Review: Mill House Hotel There are few eateries that are hidden away as well as the Yokebourne Restaurant at the Mill House Hotel. It’s located on the edge of Ashington, but you could live in the village for many years and be unaware of its existence, half way along a bumpy driveway that links a small access point on the A24 dual carriageway with Mill Lane in the village. But the delightful 17th Century country house, originally built as accommodation for mill workers, has been used as a hotel for many years. Having been run as a Bed and Breakfast and then a hotel, it closed in 2007 and for two years sat sadly dormant, until a Storrington family saw potential in the grand old building and took on the challenge or renovating the building. David Ockelford and his wife Karen re-opened The Mill House Hotel last year, whilst eldest son Richard took on the role of head chef in the hotel restaurant. Karen said: “We came to look at the hotel, and it was in a pretty bad state. But It has a homely warmth to it, and was a place we could see ourselves both living and working. “I do have a tendency to take on mad challenges. I bought a shop, a pub (the couple ran the White Horse in Pulborough) and now we have a hotel!” The kitchens were also of great interest to the Ockelfords. Richard also runs an outside events and catering company (www.ark-events.co.uk) and the hotel is occasionally used for functions related to this business. However, it is the hotel side of the business that is thriving more than anything. David said: “We moved in on Boxing Day 2009, into a dark, deso-
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late run-down property. We spent five months renovating to a level so we could get the restaurant open in May last year. “The hotel side has really taken off since the Roundabout Hotel in West Chiltington closed, as there aren’t many hotels in this area. “We need to build the restaurant side of the business but that takes time in a rural community like this. We host music events here at the hotel and often put on a hog roast or BBQ and that attracts local people with their families, but it’s difficult as of course we don’t get too much in the way of passing trade here.” With only five rooms at the Hotel, it is clear that the restaurant must offer something special to convince anyone other than guests to visit The Mill House. And it’s Richard who is charged with enticing people away from the beaten path with his culinary expertise. Richard was head chef at the White Lion in Thakeham for two years before joining his parents at
‘I think people like the homely feel and personal approach’ The Mill House Hotel. Richard said: “The aim is to provide people with as close to a fine-dining experience as we can here but without the formalities or pretentiousness. “So we keep it relaxed, informal but still the same quality food you’d expect from top restaurants. I think people like the homely feel and personal
approach to the service, coupled with the food.” But does the food hold up to scrutiny? All of the meals on the menu are homemade - even the ice creams and sorbets are made in the kitchen, as is the bread and soup. The beef is sourced from Surrey Farm near Guildford, the pork from a farm in Funtington near Chichester, while other produce comes from Farncombes Fresh Food in Cranleigh. Richard said: “I don’t push the boundaries too far, so you still get a real plate of food. Something I’m quite keen on is that people get value for money and don’t leave here hungry. “I like to use cuisine from across the world, and I think that comes across in the menu. I take an English dish and change it about a bit, so you have things like the lamb with the mint tabouleh (a salad popular in the Middle East). “I don’t want to get labelled in any particular way. If I have a broad menu, I should be able to please everybody.” So would we be pleased with what we were presented with at
The Mill House? Before we get to that, we’ll briefly touch on what a lovely building The Mill House Hotel is - a quiet, safe setting, run by a very welcoming family. It’s a lovely place to pop along to, even if you just want to share a bottle of wine with a degree of peace and quiet. But can Richard’s food be good enough to see the restaurant Continue on Page 60