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Price range reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person. Search hundreds more reviews at orlandoweekly.com.
EDITED BY JESSICA BRYCE YOUNG
DOLCE Salads, handhelds, rice bowls and all-day breakfast are offered at this intimate South Eola eatery, but it’s the cakes, crepes and confections that lure guests in. Cupcakes by Cupcake Wars Season 6 champion Jillian Hopke are offered, as are a host of crepes and sweets — the waffle cone stuffed with cheesecake being a solid choice. Happy hour, Monday to Friday from 4-7 p.m., offers great value. Open daily. (reviewed April 20) 500 E. Central Blvd., 407-800-6100, dolcethorntonpark.com, $$
ISAN ZAAP Specializing in the infernal and invigorating fare of northeastern Thailand, Isan Zaap has a bevy of delights for those who like it hot and then some. The som tum tray comprises everything from fermented raw pork sausage to Vietnamese bologna to a mound of funky green papaya salad. It’s an ideal introduction to Isan fare, though don’t overlook zingy nam tok, pork rib soup or items from the hush-hush menu (ask for it). Open daily. (reviewed April 13) 4693 Gardens Park Blvd., 407-203-1868, isanzaaporlando.com, $$
OOTOYA SUSHI LOUNGE Thornton Park sushi joint appeases both sushi purists and roll wreckers with a mix of traditional Japanese fare and a slew of makizushi offerings. Can’t-miss menu items include the bluefin tuna trio, black cod slicked in saikyo miso, and blue crab fried rice. Open daily. (reviewed April 6) 621 E. Central Blvd., 407-930-2002, ootoyasushilounge.com, $$$
TWENTY PHO HOUR It’s easy to be enamored by the monochromatic optics inside this 2D noodle bar (touted as America’s first), but it’s the boffo bowls of pho that really hold your gaze. You can go traditional with simple and satisfying pho tai, or bling it up proper with the “Pho King,” a $45 soup with filet mignon, lobster and foie gras. The Shanghai dumpling pho is another winner, as are the spicy pork dumplings. Open 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays. (reviewed March 30) 11951 International Drive, 407-788-1201, twentypho-hour.com, $$$
14 BIS PIZZERIA The aviation-themed pizzeria has a geekycool interior, but it’s the sugar-crusted pizzas that lure in scores of Brazilian pizza hounds. Toppings range from the unorthodox (sweet corn, catupiry, olives with pits) to the traditional, but you’ll want to use a fork and knife. Smaller topping-filled sfihas are also a draw and make ideal dessert endings. Closed Monday. (reviewed March 23) 2869 Wilshire Drive, 407-777-1414, 14bispizzeria.com, $$
YUMMY TASTE Sichuan restaurant in East Orlando does all the fiery staples of the regional Chinese cuisine well — from la zi ji chicken to sour-
and-spicy slivered potatoes. Indulging in an infernal bowl of “boiled pots fish” is worth a visit alone. Some vegan options are also offered. Closed Monday. (reviewed March 16) 504 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-866-2199, yummytasteorlando.com, $$$
FOUR FLAMINGOS Playful Floribbean creations envisioned by Top Chef: All-Stars winner Richard Blais are the draw at this restaurant inside the Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress. Molecular theatrics play an active role in the food and cocktails, but those shying away from the chemical chicanery (grilled lobster, tilefish beurre blanc and seafood moqueca) tend to be most gratifying. Desserts are a must, especially the gorgeous Key lime blossom pie. (reviewed March 9) Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress, 1 Grand Cypress Blvd., 407-239-1234, fourflamingosorlando.com, $$$$
JAM HOT CHICKEN Nashville hot chicken gets the gentrified treatment in gentrified Hannibal Square, and it’s a poultry pyro’s dream: Bell & Evans chicken kicked with habañero, ghost and Carolina Reaper peppers. Sides like crinklecut pickles, mayo-free slaw and comforting mac & cheese topped with dry bake are top-notch. Closed Monday and Tuesday. (reviewed Feb. 23) 400 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, jamhotchickenfl.com, $$
ISTANBUL GRILL The grilled meats at this unfussy South OBT restaurant rival those of any other local Turkish kebab house — well-seasoned lamb kofta, piquant adana and plush tenderloin especially. Lamb chops are also superb, as is the cheesy sujuk pide dotted with fat rounds of sausage. Open daily. (reviewed Feb. 16) 9428 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-2860887, istanbulgrillorlando.com, $$$
THE HALL ON THE YARD Dazzling grub hub in Ivanhoe Village brings upscale vibes (and prices) to the food hall experience. Nine concepts are housed within its gilded walls, each specializing in its own cuisine — vegan, Hawaiian, pan-Asian, gourmet, Southern, baked goods, Indian and Caribbean, plus a beer garden and an inside-outside cocktail bar. It’s full service, so be sure to check in with the host. Open daily. (reviewed Feb. 9) 1412 Alden Road, 407-8874255, thehallontheyard.com, $$-$$$$
1921 MOUNT DORA The Mount Dora stunner maintains a steadfast dedication to showcasing Florida ingredients, but with a new level of artistry thanks to chef Chris Edwards and his team. From seared diver scallops to oak-fired chicken glazed in peanut bulgogi to coffeerubbed venison, the dishes dazzle, and the wine list is still one of the best in the state. Closed Mondays. (reviewed Feb. 2) 142 E. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora, 352-385-1921, 1921mountdora.com, $$$$ n
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APRIL 27-MAY 3, 2022 ● ORLANDO WEEKLY
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