Epoch Taste 7-22-2016

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UTAH OFFICE OF TOURISM/SANDRA SALVAS

D1 July 22–28, 2016

Summer Drinks Get a Boozy Twist on D7

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An Appetite for Nature A Foodie’s Guide to America’s National Parks Hiking through The Narrows, one of most popular hikes in Zion National Park, Utah.

By Annie Wu & Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

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xploring the national parks works up an appetite, that’s for sure. While you burn those calories, you can replenish them with the most delicious meals in and around the parks.

Take it from Ari Kissiloff, who has visited 328 national park sites—many while on vacation from his job as a professor at Ithaca College in upstate New York. Larger parks with lodges have several dining options, he explained, including a grand hall for dining. “These have tended to be farm-to-table for decades, not because of the latest fad but by necessity, as reaching many of these places is difficult and they had to be self-sufficient and live off the

land, and guests expected that,” he said in an email interview. Last summer, he took a trip to Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park, which stood out for its incredible meals, like the locally caught, pan-seared trout at Skyland’s Pollock Dining Room and the braised eye-of-round pot roast served with local vegetables at Big Meadows Lodge’s Spottswood Dining Room.

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Exploring cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado.

COURTESY OF OLYMPIC PENINSULA VISITOR BUREAU

Ruby Beach, Olympic National Park, Washington.

An Appetite for Nature National Parks continued from D1 In California, you’re never very far from a national park—or a wine region. VISIT CALIFORNIA

Other highlights were the meals at Jordan Pond House in Maine’s Acadia National Park and Many Glacier Hotel in Montana’s Glacier National Park. “Also, I was almost the dinner to the bear we encountered on the trail around the lake there,” he added. Not only dining establishments within parks but also many gateway cities and towns offer delicious options for foodies, from regional fare to local wines and beers. Below is a selection of national park sites sure to make a foodie happy.

native to higher priced resort towns. A change in liquor laws has allowed considerable growth for the beer, wine, and spirits scene. Recent additions to the scene include Lumpy Ridge Brewing Company, Rock Cut Brewing Company, The Barrel (a craft beer, wine, and spirits garden), and Elkins Distilling Company. The Stanley Hotel, which holds the state’s largest whiskey collection, recently celebrated its 1,000th whiskey label at its Cascades Whiskey Bar. Half an hour from Rocky Mountain National Park, the city of Boulder has over 20 breweries and a strong farm-to-table dining scene, bolstered by the city’s location at the edge of a fertile valley. For example, chef Eric Skokan created a 130acre organic garden just outside the city to supply his restaurants, Black Cat Farm Table Bistro and Bramble & Hare. “Top Chef” Season Five winner Hosea Rosenberg helms his own East Boulder restaurant and butcher shop, Blackbelly Market, featuring livestock from Colorado farms and ranches.

NORTHEAST

Visit the Madera Wine Trail on the way to Yosemite.

DMARYASHIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

Maine Acadia National Park Acadia National Park is known for its granite peaks, woodlands, lakes, and ocean views. Inside the park, head to Jordan Pond House for its legendary tea and popovers, an afternoon tradition since the 1890s. Outside the park, traditional lobster shacks beckon. Visitors can even watch the lobstermen unload their catch there, usually in the afternoons. James Kaiser, author of the guidebook “Acadia: The Complete Guide,” says the area’s fresh seafood is “off the charts.” He recommends the shacks, where you can get lobster rolls, or even full lobster dinners with steamers (Maine clams), mussels, and corn on the cob. Outside the park, Kaiser recommends The Burning Tree restaurant in Otter Creek, outside Bar Harbor, and Red Sky in Southwest Harbor, for their excellent seafood offerings. MIDWEST Michigan Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore Hiking through lush forest and sand dunes to the Lake Michigan shore (and back!) is sure to make you hungry and thirsty. Head to nearby Traverse City for its award-winning wines and talented local chefs. You’ll likely find a cherry specialty or two on the menu—Traverse City is America’s Cherry Capital. The Grand Traverse Pie Company—one of Mario Batali’s favorite spots—serves no less than 14 kinds of cherry pie. Take wine tours of the Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas, reputed for their crisp and elegant wines. South Dakota Mount Rushmore National Memorial This year is a good time to gaze upon the 60-foot faces of four U.S. presidents carved into granite at Mount Rushmore National Memorial in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The iconic landmark, which took 14 years to build, is celebrating its 75th anniversary of completion in October. Join the celebration with your own taste of history: a scoop of Thomas Jefferson’s rich vanilla ice cream from the Memorial Ice Cream Shop, made from the Founding Father’s original 1780s recipe—credited as the first written ice cream recipe in the United States—at a small-town dairy.

If you want to camp in national parks and leave the cooking up for someone else, check out REI, which organizes deluxe camping adventures. The hearty meals include grilled specialties and highlight regional cuisine.

Mesa Verde National Park The Farm Bistro in the small city of Cortez, just outside Mesa Verde National Park, serves comforting dishes using local ingredients from Montezuma County. Among the specialties are the Mesa View Ranch Yak Burger, served on a housemade bun; the Relleno Pie, with roasted poblano chilies baked in a cheddar crust topped with cojito cheese and tortilla strips; and the Baseball Sirloin with Anise Cream—local grass-fed beef cooked in a cast iron skillet and served with mashed potatoes. Wyoming Grand Teton National Park The city of Jackson, near Grand Teton National Park, offers top-notch dining. At The Rose, Michelin-starred chef René Stein serves up dishes inspired by the local produce, such as Yellowstone natural salt-cured king salmon with ice root spinach and Wyoming beef with cremini mushrooms. The Handle Bar inside the Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole is a Michael Mina restaurant that offers elevated pub fare and elaborate cocktails. (Think elk-and-bison meatballs and the Jackson Mule cocktail with vodka, ginger beer, and huckleberry.) Nora’s Fish Creek Inn— just outside Jackson—is an old-school diner that MAINE OFFICE OF TOURISM

won a James Beard America’s Classics award in 2012. Its signature dishes are huevos rancheros with green chili salsa and rainbow trout served with eggs and hash browns. Yellowstone While trekking through Yellowstone—which offers an array of dining options—make sure to try some wild game dishes like smoked bison bratwurst and pheasant-chicken sausage at the Old Faithful Inn Dining Room, a historic log cabin. California Redwood National Park Redwood National Park sits right in the middle of up-and-coming wine country in Mendocino County. Mark Aselstine, owner of online wine club Uncorked Ventures, said via email: “Anyone wanting to see wine country in California, like how Napa probably looked 40-plus years ago, should check out Anderson Valley. It’s a bit of a trip to get to, but it’s also idyllic, with wineries along a central road, as well as cheap enough land that you’ll often find the winemakers and owners working the tasting rooms on weekends.” According to winemakers in California, it might be the state’s best growing region for pinot noir, Aselstine noted. His favorite producers include Phillips Hill, Panthea, and Comptche Ridge. A last tip from Aselstine: “If someone took a bit of an extra ride over to the coast, they’d find some of the best seafood in the state, including one of the few spots you can still dive for abalone.” Yosemite National Park Within the park, the Majestic Yosemite Dining Room offers dishes like Braised Berkshire Pork Osso Bucco, in the elegance of a chandelier-lit room with a 34-foot-high ceiling. At Erna’s Elderberry House Restaurant at the Chateau du Sureau country estate in Oakhurst, about 20 minutes from the south gate of Yosemite, chef Jonathon Perkins prepares dishes like Rosemary Basted Venison Loin and Charred Hawaiian Mahi Mahi. In Groveland, a gateway city to Yosemite National Park, historic inns and dining options abound. Chef-owner Aaron Haas of Fork & Love offers inventing pairings, such as VietCOURTESY OF VISIT RAINIER

WEST Colorado Rocky Mountain National Park Estes Park, Colorado, the basecamp for Rocky Mountain National Park, is an affordable alter-

Fuel up on lobster dinners before a hike in Acadia National Park in Maine.

Inside Mount Rainier National Park in Washington.


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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF VISIT ESTES PARK

COURTESY OF THE SALTRY RESTAURANT

The Saltry Restaurant near Katmai National Park boasts views of Kachemak Bay. COURTESY OF PUBLICO KITCHEN & TAP

COURTESY OF SEWARD WINDSONG LODGE

Publico Kitchen & Tap offers creative takes on Mexican fare.

Resurrection Roadhouse near the Kenai Fjords National Park serves wild-caught salmon.

namese pho with German ingredients. Across the street, the Groveland Hotel has won many awards for its wine list. Next-door is Iron Door Saloon, the oldest drinking establishment in California; if you stop by, try Indigeny Reserve on tap, a locally made hard apple cider that’s hard to find outside of the area. Dori’s Tea Cottage offers a restful stop for lunch or tea. In nearby Jamestown, the National Hotel, which was built in 1859, still has its original saloon. Back then, the inn accepted gold and gold dust as legal tender—and they still do today.

Spaghetti Squash Enchiladas, smothered in roasted tomatillo green chili sauce.

Utah The Mighty 5 Moab, Utah, is the gateway to Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park. Before venturing into the parks, grab breakfast at the quirky Eklecticafe, which serves a menu featuring vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free options; or at the Love Muffin Cafe (opens at 6:30 a.m.), where you can enjoy a sunrise panini with sausage, pimento cheese, tomato, and onion. Moab Brewery, near Canyonlands, finds its inspiration from the landscape of southern Utah. Their popular Dead Horse Ale gets its name from a scenic overlook near the park. Other favorites are the Red Rye IPA, Derailleur Red Ale, Moab Especial, Over the Top Hefeweizen, and the nitrogen-conditioned Raven Stout. Close to Arches National Park is Castle Creek Winery, which produces more than 30 awardwinning wines from locally produced grapes. Near Capitol Reef National Park, Hell’s Backbone Grill sources about 12,000 pounds of produce from its no-harm farm. The farm uses sustainable practices—from companion planting to mowing courtesy of two rescue goats. The cuisine is regional: a mix of Western, Pueblo Indian, and Southwestern. On the menu you’ll find Cream of Jalapeño-Avocado Soup and a Black Bean and Green Chile Posole. If you go to Bryce Canyon National Park, head to Stone Hearth Grille in Stone Canyon Inn to get your bison meatballs or wild mushroom tartare fix. After hours wandering in Zion National Park’s slot canyons, canyoneers who emerge into the sunlight worn and tired can head to Oscar’s Cafe in Springdale for a burger and beer. Really hungry hikers can pick out the one-pound Big A’s Double Burger. At the Whiptail Grill, also in Springdale, chow down on NPS.GOV

Snoozing sea otter in Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska.

On horseback in Rocky Mountain National Park.

BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY

COURTESY OF PIGEON FORGE DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM

Grilled asparagus with garden vegetables and fish roe from Blackberry Farm in Tennessee.

The Old Mill in Pigeon Forge near the Great Smokies has been operating since 1830.

He also holds the world record for the fastest ascent up Mt. Everest. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can forage, fish, or hunt for your own meal outside the park with chef Ky Loop at Kelly’s Mercantile. He’ll guide you along the way, and then prepare a lavish meal with whatever you’ve gathered.

Trail) NY Strip Steak, with herb butter, caramelized local onions and mushrooms, and garlic mashed potatoes. For dessert, try the famed Mile-High Blackberry Ice Cream Pie.

NORTHWEST Alaska Kenai Fjords National Park Alaska is a land full of natural wonders— including incredibly fresh seafood. After a day of taking in glaciers and wildlife at Kenai Fjords National Park, stop by the Resurrection Roadhouse for some wild-caught Alaskan halibut or king crab legs served with saffron risotto. For a scenic meal near Katmai National Park— known for its smoke-filled valleys—head to The Saltry Restaurant, where you can enjoy views of Kachemak Bay while noshing on oysters and fish from its waters. Denali National Park Denali National Park is a destination for mountaineering and other outdoor sports enthusiasts. You’ll need to fuel up at the Denali Alaska Salmon Bake, where the signature dishes include cedar-plank salmon baked with local gold birch syrup. Washington Olympic National Park The Olympic Peninsula is filled with restaurants, farms, wineries, and cideries. The Hood Canal area is known for shellfish, while eateries specializing in local fare abound in Sequim. You can go on a self-guided culinary tour with the help of sample itineraries by Olympic Culinary Loop, a tourism organization. The region also has a yearlong lineup of food festivals. In August, the small town of Joyce, Washington, celebrates the Joyce Daze Wild Blackberry Festival with homemade pies, pancakes, and other berry-filled treats. For fresh Pacific Northwest seafood, head to the Kalaloch Lodge overlooking the coast, where you can dine on Dungeness crab cakes, house-smoked maple salmon, steamed clams, and local fish. Mount Rainier National Park Get a taste of another alpine culture—the Himalayas—while you’re at Mt. Rainier National Park. Sherpa Lhakpa Gelu serves Himalayan dishes at Wildberry, such as thali (a platter with multiple dishes), momos (dumplings), and a traditional stew with Himalayan spices. COURTESY OF KELLY’S MERCANTILE

Smoked Salmon Platter from Kelly's Mercantile near Mount Rainier.

SOUTH Kentucky Mammoth Cave National Park Mammoth Cave National Park has the longest known cave system in the world, with over 400 miles of caves and underground passageways. Emerge from your subterranean exploits to enjoy some homemade ice cream from Chaney’s Dairy Barn, with flavors like Mint Julep (mint with Guernsey chocolate flakes and Maker’s Mark bourbon), Peach (made with local peaches), and Big Red Rumble (white chocolate, red velvet cake, and fudge swirl). South Carolina Congaree National Park For avid hikers, it’s both a blessing and a curse that South Carolina has such diverse cuisines. Near Congaree National Park, you’ll find Publico Kitchen & Tap, a fusion taco joint serving organic, local bites like agedashi tofu (deepfried silken tofu), tuna poké, and pad thai chicken tacos. When in the South, one must have barbecue. Southern Belly BBQ offers oak smoke slowroasted meats in different sandwich and sauce combinations. Meanwhile, chef Mike Davis at Terra serves up inventive takes on Southern classics, like the Lamb Mac and Cheese with poblano peppers, fontina, and goat cheese. Don’t forget dessert at Sweet Cream Co., an artisanal ice cream shop that serves fun flavors like buttermilk with blackberry preserves, lime cardamom, and fig-orange-pistachio. Virginia Shenandoah National Park After a day of traversing Shenandoah National Park’s 500 miles of trails, refuel at Big Meadows Lodge’s Spottswood Dining Room with seasonal mountain cuisine specialities, including Yankee Pot Roast, Rainbow Trout, and Rabbit Sheppard’s Pie. Or head over to Skyland’s Pollock Dining Room for the A.T. (Appalachian

Tennessee Great Smoky Mountains National Park While exploring the Great Smoky Mountains, stay at Blackberry Farm, a 4,200-acre estate that houses a luxury resort, a James Beard Award-winning restaurant, a fully operating farm, and a brewery. The farm provides most of the produce for the Appalachian-inspired cuisine it serves, including heirloom crops and cheeses made from its sheep. In Gatlinburg, the gateway town, you can find specialty dishes like moonshine-marinated chicken at The Park Grill, fried apple pies at Carver’s Apple Orchard, and glorious stacks of pancakes at Pancake Pantry (wild blueberry, sweet potato, Smoky Mountain buckwheat). And in the nearby town of Pigeon Forge, the Old Mill offers a taste of artisanal, old-school baking. The gristmill has been operating since 1830 and grinds grains and corn for its two onsite restaurants. The pecan pie is a must-try. Texas Big Bend National Park Take in Big Bend National Park’s diverse landscapes—from the Chihuahuan Desert to the Chisos Mountains to the Rio Grande—and then head to the Gage Hotel for some fine Texan fare. Try the White Buffalo Bar’s award-winning White Buffalo Burger, with sautéed mushrooms and onions, Colby-Jack cheese, and chipotle aioli, or sit down at the 12 Gage Restaurant for Texan-inspired dishes with a gourmet twist, like the Beef Tenderloin Filet, with Gruyère mashed potatoes and sauce bordelaise, or the Pasture Raised Spring Lamb Chop, with green onion panisse, tamarind-rum glaze, and fava bean “guac.” New Mexico El Malpais National Monument New Mexico is a treasure trove of rich history and local eats. For a taste of authentic Acoma (a Native American tribe) cuisine, try the Red Chile Beef Posole and Traditional Oven Bread at Yaak’a Cafe, 45 miles west of El Malpais National Monument’s cinder cones and lava caves.

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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF DAN’S TASTE OF SUMMER

DAN’S CLAMBAKEMTK Next up in the Dan’s Taste of Summer series is an oceanfront food and drink fest, featuring surf and turf dishes from restaurants in both New York City and the Hamptons. The event will be hosted by food personalities Marc Murphy and Eden Ginshpan. A portion of ticket sales will go to the Montauk Playhouse Community Center Foundation and The Retreat. $150 to $250 per person.

stuff to eat and drink around nyc

Saturday, July 30 7:30 p.m.–midnight Gurney’s Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa 290 Old Montauk Highway Montauk, N.Y. danstasteofsummer.com/clambakemtk

PANORAMA FESTIVAL Arcade Fire, Kendrick Lamar, LCD Soundsystem, Sia, and many other musicians will take to the stage at the Panorama Festival. The food line-up isn’t bad either. Among the many dishes awaiting concert-goers are the Animal Style Burger from The Beatrice Inn, Fried Soft Shell Crab from Contra and Wildair, Chicharones Tacos from The Black Ant and Temerario, and Cookie Dough McConnell’s Ice Cream Sandwich from Maman. $125 (one day) to $369 (all three days) per person.

Enjoying food and drinks by the firepit.

COURTESY OF DAN’S TASTE OF SUMMER

COURTESY OF DAN’S TASTE OF SUMMER

Friday, July 22–Sunday, July 24 Randall’s Island panorama.nyc

NYC RESTAURANT WEEK NYC Restaurant Week is back, with over 370 restaurants around the city offering discounted three-course, prix fixe meals. Participating restaurants include Gotham Bar and Grill, Fig & Olive, Morimoto, and Club A Steakhouse. $29 for lunch, $42 for dinner.

Television personality Eden Grinshpan.

Monday, July 25–Friday, Aug. 19 nycgo.com/restaurant-week

NATIONAL CHEESECAKE DAY AT EILEEN’S SPECIAL CHEESECAKE

5 BORO PIZZA CHALLENGE Pizza enthusiast Joe Cutrufo is organizing a citywide pizza-eating competition in the style of The Amazing Race, as a fundraiser for Transportation Alternatives. Participants will race to eat a slice from each borough and document them on Instagram—all without using cars. The challenge ends with prizes and an afterparty. $25 per person. RT ES YO FE ILE

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Saturday, July 30 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Washington Square Arch Washington Square Park (at Fifth Avenue) 5boropizzachallenge.weebly.com

Chef Marc Murphy.

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Eileen’s Special Cheesecake offers 41 flavors of cheesecake, one for each year in business.

Eileen’s Special Cheesecake, home of the “Best Cheesecake in America,” according to Food & Wine magazine, will be celebrating National Cheesecake Day on July 30 with halfprice cheesecake in stores. The bakery offers 41 flavors, one for each year it’s been in business. Try their best-sellers, the classic Strawberry, a cotton-soft plain cheesecake with a sweet and syrupy strawberry topping; and Salted Caramel, with the same base enrobed instead in a crackly layer of brûléed sugar. Other delicious options include the decadent Red Velvet, fragrant Mango, and over-the-top S’mores, the 2016 flavor of the year. Eileen’s has a rich history—after the events of 9/11, which destroyed the bakery’s kiosk between the Twin Towers, Eileen and her team continued to bake for Ground Zero rescue workers for the following six months. Saturday, July 30, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Eileen’s Special Cheesecake 17 Cleveland Place eileenscheesecake.com

(of 2nd location)

GRAND BAZAAR NYC

Ice cream sandwiches await at the Summer Ice Cream Blizzard event.

NYC SUMMER ICE CREAM BLIZZARD Cool off with artisanal ice cream from around the city at Grand Bazaar NYC, the Upper West Side’s weekly market. The market’s 100+ curated vendors will be joined by ice cream makers including Ice & Vice, Victory Garden, Melt Bakery, and Mochidoki. All profits from the market will go to four local public schools. Free admission.

A great meal doesn’t just fill you up.

It’s a journey to sources of pleasure you may have forgotten. Our little gem on 28th street has expanded, and we’re now open on the upper east side as well. Come be our guest. 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 256-0403

2nd Location

157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com Open 5pm to 10:45pm

Sunday, July 31 10 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Grand Bazaar NYC 100 W. 77th St. grandbazaarnyc.org

12TH ANNUAL HAYGROUND CHEFS DINNER The 12th Annual Hayground Chefs Dinner, a fundraiser for Hayground School, will feature chefs including Tom Colicchio (Craft Restaurants), Josh Capon (Lure Fishbar and Bowery Meat Co.), and Elizabeth Falkner, as well as a live auction. This year’s dinner will celebrate the school’s 20th anniversary, as well as honor chef Claudia Fleming of North Fork Table & Inn and Toni Ross, coowner of Nick & Toni’s and co-founder of Hayground School. $1,200 per person. Sunday, July 31 5 p.m. Jeff’s Kitchen at Hayground School 151 Mitchell Lane Bridgehampton, N.Y. haygroundchefsdinner.org


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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF ARTS+CRAFTS, INC.

COURTESY OF ARTS+CRAFTS, INC.

TAP+CORK Arts+Crafts Inc.’s food, beer, and wine festival is returning for the fourth year in a row. The festival will offer more than 45 craft beers and artisanal wines to pair with bites from local vendors and live music. $25 to $50 per person. Saturday, Aug. 6 2 p.m.–8 p.m. Bedford-Stuyvesant Restoration Plaza 1368 Fulton St. Brooklyn tapcorknyc.com

Attendees at the 2015 Tap+Cork event.

COURTESY OF SHUKO

CIDERFEAST

SHUKO SUMMER POP-UP

Cookout NYC’s sophisticated outdoor cider festival will feature over 30 regional, national, and European ciders from over a dozen makers, including Hudson Valley Farmhouse Cider, Shacksbury, Austin Eastciders, Aspall, and Ciders of Spain. Attendees can pair their drinks with plenty of grilled meat and vegetarian options. $55 to $80 per person. Saturday, Aug. 6 Noon–9 p.m. Solar One at Stuyvesant Cove Park 500 E. 23rd St. cookoutnyc.com

The Union Square restaurant is headed to the Hamptons. Shuko will be offering a 2 1/2-hour multi-course tasting menu, featuring favorite dishes and sushi selections, in East Hampton. The traditional Japanese restaurant uses seasonal ingredients sourced both locally and internationally. $200 per person. Saturday, Aug. 13 Highway Restaurant & Bar 290 Montauk Highway East Hampton, N.Y. shukonyc.com

STEVE HILL

THE RIBBON’S ANNIVERSARY MENU

STEVE HILL

The Bromberg Brothers’ first Upper West Side restaurant is celebrating its one-year anniversary with a new menu available through Labor Day. Offerings include deviled eggs, a raw bar, Blue Ribbon’s fried chicken, and specialty cocktails such as the Chicarito, with mezcal, peach nectar, and jalapeñoinflused tequila. Daily through Labor Day 4 p.m.–7 p.m. The Ribbon 20 W. 72nd St. theribbonnyc.com

The Raw Platter.

Deviled Eggs.

夏のメニュー

CHURRO WAFFLE AT PAMPANO

SUMMER PLATES AT DONGURI

Available at brunch and by request all day long by those in the know, the churro waffle ($12) is the latest mashup in town. Chef Lucero Martinez pours churro batter into a Belgium waffle iron, then tops the churro waffle with cinnamon sugar and a scoop of vanilla or dulce de leche ice cream. The finishing touch is a drizzle of maple agave syrup. Pampano 209 E. 49th St. richardsandoval.com/pampano

A sampling of our summer menu

Sweet Corn Tempura Grilled Black Cod Marinated with White Miso COURTESY OF THE RIBBON

SMORGASBIRD SANDWICH AT BLUE RIBBON FRIED CHICKEN The July Sandwich of the Month, the Smorgasbird, has returned to Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken. The double-decker consists of two chicken cutlets, caramelized pineapple, shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, Blue Ribbon special sauce, and Game Day Fries. These are no ordinary fries; they come with BBQ pulled chicken, aged cheddar, sour cream, smoked bacon, and pickled peppers. Finally, all of this is stacked on a toasted bun. Finish the sandwich in under five minutes for a chance to win more fried chicken. Five dollars from each purchase go to the MS Society. Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken 28 E. First St. blueribbonfriedchicken.com

Traditional Clear Soup Mochidoki Ice Cream Matcha Green Tea, Salted Caramel, Passion Fruit

Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.

RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)

Compiled by Annie Wu & Crystal Shi/Epoch Times Staff

Chef Yamasaki

Chef’s Tasting Kaiseki Menu Always Available, $150


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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

The Lindeman

Openings around NYC

COURTESY OF THE LINDEMAN

COURTESY OF THE LINDEMAN

508 W. 42nd St. (between 10th & 11th avenues) 212-868-2999 thelindeman.com

(L–R) Burger with caramelized onions, Gruyère cheese, and truffle mushroom; and the Tequila Mockingbird cocktail (Celestial Reposado, Aperol, lime, honey, and rosemary).

The Bowery Market KEN MOORE

The Bowery Market, an open-air food market in NoHo, featuring a curated selection of local vendors, is now open. Vendors include Alidoro, with over 20 Italian specialty sandwiches and salads; Pulqueria, with its signature tacos in housemade organic tortillas; Sushi on Jones, with omakase-style bento boxes full of fresh nigiri and rolls; the juice bar, café, and “vegetable slaughterhouse,” The Butcher’s Daughter; and Greenpoint-based Champion Coffee. Owner Scott Marano created the 1,000-square-foot space, located on the site of a former body shop, to reflect the vibrancy and diversity of The Bowery. The market pays tribute to its history with its industrial design, but each restaurant kiosk is built to express its own unique identity. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

348 Bowery (at Great Jones Street) thebowerymarket.com

KEN MOORE

The Lindeman, a new restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen, offers a seasonal American menu made with produce, line-caught seafood, and hormone- and steroid-free meats, all sourced from within 90 miles of the restaurant. The executive chef is Carl Alioto, formerly of The Standard Grill and Omar’s La Ranita. Menu items include String Bean Tempura with chipotle aioli and Hudson Valley Duck with toasted hazelnut farro. Weekend brunch features housemade pastries, baked egg dishes, and specialties, such as Grapefruit Brulee with crystallized ginger. Beverage selections include wine and cocktails that offer modern takes on classic drinks, such as The Lindeman, with St. Germaine, Yellow Chartreuse, and housemade rhubarb bitters, and a Papaya Margarita, with Blanco Tequila, papaya pulp, and lime. For the summer, The Lindeman is offering $5 glasses of Grande Récolte Rosé and dollar raw oysters during its Rosé Fête Happy Hour from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. The restaurant features plush banquette seating; an industrial bar; and a lounge with

Denino’s Pizzeria & Tavern The 1937 Staten Island pizzeria has opened a third location, in Greenwich Village. Denino’s is serving up its famed thin-crust pizzas, cooked to order with freshly made dough, special sauce, and handmade cheese. Offerings include the Garbage Pie (with sausage, meatballs, pepperoni, mushrooms, and onions), the “M.O.R.” Pie (with meatballs, fresh onions, and ricotta), and the Clam Pie (with fresh garlic, parsley, and olive oil). Open daily for lunch and dinner.

93 MacDougal St. (between Bleecker & Carmine streets) 646-838-6987 deninosgreenwichvillage.com

a 10-seat communal dining table and a Lindeman & Sons signature piano rescued from a nearby street corner. The restaurant is named after Lindeman & Sons, one of the first piano factories in the United States. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and for weekend brunch. COURTESY OF THE LINDEMAN

The Ribeye with fresh thyme and bone marrow butter.

Seabird Seabird, a casual, seafood-centric eatery, is slated to open in the West Village on July 27. It combines Mezetto chef Bahr Rapaport’s playful, unexpected cooking with Mountain Bird chef Kenichi Tajima’s refined French technique to bring customers an elevated twist on American comfort food. Offerings include Conch with herb garlic butter, Warm Lobster Roll with tarragon béarnaise sauce, and Squid Ink Mac and Cheese. The 1,000-square-foot restaurant, designed to have a “French bistro meets beach club” vibe, has a 40- to 50-seat dining room, a 28-seat outdoor patio, and a to-go counter and window. Open for lunch and dinner, with brunch soon to come.

361 Sixth Ave. (between West Fourth Street & Washington Place) seabirdny.com Compiled by Crystal Shi/Epoch Times Staff

An Appetite for Nature

COURTESY OF HAWAII TOURISM AUTHORITY

National Parks continued from D3 Petroglyph National Monument Near Albuquerque, visit the Petroglyph National Monument, where you can marvel at designs carved into volcanic rocks by Native Americans and Spanish settlers 400 to 700 years ago. Enjoy a seasonal meal from the nearby Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Organic Farm—headed by executive chef Jonathan Perno, a frequent James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef. ISLANDS Virgin Islands Virgin Islands National Park The Virgin Islands National Park, most of which lies on the island of St. John, offers breathtaking views of the Caribbean waters. While there, sample Caribbean staples like oxtail soup and roti at De Coal Pot, or pates (fried pastries filled with spicy meat or fish) at Hercules Pate Delight. For dinner, head to Ocean 362 inside the Gallows Point Resort, where chef Shaun Brian incorporates local ingredients in his tasting menu, like foraged St. John sea salt and sea purslane (coastal plant). Hawaii Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park After exploring the stunning landscapes inside Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, head to Volcano House, where you’ll get to enjoy more amazing views of the park while dining on creative Hawaiian dishes like Hilo CoffeeRubbed Lamb with macadamia nuts and poha berry demi-glace; Pan-Seared Kona Kampachi fish with lobster seaweed salad, Wailea hearts of palm gratin, and young ginger-mirin butter sauce. American Samoa National Park of American Samoa While you’re in the South Pacific, you’ll want to try the daily catch. At Tisa’s Barefoot Bar, a beachfront restaurant in the village of Alega, you can choose from a selection of fresh-caught fish, seared and served with local greens and steamed breadfruit (a tropical

The coast at the Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. COURTESY OF VIRGIN ISLANDS DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM

Park goers enjoy the scenery inside Virgin Islands National Park. fruit) cooked in coconut cream. If you’re traveling with a group, book in advance an “umu” feast, a traditional Samoan meal consisting of fish, meat, and local grains steamed in an umu, a cooking pit that uses hot river rocks. Crystal Shi contributed to this report.


D7

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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

AWESOME MEAL SPECIAL HAPPY HOUR 4-7PM $4 Beer $5 Wine $6 House Mix

Llama Inn By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff NEW YORK—Walking into Llama Inn, you feel transported to a sunnier place, with verdant plants sitting on shelves high up near the ceilings, and lots of wide windows that let in the sunlight. Chef Erik Ramirez translates the bright flavors of his Peruvian heritage for New Yorkers. It’s “New York cooking with a Peruvian attitude and heartbeat,” as he calls it. For example, a classic Chinese-Peruvian dish of stir-fried beef with soy sauce ($22), called “lomo saltado,” is given a stronger Chinese accent with the addition of oyster sauce and aromatic scallions. As early as the 19th century, many Chinese migrant workers settled in Peru, leaving behind their culinary traditions. A stir-fry in the wok imparts the meat with a delicious char, and the sauce—oh the sauce!— is so enticing you’ll want to follow the server’s advice of using your spoon to scoop it all up. The dish is topped with a runny fried egg, French fries, fried banana—creamy and sugary sweet—and a drizzle of crema de rocoto, a creamy Peruvian sauce made of rocoto peppers. For brunch, Ramirez also serves a version of a classic pork sandwich commonly eaten for lunch, pan con chicharrón ($14). He first salts pork shoulder meat for 24 hours, then confits it for three to four hours, rendering it superbly rich and fatty. The pork is then deep-fried to a golden crisp. A slab of sweet potato, some spicy mayo, and red onion salsa balance out the porky goodness. The red onions are dressed in grapeseed oil, salt, lime, and cilantro, so that they become brilliantly acidic.

A Peruvian stir-fry of beef, French fries, runny fried egg, fried banana, and crema de rocoto, made from rocoto peppers.

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Chef Erik Ramirez grew up in New Jersey, but pays homage to his Peruvian heritage at his restaurant. Trips to his parents’ hometown inspire his creations.

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Epoch Times: What foods or dishes from Peru do you miss the most? Erik Ramirez: I miss the local cevicherias [restaurants specializing in ceviche, a citrus-cured seafood dish].

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Epoch Times: What’s your breakfast guilty pleasure?

Chef Erik Ramirez.

Mr. Ramirez: Pastries—a nice Danish or chocolate croissant.

Llama Inn

50 Withers St. Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-387-3434 llamainnnyc.com Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m.–3:30 p.m.

“Pan con chicharrón,” a pork sandwich featuring slabs of crispy, yet tender pork shoulder.

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine COURTESY OF BKW

STEVEN FREIHON

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CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote

Kalimotxo Float.

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Boozy Affogato.

Where to Find It: BKW in Crown Heights, Brooklyn The Booze: Old Vine Zinfandel from Brooklyn Winery. What It Is: An upscale take inspired by the classic red wine and Coca-Cola drink popular with teens in Spain. You’re served mascarpone gelato from Il Laboratorio del Gelato, accompanied by a pitcher of Zinfandel and cola soda mix. Merge the two on your own terms and enjoy ($10). bkwnyc.com

BOOZY AFFOGATO

Where to Find It: Dante in the West Village The Booze: Fonseca LBV Port, Appleton Reserve rum, and Licor 43 What It Is: Served in a latte glass and garnished with a biscotti, this affogato looks innocent enough. But watch out: coffee and liquor make for a spirited brew. It’s sweetened with agave nectar and poured over vanilla gelato ($13). dante-nyc.com

Where to Find It: Syndicated in Bushwick, Brooklyn The Booze: Dark rum and Root liqueur, which is composed of 13 herbs, spices, and roots. What It Is: Get ready for some nostalgia to kick in. Chocolate or vanilla ice cream are blended with booze, and topped with whipped cream and caramel corn ($12). You can get it in the restaurant and bar area, or as part of your movie experience. Yep, Syndicated is not only a restaurant, it’s also an independent movie theater. syndicatedbk.com

SGROPPINO

Where to Find It: Alta Linea at the High Line Hotel in Chelsea The Booze: Vodka, limoncello, and prosecco What It Is: A traditional palate cleanser and after-dinner drink associated with the aristocratic classes in Venice, Italy. Here, restaurateur and beverage expert Joe Campanale whips up Kelvin’s Citrus Slush with vodka, limoncello, and prosecco for a refreshing drink ($15). Alta Linea also offers a frozen Negroni if that’s more your cup of tea ($15). altalineanyc.com

Adult Milkshake.

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops

COURTESY OF ALTA LINEA

KALIMOTXO FLOAT

ADULT MILKSHAKE

COURTESY OF SYNDICATED

By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

$10

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

Sgroppino.


D8

W i Din n n at er

@EpochTaste

July 22–28, 2016

www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY EVAN SUNG

Lau t

ept

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Pierre Thiam traveled to Senegal, documenting the history of different dishes.

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Pierre Thiam

An Ambassador for Senegalese Cuisine

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

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NEW YORK—Growing up in Senegal, chef Pierre Thiam had never seen a man cooking in the kitchen. In Senegalese tradition, women were the caretakers of the family. That is, until he met his godfather—a Vietnamese immigrant who loved to cook. For the first time, Thiam thought it was possible for a man to enter the kitchen. But his academic interests in physics and chemistry kept him busy. It wasn’t until massive university strikes in 1987 forced him to look abroad for schooling options that fate intervened. On his way to Ohio for school, Thiam stopped in New York City, intending to visit for a few days. “I was staying in this hotel in Times Square. But back in the day, Times Square wasn’t like how it is now,” he said. Thiam’s luggage was stolen. He had no way of continuing on to Ohio, and he had to find a job quickly. A Senegalese immigrant who stayed in the same hotel suggested that Thiam try his luck as a busboy at the West Village restaurant where he was working. Since then, Thiam has worked his way up through the ranks of the kitchen brigade and never looked back. A Culinary Ambassador Since rediscovering Senegalese flavors as a professional chef, Thiam has become a culinary ambassador for his native country, both to fellow Africans and Americans. For his recent James Beard Award-nominated cookbook, “Senegal: Modern Senegalese Recipes From the Source to the Bowl,” the chef-restaurateur traveled to different regions of the country, documenting the history behind dishes and speaking with food producers who are often invisible to consumers—for example, a local fisherman, a small-scale red palm oil producer, a yogurt maker. “We just arrive at lunch or dinnertime, and the food is here. But we forget that the rice or grains have been cultivated by a farmer. We know nothing about the farmer. I wanted to correct that,” said Thiam. In Senegalese cuisine, rice is a staple. “Thiebou jenn,” considered a national dish, is made by simmering broken rice, seafood, vegetables, and aromatics. But broken rice—bits of grains that have been broken during the milling process—is actually a remnant of French colonial policies. Farmers were encouraged to cultivate cash crops like peanuts, while subsistence crops were imported from another part of the French colonial empire, Vietnam. Vietnamese broken rice became the primary type of rice eaten by the Senegalese, despite there being a more nutritious, native variety grown in the Casamance region in southern Senegal. The native rice, called Oryza glaberrima, is considered sacred by the indigenous Diola people. Through the enslavement of Diola people, the rice was eventually brought to the American South and cultivated as a lucrative plantation crop, called Carolina Gold. In major cities today, though, people favor imported rice and look down on local grains— and traditional cuisine in general, Thiam said. “To them, this was for backward people, for the country people.”

Thiebou jenn, a Senegalese stew. Changing People’s Minds Thiam wants to change this colonial mentality by promoting the culinary and health benefits of native ingredients used in traditional Senegalese cooking, such as fonio, an ancient gluten-free grain filled with nutrients. Thiam prepares fonio in many ways, from pairing it with a traditional lamb mafé (stew), to using it to make sushi. In his cookbook, Thiam highlights a womenrun cooperative that strives to process fonio on a large scale for worldwide distribution. “As a chef, I could appreciate local food and its value. Not only for patriotic reasons, but because it is better [in terms of taste],” he said. That is why Thiam is working on a project to distribute West African food products in America. Getting Senegalese to embrace their own cuisine also means tracing the ways it has influenced other culinary traditions around the world. From the American South to Valencia, Spain, West African ingredients and dishes have traveled far. Captive slaves brought their cooking and knowledge of rice cultivation to the New World, while the Moors influenced the cuisine of their conquered territory in Spain. “Soupou kandja,” a Senegalese seafood-okra stew, is like Louisiana gumbo, while “accara,” black-eyed pea fritters, resemble the “acarajé” found in Brazil. Paella has all the makings of “thiebou jenn,” and is even traditionally eaten in the same way as in Senegal: people gathered around, eating straight from the pan. “It’s important for people’s identities. It’s important that connection is made. I think it makes you freer, stronger in a way, just to know that your ancestors played a crucial role in what became a cuisine that’s feeding a country,” he said. Thiam is hopeful that his role as an activist will change people’s attitudes toward African food. The growing success of his newly opened restaurant in Lagos, Nigeria, Nok By Alara, is already proving that diners are hungry for African flavors. “People who take pride in their food are a stronger people. Not just physically because they’re better nourished, but also stronger in mentality,” he said.


D9

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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

RECIPE With a sharp knife, slice the rolls into small rounds. Serve immediately with the soy dipping sauce, topped with the scallions.

SWEET POTATO & GRILLED OKRA FONIO SUSHI Makes: 4 rolls

For the Basic Fonio

The greatest thing about fonio is its versatility. I once brought some to my friend, Japanese soba master Chef Shuichi Kotani, who thought that fonio was reminiscent of its Japanese counterpart, buckwheat. (They are both ancient grains believed to be over 5,000 years old.) He ground the fonio into flour to make delicious fonio soba noodles and subsequently fell in love with it.

This healthy, gluten-free grain can be used as a side in the same way you would use rice, couscous, or quinoa. These are two basic methods for steaming fonio. You can cook it in a steamer basket (the traditional way) or just in a pot on the stove. I’ve also had success cooking it in the rice cooker, if you have one (keep the ratio of fonio to water 1:1). You can always add a little bit of butter or oil to the fonio while cooking to keep the grains more separated, if you’d like. If you can’t find fonio, quinoa would make a good substitute when it is called for throughout the book.

This recipe, in which I substitute sushi rice with whole grain, nutritional powerhouse fonio, is another nod to Japan. Light and healthy, I fill my nori-maki sushi with sweet potato and okra, some of my favorite Senegalese vegetables.

Makes: About 4 cups • 1 cup uncooked fonio • Salt

• • • • • • • •

2 cups cooked fonio (recipe follows) or quinoa 1/4 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons red palm oil or vegetable oil 1 teaspoon lime juice 16 whole okra pods, trimmed (see Note) 1 cup roasted mashed sweet potato 4 sheets nori (seaweed) 1 large ripe mango, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inchthick batons or Pickled Mango (recipe follows) • 1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions

In a large bowl, wash the fonio grains by submerging in warm water, swishing the grains around with your fingers, then pouring out and replacing the water several times until it runs clear. Drain well. Using a steamer: Place the fonio in the top of a steamer basket lined with damp cheesecloth. Set over simmering salted water, cover, and steam for about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and fluff with a fork. Drizzle a few tablespoons of salted water over the fonio and steam again until the grains are completely tender, another 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve.

DIRECTIONS Note: Trim the narrow points of the okra so the pods are evenly thick in the rolls.

Without a steamer: Bring 1 cup of water to a boil in a medium pot. Stir in the cleaned raw fonio and 1 tablespoon of salt, cover tightly with the lid, and turn the heat to low. Cook for about 2 minutes, until the water is just absorbed. Turn off the heat and gently fluff with a fork, making sure you fluff the bottom where it’s wetter. Cover again for another 5 to 10 minutes, until tender.

Preheat the grill or a grill pan to hot. With a small mortar and pestle, mash half of the cooked fonio into a paste. Combine with the rest of the fonio to make it sticky. Combine the soy sauce, oil, and lime juice in a small bowl. Stir 1 tablespoon into the fonio and set the rest aside for dipping later.

For the Pickled Mango Makes: 3 cups

Grill the okra, turning once, for 3 to 5 minutes, until lightly charred and tender. Set aside to cool.

• • • • • • • •

Lay a nori sheet on a sushi mat and evenly spread a thin layer of the fonio, leaving about 1 inch bare along the edge opposite you. Spread a few tablespoons of the mashed sweet potato along the closest edge to you. Line up a few okra, tip to tip, next to the sweet potato. Lay a few pieces of mango, tip to tip, next to the okra. Tightly roll up the sushi mat around the nori and the filling. Slightly wet the exposed end of the nori with water and seal. Repeat the process with the remaining nori sheets and filling.

RECIPE THIEBOU JENN

One of Senegal’s national dishes. Every household has its own version.

Serves: 10 This is the one dish that unites all Senegalese. Thiebou jenn, our national dish, is served daily in many Senegalese households, each with their own special recipe. Though very traditional, no Senegalese cookbook would be complete without a thiebou jenn recipe. This version calls for certain ingredients that may not be accessible in many Western markets, but that shouldn’t discourage you, as Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce is a good substitute that will bring the fermented flavor characteristic of thiebou jenn. The selection of root vegetables to be used is up to you. Traditionally thioff, a very popular fish in Senegal, is used in thiebou jenn, but any firm-fleshed fish such as grouper, sea bass, haddock, or halibut will work. If you have your fishmonger cut your whole fish into steaks, make sure you keep the head and tail to add to the pot. There are many different ways to prepare thiebou jenn and this is a slightly more traditional version than the recipe in my first cookbook, Yolele!. The thiebou jenn in the photo opposite is yet another version I enjoyed at the lively Chez Loutcha in Dakar in which the fish is kept whole and fried.

• 1 large whole thioff or grouper (about 5 pounds), scaled, gutted, and cut into 7 steaks about 1 1/2 inches thick, reserving the head and tail • 1 cup Rof (recipe follows) • 1/2 cup vegetable oil • Salt • 2 white onions, chopped • 1 green bell pepper, seeded and chopped • 2 cups tomato paste • 5 cups water • 1 cup dried white hibiscus flowers (optional) • 2 whole Scotch bonnet peppers • Freshly ground black pepper • 2 palm-size pieces guedj (see Note) • 2 pieces yeet, rinsed (see Note) • 1/2 head green cabbage, cut into 3 wedges • 1 turnip, peeled and cut into thick wedges • 1 globe eggplant, halved lengthwise • 1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into large chunks • 1 yuca (4 to 5 inches long), peeled and cut into large chunks • 2 carrots, peeled and cut into large chunks • 2 bitter eggplants (optional) • 1/4 pound small whole okra pods, trimmed • 1 handful shelled tamarind pods or 1 tablespoon tamarind paste • 2 cups broken white rice, or jasmine or basmati rice, washed and drained • 2 limes, cut into wedges

DIRECTIONS Note: If you can’t find guedj (fermented fish)* and yeet (fermented conch), substitute with Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce, using about a total of 1/4 to 1/2 cup, to taste. Cut two 2-inch-long slits into the meaty part of each fish steak.

2 cups water 2 1/2 cups sugar 3 tablespoons sea salt 1 cup white vinegar 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper 4 whole cloves 2 whole selim pepper pods 2 firm, ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted, and finely diced

In a small pot, bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat.

Add the sugar and salt and stir to dissolve. Add the vinegar, cayenne, cloves, and selim pepper and mix well. Chill for 1 hour. Pack the mangoes tightly into a sterilized 24-ounce jar. Pour the pickling liquid over the mango, filling the jar to the top. Cover tightly and store in the refrigerator for a few days until pickled to your liking. Use in the pastel filling, or enjoy as is or as a topping for salad. Reprinted from “Senegal: Modern Senegalese Recipes from the Source to the Bowl” by Pierre Thiam with Jennifer Sit (Lake Isle Press, 2015)

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Stuff each slit with about 1 teaspoon of the rof. Place the fish, including the head and tail, in a shallow bowl or baking dish and coat with the remaining rof. Cover and refrigerate until needed. Heat the vegetable oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add 2 pinches of salt, the onions, green pepper, and tomato paste. Reduce the heat to low and stir well. Stirring occasionally to avoid scorching, cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the vegetables are soft and the tomato paste turns a dark orange. (You may need to add 1 to 2 tablespoons water to further prevent scorching.)

SO FRESH!

Add the water and stir well. The paste will thin out and become sauce-like. Return to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for about 30 minutes, until the oil separates and rises to the surface. Carefully add the fish steaks, including the head and tail, along with the hibiscus (if using), Scotch bonnets, and a pinch of black pepper. Cook uncovered over medium heat for about 15 minutes, until the fish is cooked.

Remove the vegetables and place in the bowl of fish. Add a few ladles of broth and the tamarind. Line a large colander with cheesecloth and add the washed rice. Place over the simmering broth and cover. Let steam for 10 to 15 minutes. Add the rice to the broth and give it a big stir. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Use a ladle to skim the excess oil from the top; discard the oil. There should be just enough broth to cover the rice; if not, remove the excess broth with the ladle. Tightly cover with a lid and cook until the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed, about 20 minutes.

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When the rice is finished, arrange the rice on a large platter. Scrape the crust from the bottom of the pot and place in a bowl to be served on the side. Arrange the fish and vegetables in the center of the rice. Serve with lime wedges.

For the Rof Makes: About 1 cup • • • • • • •

3 garlic cloves 1 bunch parsley, coarsely chopped 1 white onion, coarsely chopped 3 scallions, chopped 1 vegetable or fish bouillon cube (optional) 1 tablespoon chile flakes 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

Place all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until coarse, or pound in a mortar with a pestle. Reprinted from “Senegal: Modern Senegalese Recipes from the Source to the Bowl” by Pierre Thiam with Jennifer Sit (Lake Isle Press, 2015)

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Carefully remove the fish and set aside in a large bowl. Cover and keep warm. Add the guedj and yeet (or 1/4 to 1/2 cup fish sauce) to the pot. Partially cover the pot, leaving the lid ajar, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage, turnip, eggplant halves, squash, yuca, carrots, and bitter eggplants (if using). Return to a boil and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and simmer for another 20 minutes. Add the okra and cook for 10 more minutes, until the vegetables are tender.

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D10

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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/FELIPE DANA

Guide to Visiting Rio for the Olympics, From Safety to Samba By Jenny Barchfield RIO DE JANEIRO—With the Olympics just a few weeks away, Brazil faces a litany of problems: an economy in freefall, the Zika virus, and a political crisis with an impeached president. But for those brave—or foolhardy—enough to make the trip, Rio de Janeiro is a city rich with potential rewards. Broadcasters have already deemed the city’s backdrop for the Summer Games the most telegenic ever. But no matter how good this teeming seaside metropolis, where the urban jungle and the literal jungle meet, looks on TV, footage simply can’t compare with the experience of actually being here. Here’s a Q&A on tips for visiting Rio, from staying safe to samba parties: Q: Is Rio safe? A: With an estimated 85,000 police and soldiers patrolling the streets during the games—twice the security contingent in London in 2012— Olympic and local officials have insisted Rio will be “the safest city on earth” during the Aug. 5–21 games. Still, violent crime is a fact of life in this city, starkly divided between haves and have nots, so it’s best to keep a low profile. For Cariocas, as Rio’s 6 million residents are called, low-key dressing is de rigueur for both safety and practicality. Havaianas, the Brazilian flip-flop brand, are Rio’s uncontested footwear of choice. And the city’s golden-sand beaches make board shorts and T-shirts, or hot pants and tank tops, a uniform for rich and poor alike. (While Rio’s Southern Hemisphere winters tend to be mild, thermometers can dip in August into what Cariocas consider the bone-chilling depths of the mid-60s, so pack a sweater or light jacket.) Watches and jewelry not clearly made from plastic are best avoided, as is using cellphones in public or conspicuously carrying camera equipment. Electronics are extremely expensive in Brazil, and a smartphone can cost several months’ worth of salary for locals, so it’s best to keep them under wraps. If you do get mugged, don’t react or fight. Hand over your possessions calmly and without hesitation. It’s only money and/or stuff. And no matter how much of a pain the ensuing nightmare of card cancellations proves, it’s not worth getting injured. Q: Do people speak English? A: In a word, no. Outside Olympic venues and high-end hotels and restaurants, most Cariocas only speak Portuguese, though they might know a few words of English or Spanish. On the other hand, most people are eager to help foreigners and will resort even to pantomime to get their point across. Q: What’s for dinner? A: If you go to one of the myriad “churrascaria” (shoe-hass-car-EE-ya) all-you-can-eat Brazilian barbeque joints, the answer is meat, meat, and more meat. Roving waiters brandishing spits stacked with cuts of prime beef, lamb chops, pork sausages, and even wizened black chicken

Low-key dressing is de rigueur for both safety and practicality.

AP PHOTO/LEO CORREA, FILE

Benedict monks leave the Mosteiro de São Bento church after Mass in Rio de Janeiro.

AP PHOTO/FELIPE DANA

AP PHOTO/FELIPE DANA

The Olympic beach volleyball venue still under construction on Copacabana beach in Rio de Janeiro on July 5.

Experience a “roda de samba,” or live samba music, at the birthplace of Brazil’s most famous musical genre.

hearts will insist on refilling your plate till you verge on bursting. For vegetarians or those recovering from a meat overdose, options are limited. Best bets include corner juice bars offering a cornucopia of freshly squeezed tropical fruit juices, as well as acai (ah-sa-EE)—a deep purple Amazonian palm berry that’s frozen, blended, and served as a slushy.

ing backdrop for the Olympic sailing races. But rather than just ogling the iconic rock, why not hike it? A guide is necessary to scale the Sugarloaf itself, but its stumpier twin, the Morro da Urca, is doable without help. A mud path winds through tropical vegetation to a summit with peerless views over the city’s dense patchwork of towers, hillside “favela” slums, and mist-enshrouded rainforest.

Q: Is there public transportation? A: The city’s metro line is being extended to serve the beachfront Leblon neighborhood and reach the far-western Barra da Tijuca neighborhood, where Olympic Park is located. But the project is behind schedule and may not be finished in time for the games. Buses are confusing, packed, dangerous, and generally best avoided. Cabs are plentiful and decently reliable—just make sure your cabby turns the headlights on after dark. (Many won’t.)

Sunset at Arpoador: Take in the sun’s spectacular nightly performance as it sinks into the Atlantic from atop the Arpoador rock formation in between Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. The crowd there raucously applauds the glittering show, night after night.

Q: Besides sports, what is there to do in Rio during the games? A: Plenty. And the good news is, the best things in Rio are free. Rio was hard hit by the recession, with the economy shrinking last year by 4 percent, sending unemployment and inflation soaring. The nosedive of the local currency, the real, has made Rio much cheaper for visitors spending dollars or euros. But the cost of hotels and restaurants can still be shocking. Savvy travelers can staunch the bloodletting by taking advantage of the city’s many free attractions: Sugarloaf Mountain: The sheer granite outcropping that presides over the waters of the Guanabara Bay will no doubt prove a breathtak-

The sun rises behind Sugar Loaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Pedra do Sal: Experience a “roda de samba,” or live samba music, at the birthplace of Brazil’s most famous musical genre. Monday nights bring hordes of aficionados to this former slave market in the Gamboa region of historic downtown for an open-air dance party. Centro: Rio’s beaches tend to steal the thunder, but the Centro downtown region, where the city got its start 451 years ago, is a treasure trove of colonial-era churches and historic monuments. Perhaps the most stunning among them is the Mosteiro de São Bento, a Baroque church and working monastery where monks perform Gregorian chants during Sunday Mass. Get there early to snag a seat. Also in Centro is the Portuguese Royal Reading Room, a 19th-century gem of soaring jacaranda hardwood bookshelves and stained glass windows, tucked into the newly rehabilitated Praca Tirdentes. From The Associated Press

What Color Is Paella? The Answer, From a Barcelona Chef ALL PHOTOS BY MARJORIE M. MILLER/AP

By Marjorie Miller BARCELONA, Spain—Of course we are familiar with the Spanish rice dish paella, we say. It is the color of a Mediterranean sunrise, a coral red or saffron yellow. Chef Rosa Camprodon shakes her head. Or maybe that’s a shudder. She is our instructor at a Barcelona cooking school that caters to tourists, and she is teaching us to make paella Catalonia-style: a rich coppery brown. Camprodon tosses finely diced onion into a pan of hot olive oil and has one student stir it. Add the tomato, and stir. Never let it sit on the flame, she says. Never let it burn. Add rice and stir 15 minutes in all, or until the mixture is a deep brown, ready for other ingredients. “There are as many paellas as there are cooks,” Camprodon says. “But paella is not red or yellow. It is brown. The darkness depends on how long you caramelize the onions in their own natural sugar.” Chefs are nothing if not opinionated about food. The menu at Cook and Taste was gazpacho, roasted vegetables, and cod over flatbread, seafood paella and, for dessert, crema Catalana. Our diverse group of 12 from the U.S., Singapore, and Australia had much to learn and eat in four hours: The ham must be room temperature so the fat melts over the meat to bring out the flavor. The cockles for the paella should be cleaned in cold water with salt “so it feels like home,” Camprodon said. The mussels, well,

“they are very sociable, you know,” so you must remove the thin beard-like membrane they use to cling to each other and to rocks. We prepared dessert first so it would have time to chill. One group whisked egg yolks and milk infused with lemon peel and cinnamon. The scented mixture was poured into terracotta dishes and refrigerated. Another group diced and blended gazpacho, using the traditional tomato, cucumber, green pepper, and garlic along with unusual ingredients: watermelon and beets. Camprodon prepared flatbread dough ahead, so it could rise before baking. We roasted eggplant, onions, and red peppers, then peeled the peppers and cut all of the vegetables into strips. We cooked the cod in hot olive oil with garlic and cayenne. The bread was cut into squares and layered with vegetables and fish. Finally, the paella. “This is a social event. We make it on Sundays with kids everywhere and sometime people fight, ‘No, I make the best paella, I do it better...’ but there is plenty for everyone to do. This is hard work,” Camprodon explained. We took turns stirring onions and adding the vegetables, rice, and a saffron-garlic paste, making sure to spread the ingredients evenly in a pan. “No empty spaces, please,” Camprodon said. She added plenty of salt but not as much as locals seem to like. Cockles, mussels, and shrimp were laid on top, then fish stock was poured into the pan

Chef Rosa Camprodon shows students how to make Cataloniastyle paella with seafood in Barcelona, Spain, on June 8. and brought to a boil. “Another rule of paella: Never, ever stir after the stock has been added,” she said. “Ideally, the rice is a little al dente.” We ate gazpacho and flatbread as the paella cooked. At last, it was ready—and as delicious as it looked. We savored the flavors but left room for the finale: our Catalan dessert, topped by sugar caramelized with a kitchen blowtorch. We left sated, educated, and ready for a siesta. The color of a Cataloniastyle seafood paella depends on how much you caramelize the onions.

IF YOU GO... Cook and Taste: 65 euros ($72; children halfprice), cookandtaste.net From The Associated Press


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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY VADIM GHIRDA/AP

Members of Parliament attend a session at the Parliament Palace in Bucharest in 2011.

BEST OF BUCHAREST

Eclectic Architecture, Palace of Spring By Alison Mutler BUCHAREST, Romania—Bucharest was once known as the “Little Paris of the East.” But English, not French, is the preferred foreign language in Romania’s capital city, and 96 percent of its inhabitants are native Romanians. Bucharest buzzes with an energetic, roundthe-clock vibe. The city also features an eclectic mix of architecture reflecting a variety of cultural influences across decades and even centuries. What’s New Some new attractions await visitors, while face-lifts make a few familiar places worth a return visit. The Palace of Spring, the official family residence of the communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu, opened its gilded doors to the public in March. It was the Ceausescu family home until 1989, when he was ousted from power and executed. Richard Nixon, the late U.S. president, once dined there. The glitzy decor includes a bathroom decked out in gold, mosaics in the swimming pool, and a movie theater where the walls are upholstered with plump gold cushions. A pair of peacocks roams the garden. Ceausescu’s pants, his wife Elena’s shoes, and an old black-and-white TV are all on display. Tours cost 15 lei to 45 lei ($3.68–$11). The “Wings” monument, dedicated to the hundreds of thousands of victims of communism, was unveiled in May, in front of Bucharest’s House of the Free Press, a Soviet-inspired building where a statue of Lenin once stood. It is 30 meters (98 feet) high, an intricate web of concrete wings. Though it’s clunky rather than graceful, it is a massive concrete reminder of the political detainees who were held in communist prisons or deported and persecuted. Romanians love the arts, particularly theater. The National Theater underwent a 75-million euro ($82.5 million) four-year revamp; its original facade, covered with arches, now has a distinctly Le Corbusier look to it, with large, smooth curved forms. Classic Attractions Ceausescu’s giant palace in the south of the capital, the world’s second-largest administrative building after the Pentagon, is a mustsee. It houses the Parliament and important conferences are held there. In December, shepherds angry with government policy almost managed to storm the building. It’s a 3-kilometer (1.9-mile) walk around the building, and a large Orthodox cathedral, the Salvation of the People, is being built on its grounds, a cause for some controversy.

Other essentials include Revolution Square, the National Art Museum (housed in an old royal palace), the 19th-century Atheneum concert hall, and the old Communist Party headquarters. Ceausescu and his wife Elena fled from the roof of that building in a helicopter in December 1989 to get away from the booing crowd. It was their last public appearance. Tips Take a Bucharest City Tour Sightseeing bus for 25 lei ($6.20). With 14 stops on the route, you can hop on and off as often as you want within 24 hours. For the more energetic, there are bicycle rentals and bike lanes on some boulevards. There are hardly any hills (Bucharest is a mere 70 meters or 230 feet above sea level) but drivers can be aggressive. Otherwise, ubiquitous yellow Dacia taxis are cheap and zippy, costing 1.4 lei (35 cents) a kilometer. A subway ride is a surefire way to avoid heavy traffic, with two rides costing 5 lei ($1.23 ). In June, the national airport company took the welcome decision to cap taxi fares. Authorized taxis will charge a maximum of 1.4 lei a kilometer (0.6 miles) from the Henri Coanda Airport in an effort to stop legendary rip-offs. A ride into Bucharest should cost about 35 lei ($8.60). Shopping is a favorite pastime, and many shops are open until 10 p.m., with some 24/7 convenience stores too. Exchange bureaus are generally reliable and don’t charge commission. Smoking was banned in indoor venues in March.

Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

Hanging Out Centrul Vechi, or Old City, is very popular, with a maze of bars, clubs, restaurants, and shops, and the 16th-century Old Princely Court Church, clustered on a few streets close to the imposing National Bank of Romania. For those in search of peace and quiet, Bucharest’s fabled parks have a lot to offer. There is the elegant 19th-century Cismigiu Gardens, where you can watch locals play chess and backgammon or take a stroll. Farther north, there is the fashionable and sprawling Herestrau park next to the ethnographic Village Museum, featuring different styles of rural houses. You won’t be able to visit the royal Elizabeth Palace next door, but the small Botanical Gardens in Cotroceni district is worth a visit, or if you want to get to know the “real” Bucharest, head south to the splendid IOR park, by taking the train to Titan subway station, or the 330 or 335 bus. From The Associated Press

212-594-4963

A boy rides a bicycle next to the memorial for those killed in the 1989 A man and child visit the new “Wings” monument celebrating anti-communist uprising in Revolution the memory of the anti-communist resistance. Square in 2013.

10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours


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July 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

Hacking Your Packing

6 Tips for Your Next Family Vacation Before kids, packing for vacation might have included some basic toiletries and the number of outfits you’d need for the number of days you’d be away. If you forgot something, it was no big deal. Packing for an entire family, however, affects a number of people, requires planning, calls for high-level strategy, and involves lists, consultants, and numerous sleepless nights. Okay, it’s not that bad, but you do want to be prepared for anything that may come up when traveling with kids. With that in mind, here are six easy tips to make packing for your next trip easier. Bag Your Bags Garbage bags, reusable bags, and a laundry bag don’t take up much room but sure can come in handy when you’re away. Whether you’re covering up a stroller or a piece of luggage when a rain shower suddenly appears, or you’re simply separating your clean clothes from those that need to be laundered, you’ll be glad you took time to pack these. If you love to shop on vacation, packing an empty, soft piece of luggage or duffle bag is also a great idea. Speaking of Bags Don’t forget to pack the all-too-useful clear, zip-top bag. Bring along a bunch in various sizes to waterproof or sandproof your phone and for grabbing an on-the-go snack when you leave your hotel room for the day. My favorite use of these ubiquitous baggies is to pack your kids’ outfits separately. Rather than managing who’s wearing what each morning, use clear gallon-sized bags to contain an outfit for each day of the trip, complete with accessories, so that each child just needs to grab and go. Cameras for the Kids Let the kids have free reign on the trip to take

their own pictures. This gives them something to do along the way, inspires creativity, and helps them to feel involved. Later, seeing the experience from their vantage point will be priceless. Who knows, perhaps you’ll like their shots better than yours. Don’t Forget Snacks At the very minimum, bring lollipops, which are helpful on plane rides when hunger strikes and when sensitive ears begin to pop. If you’re staying in one place for the duration of your trip, consider having groceries delivered upon your arrival. If hitting the road, take advantage of the lack of TSA restrictions and stock your car with food to keep in the hotel room. Bring water; fruit and nuts, or your favorite snacks; cream for your coffee; cereal and milk; disposable cups, bowls, and utensils; and any other kitchen comforts you’d enjoy. You’ll naturally eat most meals outside the room, but you’ll afford your family the luxury of relaxing in the room with snacks at hand, or eating an easy breakfast in pajamas some of the time without the trouble or expense of ordering room service.

SUNNY STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK

By Barbara Danza | Epoch Times Staff

Packing for an entire family calls for high-level strategy.

Keep Kids Safe To keep your children safe, bring along pocket travel cards with emergency contact information, or consider temporary tattoos in case they get lost. Instruct your child that in an emergency situation they should seek out a police officer, security guard, or responsible adult and use the information to get help to reunite with you quickly. Drumroll Please My favorite hack I’ve come upon is this: To separate the soles of your shoes (ew) from the rest of what you’ve packed in your luggage, pack each pair in a shower cap. Brilliant! (Thanks, Pinterest.) Enjoy your time with your family and enjoy your travels!

CASEY REARICK VIA AP

Cleveland’s Ohio City Area: West Side Market and Craft Beer

AP PHOTO/BETH J. HARPAZ, FILE

By Beth J. Harpaz

Venture Into Thailand’s

Spicy Northeast

at

ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!

Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.

ESANATION 750 9th Avenue • New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 • esanation.com

West Side Market Nothing celebrates Cleveland’s ethnic heritage like the food at the West Side Market: pierogis, Hungarian-style sausage, strudel, and more. Locals can shop for groceries, hungry visitors can get ready-to-eat food ranging from tamales to cupcakes, and out-of-towners can pick up

(Left) Beers at the Market Garden Brewery; (Right) the historic West Side Market. gifts like honey, spices, gourmet popcorn, and jams. Don’t miss the clock tower, 137 feet tall; the 44-foot-high tiled, vaulted Guastavino ceiling, and the head of a longhorn steer overlooking Foster’s Meats. Located at 1979 W. 25th St., the market is open Monday and Wednesday, 7 a.m.–4 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 7 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sundays, noon–6 p.m.; closed Tuesdays and Thursdays.

For anybody who loves historic architecture, Ohio City offers lots of eye candy.

AP PHOTO/BETH J. HARPAZ

• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.

CLEVELAND—Growing up in the 1980s, Sam McNulty often visited the food vendors at the West Side Market, located in Cleveland’s Ohio City neighborhood. “I kind of fell in love with the neighborhood back then, even though it was considered sketchy,” said McNulty. By the 1990s, when McNulty interned with a community development organization, “the neighborhood was still largely boarded up—not a place you wanted to be after dark,” he recalled. “But you were starting to see little glimmers of hope.” Today Ohio City offers visitors a very different impression. There’s a booming craft beer and dining scene with some 40 eateries, many concentrated around West 25th Street. McNulty opened his first restaurant, Bier Markt, at 1948 W. 25th St., over 10 years ago; today he co-owns five restaurants in the area, including two of the brewpubs Ohio City is now known for. Meanwhile, the West Side Market, more than a century old, isn’t just some vestige of a bygone era. It’s a vibrant, bustling retail food center with more than 100 vendors and a million annual visitors. And for anybody who loves historic architecture, Ohio City offers lots of eye candy: quiet residential streets lined with beautifully restored Victorian homes. The neighborhood expects to be busier than usual with Cleveland hosting the Republican National Convention July 18-21. McNulty says he fielded requests to book his restaurants solid with GOP events, but decided to book up just one venue each night so the other four would be open to the public. “We’re excited to show off all the good things happening here,” he said. “It’s going to be a good time.” Here are some details on visiting Ohio City.

The beautifully restored Victorian homes in Ohio City’s historic district sport turrets and columned front porches.

Victorian Architecture Dozens of charming Victorian homes—from simple cottages to Italianate mansions—can be found along quiet residential streets in the heart of Ohio City’s historic district, which stretches to West 44th Street. Look for quirky turrets, windows in many geometric shapes, lacy wooden spindlework and broad, columned porches. Some homes are adorned with flags and flowers, some are painted in whimsical colors. Dining, Breweries, and More Brothers Patrick and Daniel Conway helped pioneer Ohio City’s resurgence and its craft beer industry when they opened the Great Lakes Brewing Co. in 1988 at 2516 Market Ave. Today Great Lakes is one of a half-dozen breweries in the neighborhood, and one of several offering a tour. McNulty’s Market Garden Brewery, 1947 W. 25th St., also just started hosting tours. Other businesses along the West 25th Street corridor and surrounding streets include ethnic restaurants; the Glass Bubble Project, a glassblowing studio that creates artwork from recycled material; and Mitchell’s Ice Cream, located in an old theater at 1867 W. 25th St. There’s even a 6-acre urban farm where locals grow produce; a farm stand operates Friday-Saturday, 9 a.m.–3 p.m., June–November, at West 24th Street and Bridge Avenue. From The Associated Press


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