proliferation of scallops on seemingly every Michelin star menu in the UK, this was an example of how to do it well. Beautifully tender and succulent, the tandoori spices of the dressing acted as the perfect foil for the scallop.
Faultless cooking
As we proceeded through the menu, there was nothing to find fault with and we were left wondering why more restaurants at this level struggle to find such consistency. In a sense, the
predictability of the cuisine at Hélène Darroze might do it a disservice to newcomers looking for theatre and spectacle. For us, the restaurant’s dependability is its crowning glory. Unashamedly devouring the savoury courses of Sole, Hake, Lamb, Black Truffle and Chicken respectively, the wine pairings were delicately judged, each one teasing out the essence of the core ingredients to great effect. There was a distinctly AsianFrench fusion at work here, which was a pleasant surprise from our last visit. Yet, despite this, the cooking was unwaveringly excellent. We could wax lyrical about each course but the food should (and does) do the talking here, although we couldn’t live with ourselves if we didn’t mention the divine Roasted Hake! Yes, the restaurant is expensive – more than £350 for two for 7 courses including wine pairings – and yes it is one of London’s most rarefied neighbourhoods. But when the food, service and wine is so replete, all one can do is sit back and savour the experience until the next time.
>>