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-H:H/6 HOTTEST TRENDS 2016

Roger Dubuis: the charm offensive Bulgari, Hermès: meet the CEOs www.europastarjewellery.com


LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

Dear readers, It is with the utmost excitement that we present to you Europa Star Jewels magazine. Readers of our CIJ Trends and Colours magazine will be pleased to hear that we will continue to inspire you with the latest evolutions that we identify in the jewellery world. Additionally we take you through the journey of new insights about the women’s watch designs of the year. Enjoy!

I T

oday women account for 35% of global watch sales. Hence it is easy to point out the current gender imbalance and it is equally easy to identify a giant growth potential for the industry towards its feminine clientele. The signal is made clear by Roger Dubuis, for instance, a strong brand which declared 2016, Year of the Diva, emphasizing its collection Velvet! Not a variation on its men’s collections but true high-end watchmaking meant for women (see page 8). Of course, the boundaries between both “segments” are sometimes blurred. Another strong trend today is that of sober and elegant watches, coming back to more rational sizes, which can appeal to both genders. SIHH was a clear indication of the right way to reach the wrists of women. We are guessing that Baselworld will give rich insights too. We have spoken to the CEOs of Bulgari and Hermès (pages 26, 32), who have clearly confirmed the feminine signal. Enjoy!

Serge Maillard

t is exciting to see redefinition of perfection in jewellery design, from Jean Paul Gaultier’s creation of the ‘Broken’ stone for Swarovski (page 18) to artistic creations of emerging jewellery designers like Ornella Iannuzzi (Rock Vault page19). Art remains an inspiration for jewellery designers and watchmakers alike. It comes through interpretations of existing masterpieces like Hokusai’s Great Wave (page 40) or new works of art jewellery by Ai WeiWei (page 20). Yet in fine jewellery, unlike fashion, perhaps consumers often drive trends. Rose gold fine jewellery is one such demand-driven trend, proving itself to be far from a fleeting one. Whether combined with mother-of-pearl (Madame Butterfly), feminine pastel-coloured gemstones (Rose Gold page 24) or noir diamonds (Monkey Business page 34); it looks like rose gold is here to stay. What about pearls? Speaking to the Gemologue blogger at Inhorgenta, we discovered that pearls could be the next girl’s best friend.

What else is written in the stars? Well, celestial motions in the last year may be responsible for the plethora of exquisite creations in watches and jewels. We have flown to the moon and back (page 36) to bring you some inspiration. Last but not least, the loss of David Bowie reminded us of his role as a fashion icon. But did he influence watch and jewellery designs? There is only one way to find out. Happy reading!

Jeta B


THE CHANEL MOMENT


www.chanel.com


CONTENT

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COVER STORY

8 Roger Dubuis launches a charm offensive TRENDS & COLOURS

14 Gemologue – Blogger Spotlight

18 Imperfectly Perfect – Gems Of Fashion, Wearable Art 24 Rose Gold – Imperfectly Perfect, Perfectly

28 Madame Butterfly – Rose Gold, Bright & Bold BLACK VELVET by Roger Dubuis Case: Ø36 mm, carbon, bezel and decor set with 66 black spinels (1.3 ct approx.). Thickness: 8.77 mm. Dial: Mother-of-pearl dial, black Roman numerals transfers, white gold appliques at 6 and 12 o’clock, black Roger Dubuis and Poinçon de Genève transfers. Water Resistance: 3 BAR (30 m). Strap: Black satin-finish fabric. Clasp: Black DLC titanium adjustable folding clasp. Calibre: Self-winding movement RD821. Production: 88 pieces. Certification: Poinçon de Genève

MANUFACTURE ROGER DUBUIS 2, rue André-De-Garrini CP 149 CH-1217 Meyrin 2 (Geneva) Switzerland Phone +41 (0)22 783 28 28 Fax +41 (0)22 783 28 82 info@rogerdubuis.com www.rogerdubuis.com

34 Monkey Business – Year Of The Monkey 36 Fly Me To The Moon – Celestial

40 Breaking Waves – The Great Wave, The Botta Wave, The Ebel Wave

44 David Bowie – Tribute, Genderless Style 46 Heritage Brand – Grecian Royalty

48 Emerging Brand – Geometric Asymmetry EUROPA STAR ARCADE

26 Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari: the colours & flavours of Rome 32 Laurent Dordet, Hermès: focus on feminine creativity BRAND SPOTLIGHT

12 Urso Luxury

16 Master Exclusive

22 Miseno – Modern day romance with roman roots

54 Muzo – A legendary mine, an international hallmark 58 Emotion France EXHIBITION

50 Gems of Time –

The Paradox of the jewelled watch INSPIRATION

56 Chopard’s Green Carpet Collection RETAIL

60 Les Facettes a boutique dedicated to niche brands 66 WatchPrint book selection

The statements and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not necessarily Europa Star. Europa Star Jewels subscription service: 2 issues: CHF 50 International | Visit: europastarjewellery.com/subscribe | Enquiries: register@europastar.com


OU R H ER I TAGE YOU R L EG AC Y L O N D O N N E W Y O R K G E N E VA BAHR AIN BAKU BA NGKOK DERBY DUBAI DOHA K AR LOV Y VARY KIEV LOS A NGELES R I Y A D H S A N F R A N C I S C O S Y D N E Y VA L L E T TA VA N C O U V E R FA B E R G E . C O M

@ O F F I C I A L FA B E R G E

Fa b ergé proud l y u s e s G em f ield s c olou re d gem st one s


COVER STORY

ROGER DUBUIS

launches a charm offensive Drawing inspiration from the lavish world inhabited by 1940s leading ladies, the Velvet collection pulls off the seemingly impossible tour de force of retaining the DNA of an essentially masculine brand while creating eminently feminine watches. The collection is intended for the woman who knows what she wants! | by Serge Maillard

R

oger Dubuis came to this year’s SIHH with some rather unexpected props – a red carpet, mannequins in long dresses, film projectors – to recreate the atmosphere of Hollywood’s golden age. The forceful and uncompromising brand behind the Excalibur, with its exacting standards of mechanical watchmaking, was softening its edges to pay homage to the fairer sex. Every year the watchmaker chooses a different theme for the SIHH, and in the past we have seen new models from the Squelette, Hommage and Pulsion collections. This year, it was the year of the Diva! “A rather daring 100% feminine focus, but in the tradition of the strong themes we like to put forward at the SIHH each year,” explains product designer Lionel Favre. The Velvet collection, for women only, was quite naturally in the spotlight, with a palette of very promising new products. Right from its launch in 2012, this line very rapidly became one of the brand’s mainstays, well before the targeted advertising campaign that came out this year.

8 | COVER STORY | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

FLORAL GRAND FEU ENAMEL Lionel Favre

OPTICAL ILLUSIONS As Lionel Favre explains, the aim from a design standpoint was to create a true jewel on the wrist: “All too often in watchmaking, women’s watches are just scaled-down versions of men’s models. We wanted to create a purely feminine collection. The inspiration was the world of the Hollywood diva: cigarette holders, the femme fatale, red carpets, an entire world upholstered in velvet...” Nevertheless, the greatest challenge would be to successfully translate Roger Dubuis’ particularly trenchant aesthetic into a women’s model. The watchmakers met the challenge in a number of ways. Roger Dubuis’ signature triple lugs are in evidence, but the centre lug has a primarily decorative function. An interesting optical illusion is created in the play between the tonneau shape in the centre of the dial and the round case. The Roman numerals are pulled towards the centre, accentuating the impression of depth. The applied hour markers at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock are in contrasting gold.

One of the stars of the collection this year was of course the Blossom Velvet, produced in collaboration with a master of grand feu enamel. “The floral motifs that decorate the dial are cut out by laser then joined together in a hand-carved gold grid, which is set against a mother-of-pearl backdrop. Each flower is positioned with a central nail, which also holds the enamel leaves in place,” explains Lionel Favre. Blossom Velvet


Roger Dubuis has also designed three unique pieces whose standout feature is a dial also executed in grand feu enamel. “The Blossom is a tribute to Geneva and its floral heritage, but it is also a reference to 1940s powder compacts, which were often decorated with floral motifs.”

CARBON COPIES The Black Velvet is a foray into the domain of unusual combinations of materials. For this model, Roger Dubuis has done something completely new: gems are set into carbon by means of titanium claws (just last year the company succeeded in setting gems into rubber). Carbon

is omnipresent in this series: the case is made of several layers of carbon producing a wave-like texture. “We didn’t use this material for technical reasons, as many other brands have, but more for its slate-like appearance, its texture and its lightness,” emphasises Lionel Favre. In one model carbon is paired with Paraiba tourmaline, an exceedingly rare stone found in just one mine in Brazil, which has since been closed down because of overexploitation. Paraiba tourmaline is a thousand times rarer than diamond, and six times more expensive. “For the last thirty years there has been a kind of ‘tourmaline rush’. These days we are forced to look for old stock.”

Black Velvet Another version is set with diamonds. This is also an interesting juxtaposition, as diamond is in fact crystallised carbon. So the watch is actually made out of carbon, set with carbon! A third version in black spinels also makes the most of the tone-on-tone mood, in this case black-on-black. All three references, each set with 66 stones, are available in a limited edition of 88. The tourmaline model is priced at CHF 59,400, the diamond-set version CHF 39,900 and the spinel-set watch is CHF 34,600. They are all driven by an in-house automatic RD821 movement.

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | COVER STORY | 9


UNCOMPROMISING MECHANICS In the same collection, but in decidedly more ‘mechanical’ vein, the Velvet Secret Heart also has a strong identity, with a bi-retrograde jumping date, cascading diamond-set halfbezels, and a third lug that appears to merge with the case. The RD821B movement was designed to perfectly follow the shape of the case. This exceptionally finished model is the first in the Velvet collection to boast a watchmaking complication, although it should be noted that Roger Dubuis has never shied away from producing haute horlogerie pieces for women – here given further legitimacy by the Poinçon de Genève. We should also mention the Velvet by Massaro, produced in collaboration with the Parisian shoe designer, who specialises

Velvet by Massaro

10 | COVER STORY | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

Velvet Secret Heart in gilded and pleated leather. “This texture can be found on the strap he designed for us,” notes Lionel Favre. “We then adapted

the dial to ensure it went well with the strap, notably by using yellow gold.” This model is an extrapolation of the ideas we first saw last year in the Velvet Haute Couture. The designer is particularly proud of the Velvet collection: “All the watches in this line have a strong personality. Their complex cases, with the optical illusion created by the round and tonneau-shaped structures, demands a high degree of creativity. These watches have character!” Like their owners, one might almost say. “The Velvet is for women who are very sure of themselves, confident in their tastes and not swayed by brand power. Our strengths are without a doubt the design, but also the fact that we offer genuine mechanical watchmaking for women. We are young and we want to make the most of that. We’re not bowed down by the weight of our history – despite being very mature from a technical point of view!” c


BRAND SPOTLIGHT

URSO LUXURY I

t requires 100 operations, superb artistLuxury is quite the opposite of today’s mass “I try to catch the ry, master craftsmen, and a lot of love in production operations. Giuseppe, his brother essence of things a week to produce an Urso Luxury pen. Lucio and his son Riccardo are creators of most in the same way a In today’s mass-production Urso Luxury is the of Urso’s designs. While the brand relies mostly painter, an architect, epitome of slow handmade designs, bringing on local artists and workshops, they are also a philosopher or a the best of Valenza’s local artisanal skills and working to incorporate the latest technologies theologist would do.” techniques to produce world-class luxury accollaborating with partners in other parts of cessories. Europe, the US and the United Arab Emirates. Giuseppe Urso and his brother Lucio started designing high end Urso Luxury’s goal, however, is to continue to use the traditional jewellery in 1985, later expanding to produce luxury pens, all hand- jewellery making methods, which are increasingly endangered in made in their atelier in Candia Lomellina, 30 km from Valenza. Today, the industry, that make their pens so special and sought after. Urso gets bespoke commissions from Indian tycoons to Middle “This is the philosophy that guides us. You can’t rush these things,” Eastern royals, and the company’s turnover increased 235% over Giuseppe says, explaining that pens, just like watches, are precious the last year. luxury collectibles and Urso collectors expect quality every time. All Urso Luxury collections are unique in style and craftsmanship, Indeed, Urso luxury pens are not produced in a hurry. Masterpieces but following the rise of animal-themed design trends, Urso Luxury of craftsmanship, they are extremely rich in fine details adorned with unveils its Panther collection pens, a limited edition of fifty fountain intricate Italian motifs that can only be executed by skilled artisans pen pieces with a roller ball in each design. It is well known in the in- in love with their work. dustry that only the most skilled artisans can successfully portray the One such perfection is the Horse collection, an intricately rich design character of a wild beast in such delicate designs. Cartier has carried embellished with diamonds and solid 18K gold (see right). Best put the torch for wild beasts for almost a century now (see next article). by Valria Kuhar, one of Urso’s associates in Dubai who upon receiving Rooted in Italian tradition and run as a family business, Urso it exclaimed: “C’est superbe!” c

12 | SPOTLIGHT | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS


Liza Urla is the Londonbased gemologist behind the award-winning GEMOLOGUE blog about fine fashion and antique jewellery. Presenting to the 3rd International Pearl Forum at Inhorgenta, Liza spoke of her love for pearls, trends in pearl jewellery and how she entertains and inspires the thousands of jewellery enthusiasts who follow her blog. Liza in conversation with our editor Jeta B in Munich.

14 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

GEM Kreatives Photo Julia Flit

GEMOLOGUE

BLOGGER SPOTLIGHT

TRENDS & COLOURS

Why do pearls excite you? What is #GemologueXPearl? Pearls excite me because of my upbringing: they are in my DNA. I am in love with pearls, because they are organic. Like us, they are nature’s creation. My objective is to show GEMOLOGUE followers that pearls are not necessarily old-fashioned and dull; they can be contemporary and are easily combined even with the most casual of outfits to add a touch of simple sophistication. I am looking forward to visiting pearl farms in the Philippines in order to share the first-hand experience of South Sea pearl farming with my followers. I created #GemologueXPearl to engage others in a Twitter conversation about pearls. You can discover my world of pearls under #GemologueXPearl on Instagram.

Pearls have had a comeback in the recent years from Chanel to Balenciaga, Jason Wu, etc. Are they here to stay? Pearls will never be old-fashioned, because jewellery design is constantly evolving. Personally, my concern is what types of pearls are here to stay? I would love to see South Sea and Tahitian pearls become more in vogue. Everyone seems to stick with fresh-water pearls, which are, of course, beautiful, but a little on the dull side. The Pearl Exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum last September sponsored by the Qatar Museums Authority gave pearls another push forward. Several stunning YOKO London pieces were exhibited, and I have had the opportunity to try them on during my collaboration with YOKO London at the BAFTAs. By the way, the book to accompany it is an absolute must-read!


New trends to watch in pearl jewellery? Did anything catch your eye at Inhorgenta? One of the growing trends is adding pearls to jewellery pieces in subtle, intricate and intriguing ways. Watch out for cuffs and earrings with phantom settings or interlocking elements; floating minimalist rings and phalanx or two/three finger rings; open-ended bracelets and stacked cuffs. There are many contemporary jewellery brands out there who put together beautiful pearl pieces that are young and avantgarde. Monies’ statement pearl pieces caught my eye at Inhorgenta this year.

GEM Kreatives Photo Julia Flit

Who leads and who follows in the pearl world, fashion or jewellery designers? The consumer leads, and the consumer follows. Every fashion and jewellery related world is consumer-centric.

If you had to leave Earth forever, which three pearl pieces would you take with you? A natural pearl, a South Sea pearl and a Tahitian pearl. I am just joking! I would love to pick any three pieces from Assael’s animal collection: every single piece is beautiful and endearing. I will leave Earth with my pearl pets! Speaking of pets, I saw your cat in pearls on Instagram. Which designers do you two meow about? Melanie Georgacopoulos for her innovative techniques and surprising use of pearls in jewellery design. Miranda McCarthy for her collection of sculptural pendants inspired by Renaissance jewellers and indigenous birds of Britain. I absolutely adore her delicate necklace lovingly hand-made from 9K gold featuring one pearl on a hoop from Melissa McArthur Jewellery.

What is your favourite jewellery event and why? I love to host jewellery events myself... In anticipation of Valentine’s Day, I hosted a Champagne Reception and Jewellery Talk with one of London’s leading antique jewellery dealers. It was tremendous fun, because everyone got to try on some arresting antique jewels and drink unlimited amounts of rosé champagne. What lessons can big brands learn from GEMOLOGUE? Pearls are certainly neither old-fashioned nor strict. Pearl jewellery can be young, fun and inventive! It is all about the overall design of the jewellery piece. Going to Baselworld? Which booth you think will excite you most? Yes! I think I will be dazzled by every jewellery booth on show! Is there something we often forget about pearls? Many underestimate the length and the complexity of the process which justifies the associated cost of high-end pearl jewellery, especially the pieces featuring my favourite South Sea Pearls. However once they know the origins and the hard labour used to procure them, they will be more willing to invest in jewellery incorporating rare pearls as an alternative to diamonds. c

www.gemologue.com | @gemologue

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 15


BRAND SPOTLIGHT

MASTER EXCLUSIVE F

ounded out of perestroika in 1993, “We only employ artists Master Exclusive and its fine jewellery with passion who want fantasies quickly became known and every creation to be cherished as the finest jewellery in Russia. that bit better than Inspired by the beauty of nature, crystal clear their last, something drops of rain, the rays of the morning sun, great and truly unfordelicate flowers, dragonflies’ wings, butterflies, birds and beasts, Master Exclusive is regettable. This is why nowned for working with enamels, breathing each piece has its own life into the jewellery with colours and joy. At mood, music, its own the heart of each unique piece, hand selected poetry and, of course, stones are cut to the most diverse shapes: preits own history.” cious diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, topaz the beauty of London Blue, tourmalines, The creative quest of master craftsmen and A Platonov, founder of opals, pearls and the entire baroque palette of the subsequent implementation of the design Maester Exclusive. natural quartz. in life is a kind of game. To create a masterpiece, The creative process for each piece begins with you need to cleverly combine original design, the artist’s sketch, then the best are selected, appropriate technology and the precious matched with exotic stones and modelled on 3D computers. In this fragile material that requires special delicate handling. virtual world the artist can really be playful, swapping colours and It takes very talented artists, designers, goldsmiths, casters, diamond materials to create the perfect balance. The model is then translated cutters and polishers – and many hours of painstaking work – to get into wax, which becomes the mould for casting the precious metal. it right. The real value of our jewels is not in the number of carats, but Modern technologies have indeed opened a new world for the artists in the enormous concentration of effort, energy and imperceptible of Master Exclusive, allowing them to revel in their imagination. movement of the soul. c

16 | SPOTLIGHT | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS


GEMS OF FASHION

IMPERFECTLY PERFECT

TRENDS & COLOURS

KAPUTT

Jean Paul Gaultier & Swarovski by Jeta B

H

ave you ever looked at a Swarovski crystal and thought to yourself: it’s a little too sparkly for my minimalist or noir look? That might have been just the thought in Jean Paul Gaultier’s mind when designing a new cut for Swarovski, celebrating the brand’s 120th anniversary. One year of development and close collaboration between Swarovski and Gaultier produced an assortment of six ‘perfectly imperfect’ crystals: irregular in form and indeed beautifully ‘broken’ as the meaning KAPUTT (in German) suggests. KAPUTT made its debut with Gaultier’s Spring Summer 2015 collection for Paris Couture Week, and the designer had exclusive use of the new crystal until September 2015. Thereafter, the KAPUTT cut became part of the Swarovski crystal selection. Celebrating the unpredictable, KAPUTT accentuates Jean Paul Gaultier’s flair for edgy extravagance, the genius that earned him the label ‘enfant terrible’ of fashion. To complement the Kaputt Collection, Gaultier also designed the Crystal Scarabaeus Green effect inspired by the verdigris roof of the Paris Opera House and by the scintillating metallic green-blue-purple lustre of the scarab beetle once worshipped by the ancient Egyptians.

18 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

I

The Crystal Scarabaeus Green effect collection evokes an otherworldly, future-tech look.


IMPERFECTLY PERFECT GEMS OF FASHION

ROCK VAULT

British Fashion Council & Stephen Webster by Jeta B

F

rom unusual designs to unusual rocks, Rock Vault winners are the new rock stars of British jewellery design and they did rock the London Fashion Week Designer Showrooms. Curated by the award-winning jewellery designer Stephen Webster MBE, Rock Vault is a fine jewellery initiative launched by the British Fashion Council in 2012 to celebrate and support new talent in jewellery design. As previous winners completed their three-year Rock Vault cycle, five new designers joined Rock Vault in 2015: Completedworks, Lily Kamper, Rachel Boston, Ruifier and The House of Ana de Costa. Five of the Rock Vault designers have now been commissioned by Hearts On Fire, a multi-channel diamond and jewellery brand, to create unique pieces of jewellery using their world renowned diamonds.

Cubic Crystallization

Mount Zion

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT Ornella Jannuzzi’s work combines the souls of high fashion and avant-garde into distinctive and powerful fine art pieces. Characterised by harmonious composition of materials, colours and textures, her rings inspired by the wonders of nature are imperfectly perfect indeed.

“I aim to bring Nature to a precious level, and pay homage to it. I use unusual materials for high-end jewellery like natural elements, uncut gemstones and mineral À l’Ère Glacière specimens and I have a very specific way of setting stones. I always strive to give my pieces the most natural aspect possible, as if they had grown or been formed by Nature itself. I do not create a metal structure to hold stones, but I try to extend ‘nature’s artwork’ through the metal.” – Ornella Jannuzzi WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 19


IMPERFECTLY PERFECT

WEARABLE ART

TRENDS & COLOURS

REBAR IN GOLD AI WEIWEI

S

ince opening her gallery in London in 2009, Elisabetta Cipriani has successfully renowned international sculptors and painters to create exclusive wearable sculptures with the use of precious materials. Approaching the realm of jewellery for the first time, the artists are establishing parallels between their artistic disciplines and poetry. One such project is REBAR IN GOLD by the Chinese artist Ai Weiwei, renowned for his political statements through art. Unsurprisingly, REBAR IN GOLD is a commemoration of the 2008 Sichuan earthquake that led to over 70,000 deaths, most of them children trapped under the metalwork of poorly designed schools. Using gold, a material traditionally reflecting eternity and wealth, Weiwei draws attention to the sudden tragic deaths as a consequence of substandard government building regulations. REBAR IN GOLD is more than just fine jewellery design. It is more than wearable art. It is a memorial to the human life lost among the earthquake’s rubble. We wouldn’t expect anything less from Ai Weiwei.


REBAR IN GOLD

ELISABETTA CIPRIANI GALLERY When Elisabetta approached Ai Weiwei in 2013 he was not ready to share his work with her; he took some convincing.

“I am thankful to Ai for choosing Straight as the basis of this project. Although simple in appearance, the bracelet has a strong meaningful concept, which to me is what an artist’s ‘jewel’ should have.” Elisabetta Cipriani As the gold is pure at 24 karat, it is flexible and each bar is individually bent by the artist, creating the first form for the wearer to then adjust on his or her wrist, finger or neck.

Rebar in Gold Bracelets

STYLE MATCH

Courtesy of Ai Weiwei Studio

Rebar in Gold Installation

PRESTON ZLY

ANGEL IN GOLD Handmade shoes inspired by the Japanese sandal with an upper of primitivist hand woven leather.

Courtesy of Ai Weiwei Studio & Elisabetta Cipriani

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 21


BRAND SPOTLIGHT

MISENO

MODERN DAY ROMANCE WITH ROMAN ROOTS

I

nspired by the mythology, history and terrain of the Mediterranean, Miseno jewellery is a modern day brand of feminine and fashion-forward jewellery, founded by Antonio Cardamuro. After working for major jewellery houses such as Bulgari, Bedat and Buccellati, and being immersed in the world of fine jewellery, Antonio decided to follow his passion in jewellery design by paying tribute to the heritage of his hometown Miseno in Italy.

“I always was and continue to be inspired by Miseno, my birthplace. It is an incredible opportunity to pay tribute to my upbringing through my personal passion for fine jewellery.”

Miseno designs, which are then translated into fine handcrafted jewellery by a skilled team of designers. The Ventaglio collection above is inspired and named after the fan that Antonio’s grandmother used to carry. An icon of femininity, the fan symbolises grace and movement, elegance and mystery. The fan is one of the oldest accessories used and loved by Italian women, dating back to 400 BC. The Ventaglio collection is a testament to Antonio’s vision that the delicate lines of the fan shape Antonio Cardamuro His collections celebrate Miseno’s Roman past would translate beautifully into stylish, modern but they are also modern interpretations of the jewellery. Made with 18K white and yellow gold, lush romance of the Mediterranean. The brand logo features the an- embellished with diamonds, sapphires and pearls, the collection emcient Roman Arco Felice of Miseno, which Romans believed was the bodies the brand’s vision of translating Miseno’s history into modern gateway to love. It is with love that Antonio visualises and sketches day romance. c

22 | SPOTLIGHT | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS


ROSE GOLD

IMPERFECTLY PERFECT

TRENDS & COLOURS

“I make jewellery that never has a perfect moment”

by Jeta B

P

olly Wales designs fine handcrafted jewellery that does not seek to sell false dreams of glossy, magazine-ready perfection. Rather it offers an honest, imperfect beauty that is natural and attainable – a beauty that will continue to change and evolve over a lifetime and beyond. It is for women who want their engagement and wedding rings to feel more like them, more like their lives; warmer and a little closer to how they see themselves and how they see love. The process behind the backbone of Polly’s work is to cast an array of gemstones inside precious metal, to create pieces that always have unique and slightly unpredictable outcomes with a rough luxe, ‘from the earth’ aesthetic – like geodes split open, as stones break through at random points to penetrate the surface of the gold.

Rainbow stackable rings 24 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

POLLY WALES

The Eroded Disc Necklace with pink sapphires “This particular piece perfectly illustrates the serendipity of my process. Casting stones directly into metal creates unpredictable outcomes; the fluidity of the wax to molten metal and the movement of the stones within means that I can never be sure how a piece will look until has it been cast. Sometimes stones become entirely enveloped in gold, while others erupt from the surface, like geodes. The imperfect beauty of my work is very much dictated by the processes that I have developed, but in turn, the infinite possibilities and one-of-akind results that are produced only generate more and more ideas to pursue.”


ROSE GOLD

PERFECTLY

BULGARI

Serpenti Secret

T

he snake has always been the cornerstone of the Bulgari brand, the first to adapt it to a wristwatch. For over half a century, Serpenti bracelet-watches have been Bulgari signature pieces in fine watchmaking. Their new high jewellery Serpenti Secret collection lives up to this legacy. (More on page 26)

Quartz movement. 40 mm 18K pink gold case, dial and double-spiral bracelet set with brilliant-cut diamonds, brilliant-cut pink sapphires and brilliant-cut amethysts. Eyes in lapis lazuli.

FABERGÉ

Treillage Collection

I

f instead you sway towards perfectly aligned jewels, check out the Treillage Collection by Fabergé. Inspired by the Diamond Trellis Egg, created by Fabergé in 1892, this sumptuous collection of rose gold cushion-patterned jewels is studded with luminous coloured gems.

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 25


EUROPA STAR ARCADE

Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari

THE COLOURS & FLAVOURS OF ROME Jean-Christophe Babin was first introduced to the world of watchmaking when he was appointed CEO of TAG Heuer by LVMH in 1999. In his twelve years on the job he built on the brand’s sporty allure and longstanding quest for precision to make it into one of the most recognisable names in world watchmaking, demonstrating along the way that mechanical horology is capable of mastering the measurement of time down to the ten-thousandth of a second. On the strength of this success, LVMH made him head of Bulgari. From the largely technical world of a sports watch brand, in May 2013 he transferred to the Latin refinement of a brand whose roots are in jewellery. Was it a difficult transition? | by Pierre Maillard


When you were head of TAG Heuer there seemed to be complete osmosis between you and the company. You were the embodiment of TAG Heuer. How have you managed the shift to a completely different universe, that of Bulgari? There is one overwhelmingly important factor that comes into play: the city of Rome. I am truly in love with this unique city, its architecture, its art and its day-to-day culture, which are the deepest sources of inspiration for Bulgari, and the roots of its exceptional creativity, which has endured for 131 years now. And I have found the same passion, the same pride, in the people I’m working with as I did at TAG Heuer. There is a genuine obsession with design and creativity, and a very refined sense of taste. But there’s one big difference: Bulgari doesn’t only make watches... You’re right, there is a certain complexity due to our five parallel activities: jewellery, watches, perfume, leather goods and, let’s not forget, hotels [Bulgari has three five-star boutique hotels in Milan, London and Bali, three more are due to open in 2017 and a further four contracts are in the pipeline]. But this complexity is also an opportunity, I might even say a key factor in our success. Bulgari has moved out of classic luxury into what I would call the luxury of experience. The concept of service is at the heart of this experience, which goes beyond mere business. We want to bring the dimension of global hospitality to our boutiques;

o THE OBJECT

BULGARI SERPENTI WATCH

“Both the Serpenti and the Lucea emerged from our jewellery, and are in no way a ‘reduction’ of a men’s watch. They exude a very Roman style in terms of their opulence, their powerful architectural presence, their use of colour and stone-setting. But although their inspiration is Roman and Latin, these watches are also very Swiss in terms of the attention to detail in their manufacture.” (Jean-Christophe Babin)

hospitality Italian style, which means chic but warm. Bulgari is the jeweller of hospitality. Let’s talk about your boutiques. It’s becoming clear that the mono-brand boutique model is not a panacea. We have 300 boutiques. Clearly, profitability can be an issue in a shop that sells just one category of products. But Bulgari boutiques have three or four pillars to rely on. Not only is it easier, but there’s no doubt that jewellery is more of a ‘destination’ than watches alone, and from that starting point we can start to build bridges, create links. Bulgari is perceived mainly as a jeweller and as such has a very feminine image. How does this affect your watch business? Jewellery is 100% feminine, obviously. Up to 2010 our watchmaking was split evenly between men and women. But the launch of the Serpenti in steel or steel and gold (until that time it had only been available in a high jewellery version) with a price tag of around €5,000 considerably increased the proportion of women’s watches we sold. When I arrived we added the Lucea collection, with its round case and scale-linked bracelet. Unlike the iconic Bulgari Bulgari it has no visible logo, which makes it far more mainstream. With these three complementary lines – Serpenti, Lucea and Bulgari Bulgari – in addition to the jewellery versions, our women’s watch collections are now very coherent. Both the Serpenti and the Lucea grew out of our jewellery lines, and are not in any way a ‘reduction’ of a men’s watch. They exude a very Roman style in terms of their opulence, their powerful architectural presence, their use of colour and stone-setting. But although their inspiration is Roman and Latin, these watches are also very Swiss in terms of the attention to detail in their manufacture. Is Haute Horlogerie the masculine counterpart to High Jewellery? Absolutely. We have considerable expertise in this domain, and with our complications manufacture in Le Sentier in Switzerland we

can offer a pretty complete range [a result of the purchase of Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta]. I’m thinking of the Bi-Retro, the Octo Finissimo, which has the world’s flattest tourbillon, and our Grandes Sonneries. These watches also showcase the Bulgari style, in terms of the originality of their dials, the way the shapes are put together, the use of colour and the architecture of the movement. And on the subject of movements, not many people know that we are highly vertically integrated: 90% of our men’s watches are equipped with in-house Bulgari movements. The same goes for the women’s collections, where only the small 33 mm and 28 mm movements are outsourced. The Bulgari style is highly recognisable. It’s a far cry from Nordic minimalism, for example. Does this restrict you to a particular, circumscribed clientele? Roman exuberance, Latin values and the uninhibited warmth of their lifestyle are appreciated all over the world. Bulgari has a very well-defined niche, but its attraction is universal. We’re not completely focused on one particular kind of client, such as Italian consumers, for example. Quite the opposite. Our positioning is truly global: Asia is certainly very important to us, but our European base is very strong and we have a solid presence in the Americas, with 40 boutiques. Luxury is universal. Nevertheless, everyone everywhere seems to be putting on the brakes... Everyone is feeling the pain, but we have come through it relatively unscathed. Why? Because a line like Serpenti has no equivalent, no real competition. The more recent Lucea with its red cabochon was a game-changer. So when demand softened, all that happened was that the strong growth we were enjoying slowed down. Bulgari has a huge and vigorous creative arsenal, in terms of both products and marketing. The key to dealing with the fragmentation of tastes, which we are seeing everywhere, even in China, lies in creativity, in the special, unique flavour of your product. c

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

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ROSE GOLD

MADAME BUTTERFLY

TRENDS & COLOURS

by Jeta B & Serge Maillard

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othing can match the feminine vulnerability and sorrow of Madame Butterfly. Set in Japan, this true story of the unrequited love between an American naval lieutenant and his young Japanese bride inspired Puccini to write some of his most sublime and heartfelt music. The story of Madame Butterfly is far from a rosy one, but that will never stop us dressing for romance and feeling those butterflies in the stomach. Rose gold butterflies!

Madame Butterfly Matinee Omega’s De Ville Prestige ‘Butterfly’ with Sophia Webster’s Bibi flats will make your day rosy and ‘pearl perfect’!

SOPHIA WEBSTER Bibi Butterfly Shoes 28 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

OMEGA De Ville Prestige “Butterfly”

18K white, red or yellow gold presented on a white satin-brushed leather strap with a mother-of-pearl effect.

Madame Butterfly At the Opera Stephen Webster’s Pavé Two Finger Ring and matching long earrings combined with Harry Winston’s Premier Precious Butterfly will give you more butterflies than the opera.

STEPHEN WEBSTER Pavé two finger ring & chain earrings 18k rose gold & white diamonds


HARRY WINSTON Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic 36mm

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he Premier Precious Butterfly requires an unusual technique. In the stunning Premier Feathers, Harry Winston combined two ancestral skills: horology and feather art. With its new Premier models, the company is continuing to explore unexpected pairings and another highly original technique. The material chosen for this model – butterfly wings – is brimming with emotions and symbolism. The vibrant colours adorning the Premier Precious Butterfly timepieces are created using the fragile, yet extraordinarily iridescent, powder found on butterfly wings. Harry Winston designers successfully harvested and expertly placed this delicate powder on each of its dials, a technique that required three years of creative reflection and development.

THE MAJESTY OF GREEN Reminiscent of spectacular emerald gemstones, the Premier Precious Butterfly features the stunning and intensely appealing colour green. Still, each dial is as unique as a butterfly. Harry Winston designers expertly use the delicate powder with its extraordinary pigment to transform the dials into artistic creations. This powder is the only material used to create the unique motif and allows for a rare and mesmerising visual experience.

WHEN COLOUR SPRINGS TO LIFE Harry Winston introduces three other models that also explore this technique. With each of these timepieces, the pigments create a kaleidoscope of colours as they recreate butterfly wings. The dials catch and hold light just like the wings of a butterfly found in nature. The sapphire crystal seems to be the only thing keeping the butterfly inside the gold case, set with 57 brilliantcut diamonds. The timepieces in the Premier Precious Butterfly collection are driven by a mechanical automatic movement equipped with a silicon balance spring. The movement finishes – circular Côtes de Genève, rhodium plating and circular graining – speak to the attention to detail cherished by Harry Winston. WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 29


TRENDS & COLOURS

MADAME BUTTERFLY BRIGHT & BOLD

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ooking at fashion trends for Spring Summer 2016, perhaps we ought to pay homage to a different type of Madame Butterfly? One that is rooted in the 21st century and embraces femininity with boldness and bright colours. There is a lot to celebrate when it comes to bright and bold butterflies in jewellery watches, from Chopard’s Happy Butterflies to Christophe Claret’s Marguerite watch that tells the time of love.

CHRISTOPHE CLARET

introduces a new floral wonder CHOPARD Happy Diamonds Butterflies

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here are as many ways to show love as there are ways to tell the time. Christophe Claret has tried to do both in one go. As part of its very first ladies’ line – the Margot – the brand has released the Marguerite, a wristwatch made for women and women alone. The watch could be simply described as poetry in motion. It is underscored by a Butterflies covered in unique sense of playfulness through its seeming optical illusions on the mother-ofsapphires and brown pearl dial. Each timepiece – it comes in a limited edition of four variants – tells a diamonds resting on the diamond-set case. story, and inevitably it is one of love. Two butterflies flit around the dial, in the same way they do around a real flower, providing a playful way to commemorate the passage of time. The darker butterfly symbolises the female, which rotates every hour. The lighter one is the male, and just as in nature it circles around the female, indicating the minutes. So we begin to see why Christophe Claret refers to this watch as the “ultiIf only Puccini’s Madame Butterfly could have mate romantic watch”. But the romance doesn’t end with butterflies. The pressed buttons instead of waiting for many dial also features a second, more personal display. With one press on the years for a love that had no future. Well, fret not, pusher at the 2 o’clock position, the hour markers disappear, revealing the Christophe Claret has your answer at the push of message: “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately). a button. Ladies, he loves you. Tick tock.

Madame Butterfly

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Bold by Night

STEPHEN WEBSTER Fly By Night Crystal Haze Necklace, 18k white gold, black opal, quartz and black diamonds. Crystal Haze Earrings, 18k white gold, green agate, quartz and white diamonds.

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ome butterflies will only show their colours at night, in magical forests, accented with the pretty poisons of thorns and meticulously detailed moth wings. For the night butterflies, Stephen Webster has revealed his genius yet again in his seductive Fly By Night collection.

SOPHIA WEBSTER Bibi Butterfly Shoes

Bright by Day

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ooking for bold and bright butterflies you cannot pass up Sophia Webster’s Bibi Butterfly flat shoes. Combined with colourful SO KLARA scarves, they are the must-have accessories for the twenty-firstcentury Madame Butterfly! We popped into SO KLARA’s studio in North London to talk about the power of colours. Using spontaneous brushstrokes and a veritable rainbow of colour to make a visual impact, SO KLARA silk scarves are strong, vibrant and full of attitude. “I design to bring vivacity, joy and energy into your everyday environment.” Klara’s advice to Madame Butterflies is:

SO KLARA Espagna Scarf

“Be bright and bold. Stand a little taller.” WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 31


EUROPA STAR ARCADE

Laurent Dordet, Hermès

HERMÈS: FOCUS ON FEMININE CREATIVITY After a fifteen-year campaign to gain legitimacy for its watch manufacture, a campaign that focused on men’s high-end timepieces and which has a raft of awards to show for it, Hermès is planning to devote more of its exuberant creativity to ladies’ lines. Always with that slightly eccentric touch to each apparently classic piece that gives Hermès its spice. We met the director of the watch division, and veteran of the family firm, Laurent Dordet. | by Serge Maillard


You took over as head of the watchmaking division in 2015. What are your impressions? I’ve been with Hermès for 20 years, first in textiles, then in bags and now in watchmaking. I’ve noticed that watchmaking, like textiles, includes strong aspects of both industry and crafts. Our aim is to bring together exceptional craftsmanship with high-precision industrial processes. But what we’re looking for above all at Hermès is authenticity. If there’s no authenticity, often there is no rigour. Is your arrival likely to bring about a change to the DNA of La Montre Hermès? Absolutely not. Except that I prefer to call it Hermès Horloger, rather than La Montre Hermès! What I bring is common sense and the Hermès spirit. I would like to pass this message, this concept of Hermès Horloger, all the way down the chain, and make the end client aware of the artisans who are behind the products. Over the last fifteen years our teams have done some amazing work to make Hermès a true, legitimate watch brand. Our Slim d’Hermès QP won the calendar watch prize at the most recent Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, which further reinforced our legitimacy.

o THE OBJECT

HERMÈS NAUTILUS PEN

“Before I came to watches I was previously in charge of leather goods, then writing instruments, for Hermès. The Hermès philosophy is to systematically create products that are different, whatever the field may be. In the pen sector, which was new to us and already very saturated, the challenge was particularly tough. We decided to call upon the famous Australian designer Marc Newson (Editor’s note: one of the fathers of the Apple Watch) to design the Nautilus. In order to produce this pen out of cast aluminium and stainless steel, we tapped into the considerable experience of Japanese company Pilot. The result is surprising: unlike traditional pens, it has no clip; the design is minimalist and elegant and offers unparalleled writing comfort.” (Laurent Dordet)

What are your plans, in concrete terms? We are developing several strategies, beginning with women’s watches. The women’s sector remains our primary watchmaking outlet. In recent years women have been somewhat overlooked, because the creative endeavour has been devoted mainly to men’s lines. And that’s natural, because the last fifteen years have been an intense learning period for us, during which we entered the mechanical watch sector, which is largely masculine. We have built up a solid range of collections: Arceau, Cape Cod, Slim and Dressage, with a focus on manufacture movements and involving our other métiers. But it’s time we turned out attention to women! Could you give any examples? You will see some new models at the forthcoming Baselworld. The Slim d’Hermès Mille Fleurs du Mexique gives you a foretaste. We also want to reinvigorate our current collections. Our ambition is to seduce women both with jewellery and with affordable pricing. We will therefore be working on simpler watches as well as gem-set models. All our clients, both men and women alike, can stay with Hermès for life, beginning with the more affordable watches and working up to our exceptional pieces. Their common denominator is elegance. Watchmaking is one of many métiers at Hermès. How do you ensure it remains visible within this vast universe? We need to begin by giving watchmaking greater visibility in our network of boutiques. The problem is that, when our clients enter one of our shops, they often don’t see all of Hermès’s watchmaking potential. We therefore need to devote more effort to training sales personnel in the Hermès boutiques, to ensure they are capable of explaining and showcasing this wealth of opportunity. Our watchmaking

enjoys recognition within the industry and among experts, particularly men, but this has yet to trickle down to our clients. It’s a commercial challenge. Also, we are becoming increasingly selective with our retailers. Why? We have realised that, in times of crisis, the Hermès boutiques are more resilient, whereas with our network of retailers we lose ground. Unfortunately, this has translated into slightly disappointing results for 2015 as a whole. Like the rest of the industry, we are suffering from the slowdown in watch sales in China, a market we were overly reliant upon, but we are in the process of redressing the balance in Europe, Japan and the United States. Unlike retailers, our boutiques carry a wide selection of products, not just watches. Watches remain highly cyclical in nature. Today they represent 3.5% of Hermès’s revenues – proportionally, watchmaking has grown less in comparison to other métiers such as leather goods since 2000. At the moment, other Hermès products are achieving better sales, which is compensating for the downturn in watch revenues. Your partnership with Apple to supply the strap for the Apple Watch came as a surprise to many. This was our first foray into the vast world of smart devices, but Hermès has had a very good relationship with Apple for quite some time! The challenge was to come up with something creative, suited to a contemporary high-tech device. It was also a meeting point for two big companies, and an opportunity to surprise and win over young people. In my opinion, it complements our own range. c

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

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TRENDS & COLOURS

MONKEY BUSINESS YEAR OF THE MONKEY by Mr. E & Jeta B

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tarting on 8th of February, the second New Moon after the solstice, 2016 is the Year of the Monkey in the Chinese zodiac. In honour of the New Year – and no doubt in an attempt to appeal to an ever-growing Chinese market for luxury goods – a number of brands have released new creations. According to traditional Chinese astrology, the Monkey is a very intelligent, hyperactive and strong-minded creature. Harry Winston’s Premier Collection adds a new emblematic symbol to its collection, with the Premier Monkey Automatic. The star of the show is, of course, the diamond-eyed 18K gold monkey at the centre of the dial, which appears to be grasping the bezel at 9 o’clock. The tail winds around another diamond – this one emerald-cut – at 12 o’clock. A hyperactive monkey indeed! It’s not just the symbolic representation of the monkey on the dial that is inspired by Chinese culture. Harry Winston has taken the homage one step further, using appliqué and marquise-cut openwork evocative of Jianzhi, a prized Chinese art form used for centuries to convey lifelong prosperity. The monkey is suspended on a luminous backdrop made of pink mother-of-pearl, enhanced with flecks of 24K gold, each one of which has been set in individually carved hollows. In combination, it creates a magnificent dial with an impressive constellation of precious materials in pink and gold. The watch is wrapped in a rose gold case, and fastens around the wrist with a stylish black satin strap. Sparkling like any fine jewellery, the bezel, lugs and ardillon buckle are set with 74 brilliant-cut diamonds for a total weight of 2.47 carats. On the inside, Harry Winston also means business. The Premier Monkey Automatic 36mm is driven by a mechanical automatic movement that is equipped with a flat silicon balance spring. The circular Côtes de Genève finishing is impeccably crafted, and the impressive movement is visible through the sapphire crystal on the case back.

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THEO FENNEL Diamond Monkey ‘Art Charm

The Monkey is also free of inhibitions and guilt, Chinese astrology tells us. Jewellery designers have been inspired by this playfulness too. De Grisogono brings us the grinning monkey ring in pink and yellow gold set with black and white diamonds, from a collection not accidentally entitled Crazymals.

DE GRISOGONO Crazymals Monkey Ring

Theo Fennel brings the monkey to life in rose gold and black diamonds. This cheeky, impish charm is meant to bring luck and fortune in 2016. What can we say – it’s a monkey business!

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 35


FLY ME TO THE MOON

CELESTIAL

TRENDS & COLOURS

by Jeta B & Pierre Maillard

L SUNDAY LONDON Jumbo Moon, Autumn Winter 2016 London Fashion Week, Designer Showroom, February 2016

ast September we witnessed a beautifully rare celestial event, when the tetrad of lunar eclipses coincided with the Super Moon. The moon becomes ‘super’ when it reaches its full phase at the closest point to Earth, appearing abnormally large and bright. With gravitational pull at its peak, we wonder what effect it has on us? Scientists tell us that the Super Moon concept was coined by an astrologer, not an astronomer and, that it’s a modern day myth. Astrologists tell us that increased tidal forces make us experience intensified crescendoes and culminations of life dramas. Could this explain the abundance of wonderful celestial collections in fashion, fine jewellery and watches lately?

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Designers from Sundays London luxury nightwear tell us it is a Jumbo Moon, through an Autumn Winter 2016 collection of lush silk satin pyjamas and nightdresses that enfold the night silhouette.


The wondrous watchmakers at Jaeger-LeCoultre tell us it’s a complicated Rendez-Vous Moon, and a very accurate one. The real lunar cycle is 29.53094 days, but for most watchmaking purposes it is taken as 29.5 days. This means it loses one day every two and a half years. The Rendez-Vous Moon will be just one day out after 927 years. Pointless? Maybe. But exquisitely beautiful. The large moon, in almost hyper-realistic mother-of-pearl, stands out against a dark blue lacquered guilloche sky, glittering with a scattering of brilliant-cut diamonds. A star indicates the time of the wearer’s next meeting. Rendez-Vous? When would that be? The previous Super Moon eclipse appeared in 1982, and the next won’t take place until 2033. It is a rather long time to wait for a Rendez-Vous. But we know we’ll be in good company until then, with the Rendez-Vous Moon.

Celestial Art Charm

JAEGER-LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Moon

Moon Stacking earrings & ring

THEO FENNELL Celestial Night Collection Jewellery craftsman Theo Fennell tells us it is a Crescent Moon, lingering in the wonders of the night sky. The moon charms, rings and stud earrings of his Celestial Night collection come encrusted in diamonds and blue sapphires; a fairy tale for grownup women.

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 37


The one unmissable trendsetting show for the entire watch and jewellery industry, where all key players unite to unveil their latest creations and innovations. Be a part of this premier event and experience passion, precision and perfection in action.

MARCH 17 – 24, 2016


BASELWORLD.COM


GARAUDE Hokusai Collection by Jeta B

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araude’s Hokusai collection is a homage to the illustrious Japanese painter who inspired so many European artists in the nineteenth century. The Great Wave of Kanagawa is inspired by Hokusai’s painting with the same name, also known as The Great Wave. The Great Wave was recreated using titanium – a very light material. While very difficult to execute because of the unique demands of casting titanium, the wave’s motion is highlighted by the sharp colours that this metal allows and enhanced with diamonds at the crest of the wave. A great wave indeed! 40 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

GARAUDE

Hokusai Large Hoop

Earrings and Ring

Photos Estelle Hanania

Issey Miyake, Paris Fashion Week SS16

BREAKING WAVES

THE GREAT WAVE

TRENDS & COLOURS


BOUCHERON Epure Vague de Lumière

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he Great Hokusai Wave has also inspired jewellery watch designs. Boucheron’s Vague de Lumière, a reinterpretation of Hokusai’s wave, is born of a fabulous mixture of materials and settings — white gold, diamonds, and polished hematite. The amplitude of its volumes accentuated by the play of brilliance successfully interprets the naturalism so dear to the Maison Boucheron.

Vag ue sM

Me

rD

e Ve

nt brooch

CASPIAN WAVE

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sb use e i r sté

rooch

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Seven Seas Collection

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ighlighting the deep colour of the sapphire, coiled, overlapping waves evoke the rolling surf of the Caspian Sea.

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

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TRENDS & COLOURS

BREAKING WAVES THE BOTTA WAVE

Ocean Wave

© Jeta B

Necklace in 18K rose gold with rubies and diamonds

Nicola Botta | INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON by Jeta B

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rawing inspiration from nature, Botta Gioielli’s handmade collections are distinguished by their light and harmonious forms, made to mould into the wearer’s personality. The Waves collection unveils the harmonious grace of sea-waves presented in breathtaking rose gold designs dotted with tsavorite, ruby, and sapphire stones. The collection aims to reproduce what surprises us with spectacular forms and extraordinary natural environments. When asked about what inspires him, Nicola tells you how wind can draw endless cloud patterns in the sky, tree branches can be woven into harmonious structures and waves breaking on the sand can draw endless wavy lines.

42 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

“On a strong windy day on a sunny beach in Sardinia, a strange cloud caught my attention making me think that nature creates beautiful shapes, which you can admire only at specific moments and in a certain places...I believe that sometimes, wonderful scenes can create fantastic jewels.”

Ocean Wave

Bracelet in 18K rose gold with rubies and diamonds


EBEL Wave Diamond by Serge Maillard

BREAKING WAVES

THE EBEL WAVE

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iamonds have been talked about for ages; Jean-Paul Sartre – in philosophical book form – to Rihanna – in song form. Now Ebel has entered the discussion too – in watch form. The jewel in Ebel’s “crown” (get it?) of luxury timepieces, is the new Ebel Wave Diamond Dial. The watch features a luminous white mother-of-pearl dial inlaid with diamonds in an undulating wave pattern, drawing from its signature iconic bracelet with its wave-shaped links. A stunning example of 18K yellow gold and steel, the watch is a piece of jewellery in its own right. The watch is made for every woman who deserves her very own special red carpet moment, bringing sophistication and A-list glamour to any situation. Did you know? Ebel was founded in 1911 by husband and wife Eugene Blum and Alice Levy, in La Chauxde-Fonds, Switzerland. Ebel is now renowned for its iconic bracelet design with wave-shaped links. Seems like their work-life balance worked out quite well!

EBEL WAVE Model 1216268

Women’s EBEL Wave Lady watch, 30.0 mm brushed and polished stainless steel case, wave-patterned pink mother-of-pearl dial with 11 diamond markers (0.043 t.c.w.) and applied EBEL symbol and indexes, brushed and polished stainless steel signature wave-link bracelet with folding clasp.

EBEL WAVE Model 1216271

Quartz movement. Women’s EBEL Wave Lady watch, 30.0 mm stainless steel case with 58-diamond 18K yellow gold bezel and 18K yellow gold crown, wave-patterned white mother-of-pearl dial with 94 inlaid diamonds (0.575 t.c.w. diamonds), two-toned stainless steel signature wave-link bracelet with folding clasp.

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 43


by Jeta B & Serge Maillard

T

he loss of David Bowie in January reminded the fashion world just how important his influence had been. Four decades of defying the ordinary, blurring reality and fiction while toying with the avant-garde, have raised Bowie onto a fashion pedestal, adored by women and admired by men. From the 70s glam rock queen to the refined gentleman in the Louis Vuitton campaign, Bowie’s bisexual persona never failed to simultaneously stir controversy and awe. Unsurprisingly, designers and musicians alike have paid tribute to Bowie and will no doubt continue to do so for some time. A Vogue cover in 2011 transformed Kate Moss, a friend and a fan, into a young Bowie image. 2013 was a big Bowie year in fashion, not only because of his L’Invitation Au Voyage film promoting the Louis Vuitton Tambour timepiece, but also because Jean Paul Gaultier brought back Ziggy Stardust in his Spring Summer 2013 collection, redesigning the famous oneleg jumpsuit worn by Bowie in the 70s.

44 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

Anya Hindmarch, London Fashion Week SS16

DAVID BOWIE

TRIBUTE

TRENDS & COLOURS

ANYA HINDMARCH

At London Fashion Week 2015, the playfulness of the v-pattern tessellation by Anya Hindmarch in her SS16 collection, was impossible not to be seen through Bowietinted glasses: high street meets high end..

STEPHEN WEBSTER Lady Stardust bracelet


THE BOWIE LEGACY

GENDERLESS STYLE

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ore recently, at the 2016 Brit Awards, Kate Moss collected Bowie’s award on his behalf wearing the iconic Ziggy Stardust playsuit from his famous 1972 concert. Without Bowie there would be no Lady Gaga as we know her, and she has paid tribute to his iconic imagery many a time. In high jewellery, the Lady Stardust collection by Stephen Webster encapsulates the Bowie appeal. Featuring geometric v-shaped patterns accentuated by white and black diamonds and brightly coloured sapphires, the Lady Stardust bracelet and earrings are edgy enough for a rock star yet glamorous enough for an art deco madame. So is the Jewelry Chevron 30mm timepiece from the Louis Vuitton Tambour Bijou collection. Bowie’s legacy is by no means over, but it is safe to say that forty years later fashion trends have caught up with Bowie’s vision of genderless sophistication, especially in timepieces.

STEPHEN WEBSTER Lady Stardust deco earrings

LOUIS VUITTON

Jewelry Chevron 30mm

Under the artistic direction of Nicolas Ghesquière, the V became a leitmotif of the Louis Vuitton Summer 2015 ready-to-wear collection. Transposed into watchmaking, it becomes a hand-painted chevron on the dial, made at the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton workshops in Geneva. It is available in a two-tone version in red and white, or a black and white version. Kinetic miniatures measuring 30mm braided with a diamond bezel combine with a lizard strap in the matching colour. Each model is produced in a limited edition of 8 numbered pieces.

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | TRENDS & COLOURS | 45


TRENDS & COLOURS

Escada SS16, Paris Fashion Week

HERITAGE BRAND

GRECIAN ROYALTY JM Asscher Photo Jeta B

“It is exciting to present new collections at IJL which bring to life the spirit of my family’s heritage, in a blend of the best of classic and contemporary. Our aim, for the future, is to create elegant collections of jewellery that can be worn every day, yet are guaranteed to turn the head of any jewellery connoisseur.”

JAN MAARTEN ASSCHER INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON

by Jeta B

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he name Asscher will always be synonymous with the iconic diamond cut developed by the Asscher family: master craftsmen transforming some of the most precious gems in the world into legendary stones set into royal regalia, past and present. In their new collection, JM Asscher celebrate

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their heritage and craftsmanship, but in an innovative style. Artistic interpretation, and exceptional knowledge in high jewellery, have been combined to create prestigious contemporary pieces. Contemporary as they are, they would best complement elegant Grecian cuts such as Escada’s Spring Summer 2016 collection at Paris Fashion Week.


TRENDS & COLOURS

EMERGING BRAND Photo Jeta B

GEOMETRIC ASYMMETRY KATTRI

by Jeta B

T

he London based emerging designer Amanda Gerbasi presents a unique and minimalist style, influenced by the architecture of Brazil, her home country. Amanda moved to the UK to study Modern Languages & European Studies at the University of Bath. After graduation, she enrolled on a Business and Gemmology course, discovering her passion for jewellery design, which would change the course of her career. She went on to establish her contemporary jewellery brand KATTRI, pushing the boundaries of aesthetics by marrying minimalist lines and architectural shapes with beautiful gemstones. With a great sense of humour, Amanda tells you she does not really do fashion. Yet her designs at London Designer Showrooms could easily complement Roksanda Ilincic’s geometric asymmetry in her SS16 collection at London Fashion Week.

47 | TRENDS & COLOURS | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

Roksanda SS16, London Fashion Week

AMANDA GERBASI DESIGNER SHOW ROOMS, LONDON FASHION WEEK

“I don’t see myself as a trendy designer and I rarely check what new trends are. Being at London Fashion Week, however, I have noticed that rose gold pieces are preferred by clients and buyers. Since my designs work well with rose gold, I will take that into consideration in my next collection.”


EXHIBITION

GEMS OF TIME

The paradox of the jewelled watch

Dazzlingly colourful fine jewellery timepieces for women caught our eye at Salon QP’s special exhibition Gems of Time. We spoke to the exhibition curator Caragh McKay, who holds passionate yet lucid and frank views on this lesser-known exclusive segment of the watch industry. | by Serge Maillard & Jeta B

G

ems of Time, an exhibition devoted to high jewellery watches, took place at SalonQP in London in November 2015. It approached an exclusive segment of timepieces under the theme of ‘The Art of Colour’ – highlighting unique creations in precious, vibrant hues. We met with Caragh McKay, Telegraph Time editor and curator of the exhibition, which also featured illustrations by the fashion illustrator Nuno Da Costa.

50 | EXHIBITION | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

Illustration by Nuno Da Costa

Why did you launch the Gems of Time exhibition? I had the idea when I visited Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus. They produce unique jewellery timepieces once a year. I found their products extremely avant-garde. People think that jewellery watches are tiny cocktail ornaments but actually they are sculptures, works of art. I wanted to bring them into the spotlight. Brands put a lot of effort into the design of these timepieces but as they are not meant for mass production, there is no real structure to promote this segment of the watchmaking industry. At the same time, this exclusivity allows the designers of jewellery timepieces to work in great freedom, hence their audacity. I wanted to tell this story as an exhibition.

This is your second year at SalonQP… Yes, last year we revealed for the first time what is paradoxically a little-known facet of the world’s best-known high jewellery houses – the jewelled watch. This second edition gave us an opportunity to build on that, revealing further intricacies of the collaboration between the jeweller, setter and watchmaker. Together, they create jewels rooted in a craft tradition but make them modern by taking creative risks with artisanal techniques. Last year, the goal was to introduce jewellery watches as pieces of art. This year, I wanted to focus on colours. We started with rough emeralds: I wanted Gemfields to be part of the exhibition because their stones are very natural, in contrast with the ‘show-off’ cliché that surrounds jewellery watches. We also unveil the different possible cuts of the emerald, from baguette to cushion cut. Then we jump to the striking Montre Extraordinaire La Rose in white gold by Jaeger-LeCoultre! If you look closely, on the dial it has five beautiful sapphires: these little colours make a difference. It is a unique piece, a proper high jewellery timepiece, a sculpture. On the


The Essence of Timeless Design 18Karat - Platinum - Fine gems

IJO Orlando JCK Luxury

Trade Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 jyescorp@gmail.com www.jyescorp.com


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Do you see more complicated watches designed especially for women? Of course, all the complications were intended for men in the first place, but they are equally appropriate on women’s wrists. However, I think that this whole idea of complications for women is a nonsense. If you like complications as a human being, you buy them! Personally, I am interested in how the design was engineered on a watch. To me, it is not about men or women. The question should be: do you like technical watches or not? Still, the market seems to be going in the direction of technical watches for women… The only reason the demand is changing is because the market has been focused on men’s watches for so long! Now brands realise the purchasing power of women. But in the end, if you engineer your watches in a genuinely creative way, for instance by combining jewellery and complications like in the Rendez-Vous collection, it does not matter 52 | EXHIBITION | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

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wrist, it feels like a flower. As a brand, JaegerLeCoultre is really reinforcing its activities in high jewellery. We also showcase complications for women, the celestial watches in their Rendez-Vous collection. These are strong watches, not cocktail watches!

what the market dictates. You create brilliant timepieces. There is also a virtuous circle unrolling: the more complicated watches are launched, the more educated women become about horology. Still, I refuse to reduce it to a men versus women phenomenon. You also present vintage inspired timepieces by Piaget. Are remakes a strong trend today? Their cuff watches are indeed heritage pieces, inspired by the 1970s. The reason I wanted Piaget to be part of the exhibition was particularly because of their semi-precious stone dials, but also because they started inviting fashionable women to

wear watches in the 1970s, like Jacqueline Kennedy. It was glamorous but also very avant-garde in the design again, which is a common feature of all watches exhibited here. They use a very fine embroidery technique and their abstract dial is extraordinary. Another part of your exhibition is devoted to rather densely ornamented timepieces by British jeweller Backes & Strauss… We chose to invite them because of their British heritage and also because the design of all of their timepieces is inspired by London architecture. If you look at the original designs of John Nash, the creator of Regent Street, you will find similar shapes in their watches. Their timepieces look like the paving, the cobblestones of the street. Indeed, they don’t look like any other watch. c


The Essence of Timeless Design 18Karat - Platinum - Fine gems

IJO Orlando JCK Luxury LUX1011

Trade Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 jyescorp@gmail.com www.jyescorp.com


BRAND SPOTLIGHT

MUZO

A LEGENDARY MINE

AN INTERNATIONAL HALLMARK

F

or over five centuries, MUZO has been MUZO’s mission offering its finest emeralds to the world is not only to from a sacred gemstone nest amidst deliver the best cut the lush vegetation and unique geology of the emeralds in the mystic Colombian Andes. Owing to their colour and vibrant radiance, their world, but to also size and clarity, MUZO gems were favoured by bring revolutionary the Spanish and European Courts, the Mughal changes in the rulers and Napoleonic emperors. They became industry practices in the most coveted emeralds by the greatest jewelterms of certification lery houses, and centre pieces in iconic jewellery sets worn by both celebrities and royals such as and traceability. Elizabeth Taylor and Queen Elizabeth II. MUZO is now acquiring historic masterpieces for the MUZO Private collection, like the legendary Atocha cross and ring and a sumptuous orb from the 17th Century. At Baselworld, MUZO is writing a new chapter of its legendary history by launching a unique emerald brand and a worldwide hallmark. The Company is not only reviving a legendary mine, but also repositioning emerald as a Colombian national pride. MUZO has a team of world-class master artisans in its own cutting workshop in Bogota, and collaborates with ateliers around the world to provide emeralds with the utmost in quality, beauty and nobility.

The legendary Atocha cross

54 | BRAND SPOTLIGHT | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS


Committed to ethically mined and responsibly sourced stones, MUZO is leading a mining revolution, by improving its mining techniques in tandem with living and working conditions of its workforce. Promoting the mine-to-market approach and integrating the supply chain from the top down, MUZO now controls the entire process from extraction through cutting, all the way to the distribution of its emerald collections. From intrinsic gem attributes to corporate social responsibility, MUZO most prestigious emeralds are certified by renowned international labs (Gemtech, SSEF, Gübelin, AGL, GRS). Today, MUZO is also the first and only colour stone brand to deliver an in-house certificate of origin and traceability (certified ISO 9000) for all of its gems.

A GRAND LAUNCH AT BASELWORLD 2016 MUZO is exhibiting a collection of more than 2000 exceptional emeralds, comprising of various cuts, colours, hues, pairs as well as outstanding pieces such as a pair of emerald-cut specimens weighing 40.41 carats and 42.25 carats. It is also introducing an innovative take on the ‘cabochon’, one of the oldest cut styles. Jewellery brands and designers will have the opportunity to be inspired by the most desirable ‘sugarloaf cabochon’ cuts with six or eight cut sides.

HIGH JEWELLERY The creative potential of MUZO stones will be celebrated by the launch of its first high jewellery collection made in collaboration with four talented international designers: Antoine Sandoz, Studio Naio, Elie Top, Shaun Leane and Solange Azagury-Partridge. c

POST BASELWORLD May 2016, GENEVA: A new showroom opening. Spring Summer 2016: Global tour of the MUZO collections.

WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS | BRAND SPOTLIGHT | 55


INSPIRATION

CHOPARD’S GREEN CARPET Collection, launched in 2013, is where ethics meet aesthetics. Through the “Journey to Sustainable Luxury” project, Chopard is affirming its commitment to the highest standards of sustainable development, fulfilling the demands of the Green Carpet Challenge label. The collection features a design that encompasses the harmony of the palm’s natural curves and its finely veined leaflets. The jewellery pieces are set with subtly graded marquise-cut diamonds sourced from the IGC group, a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC).


DON’T MISS THE NEXT INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW. WWW.VICENZAORO.COM follow us on: facebook.com/vicenzaoro twitter.com/xvicenzaoro


BRAND SPOTLIGHT

EMOTION FRANCE Nearly 50 French watches, clocks and jewellery brands will be present at Baselworld from 17th to 24th of March 2016. Among them, nearly 20 brands will be dedicated to jewellery. Come to visit us at Baselworld and discover the latest French creations!

Altesse

Garaude

Groupe GL

Korloff

Inès De La Fressange

Isabelle Langlois

Groupe GL

Les Georgettes

Lydia Courteille

Groupe GL

Masviel

Messika

Marcel Robbez Masson

Murat

Nina Ricci

Oressence

Pacôma

Marcel Robbez Masson

Groupe GL

Marcel Robbez Masson

Schmittgall

58 | SPOTLIGHT | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

Kenzo Groupe GL

Porchet


WATCHES, JEWELLERY & HIGH JEWELLERY HORLOGERIE, BIJOUTERIE & JOAILLERIE

HALL 2

HALL 1 Korloff

1.1 A63

Ambre

Messika Design

1.1 B05

Arthus-Bertrand

2.1 M21

Michel Herbelin

1.1 A59

Berthet

2.2 F38

Pierre Lannier

1.2 A27

Dodane 1857

2.2 F40

Saint-Honoré

1 .1 E 2 1

FOB

2.2 F31

SMB

1.2 A09

Groupe GL

2.1 L02

HALL 3

Groupe TWC

2.0 C75

Isa France

2.0 D71

Alain Boite

3.1 D25

Isabelle Langlois

2.1 N81

Garaude

3.1 A09

Lydia Courteille

2.1 M82

Marc Princ

3.1 A07

Marcel Robbez Masson

2.1 A61

Marcel Poncet

3.1 E23

Porchet

2.1 L58

Piat

3.1 D01

Robur

2.0 F67

Schmittgall

2.1 M58

Trendy Elements

2.0 J23

Utinam

2.2 F44

PALACE Péquignet

O F. 5 A

Verlux

2.0 K65

Waskoll

2.1 G80

PRESS AND INFORMATION - STAND 1.0 V03 CITY LOUNGE SOUTH

www.emotionfrance.com

2.0 A13


RETAIL

LES FACETTES

a boutique dedicated to niche brands Standing against the tide of vertical integration currently sweeping the luxury industry, the new Geneva boutique Les Facettes is offering handcrafted products at affordable prices. It hopes to attract clients who want to express their individuality with exclusive products. It’s a bold wager. We went to take a look around. | by Serge Maillard

Open since September 2015, it now represents nine jewellery and accessory designers, for most of whom it is the sole agent in Switzerland: GB Enigma, Wendy Yue, Masterstrokes, Mattia Cielo, Scavia, Roxalana, Thee Wild, Bao Bao Wan Fine Jewellery and Michele Della Valle (see our selection). “In the future, it will vary; we may have seven or eleven brands. Our concept is to be a living boutique, a salon, a cultural space that can also welcome special guest stars for short periods,” explains Vivien Yakopin, who was entrusted with the task of developing the shop by her Swiss investors.

N

How have your four months been? “I’ve been amazed by the number of customers. We began making major sales from the first day we opened. Local clients tend to go for more affordable items compared with foreign customers. That’s the Swiss spirit – they’re pragmatic and don’t like to show off, and that translates to jewellery for everyday wear. In any case, our choice of products seems to have hit the right note.”

estled between Geneva’s upmarket Rue du Rhône and the more democratic Rue du Marché, the new jewellery boutique Les Facettes mirrors its geographical location and lives up to its name. It offers a wide range of products, from the affordable to the ultra-exclusive, from CHF 1,000 to a million, from bracelets to cufflinks.


From right to left and top to bottom:

MADE-TO-MEASURE IS THE WAY TO GO Vivien Yakopin has observed a growing demand for unique pieces and limited editions. Although the brands she represents are not the most well-known names in the industry, their designs are quite unique. “We don’t want to turn up at a cocktail party and find everyone’s wearing the same necklace! Luxury these days is not so much about price, it’s about rarity.” Having worked for major companies including Sotheby’s and Van Cleef & Arpels, the manager is now staking her reputation on niche products and smaller brands. “The general trend is still for vertical integration. We want to offer the opposite: small brands and personalised service, which sets us apart from groups that own fifty different brands and have armies of designers. It’s the niche of the future. We’re seeing more and more demand for bespoke products, not just in jewellery but in cars and shoes, for example.” 62 | RETAIL | WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS

Wendy Yue, Thee Wild, Scavia, Michele Della Valle, Mattia Cielo, GB Enigma, Masterstrokes, Roxalana, Bao Bao Wan Fine Jewellery That explains the choice of brands present: they are often built around a single person, a creator or artist like Michele Della Valle, with whom it is possible have a direct link, a one-on-one conversation. Another criterion is originality, both aesthetic and technical, such as in Mattia Cielo’s complex rings or the Roxalana necklaces that can easily be shortened or converted into bracelets. Every brand offers made-to-measure products, whether the client wants to start from a blank sheet of paper or merely swap an emerald for a ruby. The boutique caters for children too, offering baby jewellery. c

LES FACETTES

Rue du Rhône 40, 1204 Geneva, Switzerland www.lesfacettes.com


« Not just a job, but a passion Not just a glance, but a vision Not just a skill, but an expertise » Arnaud HAEFELIN

Gainerie 91 CEO

www.gainerie91.com info@gainerie91.com +33 (0) 1 69 03 21 53

Gainerie 91 - 11, Rue Mercure 91230 Montgeron - FRANCE Packin’G91 SA - Rue de Montagu 38 - 2520 La Neuveville - SUISSE

www.packing91.ch info@packing.ch +41 3 27 51 22 53


SEPTEMBER

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

135,000 square metres gross exhibition space Over 3,750 exhibitors from 50 countries & regions Over 57,600 buyers from all over the world Over

Theme Pavilion Highlights: The FINE DESIGN PAVILION hosts over 70 internationally renowned jewellery companies, bringing to the city exquisite jewellery set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejewelled watches, invaluable antique and vintage jewellery and exclusive one-offs from around the world. Hall 2 The FINE GEM PAVILION is dedicated to the world’s finest loose diamonds, 2號展覽館 pearls and gemstones. Over 50 esteemed exhibitors from around the world Halls 5, 7, 9 & 11 5, 7, 9及11號展覽館 will display a variety of loose gems of the highest quality. Airport Express 機場快線

Grand Foyer 大會堂 前廳

Hall 1

H

1號展覽館

The HONG KONG PREMIER PAVILION is the perfect setting to show Halls 3, 6, 8 & 10 3, 6, 8及10號展覽館 what Hong Kong has to offer to the world’s luxury markets as a jewellery powerhouse. It features over 40 of the city’s brightest brands in a prestigious and elegant setting befitting their exquisite masterpieces. Hall 5D 展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 3E 大堂

Hall 2

2號展覽館

Halls 5B & 5C Hall 5E Halls 5Fover & 5G The INTERNATIONAL PREMIER PAVILION features 70 prestigious 展覽廳 5B及5C 展覽廳 5E 展覽廳 5F 及 5G Grand Hall Mezzanine 4 大堂中樓companies 4 Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4 君爵廳及大堂中樓 4 international jewellery presenting prominent jewellery brands 大會堂 Halls 3B & 3C Halls 3F & 3G Halls 3C, 3D & 3E 展覽廳 3B 及 3C 展覽廳 3F 及 3G 展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E and theirMezzanine latest collections. 2 大堂中樓 2

Grand Foyer 大會堂 前廳

Hall 1

1號展覽館

Hall 1 Concourse 展覽廳1大堂 機場快線

Convention Hall 會議廳

Harbour Road 2號展覽館 Entrance

Theme pavilions housed in two world-class venues: 包裝、工具 及設備

鑽石

9及11號展覽館

11號展覽館

AsiaWorld-Expo • Gemstones • Diamonds • Pearls • Packaging, Tools & Equipment • Fine Gem Pavilion 2號展覽館

Halls 1D & 1E 展覽廳 1D 及 1E

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C 展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

Expo Drive Entrance 博覽道入口

港灣道入口

寶石 精品館

鑽石

5及7號展覽館

9號展覽館

珍珠 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre 1號展覽館 • Hong Kong Pavilion • Bridal Jewellery Pavilion 寶石 • Hong Kong Premier Pavilion • International Fine Jewellery 3, 6, 8及10號展覽館 • International Premier Pavilion • Antique & Vintage Jewellery • Fine Design Pavilion • Asian Fine Jewellery 珍珠首飾、純銀首飾、製成首飾及珠寶配件 純銀首飾 • Designer Arena • Silver Jewellery 婚嫁首飾 • Jadeite Gallery • Jewellery Accessories 純銀首飾 • Pearl Jewellery & Finished Jewellery 亞洲珠寶首飾 展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 5E

展覽廳 3E 大堂

展覽廳 5B及5C

大會堂 前廳

AsiaWorld-Expo

珠寶精品館

純銀首飾 國際藝粹館

大會堂

鑽石

展覽廳 5F 及 5G

設計師創意廊

大堂中樓 4

7號展覽館

國際珠寶首飾

展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

展覽廳 3F 及 3G

名貴珠寶首飾 大堂中樓 2 Airport Express 香港館

香港藝粹館

展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

展覽廳 1D 及 1E

Packaging, 翡翠廊 展覽廳1大堂 Fine Gem Tools & Diamonds 博覽道入口 Pavilion Equipment Halls 9 &11

1號展覽館

Hall 9

Hall 11

君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

香港館

展覽廳 3B 及 3C

珍珠

大會堂 前廳

Hall 2

古董及古典首飾

Grand Foyer

會議廳

Diamonds

港灣道入口

Halls 5 & 7

Pearls

Ja

Hall 1

Gemstones

Halls 3, 6, 8 & 10

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

Silver Jewellery Hall 5D

Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery, Finished Jewellery & Jewellery Accessories

Hall 5E

Bridal Jewellery Pavilion Hall 3E Concourse

Silver Jewellery Hall 2

Grand Foyer

機場快線

Halls 3B & 3C

Fine Jewellery

lls 5 & 7

Pearls Hall 1

包裝、工具 Jadeite Gallery 及設備 11號展覽館

Halls 5F & 5G

Silver Jewellery Mezzanine 4 International Premier Pavilion

Grand Hall

amonds

Asian Fine Jewellery

Halls 5B & 5C

Fine Design Pavilion

鑽石 Hall 1 Concourse

9及11號展覽館

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C 精品館

9號展覽館 Expo Drive Entrance

Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4

Hong Kong Pavilion Halls 3C, 3D & 3E

Mezzanine 2

Hong 寶石Kong Pavilion

Designer Arena

鑽石

5及7號展覽館

International Fine Jewellery Halls 3F & 3G 2號展覽館 Antique & Vintage Jewellery

Hong Kong Premier Pavilion Halls 1D & 1E

Harbour Road Entrance

Convention Hall

珍珠

1號展覽館

寶石

3, 6, 8及10號展覽館

Information as of December 2015

大會堂 前廳


The

WORLD’S NUMBER ONE Fine Jewellery Event Hall 5D 展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 3E 大堂

Halls 5B & 5C 展覽廳 5B及5C

Grand Hall 大會堂

Hall 5E 展覽廳 5E

Mezzanine 4 大堂中樓 4

Hall 1 Concourse 展覽廳1大堂

Halls 5F & 5G 展覽廳 5F 及 5G

Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4 君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

Halls 3B & 3C 展覽廳 3B 及 3C Mezzanine 2 大堂中樓 2

Halls 3F & 3G 展覽廳 3F 及 3G

Halls 3C, 3D & 3E 展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

Halls 1D & 1E 展覽廳 1D 及 1E

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C 展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

Convention Hall 會議廳

Harbour Road Entrance 港灣道入口

Expo Drive Entrance 博覽道入口

珍珠首飾、純銀首飾、製成首飾及珠寶配件

純銀首飾 展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 5E

婚嫁首飾 展覽廳 3E 大堂

純銀首飾

亞洲珠寶首飾

展覽廳 5B及5C

珠寶精品館

純銀首飾 國際藝粹館

展覽廳 5F 及 5G

設計師創意廊

大堂中樓 4

SEPTEMBER

大會堂

展覽廳 3B 及 3C

名貴珠寶首飾

翡翠廊

展覽廳1大堂

君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

香港館

國際珠寶首飾

展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

展覽廳 3F 及 3G

大堂中樓 2

香港館

香港藝粹館

展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

展覽廳 1D 及 1E

古董及古典首飾

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 會議廳

港灣道入口

博覽道入口

13 - 17 September 2016 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Packaging, Tools & Equipment Silver Jewellery

Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery, Finished Jewellery & Jewellery Accessories

Hall 5D

Hall 5E

15 - 19 September 2016

Bridal Jewellery Pavilion Hall 3E Concourse

Silver Jewellery

Fine Design Pavilion Grand Hall

Asian Fine Jewellery

Halls 5B & 5C

Hong Convention &ArenaExhibition Centre SilverKong Jewellery Designer International Premier Pavilion Hong Kong Pavilion International Fine Jewellery Fine Finished Jewellery Fine Jewellery Halls 5F & 5G

Mezzanine 4

Halls 3B & 3C

Mezzanine 2

adeite Gallery

Hong Kong Pavilion

Chancellor Room & Mezzanine 4

Halls 3C, 3D & 3E

Hall 1 Concourse

Halls 3F & 3G

Antique & Vintage Jewellery

Hong Kong Premier Pavilion Halls 1D & 1E

Halls 1A, 1B & 1C

Expo Drive Entrance

純銀首飾

Convention Hall

Harbour Road Entrance

珍珠首飾、純銀首飾、製成首飾及珠寶配件

展覽廳 5D

展覽廳 5E

婚嫁首飾

展覽廳 3E 大堂

UBM Asia Ltd 純銀首飾

亞洲珠寶首飾

展覽廳 5B及5C

珠寶精品館 大會堂

展覽廳 5F 及 5G

Tel :(852) 2585 6179 香港館 / 2516 1677 Fax :(852) 3749 7319 名貴珠寶首飾 香港藝粹館 Email :香港館 salesjgf-hk@ubm.com 純銀首飾 國際藝粹館

展覽廳 3B 及 3C

大堂中樓 4

設計師創意廊

君爵廳及大堂中樓 4

國際珠寶首飾

展覽廳 3C, 3D 及 3E

展覽廳 3F 及 3G

大堂中樓 2

翡翠廊

展覽廳1大堂

展覽廳 1A, 1B 及 1C

博覽道入口

古董及古典首飾

展覽廳 1D 及 1E

會議廳

港灣道入口

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EUROPA STAR HBM

VAN CLEEF, POETRY OF TIME The legendary business of Van Cleef & Arpels was established in Paris in 1898, following the marriage of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels. The couple, along with Estelle’s brother Charles Arpels, opened their first boutique in 1906, soon after joined by Julien Arpels. After more than 100 years, Van Cleef & Arpels are still renowned for their expertise in precious stones and have won particular acclaim for a groundbreaking gem-setting procedure known as the ‘serti invisible’ (invisible setting), whereby stones and gems are set in a side-by-side formation with no apparent metal or mounting visible from the front.Van Cleef & Arpels: The Poetry of Time explores the beautiful watches created by this luxurious jeweller. Combining the spirit of invention with the love of precious gems, Van Cleef & Arpels create watches with delicate and elegant lines, pushing imagination and ingenuity to the forefront, endowing their creations with the Haute Jewellery spirit. The company makes a point of reviving traditional skills and developing new techniques, such as three-dimensional enamel and mother-of-pearl marquetry.

• 216 pages | colour ill. | format: 29 x 30 cm | price: CHF 105 / € 95

JEWELS OF TIME, THE WORLD OF WOMEN’S WATCHES by Roberta Naas This book focuses on the most beautiful time-keeping machines made for woman and how the design has been inspired by art, architecture and fashion. Taken to extreme heights of technological advancement, bejewelled with rare and precious stones and crafted to perfection, the examples of haute horologerie presented in this book express an unparalleled strength in luxury and how women’s wristwatches symbolise power and progress by attesting to the exciting idea of female liberation. This beautifully photographed book focuses on the most beautiful time-keeping machines made for women and how their design has been inspired by art, architecture and fashion with complementary interviews between watchmakers and some of the most contemporary designers and trendsetters of today, showing us that telling time has truly changed for the better.

Europa Star HBM SA, Route des Acacias 25, CH-1227 Carouge/Geneva - Switzerland Tel +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, contact@europastar.com • www.europastar.com • www.CIJintl.com / www.europastarjewellery.com EDITORS EUROPA STAR WATCHES & JEWELS Co-Editor: Serge Maillard • smaillard@europastar.com Co-Editor: Jeta B • jetab@europastar.com EUROPA STAR WATCHES Editor-in-Chief: Pierre M. Maillard • pmaillard@europastar.com Managing Editor: Serge Maillard • smaillard@europastar.com EUROPA STAR PREMIÈRE Editor-in-Chief: Serge Maillard • smaillard@europastar.com SENIOR EDITORS Senior Editor: D. Malcolm Lakin • mlakin@europastar.com Editors China: Jean-Luc Adam, Woody Hu • watches-for-china@europastar.com Editor Spain: Carles Sapena • csapena@europastar.es ART Alexis Sgouridis • asgouridis@europastar.com PUBLISHING / MARKETING / SALES Nathalie Glattfelder • Tel: +41 22 307 78 37 • nglattfelder@europastar.com Marianne Bechtel Croze • Tel: +41 79 379 82 71 • mac@bab-consulting.com Maggie Tong • Tel: +852 2527 5189 • maggietong@europastar.com Jocelyne Bailly • Tel: +41 22 307 78 37 • jbailly@europastar.com PUBLISHER - CEO: Serge Maillard CHAIRMAN: Philippe Maillard MANAGEMENT / ACCOUNTING Business Manager: Catherine Giloux. Tel: +41 22 307 78 48 • cgiloux@europastar.com MAGAZINES Europa Star - Europe - International - USA - China - Latin America / Spain Europa Star Jewels - Europa Star Première - Bulletin d’informations - Eurotec WEBSITES www.worldwatchweb.com, www.europastar.com, www.watch-aficionado.com, www.watches-for-china.com, www.watches-for-china.cn, www.horalatina.com, www.europastarwatch.ru, www.europastar.com/premiere, www.europastarjewellery.com, www.CIJintl.com, www.eurotec-online.com

• 304 pages | colour ill. | format: 25.4 x 28 cm | price: CHF 53 / € 44

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PIAGET: WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELLERS SINCE 1874 by Philippe Garcia, Steve Hiett, Florence Müller

MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION: WATCHES 6 issues: CHF 100 Europe, CHF 140 International WATCHES & JEWELS 2 issues: CHF 50 International

From Paris to New York to Hollywood, from Geneva to Beijing, Piaget represents stylish elegance and technical prowess. This beautiful book traces the history of Piaget since its founding in 1874 to the present. Piaget’s sophisticated creations have been worn by artists such as Dalì and Warhol and some of the chicest women in the world, from Elizabeth Taylor to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis to Marisa Berenson. This spectacular book, filled with stunning new photography, offers a behind-thescenes look into a world of unparalleled craftsmanship, sophistication, and beauty.

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• 344 pages | colour ill. | format: 25 x 31 cm | price: CHF 98 / € 98

Europa Star Europe & International Audited REMP/FRP 2015-2016 Copyright 2016 EUROPA STAR All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of Europa Star HBM SA.


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Crown Royal headgear or watch winder? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Crown | The winding crown is a knurled or fluted button of various shapes, held between the thumb and forefinger and used to wind the watch. Some crowns incorporate a mobile pushbutton for operating a chronograph mechanism or to release the cover of a hunter case.

THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET 1822 | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRISTOPHE CLARET DE BETHUNE | GIRARD-PERREGAUX | GREUBEL FORSEY | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS VUITTON | MB&F | MONTBLANC | OFFICINE PANERAI PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PIAGET | RALPH LAUREN | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | TAG HEUER | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS


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Europa Star Jewels – Spring issue 2016