WATCH AFICIONADO
WEB & IPAD SPECIAL
THE GOLDEN MOVE OF CARL F. BUCHERER w w w. w a t c h - a f i c i o n a d o . c o m WATCH BUSINESS PAPER | USA VOL. 52 | MARCH/APRIL 2016 | WITH INDEX OF ALL IN-DEPTH ARTICLES PUBLISHED ONLINE
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EDITORIAL
Featuring this month on:
IN SEARCH OF
www.watch-aficionado.com MANERO PERIPHERAL IN ROSE GOLD by Carl F. Bucherer Reference number: 00.10917.03.23.01 Movement: Automatic caliber CFB A2050, chronometer, diameter of 30.6 mm, thickness of 5.28 mm, 33 jewels, 55 hours of power reserve. Functions: Date, hours, minutes, small seconds. Case: 18-karat rose gold, domed sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal case back, water-resistant to 30m (3 atm), diameter of 40.6 mm, thickness of 11.2 mm. Strap: Louisiana alligator leather, 18-karat rose gold pin buckle. Dial: White. Variant: 00.10917.03.33.01 with black dial. www.carl-f-bucherer.com
by Pierre Maillard, Editor-in-chief
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re we looking at the end of a model, the model that has shaped the face of world watchmaking over the last two decades? Given the plethora of factors conspiring to destroy or seriously compromise the foundations of this unique sector of economic activity, we’re tempted to say yes. It would be superfluous to expound upon the worrying state of the world, which is amply discussed elsewhere. All the CEOs we approached to complete our survey (see elsewhere in these pages) had the same things to say: stalled economy in China, fall of the ruble, bloodbath in the Middle East, Europe contending with a refugee crisis of biblical proportions, doubts over Schengen, possible Brexit, rise of nationalism and social inequality, terrorist threats, not to mention the prospect of seeing Trump as leader of the free world or, worse yet, the threat of a monumental environmental catastrophe that would lead to unimaginable geopolitical chaos and human tragedy. Given the seriousness of these threats, it seems almost irrelevant to be worrying about the watch industry. And yet, as we have often repeated here, watchmaking is not like a modular habitat on Mars, it does not exist in its own sterile bubble, and it can hold up a mirror to its time. It faces the same dangers, and it also has to respond to threats unique to its own milieu, which are calling its own models into question. Everything seems to be coming to a head: the rising tide of smartwatches is upsetting the established hierarchies and beginning to reconfigure the game board, particularly at the entry level and in the mid-range (although when we asked our CEOs, who represent the entire spectrum of watch products, they were almost unanimous in downplaying the danger). This rising tide that the latest statistics released by the FH appears to reflect comes at a time when retailers’ drawers are overflowing with unsold merchandise. The market is saturated, and yet new brands are jumping into the fray every day. At the same time, serious cracks are appearing in the mono-brand boutique model. They are expensive – extremely expensive – and they are often empty (“Without jewellery, the mono-brand model is stupid,” Corum CEO Davide Traxler said bluntly to Le Temps). A return to the multi-brand model appears inevitable (Richemont is currently trying out a new multi-brand concept in China, under the name of Time Vallée, which is open to competition). There is no denying that the dizzying upward mobility of Swiss watchmaking was a way of responding to the growing chasm separating the mega-rich from a disintegrating middle class. But this ascent, combined with greater vertical integration of the means of production, is tearing holes in the historic fabric that underpins the pre-eminence of Swiss watchmaking. Many subcontractors have been hit hard. Quietly, but increasingly openly, jobs are being downsized (at the end of February Richemont announced it would be letting go 350 of its 9,000 employees in Switzerland – 2,000 of whom it has taken on since 2010). Euphoria seems in short supply. What will the watch industry look like in ten years’ time? There must be many people who wish they had a crystal ball. The encouraging figures announced by our Japanese friends, who are not afraid of combining fine mechanical horology with cutting-edge technology, may well provide part of the answer. Perhaps we’ll learn a little more when Baselworld opens its doors. A new model looks more necessary than ever. p
EDITORIAL In search of a new model ALL EYES ON… The golden move of Carl F. Bucherer EUROPA STAR ARCADE INTERVIEW Carl F. Bucherer – Sasha Moeri: ”We keep the golden wheel turning with our new movement A2000” BUSINESS RETRO-PERSPECTIVE World CEO survey Analysis: Watch exports 2015: the slowdown is easier at the top, but the happy few are increasingly scarce SIHH 2016 and the price dichotomy SIGNALS BRANDS After-sales service: Patek Philippe – The manufacture within a manufacture + Meeting with Laurent Cantin, Director International Client Services Interview | Case Study: Girard-Perregaux, Antonio Calce: ”Let’s show them what we’re made of” Anniversary: Raymond Weil – 40 years of family independence Anniversary: Century – Half a century in sapphire Anniversary: Ernest Borel – A 160-year romance Anniversary: Rudis Sylva – Ten years to preserve three centuries GALLERIES Tourbillons & Complications, Graphic Elegance, ICY Diamonds, Open, Chronomania, Bold. Girard-Perregaux Esmeralda Tourbillon EUROPA STAR ARCADE INTERVIEWS Laurent Katz: Pequignet – The last bastion of made in France Yvan Arpa: Artya – The spirit of Bushido Daphné de Jenlis: In the watch aisle of Les Galeries Lafayette DEBATES, OP-EDS & CHRONICLES Counterfeiters: Real, fake and real fake watches Analysis | Interview: 2015 results for the French watch industry WATCHPRINT BOOK SELECTION LAKIN@LARGE A zest for bargains SPOTLIGHT Emotion France Three new marvels from Casio Seiko Presage: Fine mechanical watchmaking, from Japan Citizen – 40 years of pioneering Eco-Drive technology Orient – The challenging spirit of Orient Watch
Read all articles on www.watch-aficionado.com
ALL EYES ON…
THE GOLDEN MOVE OF Manero Peripheral
The Lucerne-based brand revitalises its whole identity under baroque symbolic, unveils a very promising family of new calibres and further strengthens its collections. The least we can say is that 2016 is not “business as usual”! by Serge Maillard, Europa Star
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n the cover of this Baselworld issue of Europa Star, the Manero Peripheral is not just “any” new timepiece by Carl F. Bucherer. It is a landmark and a stepping stone for the family-owned brand managed by the dynamic Sascha Moeri. Just the tip of the iceberg, this new model is indeed the first to feature the new family of calibres CFB A2000, which will appear in future Haute Horlogerie models of the Lucernebased manufacture and open up a wide horizon. At the crossroads between the devotion to a sacred centurylong past in watchmaking and the desire to innovate in a radical way lies the heart and soul of Carl F. Bucherer. The CFB A2050 movement, which drives the Manero Peripheral, is one possible variant of the A2000, whose development took place over several years in secret on the manufacture grounds. In addition to its central hours and minutes hands, the new Manero displays the small seconds at 6 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock. This new watch movement is housed in a classically designed, multifaceted round case. Visual intensity is created by clear edges, soft curves, and contrasting polished and matte surfaces. The dial is a Manero classic: elaborately finished with raised wedge hour-markers. And, as is usual for the series, the time is indicated by faceted lance hands. The Manero Peripheral, with a power reserve of 55 hours, is being launched in six versions: the 40 mm case is offered in rose
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gold or stainless steel, each with dials in deep matte black or elegant porcelain white. Each variant is complemented with a fine strap crafted from alligator leather. The stainless steel models are also available with a steel bracelet and refined double folding clasp.
REVOLUTION IN THE ROTOR Let us take a closer look at the new calibre series CFB A2000, which offers a glimpse of what the engineers’ imagination has in store, as it can be used in a variety of models and enables new combinations of features. This new movement draws its energy from a double-sided self-winding mechanism with a peripherally arranged rotor (hence the name of the new Manero model). Carl F. Bucherer was the first manufacturer to put this design principle into series production with the calibre CFB A1000, consequently adapting the construction design to the new movement series. With its linear design, it is characteristic of Carl F. Bucherer both from an aesthetic and technical viewpoint. The Geneva stripes adorning the movement’s bridges and balancecocks are a tribute to Swiss watchmaking tradition.
Manero Flyback
In order to maintain consistently high accuracy, the watchmakers focused on a completely free breathing balance-spiral that undergoes no change in its effective length. The motion of the watch is calibrated exclusively using pivotable masselottes. These are small weights that sit on the four balance arms and control the inertia of the balance, which oscillates at 4 Hz or 28,800 vibrations per hour. This, in turn, guarantees the movement precise rate stability. The CFB A2000 is a universally applicable movement. Its basic structure was designed so that it can be incorporated into even more future models including ladies’ watches. Because of its impressive rotation momentum, this automatic movement is destined to drive a wide range of additional functions under devlopment in the watchmaker’s own development workshops. Thus, this new movement is merely making its debut in the new Manero Peripheral.
sen to seize this opportunity to put itself into motion and refine its whole brand identity. At this Baselworld edition, the traditional Swiss manufacturer presents a distinctly golden evolutionary look, paying tribute both to the heritage and personality of Carl F. Bucherer and to the baroque influences in architecture that mark the brand’s hometown, Lucerne. An approach meant to be lavish and discreet at the same time. “Carl F. Bucherer has a very distinct heritage that sets us apart from other brands. With this evolutionary look we are reshaping these roots for the future,” states Sascha Moeri. “The root of all is the personality of Carl F. Bucherer, a visionary and bold entrepreneur. His artistic talent and pioneering spirit laid the groundwork for what the brand represents today: an authentic brand that is deeply rooted in the cosmopolitan and exuberant spirit of Lucerne.”
A SPORTY 2016 UNDER GOLDEN AUSPICES One more thing, as the late Steve Jobs would say… So far, we have understood that the Manero Peripheral is not just “any” new timepiece, due to its innovative movement, setting up for future promises. Similarly, the timing of the movement’s release has been carefully calculated. Carl F. Bucherer has cho-
Carl F. Bucherer also comes to Baselworld with a series of novelties in almost all of its collections. Beyond the new Peripheral, the brand introduces the Manero Flyback. The chronograph newcomer for 2016 features the calibre CFB 1970, which is controlled by a gearwheel and also provides a flyback function, allowing multiple time intervals to be measured in quick succession. u
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Patravi TravelTec Black
Patravi TravelTec II
The automatic chronograph movement is housed inside a classic round case, 43 mm in diameter, and is available in rose gold or stainless steel, perfectly complementing the elegant Manero series. The polished push buttons controlling the chronograph function not only emphasise the classic character of the watch, they are also highly functional with their large surface area. The two sub-dials for the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the stop minute at 3 o’clock are recessed and combine with the surrounding raised border adorned with a tachymeter scale to underline the three-dimensional quality of the dial design. Another sporty watch is the GMT chronograph Patravi TravelTec Black, in deep matt black, distinguished by its three time zones and a robust DLC coating. The main feature of the watch is of course its imposing black colour, which emphasises the diamond-like-carbon finish on the stainless steel case and wristband. The striking design is rounded off with a black dial offering a clear display of contrasting lightcoloured counters, indices, and scales. Two time zones are visible on the dial. The third time zone is displayed via a red 24 hour-hand on a rotating bezel.
BLACK… AND WHITE In the same family, the Patravi TravelTec II, which was presented last year, now gleams in rose gold and blackened titanium. The highly vibrant color combination between the case in warm rose gold and a case back and pushers in lightweight titanium is rounded off by a black dial and a black strap. Measuring 47.4 mm in diameter, the enormous rose gold case has a bold presence…
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Patravi ScubaTec
The chronograph function in combination with three time zones, a specialty of the TravelTec family, is integrated into the case and can be seen through a lateral viewing window. The pusher at 10 o’clock adjusts the rotating bezel with a 24hour scale beneath the sapphire crystal: depending on whether the wearer is travelling west or east, the 24-hour ring can be moved forward or backward in one-hour steps. When passing midnight, the date also changes both forward and backward. The second time is indicated by the 24-hour hand and the fixed outer bezel, while the third combines the 24-hour hand with the rotating bezel mentioned above. The 24 time zones and associated reference cities are engraved on the base, with Lucerne, the hometown of Carl F. Bucherer, representing Central European Time (CET). Last but not least in the same collection, the Patravi ScubaTec model is as of now available in a 36 mm case. Contrary to the black colour trend that is incarnated in the Patravi TravelTecs, this model is dressed entirely in white. A white rubber strap complements the white dial and white ceramic bezel; a more discreet, slender stainless steel bracelet is also available. Despite its slim look, the watch’s robust stainless steel case can withstand pressures to a depth of 200 m. The new Patravi ScubaTec illustrates its connection with the ocean through the wave pattern adorning its dial. The twelve raised hour-markers, all three hands, and the 12 o’clock marker on the bezel are all coated with Super-LumiNova. The watch is equipped with the automatic CFB 1950 movement. The rotating dive ring in stainless steel indicates dive and decompression times. For safety reasons, it can only be turned counter-clockwise, ensuring the wearer knows when it’s time to surface.
Pathos Swan
THE SWAN, SYMBOL OF LUCERNE Also a ladies’ watch, but linked to a lake (or rivers of diamonds) rather than oceans, the Pathos Swan showcases the watchmaker’s long expertise in creating haute joaillerie watches. Precisely 922 diamonds and sapphires adorn the case, dial and strap of this sophisticated ladies’ watch. Many cultures regard the swan as a symbol of purity, elegance, love, and beauty, and it is also emblematic of Lucerne and its eponymous lake. Above a mother-of-pearl dial, top Wesselton quality diamonds and sapphires in various blue tones combine to suggest the image of a swan gliding gracefully over water. The many facets of the curved case are elegantly expressed by the gemstone border that follows the shape of the timepiece. This exclusive watch in the Pathos line (a collection which was launched in 2014) is available in two variants. In one of them, the watchstrap and the folding clasp are made entirely from 18-karat rose gold. The second variant offers a combination of white and rose gold, both of which are 18 karat. Both variants are produced in a limited edition of 88 pieces and are manufactured exclusively upon request. p
Li Bingbing, new ambassador The Chinese actress and singer is the new global “face” of Carl F. Bucherer. A way for the brand to reinforce its message in Greater China but also in the rest of the world. Indeed, Li Bingbing is one of the biggest movie stars in China and has also set foot in Hollywood, where she has played in blockbusters such as Transformers or Resident Evil. Perhaps even more interestingly for the brand, she is very active on social media and Carl F. Bucherer can reasonably count on her influence over millions of followers…
EUROPA STAR ARCADE
WE KEEP THE GOLDEN WHEEL TURNING WITH OUR NEW MOVEMENT A2000” Sascha Moeri, CEO of Carl F. Bucherer, on his brand philosophy, relations with the distribution networks and growing in a period of economic instability. What do you expect from 2016? I think it will be a very exciting year, because we already have a fantastic five years behind us: we have quadrupled our figures since 2010. This year will be challenging and tough due to the current economic conditions, the wars and a difficult market environment in key markets. But we are very well prepared with a great package of novelties that we are launching at Baselworld. The Patravi TravelTec Black is just the beginning… There is much more: the key is Carl F. Bucherer’s new manufacture movement. Its name is CFB A2000, an entire new ca-
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libre family added to the CFB A1000 family. The beauty of it is that we are not only talking about one calibre, but a concept, a whole family that opens up new horizons: each year, we will be able to come up with new models drawing on versions of this homemade peripheral calibre. What is today’s proportion of models equipped with your own calibres? And how much will it increase with the new movement? The goal is to steadily increase the proportion of models equipped with our own calibres. Yet we are proud to be able
to offer very interesting models in the entry price segment of mechanical watches, so the new calibre family will mainly be incorporated in the higher and luxury watch segment. In addition, the new caliber family allows us to implement the peripheral rotor calibers also in Ladies watches. An important development for us, as we strongly believe that also ladies watches more and more convince with outer design and inner values. A concept that drives all our creations. This strong development is supported by the establishment of our new state-of-the-art manufacturing site in Lengnau where we are substantially investing.
But does it mean that the average price of your watches will increase, hence that you are heading more and more towards Haute Horlogerie? In 2010 we produced and sold 6,500 pieces over the year. Last year, we sold more than 25,000 timepieces! This is a huge growth thanks to the variety of collections that we propose. To answer your question: on the one hand, the luxury segment will of course grow immensely with our new in-house movement with existing Haute Horlogerie timepieces; on the other hand, we have also increased the quantities in the entry-level segment. Overall, the balance will remain the same and we will stick to our current retail prices. Are your expanding the range of collections or rather strengthening the existing ones? Strengthening them! We have five collections and in almost all of them will we be presenting innovations. The first watch with our new in-house movement will be the Manero Peripheral, in reference to the peripheral oscillating mass, which is the DNA of our calibres. A Flyback will also be introduced in the Manero line, a beautiful chronograph in a very classical yet exciting design. I am especially proud of these innovations in the Manero collection. In the Patravi collection, beyond the already mentioned TravelTec Black, there will be the Patravi TravelTec II, a bold variation of the existing model in rose gold. Among ladies’ watches, we will unveil two Haute Joaillerie timepieces in the Pathos collection to underline our long-standing jewellery expertise – the Pathos Swan. What were Carl F. Bucherer’s bestsellers in 2015? Our key pieces are in the Manero and Patravi family. Yet every market has its preferences. In Asia, where they
favour a classical taste, it has been the Manero timepiece in its various versions, Perpetual, ChronoPerpetual or Tourbillon. It’s a similar situation in Europe. While in the US, the Patravi TravelTec and the ScubaTec are more in demand. In Russia and in the Middle East, you find the same two bestsellers as in the US. You have been quite active on the boutique side, opening lately in Interlaken and Dubai. What is the strategy, compared to the channels via traditional retailers? We have our own approach and it is a very important part of our philosophy: we never want to open a stand-alone boutique on our own. There are many distributors and retailers who have helped build the brand in recent years and we highly value their support to this day. We don’t intend to offend them by taking all their margins away from them. It must be the right location and the perfect local partner – only then will Carl F. Bucherer open a boutique. Take for instance Rivoli, our distribution partner in Dubai, or Bucherer of course in Interlaken. Building a brand takes enormous efforts, financially and emotionally. We will never take an aggressive approach towards the partners who helped us so much. Our group is family-owned with family values. Are you able to identify a general profile of the Carl F. Bucherer buyer? As I said before, customers in the US or in China have different preferences. Hence it is very important to us to follow the DNA of the brand. And thus it is one factor of the brand’s DNA that attracts all of our customers: the fact that we are very exclusive. Indeed, very few people will possess one of our watches: in 2016, we will serve a community of only 30,000 people. It is this exclusivity, together with the pursuit to express one’s individuality that mark the Carl F. Bucherer client.
What is the entry price at Carl F. Bucherer? Can we buy it as a first watch? We do offer interesting mechanical watch models in the entry-level segment, yet someone who wants to purchase his or her first mechanical watch will most probably go for what their friends buy. Once they have become an aficionado, and have learned about manufacturing qualities, movements and other details, the educated and experienced watch enthusiast will go for a Carl F. Bucherer. Then he or she will want a watch that not everybody else has on their wrist. We’re addressing these people - they do not follow trends but set the trend and have their own style. What is the split between male and female customers?
OBJECT ZAI SKI The Swiss ski producer Zai is our cooperation partner with whom we share the love for exquisite materials and craftsmanship. They mastered to incorporate stone and carbon in their skis and thus created very exclusive products. Similar to Carl F. Bucherer the production process is fully handmade with a wanted limited output. And the joy of racing down the slope with Zai skis – incredible! (Sascha Moeri)
The split today is 60% men’s and 40% women’s watches. Ladies’ watches have always been an important part of our history as we launched the first Art Déco ladies’ collection back in 1919. Lately the new Pathos collection has further strengthened this segment. What do you think about the arrival of connected watches? It is a very important market and I am happy to see so many Swiss brands investing a lot in R&D. That way the Swiss watch industry stays strong, innovative and competitive. There is certainly a market need for these products. However, our customers are looking for different values in a watch such as sustainability, handmade details in materials and also simply beauty of watch design. They might already possess a connected watch but do not expect one from Carl F. Bucherer. It is rather the opposite and they would even be disappointed if we follow a trend. Moreover, if we were to do something in the connected area, it should be really unique. We should not copy anyone. p
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BRANDS
AFTER-SALES SERVICE
THE MANUFACTURE WITHIN A MANUFACTURE Patek Philippe’s famous slogan, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation,” places its creators under something of an obligation to put those words into practice. If not, this dogmatic declaration would be just another advertising cliché. I thought the best way to find out whether this promise of longevity had any substance was to go and see first-hand how a company like Patek Philippe manages its after-sales service. I was not disappointed. In fact, I was blown away.
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RESTORATION BY EAR
by Pierre Maillard, Europa Star
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We will take on anything, and I do mean anything, made since 1839, provided it is signed Patek, Czapek & Cie – Fabricants à Genève, Patek & Cie – Fabricants à Genève, Philippe & Cie or Patek Philippe. Everything in our current collections is handled by our aftersales service, and the rest goes to our restoration department,” explains our guide Jan-Philip Senger, who joined the company in 1964. As he speaks, he gesticulates towards the benches where a hundred or so watchmakers are working.
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king secrets that have been lost forever. Here, however, these trade secrets are proudly passed on. When it comes to restoring or rebuilding the spindle of a gear-train that was cut out by hand not long after 1839, there’s no CNC machine that’s up to the task.
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Every discipline is represented: watchmaker, watch-repairer, restorer, escapement maker, timing adjuster, pivot maker, jeweller, polisher, micro-technician, assembler, case-fitter and quality controller. All the branches of a complete manufacture are here under one roof. This Patek Philippe department is more than just a factory: it is also a repository of watchmaking lore. People sometimes say that the cemeteries of the Vallée de Joux are full of watchma-
Let’s meet Franck Pernet, one of the ‘stars’ of this workshop, which is probably unique in the world. Despite his work demanding an almost Buddhist degree of concentration, he becomes garrulous and animated as he describes his job with infectious enthusiasm. “When I’m drilling pivots on the lathe all my senses are heightened. I listen to the metal, I hear the sound change with each micron, and it’s my ears that tell me when it’s right, when it’s time to stop.” Rebuilding spindles and gears is the basis of all restoration work.
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Everything begins with the gear train, the fundamental moving part, which is the most subject to wear and oxidisation. “Right up to the start of industrialisation each handmade watch was, to all intents and purposes, a unique piece. Standardisation only came in gradually. In order to restore or rebuild a timepiece you have to, in a way, retrace the steps of the person who made it, a century or more ago.” No sooner has he finished his explanation than he turns back to his bench to demonstrate the use of the bow. We are told it takes ten years or more to master the lathe – an invention that has been traced back to Ancient Egypt in 1300 BC – with the hair’s-breadth precision necessary. But however ancient it may be, the lathe is by no means obsolete. Once set in motion with the bow or motor, it is capable of performing actions that are invisible to the naked eye, so infinitesimally fine that only the ear, the eye (aided by a loupe) and the hand of the craftsman can detect them. Surely there can’t be too many people left who master these techniques? “When I arrived, 22 years ago, there were two generations. Now, there’s just one, and
I’m currently training up two new young lathe turners!” he says proudly. “But we work as a team. All the different disciplines have their role to play.”
150 YEARS’ WORTH OF SPARE PARTS There are not many people who know how to use a depthing tool compass, which measures the distance between a gear and the adjacent pinion, or operate a mandrel lathe (which, despite its rudimentary appearance, makes it possible to increase the precision of placing gears, pinions and escapements in three dimensions), or perform chamfering, knowing which particular wooden or metal file to use, or the bevelling and polishing of plates and bridges, flat polishing or rounding, or countless other skills, some of which very nearly disappeared without trace. Here, the tools and the activities that go with them are carefully husbanded, like a living treasure. And a second treasure is to be found close by, in the ranks of cupboards, cabinets and miniature wooden drawers. “The enormous advantage
B Dial C Stocks of old components D Wheel blanks E Pivot making F Balance pivot control G Control wheel pivot centring H Driving in of balance pivot tool I Balance setting J Balance adjusting K Wheel flat control L Toothing machine
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we have is that Patek Philippe has operated continuously since its creation, and we have never thrown anything away. Our drawers are filled with period components which were deliberately produced in excess, blanks dating back decades, which we are now finishing today. It means we can meet 90% to 95% of our restoration requirements. If anything is missing, we make it. You should also be aware that every watch made by Patek Philippe is catalogued in our archives. Using the serial numbers of the cases and movements we can keep track of the history of each watch. We call this the ‘carnet de santé’ or health record,” notes JanPhilip Senger. “We have 150 years’ worth of components, which is 6 to 8 million parts,” he adds. “It’s extremely expensive to keep these stock levels, not to mention all the tools, but it’s a priceless asset!” Alain Battmann, former head of the Restoration Workshop (he still works there, seemingly disinclined to leave) explains how the workshop’s structure evolved. “Before, the department was called watch repair, but after the incredible boom of the early 1990s, when thousands of people suddenly seemed to realise that their grandfather’s old Patek Philippe might actually be worth something, we were inundated with watches. That was when we split the workshop into two parts: one for everything from 1839 to 1970, and the other from 1971 to the present day.” He goes on to explain the procedure. “We examine the piece and start by cleaning it up, dismantling it, keeping as many components as possible, evaluating what can be kept and what needs to be replaced, and we draw up an estimate. Once we have been given the go-ahead we rebuild the gears, rebush the components, give them to the watchmaker to assemble, repolish the steel components by hand, lubricate, get the balance wheel/hairspring in
working order, and make adjustments. The same goes for the case: we replace the crown, refurbish or rebuild the dial, polish and check everything over, both before and after the movement is replaced in the case, which comes to 2 x 18 days for checking alone...”
THE TRACES OF TIME Watch restoration, like architecture, has its schools of thought: some feel it is better to leave some evidence of the passage of time, others want their timepiece to look like new. At Patek Philippe, the rule is to change as few components as possible, in order to leave the piece in its original, historic, condition. Twenty years ago many collectors thought differently, and it was usual for watches to be completely repolished. Today, it seems, collectors prefer their timepieces to retain some trace of their past. But whatever the aesthetic, Patek Philippe always seeks to leave the watch as close as possible to its original state. For example, the pinion axles are always the first thing to go. Generally, thanks to the extensive inventory, the watchmakers in the workshop can make them from semi-finished blanks. But if a particular blank no longer exists, they redesign this minuscule component and insert it into the original sprocket wheel. The same goes for the case. The ‘manufacture within a manufacture’, which is equipped with every machine that could possibly be needed, is capable of rebuilding anything, as well as soldering, filling and polishing. The service is necessarily personalised because, as the watchmaker at his bench points out, “Every watch has led a different life, it has passed through the hands of different owners, sometimes been ‘repaired’ more or less carefully on the other side of the world... Each watch has its own face, its own personality, its own emotion, if I can put it like that.” p
MEETING WITH
Laurent Cantin is Patek Philippe’s friendly and approachable Director of International Client Services, and he is clearly passionate about his work. He told us more about how the company organises its international service centres.
How do you structure your training programmes, here in Geneva and in your international service centres?
Does Patek Philippe consider its customer service department a profit centre?
It’s not uncommon to hear about very long waiting times for servicing.
No, absolutely not. We don’t even break even, and what we charge often doesn’t cover the actual costs. We lose money, but our absolute priority is customer satisfaction. In order to make aftersales service a profit centre you’d have to industrialise. There’s no industrialisation here. I can’t claim that we have the best after-sales service in the world, but we do have unique skills, and any watch that comes through our hands increases in value. We have earned our reputation because of our restoration ethic. There’s nothing here that’s ‘cobbled together’.
Yes, it can appear to take a long time, but we fully acknowledge this because it is justified by our handcrafted approach, something we are very proud of, and by the high quality of our workmanship. We apply the same adjustment and control criteria as we do for our regular output. But I can assure you that our clients understand, and we have very few complaints about waiting times, which can be anything from one month to a year, depending on the particular problems of a given watch, and the condition it’s in. For instance, we have been sent watches that have spent quite a long time under water. Also, whatever the nature of the work we carry out, the watch is returned with a twelve-month guarantee.
How do you organise your international service centres? We have 56 official service centres around the world, employing around 250 people, two-thirds of whom are watchmakers; the rest deal with administration and logistics. Last year we performed 84,000 interventions, including 30,000 full services. This figure is growing by 7 to 10% each year, and is far greater than our annual production [Editor’s note: currently 58,000 pieces].
BRANDS AFTER-SALES SERVICE | INTERVIEW
time, which is not bad at all. Every time a particular model is discontinued, we produce an additional run of components to cover our needs for the next 35 to 40 years. It’s expensive, but that’s how it is, at this level of quality. Having said that, the quality is also a result of our ongoing efforts to conserve and develop our most specialised areas of expertise. As well as maintaining the continuity of all the different disciplines, and refurbishing old machines, we make sure that the human skills are passed on, by training up young watchmakers to take over.
Your inventory of spare parts is particularly impressive. Apparently you have enough to last 150 years. Yes, we keep everything: components, diagrams and tools. Our goal – which is impossible to achieve in practice – is that nothing should ever be ‘out of stock’. In fact we achieve this 90% to 95% of the
Our training team is based in Geneva, and from Level 2 (*) up, everything is done here. We train 200 people every year, and the training course is adapted to the mix of products that the watchmaker will be dealing with at the branch he comes from. We also run regular refresher courses. Whenever a new collection comes out, all returns come through Geneva for the first year, sometimes longer. This experience benefits the entire Manufacture. And how do you guarantee the quality of the work carried out at your centres around the world? We conduct an audit every year at each service centre, to evaluate not only the quality of the repairs they carry out, but also the standard of their customer service, their communication and the manner in which the pieces are returned to their owners. Recently we have also introduced ‘mystery visits’. This point is not negotiable, because service is one of Patek Philippe’s ten core values. [Editor’s note: the full list is independence, tradition, innovation, quality and fine workmanship, rarity, value, aesthetics, service, emotion and heritage.] p
(*) The four levels of training: • Level 1: Quick Service, for point-of-sale watchmakers (1 week) • Level 2: Simple quartz and mechanical calibres (4 weeks) • Level 3: Complicated calibres (4 weeks) • Level 4: Grand complications, 4 modules lasting (3–4 weeks each)
WATCH AFICIONADO
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SIGNALS
700 million?
3.8% drop
Child’s play Japanese telecommunications giant KDDI has developed a smartwatch for children, scheduled to be released in late March. Kids will be able to call their parents just by talking into their wristwatch, and parents will be notified if their child strays too far away from home base. (MS News Now)
Swiss watch exports declined 3.8 % year on year in December 2015, with declining shipments to Hong Kong – the largest importer of Swiss watches – mostly to blame. Exports to Hong Kong fell 21 % compared to only a 5.5 % drop for U.S. imports. (Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry)
According to analytics firm NetBase, the Apple Watch has beaten Rolex on a list of luxury global brands, as measured by more than 700 million social media mentions and consumer sentiment for the brand. (Business Insider)
Sex sells A concealed erotic enamelled and gem-set gold pocket watch by James Cox of London sold at auction for $73,200. The rare 18K yellow gold timepiece was produced around the year 1775, and almost doubled its pre-auction value estimations. (ArtFixDaily)
Rival Market analysts estimate Apple’s smartwatch market share to be anywhere between 52% and 61% globally, depending on the report. Whichever way you slice it, Apple is still without a real rival in smartwatch market. (Tech Times) www.watch-aficionado.com is brought to you by Europa Star HBM SA, 25 route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, contact@europastar.com For full information on Europa Star click on www.europastar.com ABOUT US and CONTACT US