Epoch Taste 7-1-2016

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CANADIAN TOURISM COMMISSION

D1 July 1–7, 2016

Sweet Treats in Red, White, and Blue on D8

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Diners enjoy the view of Montreal from the St. Lawrence River, aboard the Le Bateau-Mouche cruise ship.

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SUMMER FEVER

In Montreal, it’s the season to seize the day

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By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

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ONTREAL—Summers in Montreal have a feverish intensity to them. It’s as if all the fun that could be had year-round is squeezed into the space of a few warmth-blessed months. See Summer Fever on D2

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(Above left) The Montréal Cirque Festival celebrates the circus arts. (Bottom left) Pupusa, a Salvadoran specialty, at Resto Los Planes. (Above right) Jean-Talon market is beloved by locals and tourists alike. (Bottom middle) Relaxing at La Fontaine Park.


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@EpochTaste

July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com TOURISME MONTREAL, STEPHAN POULIN

Place Jacques-Cartier.

SUMMER FEVER

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My first visit to Montreal was over 10 years ago when I decided, on a contrarian whim, to spend spring break somewhere different. It was February and frigid. I shopped the boutiques lining the 20 miles of underground tunnels, and caught a Habs game. My memories remained of gray and snow, and I never went back—until last month. And what a glorious difference: in summer, carpe diem rules. “Montreal is a schizophrenic city: dark and fairly gloomy in the winter and ecstatic in the summer,” wrote filmmaker Jean-François Lesage in an email interview. “Montrealers have to survive a very harsh winter lasting almost six months of the year. So come summer, people go crazy. “They start shedding off their clothes, sunbathing in the park, and walking down the streets of the city half naked. The bar and cafe terraces fill up. People party all the time and everybody falls in love, or wants to be.” In city parks, the hillsides, rocks, and grass become reclaimed furniture, as public spaces turn into outdoor living rooms. Then there’s the Mountain or La Montagne, as Mount Royal Park (Parc du Mont Royal) is known. It was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, who also worked on Manhattan’s Central Park. Mount Royal is the setting of Lesage’s latest documentary, “Un Amour S d’Éte,” (A Summer E M I CH T EP O Love), for which PP/ I L HI

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he eavesdropped on and documented conversations about love in the park. “I discovered a very beautiful landscape of people,” he said, “mostly young people, because I was shooting my film after dark when the park is normally closed. There is a great cultural and linguistic diversity on the mountain that reflects what I love about my city.” Multicultural Montreal Much of the travel literature about Montreal presents a binary city: old and new, English and French. But Montreal is also very multicultural. “People [on the tours] generally flip out over how Montreal is so multicultural and how we embrace that difference that makes us so unique, yet so ‘Montreal’ at the same time,” said Danny Pavlopoulos, the co-founder of Spade & Palacio Tours. Pavlopoulos himself is an example. “I’m halfGreek and half-Peruvian and 100 percent Montreal,” he said. After working at other tour operators, he decided to create his own tour company, through which he felt he could show visitors what was authentic and real about Montreal. I took his Beyond the Market tour, which brings visitors to Little Italy’s Jean-Talon market, a place beloved by locals and tourists alike. There are prepared foods, such as foraged fare (marinated wild ramps at Les Jardins Sauvages), incredible sausage (figatelli from Les Cochon Tout Ronds), and one of the best mango sorbets I’d ever had, from Havre-aux-Glaces. Pavlopoulos was a fantastic guide: passionate about the city, funny, knowledgeable, and with an impeccable sense of pacing. We ate or drank throughout the afternoon, but it was neither too much nor too little. After Jean-Talon, the tour also brought us through the surrounding streets. On one block, a huge Vietnamese video store sat across the street from a Latino grocery store. I don’t want to give away all the locations we visited on his tour, but aside from the market, I hadn’t seen these places on any must-do travel lists. They were real finds, by virtue of the quality of the food. At one restaurant, we picked up a wicker basket and headed to the local park to unpack a picnic blanket, Mason jar glasses, and bona fide utensils and plates, for eating scrumptious fried chicken, hush puppies, and a number of homemade hot sauces. I asked if we needed to leave a deposit to ensure we’d return our picnic gear, but my question hung in the air for a while. The thought of someone not returning the wicker basket was inconceivable to them. “Nothing,” somebody said finally. “You don’t have to leave anything.”

Come summer, people go crazy. Jean-François Lesage, filmmaker

CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

Summer Fever continued from D1

Mango and coconut sorbet at Havre-aux-Glaces.

Les Premiers Vendredis (First Fridays) is the largest gathering of food trucks in Canada.

In the park, on a Saturday midafternoon, I spotted at least half a dozen red and white checkered picnic cloths—some on the ground, some at the park tables. Drinking is permitted in the parks. “It’s the one beer, one sandwich rule, which has become more of a bottle of rum, one Snickers rule,” said Pavlopoulos. It’s Always the Season for Poutine Walking around in various neighborhoods, I started seeing poutine shops on nearly every block. There is never an offseason for poutine and the creative adornments for the basic fries, gravy, and cheese curds seem endless. But if you want to be really decadent (because why stop, when you’re already putting gravy on fries?), try the foie gras version from Au Pied de Cochon (which translates to pig’s foot). Through all that glorious cheese-and-gravy mess, it starts to be impossible to tell where the foie gras chunks melt into the savory brown gravy. To those not used to it, the cheese curds add an unusual but fun element, with their squeaky, bouncy texture. And freshly cooked fries are the perfect canvas for it all. You could go to the restaurant, where you can pick from a whole section of the menu devoted to foie gras (“Chicken Nuggets with Fg,” “Fg & Boudin Checkerboard,” and the “Fg Hamburger” are some of the items). Better yet, head to Olympic Park, where on Friday evenings in warm weather, more than 50 food trucks—most from Montreal—congregate. You can get the foi gras poutine at Au Pied de Cochon’s food truck, and many other CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

The foie gras poutine from the Au Pied de Cochon truck is as decadent as it sounds.


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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

MONTREAL’S SUMMER FESTIVALS Here’s Just a Sampling of Festivals This Summer: Festival International de Jazz features jazz at 1,000 concerts at 15 indoor and 10 outdoor venues (June 29–July 9). montrealjazzfest.com L’International des Feux Loto-Québec is an international fireworks competition (July 2, 6, 9, 16, 20, 23, 27, and 30). laronde.com/fr/larondefr/ linternational-des-feux

The popular Agrikol serves rum-based cocktails. CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

Africa, the Caribbean, and Latin America. It includes 500 artists from over 30 countries (July 12–24). festivalnuitsdafrique.com/en Haiti on Fire! is dedicated to the arts and culture of Haiti (July 25–31). haitienfolie.com Montreal First Peoples Festival highlights American Indian and Inuit cultures (Aug. 3–10). presenceautochtone.ca/en

Montréal Complètement Cirque (Montreal Cirque Festival) highlights the circus arts (July 7–17). montrealcompletementcirque. com/en Just for Laughs is the world’s largest comedy event, with over 2,000 shows, including more than 1,200 free ones (July 16–31). hahaha.com Zoofest features emerging comedians, artists, and musicians (July 7–30). zoofest.com Festival International Nuits d’Afrique features music from

Montreal’s Italian Week Festival celebrates the culture, art, and gastronomy of Italy (Aug. 5–14). italianweek.ca OSM Classical Spree Festival (Aug. 10–13) features indoors and outdoor concerts by the Orchestre Symphonique de Montréal. vireeclassique.osm.ca/?lang=en Montreal World Film Festival features films from over 80 countries (Aug. 25-Sept. 5). ffm-montreal.org Festival Yul Eat celebrates the local cuisine of Montreal (Sept. 3–5). festivalyuleat.com/en COURTESY OF JUST FOR LAUGHS

Coffee beans are freshly ground with a few revolutions of the pedals. Café Pista serves pedal-powered java.

fine options await. On my visit, one of the best eats I had, aside from the poutine, was an Asparagus Caesar from Landry & Filles, which you can easily spot by its white-on-blue stag logo. The asparagus was addictive, lightly dressed with an umami-rich dressing. The folks behind the truck also own a restaurant of the same name, where as of last week chef Marc Landry was serving a kohlrabi carpaccio with summer honey and sesame seeds. He’s also been experimenting with a Pacojet, an appliance that purées frozen foods without the need to thaw them first. As a result, you’ll spot purple corn ice cream on the menu. The crepes soufflées from La Cabane à Crêpes, a food truck that’s been designed to look like a rustic log cabin, were also excellent. These little golden, delectable crepes are cooked in oil and covered with either powdered sugar or drizzled with maple syrup. And of course, there are so many poutines it’s hard to keep track of them all—ribs poutine from Le Smoking BBQ, Mexican poutine from Mi Corazon, bacon poutine from Bacon Truck. There was even a truck, La Boîte à Fromages, that I smelled before I saw it. It served raclette, that pungent cheese that can radiate an aroma of stinky feet. (This is not an insult, just a fact.) Apparently Montrealers didn’t think a thing of enjoying this cold weather dish of melted cheese over potatoes in the heat of summer. The food truck event is also probably the only place where I’ve seen a Relais & Châteaux chef with his own food truck. Chef Jerome Ferrer’s Europea Mobile is the little sibling-on-wheels to his acclaimed restaurant Europea. Many chefs on Montreal’s dining scene have embraced a casual vibe. “Gone are the days of white tablecloths,” Pavlopoulos said. “Here we don’t go to the restau-

rant to be seen, we go to enjoy our experience and our food, and the quality of the produce. The skills of our young chefs make it so easy.” At Etre Avec Toi (shortened to E.A.T and meaning “to be with you”), located at the W Hotel, for example, table side service is provided. Enthusiastic and impeccable staff prepare before your eyes anything from Jackie Robinson cocktails to decadent mounds of meringues with housemade sorbets, drizzled with chocolate sauce and caramel sauces. But the ambiance is far from stuffy and or even formal; street art adorns the walls and DJ-designed soundtracks are played. With commercial rents going up, young entrepreneurs have taken to less expensive neighborhoods like Mile-Ex, where you might stroll around residential streets and be surprised to stumble on some culinary gems. On Rue Saint Zotique O, garage doors open to reveal some of the city’s best iced coffee at Dispatch Coffee, where the vibe is low-key and hipster. Next door is the celebrated Restaurant Manitoba, whose chefs are serving New Canadian fare. You’ll find there smoked bone marrow with puffed Manitoba rice, corn powder, and herb salad; Deer Steak with sautéed greens; and boar and chicken liver pâté with wild berries and black walnuts. Pavlopoulos can tell the summer has arrived, “when the Bixi bikes get installed and when we see businesses working on their temporary patios. When Alexandraplatz Bar opens, we say to ourselves, ‘This is gonna be a fivemonth hangover!’”

COURTESY OF SPADE & PALACIO

FABRICE GAETAN

Just for Laughs, the world’s largest comedy event.

夏のメニュー

SUMMER PLATES AT DONGURI A sampling of our summer menu

Sweet Corn Tempura Grilled Black Cod Marinated with White Miso Traditional Clear Soup Mochidoki Ice Cream Match Green Tea, Salted Caramel, Passion Fruit

For more information about visiting Montreal, see tourisme-montreal.org and quebecoriginal.com/en The trip was arranged by Tourism Québec in cooperation with Tourisme Montréal.

Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.

Chef Yamasaki

RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 Danny Pavlopoulos and Anne-Marie Pellerin, founders of Spade & Palacio Tours.

309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave) The team from Landry & Filles.

Chef’s Tasting Kaiseki Menu Always Available, $150


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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF WHISKEY FRIED CLASSIC

WHISKEY FRIED CLASSIC Pair whiskey with delicious Southern food at the Whiskey Fried Classic, the upscale backyard barbecue. Unlimited bites will be served by more than 20 New York restaurants, including Jacob’s Pickles, The Donutologist, Manila Social, and Delaney Barbecue. Over 100 drinks will be on offer, from vendors including Teeling Whiskey, Templeton Rye, James E. Pepper Distilling Co., George Dickel Tennessee Whisky, and more. $85 to $125 per person.

stuff to eat and drink around nyc

Saturday, July 9 1:30 p.m.–9 p.m. Brooklyn Expo Center 72 Noble St., Brooklyn whiskeyfriedclassic.com

FIREWORKS AND SOUTHERN CHEFS: A TASTE OF GEORGIA

Food and drinks at the Whiskey Fried festival.

Celebrate Independence Day with some good ol’ Southern food, courtesy of top Georgia chefs Adam Evans (Brezza Cucina), E.J. Hodgkinson (King and Duke), Nick Leahy (Salt Yard), Duane Nutter (One Flew South), and Matthew Roher (The Landings Club, Savannah). They will serve classic Southern dishes like fried chicken, watermelon salad, cornbread, and braised collards. There will also be unlimited pours of wine, cocktails, beer, and cider. Best of all, you’ll get to watch the Macy’s July Fourth fireworks from the waterfront. $100 to $200 per person.

COURTESY OF WHISKEY FRIED CLASSIC

COURTESY OF WHISKEY FRIED CLASSIC

Monday, July 4 4 p.m.–10 p.m. Solar One at Stuyvesant Cove 500 E. 23rd St. cookoutnyc.com

JULY FOURTH PARTY AT MR. PURPLE

ASTORIA FLEA AND FOOD

Rooftop bar and restaurant Mr. Purple is hosting a poolside party for the Fourth of July, with excellent views of the fireworks over Lower Manhattan, hot dogs, beer, frozen margaritas, and a live DJ. $25 per person.

The Astoria Flea and Food night market is returning to Kaufman Astoria Studios, an outdoor film studio, for three weekends. Food vendors include Jessy’s Pastries, Jae NYC Eats, and more. There will also be a diverse range of antiques, crafts, clothing, and collectibles.

Monday, July 4 4 p.m. Mr. Purple 180 Orchard St. 15th Floor mrpurplenyc.nightout.com

CANNOLI CREAM We sell a lot of cannoli at Patsy’s. We have a bakery make the shells for us, and I recommend that you buy yours, too. Everyone loves our house-made filling. Somewhere along the line, we discovered that the ricotta cream is an amazing dip for fresh strawberries. Now, we serve it almost every day at our family lunch table when we all get together for a meal between lunch and dinner service about 3 P.M. If you are using this to fill large cannoli, double the recipe for 12 shells. Cannoli Cream • 1 pound whole milk ricotta, preferably fresh • 2/3 cup granulated sugar • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract • Zest of 1/2 orange • 1/4 semi-sweet miniature chocolate chips • 1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped candied citron 1. To make the cannoli cream: Set a wire mesh sieve over a medium bowl and line it with paper towels. Put the ricotta in the bowl and top with a paper towel and a saucer or bowl to fit inside the sieve. Refrigerate and

The best restaurants and chefs in the Flatiron neighborhood will convene for one evening at Madison Square Park. Participating restaurants include ABC Kitchen, Cosme, Boqueria, Hanjan, The NoMad, Eataly, Eleven Madison Park, Shake Shack, Num Pang Sandwich Shop, The Cannibal, and more. The party will also feature cocktails, craft beers, and New York wines. $200 to $350 per person.

Saturday, July 9, July 16, & July 23 Kaufman Astoria Studios 34-12 36th St., Queens facebook.com/astoriaflea

Recipe from Patsy’s Italian Restaurant.

Makes 6 to 8 servings; about 2 cups cannoli cream

CELEBRATE FLATIRON CHEFS 2016

Our only location 236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com

Tuesday, July 12 5:30 p.m.–8:30 p.m. Madison Square Park madisonsquarepark.org

BASTILLE DAY AT JAMES BEARD HOUSE

WEEKEND LUNCH AT ROBATAYA NY

To celebrate Bastille Day, executive chef of the Hyatt Regency in New Orleans, Eric Damidot, will prepare a special dinner at James Beard House. His dishes, marrying Creole and classic French tradition, will include Braised Duck Rissole with Louisiana shallot aioli; Louisiana Redfish with Papa Tom coarse grits, artichoke barigoule, Kalamata olives, and lemon jus; Maine Lobster “Hareng”-Style Salad with red bliss potatoes, carrots, red onions, and fried leeks; and more—all paired with French wines. $170 per person ($130 for members).

Japanese barbecue restaurant Robataya NY in the East Village is now offering its grilled-to-order menu for lunch on weekends. The chefs prepare your chosen barbecue dish in front of you and serve it up on a long wooden paddle. Options include Long Island duck; veggies like eryngi mushrooms, asparagus, and eggplant; and fresh seafood like hokke (mackerel filet) and hotate (scallop grilled in umami soup).

Thursday, July 14 7 p.m. James Beard House 167 W. 12th St. jamesbeard.org/events

Robataya NY 231 E. Ninth St. robataya-ny.com

COURTESY OF OOTOYA

let the excess whey drain into the bowl. Discard the whey. (Draining the whey is the secret to our cannoli cream. Some cooks use impastata, a thick ricotta cheese made specifically for desserts, but I find it too grainy. This method gives smooth results, even with commercial grocery-store ricotta.) 2. Beat the drained ricotta, sugar, orange zest, and vanilla in a medium bowl with a hand-held electric mixer on high speed until the mixture looks a bit fluffier than when you started, about 1½ minutes. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the chocolate chips and citron. 3. Transfer to a bowl and cover. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days. Serve chilled. This recipe can be found on page 190 of my new cookbook “Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook.” A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.

SPARKLING COCKTAILS AT OOTOYA Japanese restaurant Ootoya is now serving sparkling sake cocktails with Poochi Poochi (which translates to “the sound of bubbles popping” in Japanese). The fruity, refreshing drinks come in Yuzu, Lime, Grapefruit, Cranberry, Tangerine, Calpico, and Peach (similar to a bellini) flavors. Ootoya All New York locations ootoya.us

The Sou ffle Fell For the top photo on D1 on June 24 (“This Summer, Hit the Road”), the caption was incorrect. The photo featured the Great New York State Fair. Epoch Times regrets the error.


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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com NEILSON BARNARD/GETTY IMAGES FOR NYCWFF

2016 NYC WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL Tickets are now on sale for the epic New York City Wine and Food Festival, returning in October. This year will feature more than 100 events with top chefs and restaurants, such as a Nordic breakfast with chefs Claus Meyer and Gunnar Gislason; street eats with chef Michael Mina; an Asian night market with chef Andrew Zimmern; a bagel-making class with Black Seed Bagels; handmade noodle-pulling with Biang! and Xi’an Famous Foods; and a class on cooking vegetables with chef Michael Anthony. All proceeds go to No Kid Hungry and the Food Bank for New York City. Tickets now on sale for Thursday, Oct. 13–Sunday, Oct. 16 nycwff.org

Chef Giada De Laurentiis at the Italian Feast event last year.

COURTESY OF DOS CAMINOS

DOS CAMINOS ‘GUACTAILING’ MENU

Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.

Mexican restaurant Dos Caminos has launched a new guacamole and cocktail menu for the summer. The guacamole menu includes three fresh combinations, each served with salsa and tortilla chips: the La Flaca, with watermelon, ginger, mint, queso fresco, and cucumber chips; the Langosta with steamed Maine lobster, grilled corn, mango, fresh basil, and plantain chips; and the Campechano with smoked bacon, chorizo, and chicharrones. Cocktails include margaritas like the Honeydew with Cimarron Reposado tequila, honeydew melon, and hibiscus salt; the Grilled Grapefruit with Riazul Blanco tequila, grilled grapefruit, and agave; and the Frozen Prickly Pear with cactus fruit and strawberry.

The Nuaa 1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) • 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com

Dos Caminos All locations doscaminos.com

Guac and cocktails at Dos Caminos.

COURTESY OF PEARL’S

PEARL’S COCKTAIL MENU Just in time for the summer, Caribbean restaurant Pearl’s has a new happy hour menu. Libations include Margarita with jerk salt rim; Dutty Wine Sangria; Pearl’s Rum Punch with rum, apple, watermelon, and orange juice, angostura bitters, and brown sugar; Frozen Rude Boy with lime juice, ginger, and dark rum; Sorrel Shandy, with sorrel and crisp Carib Lager; Monday–Friday 4 p.m.–7 p.m. Pearl’s 178 N. Eighth St., Brooklyn pearlsbakeandshark.com

Authentic Japanese GMO

Cocktails on Pearl’s menu.

FREE

Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff

When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)

• Dessert

$48/per person

Openings around NYC

A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)

Sammy’s House of BBQ

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com COURTESY OF SAMMY'S HOUSE OF BBQ

Owner Sammy Benmoha, Pit Master Lou Elrose (Wildwood BBQ and Hill Country), and designer Ray Trosa have opened a new BBQ restaurant in Midtown Manhattan. Sammy’s House of BBQ is serving up hearty, meateater classics, like Big Lou’s Spicy Porkapalooza, a beef patty with Carolina pulled pork, hickory smoked bacon, pepper jack cheese, raspberry BBQ sauce, lettuce, tomato, and pickles; and Texas Smoked Brisket, beef brisket rubbed with salt, pepper, and cayenne, then smoked low and slow for 14 to 16 hours; along with a variety of chicken and seafood dishes, salads, and BBQ platters. The three-floor roadhouse restaurant is filled with themed decor, from reclaimed barn wood and burlap cattle feed sacks to framed meat cleavers and an antique two-man saw. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner.

258 W. 44th St. (between Seventh & Eigth avenues) 212-944-6900 sammys houseofbbq.com

Maman Maman, the popular South of France-inspired cafe and bakery, has opened up its fourth and fifth locations: Maman Greenpoint and Maman at ICP Museum. Both feature vintage decor and serve coffee, pastries, and healthy lunch options from Michelinstarred chef Armand Arnal. Maman at ICP Museum also features a to-go window for coffee and cookies. To celebrate its partnership with the International Center of Photography, Maman at ICP Museum is releasing a limited edition ICP Museum and Maman coffee cup featuring a photograph from photographer and photojournalist “WeeGee.” Future coffee cups will showcase other museum exhibitions.

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine

CAMILA GUTIERREZH

Maman Greenpoint 80 Kent St. (at Franklin Street) Greenpoint, Brooklyn Maman at ICP Museum 250 Bowery (between East Houston & Stanton streets) mamannyc.com Maman Greenpoint.

Compiled by Channaly Philipp & Crystal Shi/Epoch Times Staff

• Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866


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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

THE NEW AMERICAN TRADITION

For the

Fourth of July

GO SOUTHERN By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

Come try our creative approach to brunch, lunch, and dinner—on Murray Hill.

557 3rd Ave @ 37th Street New York, NY 10016 (212)686-8080 | www.hendriksnyc.com | Follow us

For Virginia Willis, who grew up in southern Georgia, Fourth of July celebrations were always about the food. The chef and James Beard Award-winning cookbook author said in an email interview that in her family, the big holiday meal always includes potato salad, coleslaw, and tender baby back ribs, if she’s “being patient.” Fourth of July food traditions reflect the rich variety in Southern cuisine, from the ways of preparation to the cuts of meat. “In Texas, you can count on beef brisket, whereas in Georgia, it will be some kind of pork, and in Alabama, it might be smoked chicken,” Willis said. “Then, on the coast in South Carolina, there might be a low country boil with shrimp, sausage, corn, and potatoes. And in Louisiana it’s likely to be a crawfish boil.” But no matter where you are in the incredibly hot South, one other Fourth of July tradition will be the same—cooling off in some body of water, whether that’s a backyard pool, a lake, or the ocean. Below, Willis shares some recipes for a feast worthy of the Fourth of July.

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana

RECIPE

Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops

BOURBON GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH PEACH BARBECUE SAUCE Serves: 4 Makes: 3 cups sauce

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

Pure Peruvian Cuisine Ceviche, Our signature dish

Happy Hour Mon-Fri 4pm- 7pm Free Peruvian chicken wings after 2nd drink

Live Entertainment 7pm-10pm, every Friday

718-224-8505 • 39-32 Bell Blvd, Bayside, NY 11361 www.piurarestaurant.com

Pork chops are a tender, quick-cooking cut of meat. In fact, so quick-cooking, that they are actually very easy to overcook. Cooking these chops on the bone, instead of using boneless chops, will help the pork cook more evenly, and make them less likely to dry out. Just make sure to trim away as much fat as possible for healthier results. The tangy Peach Barbecue Sauce, flavored with the zip of ginger and vinegar, and sweetened with natural honey, would be incredible on grilled or roasted chicken, as well. I’ll be honest with you, this is a splurge meal since we’re cooking the meat on the bone and serving it with barbecue sauce—a planfor-it, make-sure-to-work-out-that-day dinner. But, it’s worth it! I find it so depressing for someone to say to me, “Oh, you can’t have that on your diet, can you?” It’s not about “no,” it’s about saying “yes!” I can have anything as long as I am accountable with my exercise and stick to my plan. So, believe me, I am going to gnaw on this bone until it shines.

• 4 peaches (about 1 1/4 pounds), halved, pitted, and quartered • 2 medium ripe tomatoes, seeded and quartered • 1 tablespoon canola oil • 1 sweet onion, chopped • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar • 1/4 cup honey • 2 tablespoons bourbon • 1/4 cup coarse kosher salt, plus more for seasoning • Freshly ground black pepper • 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar • 2 cups boiling water • 3 cups ice cubes • 4 center cut, bone-in pork chops, about 1-inch thick, well trimmed (2 3/4 to 3 pounds)

DIRECTIONS In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade, puree the peaches and tomatoes until smooth; set aside. Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the ginger and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the reserved peach-tomato puree, vinegar, honey, and bourbon; season with salt and pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, then decrease the heat to simmer. Cook until the mixture is reduced by half and thickened, about 20 minutes. Taste and adjust for the seasoning with salt and pepper. Reserve 1/4 cup sauce for basting the chops, and keep the remaining sauce warm in the saucepan until ready to serve. Meanwhile, place the remaining 1/4 cup salt and brown sugar in a medium heatproof bowl. Pour over the 2 cups boiling water and stir to dissolve. Add the ice cubes and stir to cool. Add the pork chops, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate to marinate, about 30 minutes. (Do not marinate any longer or the pork will be too salty. If you can’t cook it right at the 30-minute mark, remove the pork from the marinade and refrigerate until ready to continue.) Remove from the brine, rinse well, and thoroughly dry pat with paper towels. Set aside. Season the pork chops with pepper. Prepare a charcoal fire using about 6 pounds of charcoal and burn until the coals are completely covered with a thin coating of light gray ash, 20 to 30 minutes. Spread the coals evenly over the grill bottom, position the grill rack above the coals, and heat until medium-hot (when you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grill surface for no longer than 3 or 4 seconds). Or, for a gas grill, turn all burners to high, close the lid, and heat until very hot, 10 to 15 minutes. Or, preheat a grill pan over medium-high heat until hot. Place the pork chops in the grill pan or on the grill and grill for 3 to 5 minutes per side or until the internal temperature reaches 145 F, brushing with Peach Barbecue Sauce in the last few minutes. Remove to a plate and cover with aluminum foil to rest and let the juices redistribute, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately with reserved warm sauce on the side. Reprinted with permission from “Lighten Up, Y’all by Virginia Willis © 2015. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Penguin Random House, Inc. Photography © 2015 by Angie Mosier.


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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

RECIPE SASSY SLAW Serves: 6 Makes: 4 cups One of the most heinous crimes of my childhood was to sass my mama. Still is. Believe me, “talking back” and “being sassy” did not go over well, at all. My sweet little mama is a whole lot of power in a tiny package. One raise of one eyebrow was enough to put the fear of the Lord in my sister and me. I was raised saying “yes, ma’am” and “no, sir.” I’m still pretty old-fashioned that way, although I now simultaneously giggle and grimace when those terms of respect are used with me. While a sassy child is a definite no-no, this sassy slaw packs just the right amount of panache, with its hearty splash of apple cider vinegar and a double dose of mustard. I suggest making the dressing first, then setting it aside so you can chop your vegetables.

• • • • • • •

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 1/4 teaspoon mustard powder 1/4 teaspoon celery seed 2 tablespoons canola oil 1/4 large green cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and finely shredded (about 3 cups)

• 1/4 large red cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and finely shredded (about 3 cups) • 1 large carrot, grated • 1 green onion, trimmed and chopped • 1/2 jalapeño chile, cored, seeded, and chopped • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley • Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, mustard, mustard powder, and celery seed. Heat over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside to cool slightly. Add the oil and whisk to combine. In a large bowl, combine the green and red cabbage, carrot, green onion, jalapeño, and parsley and toss to combine. Pour over the reserved slightly cooled dressing. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until chilled, about 15 minutes. Toss, taste and adjust for seasoning again, then serve immediately. Reprinted with permission from “Lighten Up, Y’all by Virginia Willis © 2015. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Penguin Random House, Inc. Photography © 2015 by Angie Mosier.

RECIPE

Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

COCA-COLA–GLAZED BABY BACK RIBS Makes: 20 pieces

RECIPE MEME’S BLACKBERRY COBBLER Serves: 6 to 8 • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter • 4 cups fresh blackberries • 1 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling, if needed • 1 cup all-purpose flour • 2 teaspoons baking powder • Pinch of fine sea salt • 1 cup whole milk • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract • Whipped cream, crème fraîche, or ice cream, for accompaniment

Coca-Cola is to Atlanta as Guinness is to Dublin. Friends and family liked my CocaCola–Glazed Wings so much that I decided to try a similar combination on pork. Pork has a natural affinity for sweet, rich caramel flavors. These “nouveau” Southern ribs are by no means traditional, but they are lipsmacking good. Scotch bonnet peppers are intensely hot, but their fire is tempered by the sweetness of the sugar and Coke. To tone down the heat, substitute jalapeños instead.

• 1 cup Coca-Cola Classic • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar • 1 1/2 cups firmly packed light brown sugar • 2 Scotch bonnet chiles, chopped • 2 racks baby back ribs (3 pounds total) • Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Melt the butter in a large cast-iron skillet or ovenproof baking dish in the oven, 5 to 7 minutes.

To make the glaze, in a small saucepan, bring the Coca-Cola, vinegar, brown sugar, and chiles to a boil over high heat; reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until syrupy, about 10 minutes. Decrease the heat to low and keep the sauce warm while the ribs cook.

Place the blackberries in a large bowl. Using a potato masher, mash them to release some of the juices. If the berries are tart, sprinkle over some of the sugar. To make the batter, in another bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the 1 cup sugar, milk, and vanilla extract, and stir until evenly blended. Remove the skillet from the oven and add the melted butter to the batter; stir to combine. Pour the batter all at once into the skillet, then add the blackberries and juices to the center of the batter. Bake until the top is golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the batter comes out clean, about 1 hour. Serve, hot, warm, or at room temperature with whipped cream, crème fraîche, or ice cream. Reprinted with permission from “Bon Appétit, Y’all, by Virginia Willis, copyright 2008, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Photography copyright 2008 by Ellen Silverman.

Preheat the oven to 325 F. Liberally season both sides of the ribs with salt and pepper. Place the ribs on a broiler pan and bake for 30 minutes, glazing the ribs occasionally with the Coca-Cola mixture. Turn the ribs over and continue to cook for an additional 30 minutes, glazing occasionally, or until the ribs are tender and the meat is starting to pull away from the bone. When the ribs are cooked through, set the oven to broil. Liberally spoon half of the remaining glaze over the ribs and broil until glazed a deep mahogany brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn over; repeat with the remaining glaze, an additional 5 to 7 minutes. Serve immediately with lots of napkins. Reprinted with permission from “Bon Appétit, Y’all,” by Virginia Willis, copyright 2008, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Photography copyright 2008 by Ellen Silverman.

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D8

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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

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PAVLOVA For the Strawberry Consommé • 1 pound frozen strawberries • 1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar For the Passion Fruit Cream • 2 eggs • 1 cup sugar • 1 1/2 cups passion fruit juice • 12 ounces butter, room temperature

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For the Meringue • 3 egg whites, room temperature • 1 cup granulated sugar • 1 tablespoon cornstarch • 1 teaspoon lemon juce

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July Fourth is right around the corner, and America is gearing up for its annual birthday bash. It’s a day full of rowdy parades, dazzling fireworks, and of course, delicious eats. Expect buildings, people, and food alike to be decked out in patriotic red, white, and blues, as Americans take to the streets and their grills to celebrate the nation’s independence. Join the celebration with these festive red-whiteand-blue-themed desserts. Cool off with refreshing layered popsicles filled with fruit and coconut milk, or creamy vanilla chia pudding loaded up with healthy toppings—both dairy-free and refined-sugar-free treats you can quickly whip up at home. For a slightly more indulgent option, try your hand at The Wayfarer’s airy pavlova, made with passion fruit cream, fresh berries, Chantilly cream, and strawberry consommé. The bright, fruity flavors and sweet, crisp meringue make a dreamy combination. Then, turn to the skies to watch the fireworks light up the night—best enjoyed with friends, family, and a happily full stomach.

RECIPE

Authentic & Delicious

Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla!

Hinata’s Special

COURTESY OF THE WAYFARER

By Crystal Shi | Epoch Times Staff

An Authentic Bit of Tokyo

Sweet Treats in Red , White, and Blu e

DIRECTIONS For the Strawberry Consommé Toss the strawberries and sugar together in a heat-proof bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in a warm place, like inside a gas oven with a pilot light, for 8 to 10 hours. Strain the mixture without pressing on the fruit and store in the refrigerator for up to a week.

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HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) • 212.355.2974

For the Meringue Place egg whites in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip the whites on medium speed until it reaches the ribbon stage, when the whites hold the trail from the whisk. Slowly add 3/4 cup of sugar, a tablespoon at time until fully incorporated. Turn the mixer to high speed and continue to whip until the sugar is completely dissolved. You can check this by rubbing the meringue in between your fingers. If you feel the sugar, continue to whip until the meringue is completely smooth. Mix the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar with the cornstarch until thoroughly combined. Once the meringue is ready, take the bowl off the mixer and fold in the cornstarch and sugar mixture in 2 to 3 additions. Then fold in lemon juice. Spoon the meringue onto a sheet pan with parchment and dry in a 200 F oven for about 30 minutes, a longer for larger pavlovas. Store in an airtight container and use within 24 hours, or store in the freezer.

For the Passion Fruit Cream Mix the eggs, sugar, and passion fruit juice the bowl of a double boiler until it reaches 180 F on an instant-read thermometer. You will know when you’re getting close when the color of the foam matches the custard and begins to dissipate.

To Assemble the Pavlova Spoon some passion fruit cream on a plate and place the meringue on top of the passion cream.

Take the custard off the heat and allow to cool to between 140F to 130 F.

Put the consommé in a small pitcher like a gravy boat and pour some over the pavlova and around the plate.

Then mix in the butter with an immersion blender.

Recipe courtesy of pastry chef Leona Sager, The Wayfarer, New York City

Store in the refrigerator for up to a week.

Spoon some whipped cream on top of the meringue and arrange fresh berries on top of the cream.

COURTESY OF DANIELLE WALKER

RECIPE RED WHITE AND BLUE POPSICLES Serves: 10–12

Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.

Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *

AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.

Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939

Awarded One of the 10

BEST PIZZAS IN NYC

Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.

For the Red Layer • 2 cups strawberries, halved and hulled • 1 cup raspberries • 2 tablespoons honey • 1 tablespoon lime juice For the White Layer • 1 cup full-fat coconut milk • 3 tablespoons honey • 1 tablespoon lime juice For the Blue Layer • 3 cups blueberries • 2 tablespoons lime juice

DIRECTIONS Place all of the ingredients in the Red Layer in a high speed blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl with a spout for easy pouring. Pour into popsicle molds. Place in freezer for 40 minutes until frozen. While the Red Layer is freezing, make your White Layer. Mix all of the White Layer ingredients in a bowl. Once fully combined, pour into popsicle molds on top of the Red Layer. Place back in freezer and freeze for 40 minutes. While the White Layer is freezing, make the Blue Layer. Place all of the ingredients for the Blue Layer in the blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl with a spout for easy pouring. Pour on top of frozen White Layer. Place

the popsicle tops with sticks in the partially frozen popsicles. Place the popsicles in the freezer and freeze overnight. Recipe courtesy of Danielle Walker. She is the author of New York Times best-selling cookbooks “Against all Grain” and “Meals Made Simple.” Her third cookbook, “Celebrations: A Year of GlutenFree, Dairy-Free, and Paleo Recipes for Every Occasion” launches on Sept. 27.


D9

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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF SEED TO SPROUT

RECIPE VANILLA BERRY CHIA PARFAIT Serves: 1 • 1/4 cup chia seeds • Fresh blueberries • Goji berries • Unsweetened coconut flakes For the Vanilla Cashew Soak • 1 cup filtered water • 1/3 cup raw cashews • 1/3 cup raw agave nectar • 1 tablespoon coconut oil • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract • Pinch sea salt

DIRECTIONS In a high speed blender, process the Vanilla Cashew Soak ingredients until creamy. Transfer to a bowl and whisk in chia seeds. Let sit 15 minutes, stirring once or twice. Transfer to refrigerator to chill. Layer 1/4 cup chia pudding, 1 tablespoon blueberries, 1/4

cup chia pudding, 1 tablespoon goji berries, 1/4 chia pudding. Top with blueberries, goji berries, and coconut flakes. Enjoy! Recipe courtesy of Alexandra Mazzucca and Cara Pescatore, co-owners of Seed to Sprout, Avon by the Sea and Fair Haven, N.J.

Marinating Salmon in Juice Can Make a Delicious Difference By Melissa d’Arabian I try to get fish on my family’s table two or three times a week. The research describing the incredible heart and brain benefits to eating fish, especially fatty fish like salmon, is compelling. An extra bonus? Fatty fish is more filling, too, which means I’m less hungry for late night snacks a few hours after dinner. However, many home cooks shy away from making salmon, thinking it is too strong or fishy. With a few tips, you can be on your way to restaurant-quality salmon dishes. First tip: Buy salmon straight from the fish counter. Because it is so perishable, the fish counter will often have gorgeous wild salmon on sale. The fish should smell like a salty ocean, not fishy. Buy it and make it the same day. Second tip: Use high heat, and don’t overcook. The longer salmon cooks, the stronger the flavor, so a quick high-temp cook will keep the flavor mild, making outdoor grilling an ideal method for salmon cookery.

Cook to medium rare for best results—the interior of the salmon should be still pink and moist, not completely opaque, and certainly not dry enough to be flaked. Last tip: try marinating the salmon to balance the flavor. Even a simple marinade of a little lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper will make a noticeable, if subtle, difference in the final result. My secret ingredient for salmon marinades is pineapple juice, which adds both a little sweetness and a touch of acid, both ideal for a good flavorful soak. Once you try this simple recipe, you’ll be grilling salmon all summer long. And in the winter: take heart—this recipe works beautifully for oven-roasting, too. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press

MELISSA D’ARABIAN VIA AP

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RECIPE PINEAPPLE JUICE-MARINATED SALMON Prep & Cooking Time: 15 minutes (not including marinating time) Serves: Varies • 1/2 cup pineapple juice • 1/4 cup soy sauce • 2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger • 1/4 cup chopped green onion • 1/4 teaspoon sriracha, or other hot sauce • 2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil • Parsley and lemon slices for garnish, optional • Four 5-ounce fillets of wild salmon

DIRECTIONS Mix the pineapple juice, soy sauce, ginger, green onion, and oil in a medium bowl. Place half the marinade in a small bowl and set aside. Place the salmon fillets in the medium bowl and coat well with the marinade. Marinate for 20 minutes or up to 12 hours. When ready to serve, heat the grill to medium high. Grill the fish until just cooked through, about 4 minutes per side. Meanwhile, heat the reserved marinade in a small sauce pan until simmering. Spoon on the cooked salmon to serve. Garnish with chopped parsley and sliced lemon, if desired. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian

Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.

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July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU

Grilled abalone at a Taiwanese night market.

Sun-drying persimmons in Hsinchu, Taiwan. Taiwanese pancakes.

Fusion cuisine at the Sun Moon Restaurant in Nantou, Taiwan. Dan Zai noodles of Tainan, Taiwan.

Join in Taiwan’s

‘Era of Pure Food’ T

he diverse and vibrant food culture of Taiwan is going on show this August at the annual Taiwan Culinary Exhibition. Events and activities highlighting the delicacies, customs, and recent innovations present a savory and refined opportunity for the connoisseurs of cuisine—not just of Taiwan but also from the Chinese mainland and Japan. To be hosted this year in the Taipei World Trade Center from Aug. 5 to Aug. 8, the annual exhibit was first launched in 1989 and has a different overall theme each year, like Eye of the Artistry in 2012, or Wheel of Food-Travel in Taiwan in 2014. The theme for 2016 is Pure Time of Taiwan, highlighting six culinary fields.

In Taiwan’s culinary traditions, many dishes are prepared by bathing ingredients in the sun.

Xiaolongbao steamed dumplings.

Sponsored Content

A Spectrum of Food The exhibition presents an authentic experience of the region’s “pure food,” bringing

Mochi rice cakes at the National Palace Museum.

back true tastes and delicious original flavors by combining “the skills of renowned chefs, creative tableware, local culinary customs and conditions, the joy of travel, and the essence of food education,” according to the official website. They have a lot to work with. Just the first exhibit area, the Arts of Culinary, features nine attractions. Among these are a cooking contest, instructional sessions with senior chefs, and seasonal meals prepared and showcased by almost 50 Taiwanese hotels and restaurants, alongside demonstrations of the art of culinary arrangement. For regional flavors, the traditional foods of Taiwan’s 16 indigenous tribes, as well as tribes from mainland China, Japan, and other countries, will be represented by chefs and restaurant operators invited to participate in the exhibition. The varied and unique cuisine of the Hakka Chinese ethnic group, who live in communities around the island, is represented by the Hakka Good Food map. Local Highlights Prominent at the exhibition are not just worldclass cuisines and chefs from Taiwan and abroad, but also the rich native customs and techniques found around the island nation. The development and culture of Taiwanese tableware will be presented at a platform for exchange and business between hotels and craftspeople. Tableware design, as the exhibition brochure mentions, goes hand in hand with Taiwan’s charming and refined street snacks. In the exhibition area Ingredients of Culinary, the Council of Agriculture has planned a forum to promote local Taiwanese produce,

grown, and sold by small farmers who share “the dedication, beauty, and diversity of Taiwan’s agriculture with the world.” In Taiwan’s culinary traditions, many dishes are prepared by bathing ingredients in the sun—an integral step in a variety of tasty recipes. Wine aficionados also won’t be disappointed— the exhibition features a diverse range of Taiwanese fine wines. On the Go Included at the exhibition is the Formosa Railroad Bento Festival, which features participants from Japan and other countries in promotion of international railway culture. At the center of this event is the bento, a Japanese word for lunchbox meal. From the coast to the mountains, Taiwan is home to all manner of refined snacks sold by street vendors, represented by an event planned by the government of Changhua County. Culinary presentation merges into the souvenir industry, whose business it is to further refine and develop the traditional Taiwanese courtesy of gift-giving. Multiple food gift shops have been invited to offer their wares at the exhibition, which offers a home-delivery service for visitors. And it’s not just souvenirs that guests will take home with them. In a section subtitled “fan pu gui zhen,” or Return to the True Essentials, exhibit staff provide education about dietary and environmental awareness, helping visitors choose foods healthy for them and the planet. Hands-on activities and other immersive programs are sponsored by Taiwanese government agencies, public welfare groups, and schools.


D11

@EpochTaste

July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SUSAN MONTOYA BRYAN/AP

Park Service Project Shares Stories of Women Along Route 66 By Susan Montoya Bryan ALBUQUERQUE, N.M.—It was a man’s world nearly a century ago when one of America’s most famous highways got its start, opening up vast expanses of the West as it created an automobile artery that stretched roughly 2,400 miles from Chicago to the West Coast. But it wasn’t only men behind the wheel or working in the service stations and cafes along historic Route 66. The National Park Service and the nonprofit Cinefemme have partnered to create an online historical record of the experiences of women and girls along the Mother Road. Writer and project director Katrina Parks said she was surprised by the diverse ways in which women’s lives intersected with the road, from the pioneering female architects who designed buildings along Route 66 to the waitresses, shopkeepers, postmasters, and others who kept daily life humming. Then there are artists like Dorothea Lange, who traveled part of the route through Oklahoma, New Mexico, Arizona, and California during the 1930s and captured through her photographs the struggles of migrant farm families. There are stories about the daughters of Mexican and Chinese immigrants who made their homes in the West and opened family grocery stores, laundries, and restaurants along the route. Threads of discrimination, determination, adventure, and perseverance run through the women’s stories. “We saw there was this great narrative about Route 66 out there that tended to be focused on the traveler’s experience,” said Kaisa Barthuli, who works with the National Park Service Route 66 Corridor Preservation Program. “We realized that Route 66, as a symbol of America, had the potential to tell so many deeper stories. It’s about pulling out these lesser known

Women’s lives intersected with the road, from the pioneering female architects, to the waitresses, shopkeepers, and others who kept daily life humming.

Author John Steinbeck called Route 66 “The Mother Road” in his master work, “The Grapes of Wrath.”

Virginia Tellez Wayne, who worked along Route 66, holds an old photograph of herself. stories that really help people connect and understand our history.” The project was funded through a cost-sharing grant from the Park Service. The website is expected to evolve, and Parks plans to use the oral histories she has collected for a documentary. The women’s stories cover several decades, from the road’s beginnings to its current rebirth. The first half of Virginia Tellez Wayne’s life centered around the route in Gallup, New Mexico. The oldest of 14 children, she started working two and three jobs early on to support her siblings and later her five sons. She worked as a Harvey girl, greeting and serving troop trains, tourists, and movie stars at Fred Harvey’s El Navajo Hotel, El Rancho, and the Shalimar— all fixtures along the highway. Nicknamed “Smiley” by the troops, Tellez Wayne had a way with her customers and many became friends. She also made aprons for fellow waitresses and uniforms for men who worked at the service stations. “If it weren’t for us women, there wouldn’t be no 66,” she said, laughing. “We were into everything.” Now 94, Tellez Wayne lives in Albuquerque with her son in a home that backs up to old Route 66 on the western edge of the city. She donated her Harvey uniform to a local museum but swears she still has her No. 17 waitress

For more information, visit route66women.com From The Associated Press

A Perfect Fusion of East & West

On London Trip With Teen as Consultant, Harry Potter’s a Must AP PHOTO/ROSS D. FRANKLIN

By Ross D. Franklin LONDON—Every summer, our family vacations somewhere different. This year, with our son hitting his teens, we went international with 10 days in London. The planning was a team effort: My wife was in charge of the budget, while I was in charge of airfares and the hotel. Our son played consultant, voting yes or no. We saved $1,000 on airfare by taking connecting flights rather than flying direct. Then, using Booking.com, we spent hours researching hotels. The map icon interface was great: Pick a neighborhood, zoom in, click on the hotel. With flights and lodging booked, we moved on to the itinerary. Our son had two mustsees: the Imperial War Museum and Harry Potter studio tour. We bought advance tickets for Potter, two theater shows, and a range of tours. With rain jackets and electric converters packed, we were ready. So how did it all work out? Our flights involved a series of unfortunate events, including plane trouble in Chicago and lost luggage on the way home. We had to keep reminding ourselves, “but we saved $1,000!” An expensive cab ride from airport to hotel marred our arrival in London. But our hotel, Citadines South Kensington, did not disappoint. The location was ideal, four blocks from the Gloucester Road tube station, with plenty of restaurants nearby. An Italian eatery, Da Mario, became a favorite. We even knew somebody dining there our first night— the airport cabbie who’d charged a fortune. We took the double-decker sightseeing bus on our first morning as a no-stress introduction to the city, followed by a tour of the London Eye, getting a bird’s-eye view of all we’d just seen. With a teen who grew up reading Harry Potter, the Warner Bros. Studio Tour—The Making of Harry Potter was essential. We saw props, costumes, and sets, including Platform 9 3/4, the Night Bus, Harry’s cubbyhole at Number 4 Privet Drive, and a miniature Hogwarts campus. You can get filmed riding your very own Nimbus 2000, or pile the family into the Weasley invisible car for a group photo. At the massive gift shop, you can easily drop a few hundred

tag somewhere among her books and boxes of memories. A fellow at the University of New Mexico’s Center for Southwest Research, Donatella Davanzo, has been working to document every building along Route 66 in Albuquerque, home to the largest uninterrupted segment of the road left in an urban area. A native of Italy, she took her first trip down the Mother Road in 2006. “I started to consider the historic corridor as a cultural landscape able to connect American history and local places and communities,” she said. Davanzo worked her way along Route 66, walking from the Sandia Mountains on the city’s east side to the mesa on the west. She took 7,500 photographs over two years. They’re now part of the collection at the research center. Parks, too, acknowledged the infectious nature of Route 66. “It still for me has a sense of freedom and adventure, which I think is what captives so many people,” Parks said. “It’s just this idea that it’s an escape from the monotonous and that means a more personal interaction with people and slowing down to make time for the unexpected.”

Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!

Shangri La 208 7th Ave.

(btw. 7th & 8th avenues)

(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge

Tourists stroll along the Diagon Alley movie set at The Making of Harry Potter studio tour in London. quid. But skip the butter beer at the food court— oh, it’s horrible. For a real-life adventure, try biking through London. Besides navigating throngs of wandering tourists, we dodged buses, cabs, motorcycles, and delivery lorries (trucks). We hadn’t planned a firsthand look at the U.K. National Health Service, but I added to the bike adventure with an ambulance ride after hitting the pavement head first and suffering a concussion. Our son was enthralled by the history lesson at the Guy’s and St. Thomas’ Hospital on Westminster Bridge; Florence Nightingale set up a nursing school there, and it was bombed by the Germans during World War II. So the emergency room visit was not a total loss. Our son calls us the “history geek” family, so we enjoyed our day at the Imperial War Museum. And since no London trip would be complete without a little royal pomp, we watched the changing the guard ceremony at Buckingham Palace. All in all, involving our son in planning and researching our trip was key, and can be an effective way to engage teenagers who might otherwise never look up from their screens. One additional word to the wise: If you go biking in London—or anywhere else—wear a helmet. From The Associated Press

With a teen who grew up reading Harry Potter, the Making of Harry Potter studio tour was essential.

Classic Margherita Pizza

Arugula, Garlic & Sunny Side Eggs Pizza

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“the pizza is super thin-crust, crispy and delicious. you can smell the wood burning stove a block away...” ZAGAT USER

Roasted Eggplant, Zucchini & Olives Pizza

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“The wood fired oven along with the homemade cheese just can’t be beat. ” PM

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“Love it. Thin crust, very good choice of topping. Unbeatable Beer pitcher price.” CB

PIZZA LOVE Cut fresh herbs onto your amazing wood fired oven pizza. Made in just 5–7 minutes.

800 6th Ave (btwn 27th & 28th St) (212) 213-5042

WaldysPizza.com


D12

@EpochTaste

July 1–7, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF BOQUERIA

Boqueria’s

Bold Take on Tapas Pintxos Morunos, a popular Moorish lamb skewers dish from the Andalusia region of Spain.

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

T

he Spanish were early masters at creating small plates. Tapas, as story has it, were born when Spaniards used plates to cover their wine glasses to keep out flies. Eventually, people decided to put delicious morsels of food on top. A moment of ingenuity thus gave rise to an entire culture of cooking, eating, and drinking. The tapas at Boqueria (with locations in New York City and Washington) showcase “Spanish DNA,” but are made bolder in flavor to gratify New Yorkers’ palates, said chef Marc Vidal. The Gambas al Ajillo ($16), for example, are traditionally prepared with just shrimp, garlic, guindilla pepper (a traditional pepper from the Basque region), and olive oil. But Vidal decided to make a sauce with the heads of the shrimp and a dash of pimentón (paprika)—a lip-smacking concoction that you’ll want to dip and soak every piece of bread into. Another classic tapas dish, Patatas Bravas ($9), consists of fried potatoes with spicy tomato sauce. Vidal drizzles a layer of roasted garlic aioli on top, making the pillowy bites all the more comforting. Spain has rich and varied regional cuisines, with each area boasting its own signature tapas. But there are some common characteristics, chef Vidal explained, such as the fond use of ingredients like garlic, tomatoes, olive oil, and saffron. The result is dishes brimming with umami, usually in the form of delicious sauces waiting to be sopped up. The Fideuà Negra ($19) is like a seafood paella in noodle form: squid inktinged noodles are charred to a crisp and cooked with sofrito, a common base sauce made by simmering onions, peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil for hours. Then Vidal adds

a big dollop of garlic aioli on top. Mix everything together, and you’ll taste the sea, enveloped by the aroma of the wonderfully pungent and moreish sauce. Piquillos Rellenos ($16) are piquillo peppers stuffed with tender shreds of braised oxtail, but what makes the dish special is the creamy, earthy celery root purée that accompanies it, cooked with shallots and red wine jus for a rich savoriness that almost resembles melted cheese. Different parts of Spain have their own customs for enjoying tapas, Vidal said. In the north, where Basque country is located, people typically share plates while standing by the bar. Tapas there are called pintxos, and are usually served on toothpicks. After several rounds of food and Txakoli, a white wine from the region, your party would move on to the next bar, and the ritual would repeat throughout the evening. In Barcelona and its surrounding Catalonia region—where Vidal is from—people usually go to just one restaurant each evening. But on Sundays, diners start the evening with an aperitivo, enjoying tapas as a prelude to the larger meal ahead. Vidal serves several regional pintxos, such as the Pintxos Morunos ($12), lamb skewers with a bright salsa verde; and Dátiles Con Beicon ($8), gooey dates wrapped with bacon, almonds, and funky Valdeón cheese—a winning combination. For a taste of Galicia, in northwestern Spain, try the Pulpo a la Plancha ($18), meaty octopus singed with smoke from the grill, paired perfectly with fennel and mashed potatoes. Leave room for dessert: the Churros Rellenos ($10), filled with Nutella, will satisfy your sweet tooth, as will Turrón ($7), a light almond-and-hazelnut cake, paired with dulce de leche ice cream and crunchy hazelnuts.

Boqueria

Multiple locations

Venture Into Thailand’s

Spicy Northeast

at

New York City: SoHo, Flatiron, Upper East Side Washington: Dupont Circle boquerianyc.com

ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!

• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.

Gambas al Ajillo, with a lip-smacking sauce made of shrimp heads and pimentón.

Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.

ESANATION 750 9th Avenue • New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 • esanation.com

Chef Marc Vidal, who grew up in Barcelona.

Piquillos Rellenos, piquillo peppers stuffed with tender shreds of braised oxtail, accompanied with a creamy celery root purée.


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