with the team, and the more Voll got to know John-Paul and Julie, the more he got to know about natural wine.

Now, Voll aims to keep an inventory of 90 to 95 wines in-house, focusing primarily on “human scale” wines from small producers who are picking grapes by hand. On any given day, approximately eight to 10 of those wines come from F&R, including some by-the-glass options so that natural wine newbies can dip their toes in without a commitment. –K.C. littlefoxstl.com

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Barry Tunnell, general manager of Tannin Wine Bar & Kitchen in

Séléné Gisous Beaujolais Rosé “The winemaker, Sylvère Trichard, is very good

Kansas City, met the Fortneys just over a year ago for a socially distanced tasting on the patio at Tannin. “They’re passionate about their portfolio,” says Tunnell. “You get the sense that

friends with John-Paul and Julie. These are some really excellent, elegant but fun, easy and accessible wines coming from Beaujolais. He does a wonderful rosé that’s one of my favorite rosés every year. Those are really great wines to start the conversation about natural wine because they’re very accessible to a red wine-drinker or a rosé-drinker. They are recognizable and easy, but they’re also slightly challenging and unique, and then you can start the conversation about where natural wine started, what it is, why they’re doing it, and go from there.”

they’re sharing wines that are made by their friends or made

–Chris Voll, Little Fox

–N.G. tanninwinebar.com

by people they enjoy and appreciate. I’ve found that there’s a correspondence between quality people and quality wine, and I tend to enjoy wines that are made by people who I like.

Sometimes I meet the wine first.” He appreciates the company’s focus on natural wines but is more excited by the quality of the offerings. “They work with a community of young, like-minded winemakers who are making distinctive, unique wines,” he says.

“These wines are really expressive of where they come from, even when the grape varietals used to produce them and some of the wines themselves are unusual. For example, there are skinfermented wines from southern France, which is more common in Italy or Slovenia and other parts of Europe. It’s truly different.”

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