europa star
middle case as the original timepiece including the sleekness of the bezel and the prominence of the lugs, but it now has renewed vigour and tension. Its dial, however, is more technical, and displays the supplementary indications of the alarm power reserve on a disc at 3 o’clock, the date shown by a hand at 6 o’clock, as well as an on/off indicator for activating the alarm at 9 o’clock. The alarm is activated using a push-piece at 8 o’clock, on the side of the case. The case itself is in titanium and steel, and features contrasting polished and satin finishes. It comes mounted on either a steel bracelet or an alligator leather strap, with folding clasp and safety catch. But the Heritage Advisor has more than one trick up its sleeve—it comes with a second bracelet, made in fabric, with a tongued buckle. There can be no doubt that these famous fabric bracelets, developed approximately two years ago by Tudor, have seriously contributed to the success of the brand and the renewed interest it is enjoying today. Developed in collaboration with an arts manufacturer specialising in artisanal ribbon (see sidebar), these fabric bracelets are so fine and so light, yet so solid and so resistant. They also offer a “vintage” aspect that is highly appreciated in addition to the obvious functional advantages. These fabric straps have become a strong identifying sign of the brand and the new Tudor spirit.
COVER STORY 7
TUDOR FASTRIDER
Tudor Fastrider, the sporty genes of the brand "A CONCENTRATE OF HUMAN EFFORTS" To make its famous fabric bracelets,Tudor works with a historic manufacturer, one of the last artisanal “ribbon makers” in existence. (For confidentiality reasons, we are not able to give the name of this company.) It is surprising to realise just how close watchmaking, in its most artisanal production aspects, and an art such as the fabrication of ribbons actually are. In ribbon making, the savoir-faire and the hand of man continue to play an essential role, even if they adopt ultra-modern technologies. Thus, if the ribbons of today might be designed on a computer and if their fabrication might call upon the latest materials, their artisanal production is still based on weaving methods that are as antique as they are sophisticated. The suppleness and “intelligence” of the human hand remain fundamental, notably in the preparation, the smoothing, and the tension of the threads that will make up the ribbon. Here also, as in watchmaking, meticulousness, precision, and training play a capital role. The “time necessary” to complete these operations cannot be reduced, unless it is to the detriment of the quality. As the director of the enterprise muses, “a ribbon is a concentrate of technique, design, harmony, and taste… a concentrate of human efforts.” Might we not say the same thing about watchmaking?
While the Advisor can be comfortably worn with a bracelet made of natural silk, the new Tudor Fastrider chronograph prefers a strap made of polypropylene. With the Fastrider line, we enter into another universe of the brand, that of speed and motorcycle sports. This chronograph is equipped with an automatic TUDOR 7753 calibre that features 46 hours of power reserve. The 42-mm stainless steel case evokes the world of racing with its “free flowing and bevelled structure,” as the brand’s management says. Its mechanical sportiness is reinforced by the black PVD cylinders, reminiscent of engine pistons, which house the watch’s push-pieces, as well as the shield, also made of black PVD, which encircles the date corrector at 9 o’clock on the middle case. The satin-finished bezel is engraved with a tachymetric scale. On the outside of the dial is a raised ring showing the minute markers.