The Ethical Magasine by FashionSocietyUoY

NO FOX GIVEN Vegsoc and fashion soc present May 2019

C O N T E N T S E D I T O R I A L B Y J E N N A W A L O P P A G E 1 I S F A S H I O N D E S T R O Y I N G T H E E N V I R O N M E N T ? B Y I F R A M A H M O O D P A G E 2 5 W A Y S E M M A W A T S O N I N S P I R E S E T H I C A L F A S H I O N B Y T A H I R A M O H A M E D B H A I P A G E 3 I N T E R V I E W C O R I N N E C O O L I C A N B Y R E B E C C A G A L L O N P A G E 5 P A G E 7 V I C T O R I A D R A W S & T H E S E A P A G E 9 T H E S H E E P I S H T R U T H A B O U T W O O L P R O D U C T I O N B Y K A T Y W A T S O N P A G E 1 1 P U N K Y B U N N Y B Y E M M A P O W E L L P A G E 1 3 N O T H I N G N E W B Y R U T H I E R U

C O N T E N T S E T H I C A L F A S H I O N T H R O U G H O U T T H E D E C A D E S S P R E A D P A G E 1 5 B U I L D I N G A N E T H I C A L B R A N D B Y K A T E W A I N R I G H T P A G E 2 3 Y O R K F A S H I O N W E E K : E T H I C A L F A S H I O N S H O W B Y D A V E T A Y L O R P A G E 2 4 P A G E 2 5

I t i s e s t i m a t e d t h a t 8 5 % o f o u r c l o t h e s e n d u p i n l a n d f i l l s i t e s , i n c l u d i n g t h o s e t h a t w e s e n d t o c h a r i t i e s t o s e l l T h e w a y i t w o r k s i s , y o u s e n d y o u r c l o t h e s t o c h a r i t y s h o p s T h e n , c h a r i t y s h o p s w i l l s i f t t h r o u g h t h e m a n d f i n d o n e s t h a t a r e s e l l a b l e T h o s e t h a t c a n ’ t b e s o l d , a r e s e n t t o l a n d f i l l , w h i c h c a u s e s d y e s a n d c h e m i c a l s t o d i s s o l v e i n r i v e r s , p o l l u t i n g t h e n a t u r a l e n v i r o n m e n t N o t o n l y t h a t , b u t t h o s e c l o t h e s t h a t n o o n e b u y s f r o m c h a r i t y s h o p s e n d u p b e i n g s h i p p e d t o t h i r d w o r l d c o u n t r i e s s u c h a s L i b y a a n d E t h i o p i a I f t h e y a r e n o t b o u g h t t h e r e e i t h e r , t h e n t h e p o v e r t y s t r i c k e n s h o p o w n e r s i n t h e s e s a i d c o u n t r i e s a r e l e f t t o b u r n t h e s e c l o t h e s t o o , c a u s i n g h a r m f u l C a r b o n e m i s s i o n s I t ’ s a v i c i o u s c y c l e ! E v e n c l o t h i n g b r a n d s s u c h a s H & M t h a t p r o m o t e t h e r e c y c l i n g o f c l o t h e s c a n n o t r e c y c l e e v e r y p i e c e C l o t h e s m a d e o f c o t t o n f o r e x a m p l e , w h e n r e c y c l e d , a r e s h r e d d e d i n t o s h o r t c o t t o n f i b r e s w h i c h r e d u c e t h e q u a l i t y o f t h e c o t t o n , a n d t h e r e f o r e c a n n o t b e m a d e i n t o t h e c o m f o r t a b l e c l o t h i n g w e a r e u s e d t o T h e r i s e i n f a s t f a s h i o n h a s a l s o c r e a t e d a p r e s s u r e o n p a r t i c u l a r b r a n d s a n d s h o p s t o p r o d u c e m o r e c l o t h i n g W o r k e r s i n c o u n t r i e s l i k e B a n g l a d e s h s l a v e a w a y i n t h e p o o r e s t c o n d i t i o n s f o r h o u r s a n d h o u r s t o r e c e i v e t h e a b s o l u t e m i n i m u m w a g e s , i n w h i c h t h e y r u n e n t i r e h o u s e h o l d s o n , o u t o f s h e e r d e s p e r a t i o n ; t h e e x p l o i t a t i o n o f s u c h w o r k e r s n e e d s t o s t o p ! W e s h o u l d m a k e a m o r e c o n s c i o u s e f f o r t t o b u y p i e c e s o f c l o t h i n g f o r o u r w a r d r o b e s t h a t a r e a c t u a l l y g o i n g t o s t a y i n o u r w a r d r o b e s , r a t h e r t h a n b e t h r o w n o u t a f t e r o n e o r t w o u s e s N o t o n l y t h a t , b u t u t i l i s e e v e r y p i e c e t h e n s e l l i t o r g i v e i t a w a y i n o r d e r t o r e u s e a n d r e c y c l e c l o t h i n g I t c a n a l s o h e l p t o b u y c l o t h e s t h a t a r e s e c o n d h a n d o r c l o t h e s t h a t h a v e b e e n r e c y c l e d "85% OF COUR LOTHES END UP LIN ANDFILL SITED " I t i s n o s e c r e t t h a t w e l i v e i n a f a s t p a c e d , m a t e r i a l i s t i c s o c i e t y i n w h i c h w e c o n s u m e a n d b u y a l o t m o r e t h a n w e d i d j u s t 1 0 y e a r s a g o W h e t h e r i t ’ s t o k e e p o n t r e n d o r s i m p l y p a r t a k e i n s o m e n e e d e d r e t a i l t h e r a p y s e s s i o n s ( w h a t w i t h t h e s t r e s s o f e s s a y s a n d d e a d l i n e s ) , w e b u y c l o t h e s i n l a r g e m a s s e s W e s e e m t o h a v e n o r m a l i s e d t h i s c u l t u r e o f f a s t f a s h i o n , t h e t r e n d o f b u y i n g a n d t h r o w i n g a w a y c l o t h e s a f t e r w e a r i n g t h e m f o r a s e a s o n ( s o m e t i m e s l e s s ) I k n o w o f s o m a n y p e o p l e w h o b u y a n d w e a r c l o t h i n g , t a k e a p i c t u r e f o r I n s t a g r a m , t h e n t h r o w i t a w a y t o a v o i d r e p e a t i n g i t o n t h e i r f e e d I t ’ s a s t h o u g h c l o t h e s w e r e n o t m a d e f o r p r a c t i c a l r e a s o n s s u c h a s t o k e e p u s c o v e r e d a n d w a r m , b u t t o s h o w o f f t o a c o u p l e o f p e o p l e t h e n t h r o w a w a y B! u t h a v e w e e v e r s t o p p e d t o t h i n k w h a t t h e i m p a c t o f t h i s i s o n t h e e n v i r o n m e n t ?

T h i s i c o n i c d e s i g n e r h a s a l o n g s t a n d i n g h i s t o r y o f p r o m o t i n g e t h i c a l l y p r o d u c e d c l o t h i n g . I t i s n o w o n d e r t h e n t h a t E m m a W a t s o n w o u l d k i c k o f f h e r p r e s s t o u r w i t h a s t u n n i n g S t e l l a M c C a r t n e y c o a t . T h e b e s t p a r t a b o u t h e r b r a n d i s t h a t i t s t a y s c u r r e n t w i t h t h e c h a n g i n g t r e n d s . S u c h a s t h e " d a d s n e a k e r " w h i c h i s c a t c h i n g o n l i k e w i l d f i r e . E v e r y t h i n g m a d e b y S t e l l a M c C a r t n e y i s v e g a n , i n l i n e w i t h h e r " c r u e l t y f r e e e t h o s " I t h i n k t h i s i s k e y t o e x t i n g u i s h i n g t h e p r e c o n c e i v e d i d e a a b o u t w h a t " e n v i r o n m e n t a l i s t s " w e a r , a n d e n c o u r a g i n g c h a n g e A t t h e l a s t W i m b l e d o n m a t c h , E m m a W a t s o n s h o w e d o f f a s o p h i s t i c a t e d 1 9 9 9 l i n e n d r e s s . S h e s h o w e d t h a t i t e m s d o n o t h a v e t o g o " o u t o f f a s h i o n " a n d c a n s t a y c u r r e n t E v e n m o r e i m p o r t a n t l y , t h e p r e s s t o u r p a g e p r o m o t e d t h e b e n e f i t s o f v i n t a g e c l o t h i n g f o r t h e e n v i r o n m e n t 3 0 0 , 0 0 0 t o n n e s o f t e x t i l e s e n d u p i n l a n d f i l l ; m u c h o f w h i c h i s n o t b i o d e g r a d a b l e . U r b a n o u t f i t t e r s a r e a l s o a d a p t i n g a n d r e l e a s i n g v i n t a g e c l o t h i n g l i n e s t o c o n t r i b u t e t o w a r d s t h i s c h a n g e b y T a h i r a M o h a m e d b h a i T I P # 1 C h a r i t y s h o p s , u n i v e r s i t y v i n t a g e s a l e s a l l c o u n t D e p o p a l s o a l l o w p e o p l e t o s e l l t h e i r o l d c l o t h e s ; t h e c l o t h e s a r e o f t e n i n p e r f e c t c o n d i t i o n a n d a t g r e a t p r i c e s . A w i n w i n s i t u a t i o n , h o p e f u l l y r e d u c i n g t h e a m o u n t o f n e w c l o t h e s b e i n g p r o d u c e d a n d w a s t e d e v e r y y e a r T h e r e a r e a n d i n c r e a s i n g n u m b e r o f h i g h s t r e e t b r a n d s p r o m o t i n g e t h i c a l l y m a d e c l o t h e s e g H & M , M a n g o e t c I f y o u a r e s h o p p i n g o n l i n e , k e e p a n e y e o u t f o r d i s c l a i m e r s i n t h e d e s c r i p t i o n b o x o r t h e " a b o u t u s " p a g e s o n t h e i r w e b s i t e s H a v i n g t h e i d e a o f b u y i n g e t h i c a l l y i n t h e b a c k o f y o u r m i n d w i l l i n s i g h t m o r e m i n d f u l c h o i c e s w h e n s h o p p i n g T I P # 2 3

T I P # 3 T h e p o s s i b i l i t i e s t o t h i s a r e e n d l e s s A l w a y s c h e c k t o s e e i f t h e m a t e r i a l s a r e b i o d e g r a d a b l e , o r m a d e f r o m r e c y c l e d m a t e r i a l s M o r e c r e a t i v e l y , o l d m a t e r i a l c o u l d b e t a k e n t o a t a i l o r t o m a k e i t T h a t c o u l d b e f r o m g o i n g t o B o d y S h o p n e x t t i m e y o u n e e d a t o p u p , o r c h e c k i n g f o r t h e C r u e l t y f r e e s i g n w h e n g e t t i n g a n y b e a u t y p r o d u c t s T h e s e s m a l l s t e p s w i l l s u p p o r t t h e c h a n g e s b e i n g m a d e i n t h e i n d u s t r y , h o p e f u l l y m o v i n g t o w a r d s a c o m p l e t e l y e t h i c a l a n d c r u e l t y f r e e b e a u t y w o r l d T I P # 5 T I P # 4 F o r e v e r y p i e c e o f c l o t h i n g , t h i n k w h e t h e r y o u w o u l d w e a r t h e m a t l e a s t 3 0 t i m e s ( O n c e a w e e k f o r 7 m o n t h s ) A l s o , l o o k a t r e s t y l i n g w h a t y o u a l r e a d y o w n T h e c o n c e p t c h a n g i n g t h e w a y s o m e t h i n g i s w o r n i s a p o s s i b l e w a y t o b e m o r e s u s t a i n a b l e . T h e M e t G a l a 2 0 1 6 d r e s s m a d e a n i m p o r t a n t s t a t e m e n t t o t h e o p p o r t u n i t i e s r e c y c l i n g m a t e r i a l s c a n p o s s e s s A s p a r t o f t h e E c o A g e p r o j e c t , t h e d r e s s w a s m a d e f r o m r e c y c l e d b o t t l e s , h i g h l i g h t i n g h o w v e r s a t i l e r e c y c l i n g c a n b e . P l a s t i c b o t t l e s c a n t a k e 4 5 0 y e a r s t o d e c o m p o s e , w i t h 3 0 0 m i l l i o n t o n n e s b e i n g p r o d u c e d e a c h y e a r ; i t i s m o r e i m p o r t a n t t h a n e v e r t o g e t c r e a t i v e w i t h r e c y c l i n g i t a n d s t o p t h e b u i l d u p o f l a n d f i l l . E m m a W a t s o n a l s o i n t r o d u c e d t h e i d e a o f r e p u r p o s i n g w a s t e d m a t e r i a l , f r o m h e r s t u n n i n g E l l i e S a a b d r e s s . M a d e f r o m l e f t o v e r f a b r i c , t h e e l e g a n t g o w n u s e d o l d m a t e r i a l f o r a n e w l o o k

E t h i c a l s k i n c a r e i s o f t e n o v e r l o o k e d ; i n t e r m s o f a n i m a l t e s t i n g a n d c h e m i c a l s u s e d T h e B o d y S h o p c o n t r i b u t e s t o a m o r e e t h i c a l i n d u s t r y w i t h t h e i r E t h i c a l t r a d e p r o g r a m m e ; s u p p o r t i n g c o m m u n i t i e s w i t h h y g i e n e a n d s a f e t y a t w o r k O n t h e p r e s s t o u r p a g e E m m a W a t s o n w a s p i c t u r e d w e a r i n g t h e l i p a n d c h e e k s t a i n , m a d e b y t h e B o d y s h o p i n t h e i r c a m p a i g n f o r " E n r i c h N o t E x p l o i t " W e a r i n g t h e s a m e t h i n g t w i c e s e e m s u n h e a r d o f i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y , b u t t h e s u p p o r t E m m a W a t s o n g a v e t h e # 3 0 w e a r s c a m p a i g n p r o v e d t h a t c e l e b r i t i e s c o u l d c o n s i d e r t h e i d e a o f r e w e a r i n g a n i t e m S t a r t e d b y L i v i a F i r t h , t h e p u r p o s e o f t h i s c h a l l e n g e w a s t o g e t p e o p l e t o t h i n k a b o u t w h a t t h e y w e r e b u y i n g b e f o r e h a n d a n d t o s l o w d o w n t h e p r o c e s s o f " f a s t f a s h i o n " . I n t h e p r e s s t o u r , E m m a W a t s o n s h o w e d h e r s u p p o r t f o r t h e # 3 0 w e a r s w i t h h e r h a n d m a d e B u r b e r r y p u m p s .

"No matter how small you recycle, every little bit helps"

I actually came in the world of fashion quite late compared to some people I have done many things before choosing this career: I have been a hairdresser, a medical receptionist And when I got my son I was stuck at home So I decided to teach him how to saw I realised I loved using the sewing machine and this is how my fashion career started! I then decided to join the Leeds college of art in 2010 at 31 years old I was doing lots of clothes but it was mainly for my friends and family I only became serious about my brand when I joined York College from which I just graduated Above are models wearing Coolican's designs during Fashion Society UoY's Urban Event Photos by Jenna Walop

I can make things all sorts but i seem to stay with stretched fabrics I do a lot of crop tops by ripping fabrics I also love to rework denim Bleaching, washing, and playing takes more time but I like that kind of look 5

What are your favourite fabrics to work with?

COOLICAN

Hi Corinne, can you tell us about your clothes? So all my clothes are made with recycled or reusable fabrics I do festival clothes as welll as streatwear, things you can wear at all time For me it is very important that you will wear my clothes many times I don’t want a dress you wear once I want clothes you won’t waste and reuse constantly

How did you get in the world of fashion?

CORINNE

Finally do you have any advice for designers out there?

CORINNE COOLICAN

What are the difficulties of designing ethically? The only difficulty is storage because i do it all from home If someone gives me some clothes, I always see potential and I never say no so I’m probably a bit obsessive really Why sustainable fashion? My main reason for being ethical is that I truly love clothes who have a piece of history in them These clothes often have a roughness to them that I can play with It is much more challenging to make a old piece of fabric seem new and attractive than a new fabric and I find that stimulating How is your creative process? I like to upcycle, go to fabrics shops in leeds market, never buy more than 1 meter of fabric because i only do one garment from, each fabric Recycling is not a problem, I see fabric as fabric If its a tee shirt I’ll crop that, cut it all up and then join it all together to create a new fabric and cut my own pattern Do you think people should be more ethical? I don’t like to judge people Most of us are not educated enough on the issues of our ways of living Others do not have the means to live ethically Consumers shouldn’t be blamed I think the government should be making the changes People should be talked in school, especially fashion colleges and courses on how to be sustainable I think 80 percent of fabrics used in fashion courses should be sustainable

No matter how small you recycle, every little bit helps It’s less fabrics and waste And you must remember that there are so many ways to be sustainable It’s just a matter of starting and creating a positive change for our world If it’s not the government, then it’ll be high end designers and high profile figures of our society that will have to make the changes Smaller designers like me will not change things because we don’t have the influence high end designer have on people I also think big companies should get involved by donating fabrics to independent designers It would push people who do not necessarily have the means to be more sustainable 6

Who are your inspirations? I love Vivienne Westwood because of her rough edges, as well as the fabrics and patterns she uses Moschino inspires me because of how crazy he is And Christopher Mayben is great, all his clothes are very sustainable, he has made clothes out of old tents! And he collaborates with big brands such as Timberland which gives me hope about the future of ethical fashion Finally, not a designer but I love Van Gogh He was inspired by everything around him to do his art Nature’s beauty such as the sky or flowers, definitely also inspired me in my work

K A T Y W A T S O N The Sheepish Truth Behind Wool Production 9

5 7 11

NOTHING NEW BY RUTHIE RU W W W . N O T H I N G N E W B Y R U T H I E R U . C O . U K

By Dave Taylor

F E A T U R E D A R T I C L EYORK FASHION WEEK: ETHICAL FASHION SHOW 24

- 2 5I first became interested in novel fibres for clothing at the launch, in London, of the National Non Food Crops Centre which was to be based at York Science Park due to the amazing plant biotech going on here There was an (absolutely) fabulous man's jacket on display made from nettle fibre! It was pale blue with antique brass buttons, amazingly soft like linen to the touch, and beautifully cut by an Italian couturier In the absence of a 'proper' model, I was asked to wear The Full Nettle Jacket, as I called it, for a photo call which ended up on the front cover of Farmer's Weekly! Fame at last! I've been involved with 'Fashion City York' since its inception These days, I'm pleased that York Fashion Week is getting more funding and more interest, so this year I worked with a number of people to organise an 'Ethical Fashion Show' at Hotel du Vin on The Mount, as part of York Fashion Week As an elected Councillor for the Green Party in York, my aim is to draw attention to the waste and pollution in the fashion and clothing industry, but then look at alternatives and solutions to those problems: eg: re use and vintage fashion, novel fibres such as Tencel (eucalyptus) or pineapple fibre waste from the cultivation of the fruit, and moving away from cotton in favour of traditional fibres such as wool, linen, silk, hemp, even bamboo We had models parading the designs of two local couturiers and produce from local retailers who are particularly interested in ethical and sustainable sourcing Obviously, the re use of clothing can give it extra life Banshee Vintage had some cool stuff to show on the night and Janina 'Zebraspider' a scientist from the University of York told us more about novel fibres as well as her alternative side line in DIY hand made fashion and transforming clothes into punk designs

Anonymous interview about garment workers rights in Bangladesh

By Rebecca Gallon and Jenna Walop

MAN MADE TRAGEDY

G o t M i l k ? 27

COMPASSION IS THE FASHION I N T E R V I E W W I T H I N F L U E N C E R E M M A K O S T I C K B Y J E N N A W A L O P 29

Some supporters of hunting argue that it is necessary for pest control Not only is this false, with reports of foxes being captured and raised purely to be hunted, but the manner in which foxes are killed is extremely cruel and inhumane, something that would not be necessary if it was purely for ‘pest control’ There is absolutely no excuse for hunting and killing foxes In addition to the injustices inflicted on badgers and foxes, the war against our wildlife doesn’t stop there Pheasants, deers, hares, and more are also cruelly killed under the guise of ‘pest control’ or ‘tradition’ These animals need our help Luckily, there are things we can do to make a difference We can support charities such as The Badger Trust (https://www badgertrust org uk/) and The League Against Cruel Sports (https://www league org uk/) We can write to our local MPs and encourage them to speak out against wildlife cruelty (rachael maskell mp@parliament uk) We can spread the word by talking to our families and friends We can shout about this injustice on social media All of these actions will encourage the government to listen to us Hopefully, they will choose to reverse the badger cull, introduce a National Badger Vaccination scheme, properly enforce the hunting ban, and introduce a ban in Northern Ireland Let’s give these animals the voice that they deserve Lily Clarke Instagram: @lilyinspacedesigns 31

There are a number of potential solutions the killing of innocent badgers simply does not need to happen. Since 2004, it has been illegal to hunt foxes in England, Scotland and Wales. It remains legal in Northern Ireland. Despite this legislation, there is plentiful evidence that hunts are still regularly taking place across the country The concept of ‘trail’ hunting was invented after the hunting ban was brought in It is claimed to be a non lethal sport where a pre laid trail is followed instead of chasing a live fox However, this is commonly used as a cover up for illegal hunting, where foxes are still put through physical and mental trauma in the name of “sport”

B Y L I L Y C L A R K E Here in the UK, we are extremely lucky to have a wide and diverse range of native wildlife species Despite this, there seems to be a continued campaign of cruelty and violence against many of these species Badgers and foxes are two of these species that have been particularly persecuted in recent years These animals don’t have their own voice, so it is up to us to speak up on their behalf The badger cull was first commissioned back in 2013, and has since resulted in the inhumane killing of thousands of badgers Support for the cull comes from the belief that badgers spread bovine tuberculosis (bTB) to cattle, although there is no conclusive proof that the contribution from badgers is significant In fact, cattle to cattle transmission of bTB is far more significant than badger to cattle transmission: only 5 7% of bTB outbreaks are caused directly by badgers It is important to emphasise that we should not underestimate the significance and impact of the spread of bTB in farming communities However, there are a number of alternative methods to control the spread of bTB that are far less cruel and far more effective Badger vaccination has been shown to be far cheaper and more effective than culling badgers In addition, improved biosecurity on farms could help to reduce the spread of bTB through minimising contact between badgers and cattle

Rebecca Gallon Jenna Walop Beth Holloway Connor Drake Carluccio's York Zach Kaladze Emma Appleyard Liam Blake Lizzie Reffel Jemma Wong Charlie Cowap Raquel Bartra Andreana Rellou Abena Abban Tom Sheppard Bang Hair Salon Chris Woods Hair Salon Wackers Fish and Chips thanks to Cover photo by Emma Appleyard Back cover photo by Zachary Kaladze All proceeds go to Labour Behind The Label and Pigs In The Woods

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It's time for change