Fashion Foundry Lookbook 2018

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Fashion Foundry

Edition 2.2


Lookbook Editors – Ciorstaidh Monk and Alan T. Dibble Designer Interviews Assistant – Nyree Troughton Art Direction and design – Design by Zag Photography – Bethany Grace Supporting Photography – Ciorstaidh Monk Make up and hair – Shaun Lavender and Fiona Park Models – Katy Bailey and Jack McQueen at Model Team


Fashion Foundry supports fashion designers based in Scotland Fashion Foundry delivers practical workshops, advice, bespoke mentoring, networking, online resources and sampling facilities to Emerging Designers, Changing Gear Businesses and the wider fashion community. Fashion Foundry supports Emerging Designer businesses with free studio space, sampling and production facilities. Designers are paired with a mentor and are given a tailored programme of support allowing them time, space and industry expertise to develop their brand. Changing Gear designers are further on in their businesses and have been paired with a team of fashion industry mentors who offer their experience to help the brands grow to the next level. Fashion designers in the wider community can attend practical workshops and inspirational designer talks, get free advice from fashion industry professionals including Fashion Foundry Director Alan Thomas Dibble and Producer Ciorstaidh Monk and access online resources and the sampling room. Fashion Foundry is a Cultural Enterprise Office production funded by Creative Scotland. Get in Touch Tel – 0333 999 7989 Email – @fashionfoundry @fashionfoundry


Diary 2017/18

“Print is beautiful but have a pdf version of your lookbook, press get sent so much, a pdf can be saved, shared.” Becky White PR, Workshop

May Emerging Designer Interviews, six new designers awarded places Designers move into Studio 236, South Block June Designers meet their mentors Designer catch-ups with Fashion Foundry July Tutorials with April Crichton for womenswear designers, Anika Höppel, Lionpalm and Squint. Personal Development Sessions with Lowri Potts, CEO Adviser for all designers Anika Finance session Martin Social Media session Changing Gear applications open


UKFT workshop, Edinburgh delivered in partnership with Textiles Scotland Herald Fashion Awards – Squint wins ‘Best Designer Talk with Karen Mabon Online Newcomer’, 2017 alumni Rachel Changing Gear Designers meet their McMillan wins ‘Best New Sustainable mentors Business’, Changing Gear business Emerging Designer Group Session Isolated Heroes wins, ‘Best use of Online 1:1's with Claire Smith, Scottish Enterprise Marketing’ Finance and Branding Sessions Scotland Re:Designed showcase and Designer Talk with Sally-Ann Provan awards – Pilot Programme alumni Jennifer Martin mentor session, London Kent wins, ‘Menswear Award’ Kirsty mentor session Tutorials with Marion Parola, Bespoke Kathryn working on bag prototypes in Atelier for Rory, Kathryn and Ellie. machine room December September Crowdfunding workshop with Kirsty visits William Chambers at London Kaye Symington Fashion Week Showrooms Manufacturer Visit, Alloa FF visit Burberry ‘Here We Are’ Exhibition, Kathryn mentor session London Ellie mentor session, Dundee Rory wins ‘i-on Breakthrough Award’ Ellie and Martin IP session Open Studio night FF designer catch-ups FF Designer Catch-ups January October Planning for a photoshoot Workshop Anika go/see visit, Paris with I'll be Your Mirror Designer Talk with Instmrnt How to Launch your Label, Fashion Designers working on garments for Foundry Talk to 3rd and 4th year students Scotland Re:Designed at ECA Trends presentation by Fiona Chautard Rory Hutton at Top Drawer/Trade show and Textiles Scotland Kathryn go/see trip, London Fabric delivery for Martin Branding sessions August

Designers ordering final fabrics Martin mentor session, London M.G Gabriel article in The National Finance sessions & VAT sessions Kirsty mentor session February Designers working on final garments Crowdfunding Sessions Social Media Sessions Photoshoot, SWG3 Power of PR workshop with Becky White Martin property advice session Kirsty and Ellie go/see trip, Paris Alan at the Palace, Commonwealth Fashion Exchange March Final mentor sessions Anika Range Planning session Rory licensing Session Lookbook in production Squint feature in The National Exhibition prep April Exhibition in The Review Gallery, The Lighthouse, open all month Pop-up shop and series of designer talks throughout exhibition Lookbooks in the post!

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Workshops & Designer Talks

Focused workshops and designer talks that inspire. Come together with other designers every month to learn from experts and share knowledge. Designer Talk with Karen Mabon Designer Talk with Sally Ann Provan Designer Talk with Instrmnt UKFT Masterclass with Textiles Scotland Crowdfunding Workshop with Kaye Symington Planning for a Photoshoot with I'll be Your Mirror Power of PR with Becky White PR Costing and Pricing with Fiona Chautard


“Have a concept in a shoot, it keeps you working till the end, keeps momentum up and keeps everyone excited. If there is no end-point you lose focus.�

I'll Be Your Mirror, Designer Talk


Anika Hรถppel


Anika Höppel discovered the fine balance between creative expression and commercial in her capsule collection through range planning with her mentor. Tell us about your brand Womenswear that has a slightly unusual twist and a certain oddness to it that adds intrigue; little details, elasticated cuffs on a blouse or functional elements in something that is more formal. How have you got on with your mentor & what did you learn from them? Mairi has been really supportive, realistic, she’s got that commercial eye and that experience with her own brand. She has also been a voice of reason when I’ve been trying to do too much. She understands my aesthetic and has been really supportive of that. What has been the highlight? My branding session with Giles was one that stands out someone trying to get to the essence of your brand and working out what makes it special. Biggest lesson you’ve learnt? If you really want to do something there is a really good support network that you can tap into. Plans for 2018 Deliver capsule collection that’s really well-made and something I can really be proud of, something I can feel is really on point. Mentored by Mairi McDonald, Mairi McDonald.




Kirsty Frew rediscovered her creativity and transformed her brand identity with the help of branding and social media. How would you describe your customer? My work is female centred; someone who wants to express a more feminine side to their personality, they're not afraid of their femininity and they see that as a power. With everything she does she wants to be immersed in that experience. How have you developed over the program? I now understand that true luxury is found between the controlled and uncontrolled and I am continuing to develop manufacturing that makes room for craft. What advice would you give to yourself this time last year? Don’t over-analyse yourself and trust your own instinct. And exercise your creative brain a little bit more in your day-to-day. What’s next for you? I can recognise my brands identity now, so now I’ve found that I’ll just keep going and continue to grow the furthest I can. Mentored by William Chambers, William Chambers Millinery.


Kathryn Fuller


Kathryn Fuller is all about print. With a more defined brand positioning and a focus on accessories, Kathryn’s poppy colours appear on tote bags, coin purses and notebook covers. Tell me about your work Print-led, modern and graphic. What have been the biggest changes? Planning, breaking it all down into achievable chunks, rather than letting it overwhelm me. The direction of the brand, when I came here I was just making things for the sake of making, so I’ve developed where the range is going. I’ve learned more about approaching people and not being afraid to ask for help. This could be a real company, a real product, even though it’s still getting made in my loft, it doesn’t have to be finished that way, it doesn’t need to have that appearance. What have you learned this year? Knowing there are people out there who want to help, or be involved, there’s a network of people who are keen to help you. Mentored by Fiona Chautard, Trends Radar.

"Think, who is your customer? You'll have an actual customer and an aspirational customer. Figure out what they are reading: The Guardian? Instagram? Show the right product to the right customer." Karen Mabon, Designer Talk




“To get best results at trade shows: preshow mail-outs, countdowns on social, advance publicity- show brand personality� UKFT Seminar with Textiles Scotland

"Business Plan – do one every so often. Just have a plan, something for yourself. Or a list that’s going to see you through the next 18 months." Sally Ann Provan, Designer Talk


M.G Gabriel

With the help of his mentor, Martin Scroggie simplified his range plan and reworked his fabric choices. Why did you choose to turn your creative practice into a brand? Because I always wanted to, I love doing my own thing – anything I’ve ever done and everything I’ve created I’ve always wanted to do something with it so this was the perfect opportunity. Create your own life rather than living by someone else’s. What have you overcome this year? I think I’ve overcome my shyness when it comes to my brand, I feel more confident talking about it than I did before and I feel that I’ve also managed to break down the barriers that have been in my way, for instance, manufacturing and speaking to buyers. Encourage the courage! What were the biggest lessons you’ve learned? Planning and organising, I’ve learned to hold back a bit more (with the size of the collection) - don’t overwhelm people. Highlight? Having John – as a mentor has been a major highlight, it’s hard to pin down a man who is so in demand – he’s been very reassuring. Mentored by John Ray, Thomas Pink.


Rory Hutton


Rory Hutton refocused the essence of his brand and unleashed a new surge of creativity and drive. Tell us about your brand I really enjoy drawing and print, it’s anti-minimalism. Colourful, individual, quirky, playful. Playful is my favourite word. What’s changed this year? My direction has changed, I’m starting to present myself more as an illustrator as well as a fashion designer - my perspective has changed and how I’d like to go forward with it. I probably know the customer better than I used to. Their alter ego – that’s what I found when I’ve met customers, when people buy things, that is the recurring theme, they wear suits maybe all week and then it’s maybe the weekend when they become artists. What advice would you give to yourself this time last year? Be braver with contacting people. Annoy people more. You don’t lose either way, if they’re not interested they don’t care anyway! Mentored by Kevin Harding, Brand Consultant.




Ellie Vallely has made new connections resulting in collaborations and links to manufacturing. Tell us about your brand I reference workwear and skate stuff in the detailing and the fit and the 1980s always influences my graphics. How have you developed over the program? It’s forced me to take things seriously. It's given me confidence in the overall business and confidence in my ideas. How have you got on with your mentor (Samantha) & what did you learn from them? Really good - she's the best! I gained confidence in putting myself out there and not feeling bad about pestering people (stylists etc). What was the biggest lesson you've learnt? Perseverance. Mentored by Samantha Paton, Isolated Heroes.

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Changing Gear Changing Gear Designers are paired with Fashion Industry Mentors who support their business to grow to the next level.

Hilary Grant X Johnstons of Elgin Luxury Scottish knitwear label creating staple winter accessories with craftmanship, style and distinct personality. HILARY GRANT is a knitwear studio and design partnership by Hilary Grant and Robert Harvey founded in 2011, based on the remote archipelago of Orkney. Mentoring by Nick Bannerman and the team at Johnstons of Elgin has enabled Hilary Grant to consider the brands long term goals, discuss and put into work plans to develop their wholesale business in different international markets as well as looking at their cost structure. "Nick was both very honest and encouraging and was able to offer guidance in all aspects of growing our business from production, sales and marketing, product development to business development. We're looking forward to our follow up sessions and drawing from his passion and expertise in knitwear and business."

Isolated Heroes X Alex Begg Sassy Sequins & Luxury Faux Furs. Statement Pieces Made in Scotland Samantha Paton started her label in 2012 and has grown a loyal following around the world by making them feel a confident version of themselves whatever their shape and size. The challenge for Isolated heroes was to keep up the momentum and deliver growth to take their brand to the next level. Samantha was mentored by Ian Laird and the team at Alex Begg who spent time going through her wholesale strategy, finances and growth challenges. After spending a day in almost every department at Alex Begg, Samantha came away excited about the future. The confidence boost that the mentor session delivered allowed her to realise there are simple ways to organise her time and finances that can have a real impact.

“It was honestly the most insightful day I have had in years! I feel challenged and excited again for the future and have a clear strategy for our next steps. It was the boost that I needed to reignite my passion for the brand.�

Samantha Paton, Isolated Heroes


Business Support Professional Experience and practical advice. Cultural Enterprise Office Creative Mentors share their experience and Business Experts give practical advice. Together, they will help you understand the fashion business and give you the equipment to be successful in that industry.

Fashion Foundry Team


Open to all fashion designers based in Scotland, Fashion Foundry is here to help you progress in your fashion venture. Get in touch for advice ranging from pricing to approaching a retailer, manufacturing to networking.

Gillian Caughey specialises in helping creative and purpose driven businesses understand the money side of their business.

Brand and Branding

Fiona Chautard’s expertise includes market trend analysis, fashion forecasting and product development.

Fashion and Retail Social Media

Giles Etherington, owner of brand consultancy, Brand Satellite, offers brand creation, development and communication services to clients all over Scotland, helping those who have either never approached their business as a brand before, or are not making the most of the brand they have. Crowdfunding Kaye Symington will help support you to craft the perfect campaign page, from your video to your rewards, to how you sell your project. She will help you understand how to get people excited about your campaign, from your audience to press and relevant influencers.

(IP) Legal Philip Hannay is particularly interested in inquiries around business start-up, intellectual property trademarking, licensing and franchising, contracting, dispute resolution, acquisitions and disposals. Property Chris Biddlecombe’s expertise includes the process of acquiring and developing creative space, landlord negotiation, leases and contracts, project management, operation of creative spaces, health, safety and insurance in creative practice, and development of collaborative arts projects across professional disciplines.

Sophie Amono has worked closely with some of the biggest brands in contemporary fashion communications including Dazed Digital, The Times & NOT JUST A LABEL. VAT Angela Bedi can advise on a broad range of issues and has particular expertise in both the charitable and creative industries.

British Fashion Council Promotes British fashion throughout the UK and internationally through support, events and showcases.

Sampling Room

Scotland Re:Designed Showcasing, exhibitions, annual awards and runway show, calendar of industry events and business support for fashion, accessories and interior design. Textiles Scotland Membership organisation that runs workshops nationally and promotes Scottish design online and at showcases. UKFT UKFT provide designers with practical support, export advice and funding for International tradeshows.

Construct patterns, sew prototypes and produce short runs. Designers can book time in the Fashion Foundry Sampling Room for free. Access industrial sewing machines, overlockers, steam press, pattern cutting tables and space for photography. Get in touch to book.

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Online Resources Our online resources are a collection of insights from designers and professionals working in the Fashion Industry. We are always updating our resources. Find more here

An Introduction to Retail Approaching Fashion Retailers and Buyers Attending Design and Fashion Trade Shows Fashion Sector Overview Finding and Approaching Manufacturers and Suppliers How to Cost and Price Your Work How to Prepare for a Sales Meeting Know Your Fashion Customer Learning to Run Your Own Business Selling at Trade Events Top Manufacturing Databases Top Markets for Fashion Top Networks for Fashion Top Resources for Fashion What’s the difference between cost, retail, trade and wholesale price? Where can I access machinery to manufacture my samples?

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International Reach

Our Funders Creative Scotland

Emerging Mentors

Fashion Foundry supports designers in Scotland but our reach stretches across the globe.

Mairi McDonald – Mairi McDonald Fiona Chautard – Trends Radar John Ray – Creative Director, Thomas Pink Kevin Harding – Brand Consultant William Chambers – William Chambers Millinery Samantha Paton – Isolated Heroes Changing Gear Mentors

Our designers have customers in

Sourcing from

Australia New Zealand England Ireland Wales Austria Germany Sweden USA Canada Malaysia Italy Iceland Scotland Japan South Korea

Italy Scotland Outer Hebrides Taiwan Yorkshire Leicester Dundee Holland Nepal France

Manufacturing in Como, Italy Hawick, Scotland London, England Glasgow, Scotland Edinburgh, Scotland Peterhead, Scotland Porto, Portugal Shetland, Scotland

People access our Online resources from Glasgow London Edinburgh Orkney New York Eindhoven Dublin Cape Town Dallas Chicago Melbourne Lille Paris Hong Kong Krakow Los Angeles Oban Toronto Soeul

Nick Bannerman & the team – Johnstons of Elgin Ian Laird & the team – Alex Begg Special thanks to Cultural Enterprise Office team Kat Loudon and Kirsty Geddes – Design by Zag Bethany Grace – Bethany Grace Photography Shaun Lavender – MUA Fiona Park – MUA Model Team Katy Bailey – Model team Jack McQueen – Model team Jackie McNally – Creative Scotland Helena Ward – Creative Scotland Chris Hunt – Scotland Re:designed Shauna McGregor – Scotland Re:designed Caitlin Miller – Scotland Re:designed Jaki Love – Textiles Scotland Kimberley White – Textiles Scotland Laurian Davies – UKFT Paul Alger – UKFT Louise Rusk – Rusk & Rusk Stuart & Kirsty – I'll be Your Mirror Kaye Symington – Paved with Gold Becky White – Becky White PR Pete & Ross – Instrmnt Karen Mabon – Karen Mabon April Crichton – La Fetiche Sally Ann Provan – Sally Ann Millinery Piotr Pyrchala – Birds of Prayers Barbra Kolasinski – Barbra Kolasinski Marion Parola – Bespoke Atelier Raymond Strachan – The Lighthouse Erika Silverman – The Lighthouse Wasps Studios

Cover: Lionpalm

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