Issue 2 - The Digital Issue by FACTION Magazine

FACTION

THE DIGITAL ISSUE

he second issue is finally here, albeit a tad overdue but we did it! For our second venture we decided to turn our attention to and focus on the digital, and we’ve got a lot to talk about. Wether it be embracing the beauty and simplicity of modern iPhone-ography as Robbie Wayward has in our interview with him on page 34 or celebrating this seasons digital fashion trend. South-west based artist Vector 33 showcases his ‘16-BIT Retouch Project’and challenges the modern controversial woes of photographic retouching, and our creative team have been emancipated to bring you an affluence of editorial content to feast your hungry eyes upon! FACTION is of course somewhat adolescent, but we continue to grow with your positive help and support. I’d like to thank everyone that submitted content for the upcoming issues and look forward to sharing them with you! - Even though we’re not a conventional ‘fashion magazine’ I’ll leave you with a comment I heard whilst looking through some magazines in a newsagent the other day that made me laugh.

“Ere! All these people come in and buy all them fashion magazines but you never see ‘em wearing any of it down ere does ya.” Editor-in-Chief - Mike Raven

INSIDE: Editors Letter - 3 Masthead - 5

The Evolution of Streetstyle - 16 Tales of a Wayward Boy - 34

Destroy All Monsters - 6 Deco - 46 When Opposites Attract - 66 A Stranger in the City - 92 Awash With Colour - 108 LDN REDUX - 102

T A

Digital Prints - 20 16 Bit Retouch Project - 24 E-book VS Paper - 44 The Rise of Fashion Film - 60 4 Must See Fashion Fashion Films - 62 Net.GIF - 64 Art Drive - 88

A Hidden Beauty - 116 Viral Beauty - 126 One Less Lonely Girl - 128 Bubblegum Bitch - 130 Off To The Races - 132 Swagger Jagger - 134 Lets Go To The Beach - 136 Emotional Brilliance - 138 Real Techniques - 139 March Hair - 140 Aroma Therepy - 146

VOL:I / ISSUE2 Editor-In-Chief: MIKE RAVEN Beauty Editor: MATTHEW SHEATHER Features Editor: GEORGIA BEY Cover images by David Sheldrick www.davidsheldrick.com CONTRIBUTORS: Lee Ewings, Mac Logunz, Lara Stephens, Rebecca Hand, Andy Houghton, Katy Bennett, Pablo JonesSoler, Josh Rocherster-Greet, Robbie Wayward, David Sheldrick, Vector 33, Haydn Williams, Zoey Roberts, The creative team at March Hair, Nicola James, Wawa Lai, Caca Lee All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the Editor. The views expressed in FACTION Magazine are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff.

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DESTROY

ALL MONSTERS Photography and styling by ANDY HOUGHTON Models VINCENT AZZOPARDI LEWIS HOLLAND CLARKE ADAM STORR JACE MOODY DINO KOSTA

Leather Biker jacket and boots from New Vintage

Wrist cuffs - photographers own

Studded leather biker jacket from New Vintage, underwear by 2(xist)

The

EVOLUTION of

STREET

STYLE Words by Georgia Bey

n the 1960s Yves Saint Laurent proclaimed that he was inspired by what the young people of London were wearing on the streets. This revolutionised the fashion industry, and since then, Street Style has been informing fashion from the ground up. Even now, 50 years on, Street Style continues to be at the epicentre of fashion, with the internet allowing everyone and their dog to have a ‘Street Style’ blog and snap interesting styles, good or bad, from the sublime to the “cor, blimey!”. A lot has changed since the birth of the mini-dress; advances in technology have changed the world as we know it, and there are no signs that we are slowing down in our quest for more and more fantastical gadgets. The 1960s may have had free love, but we have 3G. So, if our generation’s contribution to the history of mankind is technol-

weeks has opened up the world of fashion to the masses like never before. Fashion shows are highly exclusive events, where only the chosen few are welcomed, but now the whole world is invited, and can watch every detail, while eating their own body weight in pasta bake in the comfort of their own home (just me…?). The fact is that fashion is more accessible than it has ever been, and in an industry where the goalposts are constantly being moved, Technology has Street Style has to also undoubtedly evolve too – and it is. changed the face of fashion. E-tail ven- The rise of websites tures are more suc- like LookBook.nu cessful than ever has enabled ordinary with sites like Net- people to showcase A-Porter.com and their everyday wardASOS cashing in on robes by uploadour culture of con- ing pictures of their venience – because best outfits and best who doesn’t need to poses. Operating an buy a neon tweed ‘invite only’ system Lanvin skirt or a star helps to keep unprint Sonia Rykiel fashionable riff-raff blouse at 4.30am? out, sure, but some Live streaming of of the outfits are still new season collec- extremely questiontions direct from able, but I suppose the world’s fashion that’s to be expected;

ogy and the internet, maybe it is time that Street Style moved over and let something more modern take over for a while. Youth culture has changed as much as technology has, with teenagers seemingly preferring BBM and Facebook to actually venturing outside and socializing with their friends faceto-face. Street Style doesn’t reflect this anti-social technology obsessed behaviour; the style is no longer on the streets, it’s sat in front of the computer.

what’s fashion without a little ‘What the hell were they thinking?’ every now and then? What happens though, when you can’t control who signs up, when every fashionable Tom, Dick and Harry decides to join and have a go? Enter dynamic and increasingly hip blogging platform Tumblr. While it may be best known for GIFs of cats and a borderline unhealthy obsession with the 90s, Tumblr is fast becoming a sort of online fashion Mecca for bored teenage boys and girls who want the world to see their style prowess. With our growing need for instant results (i.e. buying a new Sonia Rykiel blouse at 4.30am, or whenever else the urge may strike you) it doesn’t come as much of a surprise that rather than going to a fashionable spot and waiting for a street style blogger to snap them, these internetsavvy fashionistas are taking matters into their own hands.

The very best ‘outfit shots’ have the potential to be reblogged or ‘liked’ thousands or even millions of times, and who doesn’t love that sort of attention? Similar to LookBook’s ‘hype’ rating system, this enables you to see who appreciates your style, but it goes one step further. Tumblr gives you the ability to follow those who ‘like’ your look, viewing a blog can be like having a very personal glimpse into a person’s life and personality; in short, you have the chance to get to know fellow fashion fans through your shared love of, oh, I don’t know, 90s flatform shoes and everything tie-dyed. It’s sort of like a modern networking tool for the fashion focused.

with Topshop, Terry Richardson and Elle Magazine. Nick Knight’s fashion film hub SHOWstudio has a Tumblr platform, which features ‘guest curations’ from Tumblr’s finest fashionistas. It says a lot about how far the industry has come in general that names unknown to the wider fashion community are being chosen to collaborate in this way.

Youth culture and fashion has fascinated and helped to inform the fashion world for decades. From street style bloggers, a new way of presenting youth fashion has emerged. Tumblr gives everyone the opportunity to show the world their style, from the comfort of their own bedroom, no less – and the fashion world is definitely This evolution giving this new dedefinitely isn’t be- velopment the ating ignored in the tention it deserves. fashion world; Mu- Who knows where gler’s Nicola For- it will go next? michetti and the inimitable Stefano Images: Lookbook.nu Gabanna both have Tumblr accounts of their own, along

DIGITAL

DAZE Digital prints populated a majority of the shows from the designers that showcased at LFW and London Collections MEN. We have chosen our favourite designers that embodied the digital daze.

FACTION Trend Watch

0s and 70s glamour shone through Holly Fulton’s SS12 collection, the inspiration for which was ‘From Vegas to Margate’. Tropical, fun and unashamedly party-girl chic, the collection was a continuation of Fulton’s signature use of graphic prints and art deco detailing. Zebra, checkerboard and swirling deco prints were the focus of the collection, breathing life into 70s inspired shapes like fluid jumpsuits and slinky party dresses. The garments had all the razzle dazzle of the City of Sin, infused with the quin-

tessentially British sense of humour that Fulton’s design are known for. The collection is made for a woman with “A keen eye on the arcades, indulging in the plethora of fruit machines and casinos”, there is a sense of tonguein-cheek playfulness that made the collection truly covetable.

ord of the Flies, the Arab Spring, Paris May 1968 and Brick Lane are all references for the Sibling spring/summer 2013 collection.

Another Sibling standard, the Intarsia Leopard is re-imagined with full length, hardcore zip across the shoulders. Whilst the X Sweater is X-actly what it says, in kid mohair.

Informed by tribes and subculture (as ever), this season sees punk rocker jackets pinned to the mood board as well as Robert Indiana’s iconic LOVE and the Statue of Liberty graffitied with a Mohawk. The Punk Biker (complete with Leopard, Stars and Lichtenstein influenced Sibling S adornment) is an update on the knitted Sibling classic with all the painted emblems knitted as jacquard.

Gabber-friendly marl grey X Ray Specs images swirl in front of your eyes and 5 Star Oversized Vests and Jackets bring yet more street style to the party. A collection of noise, both optical and in spirit, Collection 5 is Sibling’s most focused, full-force outing yet. www.SiblingLondon.com

DIGITAL PRINTS

FACTION Trend Watch

t has been noted among the fashion community that Mary Katrantzou wears an awful lot of black – a fact that is hardly surprising when you consider the myriad of colour that she works with on a daily basis. She has said herself that she needs to wear black to ‘clean her palette’. But faced with her covetable prints, black is the last colour on our minds. Her triumphant Spring/ Summer 12 collection was a vivid concoction of fragmented florals, car parts, tropical fish and abstract pattern. Far from the standard florals that we are all used to (and bored of); Katrantzou’s take was over-sat-

urated, blocky and almost nausea-inducing, in the best possible way. These acid bright prints adorned everything from evening dresses with billowing bridalstyle trains to two-piece trouser suits, and were created in Katrantzou’s way – scanning an image into Photoshop and layering, layering, layering until the perfect abstract mesh of colour and pattern is born. Katrantzou is at the forefront of the print revolution, which has made a welcome change from the Celine brand of minimalistic, beige-focused ‘good taste’ that has dominated recent seasons. www.marykatrantzou.com

s usual, Christopher Kane brings a touch of luxury to digital prints for his SS13 collection. Abstract brush strokes with a tropical undertone are this seasons staple - the perfect mixture of sophistication, casual style & creative thinking exude from the minimalistic garments shown within his most recent collection. Wether it be a matching brush stroke covered T-shirt and short combo or a more simple black shirt with a single brish stroke adorning the chest. Kane keeps the architecture simple and lets

the prints do all the talking. Adding a few roses into the mix, the design team kept things basic, but far from boring. For a Christopher Kane inspired summer look choose a simple base shade for your outfit work bold prints over the top of that for simplified luxury. The key to an effective outfit is simplicity. Shop online at: www.oki-ni.com

FACTION Trend Watch

runo Basso and Christ o p h e r Brooke are the pioneering design duo at the forefront of the digital print revolution. Since showing a collection made up entirely of digitally printed pieces, Basso & Brooke have built a reputation as ‘the Pixar of fashion’. “Tropical Constructivism” was the title of their SS 12 collection, shown on a runway lit by over a hundred twinkling light bulbs – the juxtaposition between light and dark was something apparent throughout the collection. Inspired by

Basso’s own journey from London to Siberia, the prints reflected the raw landscape of the country, interjected with colourful bursts of tropical inspiration dreamt up by the print maestro to break up the monochrome monotony of his long trip. Each print developed and evolved on each garment, communicating the duo’s desire to show a journey through clothes. Shunning the idea of what typically defines a ‘collection’, Basso & Brooke continued their groundbreaking approach to womenswear.

atie Eary kicks, pushes along the west coast of the US this season, placing California skate and the decadence of carefree youth on a pedestal. “I wanted to take a lifestyle rather than look at a fantasy land this time,” she says. “I didn’t look at literature at all because i’m b e - ing explicit – what i do is real.” In orange, aqua blue and purple, silhouettes are xxl with slim, lowslung jeans for definition. Silk jersey baroque ocean prints are fused with neoprene

whilst shirts are cut in pure silk to billow with movement, espcially when left open. Rucksacks glisten in patent white embossed crocodile and biker jackets are constructed in black baby calf leather. Heavy gold curb chains repeat throughout, similarly gold hardware through zips and studded towel cages. 7.5 Printed skateboards have mirrored gold katie eary branding. Visit Katie’s digital pop up shop where she sells limited prints of her shirts . www.KatieEary.co.uk

DIGITAL PRINTS

FACTION Trend Watch

lthough native to Canada, Erdem is one of British fashion’s favourite sons. Known for his elegant, vintageinspired pieces, he often shuns the frivolity of seasonal trends and opts to stay true to his vision of womenswear. His Spring/Summer collection was bursting with feminine florals on silhouettes that seemed to span the decades, from 80s style off-theshoulder prom looks to ‘The Great Gatsby’ inspired 20s dresses, finished with hats adorned with the same delicate prints. Muted blues, sweet yellows and romantic nudes were at the centre of the majority of the prints and really

made for a truly timeless collection, that, at times, hinted at decadence but remained attainable. The collection also featured subtle details like matte sequins and beautiful broderie anglaise to punctuate the blossoming prints and managed to offer a new perspective on old ideas – something that Erdem does very well, and his celebrity following proves it. Anne Hathaway, Kiera Knightley and even Kate Middleton covet Erdem as much as we do. For a label that embodies grace and romance, it doesn’t come as a surprise that it has such classy celebrity fans. www.erdem.co.uk

opman Design have re-introduced the abstract print into their SS13 collection. A clashing array of contrasting colours with overlaid flower prints adorn baseball styled bomber jackets, coats, shirts and tailored shorts. Abstract petal prints and screen printed flowers help you to stand out and brighten up your Spring/Summer season. Try using a floral print as a statement piece. Pair a short sleeve shirt with some tailored shorts and an oversized jacket for the perfect or if your feeling daring why not turn heads and

go all out, wear a full floral short suit to get the perfect summer look. Topman Design, which started back in 2005 now holds its own against the more established Menswear brands at London fashion week. Topman Design is available to buy online at their online store. www.Topman.co.uk

16-BIT RETOUCH PROJECT Using the pen name Vector Thirty Three, Leon Tyler challenges the perpetual argument of digital retouching.

“I am fascinated by mainstream media’s digital retouching of fashion and lifestyle imagery. The need to create a perfect image of a human being for mass consumerism to desire. Individuality is not important. Conformity is essential. If we do not become this perfect image, then we

should not be accepted into society. I have taken it upon myself to clean up photographs of individuals that I meet and remove any imperfections from their image. The numeric values for these people have been presented for you. This will allow us to conform more easily in the future.”

FACTION introducing

Tales of a Wayward Boy

Robbie Wayward has taken the idea of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;iPhone-ographyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; to a whole new level. The recent rise of the digital polaroid and Instagram have given even the least tech savvy the chance to become a photographer. We talked to Robbie about rebelling, technology, and his take on modern society. Interview - GEORGIA BEY

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FM: To start us off, could you give us a little introduction to your work?

RW: Can I ask… if I’m allowed to swear? I would if you were speaking to me! My work is fairly eclectic and with no distinct style. I guess what ties it all together is the fact that I try to take my audience on a new visual journey with whatever media excites me at the time, and that changes like the wind. I’m a restless artist. At the moment, photography features quite heavily although I’m reluctant to call myself a photographer. I find that label quite scary and limiting. I produce images. That sits much more comfortably with me. For now, anyway. Right now ‘photographic manipulation’ is turning me on creatively in a big way, especially the discipline of carrying out edits with just iPhone apps. I’ve never been the sort to tie myself to a PC with Photoshop for hours. Life’s too short and so is my attention span. My mobile is always with me. It gives me more freedom. I’m told my work often has a strong 80s vibe which makes sense, it’s when I grew up. Fashion is also hugely influential to me. Use of colour, urban settings, decay versus beauty, pop art, sexuality, male and female form and machinery all feature fairly heavily. I’m definitely not a still life kinda boy! FM: You can swear all you like! I’m actually so into your Instagram/iPhonography work I kind of want to go all fangirl over it a little bit! What made you think “yeah, this is what I’m going to do now”? Was it like a conscious decision to do something a bit different, almost rebelling against the quite formal rules of photography? RW: Thank fuck for that! Ha Ha! That’s made me smile, thank you. A friend suggested I join Instagram, so I checked it out. My initial reac-

tion, if I’m honest, was “what a load of pretentious shite!” One girl’s crap shot of a tin of beans got 2000 ‘likes’ mainly because she also happened to have great tits. It didn’t seem to fit. Anyway, I uploaded a few shots which got the attention of some really ‘out there’ artists. Their shots blew my mind. Luckily they shared their knowledge and the apps they’d used and I was away. It was a bit of a happy accident really. It quickly became a platform for me to display what I was doing and gain instant feedback. Good and bad. So, it wasn’t really a conscious decision, more an addictive evolution. Maybe subconsciously I was rebelling from the conventional rules of photography. My rebellious nature often conflicts convention. Here, I could produce the images I wanted to; as opposed to the properly lit and composed images I thought people wanted me to see. It allowed me to be truer to myself artistically, I guess. I’m glad you asked that question, I’d never really thought about it. FM: It’s pretty cool that you found people who were willing to help and share their techniques with you. It seems like a lot of the time people really want to keep their creative secrets to themselves, I guess through fear of being usurped by someone new. I get what you mean about Instagram being a pretentious platform where most people are concerned with showing the world what they had for lunch. What I like about your work is that it’s such a departure from that whole scene, but not a lot of people seem to see iPhonography as a viable creative platform, and I wonder if you have any ideas as to why that is? Like, why don’t more people take it seriously as a way to produce really interesting art?

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RW: Indeed! I was very lucky and a little bit cheeky. It always helps. When people ask me, I tell them what I’ve used to achieve an edit. I’m confident that my imagination will keep me ahead of the competition, which sounds a little conceited but true nonetheless.

Instagram itself has taken steps to promote the site as a legitimate platform for artists by introducing instacanv.as. Here artists can sell their work. There is obviously money in it for the site but I applaud them for taking that step, it’s pretty clever.

It’s like you said – the photographic community can be quite purist in their thinking and reluctant to embrace new ideas. That’s fine. Sometimes only a DSLR and Photoshop will do the job, but what iPhonography does is allow those that can’t afford to follow the traditional route to take some shots, edit and post them. I think that’s amazing. It’s also an incredibly way to capture images. Assuming you have signal you can take the image, edit it and post it from wherever you are.

I think fear sometimes influences artists’ use of the iPhonography platform. Fear of being branded a ‘one trick pony’. I have thought about it myself. What I try and do to resolve it is to not only keep what I present on Instagram fresh, but to constantly promote my other platforms. When my website goes live it will be used to display my purist photography. It’s about balance I think. My agent said to me “Robbie, use whatever means

FACTION introducing

necessary to promote yourself. Get naked if you have to!” and she was right. Not about the naked part, but about using all available platforms – iPhonography is another platform and one with a potentially massive audience. FM: Would you be happy to see the platform become more ‘mainstream’, or is there something about the sort of underground nature of Instagram as an artistic platform that draws you to it? RW: I think it was partially the underground element that attracted me. I’m a creature of the ‘other side’, everything I do, from the way I present myself to my art are all alternative. I get a strange almost perverse thrill from being different and I guess it follows that I seek similar platforms to present what I do. So yes, I’d like this particular platform to stay as it is. It almost gives me permission to present my darker, harder to interpret imagery. If its instant gratification that I’m seeking that day, I just post a pretty portrait on Facebook and then bare my soul on Instagram. It’s interesting, I think, that on occasions, my friends have called me to check that I’m okay after seeing an image that I’ve posted. Often there is a direct correlation between the image and how I’m feeling.

Do you visualise the end result or are the manipulations almost like a happy accident? I suppose what I’m really trying to ask is, is there a lot of trial and error involved, or do you have a clear idea of what the end result should look like? RW: Trial and error? Fuck yeah! Totally. I normally have an idea of how I want the finished image to look. Sometimes I just want to evoke and emotional response from the audience. Often I start with the idea

“

me. I wanted to convey sadness through the creature’s eyes which had to have black/red oily tears and the image had to look gothic and industrial but at the same time beautiful and ethereal. Tall order but that’s what was in my head. This image was the most epic I’ve undertaken. It took 4 days and I went crosseyed staring at the iPhone screen but it looked how I imagined. That doesn’t always happen. I adore graphic novel imagery. It’s often dark which visually attracts me. I draw it myself sometimes. I discovered a dope app called “Toon Paint” which, provided you choose good base imagery and manipulate the settings effectively, you can get some sweet results. It’s me ‘playing’, really.

we need to know when to walk away from our technology and run bare foot through the woods.

FM: I agree with you that your work is always fresh; a lot of your images are quite different from one another. There is definitely a strong fashion influence in a lot of it, but some (especially some of the newer work) has almost a comic book/graphic novel sort of look, is that an aesthetic that you’re aiming for?

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in my head and shoot the base mages I need to achieve it. The editing process evolves as I go. It’s not unusual for me to have 150 images saved on my phone where I’ve changed my mind, been influenced by something or someone else or discovered a new app I want to incorporate into the finished image. A prime example of that would be “Crying Robot” image. All I knew at the concept stage was that I wanted the ‘being’ to be part machine and part human, there’s something very macabre about that that fascinates

FM: It’s so interesting that something that the audience sees as ‘instant’ actually takes you so long to produce. With ‘traditional’ photography most people know about the process, as in you look at a fashion image in a magazine and realise that the original shot has been enhanced in some way by Photoshop, but I think that unless you are really involved in iPhonography there’s no way to know what is actually involved in the process of creating an image, there’s something about that mystery that I personally really like. RW: Totally. Some of the edits take days. Especially those involving “Juxtaposer”. Quite often I end up with between 10 to 15 separate visual elements combined into one finished piece. I see something on the bus or driving to the gym and

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think to myself “that would look crazy good in that piece”. So if you ever see whack job looking people at the side of the road taking shots of randomage with their iPhone they’re probably using Juxtaposer. FM: You’re obviously passionate about the opportunities for creativity that technology like iPhones etc can offer, but I wonder how you feel about the sort of digital modernity that we live in, in general? I describe myself sometimes as a technophobe and think that sometimes the technology we surround ourselves with cuts us off from each other. Is that something you would agree with? Or are you more open to technology and gadgets aside from iPhonography? RW: I’m a total technophobe too. One of my mates told me that you had to jump to the side when you opened the microwave door to stop being hit by the rays. She told me that when I was 18 and I was still doing it when I was 26! Until my boyfriend at the time told me “I was an insane person” and explained microwave technology to me. I just don’t get stuff like that. That said, I couldn’t be without my iPhone now. It’s the coolest device. I resisted it for months like I did Facebook and ended up addicted to both. Still, it’s healthier than cocaine I guess. I totally agree with you with regards technology and isolation. I would even say it has the potential to unravel the fabric of society if it hasn’t already started to. I think the phenomena of self promotion through Facebook, Twitter, Tumblr etc is potentially damaging. I see so many people so involved with attaining notoriety and their five minutes of fame that it seems to totally consume them. This, however, is coming from a man who last year posted a different shirtless picture every few hours on Facebook. I did recognise I was being a dick though and had a word with myself. It’s a bit of a hypocritical statement.

I think, in short, we need to know when to walk away from our technology and run bare foot through the woods if you get what I mean? FM: It seems like a lot of your pieces could have been ‘works in progress’ for a while before actually being complete. I imagine it to be like you’re constantly on the look out for images to add in, how do you ever decide that an image is actually finished? - Microwaves also terrify me! I’m so scared to cook food in them so I can definitely relate to your fear of being hit by rays! I always think I’m sensationalising and being ridiculous but I really do think that all this social media and social networking is actually pretty scary, and I think it’s pretty sad that no one really does things like letter writing anymore. Everything is so immediate, and I just think it creates a sort of impatience that is so unhealthy. Like what you said about people wanting their 5 minutes of fame, it used to be about hard work and talent but now if you do something weird on the internet it comes to you straight away. It’s just so bizarre! RW: That’s true. I don’t know if the pieces are ever truly finished. That’s the art really, knowing when to stop. I abandon some pieces because, in essence, they’ve started to bore me. I revisit some while others remain unfinished. I think it’s quite a common process. I ‘unplug’ frequently. I need time by myself. I climb on the moors and train. It’s purely selfish, indulgent ‘me’ time. I’d go crazy without that. I can be quite a loner really. It’s an awful thing to say but I seek company when I need it. I think most people do that. I’m just more aware of it. You’ve made me think about writing a letter. I can’t remember the

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I don’t know if the pieces are ever truly finished. That’s the art really, knowing when to stop. last time I did that. Maybe I’ll write to my friends in Australia this week. Maybe. How much are stamps these days? I think that proves our point – I’m completely out of touch with what I consider to have been a more civilised age. That’s pretty sad.

FM: Yeah I guess that is quite a common thing, you hear artists all the time saying that their work never feels totally “finished”, I think it’s probably a perfectionist thing. I think having some sort of hobby, or a desire to be alone in a sense can be the key to being able to switch off from technology. I see a lot of people who thrive off the attention of other people and those are ones who are constantly wired in to the whole thing. I imagine that having a break from everything probably helps you to stay inspired too? I don’t know how much stamps are either! My parents live in Australia and I’ve never really sent them letters. I always think I should but Facebook is so much easier. It’s weird really that I feel like I’m against the whole thing in so many ways but I also feel like it’s totally essential.

RW: We exist in a ‘want that yesterday’ world but at least we have insight enough to question it even if, like everyone else, we can’t really escape it. We have to move with it or get left behind. I’m much

more considered as to how I promote myself these days though. If you’re half naked people won’t be looking at the art. In my experience anyway. That was a piece of advice I should have dismissed. For me, it’s good to take a break from the levels of mental energy a piece can require. Even the thought process of “what shall I do next?” is tiring. The key is to do something physical. It switches my ever-chatting brain off, or at least quietens it to a level where I can relax. That makes me sound psycho, I don’t hear voices or see dead people! You’re right. The perfectionist syndrome is ever present too. To be honest I feel that more when I’m producing purist photography. It’s obvious, even to somebody with no photographic experience, that a photograph isn’t properly lit or composed. It just doesn’t ‘look right’. In contrast the highly manipulated work is much less open to scrutiny. It isn’t what the eye would naturally see and so the audience isn’t sure exactly how it should look. They either like the images or they don’t. I get away with a lot. I like it if they’re asking “what is that?” or even better if they feel an emotion. If that happens I’ve done my job well. See more of Robbie’s work on Instagram @RobbieWayward

FACTION introducing

FACTION debate

E-BOOK

VS PAPER Words - GEORGIA BEY Now, before I begin, I want to point out that I am more than aware that I am definitely not the first person to wax lyrical about the virtues of reading an actual book versus reading a simulation of a book, but with this being the Digital Issue and with myself being something of a technophobe, I feel that the time is right to chime in to the “E-Book Vs Actual Book” debate. Books, or at least their early ancestors, have been around forever, literally centuries. The Epic of Gilgamesh, for instance, engraved in ancient Sumerian on a stone tablet predates 2000 BC and the classical Homer’s Odyssey

FACTION debate

dates back to the 8th century BC. Books existed before Jesus. That’s impressive, right? The printing press was invented during the Renaissance, and went on to change literature forever – books and novels could be easily and cheaply produced, and became accessible to (almost) everyone. So, books, in their evolutionary paper form, have been loved for centuries. As well as playing their part in some of the most controversial events in history – the Nazi book burnings for instance. With this in mind, I just don’t see the need for technological advances in how we read. An EBook is harder to burn, yes, but I don’t think that was the reasoning behind the idea development of the electronic book. I understand that with a Kindle, or similar E-Book reader, you have the capability to carry around hundreds of books – my question is, why would you want to? Surely there is a limit to the amount of books a person can be reading at any given time, and I’m not above admitting that I have a habit of starting a book and never actually finishing it. So why would I want to carry around 200 books that I’m probably never going to finish? If, for instance, you like to read while you’re on the bus, I’m ready to assume that you will only really need to take one book for the journey. One of my main issues with the E-Book phenomenon is that you miss out on the best things about reading an actual book. The familiar feeling of the paper between your fingertips, pages withered from repeated dog-earing, and, most of all, that “new book smell”. I’m not the only one who resents this lack of sensory joy, it would seem, as there is now a perfume that you can spray onto your E-Reader that replicates the musty smell of a good book. Described as an “Aerosol E-Book Enhancer”, NewBookSmell promises to “bring back that real book smell you miss so much”. I find this so confusing – if you want the new book smell so much, what is so wrong with reading, you know, an actual book? Technology for technology’s sake has become too much for me – at the risk of sounding elderly, I just don’t really ‘get it’. While I can’t claim that I don’t buy into any gadgetry at all – I do, after all, own a “smart phone”, although it is a Blackberry (arguably the stupidest of all the smart phones) – I really would describe myself as more than slightly technophobic. I can’t help thinking that all of the advances that we’ve made in technology aren’t actually fulfilling any real need, they are just quicker, easier extensions of things we already had. Everything is so instant, and most of it is also so unnecessary to me. If you strip us back to the bare bones, do we really need Facebook, or Tumblr, or, in fact, virtual representations of books? I think not. But the sad truth is that I think if those things were suddenly taken away from us we would struggle to function. Who wants to write a letter when Facebook is quicker or, getting back to subject, who wants to go to a bookshop when you can download a book from the comfort of your own home? Well, in short, I do.

Deco

Photography: MIKE RAVEN Make-Up: MATT SHEATHER Styling: Georgia BEY ALL CLOTHING BY NICOLA JAMES Models: WaWa Lai CaCa Lee

FACTION the rise of fashion film

THE

RISE

OF FASHION

he last decade has seen the colossal rise of the Fashion Film. No longer are images enough in the fast paced, instantaneous 21st century that we live in today. The photograph has been set aside to make way for the motion picture. Obviously film is not a new art form, not for the film makers anyway! But it seems that with the technological ease of modern life, and with every digital camera now offering the capability to record in 1080HD why should we photographers not have a bloody good go at it. It seems those lucky enough to be working at the top of their game have done so, and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve embraced it with open arms. The fashion photography elite with the likes of Steven Meisel, Mert and Marcus, Rankin, Nick Knight, Steven Klein and Tim Walker are all working with film and it seems to be paying off. Immersing

FILM Words by MIKE RAVEN

Images from MIKE RAVEN and Dsquared2

FACTION the rise of fashion film

themselves in a new creative pathway has given them an even wider scope to broadcast their work with, their photographs, as beautiful and carefully thought out as they are become the very beginning to what is actually possible and fashion brands have used this to their advantage. Advertisements from the likes of Dolce and Gabbana have been around for many years, causing controversy from the moment our television screens were blazoned with same sex couples making out in the middle of busy streets (courtesy of Steven Klein), and in a way they pioneered the ideals of fashion film. Not only using it to advertise but also to communicate a narrative. This is evident both within their still imagery and film, of course this would not have been possible without the visionary, the one and only Steven Klein. But what is it that the titans of fashion have come to love about this medium? Prada, Dsqaured2, Lanvin, Burberry, Armani, Jeremy Scott, Dior have for the last few seasons been commissioning the great fashion photographers to be great fashion filmmakers. Is it just the icing on top of the cake? Mert and Marcus have blessed us once again with a new film for Dsquared2 AW12. ‘The Substitutes’ portraying the playfulness and sex appeal associated with the brand. Dean and Dan play the substitutes, giving their pupils a lesson in how to own the catwalk and how to live the Dsqaured2 lifestyle. The film helps to communicate what the images simply may not be able to do and allows the audience to really understand what the brand is about. It maybe putting it in laymen’s terms for the less imaginative of consumers, but it looks good! After all is that not what fashion is about?

are now experimenting too. For their AW12 campaign Edun - the ethical fashion label have commissioned Ryan McGinley for their ad campaign. The visual poetry of Beautiful Rebels - McGinley’s short narrative, populated by butterflies which fly between the hands and from the pants of models, express a feeling of uprising. A Rebirth. The campaign matches very closely with McGinley’s personal work and lends itself to creating a feel-

than a singular still seems to be working well for both photographers and brands alike and where as a decade ago only a few brands would dare to step foot into the unknown, in 2012 your most definitely out of the loop if your not using moving image. That too goes for aspiring photographers wanting succeed in the fashion industry.

ing of authenticity. Brands such as Edun and Dsqaured2 seem to pick their photographers well. McGinley fits the Edun mission statement perfectly, His personal work parralells the brand almost exactly like they were made for each other.

will the fashion photograph or the fashion film out grow one and other, they should form an equal partnership. As creatives we should learn embrace the two as fraternal twins and walk hand in hand towards an unyielding creative alliance. You never know, you might enjoy it.

The use of Fashion Film seems to disseminate fashion ideals in a whole hearted way, the use of a Some even less obvious candidates constant stream of footage rather

In no way am i saying that the photograph is dying. It will never. Nor

Long live the Fashion Film.

FACTION top fashion films

PRADA

Possibly the best fashion film to date for Spring/Summer ’12. Steven Meisel shoots the Prada film – inspired by the 1950s, it is set around a gas station, symbolizing new horizons and economic fulfilment. Models travel through the gas station listening to a diverse range of music from bygone eras to current day. The dreamy film shows a super confident, independent and glamorous Prada woman for the season ahead! http://youtu.be/XT_k24nzkkU

Images from Prada, Dsquared2, Bell Soto, Ruth Hogben

DSQUARED2 Mert and Marcus have done it again! Their AW12 campaign for Dsquared2 is brilliant. The short film titled ‘The Substitutes’ stars designers Dean & Dan, models Benedikt Angerer, Simon Van Meervenne, Liuk Bass, Ralf Javoiss, Daphne Groeneveld, Frida Aasen and Bette Franke, plus Joan Ribera and Ratka Mayor.

The models take on the role of ridiculously stylish bored students that await the chaos caused when Dean and Dan enter to show them in essence, what Dsquared2 is all about! This sexy, fun, youthful film is the perfect way to get ready for AW12. https://vimeo.com/44487805

FACTION top fashion films

BELL SOTO The first film from the Peruvian -

New York based photographer’s latest collaboration with V Models: VSenses is titled Polaroid. Starring BLAKE KNEISLEY the short film shows a delicate, sensual side to the dominant male we are used to seeing in fashion. The films in the series were all inspired by the human senses. “The starting point for this project was the idea of Five Senses, but I did not want to be too abstract or literal about it. Each sense is a starting point for a short narrative. Also I like when a character is believable on each story. I combined my style of fashion photography with a cinematic approach.” http://vsenses.wordpress.com/films/

3 FAN CLUB

Ruth Hogben (Showstudio) has teamed up with Katie Grand Editor-in-Cheif of LOVE Magazine for a very special Spring/Summer 12 fashion film titled ‘Fan Club’. The 50’s inspired showgirl film celebrates 14 years of Louis Vuitton. Fan Club is a cheeky, fun and perfectly thought out fashion film that will have you glued to the screen for the entirety of the 5 minute epic exclusivly broadcast on love magazines website earlier this year. http://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/

FACTION introducing

NET.GIF Southwest based photographer Josh Greet has had vast amounts of exposure over the last year working with the likes of Vice magazine and shooting a campaign for Adidas originals. For our digital issue he’s shared with us his latest project NET.gif, a tribute to the trusty .gif image and the internet.

Net.gif is a project exploring the realms of Internet through the medium of the gif file. The gif (graphics interchange format) is unique because it is a format generated as a direct result of the web’s creation. In 1992 even with the fastest Internet connections it wasn’t possible to watch videos of any sort. Nor would you be well equipped to load regular images, not without a long wait at least. The solution was simply a tiny animated loop to give life to our otherwise flat and boring World Wide Web. So they may have lost their original purpose as the Internet has become more efficient but they still remain as a relic of the Internet and are still used more than ever. In the days where the Internet is such a big part of our lives, gif’s are used as a form of communication, especially on image boards and social blogging sites like 4chan and

FACTION introducing

Tumblr, where an image or gif is often a more common response than text. These looping low fi video clips are related to human memory, which is intimately tied to isolated moments in time. With political campaigns, laws and even religion being formed around the Internet, the work is looking at the power of the web and how it significantly affects our modern lives. Being constantly connected to the world wide web has become part of western society. With the net becoming integrated into our lives like daily routine with some becoming addicted to online gaming, shopping, pornography, gambling and social networking. The online world has become an alternative to the real one with many spending time online to escape the real world. In this work the Internet has been portrayed as a religious cult with its status being similar to that of a religion.

When

OPPOSITES

ATTRACT Photography: MIKE RAVEN Styling: GEORGIA BEY Models: MAC LOGUNZ LARA STEPHENS

Mac wears Shirt by Y-3, Belt by Hugo Boss, Shorts by H&M, Shoes by Y-3. Lara wears T-shirt by BOY London, Shorts by H&M, Shoes by Converse

Mac wears T-shirt by BOY London, trousers and boots by Y-3

This Page: Lara wears top and hairband by H&M, jewellery models own. Opposite Page: Mac wears top by BOY London, Trousers by Yohji Yammamoto

Lara wears top and hairband by H&M, Feather Headdress by Fashion Against Aids by H&M, Shorts by Candy Shop at House of Quinn, Shoes by Vans,

This Page: Lara wears metal neclace by H&M, studded leather dress, stylists own, Leggings by H&M. Opposite Page: Lara wears animal print top, stylists own, Skirt by H&M, Shoes stylists own. Mac wears, Top, sweatpants and shoes by Y-3

Lara wears, all items from H&M

This Page: Lara wears top and shorts from H&M, shoes, stylists own Opposite Page: Mac wears vest, swimming shorts and shoes by Y-3

This Page: Lara wears top from H&M, shorts by Candy Shop at House of Quinn, shoes by Vans Mac wears top by Yohji Yammamoto at V&A, shorts by Candy Store at House of Quinn Shoes by Y-3

Opposite Page: Mac wears top by BOY London, Trousers by Yohji Yammamoto.

Lara wears top by BOY London, Hairband by H&M Mac wears shirt by Y-3, bely by Hugo Boss, Shorts by H&M.

Lara wears studded dress stylists own, leggings by H&M, Shoes by Versace H&M

This Page: Mac wears T-shirt by Yohji Yammamoto V&A, shorts by Candy Store at House of Quinn, shoes by Y-3

Opposite Page: Mac wears jacket by Yohji Yammamoto, T-shirt by BOY London, Trousers and Shoes by Y-3.

T R A IVE R D

leading artists including: Alexander Calder, Frank Stella, Roy Lichtenstein, Andy T h e Warhol, Ernst Fuchs, Rober RauschenBMW art car col- berg, M.J. Nelson, Ken Done, Matazo lection, featuring cars trans- Kayama, César Manrique, Jeff Koons, formed by some of the world’s leading A.R. Penck, Esther Mahlangu, Sandro artists spanning the last 35 years landed Chia, Jenny Holzer and David Hockney. in London’s East End last month. The ICA, in partnership with BMW the May- We took a trip to the transformed East or of London and London 2012 Festival. London Car Park to see how BMW would Occupied 6 Floors of the NCP Car Park choose to display their works of art. Enon Great Eastern Street in Shoreditch tering through the service elevator to the the free exhibition on between 21st July top floor we began our journey through - 4th August, which brought together the exquisitely and concisely mapped BMW’s excellence in car design and the out showcase of some of the greatest ICA’s passion for and commitment to artists work - Spread over 6 floors we art, was a one-off opportunity for art and made our way from BACK TO THE FUdesign lovers as well as car enthusiasts. TURE and the first ever BMW Art cars all the way through to GO FASTER! The collection, initiated over 35 years that showed us the wonder of the Jeff ago, started when french racing driver Koons and Ernst Fuchs masterpieces. and auctioneer Hérve Poulain invited his friend Alexander Calder to design a Images courtesy of BMW and the ICA car that married artistic excellence to ‘an See more at: already perfect object’ features BMW http://artdrive.ica.org.uk/ cars transformed by some of the world’s

STRANGER IN THE CITY Photography by DAVID SHELDRICK Make-Up by HALEY ALYS Stylist by KYLE LO MONACO Model by FLETCHER HARRINGTON

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As a we spoke so heavily about our love for the Olympics in the last issue, when we saw Pablo Jones-Solerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest work we just had to include it. Pabloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 3 pieces from this series are titled with the 3 colours of the medals and represent a certain classic computer game that reminded us of a distant childhood (maybe not that distant for some of us). Imagery courtesy of Pablo Jones-Soler

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AWASH

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COLOUR ILLUSTRATIONS

BY KATY BENNETT

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A HIDDEN

BEAUTY Photography: MIKE RAVEN Make-Up: MATT SHEATHER Styling: GEORGIA BEY Models: REBECCA HAND ZOEY ROBERTS HAYDN WILLIAMS

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VIRAL BEAUTY Every season there comes yet another set of trends. This issue at FACTION we focused on the digital world, looking at musicians that found their fame online, and how there fame has influenced fashion and beauty trends for 2012. MySpace EP’s and viral videos may have been what propelled these individuals, destined for stardom in to the spotlight. Now these style icons could not be further away from their audition tapes, they are both establishing and shaping trends the world over, captivating audiences with their elegance, class and sheer audacity. We’ve gathered together the heavy weights of viral beauty to give you our take on 2012’s neoteric trends, from Cher Lloyd’s street chic (albeit a little chavvy and fairly Cheryl Cole) to Lana del Rey’s authentic Hollywood glamour. Photography by MIKE RAVEN Make-Up by MATT SHEATHER Styling by GEORGIA BEY

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S S LE L

E R I N O YG L

L E ON

When it’s hot you don’t want to be layered in make up so why not try the boyish look and do it like a dude. This is all about perfect skin and fuller

brows. This new look will define your face and is so simple it will give you 10 minutes extra in the morning. Try 17’s BB Blemish Balm (£6.99), for that light coverage that is all you need.

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M U EG

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L B UB

Like most of us, we love a pink lip with bold lashes. As seen on Marina Diamandis, this feminine pink is playful enough to get you a

cheeky wing but won’t be out of place in the office. Cute and girly but mix with a dash of daring lashes and this look will get all the guys talking. Try MAC’s Snob (£14) on the lips and Benefit’s They’re Real Mascara (£18.50) and off you go.

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OHE RA T

Hollywood glamour is always going to be a popular trend. The power of a red lip and the winged black liner is a classic complimentary look

that will suit any one. Like Lana Del Ray this is not only for the red carpet, try this look on a girl’s night out for sophistication that will leave everyone dropping at your knees. Try MAC’s Ruby Woo (£14) for the perfect pout.

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Chav chic is something that people will either love or hate. Start with smudged black liner for that ‘I don’t care’ attitude and a nude lip-

stick for that polished look. Block black eyes will create a bold statement and will help you get in the party mood. Try Urban Decay’s NAKED Palette (£36) for that dark smoky eye that can be your greatest accessory on a night out.

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T A E E L THE B TO

When the sun is shining what’s more fun than adding a pop of neon to your look, like Nicki Minaj go all out with bright eyes and lips. Daring

to s o m e people but will get you in the summer mood! This is all about colour blocking so try not to add too many colours, try MAC’S Morange (£14) for that bold lip and pair with LUSH’s Calm Eye liner (£14.50).

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EVERYONE

ABOUT

Imagery courtesy of LUSH and REAL TECHNIQUES

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TALKING

After LUSH’s sister company, B Never To Busy To Be Beautiful, left us all in 2009 every one has been waiting for them to venture back into the make up world. This month is the launch of LUSH’s brand new make up range named, Emotional Brilliance. The range – consisting of lip colours, eyeliners and eye shadows - is less about wearing make- up that’s in-season or someone else’s vision of what’s on-trend. These little bottles pack a punch of colour and are linked to colour therapy, spin the wheel in store and pick three colours, these chosen colours link to emotions and wearing them help to bring out these in the wearer. All priced at £14.50, full to the brim with 5g’s of product, weather you are a fan of LUSH or not, go and have a spin of the wheel and try on the products. You may pick the gold glitter liner in the shade Fantasy for that summer party or the Liquid lipstick in the shade Perspective for the soft rosey pink lip, perfect day out at the beach.

EMOTIONAL BRILLIANCE

REAL TECHNIQUES

Real Techniques make up brushes are taking over the world. Created with YouTube legend Sam Chapman, these brushes are now in every country you can think of and have every make up artist talking about them. These brushes are special for many reasons; firstly the taklon bristles are 100% synthetic and cruelty free and help to create that high definition finish. The stylishly designed brush also can be cleverly stored by having a flat base, and not to mention these brushes are in the lower price bracket meaning you are getting a steal. You can see why these brushes are taking over and we at Faction canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to see where they go from here! (All Around ÂŁ10, Boots)

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MARCH

HAIR

Regular stylist for FACTION - Lee Ewings at MARCH HAIR and his creative team have got together to bring us their 50â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspired summer hairstyles and some great products that no one should be without. - All prodcuts available at March Hair, Plymouth. Product Images courtesy of Sebastian and Wella PHOTOGRAPHY by Mike Raven

Stylist Tip: Sebastian Craft Clay is the perfect short hair product. Create any texture on Short to mid legnth hair and its great for guys too.

Jay @ MARCH HAIR

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Stylist Tip: Shaper Fierce from Sebastian is the only hair spray you’ll ever need. Use for casual catwalk styles - updo’s or down. A Perfect all-round strong hold hairspray

Carrie @ MARCH HAIR

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Carrie-Ann @ MARCH HAIR

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Stylist Tip: Wella Craft Curl is great for getting that relaxed summer look. Take a small amount and massage into the roots of your hair and scratch into ends for long tasseled curls and loose, edgy styling.

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FACTION fragrances

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AROMA THERAPY

Summer is slowly leaving us and with autumn on our doorsteps, we have chosen our five favourite scents for the only time of year you can truly wear anything. Mixing beach summer daytime fragrances with a spiced nighttime scent is the perfect way to transition from Summer to Autumn. We have a mix of fragrances for everyone. Viktor and Rolf’s explosive new granade-styled ‘Spicebomb’ is for you guys. With top notes of bergamot and grapefruit, working its way

through heart notes of chilli and saffron, it finishes with base notes of Tobacco, Vetiver and Leather. Spicebomb reveals masculinity from every angle. It has the perfect balance between intensity and subtlety, at only £37.50 it’s a steal. Our slightly higher end scent packs a hefty punch to your wallet but we’d like to say it’s worth every penny. For the fairly large sum of £135 both you guys and girls can share

FACTION fragrances

some of Tom Fords luxury elixir ‘Neroli Portofino’. This bright and invigorating fragrance, with top notes of orange and bergamot quickly morphs into something delicately smooth and airy. The soft amber bed envelopes and amalgamates the elements in a soapy conventional dry down with orange undertones. Neroli Portofino is a pleasant dignified aroma that starts off cool and finishes slightly warmer. For the spontaneous and seductive foxes among you girls its definitely time to try out ‘Big Pony 2’. The floral, fruity and oriental scent from Ralph Lauren’s new womens’’ fragrance collection provides a blend of cranberry and tonka for the perfect balance of femininity and sweetness. RRP £35.00

Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess is The fragrance that worships every inch of you. A sensuous, sun-drenched blend of Bergamot and Mandarin, cooled with Tahitian Gardenia Petals and Coconut, warmed with Amber, Sandalwood and Vetiver. The perfect way to achieve desire and feel all woman. Available in House of Fraser £40 With a new look - Bobbi’s best-selling fragrance gets an update in a sleek bottle. Designed with a lightly intoxicating blend of sand jasmine, sea spray, and mandarin, Beach captures the atmosphere and attitude of summer. This eau de parfum priced at £38.00 is wearable anytime, anywhere .

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THE CREATIVE TEAM AT FACTION MAGAZINE WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THE DIGITAL ISSUE. WE CONTINUE TO STRIVE TOWARDS SHOWCASING CREATIVE TALENT AND LOOK FORWARD TO SHARING OUR NEXT ISSUE WITH YOU. FEEL FREE TO SUBMIT YOUR WORK TO US, VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFO.

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