Features
The Mirror | Week of Nov. 17, 2010
Brew Master: Japanese "Tallboys"
Page 10
Kirin Ichiban Wins Blind Taste Test for Japanese Beers
By Jorge Espino Features Columnist
Kirin Ichiban:
Americans do bourbon and burgers. Jamaicans do rum and meat patties. The French do wine and cheese. And the Japanese do sake and giant yellow fin tuna. Few people, however, would associate brewing with the Japanese. There’s Japanese beer out there that rivals many of the inexpensive beers that can be bought in the “tallboy” or “bomber” size. Those readily available in town are Kirin Ichiban, Sapporo and Asahi. As I did last week, I painstakingly sampled all three to determine which is best. After several hours of research, I determined that Kirin Ichiban wins best taste, body and aroma. The soft aroma is pleasant, but difficult to point out. It smells a bit creamy and sweet. The barley is slightly noticeable, but I couldn’t put my finger on the exact smell. I did a bit of research and found that Kirin Ichiban uses a process they call “Premium First Press.” Ok, now it’s time for some nerd jargon. The only way I could explain this is that they don’t sparge their wort. This means that, after they boil the barley (mash) they filter out the sugary water (wort). Many recipes call for about 50 percent more water to be filtered through the mash in order to completely remove all of the sugars from the grain and increase yield. This process is known as “sparging.” Kirin apparently doesn’t do this and, according to them, it results in a more flavorful beer. Although sparging is an important step in many fine breweries, it is also
• Best Taste • Best Aroma • Owned by AnheuserBusch • Brewed in California
Sapporo:
• Best Looking Can shaped like a Guinness "tulip" pint glass • Brewed in Ontario
Contributed Photo
done to cut alcohol content (gravity) and increase yield. So many bad, watery beers take this step too far. My second choice was Sapporo. You’ve certainly tried this one if you’re a fan of the Fin Sake Bombs in town. There’s not too much to say about this one except for, “Sweet can!” It’s shaped like a Guinness “tulip” pint glass. A+ to the packaging and marketing people. Other than that, it’s just beer. Not bad beer, but nothing different or
Asahi:
• Super Dry • Great with delicatetasting food • Owned by Molson • Brewed in Toronto
spectacular. It’s certainly better than most other inexpensive tall boys though. Last and definitely least is Asahi. The bottle says, “Super dry” and, “The beer for all seasons.” I’m not too sure about the second claim, although I do agree that it is extremely dry. The taste is gone as soon as you’re done with your sip. I like to savor my beer, not struggle to remember what it tastes like. This beer is great with delicate-tasting food. I had this one with a thick yellow fin tuna steak. I cooked it rare and rubbed it with sesame seeds and pepper corns. It didn’t overpower the fish, so I was happy. Interestingly enough, Kirin is owned by AnheuserBusch and brewed in California. Sapporo is brewed in Ontario so they can deceivingly label it as an import. Asahi is owned by Molson and is brewed in Toronto. This, however, is not uncommon amongst many “imports.” Just to name one, the Becks we buy here is brewed in the States. All in all, these beers are not a bad choice when it comes to tallboys. The price is right, the size is ample, and the taste isn’t bad. Why not try something different next time you grab something from the singles and 40s fridge at the liquor store?
The Beach Side Deli: Just As Good As Never Never Land
Deli Owner Yanni Taxiltaridis Opens Up About Clam Jam, Customers and Being a Big Kid By Drew Fauser Contributing Writer
back then. The police were a lot cooler too. They would just stand there and watch, not like today.” Hungry after a long day of partying in the sun, Yanni and his friends Located on Fairfield Beach Road, Beachside Deli and would walk across the street and grab a quick sandwich at Pizza is very popular among Fairfield University students. what is now his own Beach Side. It doesn’t look like anything special, not too big, no fancy “I always knew I wanted to own this deli.” sign outside to attract a crowd. It’s just a little awning covFor him it's not about the money, it's all about the ering a small porch with one table and about five chairs relationships he makes. And Yanni really does know his sitting outside providing a view of the Grape. What is it customers. then that attracts so many people to this deli? The loca“You, what’s goin’ on, what can I get for you Mr. Stetion may be close to the beach houses, a convenience for vens?” the seniors, but they’re not the only Beach Side goers. “Not much, just a bacon egg and cheese today.” On a Wednesday morning the place is empty, but “You want the egg whites and extra bacon?” Yanni Taxiltaridis is sweating while rushing around beNow in his thirties, Yanni works by himself in the hind the counter. His muscular tanned arm opens one of mornings while his cashier, Jeanine, is taking classes at the large silver pizza Sacred Heart. She’s from Fairfield ovens and a waft of too and familiar with many of steam and scent of the people in town, including the “I enjoy when the kids come in garlic hits the air “townie” bouncer at the Grape, who revealing a bubjokingly accuses one of his here. It keeps me young. That’s what Yanni bling tray of lasagna. young customers of making out with Unsatisfied, Yanni this weekend. It’s around eleven, her I am, a big kid.” closes the door and blonde hair up in a bun on the top of takes a second to wipe her head and Doughnut Inn coffee his face with his shirt in hand. exposing a tattooed “You might have to make some torso. Yanni has a deliveries for me today" Yanni strong, tough looking breaks the news, “that bozo won’t body with a friendly face shadowed by a Yankee hat. answer his phone but you might need some help.” His tough exterior may be owed to his four years of “Its fine Mike will do it with me, I gotta grab him from UConn football, in which he received a full scholarship his house though.” four years ago. As a student he was forced into becoming Jeanine is going off to deliver the lasagna Yanni a sociology major but knew he wasn’t going anywhere had been cooking earlier in the morning, along with with that. He took some business classes and minored in another couple of steaming trays. These are all part of history. the lunches he delivers every day to a pharmaceutical As a kid, Yanni grew up in Fairfield. His father owned company in town. a diner where Yanni’s nine- year-old hands would scrub Unlike many Fairfield residents who resent the rowdy dishes in a small, loud kitchen for no pay. He would watch Fairfield University students, they’re Yanni’s favorite part his very Greek father with a broken accent talk to cusof the job. His big body bobs a little when he laughs about tomers, sometimes for hours. His father was a very hard last year’s Clam Jam incident. A very drunk girl wobbled worker and didn’t understand the whole going to college into the deli demanding a tuna melt. Yanni informed her and playing football deal Yanni was into. the grill was already turned off and the belligerent girl Starting when he was seventeen, every spring when started yelling he was a bad businessman. Fairfield Beach point is filled with college students, kegs “I didn’t care, I told her to get out,” he said while laughand red solo cups, Yanni could be spotted sharing a drink ing. with Fairfield University students. Clam Jam was an event. The next thing he knew the girl had thrown a beer can Yanni and his friends would count down the days until right at him. Clam Jam. “It was bigger than you would ever imagine Yanni’s favorite part of the job is spending time with
- Yanni Taxiltaridis
Peter Caty/The Mirror
Yanni Taxiltaridis at the Beach Side Deli.
the students and the freedom he’s allowed to have. He visited Las Vegas during Halloween weekend. Football was a large part of his life in college, but it wasn’t what he ever planned on doing for the rest of his life. Rather than morning football practice and running sprints, Yanni stays active by going to Jujutsu class. He leaves work every Wednesday at 11:45 a.m. and goes down the street to a gym owned by his friend. Since graduating college, Yanni has always been somewhat free. He packed up his bags and flew to Greece where he spent six months. He didn’t have a job or any responsibility here. When his pockets were feeling a little light, he’d pick up the phone and call his Grandpa for some money. As he busily fills orders, he talks about the great times he’s had and plans on continuing to have. He’s happy to go on deliveries and share a beer with customers, or really friends. He plays Beruit and even makes plans to meet graduates from two years ago in the city. “I enjoy when the kids come in here. It keeps me young. That’s what I am, a big kid.”