DESIGNING THE TRENDS 2008-2009
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Global business, local success The approach of a new year signals more than just a change of calendars — it’s when we take stock of where we’ve been, consider where we’re headed, and predict which of the trends we’ve encountered along the way will continue with us, bubbling like champagne from one year to the next. Regarding the first point, how’s this for an inventory of places we’ve been since last January? Macau, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Iceland, Tucson, Vicenza, Milan, Israel, Basel, Las Vegas, Mumbai, Delhi, Bangkok, London, and, of course, New York (our editorial home base). What that eclectic list is meant to demonstrate is that COUTURE International Jeweler has a uniquely global perspective on the shifting currents of the jewelry business. Our mission is to be a resource for people seeking cutting-edge design and trend information from all four corners of the earth. This not only distinguishes us from other trade journals but sets us apart in the wider world of magazines, too. Every quarter, we mail 10,000 copies of the latest issue to the finest jewelry retail and distribution operations located in more than 100 countries on six of the seven continents (if Antarctica had a couture jewelry outpost, we’d get there, too). We consider CIJ an important bridge between buyers and sellers at the upper echelons of this far-flung, fragmented trade. All this is by way of addressing our second point, the one that clarifies where we’re headed. While 2009 may indeed be a difficult year for the luxury business, we’re committed to delivering well-edited, on-the-ground information to our readers, and, hopefully, serving as a critical factor in their ongoing success. We’re convinced that the global business opportunities outlined on our pages will play a key role in those efforts. Speaking of timely information, that brings us to the final point of our year-end inventory, in which we scrutinize the trends that have emerged over the past year and forecast which ones will demand your attention in the months ahead. More than an exercise in fashionable frivolity, our annual Designing the Trends issue is a snapshot of the collective mood of couture jewelers worldwide. What looks will be front and center in the new year? Where are the best sourcing opportunities? What issues and ideas are shaping the business and how do they correspond to the wider world? A magazine that answers these questions and more will be an indispensable tool in the greater campaign to help your businesses thrive, even, or perhaps especially, in a challenging environment. We believe COUTURE International Jeweler fits the bill, and we sincerely hope you agree. Happy new year — and best wishes for a successful season. We look forward to serving you during what is sure to be a remarkable year.
Victoria Gomelsky Editor vgomelsky@couturejeweler.com
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On the cover Carrera y Carrera Shangai Necklace Yellow Gold & White, Brilliants, Yellow Gold Chain.
www.carreraycarrera.com no 285 - 4/2008
Design 46 Designer Profile
08 Trends & Colors Spotlight
52 Tastemakers An influential color
Every December, we stake our claims on the trends and colors we think will have staying power in the new year. For 2009, we’ll venture a bold prediction: In spite (or because) of the darkening economy, you can count on a vivid year.
Irish-born Clodagh is a one-named decorating wonder. From her New York base, she runs a thriving interior design business founded upon eco-conscious values.
forecaster, a fashion maven and a blogger with big ideas offer us a peak into their crystal balls.
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Leslie Harrington 52 Mary Gehlhar 54 Piers Fawkes 56
70 Influences From Russia come a cohort of talented jewelers with designs on the Faberge legacy. At the other end of the spectrum lie the faux jewels that ruled the spring ’09 runways. Meanwhile, Bangkok’s Lotus Arts de Vivre spreads its home decor wings.
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Blackberry Collection LA QUINTA STAGIONE S.P.A. - TEL. +39 0444 515720 - WWW.THEFIFTHSEASON.IT
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28 SPECIAL REPORT: Fashion and Fine Jewelry
Editor’s Letter 01 Marketplace: London 64
On the brink of what promises to be a rather complicated year, we look at the fine jewelry industry’s answer to “recession style.”
Fine art meets furniture at DesignArt London, the premier fair for discerning collectors of design.
Spring 2009 Fashion Preview 42
76 Couture Practices In traditionbound Delhi, Hazoorilal embraces modernity without sacrificing its old-school Indian values.
Marketplace: Mumbai 62
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The IIJS show promotes made-in-India jewels to a growing crowd of foreigners.
78 Couture Practices Kwiat, the
Advertiser/ Editorial Index 77
100-year-old diamond jeweler, opens a New York flagship that aims to showcase its elegant baubles in the right light.
Freely Speaking 80 Dr. G. Clotaire Rapaille is convinced that city-states such as Dubai hold the secret to success.
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80 The Official Jewelry Magazine of Couture 2009 COUTURE International Jeweler, 25 route des Acacias, CH - 1227 Genève, Switzerland Tel. +41 22 307 78 37, Fax +41 22 300 37 48, Help desk: jricher@europastar.com
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Crafted in Italy
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For more information please call 1-877-996-6789
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Basel: March 26-April 2 BaselWorld at the Basel Convention Center: The superlative event of the global luxury business, not to be missed www.baselworld.com
New York: January 18-20 and July 26-29 JA New York Winter and Summer Shows at Javits Convention Center: Timely fairs with a broad selection, from mass to class www.ja-newyork.com
Las Vegas: May 28-June 2 Couture show at the Wynn Las Vegas: A meeting place for the cream of the jewelry crop www.couturejeweler.com JCK Las Vegas at the Sands Expo & Convention Center: Welcome to the jewelry trade’s grand bazaar www.jcklasvegasshow.com
Tucson: February 4-9 AGTA GemFair at Tucson Convention Center: The greatest gem show on earth www.agta.org
Geneva: January 19-23 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) at Geneva Palexpo: An invitationonly salon, home to a coterie of elite watch brands www.sihh.ch Madrid: January 14-18 Iberjoya at Feria de Madrid: Spain’s most progressive jewelry showcase, for both Spanish and foreign jewelers www.iberjoya.ifema.es
Milan: February 22-25 About J at Superstudio+ in Zona Tortona: Italy’s answer to the Couture event in Las Vegas www.aboutjevent.com
Where in the world will you be in 2009? Plan your travels using our handy map showing the year’s most important jewelry fairs, conferences and events. See you there!
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London: September 6-9 International Jewellery London at Earl’s Court Exhibition Centre: Britain’s best talent under one roof www.jewellerylondon.com
St. Petersburg: February 4-8 Junwex at the Lenexpo Fairgrounds in Gavan: Russian retailers get their jewelry fix at this up-and-coming event www.restec.ru/exhibitions/featured/junwex
Moscow: May 25-June 1 The Moscow World Fine Art Fair at the Manege, Red Square: Oligarchs do their shopping at this glitzy event www.moscow-faf.com
Vicenza: January 11-18, May 16-20 and September 12-16 First, Charm and Choice at the Vicenza fairgrounds: A jewelry trifecta in Arezzo: the heart of Italy’s March 21-24 gold region www.vicenzaoro.org OroArezzo at the Arezzo Trade Meeting Centre: Jewelers from all across Italy have been flocking to this event since 1980 www. oroarezzo.it
Dubai: February 17-18 World Pearl Forum at the Atlantis Hotel, Palm Jumeirah: A meeting of minds in the pearl industry www.dpe.ae Mumbai: August 6-10 IIJS Show at the NSE Complex (Bombay Exhibition Centre) in Goregaon: Where Indian buyers and sellers intersect www.iijs.org
Macau: January 8-11 Macau Jewellery & Watch Fair at The Cotai Strip Convention and Exhibition Center at The Venetian® Macao: Business meets pleasure in Asia’s hottest gambling destination exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions
September 21-27 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Watch Fair at AsiaWorld-Expo and Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre: Asia’s most astute buyers wouldn’t miss this classy gathering exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions
Goa: February 20-23 IIJS Signature at the Kala Academy in Panaji: The showcase for India’s best and brightest www.iijs-signature.org Bahrain: November 17-21 Jewellery Arabia at Bahrain International Exhibition Centre: A Mecca for Middle Eastern buyers www.aeminfo.com.bh/ ja2007
Hong Kong: March 4-8 Hong Kong International Jewellery Show at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre: Pearls, watches, gems and jewelry—this well-organized show has them all www.hktdc.com/hkjewelleryshow
Bangkok: February 25-March 1 and September 15-19 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair at the Impact Exhibition & Convention Center: Sourcing in the world’s prime gem and jewelry locale—it doesn’t get any easier than this www.bangkokgemsfair.com
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Blue Horizons In shades of cobalt, azure or indigo, perennially popular blue is sure to give any look a lift
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1. Josephine turquoise alligator clutch by Jada Loveless 2. Model with earrings by Amali and swimsuit by Gottex; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 3. LaisteMoon’s Daughter one-of-a-kind ring in 18-karat white gold with 9.74-carat tanzanite and two large diamonds by Ana de Costa at Kabiri 4. Mikado Flamenco necklace with three shades of natural Persian turquoise in 18-karat white gold by Tamara Comolli 5. African Paraiba tourmaline of 25.65 carats in platinum ring by Atelier Munsteiner 6. Mimosa earrings in white gold with diamonds and sapphires by Damiani 7. Armchair by Adrenalina 8. Pendant in 18-karat white gold with diamonds and a 17-carat pear-shaped blue topaz by Bapalal Keshavlal 9. Subterranean Turquoise earrings with diamonds in 22-karat granulated gold by Zeira 10. Blossom ring with 12.75-carat tanzanite and diamonds in 18-karat gold by Erica Courtney. 11. Opal bracelet in platinum with emerald beads and diamonds by Cartier 12. Rock Collection Circle C hammered aquamarine necklace in 18-karat gold by Yael Sonia 13. Rings in platinum with vivid blue sapphires and diamonds by Picchiotti 14. Opal bag by Shana London 15. Ring with black gold, beryls, sapphires, diamonds and Australian black opal by Lydia Courteille 16. Starfish bracelet with blue sapphires and white diamonds by de Grisogono 17. Cushion cabochon Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline of 5.91 carats in handcrafted 18-karat yellow and white gold ring by Tamir. Fashion photo Š2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
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1. Pebble Pave necklace with moissanite stones in 18-karat white gold and solid pebbles featuring a black rhodium finish by Moissanite 2. Crazy ring in 14-karat white gold with 13.20 carats of black diamond beads by Catherine Angiel 3. Samarcanda necklace in white gold with diamonds and enamel by La Nouvelle Bague 4. Verde Key necklace in sterling silver with black diamonds by Rhonda Faber Green 5. Bracelet in gold with black and white diamonds by Davite & Delucchi 6. Parabol pendant in platinum on coil chain by Niessing 7. Arctic Night black and white diamond studs in 14-karat gold by Waldman Diamonds 8. Desire Love Elixir cup by Sieger by FÜRSTENBERG 9. Earrings in 18-karat gold with 19.28 carats of rough diamond slices and micro pavé borders by Nina Runsdorf 10. Glass vase by Giannini 11. Scarf by Gianna 12. L’infini pendant with black and white diamonds by Cartier 13. Black and white icy diamond ring in 18-karat gold by Hellmuth 14. Model in jewelry by Ippolita, dress by Ina Soltani and jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 15. Cluster earrings with 10.97 carats of black diamonds and freshwater pearls in 18-karat gold by Jeanne Johngren Design.
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Fashion photo ©2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
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Going Green It’s easy being green when the selection of jewels from which to choose is this haute
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1. Antea earrings in white gold with diamonds and quartz by Aprile 2. Model in jewelry by Chiampesan for Gold Expressions and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 3. M’ama non m’ama (“Love me, love me not”) ring in pink gold with amethyst, diamonds and tsavorite by Ninetto Terzano 4. Ring in 18-karat yellow and white gold with diamonds and oval-shaped emerald by Bapalal Keshavlal 5. Aqua jade and diamond ring by Bochic 6. Handcrafted 18-karat yellow gold pendant set with a pear-shaped 62.78-carat green beryl and 1 carat of diamonds by Tamir 7. Sofa by Futura 8. Model wearing spring 2009 dress by Ana Maria Macedo 9. Crystal Haze Helix Marquise ring with green agate and diamonds in 18-karat white gold by Stephen Webster 10. Handcrafted 18-karat white gold earrings set with oval-shaped 16.91-carat mint green tourmalines and 1.86 carats of diamonds by Tamir 11. Green Illusion long drop earrings in 18-karat gold with 42 carats of green onyx briolettes and diamonds by Lata K Designs 12. Quattro pendant with 3.19 carats of green tourmaline in 18-karat gold by Jeane Johngren Design 13. Snakes necklace with green tourmalines, diamonds and citrine madeira drop by Lena Sklyut Couture 14. Haute Couture peridot ring in 18-karat white gold with diamonds by Roberto Coin 15. Peridot knot necklace in 18-karat yellow gold by Kazanjian by Patrick M 16. Verdant Splendor ring in 18-karat yellow gold with 27.83 carats of tourmaline and 2.21 carats of tsavorite by Paula Crevoshay.
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1. Jaipur earrings in gold with gemstones by Marco Bicego 2. Fly By Night cocktail ring in white gold with amethyst and diamonds by Stephen Webster 3. Rock Collection Circle C necklaces with amethyst and rose quartz by Yael Sonia 4. Bowl in stainless steel by Alessi 5. Rose quartz perfume flask pendant by Cartier 6. Giselle bag in lilac by Helena de Natalio 7. On model, Rouge Amour necklace in platinum with 59 carats of rubellites and a 15-carat kunzite by Georg Spreng 8. Tie of 100 percent silk by Sieger 9. Ring in platinum and 18-karat pink gold with 12 mm conch pearl, 3.71 carats of white diamonds and 0.99 carats of pink diamonds by Mikimoto 10. Blueberry ring in sterling silver with amethyst by Kiara 11. Lilli rings in platinum with 4.21-carat amethyst and 3.38-carat morganite by Georg Spreng 12. Pendant in 18-karat yellow gold with 31.25-carat carved agate, moonstone, sapphire and diamonds by Paula Crevoshay 13. Purple enamel cross in 14-karat white gold with black diamonds by EV Jewelry Design 14. Spring Love ring in 18-karat yellow gold with pink quartz and South Sea pearls by Lena Sklyut 15. Necklace in 24-karat gold with rose-cut pink tourmalines by Gurhan 16. Ring in pink gold with diamonds by Zydo 17. Adam & Eve handbag in purple satin and gold by Shana London. 18. Dangle earrings in platinum with 11.51 carats of amethyst and diamonds by Gumuchian.
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Orange Crush From sunsets to spice, the many shades of orange make everything look nice 1. Earrings set with large oval rose-cut carnelian, small round rose-cut carnelian and 3 mm rose-cut diamonds with diamond pavĂŠ in 18-karat yellow gold by Irene Neuwirth 2. From Top Amber album published by International Amber Association, objet by Marcin Zaremski 3. Earrings in 20-karat pink gold with Imperial topaz, garnets, brown diamonds and naturalcolored peach pearls by Geoffrey Good 4. From Top Amber album published by International Amber Association, pendant by Manuel Vilhena 5. Dulce Combo mustard clutch by Helena de Natalio 6. La Preziose ring in yellow gold set with 13.34-carat spessartite garnet, 43 brown diamonds totaling 1.12 carats and 375 yellow intense diamonds totaling 7 carats by Suzanne Syz 7. Handcrafted platinum and 18-karat white gold earrings set with 10.38 carats of cushion-shaped mandarin garnets and diamonds by Tamir 8. Models in jewelry by Di Modolo and Mattioli and swimsuits by Sea Queen; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 9. Eiffel Tower ring in platinum with 6.25-carat cushion-shaped mandarin garnet and 1.33 carats of diamonds by Gumuchian.
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Golden Opportunity Prized throughout history for its symbolic and monetary value, gold will always be a timeless luxury
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1. Sacred Heart gold cuff in gold-plated metal by Perry Gargano 2. Diamond chandelier with more than 3,300 perfectly cut diamonds totaling more than 1,000 carats by Hearts On Fire 3. Leopard Signature ring in 18-karat gold by Daphna Simon 4. Maxi Ruedo ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Carrera y Carrera 5. Cassandra earrings in 18-karat gold with diamonds by Jeanne Johngren Design 6. Gripios Cross pendant in 22-karat gold with diamonds by EV Jewelry Design 7. Cleopatra necklace in 18-karat gold with diamonds by Martha O’Brien 8. Classic Granulation ring in 22-karat granulated gold by Zeira 9. Charisma in Gold necklace in 18-karat rose gold with almost 400 brilliant-cut diamonds by Herbstrith 10. Sip of Gold cup embellished with platinum, a diamond-patterned relief and 24-karat gold rim by Sieger 11. Autoral ring in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds by Carla Amorim 12. Revolution earrings in 14- or 18-karat gold by J.R. de Bellard Fine Jewelry 13. Model in earrings by Amali and swimsuit by Sea Queen; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 14. Stardust necklace in yellow gold with diamonds by Staurino Fratelli 15. Grace Petite clutch in saffron alligator with vermeil clasp encrusted with faceted smoky quartz and cabochon citrine by Jada Loveless 16. Pepita necklace in yellow gold with white and brown enamel by Fifth Season 17. Chippendale console by Arti & Mestieri. Fashion photo Š2008 Visko Hatfield, courtesy of World Gold Council and Style LA
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The Silver Standard The vogue for this lustrous white metal has little to do with price and everything to do with style
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1. Om Garden ring in silver with pink sapphire pavÊ by Sonja Picard 2. Earrings in sterling silver with 18-karat gold and diamonds by Slane & Slane 3. Superstud stacked bangles in sterling silver by Stephen Webster 4. Maria Antonietta glass plate by Ego vetri delle venezie 5. Pic Fleurs vase designed by Richard Hutton and silver plate by Christofle 6. Verde Flower earrings in sterling silver with 22-karat yellow gold accents by Rhonda Faber Green 7. Boheme bracelet in silver with quartz by Calgaro 8. Croco d’Argent evening bag in sterling silver by Christofle 9. Sable bangles in silver with 24-karat gold dots by Gurhan.
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Blumer GmbH Manufacturer of fine jewellery LuisenstraĂ&#x;e 60 75172 Pforzheim Germany Tel.: +49(0)7231-13 83- 0 Fax: +49(0)7231-13 83-290 E-Mail: info @ blumer.de Internet: www.blumer.de
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Natural Selection Jewels immortalizing the earth’s flora and fauna honor the ethos that green is good
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1. Dragonfly cuff bracelet in 18-karat white gold with 11 carats of diamonds by Supreme Jewelry 2. Fairy Tale Lion brooch in gold with enamel, diamonds, amber, rubies and silver by Lobortas & Karpova 3. Brooches in gold with diamonds and emeralds by Andreoli 4. Bug Me ring in white gold with chrysocolla, white diamonds, black sapphires and onyx by Stephen Webster 5. Bag by Braccialini 6. Spirit Animals grasshopper pendants in carved jet and elk antler with 18-karat gold legs, lace agate eyes and diamonds by Katey Brunini Jewels 7. Phoenix bangle in white gold with diamonds in featherlike settings and drop shapes by Boodles 8. Dragonfly pendant in 18-karat gold with demantoid garnet, chrome diopside, rainbow hematite and pearl by Paula Crevoshay 9. Pendant-brooch with 63.16 carats of yellow tourmaline, freshwater stick pearls, 5.40 carats of canary diamonds and 30.26 carats of cognac diamonds by Adria de Haume 10. Diamond spider pendant in 14-karat white gold on 18-karat white gold chain with 26 carats of white beaded sapphires by Catherine Angiel 11. Peacock feather earrings in oxidized silver and 18-karat gold with rose-cut diamonds and ruby eyes by Lotus Arts de Vivre 12. Ava necklace in 18-karat white gold and rose-cut diamonds by Carrera y Carrera 13. Callas brooch in gold with Tahitian cultured pearl, orange and cognac sapphires and diamonds by Schoeffel 14. Fly By Night Batmoth ring in white gold with diamonds by Stephen Webster 15. Butterfly earrings in 18-karat white and black gold with 6.27 carats of diamonds and 5.62 carats of brown diamonds by Gioielleria Nardi 16. Butterfly ring in 18-karat gold with chocolate diamonds by Elyssa Bass Designs 17. Model in earrings by Uzca Jewels and swimsuit by Gottex; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 18. Flower ring in 18-karat gold with 11.46 carats of rose-cut rough diamonds and rose-cut diamonds by Nina Runsdorf.
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For Goodness’ Snake Seductive as sin, these sinuous jewels celebrate the hypnotic allure of the snake
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1. Model with jewelry by Gold Expressions and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 2. Brooch in platinum with opal, emerald, emerald eyes and diamonds by Cartier 3. Guardian of the Myth ring with 7.62-carat rough diamond, 15 carats of rough, white and fancy colored diamonds in white gold by De Beers 4. Couture Stiletto in snake skin, silk and leather hand embroidered with Tahitian and freshwater pearls by Schoeffel with Unrath & Strano 5. Spirit Animals spider web domed ring in 18-karat yellow gold with carved elk antler snake and diamonds by K. Brunini Jewels 6. Envelope clutch in multicolor snake print with removable wristlet strap by Helena de Natalio 7. Signature belt buckle in sterling silver, 18-karat gold, green tourmalines and diamonds by Lena Sklyut Couture 8. Snakes bracelet with camel leather and double snake shaped buckle handcrafted and engraved in sterling silver by Manuel Bozzi 9. Bracelet in blackened silver with diamonds by Kathy Rose 10. Serpentine earrings in sterling silver with spessartite, rose-cut diamonds, rubies and 18-karat gold by Lotus Arts de Vivre. 6
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Rainbow Coalition If these rich color combinations say anything, it’s that beauty lies in the blend 1. Telaio choker with 54.74 carats of pear-shaped fancy colored sapphires, 2.40 carats of diamonds and rock crystal in white gold by Fabio Salini 2. Meteorite earrings in 18-karat white gold with cognac diamonds by Roberto Coin 3. Model in bracelet by Orlando Orlandini and dress by Ina Soltani; jewelry styling by Shaye Strager at the Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show 4. Luminous multicolored sapphire bracelet in 22-karat granulated gold with diamonds by Zeira 5. Berry Drop necklace with amethyst, multi-color tourmalines and whiskey quartz by Lisa Cotten 6. Clash bracelet in 18-karat white gold with white diamonds, amethyst and other semiprecious gems by Valente Milano 7. Museum Collection cuff with silver Tahitian pearls and 54.25 carats of multicolor sapphires by Tara & Sons 8. Tortoise ring in yellow gold with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, onyx and Australian black opal by Lydia Courteille 9. Button clutch by Hubris & Homefries.
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SPECIAL REPORT FASHION AND FINE JEWELRY
Recessi When the economy behaves as tempestuously as it has >> Victoria Gomelsky
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id you notice the return this past summer of the floor-sweeping maxi dress and the omnipresent pitter-patter of all those pancake flats? Whatever you may think of “the hemline effect” or its modern corollary, “the heel hypothesis” — the notion that as the economy declines, hemlines get longer and shoes get shorter, and vice versa — there’s no arguing that fashion and the financial system are inextricably, if inexplicably, linked. In retrospect, some might see the combination of lengthy frocks and sensible shoes as sartorial harbingers of fiscal crises to come (cue the Lehman Brothers collapse and subsequent meltdown); others as the accidental convergence of two cyclical markets. But regardless of your leaning, try for a moment to indulge the former point of view, the one that draws a straight line between stock shares and silhouettes. Then answer this question: What are we to make of the bold, avant-garde heels clomping down streets this past fall? Like postcards from outer space, the freakish, embellished shoes of the moment allude to something unprecedented. It’s a fitting metaphor for the global marketplace. Not even during the Great Depression did we see a financial crisis of such scale, owing largely to the fact that mortgages, credit cards and interconnected, indeed, interdependent, markets weren’t around 70 years ago to wreak havoc like they are — and do — today. The upshot is obvious: Most consumers don’t have the financial wherewithal to fully indulge their collective penchant for fresh fashion. The good news? They continue to sate their desire with accessories, which are key to capturing the season’s quintessential look. “Notice how outlandish the shoes are,” says Jason Campbell, editor in chief of the JC Report, a biweekly e-newsletter of fashion’s comings and goings. “You can have the same jacket and throw on an unbelievable scarf or pair of shoes and make it stand out. They’re the focal point of the look, which is detracting attention from last season’s dress.” Call it recession style or depression fashion. When you can’t splurge on the whole outfit, you treat yourself in less expensive yet equally dramatic ways. In the run-up to 2009, for example, that means jaunty
High drama, low budget This page: Costume jewelry, like this bold geometric necklace from Lanvin’s fall 2008 runway show, has earned high marks this season because it can afford to go big. In the fine jewelry sphere, some designers, like Rhonda Faber Green, are opting for sterling silver. Her diamond-accented Verde bangles start at $580 retail. Opposite page: Miu Miu’s space-age heels seem to subvert the “heel hypothesis” of the economy. Other budget-conscious designers have chosen palladium, as in this Barry Kronen pendant. Jessica Simpson wearing coral and onyx earrings by Bochic.
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on style this year, the fashion market is sure to feel the pinch
scarves, chunky and colorful platforms and, last but not least, statement jewelry, “the more outré, the more alchemical and interesting,” Campbell says, “the better.”
Costume party Given the soaring costs of precious metals and stones, however, style comes at a hefty price. That explains why costume, or fashion, jewelry is playing a more significant role now than during any season in recent memory. It’s a straightforward equation: Take X number of ounces of gold and multiply them by the current gold price (as of early November, down to $725 per ounce, but still quite volatile). The costly result makes clear that in order to support all those trendy layered chains, draped like armor in homage to Run DMC, Mr. T and other icons of ’80s ghetto style, only faux will do. The most successful of these costume efforts are “strange and odd-looking, but they tell a very compelling story,” Campbell says, citing Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz and Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiere for their “really brilliant and really odd” creations. For fall ’08, Ghesquiere opted for “a sinewy blend of faux stones, strass and pearls that have a vintage appeal,” according to the blog The Luxe Chronicles, adding that “the delicateness of the pieces was an unexpected but appealing complement to the austerity of [his] fashions.” Elbaz, lauded for engineering a costume jewelry comeback on par with the resplendent designs of Chanel and Dior circa 1950, went in a different direction. By layering his models with bold, geometric necklaces big enough to look like breastplates for the high priests of fashion, Elbaz’s ’80s fixation came through loud and clear. No era has a greater resonance for him, as evidenced by his prodigious use of grosgrain ribbons and tapes of fabric, adding “a sense of geometry without screaming 1980s architecture,” wrote Suzy Menkes, fashion columnist for the International Herald Tribune.
1980s nostalgia The Lanvin designer isn’t alone in his passion for jewelry harking back to a decade that has spawned more than its fair share of nostalgia. The twosome behind New York’s Bylu (pronounced “Blue”), Ken Leung and Dana Chin, spent their summer decorating handcuff-style bangles, twofinger rings and multiple-chain necklaces with vivid splashes of cold enamel in order to create their 145.60 (onefortyfivesixty) collection of brass jewelry. Inspired “by the raw expression of the hip hop and graffiti movements
COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 29
SPECIAL REPORT FASHION AND FINE JEWELRY
taking place in NYC during the ’80s,” the collection’s name is a clever reference to the section of the New York State penal code that makes the act of “graffiti” a Class A misdemeanor. Having already launched two fine jewelry collections, Bylu, Leung says, was ready to “expand and diversify.” “Our core philosophy is about making more confident and bold jewelry,” he says. “With precious metals, it’s just not possible to do that, so we started playing around with brass.” To Leung and Chin’s surprise, the pieces have struck a chord with fine jewelry buyers. At the recent D&A show, a boutique fashion event held at the Chelsea Art Museum, Bylu made inroads with a store in upstate New York that carries an upscale mix of fine jewelers, from Anthony Nak to Cathy Waterman. “145.60 offers another price point, an impulse purchase,” Leung says.
Arm candy Bylu’s collection has something else to recommend it: It’s stacked with bangles and cuff bracelets, the styles most in vogue thanks to the way they lend themselves to being piled on and mixed together in a spirited blend of materials, not the least of which is sterling silver in a trendy blackened finish, the fashionista’s fallback to 18-karat gold. “The person who wants to buy and wear five to 10 bangles doesn’t want to go crazy,” says Los Angeles-based Rhonda Faber Green, whose two-year-old “Verde” collection of engraved, finely detailed sterling silver bangles is designed for women who like the look of excess yet shun the corresponding price tag. To wit: A 5-millimeter sterling silver fleur de lis bangle from the Verde collection retails for $690, while the corresponding bangle in 22-karat gold sells for nearly five times that amount: $3,150. “Some retailers buy both the silver and gold and have them all in one case,” says Green, whose competition in the
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high-end silver category includes designers as diverse as Stephen Webster, Gurhan and Emily Armenta. “Some buy just the sterling silver, and some buy just the gold. But a few who said they would never want the sterling silver are now really excited about it.”
Metal mania It’s not rocket science. The metals market has seen its most active year since the investment bubble of the early 1980s — so active, in fact, that graphs of gold and platinum prices in 2008 look like the heart rate monitor of a very unstable patient. Platinum, for one, surpassed the $2,000 mark in February before scaling down, up and back down again. As of early November, it rested uneasily around $820, a mere trifle more than gold, which is, in and of itself, a bizarre scenario. With currency markets behaving just as erratically, the jewelry industry has shown a newfound zeal for alternative metals. One apparent beneficiary is palladium, a member of the platinum group now being touted as “the metal for the 21st century” because of its white cast, rarity and relatively inexpensive price: Since the beginning of the year, palladium has dropped dramatically to around $200 per ounce. Another new entrant to the metals market is Karat Platinum in New York, which has pioneered an innovative “14-karat platinum” alloy that combines a 41.5 percent cobalt-copper blend with 58.5 percent platinum. “It’s got a wonderful color, a luxury feel, strength and durability, and it’s hitting a price point directly between 14-karat gold and platinum 950,” said Michael Ottaway, director of merchandising (before, that is, metal prices went haywire). Although the company’s hopes are pinned on the bridal market, its range includes a wide selection of fashion jewelry, The price is right Bangles from Bylu’s 145.60 collection of brass jewelry have struck a chord with fine jewelry buyers, in part because of their low price. Karat Platinum’s vintage-style diamond drop earrings and diamond and blue sapphire bangle bracelet are made from a unique “14-karat platinum” alloy.
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including tennis bracelets, chandelier earrings and bangle bracelets, some studded with gemstones. Karat Platinum’s top selling item on Amazon, however, “is a plain, plain, plain, 2-millimeter wide, never-take-it-off hoop earring for $139 retail,” Ottoway says.
The luxe factor But if it’s true that one segment of the jewelry market is keen to try affordable, everyday platinum, up until this fall it was equally true that another segment of buyers, the ultraluxury set didn’t care one iota about affordability, for these are billionaires who may have lost some money in the credit crunch but probably not enough to make a dent. Indeed, luxury consumers spent most of the year helping the surprisingly resilient high-end market to defy all expectations. They wielded their considerable purchasing power at the auction houses, where colored diamonds, large colorless rocks and signed contemporary jewels fetched record-breaking prices. “Today, $100,000 per carat for a 10carat diamond is normal,” said Rahul Kadakia, senior vice president of Christie’s Americas, at a September conference. “What changed the market? Forbes estimated more than 1,000 billionaires for the first time. Their money has spread across the world. The dollar was down, and large rocks had great sparkle for investors worrying about inflation.” For a while, it seemed that one of the only markets to transcend the economic crisis was India’s, and though the truth of that assessment remains to be seen, it helps explain why jewelry evoking its exotic heritage is gaining acceptance around the world. Not since Cartier and other European luxury houses made a name for themselves crafting extraordinary parures for the maharajahs during the 1920s and ’30s has über-expensive, Indian-inspired jewelry been so
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popular. For decades, the look was simply too ethnic to play on the postwar, postindustrial, postmodern fashion stage. Suddenly, inspired by India’s star turn on the global scene, jewelry connoisseurs are again citing the country’s 5,000year-old design heritage, newly co-opted by a rising cohort of luxury jewelers besotted with traditional Indian craftsmanship and locally sourced precious stones. Chief among them are Mumbai’s Viren Bhagat, Jaipur’s Gem Palace and two Hollywood red-carpet favorites, Amrapali and Bochic.
Investor confidence Looking ahead to 2009, there’s no denying that the economic outlook is fraught with uncertainty, with forecasters such as Gerald Celente, founder of the Trends Research Institute, warning of an impending “economic 9/11” (he describes the sub-prime mortgage problem as merely a “crack at the bottom of the foundation”). But the idea that jewelry is a sound purchase continues to build. “The whole market has declined sharply overall, but jewelry is holding on better than others because it really does have intrinsic value,” says Pam Danziger, founder of Unity Marketing, a boutique market research firm based in Stevens, Pa. “Jewelry is perceived as a better place to indulge your money than handbags or clothing.” Plenty of retailers can testify to that phenomenon. Paul Schneider, co-owner of Twist, a Portland, Ore., jewelry boutique known as a bellwether for trends, says that after more than 20 years in the fine jewelry business, he and his wife/business partner had their best Christmas last year, just as the recession began to build, and that his high-end business continues to boom, with customers embracing 22-karat gold, rose-cut diamonds, organic shapes and anything that boasts a green or eco-sustainable tie-in. “You’ve got to be cautious about panicking about the economy,” Schneider says. “We’ve developed a quality core customer base and a great position in the marketplace, and we don’t want to abandon that. Our wealthiest customers are buying the highest-end pieces, and they still need us. It would be a shame if we weren’t ready for them. Let’s not let our fears dictate what we buy and what our customers want.” ■ Hurray for Bollywood Kate Beckinsale at the 15th Annual Women of Hollywood event wears yellow rose-cut diamond earrings by Amrapali, an Indian brand favored by celebrities, who have taken a shine to ornate yellow gold bangles and chandelier earrings.
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2009
is the year to celebrate the art of the jewel. Individual and intensely personal, the jewel is now regarded and appreciated as a true work of art. Emotion underlines all Gem Visions directions for 2009 showing fine jewellery as the embodiment of feelings, passion, love, loyalty, celebration and self-expression. In the new mood of emotional luxury, every jewel has a soul. Gem Visions research has identified four main trends for 2009, encompassing the most significant design directions influencing and shaping the fine jewellery world.
TOUS
TTF Studio Roberto Coin
THE SOUL: a PROGRESSIVE, CONTEMPORARY and ORGANIC JEWEL The sensual minimalist mood continues to evolve as the organic influence takes a more scientific approach, shaped by a fascination with bio-technologies as well as by a move towards a more radical modernism. Lightness and transparency is key, along with a relaxed sensuality, and a renewed focus on the inner life of gems, the natural imperfections and inclusions that give each gem its own unique personality.
THE SOUL an ACTIVE and SPECTRAL JEWEL This theme reinforces the strong architectural element in design, drawing inspiration, graphic and luminous, from our contemporary urban environment. The complex neo-constructivist theme is based on the principle and effects of light diffraction, giving us an explosion of prismatic light, line and colour, radiant and dynamic, relating to fashion’s feeling for energetic, multi-coloured graphic prints.
Roberto Marroni
Wang Qian & Zhang Shaoifei
THE SOUL a NEO-NATURAL and POWERFUL JEWEL HyperNature is directly inspired by the profound universal preoccupation with the natural world and the survival of the planet. This is reminiscent of Art Nouveau at the turn of the 20th century, as it communicated a new, world-weary, poetic view of nature, inspired at the time by Japanese art. It is pro-active and powerful, sculptural and stylised, and will generate a quest for new iconic products as modern messengers of this tribute to nature.
Autore Tiret NY
Farah Khan
Daniel Swarovski
Gordon C. & Company
THE SOUL a SENSUAL, ULTRA-PERSONAL JEWEL This theme reflects the growing need for escapism and fantasy, for retrenching into our own private worlds. It is intensely personal, rich in cultural heritage, and layered with traditions, references and fragments of the past. Fusing fabric and gems, this takes vintage in a subtle new direction, heading towards mystical enchantment, with a strong thread of romance, providing a change of pace from the rising impact of new technology. These jewels tell a story, sometimes dark and demonic, underlined with deep meaning and imbued with age-old magic and spirituality.
ME
precious
Carrera y Carrera
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Eight easy pieces Presenting our cheat sheet for spring’s must-have fashion trends
Sheer genius
Slouchy trousers
Slightly provocative but mostly just teasing, designers used transparent fabrics again and again on the runway. Sheer panels were often placed in just the right places — beware of wardrobe malfunctions. Forget tight silhouettes, this look is all about easy, relaxed elegance.
Finally, a way to escape the figure-hugging skinny jean. Wide-leg pants of all shapes and sizes have made their comeback. Some styles evoked a 1970s sophistication, while others went to the Middle East for inspiration as harem pants stole the show. Droopy drawers never looked so chic.
Vera Wang
BCBG Max Azria
Size matters
In the boudoir
Instead of talking about what jewels will go with this season’s trends, jewels are this season’s trend. Oversized statement pieces were everywhere, and more jewelers are creating special collections at the behest of fashion designers. Necklaces will be the must-have accessory, the bigger the better.
Ultra-feminine and glamorous, this look is far more silk robe than sexy lingerie. Rich silks and lace lined the runways as models channeled their softer sides, and even dresses took on a slouchy, dressing gownstyle vibe.
Derek Lam
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Marc Jacobs
All photos provided by WireImage. Photographers, from left to right: Thomas Concordia, Randy Brooke, JP Yim, Randy Brooke
>> Randi Molofsky
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actually be in the best interests of the end consumer. Rather than featuring outlandish costumes, most collections will easily translate to real life, making spring’s hottest looks easy to shop.
Modern ruffles
Fleshed out
Forget Little House on the Prairie, these ruffles are organic in shape and current in style. Instead of accents on the edges of skirts and shirts, these three-dimensional pieces of fabric are part of the garments, seeming to sprout from the clothes in artistic configurations.
While bright pops of color will always be on tap for springtime, many collections were strangely devoid of a candy-colored palette. Instead, models wore fleshtoned ensembles, often from head to toe. Luckily, this leaves plenty of room for bold jewels to pop on a muted background.
Narciso Rodriguez
Calvin Klein
Tie me up, Tie me down
LWD (Little White Dress)
Designers were determined to keep their models on lockdown by any means necessary. Strips of fabric were pulled tight around dresses and blouses, making bondage a consistent theme for spring ’09. Not for the conservative, this look screams sexy and sophisticated.
After this season, the little black dress will be all but forgotten. Designers ditched the dark side for clean, contemporary shifts and sheaths in bright white, reminding us that this noncolor isn’t just for summer.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Rodarte
COUTURE International Jeweler l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l 43
All photos provided by WireImage. Photographers, from left to right: Randy Brooke, Thomas Concordia, Randy Brooke, JP Yim
any called the September 2008 Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week lackluster. While it might have been boring for catwalk critics, a toned-down runway may
OPERA JEWELS LLC
O
DESIGNER PROFILE CLODAGH
Your store, your sanctuary World-renowned decorator Clodagh champions deluxe, eco-conscious style >> Randi Molofsky he list of one-name wonders in this world is tiny – think Prince, Madonna or Bono. If you happen to follow interior design, chances are you can add Clodagh to that list. Irish by birth but New York-based, her accomplishments are impressive even to the layperson: Over the past 25 years, she has been named one of the World’s 100 Leading Interior Designers by Architectural Digest, has been inducted into Interior Design’s Hall of Fame, wrote a popular coffee table book, titled Total Design, and has created interiors for luxury hotels, spas and even Robert Redford. Her sun-drenched full-floor showroom in downtown Manhattan is filled with archives of furniture and art, but organized in such a way that the effect is calming. “I believe in silent design,” Clodagh explains. “There shouldn’t be a lot of visual clutter going on.” This fascination with serenity began when she was introduced to the practices of Feng Shui in
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1985, and she’s worked with master Sarah Rossbach ever since to eliminate harmful energy from her spaces. Today, Clodagh’s focus is largely on eco-design and partnering with companies that practice fair trade and fair employment. Clodagh is now celebrating a quarter century in the world of interiors, but her professional career began in fashion. After a horseback riding injury left her in bed with a broken back for nearly a year, she answered an ad in the Irish Times looking for dress designers. Her talent matched her ambitiousness, and so, at age 17, she began work under her own name. “I worked with very architectural fabrics, and I was always very conscious of how clothes made people look,” she says. “There’s also a balance between what someone is wearing and how they look in a room.” This, she notes, is important for jewelers to realize. If a woman looks cool and detached, put her in red jewelry, she explains.
Her newest book, Your Home, Your Sanctuary, was released by Rizzoli in October. A virtual how-to for decorating room by room, the large-format book is filled with images and tips for making your time at home as peaceful as possible, including a call to use the five senses in all aspects of design. “I particularly love to work with water,” Clodagh says. “Since the body is 70 percent water, it makes logical sense to incorporate it into our surroundings.” Her showroom proves this principle: A stone coffee table is cut down the center with a small river and smooth stones; it sits near floor lights surrounded by bubbling water. Luckily, Clodgah’s principles of home can and should be applied to the workspace, especially a luxury jewelry store. “It’s truly all about comfort,” she says. “Jewelry is a heavy investment, and when you’re selling, you’re really in the hospitality business.” The entryway to your store should be of the highest importance, and something that reflects a shift from street to showroom. Clodagh’s mantra of “no clutter, no chatter” should be especially important in this transitional space. Comfort is also expressed in the details. Clodagh suggests making sure your customers have a place to sit and rest their handbags, and lighting that flatters. “Uplights should be balanced with downlights,” she says. “And, most importantly, a customer should never have to look down into a mirror; it immediately adds 20 years to your face.” Other details include small luxuries like fresh flowers and refreshments — but not reheated coffee or tea in a paper cup. “Invest in a machine that makes individual cups of fresh-brewed coffee or espresso, and offer it in glassware or china that represents the feel of your store. Present it on a beautiful tray. Your customers will feel pampered.” Perhaps more than anything, Clodagh believes that charity will lead to prosperity. One of her pet projects, Clodagh Cares, benefits the Thorn Tree Project in Northern Kenya. Hand-beaded accessories made by Kenyan locals are available through her Web site, and all proceeds go to construction and maintenance of the Thorn Tree School. She is also committed to using local artisans in her projects around the world. “We are very community orientated — when we open a spa or hotel, we always invite local artists to contribute to the design, and then invite them to meet the community. It’s a wonderful way to use cooperation to create something beautiful.” ■ Deck the walls Opposite page: The Landmarc Restaurant at the Time Warner Center in New York City features private dining booths and metal chandeliers by Jessica Bodner. This page, top to bottom: Wood, steel and LED lights are all art of the decor at Landmarc. A pied-a-terre in Manhattan uses a decorative metal Sun Form sconce by Merja Winqvist. A private residence overlooking Central Park combines an accent wall of combed metallic-finished papier mache, a Padao-wood bed and a Liceo hanging lamp from Santa & Cole with a crushed bronze wire mesh shade.
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TASTEMAKERS LESLIE HARRINGTON
COUTURE International Jeweler: What will impact our color choices in 2009? Leslie Harrington: One of the topics we had discussions around was the whole organic movement. We’ve seen a resurgence of gardening, and the consequence of that is we started seeing more vegetable-dyed colors, which will be something consumers will be looking for, like beets or saffron or ginger. A lot of that harkens back to olden times, when we used to use vegetable dyes to dye fabric. CIJ: What other color trends do you see for next year? LH: Overall, we see a very strong warming of the palette into reds and oranges. Purple is quite strong, and blue is a constant. In women’s fashion we see a lightening of the color palette — lots of blues and greens and watery mid-tones. Another color emerging is teal. We consistently talk about the rebirth of coral, an evolution of orange.
It happened tomorrow For Leslie Harrington, one of the world’s leading color forecasters, next year is already old news wice a year, Leslie Harrington Ph.D, executive director of the New Yorkbased Color Association, gathers her advisory board, comprised of retailers, manufacturers, interior designers and consultants, to talk about the future. Specifically, the group ponders what the world will look like 24 months down the line. They began talking about the environment seven years ago, and — guess what? — they’re still talking about it, though the issue has evolved to include a greater focus on gardening, the soon-to-befelt impact of skyrocketing food prices and, of course, the darkening economy. She spoke to us shortly before the Fall/Winter 20102011 forecasting meeting, which, given the uncertainties in the marketplace, promised to be livelier than usual.
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CIJ: Has any color become passé? LH: We’re not seeing deep chocolate brown. It’s not so much that it’s passé, but it’s evolved to a more mid-tone, like a cigar-brown, a tobacco-brown or a chestnut brown. CIJ: What’s with all this lightening? LH: Sometimes colors don’t change, but we see an overall lightening of the palette or a change in contrasts. For example, in the ’90s we saw sea foam green and peach paired together when that warm/cool combination was in. But today we see more warm/warm and cool/cool contrasts, like blues and greens together, or oranges, yellows and reds. We talk about the world flattening, becoming much more global, so cultural influence is becoming more significant in our world, and those color palettes tend to be warm/warm combinations that remind us of southern latitudes, or Mexico. CIJ: And China and India? LH: Absolutely. In 2008, we had two color palettes, the Far East and Indian Markets, both much bolder and richer and more intense. When we started to talk about China, we knew the Olympics were coming in and we’d see a lot of national pride — a big ball of cultural experience — that was coming and would influence people, if on an unconscious level. You can’t help but love those opulent reds and yellows. CIJ: So what’s brewing for 2010? LH: We just did 2010, and in November we’ll be doing Fall/Winter 2010-2011. I can hardly wait to see what everybody brings to the table. I know the economy will be at the forefront. By fall ’10-’11, are things going to be better? And if not, how will consumers be feeling? Will they be looking to buy color? We’ll be meeting post-election, so we’ll talk about what the impact of the next president will be. We’ll talk Indian idol The Kali Ma pendant from EV Jewelry Design, in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds and Burmese and Brazilian rubies in marquise, round and pear shapes, reflects the vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry, as well as the reds and yellows that go with it.
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ANTWERP | DUBAI | HONG KONG | JOHANNESBURG | MUMBAI | NEW YORK | SHANGHAI | TEL AVIV | TOKYO
TASTEMAKERS LESLIE HARRINGTON
TASTEMAKERS MARY GEHLHAR
about the evolution of past influences, and new ones on the horizon. CIJ: Are all colors destined to come back? LH: All colors are cyclical, but not all run in the same cycle pattern. Hot pink will cycle faster — say, a year. Dark brown will last longer, maybe four to five years, because it’s got longevity, more uses and can be combined easier. CIJ: Since you’re gauging the future, what issues do you see that consumers might not? LH: There’s tremendous inflationary pressure on food, and that will eventually become one of the greatest issues, when a sack of flour goes from $10 to $40 or a slice of pizza that used to be $1.50 is now $3. The staples are increasing: flour, rice, cheese. We’re not 100 percent sure how it will go — will it have an impact? What does it mean? We want to eat healthy, but when it becomes cost-prohibitive, what do we do? Pasta used to be considered a value meal — you could feed a family of four on it. But people in the restaurant business say margins are gone with the cost of flour going up. And it becomes almost a luxury. CIJ: Are your forecasts always right? LH: Some people accuse forecasters of being the color mafia. They say we put out yellow and now I have to buy yellow because that’s all that’s available. But consumers are the ones who ultimately decide what to buy. As it becomes more expected and gains traction, yellow becomes the color until it reaches a point of saturation and nobody wants it anymore. We look to infuse newness in the market. Consumers want something different — they just don’t always know what it is. CIJ: Finally, I can’t help but ask, do you have a favorite color? LH: I have been on the orange bandwagon for a while. I’m reluctant to get on the purple bandwagon, and I used to love red but have dropped off that bandwagon. So it’s interesting to see how things change. I’d say the biggest direction for me is wearing lighter colors. I’m trying not to wear black all the time. ■
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Passion for fashion Mary Gehlhar offers solace for aspiring ‘recessionistas’ s vice president of brand strategy at Gen Art, a national organization that promotes new talent in film, fashion, visual arts and music, Mary Gehlhar, author of The Fashion Designer Survival Guide, knows all too well the trials and tribulations facing emerging designers, especially now, as the economy flirts with disaster. Jewelers who offer innovative styles at accessible price points are in a good position to ride out the storm, she says, because 2009 is shaping up to be the Year of the Accessory. As if to prove her point, she says that at a recent series of Gen Art-sponsored shopping nights featuring clothing and accessories from numerous designers, jewelry was the easiest sell. Here she gives us her feedback on the spring 2009 runway shows and tells us which trends promise to stick.
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COUTURE International Jeweler: How would you describe the mood in the fashion industry at the moment? Mary Gehlhar: People are obviously nervous, especially when it comes to investing in new designers. But they also feel it’s an opportunity for the best of the best to shine. There’s optimism about the opportunities that are out there. Stores are cutting back, but when they’re buying they’re looking for
Alpilex Diamond MFG. BVBA Pelikaanstraat 78, room 604-605, Box 140 2018 Antwerpen - Belgium tel. (32)(3) 233 91 60 - Fax (32) (3) 225 12 81 e-mail: alpilex@pandora.be
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TASTEMAKERS MARY GEHLHAR
TASTEMAKERS PIERS FAWKES
something really exciting. Shoppers already have the basics, but when they do buy they’re looking for that one really interesting item to add flair to their outfit. CIJ: What trends do you expect to dominate 2009? MG: Spring ’09 is a great time to talk about jewelry, because in some ways it outshone the clothing. Really big, tons of color and tons of it everywhere. All the stacking and layering, so much texture and chunkiness. The downturn is definitely not coming through as minimalism. The color and cheerfulness is great. While people cut back on clothing, they may spend a little more on accessories to freshen up what they already own. They’ll be able to update something they already own with 20 coral necklaces. CIJ: It’s almost as if designers are refusing to surrender to all the economic doom and gloom. MG: Yeah, because everything is big and everything is plentiful and that’s true for all accessories: belts, shoes, bags. CIJ: Which of the spring collections stood out? MG: Marc Jacobs’ collection was amazing: the color, silhouettes, the layering. It was so fun and beautiful and optimistic. It was a top 10 for just about everybody. I thought Rodarte was beautiful and truly visionary. And Philip Lim. He is so relevant. His clothes are easy to wear and have a price point that is understandable. I thought Lanvin was crazy beautiful. And on the runway, Zac Posen’s use of jewelry was really on trend: geometric, stacking, black and white, which is the other side of all this color. CIJ: Are any of these fashion designers using precious materials? MG: Now that I think about it, everything I’ve talked about has been costume jewelry because of its scale. CIJ: Right. It would be difficult to pull off that kind of volume in 18-karat gold. It makes me wonder how fine jewelers are supposed to promote luxury when the economy is so fragile. MG: You talk about collectibles, about heirlooms, about things to pass down. Emerging designers still hope there’s a market in Asia. Two weeks ago, I would have said Russia was still a place to sell, but that isn’t the case today. CIJ: So what’s your gut feeling about the new year? MG: I think it’s going to be bad, but there is an opportunity for innovation. There’s a lot of stuff out there, and I think the cream will rise to the top. If your stuff is fresh and innovative, there will be enough of a market to get you through. ■ Super-size Oversize statement necklaces, like Rhonda Faber Green’s Verde five-strand number in sterling silver with black diamonds, are trending big for 2009.
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Content king Piers Fawkes, CEO and founder of PSFK, traffics in the global currency of good ideas n an economy that values knowledge as both a product and a tool, having access to bright ideas determines who has the edge. Piers Fawkes, CEO and founder of PSFK, a New York-based trend consultancy that counts Apple and Target among its clientele, knows that better than most. His flagship Web site, PSFK.com, is nothing so much as a compendium of the quirkiest, most inventive and avantgarde ideas circulating in popular, business and consumer culture. Not for nothing does it receive up to half a million visitors a month. Shortly after returning from Singapore, where PSFK staged its sixth global conference in October, Fawkes talked to us about some of the best brainstorms to emerge from this troubled year, including a few abstract thoughts on luxury that may surprise you.
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TASTEMAKERS PIERS FAWKES
COUTURE International Jeweler: What’s your take on the downturn in the economy? Piers Fawkes: We’re trying to be positive. We’re getting ready to release a “good ideas” report. We normally do a trends issue around this time, but what would we say? “This sucks, that sucks.” We’re trying to stimulate the bounce. CIJ: Of the things you’ve covered in the past year, what has caught your attention? PF: We’ve been looking at something called “analog love.” I wouldn’t call it a technology backlash but a nostalgic reinterpretation of products. We see this with a revival of notebooks. Muji just came out with something called the Chronotebook, which is a day-planner organized on an analog axis, like a clock. Even in technology, we’re seeing a celebration of analog. The iPhone has an application that turns your phone into something that looks like an old-fashioned clock. We’ve seen wind-up toys rather than ones you have to stick a battery in, and a move away from plastic that’s been going on for a while. I wouldn’t call it a backlash to technology but a nostalgic appreciation of the past. CIJ: Have any retail or luxury trends intrigued you? PF: Well, we’ve been thinking about more abstract things that are luxurious. For example, the idea of light as a luxury. Many of us work in cramped offices, so light becomes a luxury. In retail, you see that with large windows and so forth, to provide this light. Another idea is clarity, minimalism and the clearing of clutter. We’re seeing a backlash against
outdoor advertising — the idea that it’s a luxury to have a clean environment. Also, the growth of secret societies, not so much because people want to be exclusive but because you want to get away from things with like-minded people. You see this with secret restaurants, secret bars, restaurants that aren’t in restaurants but are in someone’s house. CIJ: You were just in Singapore. How’s the credit crisis being perceived in Asia? PF: There was the sense that this was a Western issue and not a problem for Asia. There’s still a feeling of opportunity, and there’s still ground to make up over there. There didn’t seem to be a lot of pessimism. Obviously, the Singapore market got hammered as well, but places like that have a sheer drive to succeed. It’s a planned economy designed to be a safe harbor for business. Digital technology has leveled the playing field, as has the rise of the creative class and the creator class. These people can be fashion designers one day and graphic artists or even retailers the next. This class of artists and creatives is now emerging. We think of London, New York and Los Angeles as creative hubs, but soon we might be looking to Asia for ideas.
Asian invasion The skyline of Singapore’s central business district, where a rising creative class is poised to take the next decade, if not the century, by storm.
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CIJ: Finally, amid all this talk of recession and depression, do you think we’ll start seeing a backlash to luxury? PF: Different people will buy for different reasons. I think the brands we choose will, theoretically, have meaning and a story. We pay more for things with story, and I think that’s what people are looking to buy. The fact is that so many brands have no real heritage or they’ve lost their heritage, and that’s going to change our perception of luxury. ■
Image courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board
CIJ: And Dubai? PF: I don’t see that as much. There has to be an element of culture and history to a hub. Singapore is only 43 years old but has a tremendous amount of history, whereas some city-states don’t have that. It’s got far more of that than a place that was built up on the edge of the sea somewhere. The creative class, the creator class, has to come from the ground up.
MARKETPLACE MUMBAI
Made in India Foreigners eye the Indian market while the locals promote their jewels to the world o virtually every adult with access to a newspaper or television, it should come as no surprise that the credit crunch has taken its toll on the jewelry industry. Special mention, however, should be made of India, whose domestic jewelry market is growing at such a pace that even in the face of global recession, it looks poised to weather the chaos. The platform from which a good portion of domestic business is done is the India International Jewelry Show, organized by the quasi-governmental Gem and Jewelry Export Promotion Council. The fair takes place every year during the first half of August in the NSE exhibition complex in north Mumbai, a venue not without its share of logistical problems (a propensity to flood during monsoon season, for example). This year’s edition, though lighter than expected on business (due, of course, to the darkening economy), saw heavy traffic thanks to the council’s strategic courting of foreign exhibitors. A first-time pavilion of Israeli diamantaires reflected Israel’s eagerness to get a piece of the action. “The Indian consumer market shows tremendous potential,” said Moti Ganz, chairman of the Israel Diamond Institute. “Indians traditionally have designed, created and consumed diamond and gem-studded jewelry. We are very excited to participate in this show and look forward to creating mutually beneficial business ties with the Indian diamond industry.” While the local market continues to attract foreigners, a parallel effort is under way at the council to actively promote Indian-made jewelry to overseas buyers. The first target is the Middle East, with show organizers going so far as to suggest an IIJS sister show may one day open in Dubai or Sharjah, two of the United Arab Emirates. While the U.S. market lingers in uncertainty, the Indians also hope to penetrate new territories, including Russia, Iran and Pakistan, said Sanjay Kothari, the outgoing chairman of the GJEPC. “We have had a lot of Pakistani jewelers come to the show in the last four years,” he said. “Hopefully by 2009 we will be able to make inroads.” The organizers of IIJS are also on a mission to elevate the reputation of Indian-made jewels. The vehicle for this campaign is the IIJS Signature Goa show, scheduled to run in the seaside resort Feb. 20-23. By limiting the show to 150 to 200 high-end exhibitors, the organizers, Kothari said, hope “to show the world that India is capable of making jewelry on par with the Italians.” ■
T
So sari The India International Jewelry Show is held near a concentration of Bollywood studios. That might explain why the fair stages elaborate fashion shows starring a plethora of leading ladies dressed in lavish, bejeweled saris. The 2008 edition included 24 companies from Israel, whose diamantaires are eyeing the fast-growing domestic market.
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Diamonds love Antwerp Visit the Antwerp Diamond Pavilions Worldwide:
Macau • Vicenza • Hong Kong Basel • Istanbul • Shanghai • Las Vegas Mumbai • Dubai
www.awdc.be
Where furniture meets art
Photo courtesy of Rove Gallery
Photo by visitlondonimages/britainonview
MARKETPLACE LONDON
n mid-October, just as the stock market was crashing (again), the who’s who of the contemporary art world converged on London to attend the mammoth Frieze fair. In their haste to discover new art from brand name and emerging talents, it’s possible they overlooked a smaller event, DesignArt London, running concurrently with the Frieze. As a showcase for vintage and contemporary furniture and decorative arts, the five-day fair, staged in Berkeley Square, in the heart of Mayfair, featured designs that were by turns elegant and avant-garde, and went a long way in promoting the notion that design is as inherently collectible as fine art. Some 40 international exhibitors participated, including prestigious gallerists like David Gill in London, Galerie Downtown in Paris and Contrasts Gallery in Shanghai. The mood was subdued and the attendance less than stellar, but the design, in all its regal, provocative and space-age splendor, didn’t disappoint. Paul Insect’s glass Skelli table, at the Rove Gallery booth, was among the exhibition’s more fascinating, if grotesque, pieces. Balanced on a bronze skeleton wearing Playboy bunny ears, it sold to a Russian collector for 50,000 pounds, according to Bloomberg. Most offerings were considerably less pointed. At the Carpenters Workshop Gallery, Wendell Castle’s
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graceful Abilene rocking chair in stainless steel flowed as naturally as water, while his Seneca hall table in fiberglass and gold leaf seemed to herald the next Gilded Age. Aficionados of modernist Danish design flocked to Dansk Mobelkunst, whose collection of functional furniture epitomized that nation’s much-admired aesthetic. And fans of the design sensibility to emerge from the Cold War — practical yet simultaneously poetic furniture, such as Eero Saarinen’s cocoon-like Womb Chair — were delighted by the abundance of slick, rounded designs evoking 2001: A Space Odyssey. In a lovely coincidence, “Cold War Modern,” a major exhibition at the nearby Victoria and Albert Museum, had just opened, making clear that today’s design stars owe much to the futuristic inventions born of the tense rivalry between the United States and the Soviet Union: soaring television towers and space-trawling satellites, to be sure, but also streamlined looks and sensible products. Rounding out the fair’s selection of objects was the Louisa Guinness Gallery’s jewelry collection, including a beguiling enamel necklace from Man Ray. Perhaps more than any other object at the fair, it affirmed that true artists are able to distill the essence of modernity using any form of media. ■ Divine design Paul Insect’s Skelli table and Wendell Castle’s Abilene chair and Seneca hall table were among the works shown at DesignArt London.
Furniture photos courtesy of Barry Friedman Ltd., New York and Carpenters Workshop Gallery
The second annual DesignArt London fair touts the concept of collectible furniture and objets
C O U T U R E
A D V E R T O R I A L
BASELWORLD The World Watch and Jewellery Show Where Business begins and Trends are created Discovering innovations, pinpointing trends and forging valuable personal contacts – BASELWORLD offers the ideal platform for all of these. The biggest and most important event globally in the watch and jewellery industry is being held from March 26 to April 2, 2009 in Basel, Switzerland. The key players of the global watch and jewellery industry meet up once a year at BASELWORLD. Decision makers and eminent figures from the exhibitor companies, as well as buyers and the media appreciate the unique business atmosphere that prevails at the World Watch and Jewellery Show. Over a total of eight days, more than 2’000 companies from the watch, jewellery, precious-stone and related sectors present their new products and the innovations of the year. Occupying a surface area of 160’000 m2 – in multi-storey stands in some cases – our exhibitors present impressive brand worlds at the topmost level, showcasing the full range of their know-how and their enormous creativity at BASELWORLD. Attracting more than 100’000 visitors, BASELWORLD constitutes the biggest networking platform in the sector. It provides an opportunity to foster existing relationships and to forge new, personal contacts. Buyers from all over the world come here to gain an overview of everything that is on offer in the watch and jewellery industry. The preparations for BASELWORLD 2009 are in full swing. Alongside the customary extensive range of prod66 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler
ucts, the sophisticated infrastructure and the professional services provided, there will also be a number of innovations awaiting our visitors. Come and experience the unique atmosphere that prevails at this globally leading event. We extend a warm invitation to you to enjoy the exceptional ambiance at BASELWORLD and to combine the fascinating world of watches and jewellery with business success.
BASELWORLD 2009 The World Watch and Jewellery Show Date: Place: Opening hours: Admission: Organiser: Internet: E-mail: Statistics 2008:
Thursday, March 26 to Thursday, April 2, 2009 Exhibition Center Basel Daily 9 am to 6 pm From 9 am to 4 pm on the last day 1 day pass CHF 60.00 8 day pass CHF 150.00 MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd. www.baselworld.com visitor@baselworld.com Number of visitors: 106'800 Number of exhibitors: 2'087 Accredited journalists: 2'981 Gross floor space: 160'000 m2 Net floor space: 116'100 m2
BASELWORLD THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 26 – APRIL 2, 2009
WHERE BUSINESS BEGINS AND TRENDS ARE CREATED WWW. BASELWORLD.COM
P R O M O T I O N
Asian Gallery
C O U T U R E
Prinn Collection - Anemone Ring Center Tahitian blue pearl with blue, yellow & purple sapphires, diamonds, on white gold 18K prinncollection@gmail.com
ONG Jewelry Design - Thai Elephant bangle Diamonds & sapphires on pink gold www.ongjewelry.com
I N F L U E N C E S
collections
Mother Russia The former Soviet Union is a fertile breeding ground for new jewelry talent Nearly two decades into the great capitalist experiment, Russia and its former republics are a bastion — perhaps the last bastion — of unbridled spending, plunging oil prices and sinking stock markets be damned. It makes perfect sense, then, that on the international scene, Russian jewelers are finally having their moment. From the rebirth of the Faberge brand under new management (scheduled for spring 2009) to the emergence of a new class of designers whose jewels draw on traditionally Russian themes and techniques — skilled enamel work and expert stone-setting, chief among them — the Russian jewelry diaspora is more active than ever. In Los Angeles, M&L Jewelry, founded by brothers Michael and Leon Landver, originally from Kiev, has manufactured a collection of cocktail rings that re-create the cupolas of Red Square and the pillows once used by czarinas to rest their royal feet. Designed by Armenian expat Jirayr Gyurjyan, the dramatic semiprecious stones that make up the collection — picture jawbreaker-sized spheres of faceted quartz and topaz set atop wide 18-karat gold shanks — suggest that the Russian aesthetic is “elegant but also a little barbarian,” says Michael Landver.
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Brooklyn-based designer Lena Sklyut, who emigrated from Belarus 16 years ago, would probably agree. Her Julia cuff features a smoky topaz of nearly 500 carats, and conveys in both scale and symbolism an unmistakable sense of power. It’s fitting that her signature motif is a snake, an animal she describes as “elegant, wise and flexible — like all the good parts of a woman.” Equally enticing are the “romantic avant-garde” jewels of Kiev-based Lobortas & Karpova, founded 17 years ago by the husband-and-wife team of Igor Lobortas and Irina Karpova. The company’s collection of one-of-a-kind rings, brooches, necklaces and earrings celebrate Ukrainian culture, as well as the ancient Greek and Byzantine traditions that preceded it. Some pieces incorporate religious icons, like medieval crosses or Stars of David, while others have been designed as objets d’art. A point of pride for Lobortas & Karpova is that all the jewels are handmade, including the enamel series, which takes its inspiration from the enameled eggs designed by Peter Carl Faberge, the legendary jeweler to the czars. “We have spent many years trying to find our own secrets and jewelry techniques,” states the company Web site, “because our main goal is to create things that can be compared with high-class works by Faberge, Cartier, Shlumberger and other jewelry gurus of the past.” Although the faltering economy may slow Russian jewelers’ efforts to go global, appealing to domestic consumers may be the most viable option, given the Russian predisposition to luxury. “These people want the best of the best,” says Dr. Clotaire Rapaille, a cultural anthropologist currently studying what he terms the “Russian code.” “They have no notion of the future, so they don’t have to save. There’s a notion of spending a lot of money to prove you’re alive.” Post-Soviet style Since the Soviet Union’s collapse, Russian-speaking jewelers from its former republics have proven that skilled artisanry didn’t die with it. From top, the Couture Emerald Skin necklace by Lena Sklyut; Tree Cross brooch with diamonds and enamel by Kiev-based Lobortas & Karpova; cocktail rings by M&L Jewelry in Los Angeles; and the Kindest Kind of Dragon ring by Lobortas & Karpova featuring a 44.9-carat amethyst.
I B E R J O YA FERIA DE MADRID
42 Salón de
Internacional la Joyería,
Platería, Relojería e I n d u s t r i a s A fi n e s Intern ation al Jeweller y, Silverware, Watch and Auxiliar y Industries Exhibition
14-18 enero/january
ORGANIZA / ORGANISED BY
LINEA IFEMA / IFEMA CALL CENTRE LLAMADAS DESDE ESPAÑA / CALLS FROM SPAIN INFOIFEMA 902 22 15 15 LLAMADAS INTERNACIONALES (34) 91 722 30 00 INTERNATIONAL CALLS FAX
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IFEMA
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iberjoya@ifema.es
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I N F L U E N C E S
trending
Faux sure “Costume jewelry has once again come into its own,” wrote The New York Times in a 1938 article lauding Chanel’s “flamboyant, iridescent” necklaces. That faux jewels were a hit during the Great Depression may explain why 70 years later, as we enter our own perfect storm of financial crises, the fashion world is renewing its appreciation for costume jewels. Vera Wang, Lanvin and Balenciaga were among the labels that emphasized dramatic accessories on the runways during the latest round of fashion shows. Rather than streamlining looks to reflect a pared-down sensibility, designers are piling things on, using layers of necklaces, stacks of bangles and voluminous metallics to deflect attention from the economy and its effect on our collective mood. Just look to the exuberant creations of Daniel Weinberger, a designer who collaborated with Anne Demeulemeester on both of her spring 2009 catwalk shows. From brass to strass, the faux materials he uses approximate the look of fine jewelry only insofar as both are eye-catching. Alas, when volume is in vogue, as it is today, the former becomes all the more appealing. Fine fakes From top, Yves Saint Laurent cuff in anthracite metal, earrings in gold tone metal with turquoise, crystal and strass, and cuff in gold tone metal with coral and glass. At bottom, a theatrical costume design from Daniel Weinberger, sold by London’s Kabiri. 72 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler
I N F L U E N C E S
Bangkok’s best Known among Thai high society for its bold, organic jewelry, Lotus Arts de Vivre introduces a line of furniture and objets d’art sure to enthrall collectors “Where can you find a single seven-meter piece of mahogany?” asks Rolf von Bueren, chairman of Lotus Arts de Vivre, a family-run jewelry company in Bangkok, as he points to a 23-foot-long mahogany root sculpture carved in the likeness of a fierce, mythical eagle. “Where?” he repeats. Indonesia, as it turns out. What’s more, the massive mahogany bird, perched on a base of black granite, looks powerful enough to have flown here itself — here being the courtyard of the Lotus Arts de Vivre workshop, located on the outskirts of Bangkok near the southern loop of the Chao Phraya River. It’s arrived just in time for the occasion of its grand unveiling: a mid-September open house marking the launch of the company’s first major collection of furniture, tableware and large-scale objets d’art. That the $605,090 eagle, with its oxidized silver claws, engraved silver beak and resplendent silver tail feathers, required 17 people working continuously for 14 months to produce is just one indication of how seriously Lotus Arts de Vivre takes its mandate. The firm, beloved by collectors the world over, produces a range of Asian-inspired jewels, handbags and lifestyle accessories that celebrate the raw and organic beauty of Mother Nature, while simultaneously adhering to standards of such fine craftsmanship that they’ve earned a reputation as “the Cartier of Asia.” “Everything we do starts with the raw materials,” Rolf says, as he leads a group of visitors into a room laden with stacks of stingray skins, bins of nautilus shells and other organic materials sourced from the region. “We sit on huge stocks and have a fingerprint system to track inventory. The fun is in the production; selling is actually a bore.” But sell they do — to connoisseurs and captains of industry, heads of state and royalty — at stand-alone boutiques located in some of the finest hotels in the world. Chief among them are Raffles in Singapore, the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok and the Setai in Miami, not to mention a scattering of select retailers, including Bergdorf Goodman in New York and Cindy Griem Fine Jewels in Aspen, Colo. The von Buerens, a close-knit foursome composed of Rolf, his wife, Helen, and their sons, Sri and Nicki, have invited interior designers, property developers and longtime friends of the company to the weekend-long open house, in an initial attempt to attract interest in the interiors category. “We’ve always been asked to help decorate houses, so we’ve always done household items,” says Rolf as he walks Animal farm Using a single workshop stocked with an inventory of precious and exotic materials and a team of skilled craftspeople, Lotus Arts de Vivre is able to create an impressive array of objects. Jewelry, such as the carved emerald and pearl bead necklace shown above, came first, followed in recent months by a menagerie of animals, including this 7-meter-long mahogany eagle and fearsome crocodile. The croc’s body is made of iron wood, while its skull once belonged to a real beast, sourced and carved in Indonesia.
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a visitor through a veritable garden of silvery crocodiles featuring real-life skulls carved by Indonesian artisans. “They’re easier to sell than jewelry; they’re easier to understand.” Although Lotus Arts de Vivre had its beginnings in jewelry 25 years ago, when Helen began designing pieces for friends after Sri and Nicki went away to boarding school, the von Buerens have parlayed their significant expertise in using traditional Thai techniques into creating hundreds of large-scale objects, ranging from fantasy furniture covered in fine layers of gold leaf to diamond-encrusted walking sticks shaped like birds’ heads, their ruby eyes glistening in the tropical sun. What lends the diverse assortment a startling degree of artistic unity is the attention to detail that imbues even the most fantastical octopus carving or fearsome dragon’s head with a sense of authenticity. A five-headed snake, for example, carved from dark brown iron wood, has a split tongue, fangs and coils made of oxidized silver, like a mutant reptile that’s been dipped in a metallic bath and preserved for science. In this way, Lotus Arts de Vivre takes its inspiration from the rich tradition of Thai folk art nurtured by Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, whose Foundation for the Promotion of Supplementary Occupations and Related Techniques, or SUPPORT Foundation, teaches villagers uniquely Thai versions of techniques like silverware, embroidery, basketry and damascene so that they may always live on in Thai culture. The products of her royal patronage, on display at the “Arts of the Kingdom” exhibition currently being held at Bangkok’s Dusit Palace, include an elaborate diamond-studded pavilion throne that required 285 artisans one year to complete and a wood-carved screen that tells the “Legend of Bejaratana,” a tale of deities and celestial beings in audience with Lord Shiva, querying him on the origin of the nine auspicious gems. “We are only a shadow of what she does,” Rolf says. The king and queen of Thailand don’t, of course, have to contend with budgets. From a business perspective, Lotus Arts de Vivre’s decision to extend the brand into furniture and interiors is both a creative and financial logical next step. “Post 9/11, people didn’t want to travel and started buying more for their homes. We focused in on two collections — jewelry and home décor — and this is the evolution of that,” says Nicki von Bueren, glancing at the vast array of objects that have emerged from the workshop in record time. The next, next step, of course, is global expansion. Rolf says Lotus Arts de Vivre is on the brink of finalizing franchise agreements with partners in Dubai, India and Russia. He hopes to ink a maximum of six to eight such deals in the near future. “We’re looking for people with a passion for the business, people who have buying power, self-confidence and taste,” Rolf says. “The focus is on markets where minimalism is not the accepted norm. You’ve got to afford to be exuberant in life.” Home improvement Lotus Arts de Vivre’s open house marked the company’s first effort to attract interior designers and hoteliers. These elephant candle holders made of liana wood, fantasy dining table covered in fine gold leaf, iron wood boar featuring a genuine skull, and seed pearl earrings were among the hundreds of objects on display. Chairman Rolf von Bueren hopes the expanding collection will lure like-minded franchise partners to the brand, to help bring its elegant, Asian-inspired vision to emerging markets in the future.
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COUTURE PRACTICES HAZOORILAL, DELHI
The middle passage Hazoorilal strikes a balance between tradition and modernity in Delhi’s southern suburbs ndia’s vast army of retail jewelers can broadly be divided into two loose categories: those who adhere to tradition by selling primarily 22-karat gold wedding jewelry, and those best described as progressive because they offer diamond- and gem-studded jewels inspired by both Indian and Western aesthetics. It’s not as subtle a distinction as it may seem. The former tend to be small, family-run affairs with little capacity for marketing and advertising yet strong word-of-mouth reputations within their respective communities, while the latter are larger operations with a varied jewelry selection, international sourcing relationships and a commitment to marketing, merchandising and education. In short, India’s progressive jewelers don’t eschew tradition so much as reinterpret it. Hazoorilal, a family-owned company with a flagship boutique in New Delhi’s upscale Greater Kailash neighborhood, is unquestionably among the latter. Founded nearly 60 years ago in south Delhi by patriarch Hazoorilal Narang, the company has since expanded to include two additional stores in Delhi as well as a fourth location in the Gurgaon Gold Souk. With its well-edited selection of pearl and diamond sets in discreet white gold as well as dramatic — and characteristically Indian — parures employing rose-cut diamonds, 22-karat gold and polki and kundan techniques, Hazoorilal has positioned itself as the choice for modern Indian jewelry consumers who like to strike the balance between past and present. “Our vision is to be the leading diamond specialty store in
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the country,” says Managing Director Ramesh Narang, who, together with his brother, Sandeep Narang, handles the day-to-day demands of the business. “There’s an intimacy we’ll always have the edge with. Our strength is our closeness and like-mindedness with the consumer.” This is no small feat. Nearly every major luxury goods provider has its sights set on the affluent Indian consumer. As the Louis Vuittons and Cartiers of the world struggle to find the right positioning in a market with a deeply entrenched jewelry mindset, Hazoorilal capitalizes on its home team advantage. During Indian festival periods such as Holi, Akshay-Tritya and Diwali, the flagship boutique’s window dressing reflects the company’s lavish yet elegant design philosophy. Inside, a color palette of ivory and warm, earthen hues complements the Italian Traventino marble. The ubiquitous “H” logo, found on brass tags placed throughout the showroom, not to mention all advertisements, packaging materials and even the cutlery, trays and glasses served to waiting clients, is Hazoorilal’s “company seal of guarantee,” like Tiffany’s iconic blue. “An elegant collection of designs with a wide choice for customers,” is how one customer, Mrs. Labroo from Noida, recently put it. We couldn’t have said it better ourselves. The changelings Delhi’s Hazoorilal has embraced a progressive approach to business by stocking contemporary diamond-set pieces such as these rings by Bapalal Keshavlal, a trusted supplier. At the same time, the model in this stylish company ad promotes ornate Indian jewelry.
E D ITO R I A L & A D V E RTI S E R S I N D E X A Adler, 24 AGTA, 36, 42 Alpilex, 61 Andreoli, 32, 39 Armenta, 63 Arunashi, 62 Asprey, 12, 22 Aurostyle, 41 Autore, 62 AWDC, 72-73 B Balenciaga, 72 Bangkok Fair, 69 Bapalal Keshavlal, 9, 12, 76 Barry Kronen, 29 BaselWorld Fair, 66-67 BCBG Max Azria, 42 Blumer, 21 Bochic, 12, 29 Boodles, 22 Braccialini, 22 Breuning, 25 Busch, 73 Bylu, 29, 30 C Calgaro, 20 Calvin Klein, 43 Carla Amorim, 19 Carrera y Carrera, CI, 18, 23 Cartier, 9, 11, 24 Catherine Angiel, 10, 22 Christian Bauer, 40-41 Christie’s, 32 Christophle, 20 Clodagh, 46-47 D Damiani, 8 Daniel Weinberger, 72 Daphna Simon, 18 Davite & Delucchi, 10 De Beers, 24 De Grisogono, 9 Derek Lam, 42 E, F Eero Saarinen, 64 Ego vetri delle venezie, 20 Elyssa Bass Designs, 23 Erica Courtney, 9 Eurostar, 50-51 EV Jewelry Design, 15, 18, 52 Faberge, 70 Fabio Salini, 26 Futura, 12 G, H, I Gem Palace, 32
Geoffrey Good, 16 Georg Spreng, 14, 15 GIA, 59 Gianna, 11 Giannini, 11 Gioielleria Nardi, 23 GlamRock, 27 Gumuchian, 15, 16 Gurhan, 15, 20 Hearts On Fire, 18 Helena de Natalio, 14, 16, 24 Hellmuth, 11 Herbstrith, 19 HKTDC Fair, 65 Hubris and Homefries, 26 Iberjoya Fair, 71 IDI, 48-49 Intercolor USA, 60-61 Irene Neuwirth, 16 J, K, L J.R. de Bellard Fine Jewelry, 19 JA NY Fair, 77 Jada Loveless, 8, 19 Jeanne Johngren Design, 11, 13, 18 K. Brunini Jewels, 22, 24 Kabiri, 8, 72 Karat Platinum, 30, 32 Kathy Rose, 24 Kazanjian by Patrick M, 13 Kiara, 14 Kompass Diamond, 57 Kwiat, 78 La Nouvelle Bague, 10 Lanvin, 28, 72 Lata K Designs, 13 Lena Sklyut Couture, 13, 15, 24, 70 Lisa Cotten, 26 Lobortas & Karpova, 22, 70 Lotus Arts de Vivre, 22, 24, 74-75 Lydia Courteille, 9, 26 M, N M&L Jewelry, 70 Man Ray, 64 Manuel Bozzi, 24 Manuel Vilhena, 16 Marc Jacobs, 42, 58 Marcin Zaremski, 16 Marco Bicego, 14 Martha O’Brien, 18 Mikimoto, 14 Miu Miu, 29 Moissanite, 10 Narciso Rodriguez, 43
Niessing, 10 Nina Runsdorf, 11, 23 Ninetto Terzano, 12 O, P ONG Jewelry Design, 68 Oroarezzo Fair, CIII Palmiero, CIV Paul Insect, 64 Paula Crevoshay, 13, 15, 22 Perry Gargano, 18 Phillip Lim, 43, 58 Picchiotti, 5, 9 Podicko, 17 Prinn Collection, 68 R Rafinity, 10 Recarlo, 31 Richard Wise, 38 Rio Tinto, 74 Robert Wan, 18 Roberto Coin, 22, 32, 44, 68 Ronald Abram, 24 Rosy Blue, 45, 57 S Schoeffel, 23, 24 Shana London, 9, 15 Sieger, 10, 14, 19 Slane & Slane, 20 Sonja Picard, 20 Staurino Fratelli, 19 Stephen Webster, 13, 14, 20, 22, 23 Style LA Swim and Resort Wear Show, 8, 11-12, 16, 19, 23-24, 26 Supreme Jewelry, 22 Suzanne Syz, 16 Swarovski, 34-39 T, U Tamara Comolli, 8 Tamir, 9, 12, 13, 16 Tanzanite Foundation, 60-61 Tara & Sons, 26 The Fifth Season, 3, 19 Twist, 32 Unicorn, 33 V, W, Y, Z Valente Milano, 26, 44-45 Vera Wang, 42, 72 Viren Bhagat, 32 Waldman Diamonds, 10 Wendell Castle, 64 Yael Sonia, 9, 14 Yves Saint Laurent, 72 Zac Posen, 58 Zeira, 9, 19, 26 Zydo, 15
For All that Glitters W W W. J A - N E W YO R K . C O M
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COUTURE PRACTICES KWIAT, NEW YORK
Guiding light The new Kwiat flagship boutique translates the feel of its diamond jewelry into a retail setting or a jewelry firm like Kwiat, it’s all about sparkle. Diamonds have been the Kwiat family’s stock in trade since 1908, so when the idea of opening a flagship boutique on Manhattan’s Madison Avenue presented itself two years ago, there was no question as to what mattered most in the design scheme. “Diamonds are all about light, about the way they make light dance,” says Greg Kwiat, chief financial officer. “We wanted a wall treatment that had a similar optical effect. The silver leaf wall coverings play with the light. In general, you want the color scheme to be light, because you don’t want the surrounding environment to darken up the store and the stones.” The 800-square-foot boutique the company chose opened in September with a launch event hosted by Academy Award winner Jennifer Hudson. It is a warm, inviting space decked out in a color palette of grays, creams and light blues. The champagne-colored walls, featuring a textured pattern of “cut” horizontal lines, do precisely what Kwiat intended: They scatter light throughout the salon, whose most striking feature is a grand atrium with soaring, 18-foot ceilings. The interior design details, including dramatic sconces, accessories covered in gray shagreen and tiny pin-dots on the glass case borders, which invite customers to take a closer look, lend the space a modern Deco charm. It goes without saying that the Kwiat jewelry collection, a love letter to timeless, elegant design, contributes much to the overall vibe. “The Kwiat aesthetic is classic,” Kwiat says. “We wanted the environment to feel comfortable, much like we want our jewelry to feel wearable, and for the space to feel warm, modern and contemporary.”
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78 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler
The company hired the firm Barteluce Architects & Associates to translate those feelings into interior design terms. At the entrance, visitors pass beneath a low canopy into a room featuring two facing rows of custom-built displays, each outfitted with satin nickel, framing glass counters and smoky blue wood supporting the bases. In the back, near the bridal and vintage jewelry showcases, a large white marble staircase curls up, toward a cozy gallery on the mezzanine floor, where a desk festooned with white orchids and a bar outfitted with antique barware greet VIPs and celebrity guests. The third-generation diamond jeweler had intended the New York flagship boutique to be its first store, but its salon in The Palazzo in Las Vegas opened ahead of schedule. The two locations represent Kwiat’s first foray into retail; instead of eyeing more stand-alone boutiques, the company hopes to create shop-in-shops with a select group of retail partners in the coming year. “We feel good despite the economy,” Kwiat says. “Obviously, it’s a difficult time in general. We’ve been through difficult periods before, but they all eventually turned around and became periods of economic prosperity. My grandfather and great grandfather, when the Depression came, they not only survived but did well by focusing on their core business. With humility, we hope to have the same success.” Dream team Academy Award winner Jennifer Hudson presided over the September opening party at the Kwiat flagship boutique. The 100-year-old diamond jewelry brand worked with Barteluce Architects & Associates to create an interior scheme that complemented the jewelry. “We wanted the environment to feel comfortable, much like we want our jewelry to feel wearable,” Greg Kwiat says.
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FREELY SPEAKING DR. G. CLOTAIRE RAPAILLE CIJ: How so? CR: Take, for example, airports. New York Kennedy, Atlanta? Terrible. Dubai? The new Hong Kong airport? Fantastic. How am I going to judge New York’s airport? I’ll compare it to Dubai and the Emirates airline. People are still selling business class without flat beds. Forget it. CIJ: What about luxury centers in established markets? CR: Where do you want to open a store? In New York, where you’re not going to make a profit and you’ll pay a lot of taxes? Or in Dubai, where there’s no tax and growth is about 20 to 30 percent? What is the rationale for not going there?
Go east, young brand Brands will soon measure their success based on the reaction they get in Dubai, says Dr. Rapaille In September, the grand old dame of American department stores, Bloomingdale’s, announced that in 2010 it will open its first overseas location in — you guessed it — Dubai, in a luxe mall housing not one but two of the retailer’s stores: a threelevel clothing emporium and a single-level home goods store, comprising about 200,000 square feet. One person not surprised to hear the news was Dr. G. Clotaire Rapaille, a French-born former child psychiatrist-turned-corporate consultant who has cultivated an interesting theory about the Middle Eastern metropolis. He believes the new model for global financial success revolves around city-states such as Dubai, Singapore and Macau. He calls these places hubs and the people who flock to them “hubbers.” We spoke to him about the implications for luxury marketers around the world. COUTURE International Jeweler: What’s the “Hub” theory all about? Dr. G. Clotaire Rapaille: There’s something happening in the world, a completely new model for economic and financial success. It’s not about New York, London or Paris. It’s about a group I call the “Hubbers.” They are French, Russian, American. They belong to a tribe of people who know the best, and they define the best. They define what is a seven-star hotel — the only one is in Dubai, and one night costs $1,600. I am trying to understand these people. It is not a market in itself but more than that. They decide the reference system for everyone else. 80 l Designing the Trends 2008-2009 l COUTURE International Jeweler
CIJ: But is that kind of growth sustainable? CR: Dubai is only making 4 percent of its growth through oil. But they have an incredible vision, and they are succeeding. They have the only seven-star hotel, Harvard Medical School is coming, the Louvre. It’s not a democracy. Sheikh Maktoum is considered the CEO of a corporation, and you don’t ask people to vote on healthcare. In the Western world, we still have to deal with unions. In America, everybody wants universal healthcare, but how do you do it? Raise taxes and then people leave. They go to Dubai [Laughs]. CIJ: What happens to Europe in this model? CR: Europe invented the city-state. Until the beginning of the 19th century, Venice was known worldwide. They had the best ships. They were free and open-minded. We lost it, and now Venice is awful. It’s full of drunken British and German tourists, and there are no more Venetians. They don’t protect what they have. The new model is Hong Kong and Singapore. All the Swiss banks moved to Singapore. Why? No taxes. Whereas Switzerland is under pressure from the rest of Europe. CIJ: What makes you think these hubs can beat Europe at its own game? CR: Because they’re attracting the best of the best. Macau does more business than Las Vegas and Atlantic City combined. It’s a kind of luxury people don’t understand. I was talking to a client with a store in a hotel in Macau, and one night a guy arrived and said, “I’ll buy the whole store.” We have to change our reference system. CIJ: So what should luxury marketers do? CR: The first thing is to understand the city-state model and where the concentration of money is going to be. We’re not looking at it as a market but as a place where trends are going to be decided. Of course you want to be there. You can see what works and make a lot of money, because you understand the way the world is going. It’s like a periscope to a higher world. Eastern promises Dubai’s Burj Al Arab is the world’s only (self-anointed) seven-star hotel. Dr. Clotaire Rapaille cites it as one example of the city-state’s increasing prominence among global trendsetters.