Fashion Intellect THOUGHT-PROVOKING
First Edition
IS FASHION MORE THAN FABRIC?
TABLE OF CONTENT
Letter from the Editor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Is it Menswear or Womenswear? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 What’s So Good About Fashion In Brooklyn? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Effortless in Paris. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Why Can’t I? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Is Fashion Above Diversity Issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Trends: The Enemy of Diversity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 In the Dark There Is Light: How Two Music Stars Saw OpportuniThat Others Ignored . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Attending a friend’s barbecue a few years back, I got asked the question, what’s so important about fashion? And before I got a chance to respond, my friend began to rattle off a million and one reasons why it wasn’t. While listening to his stereotypical answers, I realized that his understanding of fashion only scratched the surface. Instead of arguing, I wanted to help him. I’ve encountered many individuals who like my friend, have diminished fashion to a superficial industry. However, museums and fashion critics are contesting this notion as new fashion exhibits and their relevance are being curated across the world. The substance of fashion goes deeper than one can envision. This magazine is for those that want to go beyond the surface. If this magazine enables you to view fashion in a different capacity, it has accomplished one of its major objectives. It is my goal for this magazine to lead productive discussions and provide enhanced knowledge for each and every one of our readers. With fashion, MaShawn Jones 4
COLLECTION REVIEW
Is it Menswear or Womenswear? Palomo Spain Spring/ Summer 2018 Is Palomo Spain a menswear or womenswear brand? That’s the first question that comes to mind when describing this brand’s collection for first time viewers. In a day and age when the term gender is under constant scrutiny and redefining, how important is it to adhere to gender rules? Not to be confused with sex, gender is a social construct and thus is up for interpretation. Palomo Spain enjoys this embedded gender ambiguity as it presented Spring 2018 menswear. Shown in Madrid, Spain, Alejandro Gómez Palomo turned Hotel Wellington into his own hotel, “Hotel Palomo.” With a scene full of flowers and guest lined around the venue, Palomo’s collection had a glamorous and vintage feel. With a show of 66 looks, only a handful of women were casted in the show. A vast majority of the models were men who wore everything from 70’s style jumpsuits to full length dresses with high splits. Their make-up match those of a more
feminine aesthetic. Thus promoting gender confusion if not fluidity.What Palomo brings to the conversation of fashion is to remain yourself No matter what others might think; be comfortable in your own skin. His models exude a sense of confidence that they are here and it doesn’t matter what they are wearing. If someone sees a man dressed as a woman, so be it, but that’s their hang up not the wearer. With the amount of skin shown, it’s a homage to love the skin that one’s in. Starting the show was two male models in welltailored feminine mustard suits with matching bell-boy hats that begun the story of the guests (looks) inside the hotel. The first couple of looks after the bellhop were with modern aprons. Under these aprons were white button down shirts and black pants. This hinted at a standard uniform at a hotel. Following that, there was a baby blue two-piece outfit with the top having a deep v and the bottoms being an oversized harem shorts. Additionally, the model held dusters in his hands and this look referenced the “sexy” maid. As the show continued, the audience is introduced to more guests of the “hotel”. These guests are wearing garments that look like terry cloth outfits to play on the idea of a robe, to a one shoulder fringe floor length dress as a guest preparing to head out for the evening. Each look kept in theme of a person that could be found in any luxury hotel across the world. As fashion continues to break gender boundaries and revolt against gender norms, more designers like Palomo will present exhibitions that continue to press the envelope. Already amassing an Instagram following of over 78 thousand followers, Palomo is starting to gain traction within the fashion world at large. Even if this collection is something that goes beyond one’s comfort zone, there is something that can be appreciated by all. The emotions and thoughts this show provokes within oneself - whether negative or positive - should be discussed with others as it will lead to further deepening of our understanding of gender stereotypes.
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COLLECTION REVIEW
What’s So Good About Fashion In Brooklyn? Eckhaus Latta S/S 2018 If Brooklyn is (once again) the new trendiest borough in New York City, then it makes perfect sense that Eckhaus Latta Spring/Summer 2018 would host its runway here. Using 99 Scott, an industrial space for creatives, Eckhaus Latta produced 41 looks that sent shockwaves down the runway because it presented unconventional beauty compared to your average runway show. For this collection, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta introduced a multitude of multi-faceted elements to their presentation that included diverse in models, fabrics, and ending with their style in clothing. Opening the show was a gentleman’s black tailored suit with wide shoulders paired with cropped relaxed black pants and was by far the most formal look of the collection, yet it embodied the trendy vibe of Brooklyn. It’s a remake of a classic garment that has a fresh millennial perspective that could be
seen on a number of young celebrities at events such as the MET Gala or award shows. Other men tailored looks were cropped button down shirts in white and light blue, as well as a cropped sheer blue shirt that exposes the lower stomach (or in this case, abs) before going into a relaxed trouser. It could only be imagined that guys wearing these shirts either are very thin or want to show off their Apollo’s V they worked so hard for in the gym for. Many of the womenswear looks flirted with the idea of showing some skin. Whether it was a pregnant model on the runway showing off her beautiful baby bump, a crop top, a number of looks with multiple slits or, even, a sheer top or dress. When speaking to Vogue, Eckhaus and Latta explained that these pieces were meant to be layered with other pieces by the customers; although they looked just fine being translucent as fashion statements on their own. It presented a sense of airiness, lightness, and rawness that would ultimate go away if styled in any other way. Though there was a mixture of menswear and womenswear looks during the runway presentation, many of the garments were gender neutral / gender fluid. From the lace shirts and skirt that were seen on the male models, to the wide leg trouser and jackets on the females, they all could be mixed and matched with any of the models. This added a sense of freedom and could
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make people wonder, ‘does any gender really “own” a certain look or article of clothing?’ It should influence the audience to think about the larger issue at hand and the gender norms that we have assigned ourselves to. Where did it come from and why do we still subscribe to it today? Besides departing from a standard location in Manhattan for their collection, Eckhaus and Latta also casted a diverse group of models to exhibit their clothes. The models ranged from millennial to iGen and varied in weight and size. Their runway represented the real world and the real people that wear their clothes. It wasn’t about an ideal image that people need to attain in order to look like the models that grace the runway. Everybody had an opportunity to see someone that looked or was shaped like them which allows them to imagine themselves in these clothes. Doing something outside the norm in fashion comes with great risk. However, Eckhaus Latta rose to the challenge and presented a remarkable show that was anything but normal. It was a thought-provoking show that explored themes in fashion while giving the audience clothes that could actually be worn for the spring and summer of 2018.
COLLECTION REVIEW
Effortless in Paris
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Études Spring/ Summer 2018
hat happens when three French designers get together? They create a men’s collection that is not only effortless but inspired by their everyday surroundings. This is exactly what happened for designers Jérémie Égry, Aurélien Arbet, and José Lamali of Études. Their latest collection which used the city of Paris as their muse involved pieces - whether directly or indirectly - that paid tribute to the “City of our dream”. Opening their 35 look show was a thick striped relaxed linen short set. A simple outfit with a simple story? Not so fast; the blue/green stripe is a symbol of the Paris transportation system as the shades match each other perfectly. This wasn’t the only inconspicuous reference to Paris, as several looks later, there appeared to be a small blue/green rectangle with a black stripe on a pair of white overalls and later on an overall skirt set. This small subtle rectangle is more than just a design element; it refers to a Paris metro ticket. What a clever way to incorporate everyday items into complex
fashion design narratives. However, being inconspicuous is just one side of their design aesthetics as they created belts with the word Paris on them. This was a nice addition to their collection because it enhanced the visual presentation. With everything else being simple, it was refreshing to have a piece that boldly told the story. They also created a men’s white denim jacket with different scenes of Paris and translated that into a women’s bustier as well. Last but not least, they constructed a shirt with the word Paris going across the front and in the middle. Normally, that would be very distracting but somehow these designers made it work. Despite that fact that Études is a predominately men’s collection, they have begun to experiment with female clothing. In this latest collection, they blend their womenswear with menswear such as pairing a large oversize gray blazer with a short blue/green tube dress or denim on denim with the bottom fitting like men’s jeans. Womenswear looks 9
still exude a touch of femininity, with ease that maintains a balanced freshness. A returning theme for this label is the sense of freedom through the use of relaxed clothing. A perfect pairing for a leisurely stroll among the left bank of Seine river, or indulging on coffee and croissants in one of the famous St. Sulpice squares. Paris is calling, and Etudes has answered it with a friendly “Bonjour!�
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WHY CAN’T I 12
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DIVERSITY
Is Fashion Above Diversity Issues?
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n 1974, Beverly Johnson to The Fashion Spot diversity became the first black model report. While scrutinizing 94 to be featured on the cover major fashion shows which of American Vogue. Let that included 2,601 runway sink in for a minute. It took 82 appearances, they determined years for a woman of color to that each presentation finally have the opportunity to included at least two models be the face of one of the most of colors. While some brands influential fashion magazines in embraced diversity more than the world. If you want to bring others - Marc Jacobs had a it into another perspective, it’s show comprised of 55 percent been less than 50 years since diversity compared to the Row’s the “cover color barrier” has 13 percent - this provides a been broken. In a world where positive outlook for the world #alllivesmatters is a sly attempt of fashion. While some people to silence #blacklivesmatters will say, “But what about brands voices, it wasn’t so far in our like the Row, which only had 13 distant past, that all weren’t percent diversity?” Compared equal. Separate but equal might to their zero percent in Spring have been the law, but how of 2017, 13 percent is a vast equal can you be when you’re improvement and exhibits divided by your skin color? advancement within the brand. While the world continues to Beyond race, NYFW designers improve on social and racial employed more plus-size models issues, and fashion too has for the runway than the last 2 toyed with diversity issues. seasons combined. This spring However, fashion sometimes alone, 90 plus-size models forgets that diversity is not a fad walked the runway compared to or trend that requires a check in a miserable 26 for Fall 2017 and the box. 16 in Spring 2017. While this This Fall, New York Fashion makes up less than 4 percent of Week (NYFW) has proven the runway, this is significant as that diversity on the runway 67 percent of American women is a mainstay for the American are considered plus-sized. fashion community. As the If more women are becoming number of diverse models plus-sized, shouldn’t brands continue to improve year after strive to market to these new year, this past season has been potential buyers as well? With the most diverse yet, according
65 percent of female shoppers buying plus sized, it would serve the fashion community well to continue to present more plussized models on the runway; it surely can’t hurt their bottom lines or wallets. Watching shows like Project Runway and America’s Next Top Model, it’s clear that most of the designers aren’t used to dressing or using plus-sized models. In the latest season of Project Runway, the audience routinely sees designers worried about designing for women with real curves. If it’s not the standard 5’8” to 5’11” with a 34”-24”24” measurement, we are presented with a confessional from the contestant of how they never worked with plus-sized customers, thus lamenting about a potential chance to lose the contest. This makes you wonder if this should be something taught across fashion schools? In the current season, the plussized models always have a better fit with a designer, whom is plus-sized him or herself, because they fully understand how the body works. However, it’s important to acknowledge major brands and their allegiance to diversity as they serve as standards and role models for the fashion 19
world. Fashion exists on a multitude of planes and most individuals enthralled in the community, aspire to be part of the top tier. Look at the number of #fashionblogger or #fashiondesigners posts that circulate on social media daily. Individuals are positioning themselves to create a loyal following or becoming discovered by heavy hitters within the community. How discouraging would it be to watch a major fashion show and not see anyone who resembles your own race type? Fashion is made to encourage and express creative ideas, and it would be unfortunate to lose these ideas due to the casting of the show.
many years. The models range from all ethnic backgrounds, ages, and shapes. It’s gotten pass the point of counting the types of models because it’s naturally included - there is no reason to keep a report. As fashion critic Robin Givhan said once so elegantly: “We need to get to a point at which
designers such as Olivier Rousteing, journalists-advocates like Robin Givhan and British Vogue’s Edward Enninful, how many other minorities can the average fashion enthusiast name? One could probably count them on one hand.
We must look beyond the runway and examine how fashion as a whole is influenced by diversity. It would be hypocritical to slam the runway on diversity inclusiveness feels organic. And but not those behind the scenes. IS organic. That we get to a Models don’t cast themselves point where the shows feel like and fashion decisions are larger they are speaking to the wide than one person. Until everyone range of consumers, but without values diversity and inclusion, turning the runway into some and we will continue to have kind of human assembly line these conversations. in which one-of-each [or, in this case, two,-of each] is the standard.”
“We need to get to a point at which inclusiveness feels organic. And IS organic.”
Yet, sometimes, major brands should turn to regional fashion shows to see how diversity is shown on a smaller scale. Having covered and worked many regional fashion shows such as StyleWeek Northeast, these fashion presentations have incorporated diversity for
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While a major of diversity initiatives are focused on the runway, how about the fashion community in general? Does the lack of diversity stem from a deeper issue in fashion that has been overlooked? Besides
OP-ED
Trends: the Enemy of Diversity? When it comes to fashion magazines, there is always one article that consistently shapes closets across the globe. Do you know what it is? If you guessed must-have trends of the season, then you are correct. If you’re like me, whenever I find myself reading these articles, my brain goes to three places - what’s already in my closet, what I want to buy, and the I’ll pass pile. As my list of wants expands, I map out which stores (either online or brick and mortar) to purchase the latest trend. But have you noticed that sometimes by the time you arrive to get a certain item, they are either picked over, sold out, or worse, it seems everyone is wearing it? Does this make you wonder if trends only serve as a way to standardize us? Are trends killing our diversity? As I reflect on my own past experiences, closely following trends has always been a way to blend in. As a man that has gone through various wardrobe changes since high school, I was that kid who always wanted to wear the latest style and designer clothes to fit in. If the “it” designer was Tommy Hilfiger and my peers were wearing Tommy, then so was I. However, this lead to many awkward “I have that shirt too” or even more terrifying, a “who wore it better” contest situation. While there is nothing wrong with having the same shirt or style as someone else, I was uncomfortable in my own clothes and skin just to follow a trend. I didn’t want to be different! Instead of using fashion as a way to express myself, I used it and its trends to blend in with my surrounding horde. Do an exercise with me and go to Google and type in the words fashion trend; go ahead, I’ll wait. Now that you’re back, did you notice the numerous articles from magazines such as Elle, Vogue, GQ (for my men), to business magazine, Business Insider? If you happened to peruse these articles like I did, you realize that these articles all give you clothes/styles that you should wear. Whether it’s for a date, an interview, or a casual getaway with friends, follow these trends to a t and you’re guaranteed to look like the millions of subscribers who also read these articles. This leaves everyone with no personality, or personal twist but just another individual that understands the same trends as everyone else. Trends in fashion fulfills many purposes. One such purposes is to allow for groups of people to 21
recognize each other by certain styles. Yet, this ultimately suppresses individuals because to fit in, people have been trained to look the part. Just imagine that a skater preferred to dress in a polo shirt and chinos while skating. What reaction would this person receive when they presented themselves at a brand new skate park? There would be judgment from skeptics based on the individual’s look. As they aren’t following the standard “uniform” that society deems as proper for this group, they might have a hard time fitting in. Whether people say it or not, impressions are formed as soon as you see someone. Whether that initial impression is right or wrong, at least standing out for a fresh and appropriate approach to fashion shows individual character in a world where so many people are similar. Fashion champions individuality or there wouldn’t be street photographers feverishly snapping pictures of individuals with unusual aesthetic. But everyone doesn’t have to be extreme or try to be featured on sites like Women’s Wear Daily that showcase articles about standout looks and how to emulate them. Being an individual in fashion means you could mixing your favorite patterns or adding your own personal touch by pairing different accessories to an outfit you like. It’s the little details that will make people remember who you are. However, some people will disagree and say that trends and copying of trends forces innovation and diversity in fashion. Yet, my response is that while this sparks further new ideas, others still follow whatever the latest trend is; instead of diversifying their own ideas. Besides, once that trend becomes popular, most lines and collections will make their own version. Fashion is a way to express ourselves. While trends may help move fashion along, is running out to look like the model in the magazine really promoting individually? Or is it really a uniform that continues to hold people in their current system and position? I prefer to not be bound by others expectations based on my fashion, how about you?
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MUSIC AND CULTURE
In the Dark There Is Light: How Two Music Stars Saw Opportunities That Others Ignored 23
of major fashion houses campaigns including Balmain’s spring/summer 2014, and Dior’s Secret Garden campaign as well as a host of other fashion accolades, in 2017 Rihanna ventured out and created her own beauty line, Fenty Beauty By Rihanna. It took the beauty industry by storm! In a beauty world where darker skin wo/men have a difficult time procuring products that match their complexion, Fenty has addressed a market that has been traditionally underrepresented. With 40 shades of foundation and 30 shades of ew York Fashion Week Spring 2018 has skinsticks (foundation sticks), consumers have been dubbed the most diverse fashion positively embraced this line while the competition week for New York since its inception in quickly learned how non 1943. It seems that now inclusive their products on average there are at “We have this amazing emotional really are. least two models of color
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connection with customers who’ve
and a multitude of body But how hard is it for sizes coming down every never been able to find their shade of darker complexion to to runway. Fashion appears foundation before - women crying at the find beauty products? Do to be, finally, on right track [makeup] counter -it’s crazy to even think beauty experts know how for diversity and inclusion. to really work with darker about.” It’s valued more than the skin tones? trend of a few seasons. Perhaps my story below would resonate with Yet, what influences these changes and highlights many. As an undergrad, I spent part of studies these issues with familiarity? If we don’t credit those in the music industry (particular Hip Hop and involved in the Theatre and Dance department. I remember taking a stage make-up class and the R&B) for their role with influencing designers and the beauty industry on diversity and inclusion, then professor was having the most difficult time finding we are not acknowledging a major driving force for my base color and highlights. In the end, I had separate instructions on how to choose and apply propelling such an important change. my makeup then the rest of the class because of Before we knew her stage name, Robyn Rihanna my complexion. The feeling this parted in me was Fenty was just a girl born and raised on the island that not only was I different, but was I really an of Barbados. Now as a global superstar, the artist anomaly? In a sea of complexions where I’m not known as Rihanna, has not only provided some the fairest or the darkest, how do those who are of the best hits since debuting “Pon de Replay” in darker than me deal with this situation? 2005, but has successfully entered the world of While I learned how to apply makeup to all, I fashion and beauty. was given the task of assisting the darker skin Gracing over 70 magazine covers, being the face 24
actors because my classmates never learned the techniques because they were never required to master it. The vicious cycle was born, when those with the most need, were left to fend off for themselves. Enter Fenty. Fenty is about inclusion as Rihanna feels that makeup is part of self-expression. Nobody should be left out because the market doesn’t address products for their particular skin tone and skin type. This mindset has nurtured an emotional connection with the consumer. In an interview given to People magazine, Rihanna shared: “We have this amazing emotional connection with customers who’ve never been able to find their shade of foundation before - women crying at the [makeup] counter -it’s crazy to even think about.” In addition to Rihanna disrupting the beauty and fashion scene, hip hop artist Nicki Minaj is making her own pinkprint in fashion. No stranger to being front row at fashion weeks across the globe, Minaj recently won the Fashion Rebel Award at the 2017 Fashion Los Angeles Awards and was the face of Roberto Cavalli spring 2015 ad campaign. As a force to reckon with, Minaj has been vocal about the various issues she sees wrong within fashion. One of the largest and hottest topics she addresses is cultural appropriation. Whether it’s Giuseppe Zanotti naming 23 sneakers after her but not wanting to work with her or thanking designer Phillip Plein for practicing cultural appreciation, hip hop has afforded her the opportunity to effectively crossover into fashion. To it, Minaj brought a guided and a more diverse approach. “Thank you, Phillip Plein, for including our culture. Designers get really big and rich off our culture, and then you don’t see a mfer [edited] that look anything like us in the front row half the time. So let’s make some noise for Phillip Plein tonight,” proclaimed Minaj as 26
performed at the Plein S/S 2018 afterparty for his most recent show in NYC. Both Minaj and Rihanna are women in the Hip Hop industry that are using their influence to help those who haven’t had a voice. Growing up in an environment where they weren’t as privileged, they now have the power to right the wrongs for a new generation. They are smashing the barriers that many told them they shouldn’t cross. As diversity and inclusion grows in the fashion and beauty industry, it’s nice to believe that this would happen organically. However, we shouldn’t forget those that play a critical role in advancing this cause. Hip Hop and R&B isn’t the only genre to affect fashion and beauty but in recent years, we have seen it embrace fashion and fashion embrace it. While diversity and inclusion are becoming the norm, there is still work to do before articles like this will become a thing in the past.
“Designers get really big and rich off our culture, and then you don’t see a mfer [edited] that look anything like us in the front row half the time.”
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“Fashion is not necessarily about labels. It’s not about brands. It’s about something else that comes from within you.” - Ralph Lauren