Recently Reviewed: short takes

recently reviewed

$10 OR LESS $10-$15 $15-$25 $25 OR MORE

The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person. Search hundreds more reviews at orlandoweekly.com

THE BRIDGE

The Bridge brands itself as “A New York Restaurant,” but sift through the unfocused, and pricey, menu and you’ll find gems with Turkish roots, like the “Bridge Special,” a kebab platter of gorgeous lamb chops, mini beef sausages and brochettes of seasoned filet mignon and chicken served over lavash and served with bulgur and seasonal vegetables. There’s also the “Brooklyn Shepherd,” a salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, parsley, feta, grape leaves and unpitted Manzanilla olives. Yes, the burgers are all fine and well (there’s even one layered with 24k gold leaf), but the Bridge should really embrace its Turkish roots. Open daily. (reviewed July 7) 155 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407755-3300, thebridgerestaurant.com, $$$

WINTER PARK BISCUIT CO.

The all-vegan Southern diner inside East End Market is known for its oat buttermilk biscuits, but the burgers (diaper-wrapped à la In-N-Out) stand up to any being served in town, plant-based or otherwise. The crunch of the Death Valley chik sandwich really impresses, as do the fries cooked in peanut oil. Open daily. (reviewed June 30) 3201 Corrine Drive, winterparkbiscuitco.com, $$

SOSEKI

Cozy 10-seat “modern omakase” in Winter Park offers a refined dining experience fusing global cuisine and Japanese-forward sushi-nigiri courses with a European-style degustation service. Dinner only. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. (reviewed June 23) 955 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-9847869, sosekifl.com, $$$$

KOMBU SUSHI RAMEN

In a less-glamorous, half-forgotten strip of Winter Park, Kombu Sushi Ramen maintains a fittingly low profile, serving a so-so mix of sushi, ramen and donburi. Kombu likely won’t be mentioned among the city’s elite sushi or ramen spots, but it’s bringing a foodie-fave cuisine to a neglected sector, and as local tastes are

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elevated, the kitchen may rise to meet them. Closed Mondays. (reviewed June 16) 7325 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 321-9729965, facebook.com/kombusushiramen, $$

FINANCIER BISTRO & BAR

The French patisserie-cum-bistro in Winter Park serves bistro classics as elegant as the restaurant itself, be it a properly Gruyère’d and bechamel’d croque-monsieur or a gorgeous ratatouille with arugula pistou. The pistou also makes an appearance in the burrata with heirloom cherry tomatoes. While perfectly roasted and crisp-skinned, the poulet rôti is a bit pricey. So is the burger with caramelized onions, barbecuelike house sauce and melted Gruyère running down the sides, but it’s a beaut. End with chocolate-hazelnut croissants or the flawless Madagascar vanilla crème brûlée. Closed Mondays. (reviewed June 9) 212 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 321-9722284, financierbistrobar.com, $$

FIRST WATCH

First Watch has a fresh new look, vibe and approach to daytime dining. Grease and deep fryers have been replaced by a healthier approach to cooking, be it the un-fried chickichanga or the less fatty biscuits and turkey sausage gravy. Other items we’d get again: ricotta pancakes served with lemon curd; the “elevated” egg sandwich; and the roast beef with horseradish-havarti sandwich, a lunchtime (or early dinner) favorite. There’s a separate kitchen and entrance area for takeout orders. Fresh juice tonics and boozy bevs are also offered. Open daily until 2:30 p.m. (reviewed June 2) 140 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-287-9034, firstwatch.com, $$

BOMBAY STREET KITCHEN

Specializing in Indian street fare from all over the subcontinent, this spiffy South OBT eatery wows with its proficiency of various regional specialties as well as its efficiency in delivering them. From kale chaat to pani puri (served on a mini-street cart) to Hakka noodles and Himalayan soup, Bombay Street Kitchen is streetwise. Open daily for lunch and dinner. (reviewed May 26) 6215 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407240-5151, bombaykitchenorlando.com, $$

PERLA’S PIZZA

Taglish Collective’s Michael Collantes fires up a slew of nonconformist pizzas from a little space connected to the Thirsty Topher beer bar in Ivanhoe Village. Of note: the “It’s Bananas” pizza with pepperoni, Calabrese peppers and bananas, and the “Mr. Fun Guy” with seasonal roasted mushrooms, kale and premium white truffle oil on a lemon-ricotta and pistachio pesto base. Open daily. (reviewed May 19) 603 Virginia Drive, perlaspizza.com, $$ n