SUB: inFauquier Spring 2023

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FACES & PLACES LIFE & STYLE FARE & FLAIR

19 Discover the cooling power of a living, breathing tree (really, they literally breathe)

20 Cold frames are hot this shoulder season. Learn how to pamper your plants.

21 Think scuba isn’t possible in land-locked Fauquier? Think again.

5 County Tidbits • 30 The Last Word

Welcome

Too cool for school

I distinctly remember my first measure of “coolness,” admiring the name the most popular girl in my third grade class gave her dog.

For a long time, “Peaches” was the high watermark.

Eventually that was supplanted by the cool choices of music of the high school

When you try to pin it down, what we think of as cool is abstract, subjective, impalpable.

23 Q and A with Kinloch Farm in The Plains

25 Meet Denim and Pearls chef Woody Isaac

25 Cheers to the start of al fresco sipping season

26 Skyline Sweets in Marshall spins a story with every handmade candy

27 Ice wine is a unique Chateau O’Brien twist on local apples

boys and, later, the fashion selections of the sorority sisters I looked up to at the time in college.

The theme of this spring issue of inFauquier brought it all back to fore as the writing and photo team considered “the coolness factor” from every angle.

www.fauquier.com

But, by any measure, Fauquier’s full of it. Follow as we trace the notion of cool, from the purr of V2 four-stroke on Mary Liles’ 2018 Harley Road Glide as she strikes out on another road-trip adventure from her Bealeton home, to the perfectly silky, amber batch of homemade caramel Josh Merrell stirs up for an order of chocolate turtles for his Skyline Sweets. Explore these stories and more as we dig into the identifiable traits of this truly intangible construct – the coolness factor.

Published bi-annually by Piedmont Media LLC.

Publisher: Catherine M. Nelson, cnelson@fauquier.com

Editor: Betsy Burke Parker, betsyburkeparker@gmail.com

Managing editor: Jill Palermo, jpalermo@fauquier.com

Consultants:

Anthony Haugan, ahaugan@fauquier.com

Nancy Keyser, nkeyser@fauquier.com

On the cover Photographer Randy Litzinger was intrigued by the spring inFauquier cover assignment. “We had the idea that a motorcycle-riding lady would absolutely depict the essence of ‘cool’ in the county,” Randy says. “I wanted to get shots of her on an angle from behind while riding on a Fauquier country road.

“When I photographed Beth Liles in Midland, I tried to get as low as I could to emphasize she was riding out in the countryside, not on a highway.

“I noticed her license plate on her bike is ‘EAVL.’ I assumed it had to be a reference to famous motorcycle daredevil Evel Knievel, who I once watched trying to motorcycle jump over a huge canyon on TV as a young boy.

“Beth laughed and pointed out that no, EAVL is actually just her four initials.

“But I thought it fit the image.”

Jeanne Cobert, jcobert@fauquier.com

Contributors:

Betsy Burke Parker

Alissa Jones

Mary Ann Dancisin

John Daum

John Toler

Alexandra Greeley

Janie Ledyard

Sally Semple

Randy Litzinger

David Charvonia

Designers:

Vincent Sales

Laurene Craig

Spring 2023 3 Table of Contents
the
of refrigeration
from the
outlet
9 Historic ice houses reveal
story
11 Putting a vinyl spin on a music blast
past 13 Hemp sales skyrocket at local Franny’s
15 Gear up (and gear down) with motorcycle rider Beth Liles
11 21 26
Address 53 S. 3rd St., Suite 100 Warrenton, VA
540-347-4222
20186 Phone:
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We may not be No. 1, but we’re in the running

Warrenton was ranked highly in a recent survey of “best small towns” in America, according to the Family Destinations Guide that provides kid-friendly vacation ideas.

The publication listed the top 150 towns across the nation “they’d love to spend time in this year.”

Warrenton came in at No. 82.

Elsewhere in the commonwealth, Chincoteague landed at No. 7, and Cape Charles was listed 37th.

“Visiting small towns has become increasingly popular as travelers seek authentic and personalized experiences that provide a break from the fastpaced, commercialized world,” Rose Ackermann of familydestinationsguide.com said in a

First Fridays return to town

A unique opportunity to dance to live music in the middle of Main Street, First Fridays offer the opportunity this year beginning in May.

Live music, drink and activities for the whole family will be back in town this year when Warrenton’s three-decade-long tradition, First Fridays start on May 5.

First Friday joins forces with the Music on Main summer concert series this summer.

Weekends May through October, there will be live music, food trucks, kids’ activities, beer and wine gardens and other local vendors.

release. “These hidden gems offer a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in the local culture, connect with friendly communities and escape the stress of everyday life.”

Holualoa on Hawaii’s Big Island took the top spot. Rounding out the top three were Ely, Nevada, and Anna Maria Island in Florida.

The events are hosted by Allegro and Warrenton’s Puffenbarger Insurance. There is no admission charge.

Allegro is a performing arts school located on Main Street in Old Town. First Friday also partnered with iHeart Media’s D.C. radio station this year to help promote the event across the region.

Kid-centric activities include face painting, snow cones and multi-player games. Among the artists performing this summer will be Mike Parker, the 27-year-old country singer from Warrenton who made it through to the final seven on “American Idol” last year.

Allegro and Puffenbarger will host a charity bowling tournament at Galaxy Bowling on April 18.

For details, email lachelle@allegrocsa.org.

Solar energy is hot this season

Two businesses in Fauquier received grants from the U.S. Department of Agriculture for solar energy projects.

Rural Energy for America selected Skyfiber Ranch and Fun-tastic Farming for the innovative program.

REA was designed to help farmers, agricultural producers and rural entrepreneurs’ lower energy costs and reduce greenhouse gas emissions. The Fauquier projects, along with 10 others in Virginia, collectively received more than $810,000 in funding for photovoltaic arrays that will lower energy costs for these businesses. This came out of a total pot of $285 million meant for similar projects nationwide.

Skyfiber Ranch, an alpaca farm in Orlean, is installing a 17.28-kilowatt roof-mounted photovoltaic system. This system will consist of 48 360watt solar modules and 18 inverters. An estimated 24,006-kilowatt hours per year of solar generation will go towards its commercial operations covering more than half their power usage.

Fun-Tastic Farming in Gainesville installed a 18.36-kilowatt roof-mounted photovoltaic system, producing more than 26,000 kilowatt hours a year equaling more than 115% of what the 131-acre farm uses.

Bluebells, beavers, birds and biodiversity – Yeah, they’ve

The Piedmont Environmental Council hosts its 20th annual bluebell walk Sunday, April 16 at Bonny Brook Farm in Catlett. The family-friendly event, sponsored by PEC’s Julian Scheer Fauquier Land Conservation Fund, is a chance to walk in a private conserved property along a Cedar Run, with drifts of hundreds of native bluebells. Experts will lead the walk and speak on topics including beavers, native meadow and riparian habitats for birds, butterflies, and other critters, invasive species removal and more.

You may have worried about germs when you were a kid, but turns out dog kisses are good for you.

When your dog drags his cold, wet tongue across your face, man’s best friend might be doing more than just showing his loyalty.

He might be doing you a favor.

Researchers at the University of Arizona and the University of California at San Diego released a months-long study confirming that dog slobber provides more human health benefits that the easily identifiable fuzz therapy aspect.

Researchers think “infusion” with dog germs actually triggers antibodies to provide relief from everything from asthma to reduction in allergic inflammation.

“We essentially want to (show that) a dog has a probiotic effect,” said Kim Kelly, one of the study leaders, in a press release. Kelly is program coordinator for the Human-Animal Interaction Research Initiative at UA.

Dr. Charles Raison, a professor of psychiatry at UA, said dog spit helps build healthy bacteria colonies in the human owner.

“We’re not really individuals; we’re sort of like communities [with bacteria],” Raison told a television news station. “These bacteria can powerfully impact our [immune health.]”

Raison said allergy and immunology researchers have been searching for why certain immune diseases, including allergies and asthma, have increased through the last century in the Western world. One theory has been that human microbiomes have been depleted by less exposure to certain harmless bacteria.

Dog germs, Raison said, help restore that balance.

More is at cals.arizona.edu.

Spring 2023 5 County Tidbits
inFAUQUIER COUNTY TIDBITS
got that
That cold dog tongue on your face? Science says it’s good for you.

Taking the ice cream cruise – the essence of cool

Fauquier’s treat-trail is a long, and winding road (thank goodness)

Haagen Dazs is heavenly. Breyers is beautiful.

But when you really want to enjoy the complete ice cream experience, you need to head to your favorite ice cream stand. The county has several chain ice cream parlors, and most country markets sell ice cream, but Fauquier has some traditional offerings. This season, plan your route carefully to find these easy to access and flavorful treats.

That’s really cold.

(And we like it that way.)

According to 2022 statistics, Americans consume roughly 1.6 billion gallons of ice cream each year. That’s 23 pounds of ice cream per capita.

Are you doing your part?

Ice cream is one of mankind’s oldest sweet treats: Alexander the Great (356 to 352 B.C.) is the first person widely credited with tasting snow sweetened with honey and nectar.

Centuries later, sweetened scoops of snow became “cream ice,” with the first known commercial ice cream recipe attributed to a Sicilian chef in the 1880s.

Moo Thru

Moo Thru is southern Fauquier’s version of an old-fashioned ice cream shop, with a locavore twist. Owners Ken and Pam Smith make their own ice cream on the second floor of the store, using milk from their own and other Fauquier dairy farms. They say the most popular flavors remain Holstein, Mounds, strawberry cheesecake and carrot cake.

Everything that can be homemade, is homemade. Waffle cones are made in house; shakes are hand-dipped and hand-spun. Sourdough bread for sandwiches is homemade. The young people who are scooping ice cream and taking orders are familiar faces from the local high schools. When you order your ice cream, you can also grab a farm-fresh gallon of milk to take home with you.

Moo Thru has inside and outside seating to linger over ice cream or world-famous grilled cheese sandwiches.

Moo Thru

11402 James Madison Highway, Remington 540-439-6455

facebook.com/moothru

Effee’s Frozen Favorites

5051 Lee Highway, New Baltimore 540-347-2220 effees.com

Scruffy’s Ice Cream Parlor

Scruffy’s in Middleburg, like the town itself, is quaint and altogether old-fashioned. Beyond the cotton candy ice cream and cappuccino chocolate, there is more to the shop than meets the eye. Along with your cone, you can have a dollop of compassion, courtesy of Middleburg Humane Foundation founder and president, Hilleary Bogley. Featuring prominently in the shop is a sign that says, “In 1988, Scruffy’s opened to raise funds to open an animal shelter.”

For the first six years, all money from Scruffy’s paid for spays and neuters and the care of “Scruffy’s Strays;” the Middleburg Humane Foundation incorporated in 1994.

One of the most popular menu specialities is the unique Banana Mocha Cooler, with a shot of espresso, a banana and coffee ice cream.

Scruffy’s Ice Cream Parlor

6 West Washington St., Middleburg 540-687-3766

facebook.com/pages/scruffys-icecream-parlor

Carousel Frozen Treats

346 Waterloo St., Warrenton 540-351-0004

carouselfrozentreats.com

6 Spring 2023 County Tidbits inFAUQUIER COUNTY TIDBITS
PHOTO BY VINCENT SALES Moo Thru is a summer tradition around Fauquier.
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Life & Style

INSIDE THIS SECTION:

• CBD growing in popularity, and rightly so, say experts

• Turning the turntable on vinyl records

The evolution of cool

You reach into the fridge for a cold one, but have you ever considered how it happened?

The story of ice is a chilling tale (but just imagine if it hadn’t come to be)!

Before there was refrigeration, there were icehouses, a method of preserving food going back hundreds of years. Basically, it involved harvesting blocks of ice cut from frozen ponds and lakes during the winter months and storing them in underground structures.

The ice was packed in hay, straw or sawdust, and cool temperatures maintained with vents and drains. Icehouse de-

signs ranged from a simple hole in the ground with a door to a wooden or stone structure built over a finished underground vault.

In the Fauquier countryside, large homes and estates often had their own icehouses. One example would be Greenmont near The Plains, owned by Henry Rust. He notes that his icehouse dates back to the 1870s, and is the oldest surviving structure on the property.

Making ice was serious business at Greenmont. Ice ponds were built nearby, and during the winter, blocks of ice were cut and

moved by trolley into the pit of the icehouse. Farm records show that the last time workers were paid to cut ice at the farm was in 1926.

In most cases, icehouses exist only in historical records. Remains of an icehouse can be found at Selby, Charlie Mackall’s home near The Plains. He also remembers as a child jumping down into the straw and enjoying the coolness in the icehouse at Greenwich.

Howard Smith III of Broad Run points to a mound on his property, Cedar Hill, where an icehouse once stood. Traces of an icehouse can be found at Mal-

colm Matheson’s The Tannery, at Halfway.

Published in 2003, “A Pride of Place: Rural Residences of Fauquier County, Virginia” mentions icehouses on private property at Rosehill south of Paris, Cloverland at Rectortown and Magbie Hill near Warrenton.

Replacing the icebox

It was a giant step forward for making refrigeration more widely available: Early home “iceboxes” held a block of ice in the upper section, with the cold flowing down onto the food stored below. Due to

See COOL, page 10

Spring 2023 9 Life & Style
The large Kelvinator refrigeration unit at Hopefield was installed in the pantry when the house was built in the 1920s. An early refrigerator, it was cooled by machinery in the basement below. Warrenton Electric Light and Ice Company on Franklin Street provided electric service and blocks of ice for resale. COURTESY OF THE WARRENTON ANTIQUARIAN SOCIETY Nothing but the foundation remains of this enclosed icehouse at Weston.

Sip & Shop Sip & Shop

a f t e d

tinue for a few years as a wholesale operation providing blocks of ice to enterprising peddlers working door-todoor. But that would end as home refrigeration units became available.

Home refrigerators

M o c k t a i L S

M o c k t a i L S

S I P & S T A Y C O O L S I P & S T A Y C O O L S I P & S A Y C O O L

H a n g o u t i n t h e c o o l s h a d e o f o u r t a s t i n g r o o m g r o u n d s .

S i p o n a c h i l l e d g l a s s o f M a g n o l i a w i n e o r t r y o u r s i g n a t u r e

B l u s h S a n g r i a . C h e c k o u r F a c e b o o k o r w e b s i t e f o r a l l t h e c o o l h a p p e n i n g s i n c l u d i n g l i v e m u s i c a n d f o o d t r u c k s .

quickly began planning for the future. He first expanded electrical service in and around Warrenton and ran lines to Remington, The Plains and Marshall. He later added plants in Culpeper and Orange.

Production of ice at the Warrenton plant would con-

The Kelvinator Co. was among the early innovators, selling refrigeration systems with food storage in an insulated cabinet in the kitchen, and the large compressor, condenser, coils and piping located in the basement below. Still, it wasn’t a practical solution for most homes.

By the mid-1920s, General Electric came out with a new refrigerator called a “Monitor Top.” It had its condenser and coils on the top of the unit and improved insulation in the Warrenton veterinarian Dr. Nancy Poehlman had a Monitor Top in her Warrenton exam room of her office on Shirley Avenue for many years.

The next major advance in refrigeration was in 1930, with the development of synthetic refrigerants, including Dupont Freon (R-12). Safer and more efficient than other refrigerant gases, freon was used until 1987, when use of chlorofluorocarbons was curtailed due to the damage it was causing to the ozone layer.

Since then, other refrigerants have been developed – and mandated – including R410A, and most recently, R-454B, which now must be used in all refrigerators manufactured in the U.S.

Life & Style
T i n c t u r e s E d i b l e s S a l v e s N O V A @ f r a n n y s f a r m a c y N O V A 7 1 2 8 F a r m S t . R d . W a r r e n t o n P r e m i u m C B D & H e m p B a t h & B e a u t y P e t p r o d u c t s D e l t a 9 t And more!! J o i n u s J o i n u s E v e r y F r i d a y 4 - 7 p m E v e r y F r i d a y 4 - 7 p m H a n d C r a f t e d H a n d C r
The General Electric ‘Monitor Top’ was America’s first practical home
W W W . M A G N O L I A V I N E Y A R D S . C O M | 2 0 0 V I E W T O W N R D , A M I S S V I L L E
A T M A G N O L I A V I N E Y A R D S A T M A G N O L I A V I N E Y A R D S A T A N O L A V N E A R D S E S C A P E T H E M A D N E S S E S C A P E T H E M A D N E S S S C E T S

A new era for classic vinyl

You may think record players were done decades ago. Think again.

Vinyl records are making a strong comeback, with LP lovers buying some 43 million new records in 2022. It marked the 17th straight year of growth, and the second year in which LP sales exceeded those of CDs.

At last count, there are around 20 mainstream manufacturers of turntables. Many more “specialist” companies are catering to audiophiles with machines costing up to $100,000 and more.

Why this resurgence of interest in a technology that was introduced in the 1940s?

First of all, many that love recorded music maintain that tunes on vinyl actually sound different – better. In short, LPs are cool.

There’s something retro and magical about the ritual of appreciating the cover art.

Get in the groove

Add to it the delicious moment when the stylus touches down on the lead-in groove, and the music starts to happen.

Secondly, LPs are durable.

My own collection includes thousands of records made in the 1940s and 1950s that are still in pristine condition and play perfectly. One small scratch on a CD renders it unreadable. The longevity of digital downloads is still unknown.

Newcomers to vinyl are often shocked by the sound of a great LP played on a high-quality system. Missing in action are the supposed ticks, pops and scratches criticized by the digital crowd. Vinyl puts you, almost literally, in the physical presence of the artist in amazing detail against a background of velvety silence.

See VINYL, page 12

While there are no dedicated record stores in Fauquier, antique and thrift stores are worth visiting periodically.

Record condition is often an issue in these venues, but pleasant surprises are possible. I was recently looking through a stash of records at the Warrenton Salvation Army store when I came across an LP titled “Miss Calypso.” Further investigation revealed that the sultry woman featured on the cover was identified as Maya Angelou, the writer in her early career as a singer-dancer-songwriter.

It turned out to be a truly wonderful record, luckily in good shape. Her later career in fiction was anticipated in the wildly inventive biography in the liner notes. The cost? One dollar.

The Strasburg Emporium, McKay’s Used Books in Manassas and the Purcellville Bazaar have selections of good-condition material to investigate, as does the CD Cellar in Falls Church. Despite the name, this store also has a vast selection of new and used vinyl in all genres. They recently opened a new room devoted entirely to jazz and classical LPs and have thousands of records priced from one to three dollars.

Spring 2023 11 Life & Style
PHOTO BY VINCENT SALES Music recorded on vinyl sounds different, and better, say experts in the field, richer, more tonally pleasing and like a live performance.
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Without getting too technical, a record groove contains an exact physical representation—an “analog”—of the sound waves generated by the musicians. A cartridge tracing the groove can accurately transform its tiny vibrations into a continuous electrical signal. Digital audio, on the other hand, chops up the original signal into thousands of tiny bits of information, each one assigned a discrete number, then reassembles them into something the producer hopes will recreate the original sound. Admittedly, newer high-resolution technologies are a vast improvement over early-generation CDs but with all the manipulation and filtering necessary to the process, something vital is inevitably lost.

Let the hunt begin

To a true vinyl lover, this resurgence of LPs to the new music market is heartening, but the real excitement is in the hunt for vintage records. Whether you’re into classic rock, blues, country, jazz or classical, there is a lot to discover and re-discover out there.

The long-playing record was introduced in the late 1940s by Columbia and reigned supreme as a music medium into the 1990s. That half-century was truly a Golden Age for music, and while a good chunk of it has been reissued in various

formats, none can compare with the coolness factor and sound quality of a good original pressing.

Additionally, many original master tapes are either lost, destroyed or have deteriorated, making reissues problematic or impossible.

Set your stage

Even if you still have that venerable old warhorse from years past, it is probably not operating up to snuff. If you’re on a tight budget, consider an affordable unit from a company like Audio-Technica or Stanton. You can thank the worldwide DJ market for keeping

these machines in production. If you don’t have a dedicated stereo system, some of these units use Bluetooth and can play through your computer speakers.

An additional benefit, these machines come with cartridges already mounted and are ready to play with minimal setup required. You may also need a separate preamplifier to boost the tiny signal from the cartridge unless your amplifier has one built in.

If you want to aim a bit higher, look for turntables designed with more attention to sound quality. Some brands to investigate are Rega, Pro-Ject and Music Hall. Their entry-level models are not much more expensive but do require a bit more expertise to set up properly. Cartridges from companies like Ortofon, Audio-Technica and Grado work well with them.

If you’re not comfortable with mounting and aligning cartridges, get a dealer or a savvy friend to help.

One issue with vintage records is that over the years they have a tendency to attract a lot of dust and debris. If you really want to get the best out of your records, a cleaning machine is a must. The more affordable ones use specialized cleaning fluid and vacuum suction to suck the gunk out of your grooves. Check out Nitty-Gritty and VPI online for more information.

12 Spring 2023 Life & Style
VINYL, from page 11

New hemp regs may be coming, but Franny’s franchise owner says business is booming

Franny’s Farmacy is located in Vint Hill east of Warrenton. Open a little over a year, the business is owned by Fauquier native Robin Mason.

Founded by Franny Tacy in Asheville, North Carolina four years ago, the Franny’s franchise has grown to a dozen locations across the south.

Franny’s is marketed as a “seed to shelf” enterprise, because “we know where all our products come from,” explains Mason. The hemp in the store’s products is grown organically in North Carolina.

CBD is one of many cannabinoids in hemp, and Mason says it’s behind the healing power of the products. She says her customers use a variety of hemp products to calm inflammation, reduce pain, stress and anxiety and promote healthy sleep.

The store provides premium local and regional CBD and hemp products ranging from tinctures, gummies, chocolates, honeys, teas, bath and beauty, healing salves, CBD for pets and a full-service “Bud Bar”.

Franny’s also sells Scents of Love candles, all-natural pet treats from Love Bites and organic tallow from Earthside Organics.

Friday afternoons, Franny’s hosts Sip and Shop featuring hand-crafted mocktails, with monthly events and workshops led by local owners of women-owned businesses.

“This plant has so many benefits,” Black says of hemp sales. “From insomnia, to chronic pain, anxiety, veterans with PTSD, depression, ADHD – the list goes on and on.”

Despite proposed changes to Virginia code that may change hemp and CBD legal levels, Black is optimistic for Franny’s future. “We’ll continue to provide premium health and wellness products to our customers and will adjust as necessary if needed. Being a pioneer in the ever-changing landscape of the hemp and cannabis industry requires being able to be strong and nimble. I encourage anyone that benefits from CBD products to reach out to their state and local representatives.”

frannysfarmacy.com

Spring 2023 13 Life & Style
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Live to ride. Ride to live.

Beth Liles calculates that she rides 10,000 miles a year on her 2018 Harley on the roads of Fauquier County alone.

Double it when you add out of county, out of state – sometimes out of country – miles she explores with motorcycle-riding girlfriends or with her significant other, “Ontime,” as he’s known in motorcycle circles.

“He shares my passion for motorcycles equally,” Lyles says of her boyfriend since 2013.

This is no small measure.

Liles attributes her lifelong ardor for motorcycles – the machines themselves, the adventures they allow and the inter-

esting cast of characters they attract – to many sources, but one stands out: Her uncle, Heath Williams, tops the list for igniting her interest.

Williams served active duty in the military and later lived with his widowed mother in the farm country outside Charlotte, North Carolina.

“My mom took me there for a visit every year,” Liles recalls her early introduction to the biker life. “My most vivid and lasting memories are of my Uncle Heath’s Harleys.

“I know I was a young pain in my uncle’s behind when begging for rides, but he only had himself to blame, because that first ride (started) my obsession.”

Liles was born in Fairfax in 1962, where she lived with her parents and two sisters until she graduated from high school in 1980.

Liles studied at Northern Virginia Community College, then served as court clerk and deputy court clerk of Fairfax County 1980 to 1987, deputy sheriff and master deputy sheriff in Fairfax 1987 to 2015.

Liles received a Bachelor of Science in management after retiring from the sheriff’s office. “I’m only semi-retired, however,” Liles maintains: she’s been a realtor with Century 21 New Millennium since 2013.

See LILES, page 16

Spring 2023 15 Life & Style
PHOTOS BY RANDY LITZINGER
Get your motor running, head out on that highway: With Beth Liles it’s more than a song lyric - it’s a way of life.
Bealeton rider Beth Liles says the roads of Fauquier County are always at the beginning of every one of her motorcycle adventures.

She moved to Fauquier in 2000, to her current home in Bealeton in 2014. She shares three sprawling acres with her golden-doodle, Abby, two cats, 10 chickens and Ruby, a Congo African Gray parrot. Liles calls Ruby the queen of the house. Her adult son and family, including Liles’ two young granddaughters, are what Liles calls “a day’s road trip” away in Florida.

When she was younger, Liles recalls never believing she could afford her own motorcycle. “My father made it clear he would not pay for my college, so how was I to advance in life with a child to raise?” She remembers a pivotal choice she made some 35 years ago that led directly to her biker lifestyle today.

After seven years as a county clerk, Deputy Sheriff Bill Rodosovich encouraged her to apply to work for the sheriff’s office. It included, Liles says, an increase in salary, full health benefits and retirement. “It was the best decision I could have made for me and my son.” She remembers everything about her life changing almost in an instant, including a new, abiding self-confidence that led directly to her first motorcycle.

In 1996, she bought her first, and only, Honda, a 750. Since, she’s been strictly a Harley-Davidson owner and rider. She owned a 1997 Sportster, a 1986 Softail Custom, 1999 Road King, 2001 Ultra Glide, 2003 100th anniversary Ultra Glide, 2010

Head to toe with the easy riders

Biker life is a leisurely ride and minimalistic these days for Liles, or EAVL as she’s known in biker circles. (It’s the initials of her full name, pronounced – ironically – “evil.”

No matchy-matchy head-to-toe leather cloaking for her: Liles says her favorite riding ensemble involves comfort. She typically wears jeans, a t-shirt, hoodie and a leather jacket. She adds leather chaps, more layers and gloves when it is cold.

Due to two fusion surgeries from having degenerative disc disease, she says she wears the smallest, lightest helmet she can to spare undue stress on the hardware holding her neck together, says Liles.

Tucked in her side bags, Liles explains, are raingear, leathers, bungee cords, tool bag, sunscreen and “the shrunken heads of my enemies.”

She laughs. You assume she is kidding.

When Liles hits the road, her “music is eclectic, some days its southern rock or country, classic rock, reggae, old Motown or metal, it all depends on my mood.”

Having a cruiser for her primary ride these days, Liles can actually tow a little trailer with luggage. She once thought about buying a camper trailer, but she thinks hotels make more sense, from a comfort standpoint.

Softail Deluxe and 2010 Street Glide. Her current ride, and her current obsession, is a 2018 Road Glide Special.

When she was new to riding, Liles joined the Women in the Wind club and a local riding group, the Road Wenches.

“I have plenty of women friends that I frequently ride with (these days,) but a club is not my thing anymore,” Liles says, adding that she often rides with her boyfriend and his club, The Tradesmen. “For obvious reasons, I’m not an actual member,” she says with a chuckle. Where, when, why

Liles has biked through all but eight states in the continental U.S., and she’s ridden to most of best-known rallies in the nation: Laconia in New Hampshire, Sturgis in South Dakota, Myrtle Beach in South Carolina, Daytona in Florida and Ocean City in Maryland.

She’s ridden to Springfield, Missouri to attend a biker funeral, taken a day trip to Cave City, Kentucky with a few girlfriends and cruised to Indiana for a poker run to support a wounded warrior who needed his home modified to accommodate a new wheelchair.

She’s ridden to upstate New York just to have lunch, and recently rode to California and back with a female friend.

“I’m still more comfortable on my bike than on my feet,” jokes Liles. “The only time I’ve ever been scared on a motorcycle was during my police motor school class, but that was only in the beginning, and it was more nerves than anything.” While an instructor at the Criminal Justice Academy, Liles took their well-regarded and extensive safety program, something she attributes to her confidence on the road.

On one memorable trip, she got to put her training to use. While visiting Custer

National Park, Liles found herself surrounded by buffalo, “There was a bull ahead in the middle of the narrow road, snorting, pawing the ground and staring right at me,” Liles recalls. “I thought he was going to charge to protect the mother and calf off in the grass to my right.”

She, literally, had nowhere for escape.

Liles swiftly assessed how to minimize his perception of her as a threat, not directly from the training manual but part of the process of thinking on your feet she’d learned in class and on the force.

“I shut down my engine and sat perfectly still until mom and calf joined him and moved off the road. Then I fired it up and throttled out,” she says.

Liles says while her memories are plentiful, what’s best are the people she shares the journeys with and those she meets along the way.

On the California trip, she and her friend met an old-timer motorcycle rider who approached them at a gas station. “This little elderly man started talking to us about our motorcycles and the trip we were on, and then he went to his car, pulled out a box and asked if we would mind looking at some of the photographs from when he used to ride motorcycles,” Liles says his face beamed with joy sharing his pictures from a Sturgis motorcycle rally he’d attended and motorcycles that he’d owned.

She’s often asked how to get involved in the motorcycle lifestyle, Liles says. Her advice is to team up with an experienced rider. The Virginia DMV website lists approved motorcycle training courses, many of which actually supply newbies with a motorcycle to use in addition to training and practice.

“Take the course,” Liles says, and get in on a pastime that becomes a lifestyle, one that can remain relevant your whole life.”

16 Spring 2023 Life & Style
LILES, from page 15
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Faces & Places

INSIDE THIS SECTION:

• Dive right into adventure with Warrenton-based Blu Water Scuba

• Stretch out the growing season with the ancient concept of cold frames

The cooling power of trees

It’s not only shade taking down the temps –it’s a type of respiration called transpiration

Summer’s coming, and trees will become the coolest customers of the season. Sure, shade from deciduous leaves helps keep us cool, but in reality, most of a tree’s cooling power isn’t about casting shadows at all.

There’s a lot of science behind what makes it cooler under a tree.

Transpiration

Shade provides relief by blocking heat, but transpiration is a bigger part of it since the action of a tree “breathing” actually cools the air much as an air conditioner in a house.

• Water taken in by a tree’s roots moves up through the trunk and evaporates into the air from tiny openings in the leaves. This process is called transpiration.

• Trees lose a lot of water when they transpire. A mature tree may send dozens, even a hundred, of gallons per day of water into the air in the form of water vapor. This is the reason Virginia has extra thick humidity in late spring and summer –it’s coming from the atmosphere as well as the earth.

• Evaporation cools the leaf and the air around the leaf, because converting water to a vapor consumes heat energy from the air. This is what makes a slight breeze

They may be shady characters, but there’s real science behind relief from heat underneath a tree. It can be 14 degrees cooler due to transpiration.

under a tree or in a forest, even if there is no “wind.”

• Transpiration cools the air by as much as 14 degrees. Rates of transpiration vary by plant species, soil and weather conditions. Shade

• Intercepting short wave radiation from the sun, creating shade, is the primary way trees cool the environment. Dense tree canopies

reduce short-wave radiation by 60% to 90%.

• Tree shade reduces the heating of building surfaces and can reflect heat back into the atmosphere. Shade can reduce asphalt surface temperatures by as much as 35 degrees.

Indirect cooling

• Tree shade reduces air conditioning use and the resulting waste heat from

Can you see the forest for the trees?

From a single shade tree planted on a town square to thousands of acres of public parkland, Fauquier has lots of spots to breathe with (and under) the arbor.

• Rady Park – Warrenton

• Sky Meadows State Park –Paris

• The Appalachian Trail bisects Fauquier – Markham to Paris

• Whitney State Forest –Warrenton

• Northern Fauquier Community Park – Marshall

• Crockett Park – Midland

• Riverside Preserve – Orlean

• Monroe Park – Goldvein

• Walker Park – Warrenton

• Upperville Park – Upperville

• John Marshall birthplace park – Midland

• Warrenton Branch Greenway – Warrenton

• Academy Hill Park –Warrenton

• Vint Hill Farms Park –Warrenton

• Leeds Ruritan Park – Hume

• Thompson Wildlife Management Area –Markham

• Weston Wildlife Management Area – Casanova

• Warrenton dog park –Warrenton

• WARF – Warrenton

HVAC units.

• Clouds form more frequently over large, forested areas, providing even more cooling.

• Trees absorb carbon dioxide and, in turn, respire oxygen.

Spring 2023 19 Faces & Places

Hot topic: Cold frames

Want to feed your baby veggie upstarts? Give them what they crave – a warm embrace in cool weather

Temperatures may plunge in late spring, but no fear here. The magic, and science, of cold frames transform Virginia’s growing zone 6 into almost tropical splendor.

Adding cold frames was a game-changer.

Not surprising for a vegetable and nursery-stock company, Meadows Farms started small, growing to regional prominence over more than 60 years.

Selling produce door to door out of a truck for William Meadows, also known as the Farmer, and his wife, Betty, sprouted roadside stands around northern Virginia starting in 1960. From the seedling of an idea, Meadows has blossomed into 17 locations across Virginia, West Virginia and Maryland.

Three generations are represented in the family business now with William’s son, Jay Meadows, as president and owner and William’s nephew, Bobby Lewis, as vice president for both Meadows Farms and The Great Big Greenhouse and Nursery.

Meadows has become the go-to for plants in the area, the largest supplier for perennials, annuals, outdoor and indoor plants, shrubs and trees, including a wide – and growing – selection of native plants.

Cold frame – what is it?

Part of the success of Meadows comes from putting the science of horticulture to work for them, says Lewis, especially important in Piedmont’s zones 6a and 6b, with relatively short growing seasons and trustworthy first and last frost dates.

Cold frames play a big role.

Lewis says their plant start suppliers use of enormous industrial cold frames, but Meadows is happy to help retail customers choose materials to make their own heat-holding huts.

“Cold frames may not be a money saver,” Lewis acknowledges, but for Piedmont home growers “who want to know what is in their food, growing it (yourself) is the best way to do that.”

A cold frame is a structure that looks and operates much like a small greenhouse. It usually has four sides, the frame typically constructed from wood or metal.

The cold frame concept evolved from so-called “hot beds” widely used in ancient times by early Chinese, Roman, Greek and European agriculture producers and homesteaders. They used the heat from decomposing livestock litter heaped around garden rows to protect plants from frost and extend the growing season.

Modern growers can be creative – even thrifty, when making a cold frame: scrap wood (not pressure-treated,) old windows, shower doors, even plywood or solid wood cabinet doors can be used for the frame. Decomposing cow or horse manure can be

Hot tips for cold frames

• Location is key: In Fauquier, select a south-facing spot that gets lots of sunlight, is protected from the wind and has good drainage.

• Drainage is critical, too: Avoid soggy spots. To boost drainage, dig out 3 or 4 inches of topsoil on the site, fill with coarse gravel and then put 6 inches of topsoil back for planting into.

• Hot vs. too hot: When daytime temps rise above 40 degrees, especially on a sunny day, don’t “bake” the plants inside your cold frame. Prop open the lid, closing it in the late afternoon to trap heat back inside for nights that can be chilly even in May and June.

• Layers for comfort: Extra insulation at night can help keep summer fruiting crops (tomatoes, squash) super warm at night. Toss a blanket, or a blanket of straw or layers of newspaper or stacks of old magazines on top of the cold frame lid. Snow works, in season, but be careful not to break your lid with too much weight.

This also allows the gardener or garden worker to monitor growth and maturity progress and manage moisture and temperatures multiple times daily.

A cold frame can extend the growing season so much that you can grow certain fruits, vegetables and herbs year-round.

Cool season crops (kale, lettuce) prefer a temperature 65 to 70 degrees during the day, 55 to 60 degrees at night. Warm seasons crops (beets, cucumbers) like it 65 to 75 degrees daytime, not lower than 60 degrees nighttime.

mounded against the cold frame to add a level of windbreak and residual warmth.

The sides and top of a cold frame are made of see-through materials, like glass or plastic which allow sunlight to penetrate while preventing heat escape.

Vegetables especially suited to cold frames include lettuce, kale, spinach, radishes, arugula, broccoli, beets, chard, cabbage, green onion and mustard.

Another benefit to using raised cold frames is keeping rabbits and other animals, including pets, from devouring your crop.

20 Spring
Faces &
2023
Places
Cold frames are the secret to strong young plants ready to go early in the growing season. You can buy a kit or make your own from salvage materials. The simple science of a cold frame extends the growing season. See FRAMES, page 29 Bobby Lewis, left, operates Meadows Farms founded by his uncle, William Meadows.

Deep dive

Blu Water Scuba offers a world of adventure

A tagline for underwater fun and adventure sounds like a stretch in land-locked Fauquier County, but it’s not only possible but guaranteed through Jim McKee’s thriving business more than 13 years, Blu Water Scuba.

“There’s nothing like diving,” in terms of excitement and exotic interest as learning to “breathe” underwater, says McKee. From Blu Water, he’s able to introduce people to what many would consider an extreme sport available even in inland Virginia. “I want to share the passion.”

The Wisconsin native was introduced to the open water when serving in the U.S. Navy, says veteran McKee.

He turns 70 this year.

After his military duty, McKee had a long career in the custom home building industry. When he retired from that, he capitalized on his experience and expertise in the – and under the – water, opening a scuba shop in Manassas in 2010.

In 2016, after deciding location and foot traffic could only be a plus for his business, he moved Blu Water Scuba to 50 Culpeper St. in Warrenton where he lives with his wife, Mailin.

Blu Water offers diving lessons for all ages and experience levels. Blu Water Scuba is also a PADI five-star Instructor Development Center.

Most classes are held at the Warrenton Aquatic and Recreation Facility where students can train and practice in a safe, enclosed environment with qualified instructors teaching everything from the most basic skills for a one-time resort dive in shallow water, for instance, to the technical expertise required to earn advanced certification. Courses begin with

PADI – what is it?

In 1966, John Cronin, a scuba equipment salesman for U.S. Divers, and Ralph Erickson, a swimming instructor, started a scuba training organization, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. PADI was created, Cronin said, to bring a measurable level of professionalism to the diving certification industry. Today, PADI is the world’s largest ocean exploration and diving organization. They operate in 186 countries and territories with 6,600 dive centers and resorts. Forerunners in the world of diving, PADI certifications are considered the standard measure.

padi.com

the basic Discover Scuba class, graduating to the Open Water certification, Underwater Navigation, Deep Diver, Master Diver and more.

Who’s who at Blu

Ronda Sink is one of the 15 instructors at Blu Water. She says that, in addition to classes at the WARF, Blu Water partners with other centers including Winchester, Fairfax and a freshwater quarry in Fredericksburg. They offer frequent dive trips to Bonaire in the Caribbean, Cozumel in Mexico and the Caymans. A week-long trip to Bonaire is planned in June.

“The Florida Keys are a popular open dive destination,” Sink adds, saying domestic trips can be more affordable, more attainable for novice divers. Blu Water offers a unique guided “wreck dive” off the North Carolina coast.

Sand sharks are often seen swimming near divers during the Carolina trips, she says, lending another level of intrigue to the Blu Water adventure. bluwaterscuba.com

Spring 2023 21 Faces & Places
The seasoned, and certified, professionals at Blu Water Scuba in Warrenton lead underwater adventures around the world.
22 Spring 2023 Create the beautiful home you envision. Life is full of stress. Your home projects don’t have to add more. Many homeowners struggle to complete their never-ending list of home projects. At Gibson Home Services, we help clients prioritize their remodeling goals and accomplish their vision for their home. So, you can stop stressing over your projects and create the beautiful home you envision. Contact us to discuss your home remodeling and repair projects. aify 2005G VA Class A Licensed & Insured GibsonHomeServices.com 540.364.1200 Inquiry@GibsonHomeServices.com Carpentry Painting Tile Flooring Decks Handyman services Drywall Wood rot + more! Kitchens Bathrooms Basements Whole house IMPROVE REPAIR REMODEL TRUST. Marshall Consulting group Certified Public Accountants 400 Holiday Court Suite 202 Warrenton, VA 20186 540.347.2161 www.mcgllccpa.com 815 Caroline Street Fredericksburg, VA 22401 540 . 373 . 1262 202 East Davis Street Culpeper, VA 22701 540 . 825 . 8415 SAUCES & NOODLES & OLIVES & WOOD & CERAMICS... Shop in-store or online at tasteovs.com!

Fare & Flair

INSIDE THIS SECTION:

• Hit the sweet spot with Skyline master confectioner

• Apple wine takes a turn (for the better) when faced with a freeze

Food for Thought

Q and A with Mike Peterson, farm and conservation director for Kinloch Farm in The Plains

Hear the story of one of the Piedmont’s most historic cattle producers now looking at a fresh future with innovative practices

Kinloch comprises 1,200 acres on the western marches of the Bull Run Mountain range on the east edge of Fauquier County near The Plains. The ecologically diverse landscape includes native meadows of native warm-season grasses and perennial pastures that support hundreds

of “Certified Naturally Grown” cattle and an active apiary.

The symbiotic relationship of the farm and the land has stretched into a third generation of the Currier family, with innovation taking off as suburban and urban buyers rediscover the importance of clean land and clean food.

See KINLOCH, page 24

The details

Kinloch operates their Farm Store at the Archwood Green Barns Thursdays through Sundays 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

The Archwood Green Barns Farmers Market celebrates a 25th season this year, open May through December on Sundays 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. kinlochfarm.com

Spring 2023 23 Fare & Flair
Kinloch Farm on the west side of Bull Run Mountain is a third-generation cattle producer using meticulous land management for its grass-fed beef. Kinloch operates a year-round farm store.

inFauquier talked to Kinloch conservation director Mike Peterson to hear how the property has adopted best management practices for everything from their biggest bulls to their tiniest bees.

inFauquier: Kinloch honey is such a huge seller at your Farm Store, but we know bees are tricky to keep these days, what with hive collapse from drift off farms that spray chemical pesticides and herbicides. What is Kinloch doing to protect their pollinators?

Mike Peterson: We have three separate apiary locations in and around Kinloch that offer an abundance of pollen sources. This is our first winter for a new colony following a collapse several years ago. Our apiary program is thriving.

Q: What management highlights are behind protecting your pollinators? Bee health is probably linked to pasture health?

A: We began with “Certified Naturally Grown” in 2013 for

Historic Kinloch

our beef program and in 2015 for our apiary.

No synthetic pesticides, fertilizers or herbicides have been used on our cattle pastures since then.

We rely on grazing management and promoting ecological cycles. In some of our native meadows, we strategically

Kinloch Farm dates back to 1823 under the founding stewardship of the Turner family. The Chrysler and Dancer families also made Kinloch their home prior to 1960 when Stephen and Audrey Currier purchased the property with the intention of building a family legacy for generations to come.

Virginia was familiar to Audrey’s side of the family with Audrey herself attending the Foxcroft School in the late 1940s.

The Curriers’ primary work was national in scope and active in the area of civil rights.

They added four adjacent properties to enlarge the farm, reaching to and beyond the Bull Run Mountains, which represented a “green belt” to the city of Washington, purchased along with a neighbor for citizens to enjoy as a protected natural area and public treasure.

Farming under the Curriers consisted of a traditional Piedmont cow-calf operation, making hay, growing corn and selling animals to the local livestock exchange.

Following the death of Audrey and Stephen Currier in a plane crash in 1967, the second generation took control and continued the pivot toward organic, novel and holistic farm practices. Early vinifera grapes in the Piedmont were grown at Kinloch; in 1984, Kinloch was certified as an organic farm by the Virginia Association of Biological Farmers.

Under the stewardship of Andrea Currier, Kinloch has grown to protect open space, land and wildlife conservation and regenerative farming. The Piedmont Environmental Council, Virginia Outdoors Foundation, Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute, John Marshall Soil and Water Conservation District and Virginia Working Landscapes have been partners in Kinloch’s evolution and commitment to a set of continuously refined “best practices.”

Today, the third generation of Curriers engage in the family legacy with a retail market for Kinloch grassfed beef, honey and other locally grown foods.

utilize fire, mowing and sporadic spot spraying to combat invasive species in fields we do not graze.

We take this approach to set our invasive population back so our native species can thrive. An abundance of native species promotes healthy structure, habitat and food for wildlife and pollinators.

Q: That conservation program helps the farm, and maybe reaches out to your Fauquier neighborhood and the earth in general?

A: Conservation and agriculture are completely intertwined here. We have the same philosophical management in a fescue field or a native meadow where cattle do not graze.

We promote resilience and ecological cycles across our landscape. An abundance of grassland birds, insects and other wildlife indicates a healthy and functional system (for everybody, and every space.)

Q: What’s new this year? New products? New partners?

A: We’re excited to partner with several local companies to expand our whole animal utilization. We continue to partner with Swallowtail Ridge, who uses our suet and beef tallow to make botanical soaps and balms that we sell in our store, which she also offers on her own online store.

Similarly, we sell Jonathan Elliot’s pasture-raised chick-

They put the farm in farmers markets

Archwood Green Barns

Farmers’ Market

4559 Old Tavern Rd., The Plains

Sundays from May to December, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Buckland Farm Market

4484 Lee Highway, New Baltimore

Daily, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Messick’s Farm Market

6025 Catlett Rd., Bealeton

Mondays to Saturdays, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Sundays, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.

Warrenton Farmers Market

Main St. between Third St. and Court St., Warrenton

Saturdays from April to November, 8 a.m. to noon

en, in addition to chicken from Rucker.

And we (just launched) a line of ready-to-eat foods produced at Evermade Foods in Warrenton.

Our first offerings were shepherd’s pie, beef stew and chili con carne.

Later this spring, we’ll roll out the first of our leather products produced from our cattle hides. We also have ready-to-eat meat sticks and a selection of fresh sausages made with our beef by our friends at Meat Crafters.

Q: Talking cattle – what are Kinloch’s numbers?

A: Our herd total right now is about 500, including 2022 fall calves, stockers, finishers and bulls, plus our 200 brood cows.

The entire herd is 100% grassfed and finished. We feed no grain and have specifically developed a line that thrives on grass alone. The foundation of our herd is from a historic line of Aberdeen Angus bulls and cows.

24 Spring 2023 Fare & Flair
Prescribed burns are one way for Kinloch managers to control invasive weeds and keep the land productive in native grasses and forage.
Naturally sweet wildflower honey is a byproduct of Kinloch’s healthy land management.
KINLOCH, from page 23

Meet chef Woody Isaac: Experience, innovation at Warrenton’s Denim and Pearls

Putting heart and soul (and a heaping helping of family fare) into gourmet offerings in Old Town

Old Town Warrenton has the charm of the small-town south, its historic Main Street selected as a backdrop for everything from a Clint Eastwood movie to presidential visits from Teddy Roosevelt to Bill Clinton.

Another downtown draw is the increasing focus on the foodie, with an intra-county gastronomical tour offering a wide array of choices.

One of the most unique restaurants in the region, Denim and Pearls boasts an array of dining options from traditional indoor seating to street-side parklet tables, a bar, events rooms, wine dinners and more.

Popular additions have been brunch and lunch menus, part of the vision of chef Woody Isaac.

Isaac was born in Wichita, Kansas and lived in Berlin, Germany when he was young. His father was in the U.S. Air Force and stationed there. His mother is German.

The family moved to Fauquier County when Isaac was 4.

“I really am a local,” Isaac

Chill out with a cold one this season

says, though he’s proud to have retained part of his half-German heritage – fluency in the language and some cuisine choices.

“Growing up I didn’t really know what I wanted to do as a career, but when I started working in kitchens, I loved it and caught on very quickly,”

Isaac traces the traditional culinary trajectory. Unlike many that work in restaurants when they’re young, though, Isaac “stuck with it.

“My dad always liked to cook, so it’s definitely in the blood a little bit.”

See ISAAC, page 29

clocking in at a whopping 12.3% ABV. This delicious sipper falls into the pastry stout category first pioneered by The Bruery, one of the great breweries from southern California. Thicc is heavy on notes of banana and chocolate hazelnut due to the inclusion of Nutella in the blend.

The brewmasters add a healthy dose of marshmallow fluff to round out the pastry profile.

As if things could get better for beer lovers living in Fauquier County, some new breweries a short drive out of Warrenton recently opened their doors. Now, in addition to local favorites like Old Bust Head Brewery, Altered Hops, Powers Farm Brewery and Broken Rose Brewery, there are several new venues in the region. Haymarket never seemed destined to become the next big beer hub in the Piedmont, but that’s become the case with the arrival of Trouvaille Brewing Company and Great Mane Brewery, joining The Farm Brewery at Broad Run.

Classic favorites include Mosaic Dreams, an easy drinking hazy IPA and delicious and fragrant Tangerine IPA. Unique Mezcal Aged Wee Heavy clocks in at an impressive 9% ABV, and Fat Bird is an equally impressive German Weizenbock.

Trouvaille is housed in an old school

building. The name, French, translates to “lucky find.”

This is certainly the case at the new craft beer oasis. Walking inside, you are greeted by a sleek, clean industrial design accented with white subway tiles and exposed hanging light fixtures. With ample indoor and outdoor space, it is a great place to spend a lazy spring weekend. Dogs are welcome too, and kids.

Trouvaille was started by a group of home brewing friends who decided to take the leap and open their own commercial brewery and associated brewpub. It’s rare not to find one of the owners behind the bar helping customers. They love to share their passion for beer, and their varied backgrounds are reflected in the highly eclectic beer menu.

Start with Thicc, an imperial stout

Not for the faint at heart, this is an ideal beer to linger over, or a great finish after a round of tacos from Zandra’s Taqueria next door to the brewery.

For something a little lighter on the palette, try Hooked on Phenolics, a Belgian Tripel with a delicate balance of clove and spice rounded out with notes of fruit. Also, be sure to sample the classic American pale ale, Laminated Electrical Donuts, as well as the well-hopped Fomodork, a delightfully hazy IPA brewed with a combination of Cascade, Galaxy and Strata hops.

Tucked behind the Sheetz at Haymarket, Great Mane Brewery is in a cavernous warehouse space which makes it custom-crafted for larger groups and families to spend the day. Leather sofas, high top tables and a space in the back for kids to play make it a very appealing venue.

See BEER, page 29

Spring 2023 25 Fare & Flair
Denim and Pearls chef Woody Isaac, left, says his favorite bite is his spicy shrimp and grits.
Fun, friends, family, froth: Purely Fauquier

Aiming for the stars with Skyline Sweets

Turtles are tops, says chocolate chef Josh Merrell: Sweet, chewy, crunchy and home-made with a special trade secret

Master chocalatier at Marshall start-up Skyline Sweets, Joshua Merrell knows he’s got a sweet gig.

Skyline may be the side hustle to his career as a federal contractor, but Merrell loves it. He embraces the precision of culinary science and a heaping helping of the fine arts he uses to concoct the delights he and wife, Anne, sell at farmers markets to a growing group of local chocolate addicts.

Josh, 31, is from Norfolk, peanut capital of the world. He met Anne, 29, when they were both students at Brigham Young University. They both work in D.C. --

Anne at the Daughters of the American Revolution headquarters. They moved to Marshall in 2020 because they wanted a backyard for their kids (two now, another due in June) and cherished the old-fashioned

Cool as a cucumber

Late spring is the perfect time to consider what you’ll want to chill out on a hot day this summer

The Virginia Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners are serving up suggestions for some pretty cool stuff, global version, this season.

Romanesco

No this isn’t an Italian lettuce. Also known as Romanesco broccoli or Roman cauliflower, this underutilized brassica looks like a cross between broccoli and cauliflower, but it is not. Romanesco is a unique cultivar onto its own dating back to 16th century Rome.

The vivid green heads of Romanesco are composed of numerous cone-shaped flower buds that create a beautiful fractal pattern. It has a mild, slightly nutty flavor and can be prepared in a manner sim-

nostalgia of a small town, a tight-knit community to raise their family. They found all that, and more, in Marshall and in an 1875 farmhouse just south of the traffic light in the village. Now painted a rich, dark blue, sections of the frame house are pre-civil war. It’s big enough for the growing clan, Josh adds, the big front porch and sidewalk tying them directly to town, a loving embrace from their adopted homeplace.

Skyline Sweets took root years ago when Josh was a kid; he’d help his grandmothers craft handmade candies every year at Christmastime. It was mostly sticking his messy fingers in the

bowls, Josh admits, but he’s adapted their old recipes – some written down, some not, for Skyline. Using a combination of trial and error and YouTube, he’s created unique versions of buttermints, pecan rolls, fondant and handmade caramel, pecan and chocolate (dark or milk) turtles that are by far Skyline’s biggest sellers.

“There’s a sweet spot when making the caramel” for the turtles, Josh explains, “not too runny, not too tacky. It’s not fun to eat if its not perfect.”

As to the “secret ingredient” that makes Skyline the busiest, buzziest space at the Archwood farmers market in The Plains, Josh says it’s simple. “The

Like traditional cucumbers, they make great pickles.

Master Gardener Tiffany Black learned of them two years ago when her regular variety of cukes was unavailable and says she’s hooked.

main ingredient is love.”

It doesn’t hurt to stir in lots of butter, sugar and heavy cream, but Skyline treats are good for what they don’t have, too - no artificial flavoring, no artificial coloring.

“I’m a strong believer in stories connecting people,” Josh says. “Skyline is where sweets and stories meet. When you eat one of our treats, that’s the story of my family. Local commerce is key to connecting people.

“As convenient as Amazon is, it robs you of the personal interconnections and interactions that make friendships and bonds.

“We’re trying to bring that back,” one treat at a time.

skylinesweets.com

the bulbils will root into the soil, and voila, the onion has “walked” to its new location.

ilar to broccoli or cauliflower.

Romanesco is a cool season vegetable that performs best in Fauquier as a fall-harvested crop; so, this spring, make sure to mark your calendar for mid-summer: Early July is a good time to sow Romanesco seeds in the ground or in flats.

If you choose a 100-day heirloom variety sow the seeds in June.

Seedlings from flats should be transplanted into the garden by the first week of August.

Armenian

Cucumbers

These look, grow and taste like cucumbers, but they are not cucumbers at all. They are white-fleshed muskmelons shaped like cucumbers, with a crisp, mildly sweet flavor.

Like their squash relatives, these interesting melons are good at hiding behind leaves and can grow to 3 feet if left too long on the vine. They are best harvested at 12 to 15 inches in length for cooking like summer squash.

Pick them sooner to eat raw.

Grow Armenian cucumbers (Cucumis melo) just like regular cucumbers (Cucumis sativa). These tropical plants require warm soil and warm weather. Seeds germinate best if the soil is over 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Stagger seed planting dates from late May through July to increase the harvest period.

Egyptian Walking Onions.

These vigorous perennial onions are top-setting, meaning that the onion bulbs grow on top of the onion stalk instead of being hidden underground. When a cluster of bulbils becomes heavy enough to cause the onion stalk to fall over,

Egyptian walking onions, also known as Allium x proliferum and tree onions, should be fall-planted for harvesting in the next year. Now is the time to place your order for these delicious curiosities.

Simply plant the bulb, which looks like a tiny shallot, no more than an inch deep in the soil. You will be greeted in March with tasty green onion leaves that can be harvested all summer through late fall.

These ambulatory onions are a staple plant in the garden and kitchen of Master Gardener Elaine Dubin. She recommends using them liberally in cooking -- chopped up big in stir fries, chopped up fine for toppings – and sharing the prolific plant with friends.

If you want to see the onions walk, let the main shoot grow, and about midway through the season, you will see purple red bulb clusters forming at the top. You may eat the bulbils if you wish, plant them yourself in a new location or let the onion walk on its own.

26 Spring 2023 Fare & Flair
Romanesco Skyline Sweets' Joshua Merrell carefully dips a pecan-caramel cluster into melted dark chocolate for a hand-crafted ‘turtle.’

Apples, cold weather combine for delicious, and uniquely Fauquier, flavor

Ice wine is a tasty trademark of Markham’s Chateau O’Brien

Howard O’Brien has always had a strong affinity to France. Even his winery’s name, Chateau O’Brien, is a sly reference to the renowned Bordeaux property Chateau Haut Brion. It’s not surprising that, on a trip to Normandy in northern France several years back, he became intrigued with the idea of apple wine. Normandy produces Calvados, the widely loved apple brandy.

O’Brien took it a step further, considering whether at his Markham vineyard and winery he could produce a true Virginia specialty –homegrown apple ice wine.

Ice wine is an extremely rare quaff. True ice wine is harvested after grapes have frozen while still on the vine. The sugars and other solids do not freeze, but the water does, allowing for a more concentrated juice to be extracted.

The best ice wines come from cold regions in Germany, Canada and upstate New York.

Here in Fauquier – known for cold winters, but not all that cold, Chateau O’Brien has at least part of the puzzle: the winery is surrounded by apple orchards, some dating back

200 years.

Waiting for apples to freeze on the trees doesn’t work since when apples ripen, they fall to the ground and, eventually, rot.

O’Brien figured out a workaround.

Vintners at Chateau

O’Brien use Pink Lady, Honeycrisp, Granny Smith and other apples for the wine blend.

Ripe apples are shredded then mashed. In a refrigerated tank, the apples “freeze like a rock,” according to O’Brien.

Fermentation takes place after the mashed apples are allowed to melt.

The pure, silky liquid is bottled when residual sugar reaches 11%, fairly low by dessert wine standards. Rich and flavorful, crisp and clean, Chateau

O’Brien Apple Ice Wine shows peach, honey and – obviously –

Chateau O’Brien

Markham

chateauobrien.com

(540) 364-6441

howard@chateauobrien.com

Chateau O’Brien Apple Ice

Wine 2018

$54/375 milliliter bottle

Additional flavors at Château O’Brien:

French Champagnes: Palmer and Gosset

Nick’s Blueberry Apple Wine

April’s Apple Rose

Virginia Apple Wine Award-winning Cabernet

Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Tannat

ripe apple flavors with notes of candied brown sugar.

Only about 100 cases of this rare treat are bottled each year.

The wine makes a pleasant dessert in itself, though O’Brien suggests pairing it with cheesecake, pound cake, ice cream or panna cotta. Chateau O’Brien Apple Ice Wine is also wonderful with soft, full-fat cheeses such as brie and camembert.

Arterra Winery

Jason Murray at Arterra Winery crafts another Fauquier trademark at his Delaplane location.

Murray utilizes 100% native yeast fermentations, a tricky endeavor as you must be on constant watch to make sure the yeasts are doing their job correctly. He uses no adjustments or balancing or stabilizing agents and lets the wine undergo malolactic fermentation naturally. This is the same labor-intensive process that produces Burgundy’s most sought-after wines.

Each vintage expresses the characteristics found only at that moment in time, only at this particular corner of Fauquier.

As Murray puts it, Arterra is literally one of a kind.

The Arterra tasting room also functions as a gallery space for Hawkmoth Arts, showcasing the ceramics of Murray’s wife, Sandy Gray-Murray. She takes her inspiration from the lush

Apple ice wine baba

A delicious variation on the classic Baba au Rhum

3 tablespoons butter

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons yeast

2 cups sugar (divided)

4 eggs

5 ounces Chateau O’Brien

Apple Ice Wine

5 tablespoons cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 cups water

In a saucepan, melt the butter and let it cool.

In the bowl of a mixer, mix flour, salt, yeast, 3 teaspoons of sugar and 3 eggs with a hook at low speed. Add the other egg and the melted butter and knead until you get a dough that is ready to be used with a pastry bag.

Pipe the dough into muffin pan cups, and let it rise by at least a third. Bake at 320° Fahrenheit for 20 to 25 minutes. For the syrup, boil 2 cups water with 2 cups sugar, then add the ice wine. Remove from heat; stir until it thickens.

Top the babas with the syrup and serve with vanilla ice cream.

Arterra Wines

Delaplane

arterrawines.com

(540) 422-3443

arterrawines@gmail.com

Hawkmoth Arts

Co-located with Arterra Wines

hawkmothartsinfo@gmail.com

vineyards surrounding her. Of special interest to Fauquier’s horse community, Gray-Murray practices the art of horsehair Raku. This artistic technique uses horsehair to create a cloud-like, swirling pattern that is burnt onto the surface of a hot ceramic piece.

Horse owners are able to bring in their own hair to make a personalized item, and Gray-Murray conducts other pottery and art classes yearround.

Spring 2023 27 Fare & Flair
Fauquier apples lend a sweet, tangy flavor to Chateau O’Brien’s ice wine.

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Please contact the sales department at 540.347.4222 to learn how we can put the Fauquier Times audience to work for your business. From print advertising to our digital properties, the Fauquier Times has a solution for all your advertising needs.

From print advertising to our digital properties, the Fauquier Times has a solution for all your advertising needs.

Please contact the sales department at 540.347.4222 to learn how we can put the Fauquier Times audience to work for your business. From print advertising to our digital properties, the Fauquier Times has a solution for all your advertising needs.

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53 S. 3rd St. Warrenton, VA 20186

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28 Spring 2023
Tony Haugan Multimedia Advertising Sales Manager ahaugan@fauquier.com Nancy Keyser Multimedia Advertising Executive nkeyser@fauquier.com
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Ice plant – that’s one cool customer for your garden

Lots of look-alikes are available in native varieties, too

The ice plant is the common name of the popular Delosperma Cooperi species.

This drought-tolerant plant is a perennial ground cover succulent, native to South Africa. In Virginia’s Piedmont region, the ice plant produces aster-like flowers, which bloom all summer long.

FRAMES, from page 20

And having a cold frame to get a head start on the growing season, or to extend it a few weeks past the traditional mid-October “last frost” date, the miniature greenhouse structures are the way to do it.

Sharon Lindstrom, an avid local home gardener at age 79, says she wants to know what is in her food. Too, being outside with her hands in the dirt - digging, tending, harvesting - makes her feel in touch with creation and that, she says, fully restores her soul.

Lindstrom says she no longer has the mobility to garden the traditional way as bending and kneeling in her beds are no longer options but using raised cold frames allows her to get her hands good and dirty again. “Gardening may seem a small thing … so I appreciate the option of cold frames.”

Catlett home gardener

Bruce Thoen has been tending his garden with home-styled cold frames he built out of old

BEER, from page 25

It grows best in a sunny location, often planted as a ground cover and for erosion control. The ice plant grows 3 to 6 inches high, spreading 2 to 4 inches. The ice plant prefers well-drained soil, including sandy soils or poor soils, as long as they’re quick to drain. It has fleshy foliage, which turns a darker shade of green as the temperature starts dropping. Ice plants can stay evergreen in the south, and a healthy, well-protected plant in Fauquier’s zone 6a or 6b can sometimes stay green through

house windows since the early 1980s. “Imagine a rectangle 12 feet by 14 inches to accommodate the width of the seedling tray,” says Thoen. “The height of the back side was 16 inches by 12 feet, and the front 12 inches by 12 feet.”

The long, narrow dimensions gave him the slope required so rainwater could run off of the windows when it stormed.

Thoen’s custom-crafted cold frames are hinged in the back so they can be propped open when daytime temperatures start to rise, snugly closed against nighttime chill.

“It worked really well, and the cold frames added four to five weeks to the northern Virginia growing season,” Thoen says.

Lewis recommends making sure cold frames are built upon solid base soil, or gravel, on level ground, situated to receive as much sunlight as possible. “I also suggest using supplemental heaters during the cold season,” adds Lewis.

The brewing equipment dominates the back part of the taproom, offering the added treat of seeing the process unfolding right in front of your eyes. A food truck is usually on site on weekends, and delivery food is also welcome inside the brewery.

Started by two friends with a passion for brewing, you will find many approachable and instant classics on the beer menu. As a

Ice plant comes in a variety of hues and blooms all summer.

most of the winter.

The name comes from a peculiar trait: When light reflects on an ice plant’s leaves and flowers, it creates a shimmering effect as though the plant is covered in ice crystals or frost,

Keeping it native

If you like the look of the ice plant but want to join the slow roll of the Go Native movement returning to ornamentals that are native to Virginia, consider Canada Anemone or Common Blue Violet. Both are low-growing perennials that spread to form a dense ground cover. Both have small flowers and rich green foliage, and both are easy to grow.

hence the descriptive name. Though not native, the ice plant attracts, and feeds, many area pollinators.

Small, daisy-like flowers blossom throughout the spring with repeat blooms in the summer.

As a teen, Isaac worked in local restaurants – line cook at the old Napoleon’s near Old Town, line cook and kitchen manager at the Hunter’s Head in Upperville.

He cooked three years at Poplar Springs in Casanova and spent at year at Trummer’s on Main in Clifton.

He spent four years at the Iron Bridge in the same Main Street space occupied by Denim and Pearls.

When asked his current “favorite” among the varied Denim and Pearls menu selections, Isaac says he loves the spicy shrimp and grits and the traditional coq au vin. “I love cooking so many different things,” he says. “Like porchetta, an Italian dish that is a pork belly roulade stuffed with garlic and herbs, rolled and tied and cooked sous vide and then roasted in the oven until crispy on the outside.

“At Denim and Pearls, we have 100 percent control over what we do with the menus, “ he says. “We change the menu

newer brewery, Great Mane is always trying to keep customer favorites front and center; so, be sure to share your opinion on what you are drinking with the bar staff.

Donal might be the perfect spring beer, with hints of lemon zest and a classic farmhouse ale profile that pairs well with barbecue or any food with a little kick in the taste profile. John Doe is another natural pairing for a spring picnic. This highly appealing saison style beer has just the right blend

seasonally, but we have staples and fan favorites.” They serve daily specials.

Though Denim and Pearls keeps it upscale with a gourmet twist, Isaac tries to infuse a bit of homestyle in his cooking, family fare style. He uses his three young children as a gauge for taste and accessibility.

“My kids always want me to cook eggs Benedict,” Isaac says. “My 8-year-old daughter likes to help me in the kitchen. It’s a little time-consuming making the Hollandaise sauce and poaching the eggs so it’s more of a special occasion dish.”

As much as she loves to cook, his daughter is already planning a career in cuisine. Isaac tempers her enthusiasm for the job with a dose of reality.

“A chef is working long hours, weekends and holidays,” he says he cautions her youthful ardor. “But if she really wants to do it, I would embrace it and help her anyway I could.”

denimandpearlsrestaurant.com

29 Main St, Warrenton

of hops and spice and is a reliable option for anyone in your group that might not be looking for a hoppy IPA.

Finish with a pint of Born Black Imperial Stout. You can definitely taste the 10% alcohol level that is layered into eight varieties of malt and complimented with notes of coffee, chocolate and candied fruit.

trouvaillebrewingco.com

greatmanebrewery.com

Spring 2023 29 Fare & Flair
ISAAC, from page 25

The power of perspective

I’m a writer. Right?

How hard could it be?

I shakily shared with a friend of my deceased fiancé and mine how the cursor on a blank page on my computer had been blinking back at me for months as I struggled to write our story.

I was the wordsmith. I should have them at hand.

But I did not.

“You’ll find the right words; don’t worry,” our friend kindly counseled. “Let God do the talking; you’re just holding the pen.”

These were the words I needed to get going.

The tiny exchange reminded me of the gift that keeps on giving in the form of a lesson my beloved Tommy had left me with – the value of changing your perspective.

Pennsylvania native Tom Wyld was a familiar face in Warrenton where he lived for many years, most notably as a chorister at his beloved church, St. James’ Episcopal. But as many or more at Molly’s Pub downtown also knew him as Tommy. It was his favorite spot to relax and gab and catch up with friends.

Tommy was as well-known in the D.C. area where he spent much of his time working to support issues close to his heart after retiring as U.S. Navy commander in 1990.

I’d first met Tommy the year my parents and I lived in my mother’s birth country of Portugal. The U.S. Consulate was hosting a reception for U.S. ships participating in NATO exercises the week of Thanksgiving, 1976.

Tommy, a Navy lieutenant and two other young officers spent the holiday weekend with my family, Tommy remaining an extra week to meet a U.S. ship for the return stateside.

My mother said it was easy to treat him like family: she made sure he was fed well and had a hot water bottle to warm his bed. My retired Coast Guard father loved trading military stories and friendly banter about which was better – the Navy or the Coast Guard.

Laughter and loving banter echoed throughout the house; it was at once entertaining and enchanting.

Of course, I was also captivated by

Tommy’s charismatic smile, dazzling blue eyes, magnetic personality and uproarious sense of humor. But it was his gentle way of engaging me in conversations, challenging my thinking without challenging me that captured my heart. Without realizing it, I was learning how to think outside of my little box.

In a moment of what my teen brain translated as bravery during one of our strolls to the beach one afternoon, I reached in my purse for the cigarette I had been carrying for weeks, curious to try and eager to show off how grown-up I was.

“Oh, that’s going to hide your pretty smile,” Tommy said with a grin. He gently replaced the cigarette in my hand with his hand. My heart fluttered.

Tommy had a unique ability to help others see through a different lens, which often changed their perspective on issues. The skill served him in all his careers –the Navy, then as vice president of legislative affairs for the NRA, communications director for SWIFTVETS, director of communications for Osen Hunter and as vice president of government relations for the Motorcycle Riders Foundation.

Through MRF, he helped highlight the social, physical and emotional benefits of riding a motorcycle and helped secure the Murkowski Amendment to the federal highway bill to guarantee funding for state motorcycle safety programs.

Tommy was inducted into the Sturgis Motorcycle Freedom Fighter Hall of Fame in 2002.

For Tommy though, his successes were less important than negotiating with people and making friends. He listened more than he talked, especially to people whose opinions he did not share both professionally and personally. It was what I’d heard during those friendly exchanges

with my father all those years ago about Navy versus the Coast Guard.

Though Tommy and I had exchanged letters for a few months after he left Portugal, life took us in different directions.

But just as life has twists and turns, it has surprises as well.

Thirty-seven years after our first meeting, we reconnected after he heard the news of my father’s passing. Three years later, I was living in Virginia, looking forward to our future. It seemed like time had stood still between decades when one December evening I was standing in the soft falling snow atop a hill in Warrenton, holding hands with and wrapped in the peacoat of the man I only dreamed I would see again, both of us gazing at a house he said he was going to buy for us.

I’ve heard it said, “Maybe it’s not about the happy ending; maybe it’s about the story.” This is what I keep telling myself.

His faith in God sustained him as he fought valiantly, but Tommy ultimately lost his battle with cancer March 2, 2020, two months before his 72nd birthday.

With a heart broken in a million places and worn out from a year of asking why, I knew something had to shift, or I would be consumed with sorrow.

I owed myself, and Tommy, better than that.

After much reflection and prayer, I came to see that I was feeling so broken and cheated because I was lamenting about how I loved him, and he was gone, and it wasn’t fair.

One little shift changed things: I began to think about it from a different perspective. I began to reflect on his love for me, and all the ways he showed that love. Tommy didn’t just give me gifts on special occasions; he planned experiences around them. He was always looking out for me, from insisting on being the one to drive at the sight of one snowflake or buying me new shoes because he thought the ones I had weren’t supportive enough.

When I shifted my perspective from how I loved him to how he loved me, I was refueled and refreshed, and I saw how very blessed I was, which was a reason to celebrate, not lament.

Tommy left me – and the world – a lingering gift: practice in how to see things from a different perspective. This present – this perfectly pertinent present-- plus knowing I was deeply loved by him not once, but twice, helped me finally find the words to share Tommy’s tale.

30 Spring 2023 The Last Word
Alissa Jones The Last Word

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