ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 August 5–11, 2016
The Good Fork, a Red Hook Favorite
on D8
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LAND OF
LAKES
Watkins Glen State Park.
The beautiful Finger Lakes region is a sure draw for wine lovers
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By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
UNDEE, N.Y.—The Finger Lakes area is a young wine region at only 50 years old, but you could say that the forces that set in motion the geological composition of the area started 2 million years ago. That’s when glaciers carved out valleys and gorges and left behind a rich and complex geological makeup including shale and limestone. You can see it clear as day when you visit Watkins Glen State Park, where the 19 waterfalls cascade, gush, and gurgle down a narrow canyon. On either side, the walls, worn down by erosion, reveal horizontal layers of rock, as if divine hands had been playing Jenga. The region has 11 lakes, which have a moderating effect on the surrounding microclimates on the shores, the so-called banana belt, protecting the vines. Just over 100 wineries can be found in the area. For a visitor, the beauty of the lakes, deep blue and narrow, are a natural draw; and sunrises and sunsets are events unto themselves.
See Finger Lakes on D2
A view of Seneca Lake and vineyards at Glenora Wine Cellars in Dundee, N.Y.
Hermann J. Wiemer’s gorgeous salmon-hued 2009 Brut Rosé, made of 100 percent pinoir noir.
Flatbread and grilled cheese with a glass of traminette at Castel Grisch winery in Watkins Glen, N.Y.
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Oskar Bynke (L) and Fred Merwarth run Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in Dundee, N.Y.
LAND OF
(Left) A tasting of singlevineyard rieslings at Hermann J. Wiemer, famed for its wines.
LAKES Finger Lakes continued from D1 While staying on the west coast of Seneca Lake at the Inn at Glenora Wine Cellars, I found myself waking around 5:30 a.m. every morning (not my normal habit, I assure you) just to catch the sun breaching over the hills. One morning, without a cloud in the sky, a thin red sliver quickly turned into an eye-searing golden white flash; the next, gentle strokes of honey and apricot painted the sky. Once awake, though, you have to wait till 10 a.m. for the wine action to start. That’s when the wineries open, so it’s worth taking time for a leisurely breakfast. The Wines Before my visit, I spoke with Thomas Pastuszak, wine director at The NoMad in Manhattan’s Flatiron District. The wine list there is as impressive as it is extensive, and currently features about 50 wines from the Finger Lakes region. Pastuszak made it his personal mission when he started working in New York City restaurants five years ago to put Finger Lakes wines on the map. Back then, “you’d have to look hard to find a restaurant that featured wine from the Finger Lakes, and today you can’t walk down Broadway without passing a restaurant on every block that has at least one or a few wines from the area,” he said. Pastuszak lived in the region for eight years— while attending Cornell University he was a pre-medical student, but while working in restaurants in the area, fell in love with its wines. He made it his own personal mission to represent what he thought were the best wines from the Finger Lakes and featured them alongside those from the Alsace and Mosel regions “to show that the area, in my opinion, was as serious and significant as these other regions that people knew and loved.” Tasting was believing. “As soon as people tasted the best examples, they got very excited about it. They realized, wow, there is something really great here,” he said. Because it is a young wine area, he said, it’s a region “that’s still discovering itself, and people are still learning what they want to do in the area. Everyone is experimenting and doing different things. There’s a very complex diversity of styles being made.” There’s riesling, yes, but the styles range from very dry, to off-dry with a bit of sweetness, to sweet. Pastuszak had wanted to bring his experience as a sommelier to winemaking, and is currently at work on two projects. One is a smaller bou-
T R AV E LS
! Hotshots! When summer bears down on Hermann J. Wiemer, co-owner Oskar Bynke drinks their 2014 Dry Riesling and 2011 Blanc de Noirs, while for business partner Fred Merwarth, it’s the Lemberger and 2014 Gewürztraminer.
(Above) Roasted broccoli and chicken liver pâté tartine at Graft Wine & Cider Bar.
View of Seneca Lake from Glenora Wine Cellars.
tique project with his wife, who is also a sommelier, called Terrassen Cellars. Sourcing from old-vine vineyards, grown on the east side of Seneca Lake, they only produced small quantities, and made rosé and cabernet franc in the style of Loire Valley producers they love. The wines will be released this fall. The other is Empire Estate, a winemaking collaboration with The NoMad and Eleven Madison Park, meant to showcase the quality of Finger Lakes wineries to the world. “We want to show that riesling can be delicious and dry, to plant the flag for dry riesling and to be as proud of it as a Napa Valley producer would be of their cabernet sauvignon,” he said. The 2014 Dry Riesling is sold out, but the 2015 will be released later this summer. Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard There’s an obsessive quality to the growing and selection of grapes at the Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, resulting in elegant and complex wines. The renowned winery stopped spraying herbicides years ago, and uses natural yeast fermentation. “We’ve been operating an almost exclusively organic viticultural practice, which, 10 to 15 years ago in discussions with Hermann [Wiemer], we thought was virtually impossible,” said winemaker, vineyard manager, and co-owner Fred Merwarth. Merwarth, a longtime apprentice of Wiemer, took over the operation in 2007, with his business partner Oskar Bynke. The two continue Wiemer’s legacy, with a strong emphasis on the quality of the vines and fruit. Wiemer’s father was responsible for replanting vines in the Mosel after World War II, and Wiemer understood the importance of grafting. The winery has a bustling nursery business, and last year alone grafted 540,000 plants, a laborious mechanical task that still requires precise hand-eye coordination. “The knowhow and the culture we draw from is other parts of the world, where the winemaking is exceptional,” said Bynke. “That’s because there’s not yet a culture here. However we are not trying to make German or Austrian rieslings. We are trying to establish the culture that should be in place, winemaking skills and knowhow to make fantastic wines from this place.” Since the beginning, Wiemer marched to the beat of his own drum, opting to plant vinifera varietals when the area was mostly planted with native and hybid varietals with an eye to quantity only. Today, the winery is experimenting with biodynamic practices, with a field under cultivation for three years. If it bears fruit in 2017, they will look to move to a larger acreage.
“We’ve heard so many people talk just about the winemaking,” Merwarth said. “We make wine, yes, but here’s the fruit that we use, and here’s exactly where it’s from, the flavors we’re getting. Rarely does the conversation center on the vineyards.” After years of focus on still wines, the winery recently bottled a sparkling riesling they will be releasing in two years. A Visit to Ravines Wine Cellars Carolyn Kruk poured me a glass of riesling. From her necklace hung a golden pendant in the shape of Keuka Lake, in the Finger Lakes, wishbone-like, with a diamond at the very southern tip to mark where she lives. Behind her a tall, wide window gave straight onto the hill and the deep blue, sparkling Keuka Lake. It was one of the most beautiful views I’ve seen from a wine tasting room. Kruk doesn’t have much of a chance to turn around, but given as I was taking my own sweet time and we were talking about the lake, she turned sideways and gazed outward, taking it all in. I was not sure who was loving the view more, she or I. Kruk was a high school teacher in her past life and is now one of the tasting room staff at Ravines Wine Cellars on Keuka Lake. She loves their wines so much that at one point during my visit, she even gave one of the bottles a little hug—a 2013 Pinot Noir that earned excellent reviews and whose relatively high levels of resveratrol antioxidants give it something of a youthful, “elixir of life” aura. The signature, though, is the 2014 Dry Riesling, which has a delightful balance between notes of pear, stone fruit, and white flower, with crisp acidity and minerality. It had complexity but at the same time possessed a light-as-a cloud ethereal quality. It’s actually a skillful blend of rieslings from two different vineyards, and she then had me taste both—one redolent of citrus and stone fruit, and the other a more mineral, drier riesling. For a completely different experience, Kruk paired the 2014 Cabernet Franc, with its fruit notes of black and red fruits and spice, with a chocolate medallion flavored with cranberry and orange zest. It was a tremendous pairing, a marriage of dark chocolate with the wine’s complex notes, racing to—boom!—an explosive cherry finish at the end. Nearby, another staff member attended to a group of women on a bachelorette outing, all dressed in matching purple shirts, except for the bride-to-be in white. The name of the gentleman pouring their wines is Seery Chamberlain.
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August 5–11, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Carolyn Kruk pours samples of wine at the Ravines Wine Cellars tasting room in Hammondsport, N.Y. Behind her is Lake Keuka.
The terrace at the Stonecat Cafe in Hector, N.Y.
Where to Eat in the Finger Lakes Stonecat Cafe A can’t-miss destination, rustic Stonecat Cafe, located in Hector, on the eastern edge of Seneca Lake, has been a mainstay for 18 years. Catch a sunset alongside one of its signature “cult classics” like the Hector Pulled Pork BBQ, served with cornbread, a refreshingly dilly coleslaw, and a smoky posole of black-eyed peas, black beans, and hominy ($17). Make sure to get Scooter’s Hot Sauce to go with it ($1.50); it adds a sultry, smoky heat. Desserts are legendary. If you’re lucky, you’ll chance upon sorbet made from the tiny, local strawberries. stonecatcafe.com Graft Wine & Cider Bar Inventive dishes abound at this Watkins Glen wine and cider bar, which highlights the bounty of the area’s farms. The roasted local broccoli emanates a nuttiness that is an addictive match for the almond-tahini dressing, and made even more satisfying by the toasted caraway and poppy seeds ($9). Among other great picks are the chicken liver pâté tartine, on housemade bread with pickled garlic scapes and caramelized shallots; and the local oyster mushrooms, seasoned simply with olive oil and smoked paprika ($5). The staff is friendly and knowledgeable and will walk you through their fantastic local cider and wine selections and pairings. facebook.com/graftwinebar Dano’s Heuriger on Seneca Sunsets are a great time to stop by Dano’s, since it’s on the east side of Seneca Lake. Adults can let the kids loose in the fields while they take a seat in the back. The restaurant is modeled on a traditional Viennese winery restaurant, and the menu offers Austrian specialties. Wines are mostly local, with some from Austria. danosonseneca.com FLX Wienery A gourmet take on hot dogs, sausages, and hamburgers— what’s not to love about it? Located in Dundee, on the west side of Seneca Lake, it’s run by chef and master sommelier Christopher Bates and his wife, Isabel Bogadtke. The choices are paralyzing: Will it be a Peanut Burger (peanut butter, bacon, fried onions, American cheese, $11.50) or the Whole Hog wiener (fried onions, bacon, cheese curd, corn relish, fried egg, chipotle mayo, herbs, $9.95)? Of course there are wines and beers, but also milkshakes that will beckon your inner child, in flavors like Nutella malt, salted caramel and pretzel, and bacon and brown sugar ($4.25). flxwienery.com Snug Harbor Watch the boats come in at Snug Harbor in Hammondsport, on the shores of Keuka Lake. The restaurant is located in a historic house built in the 1890s. The Chef’s Burger ($16), with fried leeks, bacon, Swiss cheese, and pesto aioli, and served with Parmesan-dusted fries, hits the spot if you have any burger cravings. The Soba Noodle salad and Summer Bouquet salad with seasonal greens are lighter options ($8). snugharborkeuka.com
Emilia Romagna IS THE REASON YOU LOVE ITALIAN FOOD & WINE BALSAMIC VINEGAR • WINE TRAILS • PARMIGIANO REGGIANO • TASTINGS Emilia Romagna is the land of flavors, making it a destination for the gourmand in search of tradition, authenticity, and top quality gastronomy. We are home to some of the world’s finest products and producers. It is all here. Find out what you missed the last time you went to Italy:
VISIT EMILIAROMAGNATURISMO.COM VISITEMILIA.COM
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THE BRONX FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL
stuff to eat and drink around nyc COURTESY OF SPUNTINO WINE BAR & ITALIAN TAPAS
Eat NYC’s The Bronx Food and Wine Festival is headed to the Bronx Zoo. The event will offer bites and sips from local restaurants, distilleries, breweries, and wineries, and a selection of treats from other local artisans. Honorary awards will be presented for the best Bronx chef and restaurant. A portion of ticket proceeds will benefit Food Bank for New York City. $75 to $100 per person. Friday, Aug. 12 5 p.m.–8:30 p.m. Bronx Zoo, Dancing Crane Pavilion 2300 Southern Blvd. The Bronx eatnycfoodandwinefest.com
FARM-TO-TABLE DINNER AT SPUNTINO WINE BAR & ITALIAN TAPAS The modern wine and Italian tapas bar is holding a farm-totable fundraiser for City Green, a non-profit organization dedicated to establishing urban farms and gardens in northern New Jersey. The five-course dinner, headed by executive chef Josh Bernstein, will feature local, seasonal dishes starring ingredients from City Green’s gardens, such as Local Burrata, with Winterbor kale pesto and cherry tomato honey; Goffle Farm Turkey “Steak,” with Tuscan kale, heirloom cherry tomatoes, and salsa verde; and Nelson Carrot Cake, with ginger cream and candied red bell radishes. Each dish will be paired with wine from Spuntino’s extensive worldwide wine list. $80 per person. Tuesday, Aug. 9 6:30 p.m. Spuntino Wine Bar & Italian Tapas 70 Kingsland Rd. Clifton, N.J. spuntinowinebar.com/clifton
New York’s only farm-to-bar cocktail festival is returning. Secret Summer will offer craft cocktails made with fresh ingredients from urban farms, featuring brands including Woodford Reserve, Fentimans, Finlandia Vodka, and Polar Seltzer. Guests can pair their drinks with food from local vendors, such as Eddie’s Pizza and Van Leeuwen Ice Cream, enjoy performances ranging from aerialists to musicians, and participate in activities from a ping-pong garden to a live graffiti installation. $75 to $150 per person. Sunday, Aug. 14 4 p.m.–10 p.m. The Foundry, 42-38 Ninth St. Long Island City, Queens secretsummernyc.com
GREAT FOOD TRUCK DERBY
Goffle Farm Turkey “Steak” with Tuscan kale, heirloom cherry tomatoes, and salsa verde.
SECRET SUMMER COCKTAIL FESTIVAL
Feast among the potato fields at Edible East End’s Great Food Truck Derby, which brings more than 15 New York City and Long Island food trucks to the Hayground School. Food options include Blondies Bake Shop, Pizza Luca, Chiddy’s Cheesesteaks, and Island Empanada, alongside beverages from vendors like Brooklyn Brewery and Sweet’tauk Lemonade. The event will coincide with the Hayground School Community farmers market and programming for families and children, and will benefit the Hayground schoolyard projects in the region. $65 to $100 per adult, $20 per child (12 and under). Friday, Aug. 19, 4 p.m.–7 p.m. Hayground School 151 Mitchell Lane Bridgehampton, N.Y. edibleeastend.com LINDSAY MORRIS
HUDSON RIVER PARK’S BLUES BBQ Enjoy a day of food and music on the waterfront at Hudson River Park’s 17th annual Blues BBQ. The festival will pair favorite New York City BBQ restaurants, like Arrogant Swine and Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, with top Blues and Roots musicians, such as Gaye and the Wild Rutz and Cash Box Kings. Free admission. Saturday, Aug. 20, 2 p.m.–9 p.m. Pier 97 at Hudson River Park hudsonriverpark.org
MANHATTAN BY SAIL OFFERS CULINARY SAILS Manhattan by Sail has launched a summer dinner series on the water, featuring the restaurants Delicatessen, The Meatball Shop, and The Lucky Bee. On select Monday evenings, diners will enjoy customized, one-night-only menus aboard the 158-foot 1854 Clipper City schooner, as they tour the southern tip of Manhattan on a two-hour sail. The next Culinary Sail, on Aug. 22, will feature a seafood menu from Delicatessen. $100 per person.
Children play bean bag toss at last year’s event.
Select Mondays through September, 7 p.m.–9 p.m. The Battery, Slip 2 manhattanbysail.com
COURTESY OF SUSHISAMBA
夏のメニュー
SUMMER PLATES AT DONGURI A sampling of our summer menu
Sweet Corn Tempura Grilled Black Cod Marinated with White Miso Traditional Clear Soup Mochidoki Ice Cream Matcha Green Tea, Salted Caramel, Passion Fruit
COURTESY OF SUSHISAMBA
OLYMPICS MENU AT SUSHISAMBA
Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.
Chef Yamasaki
(Clockwise from top) Acarajé de Orixá, a panfried black-eyed peas snack; Strawberry Sake Caipirinha, with lime, strawberry purée, sake, and guava juice; and Pastel de Feijoada, empanadas filled with black bean stew. Through Aug. 21 4 p.m.–7 p.m. 11 p.m.–close SushiSamba West Village 87 Seventh Ave. S. sushisamba.com
The Sou ffle Fell
RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)
The Brazilian-Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant is celebrating the Rio Olympics with screenings of the games and Brazilian-inspired cocktails and cuisine. SushiSamba will offer three twists on a caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail made with cachaça, or sugarcane liquor, including the Kaffirinha Sorbet Sparkler with kaffir lime sorbet, cachaça, and sparkling wine floater. Guests can complement their cocktails with Brazilian street food and sweets, such as Bolinhos de Bacalhau, a fritterlike morsel made with sea bass, purple Peruvian potatoes, and aji amarillo (a thick-fleshed chile); and Pasteis de Caipirinha, a flaky tart baked with nata (Brazilian custard) flavored with cachaça and lime juice and zest.
COURTESY OF SUSHISAMBA
Chef’s Tasting Kaiseki Menu Always Available, $150
In the story “Chocolate Made by Mother Nature,” printed on July 29, the correct name of the chocolate company is Raaka Chocolate. In the same edition in the story “Mocktail Hour,” the correct quantity of club soda for the Fauxdi Gras cocktail recipe is 1 1/2 ounces. Epoch Times regrets the errors.
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August 5–11, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com PAUL WAGTOUICZ
NY WHISKY CRUISE 2016
OLYMPICS BEERS AND SUMMER BEER FLOATS AT TREADWELL PARK
Join the Whisky Guild aboard the Spirit of New York Cruise Ship for their NY Whisky Cruise 2016. Attendees will sample their way through spirits from around the world, led by distillers, brand ambassadors, and industry experts in attendance, and enjoy a buffet dinner and dessert including fresh salads, meat, cheese, seafood entrees, and pastries. $137 to $172 per person.
Craft beer hall Treadwell Park is offering a special international beer menu to celebrate the Olympic Games. The menu available through Aug. 21 will highlight brews from Italy to Norway, along with a rotating selection from the Brazilian brewery Way Beer featuring Amazonian fruits like caju, the “cashew apple,” and gabiroba, a spicy fruit. Treadwell Park has also launched a summer series of beer floats, including The Big Island with Avery Liliko’i Kepolo and Caribbean coconut gelato, and The Bittersweet Symphony with Firestone Walker Easy Jack (IPA) and Pacific Northwest raspberry sorbet.
Thursday, Aug. 25 7 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Chelsea Piers, Pier 61 11th Avenue & West 21st Street whiskyguild.com
COURTESY OF TREADWELL PARK
Treadwell Park 1125 First Ave. treadwellpark.com
SWEAT SESSIONS IN THE MEATPACKING DISTRICT
Egg Sandwich on a toasted potato bun with truffle aioli. PAUL WAGTOUICZ
Get in shape at the Meatpacking District’s Sweat Sessions, a free, outdoor summer fitness series. Most Tuesday nights through August, brands such as Ash Fit, Lululemon, and Bari Studio will teach three 45-minute classes, from yoga to boot camps, at Hudson River Park’s 14th Street Park. Afterward, participants are invited to Samsung 837 for complimentary healthy bites and sips from local businesses. Selected Tuesdays through Aug. 30 6 p.m., 7 p.m. & 8 p.m. 14th Street Park West 14th Street & 10th Avenue thesweatsessions.splashthat.com
The Bittersweet Symphony.
Potato Pancakes, with Purple Majesty potato batter and sour cream.
COURTESY OF AMY’S BREAD
BROADWAY BEETS SANDWICH AT AMY’S BREAD SANDWICH The Broadway Beets sandwich, created by chef Lynn Bound of Feinstein’s/54 Below, is the next feature in Amy’s Bread’s Chef Sandwiches for Good charity program. The sandwich is made with roasted beets, pickled vegetables, Camembert cheese, and baby kale served on an Amy’s Bread New York State Whole Wheat Seeded Sandwich Roll spread with Arethusa sea salt butter. A portion of proceeds from each sandwich will benefit Broadway Barks, an annual dog and cat adoption event that helps over 25 animal shelters and rescue groups. Through Aug. 31 Amy’s Bread All locations amysbread.com
Chef Lynn Bound’s Broadway Beets sandwich on an Amy’s Bread roll.
HEAVY HITTERS SERIES AT MORGENSTERN’S FINEST ICE CREAM Morgenstern’s is collaborating with chefs Mario Batali, Marco Canora, Carlos Mirarchi, April Bloomfield, and Andrew Tarlow for a monthlong series featuring an exclusive new ice cream flavor every week. The series includes Mario Batali’s Molto Mario’s Modena Creamsicle, with sour cherry sorbet and mascarpone ice cream; Carlo Mirarchi’s Vamos a la Playa, with lime, coconut, and cilantro; and Andrew Tarlow’s Irishman’s Peach Cobbler, with yellow peaches and sweet Thai basil. Proceeds from the series will benefit the Food Book Fair. Through Sept. 4 Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream 2 Rivington St. morgensternsnyc.com
RODRIGO LIZARRAGA
NEW COCKTAILS AT EL ORIGINAL TX-MX The Hell’s Kitchen eatery has launched two new “Shush” (shandy and slushie) cocktails for Traveler Beer Company’s National Refreshment Day on July 28. The Lemon Shush is made with Curious Travel Lemon Shandy, housemade pineapple-lemon honey, and bitters, and the Grapefruit Shush is made with Traveler Grapefruit Shandy, lime juice, and housemade mint simple syrup. Through Sept. 5 El Original Tx-Mx 735 10th Ave. eloriginaltxmx.com
The Grapefruit Shush (L) and Lemon Shush cocktails.
BOOZY POPSICLES AT PAMPANO A new line of boozy, spiced popsicles is now available at Pampano’s. Beat the summer heat with flavors like Frozen Margarita with tequila, tamarind, and hibiscus juice, and Mezcal with mezcal, pineapple juice, and sea salt. Through Sept. 30 Pampano 209 E. 49th St. richardsandoval.com/pampano
Compiled by Crystal Shi/Epoch Times Staff
LATE-NIGHT BREAKFAST AT BOILERMAKER Satisfy late-night cravings at Boilermaker, now serving up a full breakfast menu from midnight to closing. Offerings include a variety of stacked pancakes, from Buttermilk to Red Velvet to S’Mores; an Egg Sandwich on a toasted potato bun with truffle aioli; and cocktails like the Benton’s Old-Fashioned with bacon-infused Four Roses Bourbon Yellow Label, maple syrup, and angostura bitters. Boilermaker 13 First Ave. boilermakernyc.com
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Fioro
Openings around NYC SIGNE BIRCK
Meyers Bageri Claus Meyer’s Copenhagen-based bakery concept is serving up danishes, rye bread, morning buns, and other traditional Danish breads and pastries in its new Williamsburg location, following a pop-up location at Margot Patisserie earlier this year. Meyers Bageri uses old-world techniques and local, heirloom grains milled in-house to make its flavorful breads. Other offerings include flaky danishes with seasonal fruits and compotes, housemade yogurt parfaits, and coffee from Brownsville Roasters, Meyer’s Nordic-style, global coffee program. The bakery will soon introduce soups and a rotating selection of warm sandwiches and flatbreads, made with local vegetables and cured meats. Open Monday to Friday from 8 a.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m.
667 Driggs Ave. (between Fillmore Place & Metropolitan Avenue) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 347-696-8400 facebook.com/meyersbagerinyc
Fioro, a fast-casual eatery led by Jeffrey Salamon (RamenCo) and culinary director Pasquale Cozzolino (Ribalta), is bringing authentic Neapolitan fare to the Financial District. The menu features Cozzolino’s famed Neapolitan pizzas, like classic Margherita with mozzarella, crushed tomato, basil, and extra-virgin olive oil; and freshly pressed panini on Cozzolino’s pizza dough bread, such as Prosciutto Cotto with mixed greens, fontina, and mushroom spread. Made-to-order pastas and weekly rotating specials and salads are also available. The restaurant is home to a full-service coffee bar with imported Italian coffee and espresso beverages from Miscela D’oro, along with a selection of Italian pastries baked in-house daily. Currently in soft open mode, the restaurant will have its grand opening on Aug. 9. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
191 Pearl St. (between Cedar Street & Maiden Lane) Financial District 646-870-7876 fioronyc.com
Blueberry Lemon Pine Tart.
COURTESY OF AMAMI
Amami Amami Bar & Restaurant, opened by Ako Sushi’s chef Nick Wang, features Japanese comfort food and contemporary cuisine. The menu features seasonal sushi and sashimi, ramen, yakitori skewers, and a variety of meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. For brunch, the restaurant offers options like Homemade Organic Azuki Whole Wheat Waffles and Oyako Don, free-range chicken with vegetables, onion, egg, and sweet soy dashi over rice. Wang sources local ingredients from sustainable fishmongers, free-range chicken suppliers, and organic farms. He also makes soy sauce and wasabi using traditional Japanese cooking techniques. Amami’s izakaya-inspired bar program, led by Christofer Moustakas, highlights Asian ingredients like lemongrass, lychee, and ginger, and draws inspiration from Japan’s whiskey, sake, and shochu culture. A selection of Japanese teas from Brooklyn-based Toby’s Estate rounds out the drinks menu. Open daily for lunch and dinner, and weekend brunch.
City Vineyard Choose between elevated indoor dining and casual outdoor eats at City Vineyard, a waterfront restaurant at Pier 26 launched by City Winery CEO and founder Michael Dorf. The main indoor restaurant highlights local ingredients and seafood dishes, such as a signature lobster roll with a wine lees-infused dough, while the rooftop cafe and pier-level terrace feature a seasonal menu of shared small plates and specialty items. A selection of 15 wines is available on tap. The outdoor dining areas are adorned with vine leaves— to create the feel of a wine garden—and offer views of both the city and the Hudson River. Open Monday to Friday from 5 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m.
57 Nassau Ave. (between Guernsey & Lorimer streets) Greenpoint, Brooklyn 917-909-1568 amamibk.com
Soy-glazed braised pork with scallions (R), which guests can stuff into buns (L).
Pier 26 at Hudson River Park 233 West St. (between Hubert & North Moore streets) Tribeca 646-677-8350 cityvineyardnyc.com
Paowalla At Paowalla, chef Floyd Cardoz (Tabla) celebrates his Indian heritage with traditional spices, flavors, and cooking techniques from his home country. The restaurant, whose name roughly means “a person who works with bread” in Hindi, features two tandoor ovens, a dedicated bread bar with a woodburning oven, and a special selection of breads and chutneys, from Rosemary Naan to Cheddar Cheese Kulcha and Mint Cilantro to Tomato Kalonji chutney. Small plates include Roasted Green Chickpea Chat, with sweet onions, chilies, and tamarind, and Chicken Liver Masala with toasted pao (bread), while large plates include Hyderabadi
Recipe from Patsy’s Italian Restaurant. Our only location 236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com
MUSSELS MARINARA Makes 4 servings Seafood in tomato sauce has a long history in Neapolitan cooking. In fact, marinara sauce is named for the mariners who supposedly created it. As mussels were plentiful and cheap in both Italy and America, my grandparents made this at home often. We serve it at the restaurant, too, usually over linguine as a pasta or main course. As an antipasto, serve it with crusty bread…but I didn’t really have to tell you that, did I? • 2 pounds cultivated mussels, such as Prince Edward Island (see note below) • 2 cups cold water • 2 cups tomato sauce • 2 tablespoons dry white wine • 2 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley • Pinch of dried oregano • Freshly ground black pepper • Sliced Italian bread, preferably toasted in a broiler or on a grill, for serving 1. Put the mussels in a large pot and add 2 cups cold water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook just until the shells open, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the opened mussels to a colander, discarding any unopened mussels. Reserve the cooking liquid. 2. Line a wire strainer with moistened paper towels and set over medium bowl. Strain the cooking liquid through the strainer. Measure and reserve ½ cup of the strained liquid. (You can cool, cover, and freeze the remaining mussel cooking liquid for another use as a fish stock.) Wash and dry the pot.
Goat Roast with greenmarket kachumber (an Indian side salad), and Baby Shrimp and Squid with Savian Biryani, squid ink, and cilantro. The beverage program offers seasonal cocktails and wine, and reintroduces Tabla’s signature Tamarind Margarita, made with tequila, Triple Sec, tamarind paste, lime, orange, and simple syrup. Open daily for dinner, with brunch and lunch soon to come.
195 Spring St. (at Sullivan Street) Soho paowalla.com
COURTESY OF ATOBOY
43 E. 28th St. (between Park & Madison avenues) Flatiron 646-476-7217 atoboynyc.com
3. Bring the reserved cooking liquid, the tomato sauce, broth, wine, parsley, and oregano to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring often, until reduced to 2 cups, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with pepper. Add the mussels, cover, and cook until the mussels are reheated, about 3 minutes more. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Note: Cultivated mussels are a boon to the busy cook because they don’t need to be cleaned nearly as carefully as wild-harvested mussels. The most common come from Prince Edward Island near Nova Scotia, and are sometimes labeled with the abbreviation PEI. These just need a quick rinse under cold water and they are ready to cook. If you have wild mussels, scrub them well under cold running water. Using pliers, pull off and discard the hairy “beards” sticking out of the shells, and scrape off any barnacles. Soak the mussels in a big bowl or pot of salted ice water for an hour or two. Drain again. After cooking, when straining the liquid, leave any grit behind at the bottom of the pot. This recipe can be found on page 16 of my new cookbook “Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook.” A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.
✁
Pork Jowl with barley, ssamjang, and romaine.
Atoboy Atoboy, from husband-and-wife team chef Junghyun Park and manager Ellia Park, serves a seasonal, modern Korean tasting menu consisting of three banchan-style dishes and a choice of rice. Dishes include soybean sprout with king oyster mushroom, tofu, and mustard; eggplant with snow crab, tomato, and lemon; pork jowl with barley, ssamjang (a spicy-sweet sauce), and romaine; and tartare with oyster, radish top, and potato. A selection of a la carte side dishes, including different styles of kimchi and jangajji (pickled vegetables), are also available. The beverage
list offers wine, beer, soju, and three cocktails, such as the Hwayo Ginger Rosso, with ginger syrup, grapefruit, and premium soju. Park was chef de cuisine at Jungsik in Seoul, South Korea. The restaurant was number 20 on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list while he worked there. The restaurant’s plateware showcases Korean-based ceramic artisan Soilbaker, and servers wear aprons inspired by traditional Korean clothing. Open Monday through Saturday for dinner, with lunch soon to come.
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August 5–11, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com MICHAEL TULIPAN
Batter & Cream Artisan whoopie pie bakery Batter & Cream has opened its first brick-and-mortar location at Turnstyle, Columbus Circle’s underground shopping center. The Brooklyn-based bakery, founded by New York native Elizabeth Fife as an online business three years ago, offers a rotating selection of handmade, bite-sized whoopie pies. Fun flavors range from Cookie Dough and Double Chocolate to Fruit Loops and Strawberry Basil. Fife debuts a new flavor every month. Both individual pies and themed packs are available for purchase. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Turnstyle 59th Street Columbus Circle Subway Concourse 646-598-6156 batterandcream.com
Zora’s Cafe
Oro Father and son Vlado and Mike Celic have opened a casual Italian restaurant in Long Island City. Executive chef Scott Adriani’s seasonal, local menu features classic Italian dishes with a modern twist, like Buckwheat Cavatelli with dandelion greens, corn, and truffle vinaigrette; Berkshire Pork Chop stuffed with spinach and walnuts; and Sea Bass with white wine caper sauce. The restaurant also offers homemade thin crust and deep dish pizzas, with toppings such as duck confit, figs, and artichoke béchamel. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.
41-17 Crescent St. (between 41st Avenue & Queens Plaza North) Long Island City, Queens 718-729-1801 orolicrestaurant.com
Zora’s Cafe, from mother-daughter team Linda and Zora Browne, serves classic Southern soul food with a healthier upgrade. The menu is based on family recipes from Linda’s Mississippi-raised mother. Head chef Eugene McCall Jr. (formerly of Miller’s Near & Far, Mexicue, and Ida Mae Kitchen-n-Lounge) swaps lard for vegetable oil and uses hormone-free meats, freerange eggs, and other high-quality ingredients. Dishes include Fried Green Tomatoes, Hushpuppies, Zora’s Fried Chicken, Oxtails & Gravy, Peach Cobbler, and Sweet Potato Pie. Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options are also available. Open Tuesday to Friday for dinner, and Saturday and Sunday for lunch and dinner.
Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.
The Nuaa 1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) • 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com
712 Ninth Ave. (between 48th & 49th streets) Hell’s Kitchen 212-757-5888 zorascafe.com
COURTESY OF LATIN BEET
Latin Beet Kitchen Latin flavors meet healthy eating at Latin Beet Kitchen, a new breakfast and lunch eatery opened by brothers Roger, Jaime, and Felipe Torres. It’s located in the repurposed front dining area of Raymi’s Peruvian Kitchen, their Peruvian restaurant and pisco bar. Breakfast includes Toasts with toppings like avocado, fried egg, and asparagus, or 70 percent dark chocolate, banana, and raspberries; and Arepas (organic white corn cakes) with toppings from goat cheese and smoked salmon to queso fresco and radish. For lunch, the kitchen offers a selection of chef-created and customizable bowls, with a grain or vegetable base, protein (organic Peruvian chicken, anticucho steak, salmon ceviche), vegetables (roasted carrots, charred broccoli), a topping (carrot slaw, pickled radish), and a traditional Latino sauce. The drinks menu features Colombia-based Devoción coffee from single-source beans delivered weekly, alongside aromáticas (infused waters), kombucha, and tea. Open daily for breakfast and lunch.
43 W. 24th St. (between Sixth Avenue & Broadway) Flatiron 212-929-1200 latinbeet.com
Authentic Japanese GMO FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa
La Vegetariana Arepa.
157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
Compiled by Crystal Shi/Epoch Times Staff
Impossible Burger Debuts at Momofuku Nishi COURTESY OF IMPOSSIBLE FOODS
By Crystal Shi | Epoch Times Staff NEW YORK—The 100 percent animal-free Impossible Burger made its restaurant debut last week at Momofuku Nishi. The burger is an $80 million project led by Patrick O. Brown, M.D., Ph.D., founder and CEO of Impossible Foods Inc. The Redwood City-based company focuses on creating plantbased foods that have a lower environmental impact than animal-based ones—and still taste delicious. Its newest product looks, cooks, smells, tastes, and even bleeds like ground beef, but boasts a completely plant-based ingredient list, backed by extensive scientific research into what makes meat taste, feel, and act like, well, meat. The star of the show is heme, an iron-rich protein found in both animals and plants. It’s what gives the burger that characteristic meaty taste and bloody red color. When the burger is cooked, legume-derived heme catalyzes processes that transform a soup of basic molecules—amino acids, vitamins, sugars, and simple fats—into “literally hundreds of volatile compounds that are the unique, unmistakable, craveable flavor of meat,” Brown said. It’s the same process, he explained, that gives animal meat its flavor. Other key ingredients also play important roles: wheat protein provides chew and a slightly fibrous texture, coconut oil lends
richness and highlights fat-soluble flavors, and potato protein adds juiciness and helps the burger firm up when cooked. The result is something that behaves remarkably similarly to ground beef. It hits the pan with a satisfying sizzle—and unmistakably meaty aroma— and even browns around the edges as it cooks. But compared to a burger produced from a cow, the Impossible Burger takes a quarter of the water, one-twentieth of the land, and one-eighth of the greenhouse gas emissions to produce. So, how does it taste? In short: good. The browned crust is crispy and delicious, on par with the sear on a meat patty, and gives way to a juicy and convincingly “bloody” inside. It stands on its own as a solid burger. But when held up against its animal counterpart, it falls short. The texture is off, with an ever-so-slightly rubbery bite, and the flavor doesn’t quite nail the rich, fatty umami of a beef burger. It comes impressively close, and marks a groundbreaking feat for the plantbased foods industry. If you want to try one for yourself, head to Momofuku Nishi, where a limited number of Nishi Style Impossible Burgers will be available for brunch, lunch, and dinner. Chef David Chang’s take on the burger is topped with romaine, beefsteak tomato, pickles, and special sauce and served on a Martin’s potato roll with a side of shoestring fries for $12.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine
It looks like beef patty, it bleeds like a beef patty, but it’s not.
• Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
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August 5–11, 2016
www.EpochTaste.com
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Fill out our 4-minute survey and be entered to win. The Good Fork’s Rainbow Trout is layered with preserved Valencia oranges, plenty of fresh herbs, and a pool of beurre blanc sauce.
The Good Fork Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
Make Epoch Taste Even Tastier
We want to get to know you and your taste buds better, so we can continue to delight your senses.
Are You a Smart Restaurant Owner?
A new restaurant opens every day in New York City,
HOW DO YOU STAND OUT?
Celebrating 10 Years of Red Hook Favorites By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
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EW YORK—Water had completely flooded the restaurant. It was waisthigh on the ground floor; the basement, totally submerged. Chef Sohui Kim thought maybe a cosmic force was telling them to give up. The neighborhood, Red Hook, was one of the areas hardest hit by Hurricane Sandy. Most of the restaurant’s equipment was destroyed in the storm. The Good Fork, which Kim and her husband had built together, was badly damaged. Kim wasn’t sure what to do next. But then she started getting notes in the mail. One pair of diners wrote about how the restaurant had been the site of their first date, and later, their engagement. They enclosed a $100 bill, “for the rebuilding effort,” they wrote. Many more notes came. “It was the first time I realized it wasn’t just mine and Ben’s restaurant, it’s the people’s. We share it with customers,” Kim said. “It made a difference to people.” Together with neighbors, staff, and customers, Kim rebuilt the space. This year is The Good Fork’s 10th anniversary. The restaurant’s quaint environs and elegant, unshowy takes on familiar dishes have solidified it as a neighborhood mainstay. Kim and her husband, Ben Schneider, settled into Red Hook in the early 2000s, charmed by the area’s old-world, small town feel. She envisioned a “globe-trotting bistro” that would incorporate flavors from different parts of the world. Schneider designed the interiors in a similarly homey style, with warm lighting, framed paintings on the walls, and backyard seating underneath a shady tree. Kim’s Roasted Free-Range Chicken dish is classic French with Chinese flair ($23). The chicken is prepared French-style, while the
The surprising elements in the dishes are often subtle.
The Good Fork 391 Van Brunt St., Brooklyn 718-643-6636 goodfork.com
Hours Tuesday–Saturday 5:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m. Sunday 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 10 a.m.–3 p.m.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Do what our fabulous clients did and partake in our smorgasbord of offerings to grow your customer base!
We have increased sales and we’re getting new customers. Mie Okuda, owner and chef, Momokawa
Interested? GET IN TOUCH!
advertisenow@epochtimes.com 212-239-2808
Epoch Times • 229 W. 28th St., Floor 5 • New York, NY 10001 The restaurant’s outdoor seating is decorated like a homey backyard, shaded by a verdant tree.
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August 5–11, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
COURTESY OF THE GOOD FORK
Patrons enjoy a drink in the backyard patio seating area.
SO FRESH!
Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! 60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com
The highlight of this Roasted Free-Range Chicken is the super-savory sauce made with fermented black beans, butter, and shallots. COURTESY OF THE GOOD FORK
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
Chef Sohui Kim’s homemade dumplings are made with love (also, pork and chives).
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria
gravy-like, umami-concentrated sauce is made by reducing chicken stock, Chinese fermented black beans, Shaoxing wine, shallots, and peppercorns. Butter is added right before serving. The sauce is like a more luscious version of the kind found in Cantonese stir-fried noodles— incredibly savory, and ideal for mixing with the mound of potato-parsnip mash atop. It’s at once comforting and sumptuous. “But people don’t have to know that it took hours to make that sauce,” Kim said. The surprising elements in the dishes are often subtle. The Fried Green Tomatoes, dipped in a light beer batter made with Sixpoint Brewery “Brunt” Ale, is paired with serrano ham and anchovy mayo—an unexpected blend of creamy and fish-sauce-esque funky ($13). A seasonal dish of Grilled Summer Squash is embedded in a moreish romesco sauce, with a little more heat than usual ($13). The chef de cuisine, Sam Filloramo, was inspired by a staff member from Mexico who showed him how to cook with dried and smoked Mexican chilis. Filloramo toasts cubed pieces of bread with guajillo, chile de árbol, chipotle, pasilla, and other chili peppers in olive oil, before adding Korean chili flakes. The staff at The Good Fork like to learn from each other. A new iteration of the Rainbow Trout dish came from a line cook, who COURTESY OF THE GOOD FORK
COURTESY OF THE GOOD FORK
The Good Fork Burger, made with all-natural ground beef. wanted to pay homage to the Mediterranean tradition of pairing fish with preserved lemons ($29). The mild-flavored trout becomes a canvas for picking up the flavors of preserved Valencia oranges, wood sorrel, fennel, and torn herbs accompanying it in a refreshing, light salad, brightened by a drizzle of coriander vinaigrette. Everything is given a buttery finish by the pool of beurre blanc sauce underneath. As a restaurant that also celebrates its own neighborhood, it’s only apt that The Good Fork’s dessert menu includes Steve’s Authentic Key Lime Pies, a long-running pie shop located off the pier in Red Hook ($8 for a slice). Its pies are made from freshly squeezed key limes, made into a lovely custard that has just the right hint of tang. The Buttermilk Panna Cotta also makes for a pleasant summer ending: clean, slightly savory, and topped with pucker-up-tart berries ($9). There’s just enough sweetness to tease your taste buds. Now, Kim says the restaurant has finally recovered financially from the Sandy aftermath. It’s a new era, to be celebrated with an upcoming cookbook featuring The Good Fork’s most memorable dishes. “It’s [the restaurant] dear, dear to our hearts. It’s like your first baby,” Kim said.
Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939 Chef Sohui Kim with her husband, Ben Schneider, who designed and built the restaurant.
Grilled Summer Squash, dressed with sheep’s cheese and a romesco sauce made from Mexican chili peppers.
Awarded One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
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August 5–11, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Edible Balloons, Frozen Treats
ALL PHOTOS BY BEBETO MATTHEWS/AP
Museum of Ice Cream open until Aug. 31 By Ula Ilnytzky NEW YORK—Move over Willy Wonka. A temporary museum dedicated to all things ice cream is treating visitors to edible balloons, a Chocolate Chamber, a “swim” in a pool of faux rainbow sprinkles and, of course, scoops of heavenly ice cream. New York’s Museum of Ice Cream is the lifelong fantasy of 24-year-old co-founder Maryellis Bunn. The six-room tour begins with a free scoop of ice cream. At a press preview, the treat was topped with fruity cereal, marshmallows, and a guava-lime zest. In the next room, helium-filled, edible balloons produce giggles as visitors’ voices are transformed into high-pitched squeaks. Admission is free from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. After that, it costs $18 per person or $30 for two. The museum closes Aug. 31. The biggest attraction is a large pool filled with 11,000 pounds of confetti-colored sprinkles. Visitors can immerse themselves in the fake candy. Posted rules say: “make a wish,” ‘’dip at your own risk,” and “Caution: May cause spontaneous happiness.” Happiness was on the minds of Bunn and her co-creator Manish Vora, who frequently asked,
The biggest attraction is a large pool filled with 11,000 pounds of confetticolored sprinkles.
What would Willy Wonka think?
One of the many installations at the Museum of Ice Cream.
“Are you having fun?” The two launched the project to fulfill Bunn’s childhood dream of swimming through a pool of sprinkles. They also enlisted over 30 artists to create—what else?—ice cream-themed works of art. Each artist “brings a unique voice” to his or her creation, said Bunn. In a nod to Willy Wonka, the Chocolate Chamber is entered through a satiny brown curtain to a musical remix of “Pure Imagination.” A chocolate fountain, free chocolates, cocoa bean shards on the floor, and an immersive chocolate video can be viewed from the comfort of a large bean bag. Elsewhere, visitors can suck on a dehydrated Miracle Berry that can alter the sourness of lemon slices atop an ice cream cone into a sweet delight. The tour ends in TinderLand, a playground
featuring an ice cream scoop seesaw and an ice cream sandwich swing for two. Visitors also can discover “who they are as a flavor” through an app created with Tinder, said Vora. In addition to specially created ice cream by food scientist Irwin Adam, of Future Food Network, the museum each week will offer custom frozen treats from one of the city’s favorite ice cream shops, including Black Tap and OddFellows. “It’s a lick-able, likable ice cream-centric experience,” said Bunn. And if you aren’t completely satiated by the end of the tour, you can savor a different kind of experience across the street at the Whitney Museum of American Art or the nearby High Line.
(Clockwise from top left) Sucking on a Miracle Berry (not pictured) alters sour taste into sweet, such as when tasting lemon slices atop an ice cream cone; a wall featuring a series of hanging ice cream cone light bulbs; visitors “swim” in a large pool filled with faux sprinkles; Eden Neville assists with creating an edible balloon.
From The Associated Press
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
LAND OF
LAKES
Finger Lakes continued from D2 “Siri!” one woman called out to him, “I talk to you all the time on my phone!” There were smiles and conversation all around, and no one was rushed. The staff was beautifully adept at making you feel at home. Local Community I found a friendliness to the people in the Finger Lakes area that was just irresistible, and I kept meeting people who had moved there for that very reason. One of of them was chef Michael Murphy, who divides his time between the Finger Lakes, where he caters and operates a B&B called SugarHill, and New York City. “We’re in a beautiful setting to begin with. Life is a little slower but we get to enjoy it. How many people did you see in the lake?” he asked me. Not very many, I responded. Murphy, who is originally from San Jose, California, said the region reminds him of what
One of the joys of the Finger Lakes is how approachable everyone is. Michael Murphy, chef and owner, SugarHill
Seery Chamberlain attends to a group at the Ravines Wine Cellars wine tasting room in Hammondsport, N.Y. Enjoying the view from Castel Grisch Winery in Watkins Glen, N.Y. Sonoma used to be 15 to 20 years ago. “One of the joys of the Finger Lakes is how approachable everyone is—extremely friendly. They don’t have an air of ‘I’m the owner’ and you’re just as likely to walk in catching them cleaning the floor,” he said. Murphy told of potlucks with winemakers: “They’ll bring their own bottles, but they’ll drink beer.” From a chef’s perspective, “the Finger Lakes is basically the breadbasket of New York state,” he said. He buys his produce from Mennonite farmers. “They don’t even call their food organic, it’s just produce for sale.” At the stands where he gets the produce, the farmers aren’t even there. There’s just a small can where people can leave money. The same goes with the flowers he gets from “the flower lady” just outside Geneva. “To me it wouldn’t be the Finger Lakes if it weren’t for the community,” he said. For more information on the Finger Lakes wine region, see fingerlakeswinecountry.com
Pouring a glass of cabernet franc at Hermann J. Wiemer.
Snug Harbor in Hammondsport, N.Y., sits on the edge of Keuka Lake.
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August 5–11, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/RICHARD DREW
Chrissy Teigen Offers a Variation on the Caprese Salad By Elizabeth Karmel The caprese salad of fresh mozzarella, basil, and tomatoes is universally loved. I personally make it all summer long and although I mix up the tomatoes based on what I can buy at the farmers market, it is virtually the same every time. Since it is tomato season and we waited a long time for this moment, I looked for a new take on a summer favorite—and found it in “Cravings,” model Chrissy Teigen’s cookbook that she co-wrote with Gourmet magazine alumna Adeena Sussman. Teigen adds a few new elements: She uses burrata—fresh mozzarella with a creamy center— and cuts the tomatoes in different shapes and sizes—some slices, some wedges. She omits the traditional basil and adds arugula and delicious, crunchy prosciutto chips, which take
this caprese from ordinary-good to extraordinary-great. The prosciutto chips (she calls them crisps) are easy to prepare and make such a difference that I can’t believe that I never thought of baking thin slices of prosciutto. You can substitute them in almost any recipe that calls for bacon. Once the prosciutto bakes and cools, it is crispy and crunchy, salty and addictive. You’ll find this a welcome addition to an already popular summer recipe. Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pit master at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and the author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.” From The Associated Press
RECIPE CAPRESE SALAD WITH CRISPY PROSCIUTTO Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Servings: 6 • 4 cups baby arugula • One 8-ounce ball burrata or fresh mozzarella cheese • 2 pounds assorted ripe tomatoes cut into a variety of shapes (wedges, slices, chunks, and so on) • 3 tablespoons best-quality olive oil • 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar • 1–2 teaspoons kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 6–12 prosciutto crisps (recipe follows)
DIRECTIONS Scatter the arugula on a serving platter, and
place the cheese in the center. Arrange the tomatoes around the cheese. Cut a small opening in the cheese ball so you can see the center, and then drizzle olive oil all around the platter. Drizzle balsamic vinegar on the tomatoes and arugula. Season the entire salad with the salt and pepper, and top with the prosciutto crisps. For the Prosciutto Crisps Heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange the prosciutto in a single layer on the baking sheet. Bake until wrinkled and slightly shrunken, 11 to 13 minutes. (It will crisp as it cools.) Cool, eat whole as a snack, or crumble and use as a garnish for salads, eggs, or anything that could use crispness and ham. (For me, that’s everything.)
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
Adapted from “Cravings: Recipes for All the Food You Want to Eat” by Chrissy Teigen
Find Out Why Classic Swiss Fondue Never Went Out of Style By Katie Workman Food as fashion has never made a lot of sense to me. Kale is out (no, not really), jackfruit is in, and so on. But guess what? In Switzerland, the birthplace of fondue, the creamy cheese dish never went out of style. And once you make up a pot for your crew, you will realize why the Swiss never ever considered letting it go the way of the Jell-O mold. When preparing your fondue feast, don’t overheat the cheese, and add it to the pot slowly. Melting cheese gradually over a low temperature helps keep it smooth, not clumpy or stringy. If your fondue gets clumpy, add either a bit more wine or a couple of teaspoons of fresh lemon juice. The classic item to dip into cheese fondue is bread cubes, but there is no reason to stop there. Crackers, vegetables, even meats, or fruit—anything that goes well with cheese is fair game. If you don’t have a fondue pot, you can still make fondue and just serve it in the pot you cooked it in. Reheat it, stirring, as needed. Or just eat fast! Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” From The Associated Press
RECIPE CLASSIC SWISS FONDUE Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Servings: 8–10 • • • • •
Garlic clove 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 pound grated Gruyere 1/2 pound grated Emmenthal (or Emmental) cheese • Freshly ground black pepper to taste • 2 teaspoons kirsch (optional) For Serving • Cubes of firm, day-old bread • Lightly steamed asparagus, broccoli, and cauliflower florets, or carrots • Cherry tomatoes • Strips of bell pepper • Apple or pear slices
DIRECTIONS
KATIE WORKMAN VIA AP
Rub the inside of a heavy pot, such as an enameled cast-iron pot, with the garlic clove. Add the white wine, and heat over medium heat until hot. Toss the grated cheese in a bowl with the cornstarch. Add that mixture to the pot a little at a time, stirring all the while, until the cheese is melted and the mixture is smooth. Season with pepper. Meanwhile, arrange the bread and other dipping items attractively on a serving platter. If you have a fondue pot, light the flame under it, and transfer the fondue to the fondue pot. Let everyone spear the food of their choice with fondue forks or other small forks, and dip away. Recipe by Katie Workman
212-594-4963
10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
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August 5–11, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com MICHAEL VITO VIA AP
MICHAEL VITO VIA AP
Characters from the anime series “The Eccentric Family” on a sign on an Eizan Electric Railway train in Kyoto, Japan, in October 2014.
Fan art inspired by the anime series “Tamako Market” at the Demachi Masugata Shotengai shopping street in Kyoto in October 2014.
Fans Hunt Real Places in Japan Featured in Anime By Linda Lombardi
T
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
OKYO—Everyone’s surprised that Pokemon GO is getting people out from behind their screens and out of the house. But Japanese animated creations have a much longer tradition of sending people out on real-world adventures, although in a very different way. The settings of Japanese anime series are often closely based on real locations. Places like shrines and train stations featured in these cartoons are often hunted down by fans on visits called seichijunrei, which translates as “holy land pilgrimage.” Local governments and businesses sometimes even promote the connections to well-known places, decorating train stations with characters or selling souvenirs at shrines. But there’s a more challenging version of the pursuit: a subculture of hobbyists who hunt for everyday streetscapes, shops, and train stations reproduced in these cartoons in exquisite detail. Called butaitanbou, which translates as “scene hunting,” it’s not as simple as it might sound. Town and neighborhood names are often unmentioned or even changed in shows, so that’s the first thing to figure out. Then, it’s not just about identifying a big landmark, but about finding specific, often very mundane places. Imagine that your own local dry cleaner and playground was featured in a cartoon and someone from out of town had to find them. “Butaitanbou implies that the hunter is doing his or her own location identification,” said Michael Vito, an American who often visits Japan for anime tourism and who is one of the few English speakers who writes about the hobby. “To do butaitanbou is to be a pioneer of sorts.” Photos are taken of sites exactly as they appear in the show. “Butaitanbou generally
Imagine that your own local dry cleaner and playground was featured in a cartoon and someone from out of town had to find them.
LINDA LOMBARDI VIA AP
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Prayer plaques at the Kanda Shrine in Tokyo, a setting for the anime series “Love Live! School Idol Project,” in December 2015. MICHAEL VITO VIA AP
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
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A visitor’s notebook for fans of the anime series “Tamako Market” at the Demachi Masugata Shotengai in Kyoto, Japan, in October 2015.
requires composing and cropping photographs to precisely match the way they appear in the art,” said Vito. The photos are then displayed next to corresponding screenshots in blog posts. An easy place to experience seichijunrei is Kanda Shrine. It’s a short walk from the fan mecca of Akihabara, where anime fans typically go on their first trip to Tokyo. A central setting for the anime “Love Live! School Idol Project,” the shrine has capitalized on this connection with various items for sale. Prayer plaques, which you’ll see at other shrines illustrated with seasonal motifs or religious imagery, here have illustrations of characters. And fans don’t settle for just that: Many add their own drawings to the blank side where people write their prayers. Of course a location like that is so easy to find that it lacks the thrill of discovery. Vito says serious butaitanbou fans of that series visited the Akihabara locations mainly for the sake of completeness. What sparked more enthusiasm was an episode in the second season where characters take a spur-of-the-moment train trip to the shore town of Odawara in Kanagawa prefecture. “The trip to Odawara requires a much higher commitment and confers greater bragging rights,” he said. Japan’s other tourist capital, Kyoto, offers an example of how a very ordinary place can become an attraction. Demachi Masugata Shotengai is a traditional shopping street where locals go to the fishmonger, produce vendor, or pharmacy, or eat at a neighborhood restaurant. But it’s also the model for the shopping street that was the setting for “Tamako Market.” Three years after the series ended, fans still visit a fish shop there. A notebook is left outside for visitors to sign; they’ve filled 11 notebooks already. These notebooks are commonly installed near some significant location where fans can get a local to take custody of them. “The custodian and site are often a commercial business, like a cafe or shop, but shrines and other historic sites and even countryside train stations are known to lend a hand,” said Vito. Voice actors and animators sometimes visit and leave an entry, and these pages get marked for visitors to find. Even fantasy series are often set in precise real locations. Kyoto is also the setting for “Uchoten Kazoku” (released in English as “The Eccentric Family”), about a family of mythological shape-shifting animals called tanuki. Their fantastic escapades are set in real Kyoto locations, and fans may visit the shrine where they lived in their animal form and a billiard parlor they frequented when disguised as humans. One episode included a surreal fantasy trip on a car from the Eizan Electric Railway, which in real life regularly does tie-ins with anime series, and at one point used the characters on signs reminding riders to watch the closing doors. Despite the rise in overseas visitors to Japan and increased access to translated anime online, English-language material about visiting anime locations is scarce. One place to start is Vito’s blog, likeafishinwater.com, where he writes about current series and reports on discoveries from butaitanbou pioneers. Another blog, by Mike Hattsu—mikehattsu.blogspot. com—includes maps for locations he’s visited, along with screenshots and photos. If you want to try to delve into Japanese language blogs, Vito recommends starting with the Butaitanbou Archive, legwork.g.hatena. ne.jp. You can usually find the Japanese name of a series in its English Wikipedia entry, which you can paste into the search box. Warning: If you’ve got the slightest interest in Japan and animation, you may find yourself sucked into hours of looking at photos—even if you aren’t planning a trip. From The Associated Press