Epoch Taste 7-31-2015

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COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

D1 July 31–August 6, 2015

10 Fresh Ideas for Using

Korean Gochujang D11 D8

www.EpochTaste.com

Barilla Restaurants In a New York Minute, a Plate Full of Pasta, a Belly Full of Happy on’t mess with Italians when it comes to pasta. You only have to look to the Italian language for evidence of pasta’s pervasive presence in Italian culture. If you want to say “the icing on the cake,” the saying goes “come il cacio sui maccheroni,” translated as “like cheese on macaroni.” Even screen siren Sophia Loren has sung its praises, saying, “Everything you see I owe to pasta.” See Barilla on D2

COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

The classic Spaghetti al Pomodoro, with crushed tomato sauce and fresh basil. COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

A vertical garden supplies herbs for the dishes, from basil to rosemary.


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July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

Deliciously Sponsored

The Ruspante Salad, with mixed greens, rosemary chicken, apples, caramelized walnuts, croutons, and honey mustard.

Barilla Restaurants

BarillaRestaurants.com Midtown Location 1290 Avenue of the Americas (at 52nd Street) 646-559-2206

Bryant Park Location 1065 Avenue of the Americas (at 40th Street, across from Bryant Park) 646-665-3816

Hours Monday–Friday 8 a.m.–10 p.m.

Hours Monday–Friday 8 a.m.–11 p.m.

Saturday & Sunday 9 a.m.–10 p.m.

Saturday & Sunday 9 a.m.–11 p.m.

COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

The Midtown location of Barilla Restaurants at Avenue of the Americas and 52nd Street.

HARMONY THE SPIRIT OF SUSHI ZEN TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN

108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

The creamy tiramisu. Make sure to dig to the bottom, where the ladyfingers have soaked up all the flavors.

Barilla Restaurants In a New York Minute, a Plate Full of Pasta, a Belly Full of Happy Barilla continued from D1 Besides the “nonnas” (grandmothers), one of the staunchest guards of the pasta traditions is Academia Barilla, a culinary institute founded by the Barilla company. It’s not unusual for Italian restaurants to create their own products for sale. But it’s not every day a popular food brand launches its own restaurant chain. That’s what Barilla has done—and not in its native Italy, as one might expect, but right in the heart of Manhattan. Pasta is serious business at Barilla Restaurants. On the restaurant wall hangs an enormous blackand-white photo, superimposed with the question, in graffiti-like font: “Di che pasta sei fatto?” Literally, it means “What pasta are you made of?” but it really means, “What stuff are you made of?” Barilla is a giant in the pasta world. Founded in 1877 in Parma, Italy, and now led by brothers Guido, Luca, and Paolo Barilla (of the fourth generation), the company lends a helping hand to a lot of hungry eaters around the world. Barilla now distributes products in over 100 countries and is the most-consumed pasta in the United States. Many might recall as small children the dark blue boxes of Barilla spaghetti coming to the rescue at dinnertime—add some tomato sauce and grated Parmesan, and dinner is done—a mercy to harried working parents, and a delight to hungry children who love nothing better than the comfort of pasta (well, besides the sweet promise of dessert afterward). Speaking of spaghetti, Barilla makes over 90,000 miles of the slender strings a year— enough to go around the Earth four times. Barilla has now set its sights on the restaurant universe, with locations across from Bryant Park (which opened this spring) and on 52nd Street in Midtown East. A third location in Herald Square is in the works.

Simplicity is the genius of Italian cuisine. When you have high-quality ingredients, they speak for themselves. COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

Get everything from pizzas, pastas, salads, to desserts through its handy online ordering platform. For ultimate convenience, Barilla offers delivery and pickup through its website, as well as catering.

On weekdays, when the clock is close to striking noon, throngs of workers and tourists flock to the eateries. Unfailingly, lilting sounds of Italian can be heard among the crowd—Italians of all ages who no doubt miss the food from home. Regional specialties of Italy are reflected throughout the menu: Tagliatelle Bolognese from Emilia-Romagna ($10.95), or Farfalle Genovesi from Liguria ($9.50), for example—recipes all developed by the company’s culinary institute. There are a few nods to American preferences, such as Spaghetti e Polpettine ($10.50), in a delicious tomato-basil sauce with meatballs, or to modern sensibilities, like a quinoa salad with a light lemon dressing ($9.95). Fast and Delicious The whole idea behind pasta is that it’s quick to make, although you wouldn’t know it from the wait at some Italian restaurants. But at the fastcasual Barilla Restaurants the speed is unbelievable—diners come in, place their orders at either of two lines, and sit down at their tables with a number. In the vast majority of cases, the dish is brought over to them in less than five minutes. The result: delicious dishes with an oh-socomforting, home-like quality—seasoned just so, with a mercifully light hand. The ingredients are strikingly few in each dish—in most cases no more than a handful, from the classic Spaghetti al Pomodoro ($8.95) with crushed tomato sauce and fresh basil to Linguine Mare Blue, with shrimp, zucchini, and extra-virgin olive oil ($12.50). But the simplicity is the genius of Italian cuisine. When you have high-quality ingredients, they speak for themselves—for example, sweet tomatoes, fragrant fresh herbs, extra virgin olive oil, and pasta perfected over almost 140 years. The staff is dressed in soccer-inspired jerseys, the backs of which might say “Spaghetti 5” or “Linguine 13” (the different Barilla pasta cuts


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July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

(Clockwise from top L) The “mercato” or market offers specialty Italian products; Alfonso Sanna, the executive chef of Barilla Restaurants; Pizza Tricolore with fresh tomatoes, goat cheese, and arugula; a staff member gets ready for a round of deliveries. are numbered)—a clever way of bringing together two of Italy’s loves. And like “fútbol” players, the staff is quick. They are charged with bringing dishes to your tables when ready and clearing the table. They are not waiters, hence no tipping. Alfonso Sanna, the executive chef of Barilla Restaurants, has cooked for 30 years—15 years apiece in Italy and the U.S. He too is adept at the speed game. He astutely puts together recipes that can be assembled in a flash. The “ragù” in the Tagliatelle Bolognese takes no less than four hours to prepare—with vegetables and beef first cooked separately before a long simmer together—but the dish itself arrives piping hot on your table five minutes after you order, full of layered flavors that only time can impart. The menu features not only pasta dishes, but also paninis, pizzas, and salads. A machine thoroughly heats up paninis to a golden crunch in one minute. Among the mouthwatering options is the Ciabatta San Siro ($9.95, Italian sausage, roasted bell peppers, caramelized onions, and tomato sauce—someone clearly loves the beautiful sport: San Siro is the name of the stadium in Milan). And don’t overlook the Focaccia Caprese,

which displays the colors of the Italian flag ($9.50, with mozzarella di bufala, tomatoes, and homemade pesto Genovese). Attention is also given to the desserts, from a deliciously creamy tiramisu to “panna cotta” ($5.50 for either). The ambiance is lively and inviting, with wood and warm colors predominating. And the loveliest of touches is a vertical wall of fresh growing herbs—including fragrant basil, oregano, and mint—that the chef uses in the dishes. Every Barilla Restaurant also features a “mercato” (market) where shoppers can pick up staples like its namesake pasta, made with bronze die (making its surface more clingy for sauces). There are several kinds of olive oils—from more delicate bottles of Ligurian olive oil (delicately wrapped in foil to preserve it) to a grassier, spicy Tuscan oils. A long communal table graces the center of the dining room, lending a social, family-like feel. Founder Pietro Barilla might have envisioned this setting four generations back. He believed ardently in producing the best pasta he could, saying, “Feed people as you would feed your own children.”

PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu

COURTESY OF BARILLA RESTAURANTS

Morton’s World Trade Center

Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315

World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171

Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950

White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101

mortons.com Lasagna, layered with meat sauce and béchamel.

Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303


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July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF WALTER WLODARCZYK

COOK OUT NYC: CIDERFEAST Enjoy autumn favorites on a warm summer evening at Ciderfeast, featuring the best regional, national, and international ciders from over a dozen cider makers. More than 30 varieties, including Austin Eastciders, Descendant Cider, and Shacksbury, will be poured and perfectly paired with outdoor grillables and live folk music on the waterfront. With over a dozen food options, including unlimited hot dog samples from award-winning Starwurst Bratwurst, sliders grilled up by pitmaster Sam Barbieri, and many more, you won’t be leaving hungry.

stuff to eat and drink around town

Saturday, Aug. 8, 5 p.m.–9 p.m. East River Park. Tickets: $60. CookOutNYC.com

COURTESY OF HECHO EN DUMBO

NEW BOTTOMLESS FOOD (AND DRINKS!) BRUNCH AT HECHO EN DUMBO

It’s doubtful they realized we’d be going there when they decided to make brunch bottomless.

Craving Mexican food way before dinnertime? Look no further than Hecho en Dumbo. This contemporary Mexico City inspired restaurant now offers unlimited small plates for brunch every weekend for $20. The bottomless brunch menu from Chef Danny Mena is based on his signature “antojitos” (little whims) approach, serving up Mexican hangover cures like Chilaquiles Rojos con Cecina, featuring salt-cured steak and queso fresco; Huevos Motuleños served on corn tortillas with ranchera salsa; Torrejas—cinnamon-vanilla French toast smothered in maple syrup—and many more! For an additional $20, you can get unlimited cocktails too. Every Saturday & Sunday. 11.30 a.m.–4 p.m. 354 Bowery. HechoEnDumbo.com

SUSTAINABLE LOBSTER WORKSHOP Join Luke’s Lobster co-founder Ben Conniff for an evening all about Maine lobster and learn about learn the state’s exemplary sustainable practices benefitting the local community. As the sun goes down over the Manhattan skyline, you’ll get to cook and crack open your own lobster while sipping crisp white wine. The new Luke’s cookbook “Real Maine Food” will be available to all guests at a discount. Wednesday, Aug. 12, 7 p.m.–9 p.m. Brooklyn Navy Yard Farm, Flushing Avenue & Clinton Avenue. Tickets: $65. BrownPaperTickets.com/Event/1667904

COURTESY OF L’ALBERO DEI GELATI

SUMMER SERIES: GELATO CLASS Learn the art of gelato making—and tasting!—at L’Albero dei Gelati. Husband and wife team Alessandro and Monia will teach you the differences between ice cream, gelato, and sorbet, while sharing some of their favorite recipes and offering tastings of both savory and sweet concoctions. First opened in Italy in 1985, with its Brooklyn outpost launched in 2013, L’Albero dei Gelati uses organic ingredients from small producers, herbs from the backyard, and seasonal produce to make their all-natural (and additive-free) gelato. Wednesday, Aug. 12, 7 p.m.–9 p.m. L’Albero dei Gelati, 341 Fifth Ave. (between Fourth & Fifth streets), Park Slope. Tickets: $25. SFNYCGelato.bpt.me

AP PHOTO/VERENA DOBNIK

People dressed in white have dinner on Pier 26 along the Hudson during Diner en Blanc on July 28.

Over

50 Authentic

Spanish Tapas Endless combinations of flavors to share, or indulge on your own.

Come in and Pick Your Favorites Tonight!

Diner en Blanc: World's Biggest Popup Picnic

Meson Sevilla Restaurant

344 WEST 46TH ST. (BET 8TH & 9TH AVE.) • MESONSEVILLA.COM • 212-262-5890

NEW YORK—Five thousand people dressed in white got together for the world’s largest popup picnic at a location revealed only at the last moment. Guests for Tuesday’s Diner en Blanc, French for Dinner in White, showed up at one of 24 designated spots where the secret venue was disclosed. Then came the spectacle: dining and dancing under the open sky at Pier 26 on the Hudson River in Manhattan’s tony Tribeca neighborhood. Participants brought what they wanted for a chic BYO, including food, tables, chairs, and even silverware and candles. They also had to clean up after themselves. Wendy Chang, a Hawaii native who works for an architectural firm that helped build One World Trade Center, bought the white chairs she shared with friends at IKEA. While there, she also spotted the headdress she wore Tuesday night: a

white lampshade. “This is great for people watching,” she said. “I love it.” Cindy Joseph, a Brooklyn insurance analyst, called the evening “amazing.” “You meet great new people under the stars,” she said. Joseph said she and a friend brought their supplies on the subway. Each participant preregistered for the event, paying $30. Food and drinks were also available at cost. The phenomenon started in Paris in 1988 and has expanded to 60 cities on five continents, but organizers say the one in New York is the biggest. More than 125,000 people signed up this year. From The Associated Press


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July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town

Bar Goto

GABI PORTER

Bar Goto

Kenta Goto has opened Bar Goto, featuring Japanese small dishes and cocktails on the Lower East Side. Growing up in Tokyo, he worked at his mother’s restaurant and often visited the fashionable Ginza District where his father worked in the kimono business. On the wall at the bar hangs his grandmother’s 100-yearold kimono. The cocktails are an update on the classics and showcase Japanese ingredients such as yuzu, shiso, and miso. Goto, who earned the Spirited Award for American Bartender of the Year at the 2011 Tales of the Cocktails, credits his seven-year tenure at the Pegu Club and its owner Audrey Saunders for the inspiration to open his own bar. Cocktails include the Sakura Martini (Sake, gin, maraschino, and cherry blossom) and Umami Mary (vodka, miso, shiitake, lemon, tomato and Clamato). Japanese bar food from Chef Kiyo Shinoki from Bohemian accompanies the drinks. The selection includes savory cabbage pancakes, like The Classic, made with pork belly, rock shrimp, calamari, and yakisoba noodles.

COURTESY OF SCHALLER & WEBER

245 Eldridge St. (between Stanton & East Houston) 212-475-4411 BarGoto.com

Bar Goto, located on the Lower East Side, opened on July 28. GABI PORTER

There are the restaurants you go to, and

GABI PORTER

The Restaurant You Go Back to.

I YuzuCalpico Fizz.

n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many

Tako Sashimi.

Schaller’s Stube Sausage Bar Schaller & Weber, which has been making artisanal charcuterie since 1937, is opening a sausage bar named Stube Sausage Bar in Yorkville. “Stube,” which means little room in German, is located in a former 350-square-foot meat locker, and is selling breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For breakfast, grab some Intelligentsia coffee, Balthazar baguettes, or sausage sandwiches like the grilled Weisswurst on a pretzel roll with Schaller & Weber Bavarian sweet mustard. For lunch and dinner, pick from the seven signatures sausages, such as the The Berlin Wall, a 1/2-pound kielbasa with American cheese, crispy bacon, bacon jam and chicharones; or the Turkish-inspired Donner Kebrat, a bratwurst with Turkish salad, tzatziki and sriracha on pita.

celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).

Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant

236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.patsys.com

COURTESY OF SCHALLER & WEBER

The Schaller Double.

Schaller’s Stube Sausage Bar 1652 Second Ave. (between 85th & 86th streets) 212-879-3047 SchallerStube.com

The Saigon Special.

Miyazaki Super Prime Wagyu Beef $120.00

Authentic Japanese food served with a touch of class

W

hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Epoch Taste Puts Fire Breathing Burger to the Test

(service for two or more) eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert

$45/per person

Awabi Shabu-shabu

tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert $60/per person

Sake and Wine

When Juniper Bar debuted a Fire Breathing Burger packed with tongue-searing ghost peppers and served with sriracha aioli and spicy jack cheese, we knew we had to test it. The key words here are ghost peppers. These explosive little babies register over one million on the Scoville spiciness scale, making them among the hottest peppers on earth (that’s 400 times hotter than a medium chili pepper, to put it in perspective). We sent in a couple of guys from Epoch Taste to recon: Seth Holehouse, whose palate is as mild as his Midwest upbringing, and Rob Counts, who eats habaneros and ghost peppers fried up in a wok for a snack. Altogether we reckoned it was a good match for this fiery challenge. Curious to see what happened? We don’t want to give it all away, but let’s just say there were tears. Catch a video of their adventures at EpochTaste.com. Find the Fire Breathing Burger ($16) at:

white or red wines.

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —

Katsu & Sake

Signature dishes you won’t find in other Japanese restaurants

Juniper Bar

Discover the Hidden Gem in K-Town

37 W. 35th St. (between Seventh & Eighth avenues) 212-967-2511 JuniperBarNYC.com Fire Breathing Burgers and Cheese Steak Spring Rolls. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

The most special dish, reserved for special occasions across Japan. Try this amazing Pork Katsu at HanaMichi. Our unique preparation not only highlights pork, but also chicken, beef and vegetables! A dish worth gathering for!

Pork Katsu

“This is one of my favorite spots in K-town” – Zagat-

28 W 32nd Street, New York, NY 10001

212.736.5393 Men of Epoch Taste Seth Holehouse (L) and Rob Counts.

Ask about our sake tastings.

Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as

Lobster Mac and Cheese.

24 Hours Open www.hanamichinyc.com

Tonkatsu Ramen


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SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Heirloom Tomato and Watermelon Salad, dressed with olive oil and topped with smoked chili and Greek yogurt.

The Riff Randell.

Passing Through the Appalachian Trail by Way of Bushwick By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

ould it be that the Appalachian Trail runs through Brooklyn’s Bushwick neighborhood? Not really—it runs 30 miles north of the city. But among Bushwick’s colorful urban murals stands Montana’s Trail House, a rustic spot inspired by the legendary trail. Or more precisely, by the trail houses dotting the track, which are located several days’ walk from each other. The huts may be nothing more than three walls and an open front, but they transform each night, as complete strangers who hike the trail gather there to swap stories, books, and fellowship. Built on the site of an old gas station and then a garage, Montana’s Trail House might be mistaken as having an old Appalachian atmosphere, but that’s not the case. Founding partner Montana Mashbach said, “We’re not running around in cowboy hats or coal miner helmets.” “My vision comes from memories of hiking in the woods in northern America, being with your friends and bringing everything together to make an amazing experience,” he said, “and that sort of attitude where everyone pitches in to make this thing great.” The bar is made with repurposed wood from a Kentucky barn and in the library lining one wall, one section of shelves reveals itself to be a door leading outside. In the gardens and in flowerpots all around, you might find dill, kale, blueberry plants, arnica, and agastache—all of which are destined for your plate or glass. The bar offers a singularly strong tonic: switchel, a drink made of water, apple cider vinegar, and fresh ginger (preferably young), that traces its origin at least to colonial times. Try a bracing shot of concentrated switchel ($5), full of probiotics, at the bar and you’ll still be feeling it half an hour later.

Montana’s Trail House

445 Troutman Bushwick, Brooklyn 917-966-1666 MontanasTrailHouse.com Hours Monday–Friday 3 p.m.–4 a.m. Saturday 11 a.m.–4 a.m. Sunday 11 a.m.–midnight

Or get the Switch Back: a shot of Old Overholt Rye whiskey and a shot of switchel in equal amounts ($8). Mashback said, “We discovered it when we were building the place taking shots of whiskey, hanging out after 5 o’clock, then taking a bunch of switchel. We would wake up at 7:30, 8 o’clock, and be like, ‘We should really be hung over. Let’s not jinx this!” It’s clear that there’s a playful side reflecting the partners’ lifelong fascination with comic books. A look at the names on the cocktail list makes it clear; there’s the Flawless Victory, made with mescal and house made blood orange and arnica Montana bitters ($12); the Captain Stormalong, made with local whiskey, cider, and a grapefruit twist ($9); and more.

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Banana Bread S’More.

Cooking Like a Grandma Partner and head chef Nate Courtland, formerly of Esca, Al Di La, Union Square Cafe, and ICI, puts it succinctly, “I cook kind of like a grandma.” “I don’t mess with things,” he added. “It’s just really simple. The more you change it the more you lose what it’s supposed to be, which is food for nourishment.” These Courtland makes a point of blueberries, sourcing locally from farms in grown in the New York, Connecticut, Penngarden, will sylvania, and down South for eventually ingredients like grits from make it onto Anson Mills. your plate. The Heirloom Tomato and Watermelon Salad is simply dressed with olive oil, and the juices from the tomatoes and watermelon meld with the yogurt, to create the salad’s dressing as you eat ($13). If you come and get only one thing to eat at Montana’s Trail House, let it be the Master Fat Fried Potatoes served with black pepper aioli. These beauties are completely covered in salt

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES


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July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Soft Shell Crab Sandwich, with romesco sauce, pickles, and farm greens.

LUNCH SPECIAL STARTS FROM

$8

One of the bookshelves (a secret door!) swings out to the outside.

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

The #1 Korean Fried Chicken in Hell’s Kitchen New Gluten Free Choices

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My vision comes from memories of hiking in the woods in northern America.

Remedy Diner Open 24 Hours

Montana Mashbach, founding partner and then baked. “It dehydrates them and then they get really crispy once you flash them in the fryer,� Courtland explained. The potatoes are, for lack of a better word, intensely potato-ey—concentrated potato flavor. They are fried in the restaurant’s master fat—a term for the fat that Courtland saves up while he braises other dishes. The fat doesn’t go back, he said, if you eliminate the moisture. Instead you get fat that tells a tale of how it’s been used. “It becomes very complex. Sometimes it’s smoky, sometimes it tastes like a (L–R) Partners Denis Bramley, Montana Mashbach, Nate Courtland, and donut because there’s root beer-braised brisAustin Hartman. ket fat in it.� He also uses wintered over Yukon potatoes, SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES which are not as moist as a new crop of potatoes. They go like a charm with Courland’s Fried Chicken ($18), which he serves with a housemade hot sauce that takes about four months to make. The food may speak of “farm-to-table,� as is the modern trend, but it also says “comfort� and “rustic.� “In this space, we’re not going to serve modern cuisine,� he said, adding that they want to match the food to the rustic setting. “You may get a splinter as you eat our fried chicken, but you know, you’ll remember it,� he joked. On the menu you’ll also find Barnyard Trout, roasted whole with country ham ($23), Roasted Corn Hash with andouille sausage and tomato preserve ($10), and Seared Hanger Steak with spring onions, sun gold cherry tomatoes, and chipotle oil ($22). If you linger on to soak in the summer’s last rays or just the nighttime vibe, get a little If you go to something sweet. The fabulous Banana Montana’s, make Bread S’More ($8) should do nicely. Courtsure to bask in the land’s mother’s recipe benefits from glory that is Master caramelized edges, bittersweet choc- Fat Fried Potatoes. olate ganache, and toasted homemade marshmallow, with banana jam bread underneath it all.

245 East Houston Street New York (212) 677-5110

RemedyDinerNyc.com

HAPPY HOUR Mon & Tues 4-8 pm

2 for1

Beer or Wine At Joy Burger Bar, we are all about customizing your burger experience. With 3 burger sizes to choose from and 9 sauces to complement your toppings, you will always get what you want. EnJOY! Craft Beer # Wine # Fresh Salads # Hand Cut Fries

Catch the game on our 40� TVs

BUILD YOUR OWN BURGER at Joy Burger Bar

1567 Lexington Ave, New York (212) 289-6222

JoyBurgerBar.com


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July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com WITOLDKR1/ISTOCK

There’s No Cod From Cape Cod in Local Market By Lorelei Stevens

E

ASTHAM, Mass.—Step out of the hot, sunny day into the cool, fresh-smelling interior of Mac’s Seafood in Eastham and you’ll find a showcase full of glistening fish and shellfish nestled in a thick bed of ice chips. Bluefish, summer flounder, cod, and striped bass fillets, bluefin tuna, halibut, and swordfish steaks, monkfish tails, bright pink slabs of salmon, shucked Atlantic sea scallops, and whole squid, plus clams, oysters, and mussels in their shells. There are plenty of choices. But company co-owner Alex Hay doesn’t hesitate to say that his customers won’t Dogfish now find Cape Cod codfish in his fish maroutpaces cod ket—or in any other fish market in as the big catch the area. around Cape Cod has slipped almost entirely out Cod—6.3 million of reach for local fishermen over the pounds in 2014. last decade as stocks have contracted due to overfishing and environmental changes and quotas have been reduced to near nothing. The motto at Mac’s Seafood is “know where your fish comes from” and, for some time now, the cod in the case has been coming from big longline boats fishing out of Iceland. Other kinds of fish—such as haddock, pollock, hake, and varieties of flatfish—are seasonally available from some local boats with the proper permits and adequate quota allocations, but to keep that case fully and consistently stocked, Mac’s brings in product from all over the world. “We’re trying to be as authentic as we can,” Hay said, “but it’s not always easy when so much of the fish comes from far away.” To maintain Mac’s seafood traceability

We’re trying to be as authentic as we can, but it’s not always easy when so much of the fish comes from far away. Alex Hay, co-owner, Mac’s Seafood

commitment, Hay buys Marine Stewardship Council-certified Icelandic cod, which is flown in fresh to regional distributors. He also buys pen-raised salmon from Wester Ross, the oldest independent salmon farming operation in Scotland. The wild coho salmon in the case is linecaught and frozen at sea using an impeccable cleaning and processing procedure by a Washington state-based fisherman named Bruce Gore. Consumers looking for local seafood can find it at Mac’s and at other fish markets. It’s just likely to be shellfish, lobster or seasonal catches such as bluefin tuna or striped bass. “All of our shellfish is local—so local I can tell you the name of the person who harvested it. That’s very valuable to us and to this area,” Hay said. So what exactly are all those fishing boats moored in coves around the cape and islands doing? The top five species landed by local fishermen are spiny dogfish, skates, monkfish, Atlantic sea scallops, and lobster, according to Cape Cod Commercial Fishermen’s Alliance Communications Director Nancy Civetta. Lobsters and scallops are fish market and restaurant menu staples and monkfish may show up occasionally, but the Chatham Fish Pier is one of the few places to see “dogs” and skates. That’s where local boats line up to offload them so they can be boxed, iced, and forklifted into trucks headed off-Cape for processing. According to state data provided by the alliance, cape and islands fishermen landed 6.3 million pounds of dogfish in 2014. That com-

pares with 170,150 pounds of cod last year. Nearly all of the dogfish was exported to the United Kingdom to be used as the fish in Britain’s national dish, fish and chips. “You won’t find dogfish in your local fish market,” Civetta said. “Americans don’t eat it—at least not yet.” The fishermen’s alliance recently won a federal grant to try to build consumer and institutional interest and demand for dogfish in the United States. Steve DeLeonardis, owner of The Corner Store restaurant in Chatham and a new shop in Orleans, is doing his part to change attitudes— one burrito at a time. After experimenting with a variety of brining techniques to address texture problems, he settled on soaking dogfish fillets in milk overnight and is now using “Cape shark,” an alternative name for dogfish, on Fish Fridays at his Orleans bistro. His cooks serve it up Moroccan-style, seasoned with a spice rub of toasted cilantro, cumin, and a pinch of cinnamon and as Creole-style and pan-blackened “shark cakes” both in burritos and as salad toppers. “We like to be a little edgy,” DeLeonardis said. “Our goal when we opened in Orleans was to make that ‘our fish.’” Ironically, one of the biggest challenges the Corner Store faced in its mission to get dogfish on its menu was finding a consistent supply, because of strong export demand. “I’ve been trying to get it for years. But it goes from the boat to New Bedford. That’s where the problem is,” DeLeonardis said. “Nancy at the fishermen’s alliance has been instrumental in helping us get it in Orleans. Once the channels of distribution are clear, we can bring it to Chatham.” While a few smaller, fine-dining restaurants serve skate wings and it’s occasionally available in local fish markets, skate, too, is mostly exported. Fishermen’s alliance members have been donating skate and dogfish to whet consumer appetite to try something new—and give lower-income cape families locally sourced seafood. “The Family Pantry of Cape Cod picked up 2,000 pounds that they started distributing (on Thursday),” Civetta said. “That should take them through to distribution of the next species, dogfish, which is slated to begin on August 27.” The alliance also donated 500 pounds of skate wing fillets to the Falmouth Service Center and 250 pounds to the Cape Cod Hunger Network. “This is truly becoming a cape-wide program,” Civetta said. True local demand for abundant, undervalued species can’t come soon enough for local fishermen. “It’s a clean, sustainable fishery,” said Tim Linnell of the Chatham-based Perry’s Pride II. “We just can’t get any money for them—16 cents a pound for dogfish and 42 cents for skate wings. It’s hard to pay the bills with that. A few more cents a pound would make a whole lot of difference.” From The Associated Press via Cape Cod Times

Nuns Bake High-End Cheesecakes to Help Support Monastery

AP PHOTO/MIKE GROLL

By Michael Hill CAMBRIDGE, N.Y.—Amid quiet lives of prayer, a handful of nuns have sliced out a niche as bakers of high-end cheesecakes, so rich and creamy in flavors of chocolate, amaretto, and key lime that they seem downright sinful. But there are no transgressions here. In fact, money from the sales helps the sisters of New Skete sustain their small monastery in upstate New York. Though the sisters’ mastery of cheese fillings and cookie-crumb crusts is novel, the idea of nuns and monks selling their handiwork—the sisters’ larger cheesecakes can sell for more than $40—is not. Contemporary monasteries could easily stock a first-rate boutique with the likes of lip balm, chocolate bourbon fudge, greeting cards, herbal liqueur, Gouda cheese, and scented candles. The nearby monks of New Skete train dogs and breed German shepherds. On a recent baking day, the nuns tied kerchiefs on their heads before cutting into pillow-sized hunks of cream cheese, melting chocolate chips on a stovetop, mixing the thick batter and pouring it into circular forms. Sister Patricia, 82, loaded the unbaked cakes into the wide mouth of an oven fitted with five shelves that rotate like a Ferris wheel. Each of the roughly 220 cheesecakes came out of the oven that day only after she eyed each one carefully. “You make 220 decisions on whether the cakes are baked,” said Sister Patricia. “You get used to it, but you do need to know the look

of each flavor, they look different. And if you leave them too long, they crack.” The five nuns of New Skete (two more are in a nearby nursing home) live communally in a monastery near the Vermont state line under the aegis of the Orthodox Church in America. The youngest is 64 and some of them, like Sisters Cecelia and Patricia, have spent their adult lives as nuns. The roots of the cheesecake business here go back to 1969, when five Roman Catholic nuns from Indiana searched for a less cloistered life in a new monastery. They ended up in Cambridge near like-minded monks and began looking for ways to earn money. They cleaned houses, worked at the local hospital, and did upholstery work. One of the nuns, Sister Magdalene, had a talent for baking and in the mid ’70s tried selling cheesecakes to local restaurants. The cheesecakes were such a hit they added a bakery in 1983. Baking of the 4-pound cakes is now done one or two days a week, depending on the season. The nuns sell their cheesecakes online, at the monastery, and deliver to some stores in the region like Delmar Marketplace near Albany, where coowner Christine McCarroll said sales pick up during holidays. “When extended family gets together, we usually have one,” said customer Sandy Onderdonk, who especially likes the amaretto variety. “It doesn’t seem expensive because you don’t need a big piece.” From The Associated Press

Contemporary monasteries could easily stock a firstrate boutique with the likes of lip balm, chocolate bourbon fudge, and greeting cards.

Sister Patricia removes cheesecakes from an oven at New Skete Kitchens in Cambridge, N.Y. AP PHOTO/MIKE GROLL

Sister Rebecca handles frozen cheesecakes that will be packaged into sampler packs at New Skete Kitchens in Cambridge, N.Y.


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July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALLEN XIE

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Guilt-Free Fresh Fruit Popsicles: Frozen Memories of Childhood By CiCi Li Of the sounds etched into the record of childhood, for occasional retrieval from memory and playback for nostalgia, most of us can remember the ice cream truck jingle. Or in my case, growing up in Thailand, the sound of my beloved pedalpowered popsicle bike cart. Pardon my off-key warble, but I can’t resist intoning it for you, “Di di da, di di da, di di di di da!” When I was attending elementary school in Bangkok, that was the magical melody that I waited for every day. Usually by the second ‘da’, I was in mid-flight out of the house to handpick my favorite popsicle of the day. As the last mouthful of the sweet treat would dissolve, I would always end up with a charming little souvenir to keep the fun from fading too quickly: a free makeover on my lips. Sometimes it was a lovely pinkish hue and at other times, a more futuristic look, tinged with blue or green. Later I learned that these stunning colors are from artificial food coloring, which is apparently not all that healthy. In fact science has had a thing or two to say about that over the course of 30 plus years of research into the relationship between food coloring and hyperactivity in children, though to be fair the results remain rather inconclusive.

These homemade popsicles are delightful. Bite into one of these edible works of art!

Still, not being one to tempt fate, nor one to give up on tasty and colorful frozen treats, I decided on an alternative approach–rather than artificial pops, I freeze all kinds of real foodstuffs, from yogurt, chocolate milk, and fruit juice, to fresh fruit. And lived experience has me convinced this is a healthier way of giving in to the compulsion for frosty goodies than chomping on the store-bought kind! With the summer heat wave knocking at the icebox door, I would like to share with my readers this guilt-free fruit popsicle recipe I concocted. It’s quick, easy, and healthy. Plus, it’s a great way to get in your daily dose of vitamins and dietary fiber. These homemade popsicles are delightful to eat. Once you bite into one of these edible works of art, you first experience the refreshingly crunchy texture of the fruit and then–a grinning kid once again–you melt away in the yummy sweet abandon of a recollection from youth. Enjoy!

CiCi Li (R) makes all-natural popsicles from fresh summer fruit and pure coconut water.

CiCi Li is the host of “CiCi’s Food Paradise” on NTD Television. She’s also a food writer, and chef trainee. Join her on her adventures and discover the endless wonders of “Food Paradise” at CiCiLi.tv

RECIPE GUILT-FREE FRUIT POPSICLES Preparation Time: 5 minutes Freezing Time: 5 hours Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS • • • • •

6 ounces cranberry juice 6 ounces coconut water 1 cup blueberries 1 cup raspberries 2 kiwis, peeled, sliced

Equipment

• 6 popsicle molds

DIRECTIONS Place 2 blueberries, 2 raspberries, and 2 slices of kiwi into each popsicle mold. Pour cranberry juice into 3 of the popsicle molds. Then pour coconut water into the other 3 molds. Put them in the freezer for 5 to 6 hours, depending on the size of your molds.

AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD

You Won’t Miss the Meat or Cheese in These Hearty Burritos

This lime doesn’t just look pretty —a squeeze really brings the flavors together.

By Melissa d’Arabian Roasting is my default cooking method for just about any veggie. The high heat brings the natural sweetness of the vegetable to the surface and turns a simple little item from the produce aisle into a delectable treat. If 5 p.m. on a weeknight has sneaked up on me (It happens!), I automatically heat my oven to 400 F, rummage through my crisper drawer to find something to toss in a bit of olive oil and pop in the oven on a foil-lined baking sheet while I figure out the rest of dinner. And sometimes I make whatever is on that baking sheet the main part of dinner, skipping meat entirely. Hardy vegetables such as cauliflower, not to mention mushrooms, are great choices to star in place of meat in my roasted veggie burrito. They offer a nice hefty bite and a stand-andnotice-me flavor, which I need to satisfy my

normally carnivorous appetite. In this all-veggie delight, I added a quick-pickled cabbage, which does triple-duty: it adds texture, a cool freshness and a tang, all which make this a deeply satisfying meal for meatless Monday, or any day of the week. Adding fiber and filling healthy fats is some cubed avocado, which means I don’t even miss the cheese (especially with the cheesy goodness of nutty nutritional yeast!). No boring veggie burritos here! Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, “Supermarket Healthy.” MelissaDArabian.net From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD

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RECIPE VEGGIE BURRITOS Prep & Cooking Time: 45 minutes Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS • 1/2 large head cauliflower, cored and cut into very small florets • 8 baby bella or button mushrooms, sliced • 2 teaspoons olive oil • 1 teaspoon garlic powder • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 1/4 cup cider vinegar • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes • 1 teaspoon sugar • 1/2 small head red cabbage, finely chopped • 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced • 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast (optional) • Six 8- to 10-inch whole-grain tortillas • 1/2 cup purchased tomatillo salsa (or any favorite salsa) • 1 small avocado, pitted, peeled, and cubed • 1/4 cup plain Greek yogurt

DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment or foil, then mist with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, toss the cauliflower florets, mushrooms, olive oil, garlic powder, cumin, and a hefty pinch each of salt and pepper. Arrange in an even layer on the prepared baking sheet and roast until the cauliflower is golden brown and the

mushrooms are cooked but not dry, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, use a fork to mix together the vinegar, red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon of salt, and the sugar until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Toss in the cabbage and onion, mixing to coat, then set aside.

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Once the cauliflower and mushrooms are cooked, remove from the oven. Sprinkle the yeast flakes over the veggies (if using) and toss. If not using, give them another sprinkle of salt.

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Place the tortillas between 2 damp paper towels and microwave for 15 seconds to make them pliable. Divide the vegetables among the tortillas and top each with a sixth each of the pickled cabbage and onion, the salsa, avocado, and Greek yogurt. Roll up into burritos, leaving one end open.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 210 calories; 80 calories from fat (38 percent of total calories); 9 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 300 mg sodium; 27 g carbohydrate; 7 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 8 g protein.

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D10 July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP

RECIPE KOREAN MUNG BEAN PANCAKES Prep & Cooking Time: 7 hours (1 hour active) Makes: 10

INGREDIENTS For the Dipping Sauce • 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon rice vinegar • 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil For the Pancakes • 2 1/2 cups cold water, divided • 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided • 1 cup dried mung beans, rinsed • 2 tablespoons medium-grain white rice • 1/4 pound ground pork • 2 teaspoons minced garlic • 2 ounces bean sprouts (about 1 cup), coarsely chopped • 1/2 cup fine julienne red bell pepper • 1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions • 1 serrano chili, thinly sliced crosswise, with ribs and seeds (optional) • Vegetable oil, for frying

Classic Korean Pancakes Go Easily From Street Food to Dinner

DIRECTIONS To prepare the dipping sauce, in a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients. Cover and set aside until ready to serve.

By Sara Moulton Mung beans have been a staple of the cuisines of India, China, Korea, and Southeast Asia for thousands of years—and with good reason. They are a delicious and healthy source of protein and fiber. In the United States, we tend to know them mostly in their sprouted state, and by the rather simple name of “bean sprouts.” But they also are delicious when consumed prior to sprouting, as you would a bean. For this recipe, inspired by a classic Korean street food, the mung beans are soaked and ground, then combined with other ingredients to form pancakes that are fried. Called “bindaetteok” in Korea, they can be flavored with scallions, kimchee, or even ground pork. The batter is made ahead of time, then shallow-fried and served hot, with or without a dipping sauce. The resulting pancakes are robust with a crispy exterior and a creamy interior. This recipe calls for ground pork, but you can leave it out to make them vegetarian. You’re also welcome to swap in different vegetables, including shredded raw carrots or sautéed sliced mushrooms, or add some chopped kimchee. (There are all kinds of tasty brands of kimchee at the supermarket these days.) The frying technique here is very important. The pancakes are cooked in 1/4 inch of vegeta-

These pancakes are delicious all by themselves, but the dipping sauce puts them over the top. Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.”

ble oil. Which is to say, they are shallow-fried, not deep-fried. Even so, you’ll want to choose an oil with a high smoke point, such as peanut, safflower, or sunflower. The label will let you know if the oil is appropriate for frying. Also, the oil must be heated to the right temperature before the batter is added. If it is too cold, the pancakes will absorb the oil and become soggy. If it’s too hot, they’ll brown too quickly and not cook on the inside. How will you know when the oil is hot enough? It’ll start to shimmer. To test, carefully tip the pan so the oil pools on one side, then dip the handle end of a wooden spoon into it. If the oil is ready, bubbles should rise up immediately. Be careful not to crowd the pan with too many pancakes at a time, which cools down the oil. You want the temperature to remain constant. After the pancakes are done, they should be drained on paper towels to eliminate any excess oil. You can serve them as quickly as you cook them (just as you would with flapjacks on a Saturday morning), or stash them in a 200 F oven to keep warm. These pancakes are delicious all by themselves, but the dipping sauce—soy sauce, rice vinegar, and sesame oil— puts them over the top. From The Associated Press

To make the pancakes, in a small bowl whisk together 2 cups of the water and 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt until the salt is dissolved. Add the mung beans and rice, then cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours. After soaking, drain the beans and rice, and then transfer them to a blender. Add the remaining 1/2 cup water and purée until smooth. Set aside. Heat the oven to 200 F. In a large bowl, combine the pork, garlic and remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Mix well. Add the bean sprouts, red pepper, scallions and serrano, if using, and stir well. Add the puréed bean and rice mixture and stir until well combined. In a large skillet over medium-high, heat 1/4-inch of the oil. Reduce the heat to medium and, working in batches of 2, add 1/4 cup of the batter to the skillet for each pancake, flattening the pancakes with the back of a spoon. Cook until browned on the bottoms, 3 to 4 minutes, and then carefully flip the pancakes, using two spatulas if necessary, and cook until the second side is browned and crisp, another 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the pancakes to paper towels to drain. Once the pancakes have drained, transfer them to a baking sheet and set in the oven to keep warm. Repeat the procedure with the remaining batter.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per pancake: 170 calories; 70 calories from fat (41 percent of total calories); 8 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 10 mg cholesterol; 550 mg sodium; 17 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 2 g sugar; 8 g protein.

Pump Up the Flavor of Grilled Chicken With Korean Gochujang

We’ve been calling this method getting “gochujangified.” These thighs have been taken up a notch.

By J.M. Hirsch For many years, I was hooked on Thai red curry paste—a thick, unctuous seasoning that packs a little heat and a lot of savory deliciousness. It’s great whisked into vinaigrettes and marinades, smeared straight up onto steaks and chicken, blended into meatloaf and burgers, even puréed into hummus. Prior to that, I was smitten with miso, a Japanese seasoning paste made from fermented soybeans. It is crazy salty and savory and just a little sweet, and it can do so much more than just make the soup we all slurp at sushi restaurants. Vinaigrettes and marinades? Check. Corn and seafood chowders? Definitely! Meat rubs? Absolutely. But lately I’ve fallen for yet another Asian seasoning paste—gochujang, a Korean condiment made from chilies, rice, fermented soybeans, and a host of other ingredients. It tastes like a blend of sweet white miso and sriracha. It’s got kick, but it doesn’t overwhelm. It’s salty and savory, but sports just a touch of sweetness. And it is awesome on so many things. In this recipe, I turn it into a quick marinade for chicken thighs. You could stop there, just grilling the chicken, and then slapping the thighs on buns with a dollop of mayo and a slab of tomato. But I like to arrange the thighs on a platter and dress them up a bit with feta cheese and fresh mint. You then could eat them as is, or with hunks of flatbread. From The Associated Press

RECIPE GRILLED GOCHUJANG CHICKEN THIGHS WITH FETA AND FRESH MINT Gochujang is increasingly popular in the United States, and that’s making it easier to find. Check the international aisle at most larger grocers. It’s also widely available online and at Asian grocers.

Cooking Time: 20 minutes, plus marinating Serves: 6

INGREDIENTS • 3 tablespoons gochujang • 3 tablespoons rice vinegar or cider vinegar • 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce • 12 boneless, skinless chicken thighs • 1 cup cherry or grape tomatoes, quartered • 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese • 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint • 1/2 lemon • Ground black pepper • Flatbread (optional)

DIRECTIONS In a large zip-close plastic bag, combine the gochujang, vinegar, and soy sauce. Mix and mash until well combined, then add the chicken. Seal the bag, then overturn several times, or until all of the chicken is well coated with the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 4 hours. When ready to cook, heat the grill to mediumhigh. Just before cooking, use an oil-soaked paper towel held with tongs to coat the grates. Remove the chicken from the marinade and grill for 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until the chicken reaches 165 F at the thickest part. Transfer the chicken to a platter. Top the chicken with the tomatoes, then sprinkle the feta and mint over them. Squeeze the juice of the lemon over everything, and then season with pepper. Serve with flatbread, if desired.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 240 calories; 80 calories from fat (33 percent of total calories); 9 g fat (3.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 140 mg cholesterol; 610 mg sodium; 8 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 5 g sugar; 30 g protein.


D11 July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP

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for Using Korean Gochujang Chili Paste

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By J.M. Hirsch If you haven’t already seen gochujang—a thick, Korean chili paste—you very likely will—and very soon. Korean food has been enjoying an upswing in the United States in recent years, and one of the most popular ingredients to catch on has been gochujang. Think of it as a blend of miso (Japanese fermented soy bean paste) and Sriracha (that increasingly ubiquitous hot sauce), except gochujang is way more complex and (usually) not nearly as spicy as straight up hot sauce. Made from chili peppers, rice, fermented soy beans, and salt, gochujang has a savory-spicysweet flavor that’s particularly agreeable with meats and grilled or roasted vegetables. Though often used as a condiment in its own right, gochujang is also frequently used as a base of marinades, sauces, and soups. Thinned with a bit of rice vinegar, for example, it makes a great sauce for cooked vegetables. Because specific recipes for gochujang can vary widely, it’s good to try several brands to find one you prefer. Once you have, of course you can delve into classic Korean cooking. But it’s also fun to take gochujang outside its cultural context and put it to use in all sorts of cooking. Here are 10 of my favorites: 1. Bloody Mary Whisk a teaspoon or so of gochujang into tomato juice, then use in your favorite bloody mary cocktail. 2. Corn on the Cob Smear a liberal amount of gochujang over corn fresh off the grill. Or even better, mix together equal amounts of gochujang and softened butter, then use that. 3. Rub Smear a generous amount of gochujang over flank steak and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before grilling. Serve thinly sliced against the grain with additional

gochujang thinned with rice vinegar. 4. Vinaigrette Whisk together equal parts gochujang, cider or rice vinegar, and apricot jam. Use on robust salads or grilled vegetables, such as broccoli and zucchini. 5. Grilled Cheese Smear a thick layer of gochujang on a slice of bread. Top with slices of blue cheese, then top with a second slice of bread. Butter the outsides of the bread, then toast in a skillet until the cheese is melted. 6. Hot Dogs Mix together equal amounts of ketchup and gochujang, and then use to top hot dogs. For the full experience, lay down a heap of kimchee in the bun first.

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7. Burgers Mix several tablespoons of gochujang into whatever ground meat (or blend of meats) you use for burgers, meatballs, or meatloaf. 8. Falafel Stir gochujang and diced cucumber into plain Greek yogurt, then use as a condiment for falafel or lamb burgers.

Asian Restaurant Listings

9. Pulled Pork Thin gochujang with water, cider vinegar, and a bit of honey, then toss with shredded or pulled pork and serve on slider buns.

UPPER WEST SIDE

10. Sloppy Joe’s Brown 1 pound ground beef and 1 diced onion in a splash of olive oil. Mix in a 15-ounce can tomato sauce blended with 2 tablespoons gochujang. Simmer. If desired, sprinkle in a bit of brown sugar. From The Associated Press

Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com

UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com

HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com

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1 2

Ye olde corn on the cob gets a kick from gochujang.

Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com

MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com

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Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com

KOREATOWN Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com

GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com

KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com

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Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com

GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com

EAST VILLAGE SenYa Featured Dishes: Yuzu Hamachi; Rock Shrimp Tempura; SenYa Omakase 109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com

BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com

BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com

QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499


D12 July 31–Aug. 6, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org

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The Elephant Walk

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By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Asked to describe Cambodian food chef Nadsa de Monteiro says, “Most people have had Thai food. [I’ll say] ‘Have you had Thai food? Well, it has similar roots but it’s a whole lot better. It’s a lot more complex. It’s more earthy, it’s more interesting.â€? Ingredients such as fermented fish paste and fermented shrimp paste are used sparingly but give complexity and depth to many dishes. De Monteiro is the executive chef at The Elephant Walk Restaurants in Boston and Cambridge, which specialize in Cambodian and French cuisine. De Monteiro oers two recipes for the curious cook. One is a recipe that diners clamor for every summer: a cold avocado citrus soup, inspired by her visit to Ecuador years ago. Fresh lime and orange

juice go into the soup, giving it a clean taste. Another is the classic Cambodian rice and chicken dish, called “bai mouan.â€? “What is more comforting than chicken and rice?â€? De Monteiro asked. It’s a simple comforting dish, but it’s addictive. The secret is the sauce—“Kampot tuk trey,â€? a concoction of lime juice, fish sauce, and chilies. “Everybody that’s had it loves it,â€? said De Monteiro. The other is the garlicky rice. The chicken is traditionally boiled, although De Monteiro is serving it roasted in the summer. Only the fluy garlicky rice is served to diners at the restaurant, but if you’re at home, don’t discard the crusty rice at the bottom of the pan— that’s considered the best part.

COURTESY OF THE ELEPHANT WALK

10 BLOCK RADIUS

RECIPE BAI MOUAN CLASSIC CAMBODIAN CHICKEN & RICE Serves: 8

INGREDIENTS

ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night

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鍔銗文人墨厢çš„ 芊ćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ )

Cooking the Chickens, Making the Broth and the Rice • 6 quarts of water • 1 large peeled whole onion • 2 whole chickens ( about 3 1/2 pounds each ) • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil • 8 garlic cloves, smashed and finely chopped • 4 cups of jasmine rice, soaked and drained • 2 teaspoons of kosher salt and ground black pepper mix

to a boil; turn down to simmer and skim off any scum. Simmer covered for about 1 hour or until chickens are tender but not overcooked and mushy.

Dipping Sauce

Add the soaked and drained rice and stir to mix well; toast the rice while stirring often until the grains become mostly opaque, about 5 minutes, without breaking the rice grains; season with salt & black pepper; mix well.

• Juice and pulp of 2 1/2 limes • 8 garlic cloves, ground to a paste with a mortar and pestle or mini chop • 3 to 6 bird’s eye chilies to taste, finely chopped (mix of red & green chilies if possible) • 1/2 cup fish sauce • 3 tablespoons of sugar

ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ 瞎味佳餚(三樓)

Serve Garnished With

Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.

• 1 small onion, sliced paper thin crosswise • 2 tablespoons of preserved cabbage (optional ) • 1 large English cucumber, thinly sliced • 1 small head of bib lettuce, separated, washed, dried and torn into small pieces • 2 scallions, sliced diagonally 1/4 inch thick • 1/4 bunch of fresh cilantro sprigs, washed and drained for garnish

DIRECTIONS In a large stockpot add the 2 chickens, fill with cold water to cover the chicken only by an inch. Add 1 whole peeled onion to the pot and bring

Remove the chickens from the broth and store tightly covered until serving time; reserve broth. In a large-rimmed pot, heat the oil and sautĂŠ the garlic over medium heat until lightly golden but not burned, 5 to 8 seconds.

Add 6 1/2 cups of the chicken broth to the toasted rice and stir to mix well and spread rice evenly to cook in the broth. Bring to a boil and immediately lower the heat to a minimum, cover and let the rice cook by absorption for about 20–25 minutes, or until broth is completely absorbed and the rice is tender. Make the dipping sauce by combining all the ingredients and mix well. Set aside. Shred the chicken into bite sized pieces and arrange on a platter with the rice, cucumber, lettuce, scallions, and cilantro. Serve this chicken and rice dish accompanied by individual bowls of piping hot chicken broth garnished with thinly sliced onion and preserved cabbage, and small individual bowls of dipping sauce on the side. Recipe courtesy of chefs Longteine and Nadsa de Monteiro, The Elephant Walk, Boston and Cambridge, Mass.

COURTESY OF THE ELEPHANT WALK

RECIPE CHILLED AVOCADO CITRUS SOUP Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • •

212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours

• • • •

1 small onion, chopped 1 tablespoon regular salt 1 quart orange juice, freshly squeezed 1 cup lime, freshly squeezed 1 tablespoon, sugar 2 teaspoons regular salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or soybean oil 3 avocados, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 2/3 cup button mushrooms, sliced 1/4inch thick 2 cups plum tomatoes, diced without pulp Cilantro, chopped, 1 tablespoon per serving

DIRECTIONS Cover the chopped onion with salt for 20 to 30 minutes. Rinse the salt completely off the onion, drain and squeeze off excess water. Mix salt, black pepper, orange juice, lime juice, garlic, and sugar. Stir well to mix. Add olive oil and mix well. Add the diced avocado, mushroom, tomatoes, and onion. Stir gently now to mix well. Let chill for 1 hour before serving. Garnish each bowl with a tablespoon of cilantro when serving. Recipe courtesy of executive chef Nadsa de Monteiro, The Elephant Walk, Boston and Cambridge, Mass.


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