Cáceres,
a haunted town
“Human History Communication and Reflection”
Keep heading southwest a couple hundred more kilometres and you’ll reach the historic city of Cáceres, which besides an extraordinary UNESCO World Heritage old town and various other allures has prominent haunted houses of its own. Banging doors, windows that open by themselves, and unexplained nocturnal noises have been reported. http://love2fly.iberia.com/2014/10/ halloween-haunted-spots-in-spain/
LOGOTIPOS DEL PROYECTO: Julia Rivero Sánchez
Leo von Caprivi Montero
The legend of Christ Arch he following story took place at the foot of the oldest preserved gate in Cáceres, known as the River Gateway or Christ Arch. The dim light of a streetlamp illuminates a small niche which houses a statue of the Crucified Christ.
she was. So, they decided to let Doña Inés choose between them.
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When they were approaching the palace, they heard two people whispering. When they peered around the corner, they saw Doña Ines at a window, saying goodbye to a young man who was descending from the palace using a rope. Both gentlemen realised that Doña Ines’ heart already belonged to that young man.
In the 15th century, in the time of the Catholic Kings, there were two young gentlemen who met a beautiful lady at a reception in the Aldana palace. The knights were Don Gutierre de Saavedra and Don Fernán de Perero. The lady was called Doña Inés de Aldana, daughter of Don Rodrigo de Aldana and Doña Juana.
For all these reasons, they were grateful to the Crucified Christ. At that very moment, both swore that henceforth the candle light in Christ Arch should never go out. The Gutierre de Saavedra and the Perero families would be responsible for keeping the gate illuminated at all times. So, the candle needed to be lit every night. Originally the gate was lit with candles and later with electric light.
According to legend, the gentlemen realised that they had both fallen in love with Doña Inés. They decided that the only way to settle their dispute was to fight. The winner would marry Doña Inés. The place chosen for the duel was Christ Arch. The knights prepared their weapons, but when the duel began, the candle went out and they were in absolute darkness, so they decided to lower their swords. Suddenly, the candle illuminated again, so they decided to continue with the duel. Then, the candle began to blink and went out to the surprise of the knights, who lowered their swords again. They thought that a wind might be blowing out the candle. Again and again, when they tried to fight, the light went out and when they separated the light returned. In amazement, they both felt that Christ seemed to be looking at them. They understood that the candle was a signal to prevent the shedding of their blood for a lady’s love, no matter how beautiful 3
The legend of Mansabora Sometimes, the princess and her maids have been seen on St. George’s night, when they turn human again, crying as they wander the streets of medieval Cáceres.
n 1229, Cáceres was ruled by a haughty, arrogant Arabic caid (chief ), who had an only daughter, princess Mansabora, whom he adored. The princess fell in love with a Christian captain whose army had besieged the city, which was called AlQazeres at that time. They tried to see each other secretly because they didn’t want to reveal their love.
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Another version of the legend says that the Muslim caid locked his daughter in the cistern in Las Veletas Palace, where she died slowly, drowned in its waters. In fact, there are those who say that on St. George’s night screams can be heard coming from the water tank.
The battles to take the castle intensified and the captain was forced to fight night and day. Meanwhile the caid had increased the protection of his daughter, making it impossible for the two lovers to see each other. However, one night the Christian Captain met the princess in the outskirts of the city. The princess, listening to her heart, had gone in search of her beloved Captain. After a couple of days, the city fell into the hands of the Christian army, which destroyed all the defenses and killed most of its inhabitants. The caid summoned his daughter, who confessed that she had given the keys of the city to the man whom she loved. The caid, mad with anger, cursed the princess: “Until the children of the prophet return to reconquer the city lost by your actions, you will be turned into a golden hen that will roam the streets of the city forever. Your twelve maids will also be turned into golden chicks and will wander with you”. 4
The legend of The House of the Monkey he House of the Monkey (or PizarroEspadero House) is a gothic building, located in the monumental quarter of Cáceres. The house gets its name from the legends that circulate regarding its first dwellers.
this house. They were called Gonzalo de Cáceres and Marina Alonso de los Nidos. They were sad because they were unable to have children. Gonzalo, a salesman, spent long periods travelling, while Marina was left alone surrounded by her servants. In order to cheer her up, Gonzalo bought a monkey during one of his longs trips to America. The monkey became the center of attention in the house and was treated as if he was a child. He even had his own bedroom, full of toys.
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This legend, perhaps the most popular, describes a rich couple in the 15th century who lived in
During one of Gonzalo’s trips, a handsome knight knocked at the door of the house asking for shelter for the night. Marina agreed, and when her husband returned home, he received the good news that his wife was pregnant. The arrival of the baby filled them with happiness. Well, all of them were happy, except the monkey, who was no longer the center of attention. The jealous monkey, being neglected by the family, picked up the small baby and threw him out of the window, killing him instantly. Marina suffered deep depression and died shortly after. Gonzalo, furious with the monkey, shackled him next to the stairs leading to the house, and let him die in a slow and painful way. Not long ago, some neighbours said that they could hear the cries of a baby and the cries of a monkey when they passed by the palace. Currently, in the facade of the house we can observe three gargoyles that recreate the legend: a woman crying, an old man and an ape with a child. Inside the palace there is a sculpture of a chained monkey. 5
The Coat of Arms in Casa del Sol Early one morning, his oldest son appeared in the house sobbing and with bloody hands. For a few gambling debts, he had killed a man that night. At that time of the morning, all the entrance and exit doors of the city would be watched by the authorities, who were searching for him. So, the stonemason decided to hide his son in the wall they were building in the Casa del Sol, by embedding him in it, leaving only a small hole where the air would enter and they could supply him with some food and drink until they could get him out of the city. There was not much time, as the workers would arrive soon. At nightfall the youngest son asked his father to go to rescue his brother, but his father replied that it was too early. On the second and third day the son continued insisting but his father’s answer was no. The true fact was that the intention of the father was different from the youngest’s. From the very beginning, the stonemason did not want to rescue his eldest son but to punish him for his bad behaviour. He preferred to let him die there than to see him die in prison. The building works continued, but from that day the youngest son did not speak to his father. After several days the last decoration of the side facade was placed with another coat of arms, but the sun was now different. It was a sad sun, as a reminder of the cruel dishonour caused by his son to the master stonemason. After completing his work, the master stonemason paid his youngest son his salary. The young man took the money bag and gave it to one of the children who was playing around and told him: “Please, buy some flowers and put them below the coat of arms with a sad face”. And after giving a hug to his father, he disappeared.
t 2 Callejon de la Monja Street visitors will find the imposing building called the Sun House or Casa del Sol. It is a Gothic building, from the 15th century, but some renovation works in the 16th century provided it with its current appearance. For these renovations, in 1549, a noble man hired a master stonemason, the best in the kingdom. He asked him to come from León region, and commanded him to sculpt the most beautiful coat of arms in the town. The artist arrived in Cáceres with two of his sons, who in addition to accompanying him, were his best assistants. Immediately, ideas came to his mind, and he began to sculpt the majestic coat of arms of the Solís: pompous, energetic, almost insulting. The days passed, and the people from the town began to appreciate his work, and the excitement emotion of both the master and his children grew, as they contemplated the beauty of their work. The stonemason’s eldest son went out every night to explore the least recommended places in the town, full of crooks, prostitutes, thieves and players. In the mornings, exhausted, he made many excuses to justify his tiredness in front of his father. Eventually the master stonemason concluded the impressive coat of arms, with an ostentatious feathered helmet and a sun with a human face with a mocking-carnivalesque grimace, from which 16 rays shone, 8 of them bitten by serpent heads. The lord of the house, enthusiastic about his work, ordered him to make some more reforms on the side facade and asked him to sculpt another coat of arms, although smaller in scale. The stonemason gladly accepted the offer, which would allow him to stay for a few more weeks in the Villa of Cáceres.
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The legend of The Mora Tower he Round Tower or Mora Tower is an Arabicstyle tower built in the 13th century on a Roman foundation. The tower is octagonal, so we do not know why it is called the Round Tower.
people who were trapped in the flames. She never thought about the risks. Her feet got burned by the fire. She did not feel pain but her wounds didn’t heal. Because she wasn’t able to walk, she asked for some chambers to be built in the tower where she waited for the return of her beloved husband.
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There was a time when the vast territory surrounding what in the future would be Cáceres was under the power of a caid (chief ). The caid was a great warrior who ruled and protected the fortress of Qazris from Christian attacks.
Finally, there was a ceasefire again. The caid returned, and when he found his wife ill, he called the best doctors. It didn’t matter if they were Muslims, Jews or Christians. But they all agreed: leprosy! The most dreaded disease at that time. Not only was it an incurable disease, but it also brought shame on the person who suffered it.
One day, during a ceasefire, a procession accompanied by an ambassador of the Caliph of Cordoba, his powerful and beloved Lord, came to the fortress from the south. There was an important reason for this visit: to provide the caid with a wife because of his courage and his victories over the Christians.
The young and beautiful wife asked her husband to abandon her. But the caid, blinded by love, called the most courageous of his captains, and he ordered: “As soon as you leave this tower, you are in charge. You will order Los Alarifes to close all the tower doors and openings, so that neither light nor air can enter. Defend Qazris and the lands that we have been entrusted and obey our Caliph on anything that he orders”.
The maid was a beautiful woman of the Omeya family, the Caliph’s own family. The caid, very honored, decorated the streets to celebrate his wedding, which took place in the small mosque that had been built in the highest area. Soon, a passionate love grew between them. When the ceasefire finished, the caid had to leave his wife in Qazris, as he was engaged in a new war.
The captain, obedient and respectful, did so. He locked the lovers up for eternity, as the caid wished. This is the tragic legend of the Round Tower, also called “Ochavada”.
After his departure, every evening the young wife went to the tower located on the top of the city walls, to look for any sign of the return of her beloved husband. One night she noticed that on the nearby hill there was fire in a shepherd’s hut. She took her horse and rode fast toward the fire. She helped the poor 7
A VISIT TO CÁCERES 1
Label the most important buildings on the plan of the Main Square.
1. Town hall 2. Ermita de la Paz 3. Bujaco Tower 4. Estrella Arch 5. Bishop Palace
6. Toledo-Moctezuma Palace 7. Púlpitos Tower 8. Yerba Tower 9. Foro de los Balbos 10. Buraca Tower
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2
Can you date the most important buildings in the Main Square: MEDIEVAL AGE
3
ARABIC
RENAISSANCE AGE
Write a paragraph explaining the importance of the Main Square as a meeting point in Cáceres.
What is the name of the gate that leads to the old town? ������������������������������������ Why do you think it has this unusual shape? ��������������������������������������������� 9
4
Label the most important buildings in Santa María Square.
BUILDINGS
DATES
11. Ovando Palace 12. Carvajal Palace 13. Santa María Cathedral 14. Bishop Palace 15. Moraga House 16. Dukes of Valencia House 17. Diputación Provincial 18. Golfines de Abajo Palace
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TO KNOW MORE… Which palace has two stone medals with the image of two people? Who are those people? Are you able to read and translate the latin inscription above the medals, just below the coats of arms?
Draw the coats of arms of two of the buildings: BUILDING:
BUILDING:
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5
Opposite and next to the cathedral you can see two palaces. Translate the information you can find about these buildings.
NAME:
NAME:
  Both have Renaissance style entrances. Choose your favourite and draw it in the box:
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6
Go inside Carvajal Palace and measure the size of the model of the Old Town that you find inside.
On entering the house and going through the cloisters, you will see a big, rectangular patio, with columns, from which you can go upstairs. Without doing that, walk around the patio and find the door that leads to the garden. Here there is a tree that is more than 500 years old. What is the name of this tree?
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Who is the saint in the corner next to the cathedral?
TO LEARN MORE, complete the missing information with the words in the box. 1981 2.5 metres Enrique Pérez Comendador Bronze Hervás (Cáceres) 1900 November, 10th, 1954 Madrid The statue is a portrait of the sculptor Santa María Square San Pedro de Alcántara Sculptor: Place or birth: Date of birth: He died in
in
Títle: Monument to Location: Material: Measures: Released: Curiosity: References: LOZANO BARTOLOZZI, María del Mar, Escultura pública y monumentos conmemorativos en Cáceres Escultura Urbana 2003. http://www.esculturaurbana.com/paginas/com001.htm
Explain the local tradition related to the statue:
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Translate the information about Santa María Cathedral. The Cathedral of Santa María in Cáceres is a late Gothic construction that was renovated in the 15th and16th centuries. Located in the square of the same name, it has held the rank of church cathedral since 1957. The outside is a typically sober example of Spanish medieval architecture. Initially it was Romanesque style, but now only some traces of its transition to Gothic style remain, and one can appreciate Renaissance features in the tower and the choir. In one of its corners, at ground level, there is a sculpture of San Pedro de Alcántara.
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As you leave Santa María Square, go towards San Jorge Square. You will go through an open space where there are various palaces. On your right , Mayoralgo Palace and on your left the Diputación Provincial.
Translate the information you can find about these buildings: NAME:
NAME:
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Keep going and you will find another very beautiful palace. What is its name? Find the inscription on the front of the building that indicates who this palace belongs to and write it below. Then translate it into English.
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1480
“Fer de Fer”
Gothic
Catholic Monarchs
XV
XVI
Plateresque
NAME: Century:1 Styles: 2 with 3 decoration on the façade that dates from the 4 century. The biggest palace in the town, it was built in the space of nearly 5 houses! This house was the residence of the 6 when they visited the town in 7 . This is the reason why we can see their coat of arms on the façade. Under the window, we can see the Golfines coat of arms, held by two angels and with the inscription 8 that refers to King Fernando and his beloved grandson also called Fernando after him.
10 When you set to San Jorge Square, you will see a big church. Complete and learn some important facts about it. saint
18th
San Francisco Javier
façade
NAME: 1 2
Preciosa Sangre
Baroque
arch
Church, but people call it Church. Constructed in 3
style by the
Society of Jesus in the 4
century, next to a school,
they form a monumental group which presides over a large space in San Jorge Square. Pay attention to the main 5 with a semicircular 6
and the niche with the image who lends the church his name.
of the 7 15
11 Did you know that England and Cáceres share their patron saint? Explain this fact. Then explain these flags.
12 Now go up a steep street with big steps. What is the name of this street?
13 You will arrive to a big space with several important buildings: a church, museums, convents, etc. Face left. At the end you will see a big building which gives its name to this part of the square. It is the Provincial Archeological Museum. When is the museum open? When is the museum not open?
14 Coming back to the other square on your right, you will see a big tower. Find out why this tower is so tall. destruction “Palace of the storks” Diego Fernández de Cáceres and Ovando arrogance 15th “Tower of the Storks.” Catholic Monarchs fealty NAME: Constructed towards the end of the 1 century by the captain 2 , it is also known as and 4 . the 3 This defensive tower was the only one allowed to be erected during the . The Kings had ordered the reign of the 5 6 of all of the other towers to teach the rebel . They only spared lords a lesson due to their 7 to the this tower, for Diego’s friendship and 8 Kings. Nowadays it is the headquarters of the Military Government. 16
15 The church that dominates the square is Saint Mathew’s Church, built between the XVI and the XVIII centuries. It is believed that it was built over the remains of a mosque. It has a Plateresque entrance. Guess who the characters that appear on the plaques above the door are:
16 Go round the corner of the church. At the end you will see a palace with an unusual façade. Translate the information about this building: NAME:
INFORMATION:
Look at the small round balcony on the façade. It doesn’t have a floor. It’s called “matacán” in Spanish. The spaces with the shape of a cross are called “troneras”. What function do you guess “matacanes” and “troneras” had?
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17
Look for Condes Street. What are the buildings on this street used for?
Translate the inscription that you find on one of the walls on the street on the right.
18 At the end of this street, turn right and you’ll see, to the left, a narrow street. Follow it until you get to an unusual palace, with a baroque façade. NAME: DATE:
ADDRESS: The Ovando family ordered it to be built, but being related to the Ulloa family, it was these, the Earls of Adanero, who inherited it at the start of the 20th century. They lived in it for long periods of time. This strange facade, characterized by large bolstered ashlars, was made during the 17th century, following Italian mannerist models, specifically that of the Italian architect Sebastiano Serlio.
bolstered ashlars: sillares almohadillados
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Opposite this palace you will see a gate. What is its name?
NAME OF THE GATE: This gate was one of the access points opened out of the necessity to gain entrance between the main gates of the wall. Its present appearance dates from the18th century. The outer arch, towards the walkway, is crowned by a niche that contains a modern image of Saint Anne with the Virgin and Child.
To learn more: an “adarve” is a walkway or narrow street next to the city walls.
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20 Follow the “adarve” and go to Caldereros Square. What important buildings can we see in this square? NAME: Impressive mansion from the 16th century with Gothic façade with two carved coats of arms of the family. Over the ensemble there’s a defensive granite balcony with arrow slits supported by three corbels. This palace owes its name to Mrs María Cayetana Vicenta de Ovando y Calderón, viscountess of Peñaparda de Flores, who got married in 1753 to the Lieutenant General Mr Vicente Francisco de Ovando Rol, 4th Marquis of Camarena and later 1st Marquis of Camarena la Real.
Corbels: ménsulas Bishopric: obispado, diócesis Refurbishment: restauración
It was the head office of Cáceres City Council from 1860 to 1869, while the current Town Hall was built. Then it was owned successively by the Bishopric of Coria in order to settle in it the Sindicatos Católicos (Acción Católica), by the former journal Extremadura (nowadays El Periódico Extremadura) and, lastly, after a deep refurbishment, it held the Faculty of Law of the University of Extremadura until 1995. Nowadays, it’s the head office of the Rectory of University of Extremadura.
Opposite this palace there is another one, which also belongs to the University of Extremadura. Describe its façade. NAME:
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