No 298 / Winter - Trends Guide 2014
EDITOR’S
LETTER
SPECIAL TRENDS GUIDE
W
ith the holidays behind us, we look forward to another year of bringing you the latest in designer jewellery from around the world as well as profiles on artistic individuals and other news of the industry. To kick off 2014, our special Trends 2014 edition offers images and insight into design from the Americas to Europe to Asia. And, since jewellery and fashion are linked, and because colour is a major design direction in both, this issue highlights Pantone’s top ten fashion colour directions for Spring/Summer 2014. But, while colour is important, black and white combinations continue to prove their staying power for 2014, with examples on pages 50 and 51. We also cannot underestimate the dazzle of diamonds, in both white and fancy colours, which are featured on pages 52 and 53. As a salute to the Year of the Horse, we evoke a variety of exotic equines on pages 48 and 49, while pages 54 and 55 pay tribute to the glamorous golden pearls from the South Seas. Besides colour—a defining element in S/S fashion—sheer details, fringe, crop tops, and exaggerated silhouettes made strong fashion statements on the runways. Some designers even brought a little extra sparkle to their creations, with the addition of shimmering sequins, crystal clusters, costume gems, and other elegant and elaborate embellishments. The major directions for jewellery design for 2014 are mostly a continuation and evolution of past trends. The most important direction remains the use of colour, generally represented by gemstones, enamel, and even pearls. These Colour Combos reflect a mix of similar or contrasting shades. Nature’s Bounty evokes the natural world, with flowers and butterflies leading the trend, although snakes and marine creatures are close behind. The last few years have seen a big increase in openwork pieces, evoking Airy Elegance, in response to high metals prices. While the hoop remains the most popular form of earring, Exotic Earwear is sharing its spotlight. Edgy designs have moved mainstream as more designers engage in Skullduggery. Enticing Tassels continue their popularity in a variety of materials, while Wide Wristwear comes in all shapes and can be worn on the wrist or upper arm. As people look more towards organic and natural looks, the Au Naturel trend is reflected in the use of rough stones, drusies, or other “earthy” materials as well as eco-friendly gold, silver, and gems. New to our top trend list this year are Multi-Finger Rings, which adorn two or more fingers or even the hand, and Opulent Opal, with its remarkable versatility and increasing popularity among designers and consumers. Other articles in this issue include a special section on Making a Difference, where we feature six Awesome Individuals in our industry who are giving back to the global community in their own wonderful ways. Our usual designer profiles and interviews are also on the menu, as is a look at jewellery featured at the world’s trade fairs over the last few months. The entire team at CIJ Trends & Colours wishes you a wonderful and very prosperous year. Cynthia
Whit NY, featuring Pantone’s Violet Tulip and Celosia Orange. 06
Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief
I N
T H I S
I S S U E On the Cover
No 298 / Winter - Trends Guide 2014
48
P51SLR ring with rose tourmaline in 18K rose gold by Jochen Pohl. Cover Feature, page 10 www.jochenpohl.com
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Trends & Colours – Misis
Top Ten Trends – Ambermix
Editor’s Letter 06 Special Trends Guide
Cover Feature
23
10 Jochen Pohl – The Power of Simplicity
Top Ten Trends – Garrard
Interview 12 Jye Luxury Collection – Jewellery to Treasure
Profiles
Trends & Colours
14 Magerit – Artistic Expression 28 Caroline C – Transcending Art 40 Muzo Emeralds – An Adventure in Green
48 50 52 54
Design Trends 17 Top Ten Trends in Jewellery Design for 2014
Fashion Colours
The Year of the Horse 2014 Black and White Beauties Dazzling Diamonds The Power of Gold
60
30 Top Ten Fashion Colours for 2014
36
Making a Difference 42 Awesome Individuals
Marketplace 58 64 70 74
Dazzling Designs in Venice and Vicenza Thailand Looks to the Future Intergem Proclaims Another Successful Show Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair – Another Record Year
Marketplace – Sanalitro
Index 80 Editorial and Advertisers Index
Book Review 82 The Ultimate Orient – The Search for the Perfect Pearl
Fashion Colours – Emilio Sosa
Editor: Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors: Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Barbara Wheat, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising Contacts: Alexandra Montandon, amontandon@europastar.com, T 41 22 307 7847; Nathalie Glattfelder nglattfelder@europastar.com, T +41 22 307 7832; Italy - Alessandra Arati, aarati@studioarati.it, T +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena csapena@europastar.es, T +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong, maggietong@europastar.com, T + 852 9658 1830 / India - Bhupal Potdar, bhupalpotdar@gmail.com, T +91 98 2115 1035 / USA - Karen Nuckols, knuckols@CIJintl.com, T +1 610 986 7285 • Graphic Design: Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director: Philippe Maillard • Website: www.CIJintl.com. Published by Europastar HBM SA, 25 Route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, T +41 22 307 7837; Fax: +41 22 300 3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2013 by Europa Star HBM SA • www.europastar.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ Trends & Colours. 08
C O V E R
F E AT U R E
JOCHEN POHL – THE POWER OF SIMPLICITY Today, Jochen Pohl’s reputation for making perfect jewellery extends well beyond Europe. From the meticulous selection of the most beautiful gems and the impressively powerful form of his pieces to perfect and uncompromising in-house craftsmanship, it all has to be just right By T.R. Flora
W
hen the goldsmith and jewellery designer founded his company 17 years ago, he had a clear idea of what his signature would be—totally unrivalled artistry that would always take its inspiration from the stone, around which the form, or design if you will, develops organically. Exceptional precious stones make his pieces stand out in any jeweller’s display window. Today, the location of his company in Idar-Oberstein gives him the opportunity to see and buy rare stones before the rest of the trade. His favourite stone? He struggles for an answer. Tourmaline, sapphire, garnet… He is like a parent who loves all his children equally, even though they are all so different. Pohl has not forsaken white diamonds, however. For a goldsmith, white is just one colour of many in the family of gems. Gemstones expand his creative freedom, which is something he holds dear. It is the freedom to surprise, alternating between precise and playful forms. It is the freedom to use different materials and to explore different stylistic directions. It is the freedom to quite literally expand the collection’s range of facets. Another insight into Jochen Pohl’s success can be summed up in two words: respect and dignity. He has respect for the work of his employees, for the precious stones he cuts, and for the things that inspire him, for example, architecture. Form and design, however, are only part of the holistic approach he takes. They are complemented by the materials, the 10
unique properties of the gems, and— above all—by the craftsmanship. The pieces need to be crafted with care, diligence, feeling, and passion in order to create that which Jochen Pohl values so much—jewellery with a certain poise, elegant dignity, and the power of simplicity. Not only can you see the carefully balanced composition that characterizes Jochen Pohl’s pieces, but, even with your eyes closed, you can feel their almost gentle equilibrium and distinctive character. Heritage, Philosophy, Perfection Jochen Pohl was born and raised in the world-famous gemstone capital of Idar-Oberstein in Germany. As a 27-year-old goldsmith, he founded his own company in 1996. From the outset, the focus was on outstanding precious stones. Because of his contacts with many precious stone dealers in his hometown and his own unique feel for exceptional stones, his very first jewellery collection was distinctive due to its notable gems. After all, the careful selection of stones, respect for their beauty, and an appreciation of their unique personality—as Jochen Pohl himself calls it—form the fundamental first step in his artistic process. Without exception, all of Jochen Pohl pieces are made in his in-house workshop by experienced master craftspeople. Anyone who has ever witnessed the many steps involved in
a goldsmith’s work and the extraordinary degree of precision required will know that experience and devotion are needed in spades. And it all takes time—time that the designer is prepared to take, out of deference for the stone and the precious metal, which have taken millions of years to form. The Jewel’s Personality Jochen Pohl designs his pieces as subtle stages that are perfectly tailored to the individual character of the stone in question. They are miniature sculptures with a surprisingly modern form—atmospheric creations composed from exceptional gemstones and the most precious metals. In order to do justice to the remark-
able crystals, his pieces have always been characterized by a minimalist and almost sculptural design style. But their true character only comes to the forefront when you hold them in your hand. Instead of a metallic hardness, you feel an unexpected and sensual softness and balance. The solid metals used do not diminish the lightness of the ring on the finger. This singular property offers an equilibrium that makes his pieces so distinctive, and highlights how essential their feel and texture are to their development. For all their visual opulence and even radical minimalism, this equilibrium is shared by all Jochen Pohl pieces, and evokes the power of simplicity. (jochenpohl.com)
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I N T E RV IE W
JYE LUXURY COLLECTION – JEWELLERY TO TREASURE One of today’s fastest growing brands is Jye Luxury Collection. Starting as a purveyor of premium pearls more than 30 years ago, it is now a creator of luxurious jewellery. To learn more about its plans, CIJ Trends & Colours spoke with the creative force behind the brand, Jennifer Chang. Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar
CIJTC: What made you shift from being a seller of fine pearls to a manufacturer of fine jewellery? Jennifer Chang: In the early 1990s, I realized that the cultivation of pearls would likely lead to their oversupply, and I also like the creative aspects of making beautiful and high-quality jewellery. CIJTC: You produce many gemstone pieces. Which stones do you prefer and what percentage of the collections are colour and what are mainly diamond lines? JC: We specialize in fine precious stones—very high qualities of rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and some jade, two carats and above, set in 18K gold or or platinum. Our production is divided fairly evenly between coloured gems and diamond pieces. We also do a bridal line, which is made mostly with diamonds. CIJTC: Who is your target clientele? JC: Consumers with disposable income, generally over 40, although we have clients in their 20s and 30s, who see jewellery not simply as adornment, but also as investment. Unlike property, there are no taxes or maintenance fees with jewellery and, importantly, there is great pleasure of wearing it. CIJTC: So, do you advise your clients to purchase high-end pieces for investment? JC: It depends on the client. First and foremost, they must love the jewellery. It is true, however, that the prices of fine emeralds, for example, have increased more than 50 percent in the last five years. Fine jade has gone up more than tenfold over the last decade, and continues its vertical ascent. CIJTC: How much of your collection is fine jewellery, pieces that you might term investment quality? JC: It accounts for about 30 to 40 percent of total sales, with prices ranging from $3500 to $430,000 depending on the size and quality of the gemstone. CIJTC: What efforts have you made to increase brand awareness of Jye Luxury Collection? JC: In previous years, we promoted the brand basically to the trade, but now we are looking at new marketing tools for both the trade and consumers. CIJTC: What are some of these new marketing endeavours? JC: One example is our ad campaign over the past five months that appeared in the United Airlines flight magazine, Hemisphere, which has 7.2 million copies in circulation every month. The response has been very positive and has created increased brand awareness among consumers, as well as helping to promote our retailers, since we don’t sell directly to the public. Another example is that, since 2009, our jewellery has won many prizes, including the JCK Jewelers’ Choice awards, and this recognition helps gets our name out. CIJTC: Are you active in social media as well? JC: We post once or twice a week on Facebook and Pinterest, and our social media team tweets twice a day, since Twitter is a good way to share the latest designs. We also publish an e-newsletter for our retailers to keep them up to date on new pieces. CIJTC: What are your plans for the brand over the next few years? JC: We will continue our brand awareness initiatives on a consumer level while working with retailers. I would also like to add that we are now an official AGS vendor. We will continue our goal of ensuring that our retail partners are able to provide their customers with the ideal piece of jewellery, one that they will treasure for many years to come. 12
Centuri on Scottsdale,Booth #714 AGTAGemFai rTucson,Booth #1101
Tradeshowroom San Franci sco ( 415)6218880 j yescorp@yahoo. com www. j yescorp . com
P R OF I LE
MAGERIT – ARTISTIC EXPRESSION With a name evoking the ancient term for the city of Madrid—meaning ‘place of many streams’—Magerit draws inspiration from the world’s many cultures and regions in its quest to create original and exquisite jewellery art. By Cynthia Unninayar
E
stablished in 1994, its two founding partners—hailing from a long dynasty of jewellery making families in Madrid—wanted to breath new life and fresh ideas into the sector. And, this breath of fresh air resulted in inimitable and immediately identifiable high quality collections that depart from the tenets of traditional jewellery, while drawing inspiration from architecture, history, mythology, and nature. These creative and original designs are divided into a range of collections, from Atlantis, drawing inspiration from the mysterious sirens of the sea, to Zodiac, with its singular depiction
Atlantis
of the twelve signs. In between are a number of original lines such as Vitral, inspired by the distinctive genius of Gothic architecture, Mythology, centred on the powerful figure of Medusa, Babylon, featuring motifs from the ancient city, and Scorpion, which highlights the fearsome arachnid. The brand’s latest collection is the sophisticated Versailles, inspired by the artistic period heralded by Louis XIV and evoking the harmony and joie 14
Babylon
de vivre associated with this golden age. Each piece has been imbued with a strong sense of realism and reflects the customs and lifestyle of the Sun King and his glorious era, including the majestic palace and its ornate engravings and fountains. Magerit takes pride in its high quality artisanal jewellery, and limits production to 4000 pieces per year, all made in the brand’s workshops in Madrid. As a guarantee of authenticity and quality, each piece is engraved with its own serial number, thus ensuring its exclusive nature as a unique, handcrafted jewel. These miniature works of wearable art are sold in more than 100 fine
Scorpion
jewellers in 20 countries, from Europe to the Ukraine, passing by Asia, North America, and the Middle East. To promote the brand and help their retail partners, the brand “offers coop advertising, trunk shows, and other types of ‘brand-awareness events,” explains José Carrera, Vice President of Sales, who also manages the USA market from Spain, visiting it three to four times a year. He also indicated that the brand has plans for opening a sales subsidiary there in the future. While quality and design are the two main pillars of the brand, Magerit is also committed to socially responsible practices. “Magerit uses the best
Versailles
raw materials from legitimate sources, who share the same high level of corporate ethics as our company,” insists José Carrera. These resources then pass into the hands of highly skilled craftsmen who combine their artisanal prowess with the use of advanced technology to maintain the high standards of the brand. The result is not simply a beautiful piece of adornment, but also a form of artistic expression. (mageritjoyas.com)
© 2013J ackKelége& Co.
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Formorei nformati on www. j ackkelege. com -877. 6. kelege Follow uson Facebook
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TOP TEN TRENDS IN JEWELLERY DESIGN FOR 2014 Tresor
In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we present the top ten design directions for jewellery in 2014, with examples from a variety of creative designers from around the globe.
1 Marco Bicego
AG Design
By Cynthia Unninayar
Colour Combos
Designs made with single colours are sharing the jewellery spotlight with creative combinations of hues, evoked in gemstones, enamel, metals, and pearls, as designers mix it up with contrasting or complementary shades to create beautiful pieces showcasing a wide variety of harmonious tones.
Yoko London
Andrea Candela
Bizzotto Gioielli
Joia
Palmiero
Kavant
Cornelia Goldsmith
Outfit by Emerson by Jackie FraserSwan (photo: MBFW NYC)
Goldiaq Creation Louis Fiessler
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TOP TEN TRENDS IN JEWELLERY DESIGN FOR 2014 2 Graff
Mathon Paris
Nature’s Bounty
Perennial favourites in fine jewellery are those that evoke the natural world. For 2014, the most popular flora and fauna themes are flowers, butterflies, birds, and marine creatures. Snakes, frogs, pets, insects, and jungle animals nicely round out Nature’s Bounty.
Paula Crevoshay
Commelin Georland
Magerit
TTF Haute Joaillerie
Oro Trend
Misis
Staurino Gwennie Tam
Luca Carati
Outfit by Roberto Verino (photo: MBFW Madrid).
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Caroline C Sillam Jewelry
Ambermix
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Chete
Airy Elegance Cordova
Leaderline
A creative counterpoint to the economic times of the day, the lacy look evokes airy elegance in all types of metals and materials, with or without gemstones and diamonds, to create a luxurious look for less.
Lafonn
Bergio
Pranda
The Fifth Season
Sifani
Charles Krypell
Ivanka Trump
Amali
Ramon Carla Amorim Garavelli Charles Garnier
Outfit by Taashi Shoji (photo: MBFW NYC).
Jewelmer Joaillerie
Facet
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Exotic Earwear
While hoops remain the most popular type of earrings, other forms of earwear are also in the designer jewellery spotlight. These include shoulder dusters, exotic earcuffs, and unusual designs. They come in many shapes and sizes, often adorned with diamonds, pearls enamel, and gemstones.
Caroline C
Leyla Abdolahi Dada Arrigoni
Chad Allison
Vianna Brasil Autore
Bapalal Keshavlal Outfit by Project Runway (photo: MBFW NYC).
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Damiani Nikos Koulis
TOP Bohemme
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TOP TEN TRENDS IN JEWELLERY DESIGN Olivier de FOR 2014 Saintloup 5
Hellmuth
Skullduggery
The most popular motif in “edgy� jewellery is the skull. Interpreted literally and figuratively in gold, silver, and other types of materials, skulls are often embellished with diamonds and gemstones. They are so popular that even prestigious and mainstream brands are adding skulls to their traditional lines.
Speake-Marin
Lydia Courteille
Horsecka
Wendy Yue Vida
Pippo Perez
Outfit by Mark and Estel (photo: MBFW NYC).
Sicis Watches
Madstone
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TOP TEN TRENDS IN JEWELLERY DESIGN FOR 2014 A & Furst Waskoll
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Bulgari
Enticing Tassels
Denise James
The tassel trend continues into 2014 with an even wider variety of earrings and pendants in a multitude of coloured gemstones, rough diamonds, seed pearls, and metallic chains.
Rudolf Friedman Graff
Entice by KGK Garrard
Jolie B. Ray Faberge
Royal India
Mazza
Stephen Webster
Katie Decker
Bayco
Carla Amorim Sillam Jewelry Outfit by Supima (photo: MBFW NYC).
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Clara Williams
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Sutra
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Multi-Finger Rings
Jewels for the fingers are receiving a great deal of attention from the world’s designers today, who are decorating not one but two or more fingers with one piece of jewellery. A fun trend for 2014, these multi-finger rings come in plain metal or adorned with an assortment of gemstones and diamonds.
Dada Arrigoni
Stephen Webster
Parulina
Garrard
Imogen Belfield
Noudar
Pamela Froman
Christine Hafermalz-Wheeler
Valery Demure Outfit by Mara Hofman (photo: MBFW NYC).
AS 29
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Wide Wristwear
Jye Luxury Collection
Zorab
Wide wristwear is worn in a variety of creative ways, on the wrist or as a signature piece on the upper arm. Whether simple metal or adorned with gems or enamel, cuffs offer the perfect way to add individuality to any ensemble. Marina B
Jewelmer Joaillerie
GL Group
Victor Veylan Ramon
Daniel Espinosa
Rebecca
Outfit by Maria Barros (photo: MBFW Madrid).
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Garrard
H.Weiss
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Collette Jewelry
Au Naturel
Nina Runsdorf
Federica Rettore
This trend encompasses two related trends: the growing use of “eco-materials” based on concerns for the en-vironment, sustainability, and social responsibility; and a move towards a more “natural” look reflected in the use of geodes, lava, and iminerals as well as highly “included” and affordable gems such as sapphires and emeralds in their rough or raw state. Pearce Design
Sun Jewels
Pamela Huizenga
Rina Limor
Kavant
Todd Reed Toby Pomeroy
Absolute OroAfrica
Outfit in recycled fabric by Lori Del Genis, Conscious Elegance.
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Carelle
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TOP TEN TRENDS IN JEWELLERY DESIGN FOR 2014 Katherine Jetter
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Opulent Opal Arunashi
Cloaked in mystery for centuries, opal is unlike any other gem. With its vibrant fireworks of colour, each piece is unique and lends itself to a myriad of creative designs. Today, opal enjoys newfound popularity with jewellers around the world.
Dreamtime
Barbara Heinrich
Pamela Huizenga
MVee
Suna Bros. Michael Endlich Sharart
Alessio Boschi
Cody Opals
Victor Veylan
Outfit by Kayta Leonovich (photo: MBFW NYC).
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Suzy Landa Paula Crevoshay
Margery Hirschey
Yael Designs
P R OF I LE
CAROLINE C – TRANSCENDING ART Great art elicits an invisible world—a world that transcends mere beauty. By Diana S. Zimmerman
Caroline Chartouni
I
s it possible for a piece of jewelry to transcend art? One glimpse at Caroline Chartouni’s exquisite designs and you’ll know it is. This award-winning designer, whose background embraces art forms as diverse as fashion, interior design, and painting, doesn’t just create spectacular jewelry. Her highly original pieces create emotional focal points that are not just loved, but cherished by those who are fortunate enough to own them—and desired by those who admire from afar. “Every piece I create must pass a ‘love test,’” she explains, “or I won’t let it go.” It’s not enough for Caroline that the fortunate new owner merely “likes” her meticulously crafted jewel. He or she must feel an emotional attachment to it. Before she begins a design, Caroline spends time with her clients, not only discussing what they like, but learning about them as individuals—their lifestyles, their tastes, their personalities, and why they want the piece. 28
AGTA Spectrum Gem Diva Award 2013.
Is it to say “I love you,” or to enhance their individual style, or dazzle on an evening out? “Only then can I start to design,” she says. Passionate about every single detail, Caroline personally oversees the production of each of her pieces, which are made in New York, and only uses 18K Fair-Trade gold for the settings. She frequently travels the world searching for the perfect gems for her clients. “Finding matched 10 or 15-carat stones isn’t always easy,” she admits, having gone half way around the globe on numerous occasions to locate them. Among the many precious stones she seeks are the highest quality tourmalines, including Paraiba and rubellite, tanzanites, sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, and others. And, with many of her remarkable pieces, the stones often dictate the setting. “The design must enhance, not upstage their unique qualities,” she adds. Indeed, the fascination of her designs lies in the subtlety of their beauty.
“A strong design should never scream, ‘Look at me,’” insists this uniquely individual designer. “It should beckon you to explore every nuance. And as you do, to feel a sense of magic and joy that captures the moment.” Having grown up and studied in Paris, she credits the abundant art and beauty of the city for influencing her passion for design. “As a child,” she explains, “my mother gave me the creative freedom and support to view the world and nature through an open window, without limitations. I’ve been an artist and designer all my life.” AGTA Spectrum Award 2014.
And this creative freedom led to two AGTA Spectrum Awards: in 2013 for a pair of delicately facetted rose quartz, pink gold, and diamond earrings; and in 2014 for an elegant pair of earrings crafted of diamonds, emeralds, tanzanites, and Paraiba tourmalines. Caroline began by designing clothing, and then creating the jewelry to go with her stylish fashions. People would inquire where she bought the piece she was wearing—a piece that she designed.
“They’d ask if they could buy it,” she reminisces. “And that’s how I got into the jewelry business. Today, each time I create a new piece for a client, I feel the same way I did when designing for myself. I feel the joy of having created something beautiful, and that it will make someone happy.”
Making others happy is probably an understatement for Caroline’s loyal clientele—many of whom return time after time for another chance to fall in love with their next Caroline C piece of jewelry—jewelry that indeed transcends art. (carolinec.com) 29
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TOP TEN FASHION COLOURS Jye Luxury Collection
FOR SPRING 2014 In this issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends guide, we again present the top ten fashion colours for Spring 2014 as forecast by Pantone in its Fashion Color Report Spring 2014. Calling it “a season of colourful equilibrium,” the report continues that “designers take a modern twist on the traditional by pairing soft pastels with vivid brights... Inspired by a mixture of blooming flowers, travels abroad, and strong, confident women, designers use colour to refresh, revive and defy conventional wisdom. “This season, consumers are looking for a state of thoughtful, emotional and artistic equilibrium. While this need for stability is reflected in the composition of the palette, the inherent versatility of the individual colours allows for experimentation with new looks and colour combinations,” explains Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute®. These fashion colours are also brought to life by a variety of jewellery designers as seen on the following pages.
Omi Privé
By Cynthia Unninayar
Leaderline Syna
Bellarri 2(X)IST Watches
Gumuchian
Imperial topaz, Constantin Wild
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Pamella Roland by Pamella DeVos using Pantone Celosia Orange, a warm and optimistic, spontaneous hue.
Hilat
Meissen Joaillerie
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2014.
Sylvie
Thistle & Bee
Gem Platinum
Graff
Rahaminov Diamonds
AcP by Quadamas
Ramon
Art 7
Nanis
Oly Lynggaard
Rodney Rayner
Rachel Roy using Pantone Freesia, a blazing yellow tropical, floral-inspired shade, with warmth and energy.
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Mark Schneider
Kabana Different Gems
Nouvelle Bague Costis
Denise James
Le Vian
Old World Chain
Nanette Lepore using Pantone Cayenne, a high-pitched red that adds a dash of spicy heat to neutrals.
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Clementina Duarte
Jack Kelege
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2014.
TOP TEN FASHION COLOURS FOR SPRING 2014 Ti Sento Katie Decker
Giovanni Ferraris
Moraglione
A & Furst
A & Furst
Loretta Castoro
E & V Jewellery
Rebecca Delance
Emerson by Jackie Fraser-Swain, using Pantone Hemlock, a summery, ornamental green, that provides a decorative touch very different from the greens of recent seasons.
Tourmaline, Wild & Petsch
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C O L O U R S La Reina
Penny Preville Gavello
Eichorn
Color Story
Effy
James Kaya
Denny Wong
Robert Wan
Sachin + Babi using Pantone Placid Blue; like a picture-perfect, tranquil, and reassuring sky, it induces a sense of peaceful calmness.
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Elke Berr
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2014.
TOP TEN FASHION COLOURS FOR SPRING 2014 Kwiat Sharart Chaumet
Sethi Couture
Jacqueline Diani
Armadani
Casato Roma
Bavna Sicis Watches
Tirisi Jewelry Swarovski Gems
Jackie Aiche
Jochen Pohl
M.Patmos by Marcia Patmos, using Pantone Dazzling Blue, a scintillating, polar opposite to Placid Blue.
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T R E N D S Mimi
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C O L O U R S David Lin Jades
Dada Arrigoni
Isabelle Langlois
Erica Courtney
Rivoir Bellon
Garavelli
Vianna Brasil
MCL
Emilio Sosa, using Pantone Violet Tulip, a romantic, vintage purple, evokes wistful nostalgia.
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Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2014.
TOP TEN FASHION COLOURS FOR SPRING 2014
Caroline C
Pamela Huizenga
Mathon Paris
Metalsmiths Sterling
Gavello Mousson Atelier
Kunzite, Constantine Wild
Kara Ross Coge
Alice K
Yael Sonia
Alexandra Mor
Juicy Couture using Pantone Radiant Orchid, a bold counterpart to Violet Tulip.
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Crivelli
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Pamela Huizenga
Adami & Martucci
Kendra Scott
Eli Jewels
Magerit
Victor Mayer H. Weiss
Inbar
Roberto Coin
Bohemme
BCBGMaxAzria, using Pantone Paloma, which serves as a quintessential neutral, interesting enough to be worn alone or combined with any color for sophisticated poise.
38
Fashion sketches, colours, and quotes are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring 2014.
Ponte Vecchio
TOP TEN FASHION COLOURS Anzie
JFA Designs
FOR SPRING 2014 Vianna Brasil
J Jewels
Bizzotto Gioielli
Jochen Pohl
Bonato
Mattiolli
Al Coro
Adeam by Hanako Maeda, using Pantone Sand, a lightly toasted and amiable neutral, conjures images of the beach and the carefree days of summer.
39
P R OF I LE
MUZO EMERALDS – AN ADVENTURE IN GREEN The mystique and appreciation for emerald is said to stretch back in time at least 6,000 years. Literary works by Aristotle and Pliny the Elder mention emerald, and it is well known that Cleopatra had a love for this beautiful green gemstone. By Barbara Wheat
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he history of emeralds in South America is well known through the mining efforts of the Incas and the Spanish conquistadors who developed a vibrant emerald trade between Colombia, Peru, and Mexico. The finest of these gems were known to come from the emerald mines in Muzo, in Colombia. Muzo emeralds were sent all over Europe, to the Spanish Royal Court, and even as far away as India where they were set into the treasures of the great Moguls. Muzo is the oldest emerald mine still in operation with over five centuries of uninterrupted activity. Emerald mining continues today at the legendary Muzo mines, which are located in the foothills of the eastern branch of the Andes Mountains, about 100 kilometers north-northwest of Bogotá. This extraordinary source has provided the world with spectacular stones, and continues today to pro-
A 12.01-ct hexagonal-cut Muzo emerald set with diamonds and spessartite garnets, in gold and platinum, which sold at Sotheby’s for $1,440,219, a record per-carat price. 40
The Muzo region and the Rio Minera River (photo: Serge Sibert).
duce exceptional emeralds that are prized for their size, clarity and, of course, their ideal colour. In November 2009, Muzo International, a branch of Texma Group, was awarded the exclusive rights to operate the mines. When it comes to mining emeralds, Muzo International also takes a “green” approach in the process of getting the gem from mine to market. After the emeralds are extracted, they are polished and facetted by the company’s skilled cutters, working under company policies that ensure strict adherence to environmental initiatives and safety protocols. Muzo International has achieved, and exceeded, standards established by Colombian legislation for occupational safety, workers rights, and employee health. At the same time, additional efforts have addressed issues related to reforestation, sanitary conditions, and public health that have benefitted the entire area.
A miner finds a 168-carat rough emerald (photo: Serge Sibert)
The company is dedicated to maintaining a business culture committed to sustainable mining development within a responsible framework providing positive outcomes for the individual, the mining community, and the environment. The company differentiates its emeralds by ensuring that the gems and the methods by which they have been processed are of the highest quality. When necessary, only non-permanent cedar oil is used to embellish the stones. Furthermore, each stone is accompanied by a certificate issued by an independent gem laboratory confirming its origin and authenticity as a Muzo emerald. Traceability is achieved through individually numbering each facetted emerald so that it can be traced back to the rough it originates from.
A magnificent 13.83-ct emerald facetted in Muzo International’s Bogotá workshops, from a 73.42-ct rough.
Among the most famous gems to come from Muzo is the Fura Emerald, a 15,000-carat (2.270 kg) rough stone discovered at the mine 14 years ago. With its exceptional size, it is five times larger than the more famous Unguentarium emerald in the Vienna Imperial Treasury. Muzo is also where the most valuable rough emerald in the world was found, based on its outstanding colour and brightness—the 2,000-carat Tena. The stone was named for a mythical queen from the region whose tears were said to have created the emeralds. Its estimated worth far exceeds that of the emerald brooch once owned by Russian Empress Catherine the Great that sold at auction in 2010 for $1,650,500. Emeralds from Muzo come in all sizes and are prized for their quality, clarity, and ideal colour, ranging from saturated green to a slightly bluishgreen. One such stone, a magnificent 12.01-carat blue-green emerald, shattered the world record for carat price at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva, garnering $1,440,219 for an unheard of $119,000 per carat. Another exceptional, transparent, and enhancement-free Muzo emerald (9.27 carats) was sold at Christie’s for $835,682. The report from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, certifying its Colombian origin
A 207.315-ct rough Muzo emerald, mined in the Tequendama shaft, level 74, February 28, 2012, giving rise to two pear-shape emeralds of 42.66 cts and 41.46 cts.
One of Muzo International’s community service projects is a primary school funded by the company (photo: Serge Sibert).
Experience and expertise are needed to find the right angles for cutting the rough emeralds (photo: Serge Sibert).
Cut in Muzo International’s Bogotá workshops: a 25.17-ct emerald (left) from a 43.75-ct rough, mined in Muzo, February 29, 2012, and a 27.59-ct emerald from a 48.52-ct rough, mined May 21, 2013.
stated, “Natural emeralds from Colombia of this size, colour, and purity represent a great rarity and the described gemstone is thus a very exceptional treasure.” With a dedication to the highest standards, Muzo International also takes pride in the fact that its cutting workshops in Bogotá have obtained ISO 9001 certification. This official recognition establishes a solid framework for a systematic approach of all internal processes in order to satisfy the expectations of its customers. Ronald Ringsrud, an emerald expert and dealer with more than 30 years of experience, has been appointed Director of Operations and Sales at Muzo International this year. He is well regarded in the gemstone industry, and known especially for his book, which was released in 2009—Emeralds, A Passionate Guide. Muzo International emeralds are sold exclusively through a network of representatives, which includes the most trusted names in the gemstone and jewellery industry. By controlling every aspect of emerald production, from the mines through the expert cutting and polishing, as well as the marketing of the finished stones, Muzo International not only maintains absolute control over the quality of its stones, but is also improving the quality of life for an entire region. (muzoemerald.com) 41
MAKING A DIFFERENCE
AWESOME INDIVIDUALS Each day, we have the opportunity to serve or be served. A life well-lived requires both. – Ancient Proverb By Diana S. Zimmerman and Cynthia Unninayar
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ith so much in the news that is negative, this article focuses on the positive. It features awesome individuals who not only run successful businesses, but find time to give back—to make a difference, and in doing so are changing the world one endeavour at a time. They are true examples of the best our industry has to offer and true role models for all. Lithos Jewelry – Rose and Lornie Mueller Never believe that a few caring people can’t change the world. For, indeed, that’s all who ever have. – Margaret Mead About 450 million years ago, the seas saw the emergence of one of nature’s most remarkable predators. A creature so amazing that, to this day, it is the object of legends, novels, and modern-day filmmaking. Feared by many, but admired and respected by those who truly understand their crucial role in the survival of our oceans, it is, of course, the shark. While most people discount the shark’s importance, one caring couple has made it a life-long passion to stop their oftenbrutal slaughter. Owners of Lithos Jewelry (a premier jewellery store with an AGScertified gem-testing laboratory and an incredible selection and collection of black and white South Sea pearls), Rose and Lornie Mueller are GIA Graduate Gemologists and AGS Certified Gemologist Appraisers. In addition to running a successful business in these economic times, Rose and Lornie are avid scuba divers. “There are more than 300 shark species,” Rose explains. “Sharks mature and reproduce late in life, usually at about 10 years of age, and have limited births. It is estimated that over 100 million sharks are killed year by man. This number rep42
Avid scuba divers as well as jewellers, Lorne and Rose Mueller were instrumental in protecting sharks in Palau.
resents approximately seven percent of the total shark population. These predators serve an important function in this ecosystem. They are really quite lazy and prefer to go after only the weak and infirm fish. Eliminating these fish keeps the gene pool strong. It is vital that sharks are protected.” Rose and Lornie’s determination to help save these magnificent creatures began with a trip to Palau, an island nation of Micronesia. “We make this difficult journey,” Lornie adds, “so we can scuba dive with the sharks. We have been in the midst of 60 or more at a time. We’ve watched them feed naturally, and move with grace and amazing speed against raging currents. And, we have never felt threatened.” In April 2009, on their 15th trip, Rose adds, “Lucy, the manager of Palau Pacific Resort told us about a bill in the Palau Senate that would allow shark finning. We were devastated. This heinous act had decimated the shark population in most countries of the world.” The couple knew they needed to take
action. “We returned home and began a campaign to stop this bill,” she continues. “I sent certified letters to our Senators in Florida and to Secretary of State, Hillary Clinton. Our government was in the process of gifting a large sum of money to Palau and I thought that it could be tied to a bill to prevent shark finning. But, I didn’t receive even one response.”
A gray reef shark pays little attention to Lornie and Rose as they swim near it. “We have never felt threatened when in the midst of sharks.”
“I continued to contact as many international dive operations as I could and urged them to write to the senators in Palau,” Rose explains. “Finally, I contacted the Ocean Futures Society run by Jean-Michel Cousteau, and explained the situation to his research assistant, Holly Lohuis. JeanMichel personally wrote each senator to plead this cause. He also submitted the study he’d done on the effect of finning on the tourism industry in the Maldive Islands. His intervention, and the response of thousands of divers around the world, made them rescind this bill. It marked the beginning of Palau as the world’s first shark sanctuary!”
A black-tip shark swimming with Trevally fish, one of the many graceful sharks Rose and Lornie have swum with over the years.
Rose and Lornie have completed over 1,300 dives and 18 visits to Palau. “Sadly,” she says, “there are fewer sharks, indicating that some finning still occurs, but at least it’s being watched. For this, we are grateful. People can make a difference.” And Rose and Lornie Mueller certainly have. Two awesome individuals who made an effort to do what is right, not only for innocent creatures, but also for humanity.
Lornie photogrphed this white-tip shark as it swam peacefully in the waters of Palau.
Delance Swiss Watches – Gisele Rufer We do not need magic to transform our world. We carry all the power we need inside ourselves already. We have the power to imagine better. – J.K. ROWLING Gisèle Rufer is definitely not your ordinary watchmaker. There is, in fact, nothing ordinary about her. Her brand, Delance Swiss Watches, was founded in 1996, and creates jewellery timepieces exclusively for women. In just a few years, Delance watches have become a talisman or, if you will, a “taliswoman” for femininity, worn by remarkable women all over the world. It’s no wonder that, when it comes to feminine causes, Gisèle is an internationally respected champion. “I am involved in many philanthropic projects,” she explains, “but I am especially passionate about the ones that involve women.” One of her favourite causes is the Women’s Foundation of Nepal (WFN) an NGO founded in 1988 by a group of professional Nepalese women who share a deep sense of social responsibility and a desire to help women in that nation. WFN strives to alleviate their problems through increased public awareness of opportunities for economic and social development by promoting gender equality, fostering social responsibility and selfreliance in developing villages and towns, and through direct social work. It empowers women to improve their lives and strengthen their families and their communities through hands-on programs. “Scarf-making is one of WFN’s projects to help women—who are often subject to domestic violence—elevate themselves to self-reliance,” says Gisèle. “Purchasing these scarves and shawls is a good way to help. At Delance, we regularly buy them for gifts to our clients.” This “give twice” approach not only directly helps women in Nepal, but also creates awareness of their situation with Delance’s clientele. Gisèle is also involved with the Maison Shalom in Burundi. “Maggy Barankitse is a remarkable woman who created this
Gisèle Rufer, right, offers a Delance watch to the winner of a drawing to raise money for WIN. Both women are wearing shawls from the Nepal organization WFN.
association in 1993 to help restore dignity to war and AIDS orphans, as well as street children and others in poverty,“ explains Gisèle. “We regularly donate watches for her fundraising efforts. Together, there is nothing we can’t achieve.” In addition to her mentoring projects and watch donations, Gisèle is active in the international women’s networking group, WIN, and travels the globe for its various activities and forums. “I believe women can really help other women,” she insists.
Maggy Barankitse during a presentation of her humanitarian work at a WIN networking event.
Just as Gisèle Rufer’s stunning watches embody all that is feminine—intelligence, strength, beauty, knowledge, and power— so do her actions. “I feel that women hold a special empowering energy, the knowledge and use of which Western women have now reclaimed in our work and our lives. We have an obligation to help all women around the world, regardless of caste, race, or religion, to do the same.” 43
M A KR IKN EG T AP LD AI FCF EE R–E NDCOE H A J E W E L L E R Y A N D W A T C H E S M Rosy Blue – Chikashi Miyamoto We must become the change we want to see in the world. – Mohandas K. Gandhi Rosy Blue is one of the world’s largest diamantaires. The company’s success is due as much from the exceptional quality of its products, as it is from the laudable ethics and integrity of the individuals who run it. In September, 2013, Rosy Blue sponsored one of its employees, Chikashi Miyamoto, to take part in the Turin to Monte Carlo cycling challenge of the Tour of Italy (Giro d’Italia) in support of Akshaya Patra, an international charity that provides food for education to more than a million children in India. “Supporting the Akshaya Patra Foundation is very important to me,” Chikashi Miyamoto explains,
“because no child should be forced to choose between earning money and basic education. My primary charitable cause is children, and my personal and professional association with the country of India for almost 30 years led me to the Akshaya Patra cause.” Miyamoto points out a few reasons he is so passionate: “One in three malnourished children lives in India. Twenty-six million primary school aged children are not in school, and 40 percent of students drop out before reaching the 5th grade.” “Witnessing poverty-stricken children on the streets every time I visit the country, after which my daughter is named, is heart wrenching. The only way to have an enduring impact on generations to come is to enable these children to be educated,”
he adds. “The Turin to Monte Carlo route includes extremely demanding climbs, but the challenge is nothing compared to what India’s poorest children must endure day in and day out.” The cycling challenge covered 470 km and 11,700 m of gruelling climbs that encompass some of the most difficult mountain passes featured in previous Giro d’Italia routes. It included climbing six passes over 2,000 m with the highest point reached on Day 3, Colle dell’Agnello (2,744 m), the sixth highest paved road in the Alps. [As a point of comparison, this year’s Tour de France had only one pass over 2,000 m, and it was 2,001 m.] “To date, the campaign has raised more than £13,000,” he says. “If we include uncollected pledges, the total is currently over £14,000. Given that the ride is a fully supported one, and involved international
Chikashi Miyamoto pauses on Day 3 at the border between France and Italy, at an altitude of 2744 meters, during the Turin-Monte Carlo cycling challenge.
Chikashi Miyamoto raised more than £14,000 for the Akshaya Patra Foundation, which feeds more than 1.3 million children in India. (Photo courtesy of Akshayapatra.org.)
Two members of the convivial group of 23 riders who set off from Alpignano, Italy on the five-day Turin to Monte Carlo cycling challenge, pause at one of the mountain passes in the fog. 44
travel, the cost of participation is quite substantial. Rosy Blue made this fundraising campaign possible by paying a substantial portion of the participation costs.” The diamond industry hasn’t always garnered the best reputation, but with companies such as Rosy Blue and awesome individuals such as Chikashi Miyamoto, the world is a much better place.
Jewelmer – Jacques Branellec and Manuel Cojuangco Hope has two beautiful daughters; Anger and Courage. Anger at the way things are, and Courage to see that they do not remain as they are. – Augustine of
Jacques Branellec examines the many organisms that thrive in the protected pearl farms, which serve as bio-regenerators for the area’s seas.
cyanide dropped into the water will kill the other marine organisms, including coral, over 1,000 square meters. Even when diluted, its toxicity persists for 20 years.” “In the equally illegal dynamite fishing, sticks of the explosive are thrown into the water and kill not only the target fish, but all the other fauna and flora nearby,” he continues. “The dead fish that float to the surface are scooped up, but all the others fall to the bottom.” In addition to taking decades for the coral to recover from these violent explosions, the sound deafens birds, marine mammals, fish, and other animals, causing disorientation, disease, and death. A third challenge is the unlawful technique of “slash and burn” used in cultivating rice. The desertification of the land and resulting silt that enters the ocean upsets the natural balance in the coastal ecosystem, leading to its ultimate destruction. Facing these issues on a daily basis, Jacques and Manuel realized that simply prohibiting these practices will not work because for some (but not all) of these wrongdoers, it is a question of survival. The only durable answer to these problems is to change the prevailing mentality and behavior by offering other options. In 2006, they created “Save Palawan Seas Foundation (SPSF)” to provide workable alternatives that are both economically rewarding and environmentally friendly. The SPSF includes conservation and management strategies to facilitate the long-term sustainable use of aquatic resources of the province of Palawan. It also operates a free medical clinic for residents of the neighbouring communities.
The most destructive challenge is the illegal practice of sodium cyanide fishing. “In order to capture live fish for the restaurant trade in parts of Asia,” Jacques says, “fishermen drop the deadly poison into the ocean. It stuns the fish, which are scooped up in nets, only to end up in an aquarium in an Asian restaurant to be selected as someone’s dinner. Just one teaspoon of
The SPSF’s model farm is used to teach the local community about the benefits of organic farming.
Hippo (354-430)
The focus of Manila-based Jewelmer has been on creating pearl farms to produce the highest quality golden pearls in the world. Along with their success, however, co-founders Jacques Branellec and Manuel Cojuangco are looking to the next level, where environmental protection, sustainability, and social responsibility are vitally important—where Jewelmer can contribute to making an even bigger difference. “While pollution, climate change, rising sea levels, and shore erosion are a threat to the global community,” says Jacques Branellec, “Jewelmer is also confronted with challenges on a micro level, problems with a direct bearing on the health of our oysters and hence our pearls.”
A free medical clinic is just one of Jewelmer’s projects to help the local population.
Among SPSF’s activities are classes for the local population on organic farming, cultivation of seaweed (large buyers have shown great interest), fish farming in sea pens, sea cucumber farming, handicrafts, and raising bees. “The results have been nothing short of spectacular!” Jacques confides. “We have people lining up for this type of education,” adds Manuel, “and some have even started small businesses and sell their products to tourist resorts or other communities in the area.”
Among the SPSF’s environmentally-oriented activities are classes on raising honey bees.
Jewelmer’s activities have garnered unexpected but welcome attention from outside, as Jacques explains: “A man from Europe who visited the pearl farms and also the SPSF was so impressed with the bee-farming project that he returned home and started a foundation to complement this work. He subsequently created 400 hives in the Philippines, with the proceeds of each hive going to finance one child’s schooling for one year. He came as a tourist and returned as a benefactor. Even if we think our own impact is limited, it has, in reality, no limits.” 45
MAKING A DIFFERENCE Simons Jewelers – Simon Katz For it is in giving that we receive. – St. Francis of Assisi
For over 35 years, Simons Jewelers has been one of St. Louis’ finest jewellers, featuring designer jewellery and watches that range from classic to unique, and from serious to fun. And, the company also makes an awesome statement when it comes to caring and compassion. “The Humane Society of Missouri is one of the oldest and most respected animal welfare organizations in the United States,” says owner Simon Katz. “It is an open admission shelter receiving thousands of animals yearly. I’m amazed that an organization that receives no tax support or United Way funding can accomplish all they do for the animals.” A dog owner himself, with two rescue dogs, Simon goes on to say: “I’m very proud to be among HSMO’s dedicated supporters and gratified that I can help them to achieve their mission of providing second chances for abused, neglected, and abandoned animals.”
Two rescue dogs that were adopted by animal lovers, Simon Katz and wife Francine, owners of Simons Jewelers in St. Louis.
Simon Katz doesn’t just support this important cause; he works diligently to make sure others are aware of its efforts. One example is an annual fundraising event called “A PAWS for Celebration,” held every October in his store. 46
Simon Katz and wife Francine at the PAWS for Celebration event held in their store to benefit the Humane Society of Missouri. Over the years, they have raised more than $800,000 for the HSMO.
Every guest receives a $50 gift certificate good for any jewellery purchase through the end of the year, plus a chance to win a $5,000, $2,500 or $1,000 shopping spree. “This year’s fundraiser included a special showing of incredible jewellery from Roberto Coin, Mazza Jewelry, Roberto Demeglio, and Joshua J,” he says. “We make sure there is something for every taste and budget.” “Over the years our attendance has certainly grown,” adds Simon. “In the very beginning, we had 150 or so guests. Now, our attendance is anywhere from 325 to 450 people. And this year, we had quite a bit of competition, all in St. Louis. The St. Louis Cardinals were playing Game 5 against the Pittsburgh Pirates, and the St. Louis Blues hockey team was playing the Chicago Blackhawks. We expected a drop in attendance, but more than 400 people came and the event was quite successful. Over the past 20 years, we have raised more than $800,000 for the HSMO.” Thanks in part to Simons Jewelers generous support, the HSMO is opening a new facility, in another part of St. Louis, called the New Best Buddy Pet Center, with a section called the “Katz Cozy Canine Wing.”
Kathy Warnick, president of the HSMO presents Simon Katz with a certificate of recognition and designation of the new “Katz Cozy Canine Wing.”
For most companies, helping just one charity would be enough. But Simons Jewelers is not like most companies. “We are involved in many local charitable organizations. Being in the jewellery business and having relationships within your community makes you aware of the needs of those less fortunate. I think a strong component of our success is that we believe in giving back to our community.” Simon Jewelers is more than just a highly successful business. It is a business that is making a difference for so many— some of which have been abandoned and abused, and others who sometimes simply need a helping hand.
YVEL Jewelry – Isaac and Orna Levy We make a living by what we get. We make a life by what we give. – WINSTON
receive a monthly stipend while attending, and employment opportunities after completion of the one-year course.
CHURCHILL
Isaac and Orna Levy are co-founders of the prestigious Yvel jewellery brand whose award-winning pearl and gemstone collections are sold in over 650 exclusive retail stores worldwide. Yvel’s innovative and contemporary jewels are manufactured at the Yvel Design Center, a 50,000-square foot complex in Motza, near Jerusalem.
of its kind in Israel, the Levys also receive some additional financial support for the program from friends around the world and a few humanitarian organizations. Students design and manufacture their own jewellery, branded under the name Megemeria, in a variety of motifs, with all profits generated by sales returning to the company to fund the continuation of the school. The collection features pendants, earrings, bracelets and rings made of 24K gold-plated brass, with prices ranging from US$40 to US$400.
Megemeria means “Genesis” in the Ethiopian native language of Amharic.
Orna and Isaac Levy, founders of Yvel.
Yet, Isaac and Orna’s mission in life goes far beyond their remarkable company, and begins with a dream of assisting new Ethiopian immigrants to integrate professionally and socially into Israeli society. In 2012, the couple realized their dream when they opened the Megemeria School of Jewelry and Art. Megemeria means “Genesis” in the native Ethiopian language of Amharic, an apt title since the school provides Ethiopian immigrants with a fresh new beginning by offering each student practical training in the art of jewellery manufacturing, as well as job placement assistance for graduates upon completion of the program. Located in the Yvel Design Center, this first-of-its-kind educational facility offers a unique opportunity to 21 Ethiopian students each year who receive professional hands-on training in the jewellery-related arts of goldsmithing, stonesetting, design, and manufacturing, as well as enrichment classes in Hebrew and math. Students
Remembering his personal difficulties relating to his immigration experience to Israel as a young boy from Argentina, Isaac says that he had “a strong desire to create a better way of embracing immigrants into Israeli life and culture.” He decided to concentrate his efforts on the vulnerable Ethiopian community, who often face multiple challenges when integrating into Israeli society. A remark from one of the students shows how the efforts have paid off: Isaac and Orna Levy try and tell us that we are equal in society, only now I can feel it. We will have a profession and can work and progress like everyone else. Our children will see this and be very happy for us.” Investing their own money into the project, the first corporate social project
Ethiopian students receive hands-on training in jewellery-related arts at the Megemeria School as well as help with job placement after graduation.
Megemeria jewellery is crafted by the students in 24K gold-plated brass in a variety of motifs.
The Megemeria collection, inspired by the immigrants’ personal and collective journey to Israel, is sold through Yvel distribution channels and at the Yvel Design Center. Visitors can observe the students in action as they learn the arts and crafts of jewelry making and design. Isaac and Orna have not only realized their dreams, but are dream-makers for hundreds of individuals and their families. In a world where so many are left with only the nightmares of trying to survive, this couple is the epitome of Megemeria, the Genesis of a new life. None of us can ever really know the type of impact we can have on another’s life until we try. But our actions—large or small—will have an impact, just as these awesome individuals have shown. And, it doesn’t take much. Even a smile can change a person’s day. Perhaps Stella McCarthy summed it up best: “Everyone can do simple things to make a difference. And every little bit does count.“ 47
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1. Swarovski marcasite and epoxy pendant by Monplaisir (Thailand). 2. Enamel, diamond, and gold pendant by Masriera (Spain). 3. Jade, diamond, and gold pendant by David Lin Jades (USA). 4. Silver and enamel brooch by Misis (Italy). 5. Silver and gold pendant by Jane A. Gordon (USA). 6. Silver charm by Rosato (Italy). 7. Porcelain statue by Lladro (Spain).
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14 8. Silver pendant by Kabana (USA). 9. Diamond, emerald, and gold pendant by MVee (Hong Kong). 10. Diamond and gold pendant by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy). 11. Gold, and diamond ring by Roberto Coin (Italy). 12. Multi-gemstone and gold brooch by Wendy Yue (Hong Kong). 13. Gold and diamond brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 14. Fully articulated gold “Colt� pendant with diamond hooves by Bielka (USA).
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BLACK & WHITE BEAUTIES One is the presence of all colour while the other is the absence of all colour. When combined together, however, black and white create beautiful jewellery crafted in gold, platinum, or silver, set with diamonds, sapphires, quartz, pearls, onyz, or jade. 5
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1. Silver and diamond ring by Eli Jewels (USA). 2. Gold and diamond earrings by Luca Carati (Italy). 3. Blackend gold and diamond earrings by Stephen Webster (Britain). 4. Gold and diamond pendant by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 5. Gold and diamond earrings by Coomi (USA). 6. Gold and diamond ring by Facet (Italy). 7. Silver and diamond earrings by Revabella (USA). 8. Enamel and silver bracelet by Metalsmiths Sterling (Canada). 9. Silver and enamel charm by Rosato (Italy). 10. Tourmalinated quartz by Tavares Gems (Brazil). 11. Outfit by Zimmermann (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
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12. Gold and diamond earrings by Union Suiza (Spain). 13. Gold, diamond, and pearl earrings by Reena Ahluwalia (Canada). 14. Gold, diamond, and pearl pendant by MVee (Hong Kong). 15. Gold and diamond ring by Andrew Meyer (USA). 16. Platinum and diamond ring by Jรถrg Heinz (Germany). 17. Gold and diamond ring by Bibigi (Italy). 18. Gold, diamond, and onyx ring by Gordon Aatlo Designs (USA). 19. Gold and diamond ring by Cris Porto (Brazil). 20. Gold and diamond ring by Sethi Couture (USA). 21. Gold and diamond ring by AS 29 (Belgium). 22. Pearl and diamond pendant by Antonini (Italy). 23. Outfit by Roberto Verino (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).
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DAZZLING DIAMONDS From rose cuts to brilliants and everything in between, diamonds come in all shapes and sizes, and, of course, colours. Fancy diamonds not only bring record prices at auction but are dazzling in a wide variety of colourful creations.
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1. Gold and diamond ring by Green G (Hong Kong). 2. Gold and diamond pendant by Artistry Limited (USA). 3. Yellow and white diamond and gold pendant by Sylvie (USA). 4. Blue and white diamond and gold pendant by Erica Courtney (USA). 5. Gold and diamond pendant by Samra (Dubai). 6. Gold and diamond earrings by Louis Vuitton (France). 7. Gold and diamond earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 8. Pink and white diamond and platinum ring by Jack Kelege (USA). 9. Pink and white diamond and gold ring by Claude Thibaudeau (Canada). 10. Gold and diamond ring by AcP/Quadamas (USA). 11. Gold and diamond ring by Alfieri & St. John (Italy). 12. Gold and diamond earrings by Gumuchian (USA). 13. Outfit by Bibhu Mohapatra (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
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14. Gold and diamond pendant by Jye Luxury Collection (USA). 15. Gold and diamond necklace by Bulgari (Italy). 16. Gold, diamond, sapphire, and ruby pendant by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 17. Contra Mundum Diamond Glove by Shaun Leane for Daphe Guiness (Britain). 18. Gold and diamond pendant by A.Link (USA). 19. Gold and diamond pendant by Michael M (USA). 20. Gold and rose-cut diamond ring by John Apel (USA). 21. Gold and diamond ring by Azuelos Jewelry (Morocco). 22. Yellow and white diamond and gold ring by Eclat Jewels (USA). 23. Pink and white diamond and gold ring by Christian Tse (USA). 24. Gold and diamond cuff by Messika (France). 25. Gold, diamond and emerald ring by Pasquale Bruni. (Italy). 26. Gold and diamond pendant by Mathon Paris (France). 27. Outfit by Tadashi Shoji (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC).
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T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
THE POWER OF GOLD
Renowned brand Jewelmer Joaillerie evokes the power of gold in its new S/S 2014 collections entitled Charleston, Guimard, C’est la Vie, and Madame de Pompadour, as well as in elegant additions to its Tropics, Rosone, Dolce Vita, Petite Fleur, and Via Rosa lines, all combining the opulence of 18K gold, diamonds, and precious gemstones with the glow of the rare and exquisite golden Philippine South Sea pearl. (Jewelmer.com)
Outfit by Son Jung Wan, S/S 2014 (photo: MBFW NYC).
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Outfit by Dolce & Gabbana, S/S 2014 (photo: AS).
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Brilliance Mee ts
march 27 – april 3, 2014
MARKETPLACE
DAZZLING DESIGNS IN VENICE AND VICENZA A World Heritage Site renowned for its beauty, architecture, and art, Venice was the perfect setting to host the prestigious by-invitation-only event, About J, last September. Following this elite exhibition was VicenzaOro Fall, the second in the city’s trilogy of trade fairs, which took place in an atmosphere of cautious optimism. By Cynthia Unninayar
V
enice’s luxurious Hilton Molino Stucky—a neo-gothic palace built at the end of the 19th century and located on the western side of Giudecca Island—served as the venue for this year’s About J, organized by the Fiera di Vicenza. The exclusive by-invitationonly event attracted some 200 highend retailers from 39 countries who came to see the products of 34 luxury Italian and international brands. Reactions to About J Among the exhibitors at About J was Marco Valente, president of the eponymous Italian brand whose cleverly designed and adjustable rings generated a lot of interest from buyers: “This is our first time at About J and we are having an excellent show.” Similar sentiments were echoed by another Italian designer, Federico Mariani whose trendy tassel jewellery did not go unnoticed: “We joined About J for the first time, and the show has been very good.” Strong interest was also reported by Ricardo Vianna, president of Vianna
Yellow and white diamond brooch by Picchiotti. 58
Brasil, one of two Brazilian brands that also attended the event last year: “We are delighted with the show, its setting, and the quality of the buyers.” The other Brazilian brand, Brumani, also enjoyed a good show. Its creative director, Eduardo Bruner, stated, “About J is an exciting show with a nice environment. Attendees were serious in doing business and finding new designers. We met old clients and opened some new accounts.” Platinum and rose gold earrings set with diamonds and conch shells by British brand SHO (About J).
A limited-edition elephant ring in white and black diamonds and jade by Roberto Coin.
First-time exhibitor Sarah Ho, of London-based SHO Jewellery also expressed her satisfaction with the show and the quality of buyers, while About J veteran, British designer Rodney Rayner, added, “The show has a great environment, qualified buyers, and has always been good for us.” Anna Gaia of Italian brand Utopia concurred with this general sentiment., adding, “About J is a great vehicle for making contacts. It is not a common type of show in Europe, and
could be expanded to other locations.” Utopia’s U.S. representative, Manuel Martin, agreed, “About J is a very valuable show because it gives brands and buyers the opportunity of meeting in an informal social setting.” From a buyer’s point of view, the show was also worthwhile as Jannie Iwema of Bonebakker Jeweliers in Amsterdam stated: “This is my second year at About J and again, it was a very good show. I found many interesting designers.”
An exotic long-finger ring in gold by Stephen Webster (About J).
Annamaria Cammilli celebrated the brand’s 30th anniversary with a collection of elegant flower rings and pendants in 18K rose gold and diamonds.
Diamond and gold charm by Rosato. Gold and ebony necklace by Oromalia.
Trendy tassel pendant made of brown and white diamonds by Mariani (About J).
Earrings in pink gold, brown sapphires, white and brown diamonds, and rose-cut red diamonds by Italian brand Brusi (About J).
Second-time attendee to the event, Camilo Lievano, of Bogota-based Lievano, echoed these comments: “I found About J to be a really good show this year, as it was last year. I always find something new.” Lisa Glynn of Pennsylvania-base Diane Glynn Distinctive Jewelry, commented: “About J has been a really good—and enjoyable—show, with lots of new creations.” First time attendee, Adriana Cauduro of Brazilbased Adriana Cauduro Joalheira, explained: “This is my first About J and I can honestly say that the whole environment is excellent. I appreciate the show a lot.” Another first-timer to the event was Irina Metikhova, of Kazakhstan-based Arezzo Jewellery Boutique: “I found About J to be so very interesting with so many good designers. The only problem was that the time was too short.” On to VicenzaOro Fall Held immediately after About J, VicenzaOro’s 1200 exhibitors from 30 countries welcomed more than 18,000 buyers, including 7,160 overseas visitors from 111 nations, notably
Rings that can imperceptibly change size, crafted in gold, diamonds, and rubies by Marco Valente (About J).
the Euro Zone, Central and Eastern Europe, the UAE, Saudi Arabia, North America, and Asia, especially China. According to fair officials, the “return” of many Italian retailers was an encouraging sign, perhaps signalling “the much-desired end of the most critical phase of the recession.” They went on to add, “For the first time, after two years of negative signals, the second quarter of 2013 showed a positive result for Italian jewellery exports (ISTAT data) that have grown in terms of both value (+6%) and volume (+2.6%) over the same period last year. Particularly significant is the growth in exports to the
Hammered gold and diamond bracelet by Vendorafa.
United States (+12% in value) and to the UAE (+32% in value).” The Fiera di Vicenza, organizer of About J and the trilogy of VicenzaOro fairs, continues its efforts to help the Italian jewellery industry by strengthening its network of international partnerships. Among them are: an agreement with the Hong Kong Trade Development Council in view of increasing the Italian presence at the March 2014 edition of the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show; a new partnership with the Armenian Jewellery Association, which owns the leading international jewellery exhibition in Armenia; and the participation of VicenzaOro and T-Gold International in Dubai International Jewellery Week, seen as particularly important since the UAE is the second largest export market for Italian jewellery. Regarding reactions to the Fiera di Vicenza’s activities in promoting the sector, its president, Paolo Mantovani commented, “In this period, I have noted the satisfaction of a large part of the exhibitors regarding the good spirit in the business. The buyers who came to VicenzaOro were motivated 59
MARKETPLACE Titanium rings by Zancan. Diamond and platinum ring by I Gregori.
Double hoop earrings in diamonds and gold by Zydo.
and pragmatic, and I am convinced that the range they found lived up to their expectations. Now we must concentrate on the next dates, refining our organization and our services to make them increasingly orientated towards customer satisfaction.” The reaction of a retailer from Canada, Anita Malbranck of the Diamond Gallery, regarding the range of products, echoed Montovani’s comments: “This is my first time at VicenzaOro and I find the selection of jewellery to be almost overwhelming. It is very fashion-forward and unique, with pieces that will appeal to my clients.” Peter Stravrianidis of New Jersey-based Venus Jewelers, was also a first-time visitor and agreed that “VicenzaOro is an excellent show for his needs.” Among the other activities sponsored by the Fiera di Vicenza was a preview of the TrendBook 2015+ by Paola DeLuca, creative director of TrendVision, the fair’s independent research centre. She presented an overall view of the global jewellery market, indicating that the U.S. market has matured but remains strong, while Europe is weakening, and then added that Asian markets continue to drive global sales. DeLuca went on to discuss five types of consumers and products that reflect these types based on her research. In terms of Italian design, a wide range was present at VicenzaOro and about J, as it is every year. 60
Ring in amethyst, citrine, gold, and diamonds by Sanalitro. “Claire de Lune” earrings in Tahitian pearls, white gold, and diamonds by Utopia.
Changes for 2014 Three years ago, the Fiera di Vicenza embarked upon an ambitious €32 million program to update the fair and its venue. “By 2014, our structure will be completely updated,” said Montavani. “The project is in an advanced stage of execution and includes a new pavilion, space and equipment redevelopment of the Congress Centre, a comprehensive reassessment of layout, logistics support, and services (specifically, food services), a reorganization of access routes, and a new 600-space parking lot.” One of the more prominent changes will be the creation of “The Boutique Show.” Mantonvani explained that this special section is “part of an effort to reorganize the flow of merchandise and visitors. The Boutique will incorporate Concept Store proposals to offer exhibiting companies integrated exhibition options, as well as set-up, assembly, disassembly, and storage solutions.
Jewellery crafted from such gems as the bright blue hemimorphite combined with opal, blue topaz, peridot, and diamonds, by U.S.A. designer Kara Ross (About J).
Other events planned for 2014 are a “Speed Greet” area, dedicated to fostering networking among selected exhibitors and worldwide retailers and buyers, and the inauguration of the “Museo del Gioiello” in the centre of Vicenza that will host cultural events, workshops, and other activities. VicenzaOro Winter 2014 will be held January 18-23; Spring 2014 from May 10 to 13; and Fall 2014 from September 6 to 10. (Vicenzaoro.org, aboutjevent.it)
SEPTEMBER
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
3,600 exhibitors from 48 countries & regions Over 52,000 buyers from 154 countries & regions Up to 135,000 square metres of exhibition space Over
Theme Pavilion Highlights: The FINE DESIGN PAVILION hosts around 70 internationally renowned jewellery companies, bringing to the city exquisite jewellery set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejewelled watches, invaluable antique and vintage jewellery and exclusive one-offs from around the world. The FINE GEM PAVILION is dedicated to the world’s finest loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Over 50 esteemed exhibitors from around the world will display a variety of loose gems of the highest quality. The HONG KONG PREMIER PAVILION is the perfect setting to show what Hong Kong has to offer to the world’s luxury markets as a jewellery powerhouse. It features over 40 of the city’s brightest brands in a prestigious and elegant setting befitting their exquisite masterpieces. The INTERNATIONAL PREMIER PAVILION features over 60 prestigious international jewellery companies presenting prominent jewellery brands and their latest collections.
Theme pavilions housed in two world-class venues: AsiaWorld-Expo • Gemstones • Diamonds • Pearls • Packaging, Tools & Equipment • Fine Gem Pavilion
AsiaWorld-Expo $LUSRUW ([SUHVV
Packaging, Tools & Equipment
Diamonds Halls 9 &11
Hall 11
Hall 9
Diamonds Halls 5 & 7
Pearls Hall 1
Gemstones
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre • Hong Kong Pavilion • Hong Kong Premier Pavilion • International Premier Pavilion • Fine Design Pavilion • Silver Jewellery • Jadeite Gallery • Designer Avenue • Jewellery Accessories • Pearl Jewellery & Finished Jewellery • Asian Fine Jewellery • International Fine Jewellery • Antique & Vintage Jewellery
Hall 2
Fine Gem Pavilion
Halls 3, 6, 8 & 10
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Jewellery Accessories Hall 5D
Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery & Finished Jewellery Hall 5E
Silver Jewellery Grand Foyer
Silver Jewellery Mezzanine 4 International Premier Hong Kong Pavilion Halls 3C, 3D & 3E Pavilion Halls 3B & 3C Designer Avenue Mezzanine 2
Grand Hall
Jadeite Gallery
Asian Fine Jewellery
Halls 5B & 5C
Fine Design Pavilion
Hong Kong Pavilion Hall 1 Concourse
Halls 1A, 1B & 1C
Expo Drive Entrance
Halls 5F & 5G
International Fine Jewellery Halls 3F & 3G
Antique & Vintage Jewellery,
Hong Kong Premier Pavilion Halls 1D & 1E
Harbour Road Entrance
Convention Hall
The
WORLD’S NUMBER ONE Fine Jewellery Event SEPTEMBER Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
15 - 19 September 2014 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong
Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging
17 - 21 September 2014 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre
Fine Finished Jewellery
UBM Asia Ltd Tel: (852) 2585 6179 / 2516 1677 Fax: (852) 3749 7319 Email: salesjgf-hk@ubm.com
www.JewelleryNetAsia.com
M A R K E T P L A C E
THAILAND LOOKS TO THE FUTURE Looking to the future was the unofficial theme of the 52nd Annual Bangkok Gem & Jewelry Fair held in September at the Impact Exhibition and Convention Center. By Karen Nuckols
O
rganized by the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) in cooperation with the Department of International Trade Promotion of the Thai Ministry of Commerce, the fair is one of the top five largest gem and jewellery shows in the world. Some 40,000 visitors and buyers from 125 countries visited the show to see the products displayed by the event’s 1,800 exhibitors. The majority of exhibitors were from Thailand, and many featured silver products. Not surprising since Thailand is the world’s largest producer of silver jewellery. The fair again showcased a special section of silver jewellery, with designs ranging from simple sterling silver earrings to elaborate gemstone-studded necklaces. Also featured were one-offs in sterling, such as the pieces sold at the stand of Thai brand, Goldlip. Spokesperson Petra Wolbeek noted she had an excellent show, mostly because all of Goldlip’s jewellery is one-of-a-kind. “People crowded in the first day to get the best choices, “ she said. The Design Pavilion, located in the show lobby, was also a popular destination for buyers. The theme this year was “Technology Affecting Nature.” Samai Tocharoen, Director of Public Relations for TGJTA, elaborated: “People of today perceive and consume nature that co-exists with science and technology, creating the next evolution of nature.” The pavilion was co-sponsored by the TGJTA and the Department of Industrial Promotion of the Thai Ministry of Industry. In addition to silver, the second largest category of exhibitor was dedicated to gemstones, which were abun64
The ribbon-cutting ceremony opened the 52nd Annual Bangkok Gem & Jewelry Fair.
dant. Buyers could find everything from melee to large stones of every description. Attractive Buyer Incentives The fair’s organizers have established a number of on-going initiatives to increase the participation of international vendors and buyers at future events while, at the same time, making it easier for the jewellery trade in Thailand to do business abroad. First and foremost of these initiatives is the waiving of the 20 percent import duty on items brought into Thailand for display and sale at the fair. The Bangkok fair is one of only two
The crowds wait to enter the Bangkok Gem & Jewelry fair on the first day.
Silver pendant in blue agate druzy, blue topaz, and blue and pink sapphires, with black rhodium and 22K gold plating by Goldlip.
duty-free shows in Asia. Introduced in August, there is a 15-day grace period before and after the start of the fair for products to be brought into the country. These include precious stones, pearls, and metals, coins, and imitation jewellery. Somchai Pornchindarak, President of the TGJTA, explained, “For the first time ever, our international exhibitors are able to offer for sale their imported gems and jewellery products at duty-free prices.” Foreign exhibitors
Connecting Global Competence
February 14 – 17, 2014 MESSE MÜNCHEN INTERNATIONAL INHORGENTA.COM Inhorgenta-Blog.com
M A R K E T P L A C E
Gemstone and silver earrings by Beauty Gems.
Diamond jewellery by Mahallati.
can now also sell their goods at lower prices and Thai vendors can keep prices low thus providing buyers from around the world more purchasing power at the fair. Suttipong Damrongsakul, CEO of the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, further expanded upon the importance of waiving the import duty, “We want to make the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair more international by having more exhibitors from other countries. Of course, this will attract more buyers to our show because they will have a wider choice of goods.“ Exhibitors agreed that the duty-free policy would help increase the number of both buyers and vendors at the fair. Mohammed Mahallati, COO of Mahallati Co., Ltd., a diamond jewellery manufacturer based in Bangkok, stated, “The 20 percent duty free policy is a good start to help grow the show. It gives buyers more incentive to come to Thailand and not just attend the Hong Kong show. Any time you do something to help the customer, more will come.” The second important initiative aimed at strengthening Thailand’s position as a gem and jewellery hub was the Zero VAT Pavilion where buyers were exempt from paying the seven percent value-added tax on rough
to selecting those to visit. At the same time, vendors get the chance to understand buyers’ needs and prepare offers in advance. A fourth incentive to attract overseas buyers was the offer of a free three-day, two-night hotel accommodation for first-time visitors, which was appreciated by those who took advantage of it. “This was a particularly good incentive,” says Avi Layani of Topaz B.K.K. Co. LTD. “We need new buyers since we have a lot of merchandise to offer here.”
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A variety of earring styles in 925 sterling silver, from classic to whimsical, by Topaz B.K.K. Co.
gems and raw materials imported into the country for manufacturing. The third factor to enhance the popularity of the fair was the continuation of the Business Matching Service. This service helps foreign buyers locate and communicate with exhibitors before the fair. Once at the fair, buyers have the opportunity to preview suppliers’ profiles and products prior
Multi-gem necklace by Blue River.
Importance of ASEAN+6 The second annual ASEAN+6 gem and jewellery presidents’ summit was held during the fair. It was moderated by Suttipong Damrongsakul who announced a sub-committee comprised of representatives from Malaysia, Myanmar, Vietnam, Thailand, Hong Kong, India, and South Korea that would follow up on various agendas discussed at the two summits. “As the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) opens in 2015, it will be a new market of 600 million people… with a very high capacity for the regional gems and jewellery industry,“ said Damrongsakul, who added that this market would help shore up lagging sales in Europe and the United
M A R K E TP L A C E Rubies by TC Mining.
Sapphire, diamond, and ruby rings by Pranda.
Diamond and sapphire earrings by Beverley K.
States. He went on to add that, as part of AEC, the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry fair could become a very effective link to the world and vice versa. Of special interest at the fair was Pranda’s celebration of its 40th Anniversary. In honour of the event, the Thai brand sponsored an evening event in which employees demonstrated their design skills known as the Pranda Process, the core values instilled in and reflected by all employees. Also on exhibit was jewellery from a number of the brands for which Pranda manufactures. “For the past 40 years, the Pranda Group has accomplished the impossible in the jewellery world. We are able to mass produce fine quality jewellery products that were once achieved only through the handmade process by highly-skilled master goldsmiths,” observed Mr. Prida Tiasuwan, Chairman of Pranda Group. “By being able to meet the global mass demand for consistence in high quality jewellery, we are truly the master of mass craftsmanship and have changed the old perception that commercialized jewellery could never be beautiful and long lasting.” The branding of Thai gems and jewellery included the release of an updated edition of “Thailand’s Best Gems & Jewelry Guide Book,” a comprehensive directory of members of the Jewel Fest Club (JFC). Founded
Mumbai, India. “The beautiful designs also tell us about the trends. Compared to other countries, Thailand offers a better opportunity for us to meet the good sellers and buyers. Basically, if you come here for four days, you can find everything.” Ms. Maret Viljoen, owner of Viljoen Juweliers Co., Ltd in South Africa was thrilled to be at the fair. “I am very excited about the event. It’s a good place to explore things from the rest of the world, an eye opener for the rest of the industry.” “We come here because we want to see what’s happening inside Thailand and get good trade information on stone vendors that are only available in Thailand,” said John Croston, Vice President of Manufacturing for David Yurman in Hong Kong. “Here you have certain specialties and certain cuts that are only available here. Thailand is the capital for sapphire and corundum. Not being here is a mistake because Thailand is different from some other nations. It continues to expand the labour pool with training and apprentice programs that really help the jewellery industry.” As various government agencies and the fair’s organizers continue to work together to help Thailand look to the future, the fair will continue to grow. Next year’s 53rd edition will be held February 25 to March 1, 2014.
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Silver and Swarovski Marcasite pendant by Monplaisir.
in 1997, the JFC has the support of the TGJTA and the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Its objectives are to: promote customers’ confidence in Thailand’s gem and jewellery trade; set the standards of retail business in the industry; educate consumers; and solve the problems caused by the fraudulent practices of some retailers. Consumers can look for the Jewelry Fest Club logo in shop windows to be assured of a satisfactory buying experience. Buyers’ Comments “This event is really wonderful to see,” said Hatim Motiwala, owner of Burhani Jewellers Dazzling Creations and Maimoon Collections Co., Ltd in
Carved lion sculpture by KdeCraft.
(bangkokgemsfair.com)
Today, more than any other time, adding colored gemstones and cultured pearls to your business is important in improving profits and distinguishing yourself in the marketplace. But where do you begin to buy smart and buy safe? Rely on an AGTA Member. Our Members annually sign the strictest Code of Ethics that signifies their commitment to maintaining the industry’s highest standards and they fully disclose gem enhancements. At the AGTA Gem Fair ™ Tucson, in the secure comfort of the Tucson Convention Center, you will find the highest quality, best value and broadest selection. You’ll connect with US- and Canadian-based professionals plus attend seminars and workshops that will educate and inspire. Look to an AGTA Member to help you find your true color at the 2014 AGTA GemFair Tucson.
Show/Hotel Information: AGTA.org
AGTA Office: 800-972-1162
M A R K E TP L A C E
INTERGEM PROCLAIMS ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL SHOW Intergem 2013 opened to promising crowds on October 1 in Idar-Oberstein, Germany and fulfilled this promise of success to the very end. By Karen Nuckols
F
or the first time, Intergem began on a Thursday and closed on Sunday rather than opening Friday and ending on Monday, which seemed to please the visiting crowds. Kai-Ewe Hille, Intergem’s managing director, stated that about 3200 visitors and buyers attended the 29th edition of the show, which was about the same as last year. Given the economic climate in some parts of the world, Hille considered this to be an excellent turnout.
One of the larger pieces of opal found at Pedro Segundo, Brazil by Brasil Opal.
During the show, one of the more inspirational talks was given by Sir Gabi Tolkowsky, famed diamond cutter. In a very philosophical approach, Tolkowsky began with the everchanging clouds, and continued to observations about humanity, love, and friendship, before finally turning to diamonds. He mused that a diamond reflects his soul, and while perfect diamonds are something to behold, those with inclusions—imperfections to many—are one-of-a-kinds, never to be repeated by nature. 70
For the 139 exhibitors at Intergem, reflections of their soul were seen not only in diamonds, but also in pearls and gemstones of all sizes and descriptions. At this show, they speak to the designers and to those selling facetted gems, pearls, strands of beads, and objets d’art in a way that is different from other fairs. There is a passion among the exhibitors that was reflected in Tolkowsky’s talk, especially among the 54 local exhibitors who have long family histories in the gem and jewellery business. Constantin Wild of the company, W. Constantin Wild, spoke of “Great Temptations” which evoke the stones he presented for the first time in his premium line of “more than just rare.” He explains: “More and more gemstone lovers and women who wear jewellery wish they had this kind of very large, unusual, high-quality stone. Coloured gemstones like these are very rare and mostly unique: the larger the stone, the smaller the chance that similar specimens exist. That also makes these thoroughly individual jewellery and collector’s items very suitable as secure investments.” Wild went on to add that the demand for rare stones is growing at a rapid rate. Wild hails from a centuries-old dynasty of goldsmiths and gemstone cutters, and now manages W. Constantin Wild & Co., founded in 1847. He is the fourth generation of the family to operate the business, and has had an intimate knowledge of the gemstone market for more than 25 years.
Opal ring by Andrea Sohne.
Jochen Knitte of Brasil Opal displayed a number of opal specimens from the Pedro Segundo area in Brazil. His stones were the only opals from Brazil, and he mentioned that the German dealers had never seen anything like them. Opals in this area of Brazil were discovered in 1989. The rough pieces he was showing were found in March 2012, the largest alluvial deposit find in over 20 years. Knigge said this opal has a very low water content, so is perfect for doublets and watch faces. Wild & Petsch’s Alexander Wild responded to a question about the younger generations wanting to continue in the gemstone and jewellery tradition that goes back over 500 years in the Idar-Oberstein region. He said he is not concerned, that there are still children, both men and women,
Green amber by Hermann Grimm KG.
M A R K E T P L A C E who are continuing family businesses. He also noted that Hong Kong and Intergem were good shows for him, since he carries a wide variety of high-quality stones, and that customers know he can get what they need. Achim Grimm of Hermann Grimm KG who runs the business with his son, Sebastian, sells a unique variety of cut stones at all price points. One of his favourites is green amber, which he says he will be selling again in Tucson in February. He is putting together a large inventory of stones for that show. He also was pleased with sales in Hong Kong and at Intergem.
An array of colourful gemstones displayed by Rolf Goerlitz.
Andrea Sohne spoke about her growing jewellery design business. “It used to be just Christmas sales, but now people buy when they want to. The last two years have been very good.” She attributes her success to her very wearable but unique one-of-a-kind designs. Konrad Henn of Karl Feller, stated “With the fair starting on Thursday (Reunification Day) this year instead of Friday, it made it very easy for jewellers, goldsmiths, and others to visit.” He added that he saw buyers from Ireland, England, Austria, and Asia, including a large Indian company. Henn also said three representatives from Cartier visited at his invitation. Jorn Petterson of Adamas Smykke-design, a jewellery store owner and his wife from Bamberg, Norway were enthusiastic about their first-time visit to the show. “We bought some bread and butter stones, plus some spice,” he smiled. During the coming year, the fair office will certainly be abuzz with plans for the milestone 30th edition, which will be held October 3 - 6, 2014. Puzzle watch by August Veeck. (intergem.com) 72
Sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre
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Exhibitors : 85 Antwerp diamond companies.
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Visitors : jeweller retailers, designers, manufacturers. By invitation only.
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www.antwerpdiamondfair.com
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MARKETPLACE
HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR ANOTHER RECORD YEAR Split between two venues, the 31st edition of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair attracted a record crowd of nearly 53,000 buyers from 154 countries and regions. By Karen Nuckols
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ith the waterfront Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center (HKCEC) serving as the base for finished jewellery and AsiaWorld Expo (AWE) near the airport hosting the exhibitors of loose stones, pearls, components, and packaging, this edition was the largest in the fair’s history with a combined area of 135,000 square metres, and also attracted the largest vistor attendance ever. Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia, explained the reason for this remarkable result: “Given its strong global reputation, participating in the September Fair has become a tradition for serious international jewellers. The September Fair offers virtually every product in all major categories in the gemstone and jewellery industry. The latest edition proved once again to be the ideal platform for conducting business, gathering market intelligence and networking.” In terms of sales, Lau went on to say, “Demand for diamonds and gemstones was robust. The 6.8 percent growth in visitor numbers from Asia compared to last year’s edition tells us that the region continues to be the engine of growth for the luxury jewellery market. Specifically, the number of buyers from the Chinese mainland was up 11 percent and from India up 11.6 percent. We also noticed growth in the number of buyers from other Asian nations such as Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam.” Even with a fair as successful as this, the show organizers realize how important it is to offer initiatives to
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Gold and diamond rings by BK Jewellery.
assist visitors by facilitating their buying experience. This year UBM introduced the Fair Mobile App, which, according to Jime Essink, President and CEO of UBM Asia, Ltd., includes, “interactive floor plans and the latest information about the fair, making it easier for buyers to find their way around the two venues and thus plan their visits more efficiently.” Building on the success of the Trade Buyer ID project launched in
Gold and diamond jewellery by Continental Jewellery.
2012, UBM lets buyers with the Trade Buyer ID card enter any of its fairs without registering. Over 10,000 jewellery buyers from 92 countries hold this Gold and diamond “Bamboo” ring ID card. by Green G. Other new features included the introduction of the diamond auction organized by the Alrosa Group, Russia’s leading diamond company. The pearl auctions continued as well. Adding to the international flavour of the show, the Japan Pearl Promotion Society and the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association hosted special events in its “Think Pearls, Think Japan” initiative centring on Japanese pearls. Happy about the success of these events, Angela Chien, Manager of Shinyu Co. Ltd., in China stated, “The September fair’s status as a major B2B event makes it the ideal platform for the ‘Think Pearls, Think of Japan’ campaign. It successfully drew people’s attention to pearls from Japan. We will participate again in 2014.” At AWE, gemstone dealers reported a strong demand from China for tourmaline, tanzanite, and emeralds. “Since the price of tourmaline is quite high now, they are opting to go for stones of 2 to 3 carats,” said Nirmal Bardiya, president of RMC Gems India. Previously, Chinese buyers wanted larger stones. Other vendors reported the trend towards smaller, high-quality
Ruby and diamond tassel earrings by MVee.
Quartz and diamond ring by Forever Jewels.
Gemstone and diamond ring by Peter Lam.
stones as well. Popular stones sought by buyers from other parts of the world included garnets, blue topaz, and Paraiba tourmaline. Bardiya noted that because of the scarcity of Brazilian Paraiba, buyers are taking African material, but even that is becoming scarce. Sudhir Jain, Vice President of FEI in New York noted, “We met some target overseas buyers from Europe, India, and the United States, and did good business.” Sophie Jin, a representative of Drybooms Diamonds in Belgium said there was a higher demand for diamonds compared to last year. “We met a number of target buyers from Asia, especially from China,” she said. At HKCEC, a wide range of jewellery styles was available, from the simple to lavish. Nature influenced many designs, including enamel butterflies from Commelin and Mathon, both of France, and gold and white diamond butterfly earrings from Unicorn Jewelry Design of Hong Kong. Gwennie Tam’s nature-inspired jewellery included a spouting whale ring of opals and diamonds. Traffic was heavy in the Hong Kong Pavilion but somewhat slower at the Premier Pavilion. In spite of this, some exhibitors said they did brisk business. Frank Ferrari, International Sales
Gemstone and diamond pendant by E&V Jewellery.
Officer for Jewelmer, was one of the happy exhibitors. “The September Fair is one of the world’s best jewellery trade fairs. It is a great platform to promote our brand,” he said. “This year, our booth gained lots of attention and attracted many potential buyers from around the world, particularly Australia, China, Turkey, and Russia.” Ingo Henn of Henn of London also was pleased with traffic: “We met a lot of serious buyers from around the world, particularly from Asia.” Hiroko Saito, of Hiroko Saito in Japan, agreed with that assessment: “We are happy with the result of our participation because we met our target buyers from China and Hong Kong.” Buyers’ Comments First-time fair visitors and veterans alike shared their experiences at the show: “Hong Kong is an important jewellery trading hub and the September fair is a huge sourcing platform
with good exhibitor quality and product variety. The show is fabulous, exiting and interesting. I met many new suppliers from China, India, Hong Kong, and Thailand,” noted Esther Fortunoff, President of Fortunoff Fine Jewelery in the USA. First-time visitor Miho Aizawa, Manager of Chantecler in Japan had this to say: “It is a very big and well organized show, and the quality of exhibitors and products is very good. The fair’s mobile app is very user friendly and helped me find suppliers easily. I will visit again next year.” Eighth-time visitor, Roland Noser, chief buyer of pearls and international production manager for Bucherer in Switzerland, commented, “It is a highly influential B2B jewellery fair and is well organized. The quality of exhibitors is good, and the product range is wide. I upgraded my badge to a Trade Buyer ID this year as it is very convenient and environment friendly. I will visit again, definitely.” A sampling of some of the talented Asian jewellery designers and brands can be seen on these pages. The 32rd edition of the fair will be held from September 15-21, 2014 with the AWE section taking place September 15 to 19 and the HKCEC from September 17 to 21. 75
MARKETPLACE
Pendant made of pyrite, red leather strands, and gold chains by Vasundhara.
Jade and diamond necklace by TTF Haute Joaillerie.
South Sea golden pearl and diamond necklace by Jewelmer.
Gold and diamond ring by Elan.
JNA Awards Established by Letitia Chow, founder of JNA and 2013 chair of the judging panel, the second annual JNA Awards dinner was held at the Grand Hyatt in Hong Kong on September 12. Nearly 90 entries were received from companies in 13 Asian countries and regions. From those entries a short list of 39 companies in 14 categories emerged, which were then featured in a glossy publication, “Jewellery Industry Best Practices,” given to all dinner guests. According to Wolfram Diener, senior vice president of UBM Asia, “Our list of honourees serves as a testament to the fact that Asia’s jewellery industry is full of thriving and innovative businesses and individuals with diverse talents. The quality of the entries has been outstanding, and it is an honour for UBM Asia to work closely with them to further develop the jewellery industry and market in Asia. We are delighted to extend our congratulations to them all.” JNA’s highest honour, the Lifetime Achievement Award, went to Leung Sik Wah for his exceptional contribu76
tion to the jewellery and gemstone industry. Leung, who is based in Hong Kong, was instrumental in establishing Hong Kong as a pearl auction hub. Among his other achievements, Leung is the Honorary Life President of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, China and Chairman of the Hong Kong Tourism Board’s Quality Tourism Services Scheme, established to promote integrity and transparency in retail jewellery in Hong Kong. “Hong Kong has not only become a shopper’s paradise for jewellery retail, but also a manufacturing and trading powerhouse. It is also one of Asia’s brightest diamond and pearl trading centres,” Leung commented. “The JNA Awards has a positive impact on the industry and I feel blessed to be a part of such a prestigious endeavour.” The Outstanding Contribution of the Year Award went to Wallace Chan, a celebrated jewellery artist, whose outstanding work spans 40 years. Chan is internationally recognized as one of several Chinese jewellery artists. He pushes the creative boundaries of design and jewellery making. He
Opal and diamond “Spouting Whale” by Gwenie Tam.
was the only Chinese jewellery artist to be invited to the 26th Biennale de Antiquaires in Paris in 2012, where he showed his collection of one-of-a-kind luxury pieces set with imperial jade, diamonds, and coloured stones. “I am delighted and honoured to have been selected for the prestigious award,” he said. “This recognition serves as a reminder of my glorious journey in the industry.” Some of the other award winners were: Jewelmer International Corporation and Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt Ltd for Employer of the Year; TTF Haute Joaillerie for Outstanding Enterprise of the Year, Mainland China; Dharmanandan Diamonds Pvt Ltd and Pranda Group for Sustainability Initiative of the Year; and Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd for Retailer of the Year. The complete list can be seen at jnaawards.com.
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EDITORIAL & ADVERTISERS’ INDEX 2(X)IST Watches 30 A & Furst 22, 33 A.Link 53 Absolute OroAfrica 18 AcP by Quadamas 31, 52 Adami & Martucci 38 AG Design 17 AGTA Gem Fair 69 Al Coro 39 Alessio Boschi 26 Alfieri & St. John 52 Alice K 37 Amali 19 Amberif 80 Ambermix 25 Andrea Candela 17 Andrea Sohne 70 Andrew Meyer 51 Annamaria Cammilli 59 Antonini 51 Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair 73 Anzie 39 Armadani 35 Artistry Limited 52 Arunashi 26 AS29 23, 51 August Veeck 72 Autore 20 Azuelos Jewelry 53 Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair 71 Bapalal Keshavlal 4, 5, 50, 52, 53, 20 Barbara Heinrich 26 BaselWorld 56, 57 Bavna 35 Bayco 22 Beauty Gems 66 Bellarri 30 Bellon 36 Bergio 19 Beverley K 68 Bibigi 51 Bielka 49 Bizzotto Gioielli 17, 39 B K Jewellery 27, 74 Blue River 66 Bohemme 21, 38 Bonato 39 Brasil Opal 70 Brusi 59 Bulgari 22, 53 Carelle 26 Carla Amorim 19, 22 Caroline C 20, 25, 28, 29, 37 Casato Roma 35 Chad Allison 20 Charles Garnier 19 Charles Krypell 19 Chaumet 35 Cheté 19 Christian Tse 53 Christine Hafermalz-Wheeler 23 Clara Williams 22 Claude Thibaudeau 52 Clementina Duarte 32 Cody Opals 26 Coge 37 Color Story 34 Commelin 25 Constantin Wild 30, 37, 72 Continental Jewellery 74 Coomi 50 Cordova 19 Cornelia Goldsmith 17 Costis 32 Couture Show 61 Cris Porto 51 Crivelli 38 Dada Arrigoni 20, 23, 36 Damiani 20 David Lin 36, 48 Delance 33, 43 Denise James 22, 32 Denny Wong 34 Different Gems 32 Dreamtime 26 E & V Jewellery 33, 75 Eclat Jewels 53 Effy 34 Eichorn 34 Elan 76 Eli Jewels 38, 50 Elke Berr 34 Entice by KGK 22 Erica Courtney 36, 52 Faberge 22
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Facet 19, 50 Federica Rettore 18 Fondation Haute Horlogerie 81 Forever Jewels 75 FR Hueb 23 Garavelli 19, 36 Garrard 22, 23, 24 Gavello 34, 37 Gem Platinum 31 Gemfields 9 Gemveto 25 Georland 25 Giovanni Ferraris 33, 49 GL Group 24 Goldiaq Creation 17 Goldlip 64 Gordon Aatlo Designs 51 Graff 22, 31 Green G 52, 74 Gumuchian 30, 52 Gwennie Tam 25, 76 H.Weiss 24, 38 Hellmuth 21 Hermann Grimm 72 Hilat 30 HK Jewellery & Gem Fair 62, 63 HK Jewellery & Jade Mfgr Assn 77 HK Trade Devel. Council 67 Horsecka 21 I Gregori 60 Iladro 48 Imogen Belfield 23 InBar 38 Inhorgenta Munich 65 Isabelle Langlois 36 Ivanka Trump 19 J Jewels 39 Jack Kelege 16, 32, 52, 53 Jackie Aiche 35 Jacqueline Diani 35 James Kaya 34 Jane A. Gordon 48 Jewelmer 19, 24, 45, 54, 55, 82 JFA Designs 39 Jochen Pohl C.I, 10, 11, 35, 39 John Apel 53 Joia 17 Jolie B. Ray 22 Jörg Heinz 51 Just Jules 20 Jye Luxury Collection 12, 13, 30, 53 Kabana 32 Kabana 49 Kara Ross 37, 60 Katherine Jetter 26 Katie Decker 22, 33 Kavant 17, 18 KdeCraft 68 Kendra Scott 38 Kwiat 35 La Reina 34 Lafonn 19 Le Vian 32 Leaderline 19, 30 Leyla Abdolahi 20 Lithos Jewelry 42, 43 Loretta Castoro 33 Louis Fiessler 17 Louis Vuitton 52 Luca Carati 25, 50 Lydia Courteille 21 Madstone 21 Magerit 14, 15, 25, 38 Mahallati 66 Marco Bicego 17 Marco Valente 59 Margery Hirschey 26 Mariani 59 Marina B 24 Mark Schneider 32 Masriera 48 Mathon Paris 25, 37, 53 Mattiolli 39 Mazza 22, 34 MCL 36 Megemeria 47 Meissen Joaillerie 30 Messika 53 Metalsmiths Sterling 50 Michael Endlich 26 Michael M 53 Mimi 36 Misaki 25 Misis 25, 48
Monplaisir 48, 68 Moraglione 33 Mousson Atelier 7, 37 Muzo International 40, 41, C.IV MVee 26, 49, 51, 75 Nanis 31 Nikos Koulis 20 Nina Runsdorf 18 Noudar 23 Nouvelle Bague 32 Old World Chain 32 Olivier de Saintloup 21 Oly Lynggaard 31 Omi Privé 30 Oro Trend 25 Oromalia 59 Oscar Heyman 49 Palmiero 17 Pamela Froman 23 Pamela Huizenga 18, 26, 37, 38 Parulina 23 Pasquale Bruni 53 Paula Crevoshay 25, 26 Pearce Design 18 Penny Preville 34 Peter Lam 75 Picchiotti 58 Pippo Perez 21 Ponte Vecchio 38, 53 Pranda 19, 68 Raboud 78, 79 Rahaminov 53 31 Ramon 2, 3, 19, 24, 31 Rebecca 24, 33 Reena Ahluwalia 51 Revabella 51 Rina Limor 18 Rivoir 36 Robert Wan 35 Roberto Coin 38, 49, 58 Rodney Rayner 31 Rolf Goerlitz 72 Rosato 48, 50, 59 Rosy Blue 44, C.III Royal India 22 Rudolf Friedman 22 Samra 52 Sanalitro 60 Sethi Couture 35, 51 Sharart 26, 35 SHO 58 Sicis Watches 21, 35 Sifani 19 Sillam Jewelry 22, 25 Simons Jewelers 46 Speake-Marin 21 Staurino 25 Stephen Webster 22, 23, 50, 58 Sun Jewels 18 Suna Bros. 26 Susan Wheeler 26 Sutra 23 Suzy Landa 26 Swarovski Gems 35 Sylvie 31, 52 Syna 30 Tavares Gems 50 TC Mining 68 The Fifth Season 19 Thistle & Bee 31, 37 Ti Sento 33 Tirisi Jewelry 35 Toby Pomeroy 18 Todd Reed 18 Topaz B.K.K. 66 Tresor 17 TTF Haute Joaillerie 76 Union Suiza 51 Utopia 60 Valery Demure 23 Vasundhara 76 Vendorafa 59 Vianna Brasil 20, 36, 39 Victor Mayer 38 Victor Veylan 24, 26 Vida 21 Vincent Agor 18 Waskoll 22 Wendy Yue 21, 49 Wild & Petsch 33 Yoko London 17 Yvel 47 Zancan 60 Zorab 24 Zydo 60
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THE ULTIMATE ORIENT THE QUEST FOR THE PERFECT PEARL One of the most fascinating autobiographies of the year,, Jacques Branellec’s The Ultimate Orient – The Quest for the Perfect Pearl is a story unlike any other,, filled with extraordinary adventures in extraordinary places that few can ever even dream about. By Cynthia Unninayar
T
he often overcast skies of a small port in the Brittany region of northwest France quickly gave way to the call of the open seas. The compelling narrative of Jacques Branellec, from navigator to commercial pilot to environmentalist pearl farmer to community leader, chronicles the trials and errors and often death defying challenges— both from nature and man—that he experienced during his many travels around the world. The book is also filled with love and laughter, friendship and family, philosophy and wisdom. The first steps of Branellec’s daring adventures took him initially to North America, then to the lost atolls of Tahiti, where this professional pilot constructed airstrips against all odds, thus opening the islands to the world. It was also in Tahiti where he established his first cultured pearl farm, succeeding in a domain that had previously been reserved for the Japanese. Today, the black pearls that he developed are Polynesia’s primary export. After Tahiti, this adventurer sailed around the world, continuing his quest for the perfect pearl in the waters of the Caribbean, Panama, the Galapagos, the Marquesas Islands, Tonga, Fiji, the New Hybrides, Australia, and New Guinea. Finally, he landed on Palawan, one of the most remote islands in the Philippines. There, he discovered the Badjaos, who have transferred the secrets of diving to depths as great as 80 meters from one generation to the next. With the help of these “gypsies of the sea,” Branellec collected giant oysters—whose size can attain an incredible 26 centimetres in diameter— that he used to produce the largest pearls in the world. He formed a partnership with respected Filipino businessman, Manuel Cojuangco, and together they created Jewelmer, now known for its exquisite golden pearls. Over the course of his many dives, Branellec brought to light the wreck of a 15th century Chinese junk, and describes the trials and tribulations of its exploration. The wreck finally revealed a fabulous treasure of nearly 5,000 pieces of inestimable archaeological value. 82
In more than 240 pages, Jacques Branellec shares the incredible story of his search for the perfect pearl. This hardcover book will be available for sale at US$29.00 as of January 2014 at Jewelmer and Amazon.com, with proceeds to benefit SPSF. (Jewelmer.com) ISBN 978-971-0321-36-0
Concerned about the eventual extinction of the archipelago’s natural oyster beds, Branellec and the team at Jewelmer spent years researching and mastering the reproduction of the prized mollusks in hatcheries. The resulting highly valued jewels from the South Seas soon became the pride of the Philippines and the nation’s national symbol. Today, Jewelmer is the largest pearl producer on the planet, and its Jewelmer Joaillerie division produces a line of spectacular golden pearl jewellery. Realizing his quest for the perfect pearl, Branellec then turned his attention to the environment and how people can make a difference not only in helping protect the natural world, but also in improving the lives of the island’s inhabitants. In 2006, Jewelmer created a special organization called Save Palawan Seas Foundation (SPSF), whose programs over the last few years have provided workable alternatives for coastal communities. These include effective conservation and management strategies to facilitate the long-term sustainable use of marine resources of the province of Palawan. With expressive detail, Jacques Branellec shares with the reader his more than four-decade physical and spiritual journey from the occident to the orient, where he finally discovers the Ultimate Orient.
complete collection. the right diamond, of the precise quality, with the perfect finish and in the exact quantity — this is our promise, every time. comprehensive and consistent production of the highest quality diamonds in an array of styles enables a flawless service, inspiring trust in our customers. from the largest international brands to the smallest specialist jeweller, rosy blue can present a portfolio of polished diamonds to accommodate any order, anywhere in the world. and beyond our customary ranges, our designers will devise new cuts to meet any vision.
w w w. r o s y b l u e . c o m The DTC SighTholDer logo iS a TraDe mark uSeD unDer liCenCe from The De BeerS group
25.17 ct emerald cut in our Bogotá workshops, from a 43.75 ct rough, mined in Muzo, Colombia, February the 29th 2012. 27.59 ct emerald cut in our Bogotá workshops, from a 48.52 ct rough, mined in Muzo, Colombia, May the 21st 2013.
BaselWorld 2014 – March 27-April 03 – Hall 3.0, Booth D31
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