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No 294 / Winter - Trends Guide 2012


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TOP TEN TRENDS FOR 2012 Another year has gone by, and from observing designer jewellery from the Americas to Europe to Hong Kong to India and beyond, we again bring you the most prevalent trends for 2012. Since jewellery and fashion are linked, and since colour is the major trend in both jewellery and fashion, we also feature Pantone’s top ten colour directions for Spring/ Summer 2012, along with comments on these particular hues. The runways for S/S 2011 fashion were again awash in colour, with bold and sometimes contrasting tones. Colour blocking—although not new since it’s been around for awhile—is quite hot this season, with combinations of two or more areas of colour in one ensemble. And, as in fashion where blocks of solid colour are placed next to each other, colour blocking is also quite popular in jewellery. For examples, see our pages on the Top Ten Trends and on Multi-Coloured jewellery in this issue. The major directions for jewellery design for 2012 are mostly a continuation and evolution of past trends. The most important is the use of Colour, in all tones and hues, represented generally by a multitude of gemstones, followed by Nature-inspired themes, with flowers and butterflies leading the trend, but also including frogs and fish, snakes and scorpions, and various jungle motifs. The last few years have seen an increase in Openwork pieces, and with the high prices of metals, this is still a major design direction. Hoops in all sizes, shapes, and materials continue to be a fashion must-have, in plain metal or studded with gems, as are Cuffs in varying widths, materials, and shapes. Just as openwork in gold and platinum is a reflection of high metals prices, so is the growing use of Alternative materials, among them ceramic, enamel, brass, silver, titanium, bronze, wood, and steel in stylish designs. In a return to a more natural look, Rough and sliced gems and diamonds, drusies, or other more “earthy” materials are among the top trends, while for a certain group of consumers, Edgy or even other-worldly creations remain a favourite mode of adornment. Although they have been around for awhile, Tassels have joined the top ten this year given the large choices in styles and materials. The Personal touch rounds out the list, with beads, letters, lockets, and other pieces symbolizing personal lifestyles and tastes. In other articles in this issue, we travel to Brazil for a tour of mines, to bring you a glimpse into the world of amethyst and citrine, two of the most popular gemstones in the new “affordable luxury.” In an upcoming issue, we venture into the nation’s deposits of emeralds and tourmaline. We recently also attended an international conference in Jaipur, India where various aspects of the gem and jewellery trade were detailed, discussed, and debated. Ethical mining, sustainability, and fair trade were among the important issues on the agenda. Our usual designer profiles and reports on trends at the world’s trade fairs over the last few months round out this issue. The entire team at CIJ Trends & Colours wishes you a wonderful and prosperous New Year.

Cynthia An example of colour-blocking in fashion is seen in this outfit by Adrienne Vittadini, using the Pantone S/S 2012 colours of Tangerine and Bellflower, courtesy of the Pantone Fashion Color Report S/S 2012.

Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief / CIJ Trends & Colours 01


IN THIS ISSUE

On the Cover

Hammered yellow and white gold ring and bracelet with white diamonds by Vendorafa

Cover Feature on page 04

www.vendorafa.it www.operajewels.com

54

78 Marketplace Hong Kong – Haz Jewellery Design

Boldy Blue – Oscar Heyman

Editor’s Letter 01

Top Ten Trends for 2012

04

Vendorafa Lombardi – Innovation, Creativity, Craftsmanship

09 10 12 14 16 36 38 66 68

Vianna – Chic and Sophisticated Gemfields – A Force for Change Pamela Huizenga – Celebrating the Beauty of Imperfection Yael Sonia – Art in Motion Muzo International – Beyond Green Rodney Rayner – Stylish and Sophisticated Roberto Coin – Launches a New Challenge Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair Centurion – The Ultimate Fine Jewelry Experience

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour

64 70 74 78 82

Idar-Oberstein – Intergem Italian Design at about J and VicenzaOro Choice Style and Design at Brazil’s Feninjer Show Hong Kong September Fair – Another Record Year India’s IIJW and IIJS

38 42 44 88

First Mines to Market Coloured Gemstone Conference, India Gems and Jewellery in JaĂŻpur In Search of Amethyst and Citrine

Cover Feature

56

Profiles

Colours Trends

Perfectly Pink – Aaron Basha

Trends & Colours 50 52 54 56 58 60 62

Pure Gold Opulent Orange Boldy Blue Perfectly Pink Going Green In Living Colour The Jewellery of Art

34

Marketplace

62

Gemstones

Index

08 The Jewellery of Art - Madam SĂŁo Paulo

Chic and Sophisticated - Vianna

Top Ten Trends - Peter Som

Editor#YNTHIA5NNINAYARsContributors$IANA3:IMMERMAN 42&LORA 2AYAN)NNUE !NTONELLA3CORTA sAdvertising contacts Alexandra Montandon amontandon@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7847 / Nathalie Glattfelder nglattfelder@europastar.com T. +41 22 307 7832 / Italy - Alessandra Arati aarati@studioarati.it T. +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena csapena@europastar.es T. +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong maggietong@europastar.com 4 )NDIA "HUPAL0OTDARBHUPALPOTDAR MEDIA SCOPECOM4 53! +AREN.UCKOLSKAR?NUCKOLS YAHOOCOM4 sGraphic Design,AURENCE#HATENOUD 4ASHA5NNINAYARsManaging Director 0HILIPPE-AILLARDsOn the Web at: www.CIJintl.com and www.worldwatchweb.com - Published by Europastar HBM SA - 25 Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland - Tel: +41.22.307.7837; Fax: +41.22.300.3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com 0RINTEDIN'ENEVABY32/ +UNDIGs#OPYRIGHTBY%UROPA3TAR)NTERNATIONAL*EWELLERY All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ International Jewellery.


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Vendorafa Lombardi – Innovation, Creativity, Craftsmanship Vendorafa Lombardi draws on 60 years of traditional craftsmanship and savoir-faire, combined with today’s technology, to produce pieces that represent the best in creative Italian goldsmithing. Known for its innovation and research in the techniques of hammering and engraving, the brand’s organic forms, floral inspirations, and classic patterns in 18K gold and precious stones are characterized by dynamic shapes, spatial harmony, and rigorous patterns. To learn more about this brand and its marketing efforts, CIJ Trends & Colours talks with Augusto Ungarelli, CEO of the company. By Cynthia Unninayar CIJ Trends & Colours: How is Vendorafa Lombardi positioned in terms of product and the brand itself? Augusto Ungarelli: Vendorafa is positioned in the mid to upper range of the fine jewellery market. Its positioning is clear and precise due to various elements. These include the intrinsic characteristics of the product, the brand’s core values, and the audience we are addressing. It does not offer a “fashion” product in the normal sense—its designs are not fleeting, nor season-dependent; rather they are perennial and timeless. Every piece of Vendorafa jewellery is hand-finished in 18K gold by artisans drawing on sixty years of savoir-faire and tradition, while experimenting and innovating with the techniques of hammering, engraving, and embossing to provide texture and organic forms. Our customers understand the intrinsic quality of each piece and the efforts behind it. They find in Vendorafa the expression of their personal tastes. We are also very much positioned as a true “Made in Italy” brand, with all the qualitative and creative demands that the term evokes. CIJTC: How is the philosophy of your brand expressed through design? A.U.: The foundations of Vendorafa’s philosophy—tradition, savoir-faire, innovation, experimentation—are translated into a product that reflects these concepts. The primary forms of our jewellery—organic patterns, floral forms, and classic geometry—represent traditional savoir-faire combined with innovative experimentation. They are the physical expressions of our research and creativity as well as our determination to explore new techniques and new horizons in the art of fine jewellery making and goldsmithing. 04


CIJTC: What does Vendorafa offer to retailers? A.U.: There are many advantages for a retailer. First is the excellence of the product and how it is created. Each piece is not made haphazardly. It is the result of a planned design, where the shape, feasibility, and details are carefully defined, along with the materials used and the industrial techniques needed to produce a high-quality and reproducible product, followed by strict quality control—all in the tradition of fine wearable and hand-finished Italian jewellery. Second is customer service. We are committed to a high level of service and support for our retail partners whether on the Via Montenapoleone in Milan, Bond Street in London, Place Vendôme in Paris, Ginza in Tokyo, Fifth Avenue in New York, or many Main Streets around the world. In the USA, Vendorafa is distributed exclusively by Opera Jewels’ Massimo Zerbini. This partnership with our retailers includes active, versatile, and exclusive cooperation in the creative process to meet the needs of their customers, as well as short delivery times. I might add that our dedication to quality and efficient production combined with our professionalism allows Vendorafa to not only distribute its own jewellery to our retail network, but also to plan and create exclusive lines for large international brands, with these exports totalling about 80 percent of the company’s production. Third, in order to better enhance the buying experience for their customers, we offer training sessions for the sales staff about the jewellery, the values of the brand, and the creative process that results in each piece of Vendorafa fine jewellery. It also involves educating the client on what the “Made in Italy” label entails in terms of quality, design, and craftsmanship. CIJTC: What serves as inspiration for the designs? A.U.: Creating a piece of jewellery is, above all else, interpreting the material. The main inspirations are drawn from Nature, Art, and Architecture, sometimes individually, sometimes all together to create unique geometries and volumes. Architecture, in its own way, has a unique place in Vendorafa’s designs. We start from the assumption that architecture has been created for human beings, to meet their needs and interests through avant-garde shapes. We interpret this in our jewellery. For example, our “Etnica” line is composed of interlocking hammered gold circles and precious wood elements that create soft and unexpected volumes, while “Twist” features the brand’s characteristic hammered matte gold with an intertwined double band—in contrasting brilliant and textured finishes—twisting on the concave surface, set with diamonds. The “Sirena” collection creates innovative new shapes with intersecting surfaces plus diamond-set rounded and irregular edges. In “Pentagramma,” Nature’s pulsing energy inspires wavy lines enhanced by hammered gold balls and brown diamond accents. The graceful lines of “Onda” recall the long rolling waves of a calm ocean. Nature again serves as inspiration for “Dune” where curved lines and contrasting polished edges are reminiscent of gently sloping sand dunes. And, as infinite as the universe, the interplay of sensual lines offers movement and volume to the “Infinito” collection, while the “Nodo” collection evokes energy with its interwoven curves and sinuous hammered knots. All our jewellery pieces have their own personality and specific design elements, but they are still all identifiable as Vendorafa by their organic forms and textured surfaces. (www.vendorafa.it, www.operajewels.com) 43 05


A New Life To Jewelry

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Vianna Brasil – Chic and Sophisticated Inspired by the colours, culture, art, and icons of Brazil, the jewellery designs of Vianna evoke the very essence of the brand’s identity. And, it is an identity that has spread far beyond Brazil to capture the attention of women around the world. By Cynthia Unninayar “We see our jewellery as pieces of art, and art is about beauty, social movements, and behaviour. We are proud of bringing the Brazilian way of life to women around the world, proud of telling our history, and connecting women to our culture through our collections,” says Karla Antunes, the brand’s creative and marketing director. The art in Vianna’s 2012 jewellery evokes the Brazilian attitude and way of life through colour, while drawing on the nation’s past to infuse a modern touch. Clearly, the brand has matured, while continuing to evolve into an even more dynamic and global entity. “With the recent opening of an office in Miami, we are looking to expand our relationship with North American clients, improve contact, and strengthen the brand,” adds Ricardo Vianna, CEO and president. Along with Western and Eastern Europe, Russia, and the Middle East, North America is one of the major markets for Vianna. A few comments from its retailers provide insight into why the Brazilian brand is so popular in this region. Birks & Mayors’ Eva Hartling, director of public relations and events, says: “Our clients are very discerning when it comes to the quality and design of the collections we carry. When the Vianna Collection was introduced in 2010, we received positive feedback from our clients, who were drawn to the stylish designs and exceptional quality of the Brazilian gems used to create the pieces. Coloured gemstones continue to gain in popularity and this makes the Vianna Collection an extremely coveted choice.” Colour and design are also important for DUFRY/Colombian Emeralds International. Joy Prenda, merchandise director, explains: “The Vianna Brasil style is chic, sexy, and sophisticated. Artistic designs and luxurious colours combine to bring a sense of excitement every time you wear a piece of Vianna jewellery.” Susan Fotos, owner of Higashi Pearls and Fine Jewelry, adds even more. “Our customers love the jewellery from Brazil with its original and feminine designs made with colourful gemstones. The designs from Vianna are particularly interesting because they use a variety of colours, often shades of colours and unique cuts, in a single piece. The designs are wearable for every day use, which makes them perfect for work. But, add a pair of long dramatic earrings and they become perfect for evening.” So, who is the “typical” Vianna customer? “The clients of Vianna are primarily professional women who purchase their own jewellery,” adds Fotos, who admits to owning several pieces herself. “Having said that, however, we do have men who buy it as a gift. They appreciate the fact that it is different and distinctive, while being chic and sophisticated.” (www.viannabrasil.com) 08


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PROFILE

GEMFIELDS – A FORCE FOR CHANGE When it comes to coloured gemstones, 80 percent of mining is done by small-scale and artisanal operations. Many of these use primitive methods, have poor environmental records, undesirable working conditions, and inconsistent supply. One company has set out to change this. By Cynthia Unninayar

Gemfields’ Kagem mine in Zambia.

Workers in the mine with rough emeralds.

An exceptional 6,225-carat rough emerald found at the Kagem mine, named “Insofu” (“elephant” in the vernacular of the Bemba people indigenous to this region), in honour of the World Land Trust’s Elephant Corridor Project, in which Gemfields participated.

Following the vision of Ian Harebottle, CEO, Gemfields is a force for change in the gemstone industry.

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At the crossroads of state-of-the-art exploration, mining, and marketing, London-based Gemfields is arguably the world’s largest coloured gemstone producer, and an authority on coloured stones. The most important gem in its portfolio is the vivid green emerald from the Kagem mine in Zambia, in which the government owns 25 percent. From mine to market, these emeralds offer a case study in ethical mining and environmental responsibility. Green in More Ways Than One When the company took over the mine in 2008, it found a scarred landscape dotted with old pits and waste dumps. But, in keeping with its high standards for environmental “greenness,” Gemfields took action. “The term ‘green’ has many different meanings,” says Ian Harebottle, Gemfields’ CEO. “Clearly, the environment is essential to our success, so it would be completely irresponsible to neglect the land that is giving us so much. But,

it is more than just preservation. It is also about redefining how mining companies build their businesses and how they give back to the surrounding communities.” As part of this redefinition, the company neutralized its carbon footprint by planting 300,000 trees on the dumps, filling the pits with water, and stocking them with fish for the local population. It also gives back in other ways, including building schools and clinics and forming an agricultural assistance program to help local farmers increase crop yields. Organized Mining With the use of modern, efficient, and organized mining techniques, combined with ongoing employee training, Gemfields has turned the situation around at Kagem, which now provides a continuous supply of the coveted green gemstones. “When we started,” explains Harebottle, “our production cost was 90 cents (US) a carat and we sold the gems for 50 cents a carat. Today, it costs us 40


Facetted square & rectangular emeralds from Gemfields’ Kagem mine.

One of the Gemfields sponsored schools in Zambia.

cents a carat and we sell the stones for $4 a carat.” Production in 2010-11 amounted to 33 million carats, which represents 20 percent of global supply. To get its stones to gem cutters in a regular manner, Gemfields holds quarterly auctions in India, Singapore, London, and Johannesburg. In addition to its mining activities, it recently opened a trading office in London to distribute Zambian emeralds in the UK, USA, and Europe. The gems sold by this office will be sourced from the company’s partners (those who have acquired lots at its rough auctions), thus ensuring a transparent route from mine to market. When it sources from other suppliers, however, Gemfields requires that the stones be ethically mined. All along the gem pipeline, Gemfields is quite serious in its demands for transparency, certification, and full disclosure of treatments, which form the basis of its brand promise to consumers, retailers, and others in the trade. Branching out from emeralds, Gemfields is now mining amethyst at the Kariba mine, the world’s largest single source of the purple gemstone, of which the Zambian government holds a 50-percent share. It also recently purchased a 75 percent stake in the Montepuez ruby deposit in northern Mozambique, which Gemfields believes has the potential to become the world’s largest ruby mine.

Marketing and Promotion “Today, the value of a luxury good has very little to do with its rarity, and everything to do with the position it holds in the mind of the consumer,” muses Harebottle. “Very often people think that coloured gems are linked with diamonds. The difference is that the diamond market is saturated and diamonds have been around for a long time, and are well marketed and well promoted. Coloured gems, on the other hand, are much more ancient, and they have been neglected for a long time and have not been well marketed.” Neglected up to now, that is. One of the pillars of Gemfields’ strategy is to increase awareness and appreciation of all coloured gems, including of course its prized Zambian emeralds. One of its recent activities was the partnership with the World Land Trust (WLT) and the Wildlife Trust of India (WTI) to raise funds to secure corridors for Indian elephants to move freely between protected areas, since their habitats are rapidly declining. Designers created pieces of fine emerald jewellery that were sold at auction to help the plight of these grand creatures. Another innovative project was at the 2010 Academy Awards when Gemfields opted for a partnership that would go beyond fashion. Two bangles with Zambian emeralds, worn by Morgan Freeman and Lori McCreary, were later

A farmer holds up a cabbage grown under a Gemfields agriculture assistance program.

To help elephants in India travel between protected areas, Gemfields partnered with the World Land Trust and the Wildlife Trust of India to raise funds to secure safe corridors. Shown here is a statue by Sabine Roemer using Gemfields emeralds that was auctioned for the project.

auctioned to benefit the Nelson Mandela Foundation. The response to Gemfields’ gems, activities, and philosophy, from both the industry and consumers, has been positive. “The record sales from our most recent auction attest to the quality and consistency of our emeralds,” adds Harebottle. “Our team and industry partners will continue to work even harder to deliver on our vision of producing a reliable and conflict-free emerald supply from a responsible source.” He goes on to conclude, “We live in exciting times, so we are positive—cautiously positive because the world is going into uncharted water. It is a new era.” And Gemfields is certainly a force for change in this new era. (www.gemfields.co.uk) 11


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Pamela Huizenga – Celebrating the Beauty of Imperfection Catching up with Pamela between trunk shows, we talked to this talented artist about her designs and the gemstones she loves. By Cynthia Unninayar CIJ Trends & Colours: Your pieces aren’t the usual type of jewellery designs… Pamela Huizenga: By usual, if you mean perfectly shaped and symmetrical, you’re right. My jewellery celebrates the beauty of the imperfections found in gemstones. It is often an imperfection that makes each stone unique. I also seek balance in terms of colours, textures, and shapes, sort of like a mosaic. CIJTC: Many of your pieces evoke a mosaic of colour. What is your favourite coloured gemstone? PH: I love all stones—precious, semi-precious, fossils, minerals, rocks… I started collecting them as a child. My parents used to take me to the gem mines, where they would buy a big bucket of rocks, containing crystals of amethyst, quartz, and sapphire. It was like finding a hidden treasure. When I was 16, I trained as a gem cutter so I could make my own designs. My favourite gem, my passion—you could almost call it an obsession—is opal. CIJTC: How did this “obsession” start? PH: I fell in love with the huge variety of colours and textures found in boulder opals from Australia. After cutting many kilos of these rough gems, I moved to Ethiopian opals. They are truly mysterious stones, requiring patience, a steady hand and a bit of luck. But the rewards are immense. It is a gem that is lit from within, a piece of the heavens hidden inside each stone. CIJTC: What is your design inspiration? PH: I listen to the stone. It tells me what I should do. I focus on its shape and colour, letting it guide my hand. I work with its imperfections, instead of against them. This is what makes my pieces unique and gives them character. I let them evolve into what they want to be, and set them in 22K or 18K gold or sterling silver. Most of my designs are one-of-a-kind, and range from simple elegant pieces to more “primitive” interpretations. CIJTC: What is the main market for your designs? PH: The brand is carried by independent jewellery stores and galleries from Florida to California. The final customer is a person who appreciates the intrinsic beauty of gemstones in all their forms, as well as artisanal craftsmanship. She is a person who wants something out of the ordinary, something that celebrates the beauty of gemstones. (www.pamelahuizenga.com) 12


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A pair of Reverse Fit earrings dating to 1997, still popular today.

Yael Sonia – Art in Motion The original Perpetual Motion necklace created in 1999 that started the series.

When you look at the jewellery of Yael Sonia, creator of the award-winning “Perpetual Motion” collection, with its swinging pendulums, rolling spheres, and spinning tops, it is immediately apparent that they are more like wearable art in motion. By Cynthia Unninayar

“Mother’s Love” Femininity pendant.

When most teenage girls were thinking about ways to celebrate their “Sweet 16” birthday, Yael was designing herself a special ring. “I have always been fascinated with jewellery,” she says, “but not just any jewellery. I love art and think of jewellery as a form of art.” Later, she studied design and goldsmithing, receiving her BFA in Metals and Jewelry. “I started out working only in metal, and the Femininity Collection was my first.”. “Whenever I get time to sit down at the bench and create one of these pieces, they fly out the door.” With the graceful Yael Sonia, looking through one lines and forged hollow design, it is easy to understand why. of her award-winning Perpetual Motion pendants Growing up in Brazil—and now sharing her time between New York, Paris, and São Paulo—it was inevitable that the young designer would eventually turn to more colourful creations. “I love colour, and appreciate the beautiful gems of Brazil. In fact, it is where I feel most creative. I spend several months a year at my studio and showroom in São Paulo, fine-tuning my designs and producing the collection.” She works with local stonecutters to obtain the impressive one-of-a-kind gemstones that her skilful goldsmiths turn into her very limited Perpetual Motion collections. Encouragement for Yael came early in her career. Her very first Perpetual Motion piece was a finalist in the first Tahitian Pearl Trophy, and subsequent models went on to win many other awards. When not in Brazil, Yael lives in New York where in 2007—only ten years after her professional debut—she opened her own boutique at 922 Madison Avenue. An early pair of The store has rows of colourful candy-like gemstones and visually interesting toyFemininity earrings inspired pieces, moving and swinging with an energy all their own. “A client who (1998), still much in demand today. walks into the store immediately sees that everything moves, rattles, and comes alive like in a child’s universe,” she adds. The untraditional pieces by Yael Sonia have a certain museum-like quality about them. For this reason, perhaps, they find an enthusiastic clientele in galleries and with private dealers in the USA, Brazil, and France. Béatrice Trelcat, director of the Galerie Elsa Vanier in Paris, specializing in contemporary design, explains, “We have been showing Yael’s work for five years now. At first, we had to educate our clientele to her range of colours, the cut of her gemstones, and her unconventional settings. It takes time to fully appreciate the details of these intricately designed pieces.” What’s coming in 2012? Yael will continue limited pieces in the Femininity Collection and Deco lines, while of course adding to her popular Perpetual Motion lines, all This year’s diamond and gold “Spinning Top” pendant. evoking art in motion. (www.yaelsonia.com) 14


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Cutting experts analyze rough emeralds to understand the best cutting path. (Photo: ©Serge Sibert)

A Muzo miner finds a 168-carat rough emerald. (Photo: ©Serge Sibert) Muzo region and Rio Minero River. (Photo: Serge Sibert) ©

Muzo International – Beyond Green The largest rough emerald in the world. The costliest per carat emerald ever sold. The most saturated green colour with exceptional clarity and brilliance—all from a company with high safety and environmental standards. By Diana S. Zimmerman Nestled within the rolling eastern foothills of the Andes Mountains in Colombia are the legendary emerald mines of Muzo. For over five centuries, this extraordinary repository has provided the world with spectacular stones, and today is no exception. In November 2009, Muzo International, a branch of Texma Group, was awarded the exclusive rights to operate the mines. But this is no ordinary company. When it comes to Colombian emerald mining, Muzo International gives “green” a completely new definition. Not only does the company mine the stones, but they also cut and polish every gem—all with safety protocols and environmental initiatives that are, for the most part, unheard of in the gemstone industry. 16

A Culture of Care In just two years, Muzo International has achieved the standards set by Colombian legislation for occupational safety, workers rights, and employee health—and not just for its own workers; the entire region is benefiting. Reforestation, improved sanitary conditions, and public health campaigns with a focus on the control of tropical diseases (such as yellow fever, dengue, and leishmaniasis) through vaccination and increased awareness of risk factors, are all part of Muzo International’s charter. The company’s goal is to “create an organizational culture committed to sustainable mining development, which can promote personal and business growth in a responsible framework for the individual, our community, and our

This 12.01-carat blue-green Muzo emerald ring sold for $1,440,219 recently at Sotheby’s, shattering the world record for carat price ($119,000 per carat). (Photo: Sotheby’s)

environment.” Its commitment to create a “culture of care” is only one of the reasons why Muzo International is considered to be “a company by which all others are compared.” Another reason, of course, is its beautiful emeralds.


Exceptional Emeralds Twelve years ago, the Fura Emerald—a 15,000-carat (2.270 kg) rough stone that is five times larger than the more famous Unguentarium in the Vienna Imperial Treasury—was discovered at Muzo. This past June, the Fura was put on display for the first time at the Minergemas fair in Bogota, Colombia. Muzo is also where the most valuable rough emerald in the world was found, based on its outstanding colour and brightness—the 2,000-carat Tena. Tena

exceptional Muzo emerald sold at Christies last year for $835,682. This 9.27-carat square-cut stone is highly transparent and free of any type of enhancement. The report from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, certifying its Colombian origin stated, “Natural emeralds from Colombia of this size, colour, and purity represent a great rarity and the described gemstone is thus a very exceptional treasure.” Many other experts, including Sotheby’s, consider Muzo emeralds to be “the most desirable in the world.” The high quality

This official recognition establishes a solid framework for a systematic approach of all internal processes in order to satisfy the expectations of its customers. The main points of the quality policy are: applying best practices, innovation, and technology; ensuring efficient process control; providing safe and reliable conditions in developing new activities; compliance with legal and contractual regulations in the performance of activities; constantly improving the quality of services; identifying opportunities; and implementing appropriate actions.

Automated cutting produces calibrated stones ideal for jewellery setting. (Photo: ©Serge Sibert)

Poster at BaselWorld depicting Muzo International’s philosophy.

was named for a mythical queen from that region whose tears were said to have created the emeralds. Its estimated worth far exceeds that of the emerald brooch once owned by Russian Empress Catherine the Great that sold at auction in 2010 for $1,650,500. But size isn’t everything at Muzo. Coming in a variety of sizes, its emeralds are prized for their quality, clarity, and ideal colour, which ranges from saturated green to a slightly bluish-green hue. One such stone, a magnificent 12.01-carat blue-green emerald, shattered the world record for carat price at the recent Sotheby’s auction in Geneva garnering $1,440,219 for an unheard of $119,000 per carat. Another

Children at the school founded by Muzo International. (Photo: ©Serge Sibert)

emeralds from the Muzo mine, which represent a large proportion of the gems extracted every year, come with their own certificate issued by a highly respected independent gemmological laboratory, authenticating that the stones are indeed from Muzo. The company’s zero resin/ polymer policy ensures that only nonpermanent oils are used to treat the stones, if necessary. No detrimental fillers are ever used. Best Practices Obviously proud of its facetted gems, Muzo International also takes pride in the fact that its cutting workshops in Bogota have obtained ISO 9001 certification.

Top Model Eugenia Silva wears a Chopard necklace with Muzo emeralds at the Chopard Muzo Green Party at Cannes, 2010. (Photo: ©Artins/Stefano Artini)

By controlling every aspect of emerald production, from the mines through the expert cutting and polishing, as well as the marketing of the finished stones to designers throughout the world, Muzo International not only maintains absolute control over the quality of its stones, but is also improving the quality of life for an entire region. In every way, Muzo International is a company that is going far beyond green. (www.muzoemerald.com) 15.54-ct emerald cut cut from a 96.51-ct rough stone in Muzo International’s Bogota workshops, certified epoxy resin free. 17


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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we present the top ten trends for jewellery design for 2012 as well as the top ten trends in fashion colour as forecast by the Pantone Color Institute® for Spring/Summer 2012. “Consumers look to spring for renewed energy, optimism, and the promise of a brighter day,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “They have learned how colour can help them alter a mood, while providing the vitality and enthusiasm that enables them to experiment with new looks and colour combinations.” By Cynthia Unninayar

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Marina B

Ella Moss using Pantone Cockatoo. This unusual hue adds a whimsical touch to the palette and will make a statement this spring.

COLOUR

In fashion, designers are inspired by diverse influences, offering a range of styles, from free and playful to light and breezy, from shiny metallics and sequins to serious and subdued, as well as contemporary classics. Colour is one of the strongest trends in jewellery, with shades ranging from subtle pastel hues to lively jewel tones, evoked by gemstones, enamel, ceramics, and coloured metals.

Masriera

Tresor

Adrienne Vittadini, using Pantone Tangerine Tango and Bellflower. This combination of colours gives an ultra-bold look this spring.

Opera Omnia

Luca Carati Amsterdam Sauer

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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Manu & Cris Gaspari


Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour Miiori Lady G by Gumuchian Aaron Basha

2 Commelin

Maya Jewels

Assael

NATURE

Nature in all her forms is the best showcase for colour and design in both fashion and jewellery. The most popular natural trends for 2012 in jewellery are a variety of butterflies, flowers, birds, frogs, fish, snakes, spiders, dragonflies, and scorpions, in both realistic and stylized forms. Gemtique

Mathon Paris

Georland

Barbara Tfank, using Pantone Sodalite Blue. This classic maritime hue brings order and calmness to mind. Like an anchor to a ship, this dependable shade works with every color in the palette. Oscar Heyman

Zydo

Roberto Bravo Levian

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour

Seven Joias

Peter Storm

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Bergio

OPENWORK

One of the characteristics of fine design is innovation. As the prices of gold and other precious metals climb still upward, designers find interesting ways to create affordable luxury. Traditional methods combine with technology to offer inventive and beautiful solutions for airy and openwork and even filigree designs, with or wihout gemstones, to create an impressive look.

Pamela Froman

Daniel Espinosa

Ramon

Damiani

Crivelli

Adam by Adam Lippes using Pantone Sweet Lilac. Evoking the fresh scents of summer, this delicate pinkish lilac adds a touch of romance to any wardrobe. Mary Esses

Antonio Bernardo

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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The Fifth Season


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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour Ivanka Trump

MVee

4

Marco Bicego

Garavelli

HOOPING IT UP

One of the most perennial types of jewellery is the hoop earring. No longer simply in plain metal and no longer merely round, hoops have taken on a multitude of styles and forms. Clothed in diamonds or gemstones, crafted in various metals, and coming in a variety of stylized forms, hoops will continue to be a favourite in 2012, with a design to please everyone and every budget.

Vianna

Katrina Kelly Carla Amorim

Brumani

Valerie MacCarthy

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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Cynthia Steffe by Shaun Kearney using Pantone Starfish. Starfish, a perfect warm summer neutral, complement all colors featured in this season’s top ten.


Empress Jade Collection

Rina Limor for J.R. Gold Designs Centurion Jewelry Show Salon 538 800.999.0583 www.rinalimor.com


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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour

Jewelmer Adam & Martucci

Magerit

5

ON THE CUFF

A staple on the runways this season, cuffs can be found in a wide variety of styles, textures, and sizes. Coming in plain metal or highly embellished with the dazzle of diamonds and gemstones, cuffs range from the simple to the sophisticated, and continue to be an important part of any fashionista’s wardrobe.

Vendorafa

Bapalal Keshavlal

Pamela Roland using Pantone Driftwood. Driftwood is an adaptable blend of beige and gray with a slightly weathered feel.

Zorab

Metalsmith Sterling

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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TR E N D S Edward Mirell (Titanium/Silver)

Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour Opera Omnia (Enamel) Rodney Rayner (Ruthenium Silver) Bizzotto (Enamel)

Brosway (Steel/Gold)

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Utopia (Hi-Tech ceramic)

ALTERNATIVES

While the white metals of palladium and silver have joined the ranks of noble metals along with gold and platinum, there is a variety of non-traditional materials that also participate in the realm of today’s jewellery. Among them are titanium, wood, ceramics, cobalt, steel, brass, and enamel as well as a number of treatments and platings, including the black finish so prized in contemporary jewellery today.

Leila Tai (Plique Ă jour)

Siera (Enamel/Gold)

Raffaella Mannelli (Ebony/Gold)

Bill Blass using Pantone Solar Power. Providing a jolt of energy, Solar Power radiates warmth and cheer. Rebecca (Goldplated Bronze)

Jolie B Ray (Brass/Oxidized Silver)

Scott Kay (SK Cobalt)

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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phone +39/0131.951.387 • info@manuecrisgaspari.it • www.manuecrisgaspari.it


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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour La Reina Pamela Huizenga

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ROUGH & READY

A trend that began several years ago, mostly with artisanal jewellers, has now become more mainstream with unique and original creations embodying rough or unusual gemstones in their “natural� state or thinly sliced, but embellished with gold or silver as well as other stones. Examples include pieces made with rough, uncut, and sliced diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds, as well as other gemstones and small geodes or other minerals.

Pearce Deisign

Coomi

Todd Reed

Yvel

Nina Runsdorf

Nahm using Pantone Margarita. A piquant yellow-green, it lifts spirits with its refreshing and stimulating glow.

Yael Sonia

Minah Joias Natasha Lima

Rahaminov Diamonds

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour

Madstone Kerri Halpern

MVee

DeGrisogono Pippo Perez

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Montegrappa

ON THE EDGE

Skulls are the embodiment of the edgy trend. Whether in pendants, rings, cufflinks, earrings, bracelets, or brooches, the fascination with skulls, both fanciful and human, as a motif in jewellery is very prevalent in 2010. From prestigious pieces set with precious gemstones and diamonds to a range of simpler silver creations, skulls are a must-have jewellery and fashion item for many consumers today. Even some pens have taken on an edgy decor.

Rhonda Faber Green

Alessio Boschi

VPL by Victoria Bartlett using Pantone Tangerine Tango. An enticing juicy orange, this is a vivacious and appealing refresher to enliven anyone’s outlook this spring.

Jasmine Alexander

Judith Ripka Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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Pochai Jewellery Swarovski Gem Visions


BRAZILFRESHFINEJEWELLERY Visit our companies in the main international fairs: JUNWEX St. Petersburg Baselworld New Russian Style

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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour Syna

Damiani A&Furst

9

THE TASSEL

Tassels are gaining in popularity and can be seen in all types of earrings and pendants for 2012. They dazzle in small gemstone beads, and can be made of rough cut or facetted gemstones. The most popular gems are rubies, emeralds, spinels, onyx, rough diamonds, and various types of coloured quartz. Tassels are also delightful in seed pearls and a multitude of metallic chains.

Rafael Cennamo using Pantone Bellflower. A distinct ornamental purple, fanciful Bellflower exudes uniqueness and creativity.

NF Joias

Goshwara

Victor Mayer Rina Limor

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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Bastian Inverun


profile

Rodney Rayner – Stylish & Sophisticated Stylish, chic, sophisticated… These are but a few words that describe the jewellery of Rodney Rayner. Like his famous reverse R logo, this is a man who views business from a dual perspective— cutting-edge sophisticated designs and a strong brand identity. By Diana S. Zimmerman For more than 30 years, Rodney Rayner has been creating captivating jewellery that has earned the brand a loyal following. And his new collections will be no exception. Being launched this March at BaselWorld (this is Rayner’s 27th year exhibiting at the prestigious European show), the 2012 collection is empowered with colour, character, and fascination. Each piece, as they always have been, will be strictly limited in number, thus ensuring exclusivity for those fortunate enough to possess one. “The upcoming collection,” Rayner explains, “will be bold, colourful, and organic, with a strong emphasis on pendants. Our Cascade and London Rocks lines were a tremendous success last year. Customers loved the fact that the surfaces were encrusted with stones in a variety of colours and sizes, which made the pieces stand out. We are continuing this momentum in 2012, but will also incorporate centre stones, harking back to some of the more historic Rayner collections. They will definitely be chic and unique.” From the magnificent mixtures of colour to the sensual cutaways revealing rivers of diamonds, Rayner’s finely crafted designs are, as he states, “Created with passion, to be worn with individuality and style.” And create them with passion he does—combined with a good dose of creativity and innovation. “Our jewellery is not made for a mass audience,” he muses, “but rather for the sophisticated consumer, for the woman who is looking for something out of the ordinary, something different and individual.” Being “out of the ordinary” is surely what has garnered the brand ten consecutive nominations and three consecutive wins at the prestigious annual Couture Awards in Las Vegas. Rodney and his wife Karin, who is also his business partner, have been exhibiting at the Couture show in the United States for the past twelve years, where the brand has become immediately recognized for its colourful, chic, and cutting-edge designs. But success in the American market is only part of the story. The brand is also strong in Japan, since 1988, where Rayner supports the market with regular visits. “We believe in partnering with our customers, which entails close contact and excellent customer service,” he adds. Reasons undoubtedly why the Rodney Rayner brand is also strong in markets such as Switzerland, Russia, and Eastern Europe, among others. “We are very proud of our export achievements and this strategy has helped our business go from strength to strength.” Just as he has always done, Rodney Rayner will continue his dual perspective, focusing on cutting edge designs and a strong brand identity. (www.rodneyrayner.com) 33


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Top Ten Trends in Jewellery and Fashion Colour Joias Griebler

Charming by Ti Sento

Forum Romano

Costantini

Peter Som using Pantone Cabaret. A sensual and intense rosy-red, Cabaret is an excellent choice for summer clothing and cosmetics.

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Art’Lev

PERSONALIZED

The penchant for individual beads, charms, lockets, and other forms of personalized jewellery continues unabated in 2012. Individual taste demands adornment that reflects lifestyle, beliefs, and emotions or that commemorates certain special moments in a person’s life. The small charms and beads may come in gold, silver, steel, ceramic, glass, gemstones, wood, enamel, or many other materials, all in the name of personalized jewellery.

Bliss

Pasquale Bruni

Amore & Baci

Leaderline

Byzance

Tamga Jewellery

Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.

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Art’Orafo


profile

In 2011, Roberto Coin launches a new challenge.

The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin is a line expressing the elegance, which is typically represented by the tradition and philosophy of Roberto Coin, and which is perfectly suited for today’s metropolitan dynamism. It is the most informal expression of the world of Roberto Coin, with a charming casual-chic touch added to the Italian jewels made at The Fifth Season factory in Vicenza. Style and manufacturing techniques remain the same to create a new, fresh and modern variety of jewellery creations, whilst some renowned designs are reproduced in the preciousness of multi-coloured silver.

This is the perfect collection for women who are looking for quality jewellery for the different seasons of their life, when the idea of a piece of jewellery is connected to an attitude more than to an ideal concept. As usual, much attention is paid to the choice of precious and natural elements, thus guaranteeing the respect of the group’s ethical principles. Since 1996, a small ruby is hidden inside each piece of jewellery created by Roberto Coin. Legend says that this marvellous gem, which is considered eternal, has the power to promote a long, healthy and happy life. This very same wish is now expressed over by The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin.

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US and Caribbean


G E M S TO N E S

FIRST MINES TO MARKET COLOURED GEMSTONE CONFERENCE, INDIA Given the importance of coloured gemstones in fine jewellery, the Gems & Jewellery Promotion Council of India (GJEPC) recently launched its first Mines to Market event for coloured gems. It brought together miners, retailers, marketers, and designers from across the globe to discuss many of the aspects of the gem and jewellery trade. By Cynthia Unninayar With its long history of coloured gemstone cutting and manufacturing, the Indian city of Jaipur was the perfect venue for the firstever Mines to Market conference devoted to coloured gems. Organized by the GJEPC, the two-day event was attended by more than 350 people who came to hear discussions by some twenty speakers on various topics relating to the gemstone pipeline. India’s Gem and Jewellery Industry “Colour is intrinsic to the culture of India and just a glance around is sufficient to prove how imbued, with a myriad of hues, are the lives of the people of this vast and diverse nation,” stated Rajiv Jain, GJEPC chairman, in his opening address. “More importantly, this country has had a long and deep-rooted connection to coloured gemstones throughout the ages. From the earliest known jewellery found in India, to the world-renowned collections of the maharajahs, to modern times, the jewellery made and worn here has always been resplendent with the shades of many coloured gemstones.” The coloured stones processed in India encompass virtually the entire gemstone and jewellery pipeline. The sector employs close to one million people, with 100,000 in Jaipur alone. During 2010-11, India exported coloured gems worth US$315.22 million, an increase of 9.92 percent over 2009-2010, with 20 percent of exports going to the USA and Europe. While exports of coloured gems are relatively minor compared to India’s total exports of US$43 billion, the GJEPC feels there is potential for strong growth, especially in emerging markets, and that exports will increase significantly over the next three years. Jain also stated that India is “perhaps the only country in the world, which is a complete centre in the gems and jewellery field, with 38

The Taj Mahal, built by Shah Jahan starting in 1632 as a mausoleum for his third wife, perfectly illustrates the skills of gemstone inlay and carving dating back hundreds of years. Insert shows a portion of the gemstone-inlaid walls.

a strong manufacturing base for diamonds, coloured stones, and jewellery, in both plain metal and studded.” The nation is also one of the world’s fastest developing marketplaces with a rising middle class. In his speech, Saurabh Chandra, Additional Secretary and Financial Adviser, Ministry of Commerce and Industry, Government of India, discussed measures to make India the global trading hub for gems and diamonds along the lines of Belgium, Israel, and Thailand. The government is thus drafting and implementing a comprehensive action plan to support new marketing endeavours. He also stated that import duties on both rough and polished gems have been abolished, which has thus resulted in increased trade of all types of gemstones.

Topics of Discussion In the keynote address, Alberto Milani of the Italian jewellery brand, Buccellati, explained that the main competition for jewellery is not other brands so much as it is other luxury products and experiences, such as vacations and hotel stays. Purchasing a piece of jewellery should be a luxury experience, not just a luxury product. He stated that the high and low ends of the market are still doing fine, while the middle is being crushed. Moderated by Yianni Melas, the conference covered a wide range of topics, from the world’s gem resources and mining, to ethical and sustainability issues, to jewellery manufacturing and branding.


The famed Amer fort, whose origins date back to the 10th century, is a main tourist destination in Jaipur, India’s main city for coloured gemstones and jewellery.

Among the many speakers (a complete list and summary of each speaker is available at www.gjepcindia.com), Richard Hughes (Sino Resources Mining) talked about the hope that coloured stone mining offers people in terms of livelihoods. He also stressed the importance of creating an emotional link to coloured gems in a way that De Beers has done for diamonds. Edward Boehm (RareSource) also felt that gems are largely about people, and marketing them is not just about romancing the stone but also means providing accurate technical information to the consumer. There are 47 primary coloured gemstone producing nations in the world, and 80 percent of gems come from Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining operations (ASMs), with 90 percent of ASMs located in developing and emerging nations. Boehm also stressed the importance of ethical mining and fair trade. John and Mark Saul (Swala Gem Traders) provided insight into the geology and gemstones of East Africa, most of which are traded in Arusha, stating that 90 percent of mining is ASM, with 10 percent by large corporations such as TanzaniteOne, Gemfields, and Gemfinder. They also stressed the importance of creating partnerships with local miners to benefit their communities. Ethical considerations in relation to workers’ conditions and mining activities were also discussed by Robert Weldon, GIA, who used the example of an ametrine mine in Bolivia. Organized corporate mining was detailed by Ian Harebottle (CEO, Gemfields) in an impassioned speech on the need for change in the gemstone industry.

GJEPC chairman Rajiv Jain gives the welcoming address at India’s first ever Mines-to-Market conference on coloured gemstones. On the dais are Ian Harebottle, Saurabh Chandra, Sanjay Kothari, and Rajkumar Nagpal.

Ian Harebottle gives a passionate speech about the need for change in the gemstone industry.

Saurabh Chandra explains measures by the government to make India the global trading hub for gemstones.

Harebottle also talked about Gemfields’ emerald and ruby activities in Africa, as well as how the company invests in technology and mechanization, which lowers production costs. Harebottle went on to stress the importance of giving back to local communities, and what Gemsfields is doing in this regard.

Gavin Pierce of Richland Resources (formerly TanzaniteOne) recounted the tanzanite story and his company’s use of modern methods and mechanization. He also summarized the company’s community involvement, indicating how organized mining can provide greater returns for both the com39


G E M STO N E S

Edward Boehm, RareSource, talks about the world’s gem resources and the importance of sustainability.

pany and local governments as compared to the fragmented ASMs, which use primitive methods, and have poor environmental records and working conditions. He added that TanzaniteOne produces 2.4 million carats of tanzanite per year, and that there is still an estimated 50 million carats in the ground, or enough for the next 20 years. Observations on upcoming markets for gemstones were provided by George Shen (California Gemological Institute), speaking about opportunities to be had in China’s gems and jewellery market today, and Lixin Yang (Gemological Association of China), who spoke on the development of China’s jewellery industry. Wong Chi Ming (Magfrey Jewelry) discussed the importance of branding in China, stating that the “Chinese like things that give a nod to the past while being modern and forward thinking. As their wealth increases, fine jewellery is the perfect complement to their new position in the world.” Robert Weldon (GIA) describes ethical mining conducted by an ametrine mine in Bolivia.

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Conference delegates, left to right: Manoj Dhandia, Steve Bennett (behind), Glenn Lehrer, John Saul, Warren Boyd, Mrs. John Saul, and Dinesh Malpani.

Andrew Lucas, GIA, discusses gem treatments and the importance of disclosure. At right, seated, is conference moderator, Yianni Melas.

Gem treatments were discussed by a number of speakers: Richard Hughes (Gem & Jewelry Institute of Thailand) on corundum enhancements; Helmut Zimmermann, (Herotron E-Beam Service), on irradiation of gemstones; and Andrew Lucas (GIA) on treatments and disclosure. Other topics dealt with technical production and lapidary methods, including speakers Eddie Bell (Rio Grande) on the challenges and opportunities in producing high quality jewellery in India, and Glenn Lehrer who showed images of his gem-cutting artistry. The conference ended with issues relating to media and marketing opportunities discussed by Hamilton South (HL Group) on storytelling for consumers, and Candy

Pratts Price of Vogue.com, who spoke on using media to reach consumers. Steve Bennett of GemsTV gave a lively talk on ethical issues and how he romances gemstones on television. In his concluding remarks, Rajiv Jain stated that the two-day conference was an eyeopener for the coloured gemstone industry in Jaipur, and that local players showed immense enthusiasm. “We need to take this forward from here and organize a similar coloured gemstone Mines to Market conference in Thailand and China. This has to be a continuous process since we need to grow as an industry worldwide, and this is the first step towards the revival of the industry.” (www.gjepcindia.com)


foglie d’acanto bangles collection

S I N C E

E V E R

the fil rouge of signs

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G E M S TO N E S

GEMS AND JEWELLERY IN JAIPUR The Mines to Market Conference offered the opportunity to meet several Indian companies specializing in coloured gemstones and jewellery. Below, are three examples, all based in Jaipur, that represent a large brand, a medium-size wholesale manufacturer, and an independent designer. Very different in structure, they all share the same passion for coloured gems, and they all create private label pieces for third parties. By Cynthia Unninayar Amrapali One of India’s largest jewellery companies. Amrapali is known for its modern interpretations of classic Indian jewellery, with creations that evoke India’s rich jewellery heritage, one that is embodied in its name, “Amrapali,” a famous and beautiful courtesan who lived during the time of Buddha. The company was founded in 1978 by Rajesh Ajmera and Rajiv Arora, two young graduates with a passion for ancient history and a vision for re-introducing long forgotten Indian jewellery designs and manufacturing techniques to the world. From a simple beginning, Amrapali now employs more than 1000 skilled artisans, who have created pieces worn by such notables as the Queen of Bhutan and the Maharani of the Jaipur Royal Family, plus a roster of movie stars and celebrities. In addition to its own pieces, in silver and gold, Amrapali has a thriving private label production. The brand has 30 same-name boutiques in India, as well as in London and New York. Its jewellery is also sold through retailers around the world. (www.amrapalijewels.com)

Dhandia Exports Located in the heart of Jaipur’s Johari Bazaar, the marble entranceway of Dhandia Exports opens to a square courtyard revealing three floors, complete with gem cutting and jewellery manufacturing facilities and offices. The firm’s director, Manoj Dhandia, is the fifth generation in the gem industry, but in today’s age of specialization, he realized that the best way to expand his business was by providing tailored solutions to his customers. Thus, new designs, in both gold and silver, are added on a regular basis, providing maximum choice. Dhandia specializes in emeralds, but also deals in other fine gemstones, including jewellery made with such unusual gems as fluorite. Eighty percent of production are faceted and carved gemstones, with jewellery accounting for the remaining 20 percent. In addition to a good market in India, where they wholesale to retailers, Dhandia primarily exports to retailers and private label parties in Europe and Asia. Products are positioned in the mid-range, and vintage collections are especially popular. (www.dhandia.com)

Ankit Malpani The origins of this designer brand can be traced back 200 years to the glory days of Jaipur when an esteemed group of jewellers (Malpani, Surana, Mukeem, and Rawat) were invited by the Maharaja of Jaipur to form part of the newly established capital city of Rajasthan. A man of refined taste, the Maharaja recognized the talents and skills of the Delhi-based Malpani family and included them in his search for the best artisans. Fast-forwarding to 1975, the family company adopted the name Gems Export Center, and has since operated as a manufacturer, wholesaler, exporter, and private label manufacturer of fine gems and jewellery. Today, Ankit Malpani represents the sixth generation of this legacy and has branched out on his own to create a fine jewellery designer brand called Ankit Malpani. Drawing on his rich heritage, Ankit specializes in using colourful gemstones, accented with diamonds, set in gold, many of which are one-ofa-kind creations, as well as delightful nature-inspired pieces. (www.AnkitMalpani.com) 42


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G E M S TO N E S

IN SEARCH OF AMETHYST AND CITRINE

Amethyst and diamond earrings by Bruner.

Among the most popular gems used in today’s “affordable luxury” jewellery designs are amethyst and citrine. When the Brazilian Gems and Jewellery Trade Association (IBGM) recently offered me the chance to join the ICA Mine Tour in Brazil, I welcomed the opportunity to learn more about these and other gems in this gemstone-rich nation. This article recounts the first part of that tour, where a group of 38 people from 13 countries travelled to southern Brazil in search of amethyst and citrine.

While amethyst is also mined in Africa and Russia, large concentrations are found in South America, principally in Brazil and neighbouring Uruguay, where the crystals occur in geodes within volcanic rock. Steeped in legends and myths, the gem’s name is derived from the Greek “amethystos” which can be translated as “not intoxicated.” This supposed antidote against drunkenness is probably why it was used to make wine goblets. Also thought to be a symbol of piety, the purple stone was used in church ornaments during the Middle Ages, and some Catholic bishops still wear amethyst rings today. Among the gem’s other properties, according to Leonardo Da Vinci, was its ability to dispel evil thoughts and speed up intelligence. Today, amethyst is the birthstone for the Pisces zodiac sign. The lovely colour of the purple stone is also steeped in mythology. Again according to Greek legend, Dionysus—the god of wine—was rebuffed by a maiden named Amethystos, who prayed to the gods to remain chaste. Her prayers were finally answered by the goddess Artemis who turned her into a statue of crystalline white quartz. Touched by her desire to remain pure, Dionysus poured wine over the statue as an offering, thus dying the quartz purple. This mythological interpretation is quite interesting since amethyst is indeed a variety of quartz (SiO2). But, perhaps a more scientific explanation of the purple colour is the presence of iron 44

Amethyst, prasiolite, and rutilated quartz ring by Vianna.

By Cynthia Unninayar

The participants in the ICA Brazil Mine Tour pose for a group photo in front of the entrance to an amethyst mine.

impurities in the crystal lattice of the quartz. The shades of purple range from pale, sometimes called “Rose de France,” to beautiful deep violet tones. En Route to Rio Grande Do Sul The southern Brazilian state of Rio Grande Do Sul is home to some of the world’s largest amethyst deposits. Our journey started in Chapecó, a major agro-industrial city in the southern state of Santa Catarina, where we boarded a bus that would take us through subtropical pine forests and vegetation, punctuated by vast fields of soybeans (the nation is the world’s largest producer of soybeans) to finally reach the state of Rio Grande Do Sul, and the remarkable little town of Ametista Do Sul. Mining in this area began in the mid1960s by groups of artisanal miners called garimperos. Today, however,

since the government allocates mining licenses in a more restrictive and orderly fashion, most amethyst mining is done by cooperatives. The mines are composed of underground tunnels, blasted out of volcanic rock, where the amethyst is always found in geodes of various sizes. In other parts of Brazil, however, the gem can be found as crystals in secondary deposits. This gem-rich region extends to Uruguay, where high quality gems are also found. According to our expert guide, Marcelo Bernardes, gems export manager for the Brazilian gems and jewellery company, Manoel Bernardes, some ninety percent of Uruguayan production is purchased by Brazilian gem dealers. Hundreds of mines dot the area, and the one chosen for our visit was unusual since it also serves as a large storage


Above: Inside the amethyst mine, large rock pillars regularly support the galleries and tunnels. Broken geodes can be seen on the ceiling and sides. Below middle: One of the galleries serves as a wine storage area. (Photos: Pavel Sokolov)

cellar for wine bottles. (It would make both Dionysus and Amethystos proud!) Since this region is also good for growing grapes, and the mine’s owner has a winery, what better place to store the bottles than in the constant cool temperature of an underground mine. As we walked through the mine, Marcelo pointed out the thick pillars of volcanic rock that were spaced every two to three meters in order to support the tunnels and chambers. In this particular mine, the geodes are found in slightly tilted or horizontal layers running back about 300 meters to the opposite side of the mountain. When the miners find a geode, they drill a small hole to ascertain its shape and quality. They then carefully and patiently chisel the geode out of the rock, a process that can take hours or even days. The highlight of our trip to this area was the picturesque small town of Ametista Do Sul and its main church, St. Gabriel. Rather ordinary looking on the outside, the interior of the small church was a sight to behold. From floor to ceiling, deep violet amethyst crystals covered the walls. The altar and baptismal fonts were made of large geodes of amethyst and citrine. Religious statues and other decorations were framed by other tall geodes. It was a spectacular tribute to the purple gem.

A miner chisels a geode out of the volcanic rock in the mine. (Photo: Pavel Sokolov)

Amethyst crystals cover the walls in St. Gabriel Church. Above: A baptismal font made from a large geode. (Photos: Hanco Zwaan)

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G E M S TO N E S Geodes – From Mine to Market Once the geodes leave the mine, they are taken to a facility such as H&L Minerals. A family owned company with sixty employees, H&L (from the owner’s name, Helio Lodi) deals in a variety of minerals and gems, including agate, various types of quartz (clear, pink, smoky) as well as amethyst, citrine, and prasiolite, plus a range of collector’s pieces. Lodi explained that the company sources from its own mines as well as from third parties. He kindly offered to let the group visit the various steps in the preparation of geodes and gems in the company’s large facility. After the geodes arrive at the warehouse, they are sorted. Then, because they can be easily broken, they are reinforced with rebar. Once cemented into place, the steel rods allow the stones to be cut in half using a large diamond-tipped saw. The next step is polishing where the cut surfaces are given a mirror finish. To hide the rebar and provide a more finished appearance, the geodes then pass to the next station where cement is placed all over their rough sides. Lastly, the cemented surface is stippled with a moist brush to give the final textured look. Since some geodes are broken either at the mine or in transport, they are taken to the “clinic” to be “healed” of holes or other deformities that can decrease their value. With no shortage of crystals to use in repairing the defective geodes, the workers place small pieces of amethyst into the holes like a three-dimensional puzzle and then glue them into place.

Above: When the geodes arrive at the H&L warehouse, they are reinforced with rebar to avoid breaking. Marcelo Bernardes points to the chalk line, showing where the geode will be sawed. Below: A large geode has been cut in half with a diamond-tipped saw. (Photos: Cynthia Unninayar)

Geodes are repaired in the “clinic.”(Photo: Hanco Zwaan)

After sawing, the geodes are polished. (Photo: Cynthia Unninayar) 46

Stippling gives the cement coating a textured look. (Photo: Cynthia Unninayar)


Geodes come in impressive sizes, much taller than Hanco Zwaan in the middle. (Photo: Cynthia Unninayar)

After cementing and stippling, the sides and bottom of the geodes are painted black. They then undergo a final washing. On the right are cemented geodes waiting to be painted. (Photo: Cynthia Unninayar)

The final preparation stage is painting. At H&L Minerals, the stippled areas of the geodes are painted a matt black. When dry, the pieces are washed with soap and water with a high-pressure hose. When dry, they are ready for sale. The warehouse contained rows upon rows of geodes of all sizes waiting to be either sold or shipped. When asked about the main market for these Brazilian stones, Fernando Lodi, Helio’s son, replied that nearly seventy percent goes to China, with the rest going mainly to the USA and Europe. Leaving the geode area, we ventured into a neighbouring storeroom full of barrels of agates in all sizes and natural colours waiting to be processed.

At the rear of this large room were vats where some of the agates are dyed— with purple, red, and blue the colours of choice. In other rooms, sorters examined piles of amethyst, citrine, and other quartz crystals. Photo of amethyst crystals taken through a small hole in a large geode. (Photo: Cynthia Unninayar)

Pavel Sokolov (centre) examines samples of citrine with two H&L employees. (Photo: Cynthia Unninayar)

Pieces of geodes are used in art objects and carvings by Amsterdam Sauer. (Photo: Cynthia Unninayar) Rows upon rows of agates, various quartzes, collector’s minerals, and other materials are waiting to be sold at the H&L Minerals warehouse. (Photo: Pavel Sokolov) 47


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Hot Rocks – Creating Citrine Citrine is also a major gemstone coming from this area and derives its name from the Latin “citrina” meaning “yellow.” While natural citrine exists, Marcelo explained that the gem is generally pale yellow to brownish. The deep yellow and orange shades of citrine that are common in geodes and jewellery are generally obtained by heating amethyst. The bicolour purple and yellow ametrine also occurs naturally but is again generally obtained from heating amethyst. (As an aside, one mine in Bolivia produces natural deep colours of ametrine.) In the colour transformation process, special furnaces are used to heat individual or small groups of amethyst crystals. The temperatures are carefully increased in ten-degree increments to around 450°C to 500°C until the desired colour is obtained. If the samples are overheated, they will turn colourless. For large geodes, the process is different. They are placed on a ceramic bed, with a bonfire below, surrounded by red-hot coals at carefully controlled temperatures and times to obtain the deep rich orange colour. In addition to large amethyst treatment facilities, there are also many “backyard” artisanal workshops where quartz and amethyst are treated. We were able to visit one of these small operations and see the little ovens used to heat the samples. Here, workers also chipped away at quartz material to remove inclusions and thus get clear sellable crystals. 48

Small ovens are used in “artisanal” operations to convert amethyst to citrine. Insert: Crystals of amethyst before heating, and citrine after heating. (Photo: Hanco Zwaan)

Also at this small facility were large crystals and broken geodes of the green-coloured quartz, prasiolite. This gemstone is obtained by using gamma rays to irradiate the amethyst crystals, a process that is conducted in special laboratories in São Paulo.

Prasiolite crystals obtaining by irradiating amethyst with gamma rays. (Photo: Pavel Sokolov)

At an artisanal operation, a worker chips away at quartz crystals to get clear sellable pieces. (Photo: Pavel Sokolov)


The incredible Iguaçu Falls between Brazil and Argentina. (Photo: Pavel Sokolov) Amethyst and citrine are highly appreciated by jewellery designers around the world, such as these earrings by notable Italian brand, Opera Omnia.

Soledade and Iguaçu Falls Next on our itinerary was the small town of Soledade, a regional centre for process processing geodes, amethyst, citrine, and agates. By chance, we arrived during the annual Exposol, an international gem, jewellery, and mineral show with around 100 exhibitors. (The gem fair is part of a larger exhibition, which also included large farm equip-ment, clothes, shoes, animals, etc.) After a warm welcome by the fair’s general director and a nice lunch, we were able to see many remarkable specimens, including exquisite sliced agates and rose quartz measuring one to two meters in size, plus all sorts of geodes, collectors’ minerals, and even jewellery. Most of the jewellery was silver, set with gemstones in large bold designs, although smaller agate and drusy pendants were in abundance at inexpensive prices. Among the jewellery designers at the fair was Marlene Lodi of the H&L Minerals family, who specializes in bold silver pieces and agate creations.

At the Exposal fair, the author poses with two of the many remarkable specimens that are found in southern Brazil.

Agate necklace by Marlene Lodi, here modeling her silver designs at Exposal in Soledade.

The last portion of our tour in the southern part of Brazil found the group in the small city of Foz do Iguaçu. The nearby Iguaçu Falls is clearly one of Brazil’s most famous tourist destinations. These breathtaking waterfalls are located where the Iguaçu River tumbles over the edge of the Paraná Plateau, 23 kilometres upriver from the Iguaçu’s confluence with the Paraná River. More than 275 separate waterfalls (60m to 82m high) are divided between Brazil (one-third) and Argentina (two-thirds). After visiting the Brazilian side, we enjoyed a thrilling and very wet boat ride under one of the cataracts. The next day, we were off to Argentina to experience a completely difdif ferent view of the many cascades, especially the incredible Devil’s Throat Falls (82m high, 150m wide, and 700m long). Learning about the area’s geology and expe experiencing the incredible Iguaçu Falls provided an unforgettable conclusion to our trip to Brazil in search of amethyst and citrine. 49


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PURE GOLD

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What could be more luxurious than combining the glitter of 18K gold with the glow of the rare and exquisite golden Philippine South Sea pearl... Renowned brand Jewelmer draws on the best of both worlds to create elegant and extraordinary jewellery that is pure gold. (jewelmer.com)

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1. Ring from the Rosone collection. 2. Earrings from the Rivière des Perles collection. 3. Necklace in the Rosone collection. 4. Ring from the Rivière des Perles collection. 5. Necklace in the Rivière des Perles collection. 6. Ring from the Rosone collection. 7. Ring from the Anastasia collection. 8. Ring from the Margherita collection. 9. Outfit by Abed Mahfouz S/S 2012 (photo: AltaRomAltaModa). (Jewellery images courtesy of Jewelmer.)


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OPULENT ORANGE From outrageous to opulent, orange is one of the major fashion colours for 2012, in both bold orangy-red colours and its more mellow tones. In jewellery, orange is represented by a ZLGHYDULHW\RIJHPVWRQHVLQFOXGLQJÂżUHRSDO imperial topaz, garnet, sapphire, citrine, amber, chalcedony, beryl, jade, and carnelian, as well as enamel and other materials.

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1. Pink gold, gemstone, and diamond ring by Mattioli (Italy). 2. Imperial topaz, gold, and diamond earrings by Brumani (Brazil). 3. Steel, cord, and silicone charm pendant by Haribo (France). 4. Citrine, gold, and diamond pendant by Al Coro (Germany). 5 Citrine and gold ring by Odara (Brazil). 6. Citrine, diamond, and gold ring by Forum Romano (Brazil). 7. Gold and gemstone jewellery by Bagues (Spain). 8. Gold, diamond and gemstone pendant by Magerit (Spain). 9. Outfit by Venexiana S/S 2012 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).


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10. Fire opal, diamond, and gold pendant by Mark Schneider (USA). 11. Jade and diamond earrings by David Lin Jades (USA). 12. Sapphire, gold, and diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 13. Fire opal, gold, diamond, and gemstone ring by Forever Jewels (Singapore). 14. Gold, gemstone, and diamond ring by MVee/Aspire (Hong Kong). 15. Carved citrine, gold, and diamond ring by Vianna (Brazil). 16. Citrine, diamond, gold, bronze, and steel earrings by Rebecca (Italy). 17. Gold, diamond, and gemstone ring by Luca Carati (Italy). 18. Watch by Pierre Lannier (France). 19. Outfit by Angel Schlesser S/S 2012 (Photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).

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BOLDLY BLUE Teal and aqua continue to be popular jewellery and fashion colours for S/S 2012, with gems such as aquamarine, turquoise, beryl, and others. But the darker and royal blues are still a favourite of designers around the world, who use stones such as sapphire, lapis lazuli, topaz, opal, and others. as well as bold blue enamel.

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1. Gold, diamond, and gemstone earrings by Joanna Angelett (United Kingdom). 2. Chrysacolla drusy, zircon, and gold pendant by Pearce Design (USA). 3. Aquamarine and gold pendant by Yael Sonia (Brazil/USA). 4. Turquoise and silver pendant by Daniel Espinosa (Mexico). 5. Aquamarine and gold earrings by Christian Tse (USA). 6. Multi-gemstone, diamond, and gold brooch by Ankit Malpani (India). 7. Aquamarine and gold ring by Mathon Paris (France). 8. Topaz and gold ring by Jane Taylor (USA). 9. Multi-gemstone, gold, and diamond ring by Piaget (Switzerland). 10. Outfit by Carlos Miele S/S 2012 (Photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).


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21 20 11. Gold, topaz, diamond, and sapphire pendant by Carelle (USA). 12. Sapphire, diamond, and gold earrings by Crivelli (Italy). 13. Gemstone and gold pendant by Gavello (Italy). 14. Sapphire, diamond, and gold earring by Duang Kaew Jewelry (Thailand). 15. Lapis lazuli, diamond, and gold earrings by Pamela Froman (USA). 16. Octea-Sport watch by Swarovski (Austria). 17. Gold bracelet set with topaz and other gems by Anzie (USA). 18. Gold, diamond, and enamel brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 19. Sapphire, diamond, and gold ring by Faraone (Italy). 20. Gold and gemstone clasp by Jorg Heinz (Germany). 21. Sapphire, diamond, ruby, and blackened gold ring by Garaude Paris (France). 21. Outfit by Roberto Torretta S/S 2012 (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).

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Pink is one of the hot colours for the warm 2012 season, in its bold vibrant tones as well as in its more subtle pastel shades. Evoking all these warm tones are gemstones such as sapphire, ruby, kunzite, rhodolite, rubellite, morganite, moonstone, watermelon tourmaline, Imperial topaz, rose quartz, spinel, rhodochrosite, and garnet.

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1. Star ruby and diamond ring by Elke Berr (Switzerland). 2. Sapphire and diamond earring by Casato (Italy). 3. Watermelon tourmaline and diamond necklace by Tresor (USA). 4. Sapphire and diamond earring by Gumuchian (USA). 5. Pink quartz and steel earrings by Luxenter (Spain). 6. Sapphire and diamond ring by Antonini (Italy). 7. Sapphire and diamond ring by Mousson (Russia). 8. Sapphire and garnet earrings by Heloisa Fitzgerald (USA). 9. Facetted 12.93-ct sapphire by Sant (Thailand). 10. Outfit by Betsey Johnson S/S 2012 (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week).


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18 19 11. Sapphire and diamond earring by Diamrusa (Thailand). 12. Sapphire and diamond pendant by Preziose (Brazil). 13. Diamond and gemstone pendant and earrings by TTF Studio (China). 14. Sapphire and diamond ring by Lorenz Baumer (France). 15. Sapphire and diamond earrings by Yvel (Israel). 16. Gemstone and diamond rings by Charlotte Lynggard/Ole Lynggard (Denmark). 17. Enamel, gold, and diamond charm pendant by Aaron Basha (USA). 18. Sapphire and diamond ring by OMI Gems (USA). 19. Tourmaline and diamond ring by Vancox (Brazil). 20. Outfit by Kina Fernandes S/S 2012 (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).

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A calming colour, evoking nature, growth, and renewal, green takes on many shades, from the lighter lime tones to the darker forest green hues. In gemstones, green ranges from the yellowish-green peridot to the grassier shades of tourmaline, tsavorite, jade, garnet, and emerald, with many other gems in between.

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1. Peridot and diamond earrings by Antonini (Italy). 2. Jade and diamond earrings by Rina Limor (USA). 3. Enamel and gold pendant by Commelin (France). 4. Peridot and diamond pendant by Mathon Paris (France). 5. Peridot and gold ring by Anne Sportun (Canada). 6. Gemstone, diamond, and gold ring by Jewellery Theatre (Russia). 7. Peridot and quartz earrings by Belack (USA). 8. Tsavorite, rubellite, and diamond ring by Zorab (Thailand). 9. Peridot ring by Gurhan (USA). 10. Emerald and diamond ring by Carol Kauffmann (Brazil). 11. Facetted peridot (7ct) by Constantin Wild (Germany). 12. Outfit by Betsy Johnson S/S 2012 (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).


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13. Emerald (Gemfields), gemstone, and diamond earrings by Ana de Costa (Britain). 14. Gemstone earrings by Vhernier (Italy). 15. Emerald and diamond pendant by Simon G (USA). 16. Emerald and diamond necklace by Crivelli (Italy). 17. Emerald and diamond ring by Arrigoni (Brazil). 18. Facetted emerald by Belmont (Brazil). 19. Jade and diamond pendant by David Lin Jades (USA). 20. Gemstone and silver pin by Annaloucah (Britain). 21. Gemstone earrings by Jane Taylor (USA). 22. Gemstone and diamond ring by JFA Designs (USA). 23. Prasiolite and gold ring by A&Furst (USA/Italy). 24. Carved gemstone and diamond brooch by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 25. Emerald (Gemfields) and diamond earring by Dominic Jones (Britain). 26. Facetted tsavorite (20.03ct) by Piat (France). 27. Outfit by Angel Schlesser S/S 2012 (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).

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IN LIVING COLOUR

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7 1. Carved oregon sunstone, pearl, and topaz pendant by Glenn Lehrer (USA). 2. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond earrings by Goldesign (Brazil). 3. Multi-coloured gemstone “Mosaico� pendant by Tresor (USA). 4. Multi-coloured gemstone “Jaipur� ring by Marco Bicego (Italy). 5. Multi-coloured sapphire and pearl earrings by JJ Jewels Milano (Italy). 6. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Brumani (Brazil). 7. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond “Fantasia� watch by Peter Tanisman (Switzerland). 8. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 9. Facetted watermelon tourmaline by JS Gems (Brazil). 10. Outfit by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada S/S 2012 (photo: Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week).


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11. Multi-coloured gemstone bracelet by Vianna (Brazil). 12. Multi-coloured sapphire and diamond earrings by Eclat Jewels (USA). 13. Multi-coloured gemstone bracelet by Christian Tse (USA). 14. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond bracelet by Chopard (Switzerland). 15. Multi-coloured sapphire and diamond brooch by Lili Jewelry (Israel). 16. “PureStyle Tutti” watch in anodized aluminium by Erick J. Exertier (Switzerland). 17. Multi-coloured gemstone ring by Mousson (Russia). 18. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Opera Omnia (Italy). 19. Multi-coloured gemstone and diamond ring by Roberto Bravo (Turkey). 20. Bi-colour tourmaline cat’s eye by Tavares Gems (Brazil). 21. Outfit by Custo Barcelona S/S 2012 (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).

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THE JEWELLERY OF ART Gustavo Rosa, one of Brazil’s most important artists, recently partnered with award-winning Brazilian designer, Cris Porto, to create a line of original DQGFRORXUIXO¿QHMHZHOOHU\EDVHG on the artist’s unique works. On these pages are a few pieces from ³*XVWDYR5RVDE\&ULV3RUWR´ 4 3

1. “Opera” painting and ring in 18K white gold, diamonds, and enamel. 2. “Watermelon” painting and ring in 18K white gold, diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, and tsavorites. 3. “Cat” painting and ring in 18K white gold, diamonds, and enamel. 4. “Ballerina” painting and ring in 18K yellow gold, diamonds, rock crystal, and enamel.

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5. “Fishbone” painting and earrings in 18K white gold, ruby, white and black diamonds. 6. “Madam São Paulo” painting and ring in 18K white gold, black and white diamonds, and enamel. 7. “Paloma” earrings in white gold, ruby, and diamonds, based on dove in “Helicopter” painting, on background. 8. “Sail” cufflinks from original painting. 9. “Waiting for a Parade” painting with flower ring evoking pot of flowers. 10. “Happiness” painting and ring in 18K gold, diamonds, and enamel.

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marketplace

idar-oberstein – intergem Unusually fair skies and gorgeous autumn weather brought crowds to the opening day of the 27th annual INTERGEM show, held in the state-of-the-art Messe Idar-Oberstein. Stands were crowded and merchants seemed happy. By closing day, October 4, about 3,700 attendees from around the world had come to see the products from 200 exhibitors. Sales were reported to be about the same as last year. Ring by Jutta Munsteiner

Boulder Opal rough from Queensland at Schlangenotto Opals.

Manfred Wild of Emil Becker with his “Giant Wheel.”

Officials at opening ceremonies, from left: Kai-Uwe Hille, Managing Director; Bruno Zimmer, Mayor; Roger Lewentz, Minister of the Interior for the State of Rhineland Palatinate; and Jochen Mueller, President of the Diamond and Gemstone Bourse in Idar-Oberstein.

By Karen Nuckols Talk in 2011 has been about the emerging Chinese and Indian markets for diamonds, gemstones, and jewellery. Not surprising, then, was a contingent from China, coming for the first time. About 20 percent of buyers were from the USA, European countries other than Germany, and even Bermuda. Dr. Konrad Henn of the Idar-Oberstein Trade Fair Organization stated, “We have seen a considerable increase in the quality of the registered trade fair visitors,” adding that purchases were planned and deliberate for coloured gemstones, diamonds, objets d’art and jewellery. Nicole Ripp from Groh & Ripp confirmed the demand for coloured stones: “Stones of top quality and in the upper price range were especially sought after.” Buyers were seeking unique cuts, top stones in spectacular colours as well as creatively designed jewellery. Manfred Wild, the renowned gem cutter from Emil Becker of Kirschweiler, Germany, presented his “Big Wheel,” a bejewelled 22-pound Ferris wheel, which took three years to build. Made of 18K gold with more than 4,000 single parts, it included a cashier’s box in a big octagonal shaped 234.44-ct faceted citrine. The passenger seats were made of 20 faceted stones of various types. To complete its realistic appearance, the “Big Wheel” turned to music. Wild refers to INTERGEM as the “smallest but finest gem fair in the world,” confirming that his gemstones sold well at the fair, but noted that there were fewer Americans than in past years. Sir Gabrielle Tolkowsky, the brilliant diamond cutter from Antwerp, spoke to a standing-room-only crowd on the “WOW factor” of gems and jewellery, declaring that although this is a global society, gemstones and jewellery are totally personal choices, that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. He urged older people in the business to encourage the creativity of the younger generation and to embrace their fashion sense rather than to squelch it. INTERGEM officials also believe in encouraging newer, sometimes untraditional designers. Each year, the “Young Designer” section hosts a number of up and coming artists. Local gemmological institutions and professional jewellery schools are also present. Fair officials announced before the close that about 80 percent of this year’s exhibitors planned to return to INTERGEM 2012, to be held October 5 to 8.


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PROFILE

TRADE FAIRS Third Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair to be held January 29 – 31, 2012

Created in 2010 by an initiative of the Antwerp Diamond Bourse, the first fair proved to be an immediate success. The following year, the Diamond Club joined the fair, bringing the number of exhibitors to sixty. The third edition will take place from January 29 to 31, 2012 and promises to be more scintillating than ever. The Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair is an exceptional event within its field and is quite unlike any other exhibition. There is only one product on show—cut diamonds. It is probably the world’s largest exhibition of cut stones. Whatever the desired colours, shapes, purities, and sizes, the fair is capable of meeting any demand, since the selection is amazing. This dazzling event, however, is still of a size to be quite visitor-friendly, conducted over 1,000 square meters in the two adjoining rooms of the Diamond Bourse and the Club. Devoted to diamond trading for over a century, these temples inspire respect, which is no doubt magnified by the sparkle of the diamonds that have passed through these facilities over the years. The intermingling of connoisseurs and professionals alike makes for a pleasant and friendly atmosphere. Even regular visitors to Antwerp enjoy attending the fair, as everything is organized to facilitate the viewing and comparing of a large variety of stones. As benefits a city with such great tradition, Antwerp reserves a warm and prestigious welcome for its guests. One of the high points of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair will be the gala evening on January 29, which promises to be glittering, festive, and full of gourmet pleasures. It must be pointed out, also, that not just anyone can attend the summit of the diamond world’s elite. Entry is strictly by invitation only. These precious invitations have to be obtained directly from the organizers, either by recommendation from one of the exhibitors, or by registering on the website www.antwerpdiamondfair. com and being able to produce genuine references from the jewellery sector. For more information, please contact: info@antwerpdiamondfair.com 66


Sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre

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Exhibitors : 70 Antwerp diamond companies.

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Visitors : jeweler retailers, designers, manufacturers. By invitation only.

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spotlight

Centurion – the ultimate fine jewelry experienCe “We’re thrilled to begin our second decade,” says Centurion President Howard Hauben. “Our top notch exhibitors, memorable entertainment, savvy education and our reknown Centurion laidback atmosphere are great reasons for prestige retailers to start their year with us.” Here’s a quick glimpse of the amazing plans for the 2012 Show!

Centurion Education Highlights Centurion’s educational program features outstanding speakers and top retailers and experts from around the country. Held each morning before the Show, it’s the perfect way to begin your Centurion Day! 2012 highlights include:

Martin Rapaport

and Centurion late-night featuring recording artist Ryan Star; plus the “Exhibitors Visit the Retailers” Kick-Off Reception; plus two nights of Texas Hold’Em tourneys; plus Centurion’s annual golf and tennis tourneys and so much more! We look forward to seeing you at Centurion 2012!

Joy Baldridge

Joe torre

Randy Zuckerberg

Centurion Entertainment Centurion Welcome Dinner featuring Phat Strad, sponsored by BRIDES; Centurion’s Got Talent, Late-Night event starring Delta Cappella; Gala Night entertainment featuring Boogie Knights, sponsored by VERANDA; Centurion 2012 Design Awards dinner featuring recording artist Jennie Devoe;

• “Ground Rules for Winners” Joe Torre • “Social Media from A to Z” Randi Zuckerberg • “How to Succeed in a Changing Environment” Martin Rapaport • “The Customer is Always Right” Joy Baldridge


Exhibitors A. Jaffe A. Link & Co. Aaron Basha Alex Sepkus Alfieri & St. John Alishan Alpina Alwand Vahan Antonini USA Arman Jewelry Armenta Arunashi Atara Jewelry Autore Beaudry International Bellarri Beny Sofer Beverley K Bliss Breuning Carelle Carlo Viani Chad Allison Charles Garnier Charles Krypell Inc. Cherie Dori Chimento Christopher Designs Clover Corp. Coast Diamond Coge Design Group Damiani Group De Hago De Young Collection, The

Dove’s Ducati Eclat Jewels Edward Mirell Eichhorn Eli Jewels Elizabeth & James Erica Courtney Etho-Lithos Ferrari FireMark®Princess Cut Diamond Fope Fragments, Inc. Frederic Sage Frédérique Constant Fruits Furrer-Jacot Gadi Designs Garavelli Aldo Srl Gem Platinum Gianfranco Fere GN Diamond Goldstein Diamonds Gregg Ruth & Co. Gumuchian Gurhan H. Weiss Co. Hasenfeld-Stein Hearts On Fire Henderson Collection By Lecil Honora Imagine Designs

ImagineBridal.com Jack Abraham Jack Kelége & Co. James Breski Jeff Cooper Jeffrey Daniels Jenny Perl for JMP Jewels By Star Jil Sander John Buechner Inc. John Galliano JR Gold Designs Judith Ripka Julius Klein Group Katie Decker KC Designs Kwiat Lazare Kaplan Intl Inc Le Vian Couture Leo Schachter Leslie Greene Links of London Lisa Nik Lithos MaeVona Makur / DeHago Marco Bicego Mark Patterson Martin Flyer Martin Margiela Marvin C° 1850 Maserati Mastoloni Mazza Co., The

Mc Teigue since 1895 MCR Gems Mémoire Michael B Michael Bondanza Michele Miiori Mimi So MK Diamonds & Jewelry Monica Rich Kosann Moritz Glik Nanis Natalie K Norman Covan Norman Silverman Oliva Oscar Heyman Paramount Gems Pe Jay Creations Penny Preville Peter Storm Philip Stein Piero Milano Precious Gem Resources Precision Set Rahaminov Diamonds, Inc. Ramon Raymond Hak Couture Rebecca Richard Krementz Gemstones Rina Limor for JR

Gold Designs Ritani Roberto Coin Roberto Coin Cento RonHami Royal Pearl Sakamoto Salvini Scott Kay Sethi Couture Sevan Biçakçi Siera Simon G Slane Spark Creations Spectore Corp. Stephen Webster Steven Kretchmer Suna Bros. Inc. Suzanne Kalan Tara Pearl Testi USA Todd Reed Toy Watch Uneek Vahan Verragio ViewPoint Vista International William Levine Fine Jewels Yvel

Sponsors/Services American Gem Society Applications Syst. Corp. ARMS BRIDES Chippenhook CIRCA Couture Diamond Council of America

ESDN Exhibit Mgmt Corp. Fire Polish Focus Business Management Inst. Forevermark Fruchtman Marketing GCAL Gemprint

GIA Gordon Co., The IJB/Wexler Insurance Jewelers for Children Jewelers Mutual Insurance Jewelers Security Alliance Jewelry Info. Center

Luxury Jewelers Network OPT Central Palladium Alliance Intl. Platinum Guild Intl USA Prestige Promenade Online Marketplace Rapaport Group RSP Media

Stuller Trac Tech Systems VERANDA VeriChannel

Centurion Jewelry By Invitation Only, LLC 1745 Merrick Avenue, Ste. 5, Merrick, NY 11566 USA Phone: 516-377-5909, 1-888-427-4697 Fax: 866-422-1108 (Continental USA Only) Fax: 413-683-1333 (International) Email: info@centurionjewelry.com www.centurionjewelry.com 69


MARKETPLACE

ITALIAN DESIGN AT ABOUT J AND VICENZAORO CHOICE The private by-invitation-only Italian showcase for high jewellery, “About J,” was held this past September one day before the opening of Vicenzaoro Choice. Gemstone, gold, and diamond flower brooch by new brand Alessio Boschi, launched at Vicenzaoro Choice. Amethyst, prasiolite, and diamond earrings by Garavelli.

Topaz and blackened gold ring by Roberto Demeglio.

Mother-of-pearl “Button” and silver earrings by Nanis.

By Cynthia Unninayar The 25 prestigious brands featured at the exclusive About J event confirmed the role of Italian jewellery as a leader in design, creativity, and quality manufacturing. Well known on the global jewellery stage, these brands enjoyed the attention of 135 highly qualified retailer guests coming from around the world, who viewed them in the very fitting venue of the Bisazza showroom, a remarkable gallery of contemporary art and mosaics. The About J formula is in line with the objectives expressed by the Fiera di Vicenza in keeping with its FDV 2011/2015 development project, which plans on integrating invitation-only, high-end events in order to gain market positioning and segmentation. Fair officials also indicated that in the near future, About J might evolve into a travelling event, showcasing Italian design in the most important international markets. Vicenzaoro Choice opened on September 10, with some 1400 exhibitors from Italy and 40 countries worldwide, and closed five days later after visits by more than 22,100 trade buyers, of which nearly 14,000 came for the first time. Despite the threats of a double dip recession, sovereign debt, and the overall gloomy economic situation—not to mention the high cost of raw materials—many brands reported fairly brisk business. Others were more circumspect in their comments, but the general mood seemed positive. Structural Innovations In addition to its role in housing the three Vicenzaoro fairs, the Fiera di Vicenza is taking an active role in promoting Italian jewellery around the world. The opening talk emphasized the show’s theme, “Innovation is in our hands. Stubbornly Italian,” and highlighted concrete steps “Stretch HD Silver” bracelets by Chimento, a patented stretch collection made of an innovative silver alloy that is whiter and stronger than traditional sterling.

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BASELWORLD THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 8 – 15, 2012

BASELWORLD.COM


marketplace Textured gold and diamond cuff by Vendorafa.

Gold and diamond “Ant” cuff by Roberto Coin.

Multi-colour gemstone ring by Palmiero.

Gold, pearl, and diamond ring by Talento Italiano.

72

being taken by the fair. These include the FDV 2011/2015 project, which focuses its efforts on themes related to creativity, research, and cross-cultural interaction, with a link between the exhibition—mainly dedicated to business—and cultural and training events. The fair also inaugurated the New Directions Hall, dedicated to Italian contemporary jewellery. Another innovation was the birth of the first Creative Research Centre for jewellery trends, devoted to identifying mega trends in fashion design, luxury, distribution channels, and consumer profiles. This initiative represents an important contribution to the evolution of Italian production and starting from 2012, it will be part of the exhibition format of the fair, in the hope of spurring the development of new products. The future of the Italian industry also depends on young new talent, thus another of the Fiera’s innovations was the creation of the “Next Jeneration Jewellery Talent Contest” for “under-30” designers in collaboration with Professor Alba Cappellieri, director of the Fashion Design degree course at the Milan Polytechnic and professor of Jewellery Design. A separate competition was also launched, the Andrea Palladio International Jewellery Awards, dedicated to the excellence of international jewellery in seven categories, presided over by renowned Master Jeweller Gianmaria Buccellati. Main Markets for Italian Jewellery Despite record prices, the demand for gold is growing, with jewellery accounting for 66 percent. According to a study by Polo Studi sull’Impresa, University of Verona, the global demand for gold for jewellery (by quantity) during the first quarter of 2011 increased 12.5 percent over the previous quarter and 5.5 percent over the first quarter of 2010. India and China were the leaders in purchasing gold for jewellery, representing 37 and 25.7 percent of world demand. In terms of Italian production, Switzerland and the UAE—intermediate stops rather than final product destinations—are the leading markets for Italian gold and jewellery. Third is the USA, where exports recovered somewhat with an increase of 11.5 percent during the first quarter of 2011. In contrast, the demand for gold for jewellery in the United States decreased from 6.2 percent at the end of 2010 to 3.7 percent during the first quarter of 2011. In value terms, 2010 recorded growth of 18.2 percent in Italian gold and jewellery exports, with a turnover of nearly € 6.6 billion. In the first four months of 2011, exports were again the driving force behind the sector recovery, with a 17.3 percent increase in value over the same period in 2010. As a reminder, however, the value numbers reflect price trends of the raw material, while in terms of quantity, exports increased overall at a slower pace—1.1 percent—over the same period of 2010. Yet, there is still reason for optimism. The next edition of the Fiera di Vicenza is January 14 to 19, 2012 when Vicenzaoro First will again showcase fine Italian design.


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MARKETPLACE

STYLE AND DESIGN AT BRAZIL’S FENINJER SHOW Among the world’s “emerging” nations, Brazil has undoubtedly one of the strongest domestic economies, with a US$2 trillion GDP. The world’s fifth largest nation by size, it is also well endowed with natural resources, including more than 100 gemstone types. No surprise then, that one of Brazil’s most colourful industries is jewellery. By Cynthia Unninayar Flowers and insects evoke The Nature of All Things in this pendant crafted by Goldesign in a variety of gemstones and gold.

Diamond and gold earrings by Bruner, evoking Illuminated.

Illuminated This trend refers to jewellery that encompasses pavé settings, used alone or in combination with larger gems and diamonds. Along with the sparkle of gems, the brilliance of metals plays a primary role in this category. Diamonds—white, black, and brown—and coloured sapphires combine with the more traditional rubies, sapphires, and emeralds to bring the fire of gemstones back to life to meet the expectations of an increasingly larger group of consumers as they experiment with classical elements in an original manner.

Butterfly brooch inspired by The Nature of All Things by Amsterdam Sauer in tourmalines, diamonds, and gold.

Diamond, sapphire, and gold ring by FR Hueb, evoking Illuminated. 74

Diamond and gold ring by Vancox, evoking Illuminated.

The eighth largest economy in the world, and sixth in purchasing power, Brazil is a key player in the global economy, and among its most elegant exports are jewellery and gemstones, valued at more than US$2.2 billion. Exports are expected to rise to US$3 billion in 2012—a number that is supported by the more than 23 percent increase already in the first four months of 2011. Hécliton Santini Henriques, president of the Brazilian Institute of Gems and Precious Metals (IBGM) explains, “Brazilian brands are being recognized worldwide for their unique design, sensibility, and charisma. Their jewellery is solidly positioned in the mid-range, between the very high-end and lower-cost classic jewellery.” The showcase for Brazilian jewellery is the bi-annual IBGM-sponsored Feninjer trade fair. This past August 3 to 6, the show highlighted its design directions for the year in the 2012 edition of its Jewelry Design Preview, available to local and international buyers. Serving as more than a trends guide, this preview “sets a strategic vision for the many different steps involved in designing jewellery and fashion jewellery items and is intended to strengthen the Brazilian identity,” says Henriques. “Its focus on the Brazilian identity resulted from the synergy between organizations representing Brazilian fashion sectors and segments. Its contents have been decoded through lectures and workshops. More than ten events are held to disseminate four trends/sources of inspiration for the upcoming collections of each jewellery complex in Brazil,” adds Regina Machado, design consultant for the publication.

The Nature of All Things This category includes the full repertoire of a natural life, which has become the muse for jewellery in 2012. The designs are figurative,


You see it everywhere… television, magazines, movies, billboards… models, celebrities, royalty—they’re all wearing colored gemstones and pearls. The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) is here to help you turn this opportunity into successful, sustainable business. At the AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, from January 31 to February 5, 2012, in the safe, secure comfort of the Tucson Convention Center, your experience will range from a “focus-and-find” assignment to an adventurous treasure hunt. You’ll network with US- and Canada-based professionals who adhere to a strict ethical code that supports quality, value and selection — sources you can trust! Plus, the seminars and workshops will educate and inspire! Success comes in many colors. Discover them all at the AGTA GemFair Tucson.


marketplace

Pendant in gold and diamonds by Guilherme Duque in the Fause Haten collection, inspired by the theme of Profile – Identify Yourself.

Colourful earrings in gemstones, gold, and diamonds by Manoel Bernardes, inspired by Brazilian Gemstones.

abstract, or more literal, representing the vast universe of Nature’s creations. Even geometric forms, within organically inspired pieces, express patterns evoked by natural shapes. Designs range from colourful gem-set pieces to highly polished metal interpretations of flowers, plants, birds, marine life, mammals, and insects, among others. Profile – Identify Yourself Self-expression is a strong influence in design and, in this category, charms and pendants tell stories and convey personal styles. In the large social network of the world, a woman’s preferences are revealed and her personality defined by jewellery. Pieces range from simple metal pieces to colourful complexities set with a variety of gemstones.

A variety of nature’s creations are reproduced in rings inspired by The Nature of All Things by Art’Orafo in gemstones, diamonds, and gold.

Brazilian Gemstones Colourful gemstones are the central characters in many jewellery creations. The incredible diversity of Brazilian coloured stones and their new cutting styles have earned them an undisputed place among the hottest new jewellery products. From simple quartz in all its glorious colours and forms to topaz, tourmaline, diamond, and emerald as well as a variety of lesser known varieties, Brazilian gemstones add zest and originality to today’s jewellery designs. In all categories, the pieces shown here are representative of the originality, creativity, and sophistication of Brazilian jewellery. All photos are courtesy of the individual designers and the IBGM.

Colourful earrings in gemstones, gold, and diamonds by Vianna, inspired by Brazilian Gemstones. Personalized charm bracelet in gold, crystal, and diamonds by Danielle Metais, representing the theme of Profile – Identify Yourself. 76


marketplace Club Brazil display at the Bri-Star booth, Ben Yep, left, Carlos Bere, right.

Hong Kong September Fair – Another Record Year The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair turned in yet another record year, both in visitor attendance and in the number of exhibitors. Not surprisingly, China provided the second largest group of visitors outside of Hong Kong, while India came in third. By Cynthia Unninayar

Silver and gemstone dragonfly brooch by Hong Kong brand HAZ Jewellery Design.

Diamond and gold butterfly brooches from Hong Kong brand Be’Vish.

Multi-gemstone necklace by China company Ze Yu Industries.

78

Fair officials had reason to be optimistic when the 29th edition of the fair closed on September 25, 2011. Attendance was up 16.3 percent at a record 51,500 trade professionals from 155 countries, who came to see the wares of some 3,450 exhibitors from 46 countries and regions, also a record. The number of overseas visitors (67 percent of the total) grew by 21.4 percent from last year. A sign of the current economic situation, it was not surprising that buyers from China were the single largest contingent (11,483, up 45 percent over last year) after Hong Kong (16,931, 33 percent of the total). Again, not surprising, India had the third largest group of buyers with 3,519 visitors, up 12 percent over the 2010 September fair, while the United States, despite the prolonged economic woes of that nation, was in fourth place with 2,423—up 29 percent from last year. “The strong visitor attendance from China and India was not surprising, considering that these two markets are the main drivers of jewellery demand today. What was even more encouraging was the growth in visitor attendance from the United States and Italy (up 29 and 42 percent, respectively),” said Celine Lau, director


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marketplace

Diamond and gold “Spider” earrings by new Hong Kong brand Vida.

Diamond and emerald pendant by Hong Kong brand Legrand Jewellery.

Sapphire, rubellite, and diamond earrings by Hong Kong brand Wallace Chan.

Gold and diamond “Trendy Rose” ring by Hong Kong brand Green G.

of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia, adding that there “was also notable growth in visitor numbers from Brazil, Israel, Iran, Russia, Taiwan, Turkey, and the United Arab Emirates. This tells us clearly that, apart from traditional and mainstream jewellery markets, there are emerging markets that show great potential to become a force of growth in the future.” Caution and Uncertainty This Fair was divided into two venues. Gemstone, diamond, and pearl companies exhibited at AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) from September 19 to 23, while finished jewellery was again at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from September 21 to 25. Each venue was divided by either product category or home country. At AWE, informal discussions with diamond dealers indicated a rather weak opening, with clear price resistance, with better results towards the end. With diamond prices falling, buyers apparently wanted to wait for more competitive prices or to have a clearer understanding of which way the market would go. In general, sellers were expecting a stronger showing because of the successes of the March and June shows, but still seemed more or less satisfied with this September’s results. High quality goods remained in demand, with price the main issue. The same sentiments were expressed by a number of coloured gemstone dealers. The two previous shows had been so successful that this show, even though “not bad” or “ok,” was not as strong as hoped. At the Convention Centre, jewellery was also divided by category, national origin, and type. In the main hall, business appeared to be fairly good, while exhibitors in the international areas indicated that the show was “slow” to “not too bad.” While some brands came with high hopes, others were more realistic in their assessment of the market and the demand for luxury jewellery. According to some brands, however, the rising Japanese market offered a nice surprise. And, as with the gemstone and diamond traders, jewellery manufacturers were looking primarily to the growing markets of China and India. In terms of jewellery, just about every colour and style could be found, from unique artisanal type pieces to very luxurious and sophisticated pieces in diamonds and gemstones, set in gold, silver, and platinum. This year, “Club Brazil” comprised of a group of Brazilian designers, debuted at the fair, following the collaboration of Club Brazil founder Carlos Bere and Bri-Star owner Ben Yep to explore options in the China market. Among the other launches this year was the Vida brand, a part of the Aspire group. Vida targets the younger consumer with trendy collections and attractive prices in a wide variety of designs. The next September Hong Kong fair will again be held from September 19 to 25, 2012. The most original booth at the fair was the “submarine” created by Forever Jewels, evoking the brand’s penchant for exploration. At the center of the picture are Larissa Tan, marketing and branding manager, right, and Marco Nocera, designer.

80

Gemstone, silver, and bold pendant by Hong Kong brand Gemtique.


marketplace

India’s IIJW and IIJS Two shows under the auspices of the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) were held in Mumbai last July 31 to August 8, creating a wealth of beauty in fashion, jewellery, and gemstones at the Indian International Jewellery Week (IIJW), July 31 to August 4, and the Indian International Jewellery Show (IIJS), August 4-8. By Karen Nuckols Traditional style jewellery by Amrapali on the runway at IIJW.

The luxurious Mumbai Grand Hyatt was the perfect venue for the IIJW. For the second year, it featured jewellery designers, brands, emerging designers, and students pursuing jewellery design courses, in three days of elegant runway shows and a grand finale evening. Bollywood star and fashion diva, Sonam Kapoor, was named Brand Ambassador of IIJW. She and others modelled the latest fashions for everyday wear as well as evening attire and wedding gowns, paired with jewellery, from some of India’s most colourful brands. A juried show, with hundreds of companies vying for entry, some 40 to 45 made the first cut, while only 32 were selected as exhibitors, according to Rajiv Jain, GJEPC chairman. Between 450 and 500 people—international buyers, celebrities, media, and others—attended each show by invitation from the design houses and the GJEPC. Over the last two years, the Council has built the show into a “design destination in jewellery,” explained Jain. “This is an opportunity for both established design houses and budding designers to showcase their latest designs.”

C Krishnian Chetty jewellery modelled on the runway at IIJW.

Jain added that the Council plans to take the show abroad within the next two years since there is no other venue that combines fashion and jewellery in a runway format. “IIJW has truly come across as the right platform to strengthen India’s global contribution in terms of jewellery design, innovation, and craftsmanship.” The final show was a spectacular runway extravaganza sponsored by Adorn, a year-old consumer magazine for the Indian market. The show honoured the late Japanese jewellery designer, Kazuo Ogawa, who passed away earlier this year. Ogawa was instrumental in bringing Indian jewellery designs to Japan as well as promoting pearl jewellery in India. Following the IIJW, the 28th annual Indian International Jewellery Show (IIJS) opened to a large crowd that came for the precious metal jewellery, loose gemstones, diamonds, costume and fashion jewellery, and equipment. Over 33,000 members of the trade attended the four-day event from India and abroad, which, with 800 exhibitors, is the largest trade fair for the jewellery industry in India. Approximately 1800 international buyers attended, including delegations from China, Russia, Poland, Hungary, Italy, Bangladesh, Nepal, Uzbekistan, Iran, Azerbaijan, UAE, and Thailand. The show opened with speeches by His Excellency Mr. Ahmed bin Sulayem, executive chairman, Dubai Multi Commodities Centre; and Mr. P. K. Chaudhery, special secretary, ministry of commerce and industry, India. Also participating

A model shows off jewellery by Gehna, ANGELA JOHNSON at IIJW.


Left to right: Sanjay Kothari, GJEPC vice chairman; Rajiv Jain GJEPC chairman; Haresh Jhaveri; Sonam Kapoor; and Subodh Kant Sahai, Minister of State for Tourism.

were GJEPC executives, Rajiv Jain, chairman; Sanjay Kothari, vice chairman; Haresh Zaveri, convener; and Sabyasachi Ray, executive director. The Indian government has identified the jewellery trade as a “thrust sector,” meaning that it wants the country to double exports in the next five years. To this end, the IIJS provides an ideal platform for Indian jewellery brands and others in the industry to expand their export markets. In other efforts, the Council is opening an office in Dubai and is planning to organize an Indo-Japan buyer-seller meeting. “The real challenge lies in sourcing raw materials, and we look forward to a collective effort by the entire industry to overcome all challenges,” stated Jain.

Earrings and necklaces by Tanishq on the runway at IIJW.

New at the 2011 event were national pavilions from Belgium, Israel, Thailand, UAE, Turkey, and a special international product gallery. The Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies, a non-profit company representing the Israeli diamond industry, has targeted India as a major market for Israeli diamonds. Seven Israeli manufacturers and exporters exhibited at the Israel Diamond Pavilion. Also present were 14 of Antwerp’s finest diamond companies. “This year there were more exhibitors in the show as opposed to previous years. The success of the show can be gauged by the fact that 97 percent of previous participants took part in this edition. Once again, the ‘India Show’ is Asia’s secondlargest jewellery show,” noted Jain.

Jewellery by Monica Kapur on the IIJW runway.

Exhibitors seemed generally pleased with the results of the show. Dexesh Doshi of Rosy Blue’s polished diamond division, stated, “This year the show has been good, though the quality-conscious buyers want to pay four to five percent less than the usual prices. I guess it’s because of the price point related to gold as well as diamonds. While buyers are a bit apprehensive about the international market, I feel that the domestic scenario is just too good.” Abhishek Ghatiwala, of Jaipur-based Ghatiwala Jewellers, agreed with his assessment of the domestic market, predicting that it has “super potential” and cautioned buyers to not get too affected by the international scenario. “Price point is a bit of resistance; otherwise the show has been as good as every year,” he said. “The international scenario is weakening the sentiments of the buyers as they just want to wait and watch the prices of gold and diamonds. They are unable to decide right now.” Plans for next year’s show include even more activities and events. It will be held August 23 to 27, 2012. (www.iijs.org; www.gjepc.org)

At IIJW’s grand finale, Bollywood star Sonam Kapoor, IIJW’s Brand Ambassador, wears a necklace by Boucheron (Paris).


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No 295 / Summer 2012

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TRADE SHOW FOR JEWELRY AND WATCHES FEBRUARY 10 – 13, 2012 MUNICH INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIRS INHORGENTA.COM

A&Furst 32, 59 Aaron Basha 19, 57 Adam & Martucci 24 AGTA Gem Fair 75 Al Coro 52 Alessio Boschi 30, 70 Alpilex 65 Amore & Baci 34 Amrapali 42, 82 Amsterdam Sauer 18, 47, 74 Ana de Costa 59 Ankit Malpani 42, 54 Annaloucah 59 Anne Sportun 58 Antonini 56, 58 Antonio Bernardo 20 Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 66, 67 Anzie 55 Arrigoni 59 Art’Lev 34 Art’Orafo 34, 76 Assael 19 Bagues 52 Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair 77 Bapalal Keshavlal 24, 53 BaselWorld 71 Bastian Inverun 32 Be’Vish 78 Belack 58 Belmont 59 Bergio 20 Bizzotto 26 BK Jewellery 29 Bliss 34 Boucheron 83 Bristar 78 Brosway 26 Brumani 3, 22, 52, 60 Bruner 44, 74 Byzance 34 C Krishnian Chetty 82 Carelle 55 Carla Amorim 22 Carol Kauffmann 58 Casato 56 Centurion 68, 69 Chimento 70 Chopard 61 Christian Tse 54, 61 Club Brazil 78 Commelin 19, 58 Constantin Wild 58 Coomi 28 Costantini 34 Couture Show 81 Cris Porto 62, 63 Crivelli 20, 59 Damiani 20, 32 Daniel Espinosa 20, 54 Danielle Metais 76 David Lin Jades 53, 59 DeGrisogono 30 Dhandia 42 Diamrusa 57 Dominic Jones 59 Duang Kaew Jewelry 55 Eclat Jewels 61 Edward Mirell 26 Elke Berr 56

Emil Becker 64 Erick J. Exertier 61 Faraone 55 Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie 73 Forever Jewels 53, 80 Forum Romano 34, 52 FR Hueb 74 Garaude Paris 55 Garavelli 22, 70 Gavello 55 Gehna 82 Gemfields 10, 11 Gemtique 19, 80 Georland 19 Glenn Lehrer 60 Goldesign 60, 74 Goshwara 32 Green G 80 Guilherme Duque 76 Gumuchian C.II, 19, 56 Gurhan 58 Haribo 52 HAZ Jewellery Design 78 Heloisa Fitzgerald 56 Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair 79 IBGM 30 Inhorgenta Fair 88 Isabelle Langlois 60 Ivanka Trump 22 Jane Taylor 54, 59 Jasmine Alexander 30 Jewellery Theatre 58 Jewelmer 24, 50, 51 JFA Designs 59 JJ Jewels Milano 60 Joanna Angelett 54 Joias Griebler 34 Jolie B Ray 26 Jorg Heinz 55 JS Gems 60 Judith Ripka 30 Jutta Munsteiner 64 Katrina Kelly 22 La Reina 28 Leaderline 34 Legrand Jewellery 80 Leila Tai 26 Levian 19 Lili Jewelry 61 Lorenz Baumer 57 Luca Carati 18, 53 Luxenter 56 Madstone/Kerri Halpern 30 Magerit 24, 52 Manoel Bernardes 76 Manu & Cris Gaspari 18, 27 Marco Bicego 22, 60 Marina B 18 Mark Schneider 53 Marlene Lodi 49 Mary Esses 20 Masriera 18 Mathon Paris 19, 54, 58 Mattioli 52 Maya Jewels 19 Metalsmith Sterling 24 Miiori 19 Minah Joias 28 Monica Kapur 83

Montegrappa 30 Mousson 56, 61 Muzo Intl 16, 17, C.III MVee/Aspire 22, 25, 30, 53 Nanis 70 NF Joias 32 Nina Runsdorf 28 Nouvelle Bague 41 Odara 52 Ole Lynggard 57 OMI Gems 57 Opera Omnia 6, 7, 18, 26, 49, 61 Oscar Heyman 19, 55 Palmiero. 72 Pamela Froman 20, 55 Pamela Huizenga 12, 13, 28 Pasquale Bruni 34 Paula Crevoshay 59 Pearce Design 28, 54 Peter Storm 20 Peter Tanisman 60 Piaget 54 Piat 59 Pierre Lannier 53 Pippo Perez 30 Pochai Jewellery 30 Preziose 57 Raffaella Mannelli 26 Rahaminov Diamonds 28 Ramon 20 Rebecca 26, 53 Rhonda Faber Green 30 Rina Limor 23, 32, 58 Roberto Bravo 19, 61 Roberto Coin 72 Roberto Demeglio 70 Rodney Rayner 26, 33 Rosy Blue 43 Sant 56 Schlangenotto Opals 64 Scott Kay 26 Seven Joias 20 Siera 26 Simon G 59 Swarovski Gem Visions 30, 55 Syna 32 Talento Italiano 72 Tamga Jewellery 34 Tanishq 83 Tavares Gems 61 The Fifth Season 20, 35, C.IV Ti Sento 34 Todd Reed 28 Tresor 18, 21, 56, 60 TTF Studio 57 Utopia 26 Valerie MacCarthy 22 Vancox 57, 74 Vendorafa C.I 4, 5, 24, 36, 37, 72 Vhernier 59 Vianna 8, 9, 22, 44, 53, 61, 76 Victor Mayer 32 Vida/Aspire 80 Wallace Chan 80 Yael Sonia 14, 15, 28, 54 Yvel 28, 57 Ze Yu Industries 78 Zorab 24, 58 Zydo 19

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CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS Winter Trends Guide 2012  

International Jewellery trends & colours

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