July 2018 Feast Magazine

Page 16

Tribe STreeT kiTchen KANSAS CITY. among the smattering of international

surprising

soft serve Ice cream doesn’t always have to be so, well, vanilla. Soft serve, which is creamier and less dense than traditional ice cream with a lower milk-fat content, reminds us of childhood summers and sugar cones. Local restaurants are giving soft-serve ice cream a grown-up twist with unexpected savory and sweet flavors to keep you cool this summer. Written by Lauren Smith

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PhotograPhy by amy Schromm

eats at Tribe Street Kitchen in Kansas city’s river market neighborhood is soft-serve ice cream. inspired by the flavors of the global street foods tribe serves, executive chef Lance gipson creates new flavors based on necessity, meaning there’s always something new to try. “typically, we do a catch-all of the extra produce and food we have in stock,” he says. “if we do something special for the menu, or have extra fruit from the day, we’ll come up with a new flavor using that. We also use things from the bar: if we have extra mojito ingredients, we’ll make a mojito soft serve.” gipson also serves the cool treat in a freshly pressed waffle bowl. “yesterday we had peach-ginger, tomorrow we’ll do a dulce de leche and next week we’ll have starfruit,” he says. 316 Delaware St., Kansas City, Missouri, tribekc.com

Luckyberry LAWRENCE, KS. at Luckyberry in Lawrence, Kansas, co-owner Shantel grace puts in the extra effort to create soft-serve ice creams using local, all-natural and seasonal ingredients. “it’s a challenge because the soft-serve machines are really meant for pre-packaged ice cream mixes with gums and binders,” she says. “When you’re working with all-natural ingredients, you have to ensure that your sugar and fat ratios are correct and that there’s not too much water in your ingredients, etc. everything has to be scientifically accurate.” the team at Luckyberry found that hildebrand Farms milk from Junction city, Kansas, and half Day creamery yogurt from topeka works best. grace is also committed to providing a number of non-dairy choices as well. “We’ve done some that are tofu-based, like our toasted-sesame ice cream; some of my favorites are ones where we use our cold-pressed juices. We use nuts, like raw almonds for the fat, and coconut wheat.” grace likes to keep her ice creams simple and sticks to five ingredients or less; past flavors include activated charcoal and locally grown beet and rhubarb. this summer, look for blackberry-lavender-sage, sweet corn, ginger-peach, beet and strawberry-rhubarb from pastry chef alison berger.

845 Massachusetts St., Lawrence, Kansas, luckyberry.com Adzuki bean-daifuku and smoked chile-chocolate

nudo houSe CREvE CoEuR, mo. although Nudo House in creve coeur is known for its impeccable ramen, executive chef marie-anne Velasco creates silky ice cream in flavors with an asian twist. “i like to do tropical or asian flavors that you would see on the streets of tokyo, thailand or the Philippines,” she says. “that’s why you’ll find ube [purple sweet potato], pandan [a tropical plant often used in rice pudding] and mango. i like to use fruits that i love to eat when i’m in asia, [and] different flavors that people aren’t used to [here] like soursop [a creamy tropical fruit], thai iced tea and Vietnamese coffee.” this summer, look for new soft serve options including hibiscus, tea blends and caffeinated ice creams. Velasco likes to have at least one vegan or vegetarian ice cream on the menu for her loyal lactose-intolerant customers, as well. “When we were traveling to research ramen, there would always be a frozen yogurt [place] next to the shop,” she explains. “the cool, sweet ice cream is the perfect complement to hot, salty broth.”

11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, Missouri, nudohousestl.com

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