D1 Dec. 30, 2016–Jan. 5, 2017 The Secret to
Better Pasta on D7
www.EpochTaste.com Green Fig’s Not Kosher BBQ. The slow cooked pork ribs are served with kohlrabi salad, potato wedges, labneh, and zhug.
At Chicago’s GreenRiver, Executive Chef Aaron Lirette makes a farro salad with scallions, burrata, and almonds.
T ED @R A
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Zhug, a fiery Yemeni hot sauce made with Thai bird chilies, parsley, cilantro, and spices.
R
New Year,
Chickpea and ground lamb breakfast hash with zhug.
New Trends
U CO RT ES YO FM OR CC MI
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Tessa’s Cauliflower Frito Misto. Cauliflower continues to be popular.
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What will we eat in 2017? From Middle Eastern and African spices to up-and-coming ancient grains, trends draw from the world’s cuisines. By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
T
he year 2016 was full of exciting moments in the world of food. Quinoa, poke, and fermented foods became ubiquitous restaurant menu items. Vegetables dominated the plate as chefs and diners
turned their attention to eating in a healthier, more sustainable fashion. Looking to the future, what flavors will take over American pantries in the years to come? What ingredients will capture our appetites? See Trends on D5
Baharat,
a Middle Eastern spice mix, consists of black pepper, cumin, cardamom, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, and paprika.
COURTESY OF MCCORMICK
AN RUW
D2
@EpochTaste
December 30, 2016–January 5, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY
Cochon555’s Porky Tour Kicks Off in New York City
Saturday, Dec. 31 9 p.m. for dining room, 10 p.m. for bar The Lambs Club 132 W. 44th St. (between Broadway & Sixth Avenue) TheLambsClub.com
The Cochon tour will stop in 10 cities in 2017. Every year, five chefs in each touring city are given a heritage breed and are challenged to create six different dishes out of a whole pig. The winner from each city goes on to the final competition, to be held in 2017 in Chicago. In New York City, there will be a tasting event featuring dishes from chefs Nicole Gajadhar (Saxon & Parole), Ryan Bartlow (Quality Eats), Greg Baxtrom (Olmsted), Aaron Hoskins (City Grit), and Chris Szyjka (Chefs Club by Food & Wine). There will also be a special multicourse dinner at Saxon & Parole, showcasing food cultures and agricultural champions. There’s also a sommelier face-off for the best pork and wine pairing; a pop-up bakery with breads from La Brea Bakery; a station featuring artisanal cheeses; a tiki bar; and a cocktail bar featuring angostura bitters (for both food pairings and cooking). Proceeds from the event go to the Piggy Bank, a charity founded by Lowe that provides farmers struck by natural disasters with free heritage pigs and business plans. In 2017, the charity also hopes to launch its own farm in Missouri to raise heritage pigs. Attendees can donate to the cause. $125 to $400 per person.
GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY
Back when Brady Lowe first founded Cochon555— an annual festival celebrating heritage-breed pork— some rare breeds only had about a dozen pigs left in the country. Lowe said he created the Cochon event to educate people about why heritage pork is so important to our food system. Heritage pigs are raised on small family farms, without antibiotics or hormones. Preserving these breeds is not only good for our health, but keeps these ethically raised farms in business and promotes genetic diversity in the ecosystem, says Lowe. “It’s like a cycle of communal farming,” he said. Through the Cochon tour, he hopes consumers and chefs alike not only have a good time eating and drinking, but understand the benefits of consuming responsibly raised heritage pork. “Sometimes we get too caught up about the finished product on the plate, how it looks, how it tastes. But there’s a deeper meaning.” Heritage pigs in America date back to domesticated pigs that were brought over from Europe during the colonial era. Some of the imported pigs escaped and became wild.
Sunday, Jan. 29 4 p.m.–7:30 p.m. Weylin 175 Broadway (at Driggs Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn Cochon555.com/2017-tour/nyc
COURTESY OF TREADWELL PARK
Weekend Pick
Upper East Side beer hall Treadwell Park will be screening the Times Square ball drop on its 12 flat-screen televisions. Meanwhile, you can enjoy the selection of draft beers and bar bites like smoked pulled pork tacos and barbecued baby back ribs. On New Year’s Day and the day after, the beer hall will serve specialty bloody marys and brunch dishes, like house-smoked beef brisket and fried eggs, or poached eggs with avocado and Parmesan on curried quinoa.
CHRISTMAS FARE AT THE SHAKESPEARE
COURTESY OF THE LAMBS CLUB
The Dubai cocktail.
LATKE BURGER AT SCHNIPPERS For the Hanukkah season, Schnippers is offering a special latke burger: a beef patty, housemade latke (potato pancake), caramelized onions, and horseradish sour cream on an Orwashers Bakery onion roll. $8.99. Through Saturday, Dec. 31 All Schnippers locations, except One NY Plaza Schnippers.com
Saturday, Dec. 31–Monday, Jan. 2, 2017 Treadwell Park 1125 First Ave. (between East 61st & 62nd streets) TreadwellPark.com
COURTESY OF SCHNIPPERS
Calamari.
CASSOULET COOK-OFF AT JIMMY’S NO. 43
The British gastropub The Shakespeare is serving a traditional British holiday meal through the end of the month. For lunch and dinner, you can choose from the celeriac and roasted chestnut soup with crumbled Stilton cheese and truffled pumpernickel croutons; a traditional roast turkey dinner with chestnut, sage, and apple stuffing, bacon-wrapped chipolata sausage, sautéed Brussels sprouts, braised carrots, roasted potatoes, and gravy; or the Scottish salmon Wellington with wilted baby spinach and Champagne saffron sauce. For dessert, there’s plum pudding with rum sauce. $45 per person for lunch, $75 for a more expanded menu for lunch or dinner. Through Saturday, Dec. 31 The Shakespeare 24 E. 39th St. (between Madison & Park avenues) TheShakespeareNYC.com
At The Lambs Club near Times Square, guests can choose between sitting in the main dining room for a five-course dinner, with hors d’eouvres and Champagne to start, wine pairings during dinner, and desserts afterwards; or the mezzanine bar, with cocktails, passed hors d’eouvres, buffet stations featuring chef Geoffrey Zakarian’s signature dishes, and desserts. $425 per person for the dining room, $300 for the mezzanine bar. During the countdown to midnight, guests can join the Times Square festivities with exclusive access to 44th Street, which is closed to the general public.
Pig out for a good cause.
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
NEW YEAR’S EVE AND BRUNCH AT TREADWELL PARK
NEW YEAR’S EVE AT THE LAMBS CLUB
East Village bar Jimmy’s No. 43 is hosting its annual cassoulet cook-off. Attendees can sample more than 10 different cassoulets made by both amateur and professional chefs, and then vote on their favorites. A portion of the proceeds will go to charity. Drinks are available for additional purchase. $20 per person. Sunday, Jan. 15, 2017 1 p.m. Jimmy’s No. 43 43 E. Seventh St. (between Second & Third avenues) JimmysNo43.com
Weekend Pick
ASIA COLADNER COURTESY OF THE SHAKESPEARE
Yorkshire pudding.
NEW YEAR’S BRUNCH AT RIDER
Weekend Pick
To get you ready to tackle the new year, Rider in Williamsburg will be serving a special brunch, with options like Lox Fries with potato wedges, cream cheese, salmoriglio, and capers; Eggs Morty with English muffin, riddled mortadella, hollandaise, and home fries; and The Cure, with crispy rice, duck confit, cilantro, hoisin, sriracha, and poached egg. Sunday, Jan. 1, 2017 Rider 80 N. Sixth St. (at Wythe Avenue), Brooklyn RiderBklyn.com
A brunch spread at Rider.
D3
@EpochTaste
December 30, 2016–January 5, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com PIERRE MONETTA
BRUNCH AT F.O.B.
CASSOULET AND GALETTE DU ROIS AT BENOIT
Brooklyn’s recently opened Filipino restaurant F.O.B. is now serving weekend brunch. The menu includes Filipino breakfast staples and Filipino twists on American classics, such as Halo Halo waffles, with ingredients of the traditional halo halo dessert on top: fresh fruit, shredded coconut, red bean, jack fruit, and ube (purple yam) ice cream. Savory options include Picadillo, a dish of ground beef, potatoes, peas, carrots, raisins, and olives simmered with tomatoes; silogs, garlic fried rice and eggs with meat options like Filipino cured beef; spicy Filipino longanisa sausage; and corned beef sautéed with onions and garlic.
For a limited time only, Benoit will serve a family-style menu featuring cassoulet, the hearty French stew of white beans, pork, and duck ideal for the winter cold. The set menu will include an amuse-bouche, appetizer, and dessert. Available from Monday, Jan. 9 to Sunday, Jan. 15 at $60 per person for parties of two or more. Benoit is also making galette des rois, a cake traditionally made to celebrate the Epiphany. Benoit’s cake is filled with frangipane, a sweet almond cream. Available from Sunday, Jan. 1 to Tuesday, Jan. 31 at $29 (serves about 6). PIERRE MONETTA
Saturdays & Sundays 11 a.m.–3 p.m. F.O.B. 271 Smith St. (between Degraw & Sackett streets), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn FOBBrooklyn.com
AHMET KIRANBAY
Benoit 60 W. 55th St. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) BenoitNY.com
Benoit’s cassoulet dish.
Galette des rois.
NEW BAR MENU AT VAUCLUSE Halo Halo waffle.
BRUNCH AT GRISTMILL
AHMET KIRANBAY
Chef-restaurateur Michael White’s French restaurant now has a new bar menu available daily. In addition to new cocktails like Le Diplomate (Evan Williams bourbon, elderflower liqueur, and Lillet), the bar will offer snacks such as crab salad with blue crab, hearts of palm, apples, and cashews; the White Label burger with an aged beef blend patty, fontina cheese, tomato jam, and dijonnaise, served with fries; Black Pearl American Osetra caviar with crème fraîche and blinis; and Pâté de Canard with duck and green peppercorn terrine, served with grilled bread and whole grain mustard. Daily, 5 p.m.–6:30 p.m. Vaucluse 100 E. 63rd St. (between Park & Lexington avenues) VaucluseNYC.com
Tapsilog, fried rice with Filipino cured beef.
The weekend brunch now available at Gristmill in Park Slope, Brooklyn, focuses on pastries. All baked goods are made inhouse from freshly milled flours, including the everything bagel with cream cheese and pastrami-smoked fish; buttermilk biscuits with a sweet and spicy pork gravy, topped with a fried egg; sticky buns made with naturally fermented sourdough brioche, glazed with apple butter, burnt cinnamon, caramel, and brown sugar; and French toast made with triticale bread and filled with maple bourbon custard, served with wild blueberry agrodolce (Italian sweet and sour sauce). Saturdays & Sundays 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Gristmill 289 Fifth Ave. (between First & Second streets), Park Slope, Brooklyn GristmillBK.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
Ciders to Ring In the New Year
If your bubbles of choice on New Year’s Eve come from cider, Jennifer Lim of The Queens Kickshaw and Wassail recommends the Orchard Hill following:
Red Label
“Extra brut. Body and color are both light and prosecco-like.”
Eden Sparkling Dry
“Tannic, with a Champagne-like mouth feel and balanced acidity.”
SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK
Farnum Hill Extra Dry “Pale gold, bubbly, and radically dry.”
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.
New Orleans Dreamin’ COURTESY OF EL REY
This caffeine-free chicory latte from El Rey Coffee Bar & Luncheonette, inspired by New Orleans chicory coffee, may not conjure up warmer weather outside, but you may rest a bit cozier knowing that chicory root is full of antioxidants and is good for digestion.
4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226
sagaponacknyc.com
RECIPE EL REY’S CHICORY LATTE • • • • •
4 cups water 1 cup sugar 1 cup lightly packed chicory 8 ounces warm milk Sumac powder, for dusting
DIRECTIONS Simmer water, sugar, and chicory until reduced by half, to 2 cups of chicory syrup. Add 1 ounce chicory syrup to 8 ounces warm milk and top with sumac powder. Recipe courtesy of Mason Lindahl, chef at El Rey Coffee Bar & Luncheonette
D4
@EpochTaste
December 30, 2016–January 5, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC COURTESY OF ALLORA
COURTESY OF ALLORA
COURTESY OF ALLORA
Allora Brings Old School Vibe to Turtle Bay Tucked away inside The Bernic Hotel in Turtle Bay, new restaurant Allora features Italian classics in an old-school setting. Among the pasta courses, the Maccheroni Alla Mugnaia (Miller’s Wife Pasta) stands out. It consists of a single, looped strand of pasta, long enough to make a dish. Prepared with a ragù all’Abruzzese sauce (with tomato, lamb, beef, and pork), the pasta is topped with palottine, or mini veal meatballs. The dish is enough to serve two and comes on
a wooden platter, with scissors to cut the single strand. It will be available after New Year’s Day. The menu also includes a ravioli of the day, fresh homemade gnocchi, and Linguine Alla Vongole, with a red or white clam sauce. There is also a number of tableside preparations, including lamb chops and a flaming café brulot. Open daily for lunch and dinner, from noon to 11 p.m. Weekend brunch to come.
Sauce & Barrel Serves Pizza and Pasta in Financial District CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES
At Sauce & Barrel, chef Mike Paez (La Sirena, Eataly, Betony, and Altamarea Group) has created a menu based on Italian-American classics. A shiny, red Italforni “Bull” oven with three tiers, the first of its kind in the United States, churns out pizzas like the Picked Pepper, with soppressata and pickled shallots, and the Smoked Mozzarella, with smoked honey. Pastas include orecchiette with sausage ragu; tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce; and squid ink pasta with shrimp, squid, Calabrian chili, and bread crumbs. Beverage director Jack Zemke (Betony, The Modern) has created a cocktail program including offerings like the Basil Gimlet (gin, basil, lavender, and honey) and the Pineapple Non Loso (tequila, habanero, and pineapple). The 150-seat restaurant is spacious, with an L-shaped bar on the the first floor and a mezzanine level. Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner. Open Saturday for dinner. Closed on Sunday.
A gleaming-red Italforni “Bull” oven is the first of its kind at Sauce & Barrel.
Sauce & Barrel
97 Washington St. (at Rector Street), Financial District 212-480-6800 SauceAndBarrel.com
Globally Inspired Dishes at Tavo
agave leaves, to Lollipop Lamb Chops, grilled rack of lamb dipped in chocolate-habanero sauce, sprinkled with gold dust, and served with pistachio pesto and a corn cake make with broccoli and goat cheese. Open daily for dinner, with brunch on weekends.
Executive chef Julieta Ballesteros has teamed up with owner Francisco Decrescenzo to open Tavo in the West Village. The menu offers globally inspired dishes, from Peking Duck Carnitas for two, with braised duck marinated in a citrus-teriyaki sauce and served with
Tavo
It’s Never Too Cold for Ice Cream The latest ice cream shop in the Lower East Side, Soft Swerve features soft serve in unique Asian flavors like matcha, black sesame, and ube (purple yam). The black sesame ice cream is made with activated coconut charcoal and sesame paste from Yokkaichi, Japan, while the ube ice cream is made with real yams. Guests can choose to have them on a black chocolate or red cinnamon cone. There’s a plethora of toppings to choose from,
615 Hudson St. (between West 12th & Jane streets), West Village 917-675-6454 TavoNYC.com
including different breakfast cereals, mochi, coconut flakes, and syrups. You can also choose Soft Swerve’s special concoctions, named after New York streets, like the Division Street (black sesame soft serve with Reese’s puffs, mochi, and a chocolate drizzle) and the St. Marks Place (matcha soft serve, red bean paste, and mochi). Soft Swerve was conceived by Jason Liu and Michael Tsang, two childhood friends who grew up in Chinatown together. Open Monday to Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday to Sunday, from 11 a.m. to midnight.
Soft Swerve
85B Allen St. (at Broome Street), Lower East Side 646-288-2708 SoftSwerveNYC.com
Allora serves Italian classics.
Branzino. Zabaione.
Allora
At The Bernic Hotel 145 E. 47th St. (between Lexington & Third avenues), Turtle Bay 212-754-9800 AlloraNYC.com
Zucker’s Heads Uptown LIZ CLAYMAN
Bagel shop Zucker’s Bagels & Smoked Fish has opened its third Manhattan location on the Upper West Side. The hand-rolled and kettleboiled bagels can be topped with more than a dozen varieties of smoked and cured fish from Acme Smoked Fish, and other deli staples. All ingredients are GMO-free. The new outpost will carry new egg sandwiches, including The Delancey (egg, corned beef or pastrami, hash browns, sautéed onions, and Swiss cheese) and The Columbus (egg whites, avocado, turkey bacon, and double cheese). FlatZ bagels, with half the calories of regular bagels, are also available. For the holiday season, Zucker’s is serving latkes with toppings like chopped liver and porcinicrusted roast beef. Draft coffees from La Colombe—Nitro Draft Latte, Pure Black Coffee, and a combination of the two, Pure Black & Tan—are available. The shop is located in a landmark building with many original features. It offers delivery through the Upper West Side. Open daily, from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. The Zucker’s Traditional.
Zucker’s Bagels & Smoked Fish 273 Columbus Ave., Upper West Side 212-874-2800 ZuckersBagels.com
From Moscow to Bryant Park COURTESY OF COFFEEMANIA
Russian-concept Coffeemania, with 27 locations in Moscow, has opened an outpost in the Bryant Park area. On the beverage side, it offers some unique coffee drinks such as the Latte Halva, with a sauce of halva and sesame; Raf Coffee, which boasts “coffee with the taste and texture of melted ice cream”; and Bumble, a cold brew with caramel syrup and fresh orange juice. A number of teas, smoothies, wines, spirits, and cocktails are also available. The 105-seat, 5,000-square-foot restaurant has tapped chef Titus Wang (Annisa, Delicatessen, Morimoto) to create a seasonal menu that includes dishes such as Berkshire Pork Chop, with Asian pear chutney, bok choy kimchi, and sesame cilantro pesto, and Roasted Bone Marrow with miso apricot glaze, clam chimichurri, lardo, and grilled sourdough. Open daily for lunch and dinner, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Breakfast to follow.
Coffeemania
Coffeemania serves contemporary American cuisine.
1065 Avenue of the Americas (at 40th Street), Bryant Park 212-221-2510 CoffeeManiaNYC.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp & Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
D5
@EpochTaste
December 30, 2016–January 5, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ALIZA ELIAZAROV
SO FRESH! WE NOW DELIVER!
Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! 60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com
Loring Place’s grains salad with freekeh, warthog (a winter wheat variety), emmer (farro), smoked chili aioli, fall vegetables, and lemon.
New Year,
New Trends Trends continued from D1
Mushrooms are also getting infused into energy bars.
Green Fig makes use of a porcinibaharat spice cream in its mushroom soup.
Popped sorghum granola.
At David Burke Kitchen, roasted cauliflower is paired with harissa yogurt.
COURTESY OF DAVID BURKE KITCHEN
FELIX FURO/SHUTTERSTOCK
Berbere, which is common to Ethiopia, is a mix of about a dozen spices, including fenugreek, red chili peppers, allspice, garlic, cumin, turmeric, and nutmeg. Harissa is a hot chili pepper paste from North Africa made with roasted red peppers, hot chili peppers, garlic, oil, and spices such as cumin and coriander. Baharat is a Middle Eastern spice mix, consisting of black pepper, cumin, cardamom, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, and paprika, that is commonly used to season meats. Zhug is a fiery Yemeni hot sauce made with Thai bird chilies, parsley, cilantro, and spices.
COURTESY OF MCCORMICK
Ancient Grains As Americans have realized the importance of eating healthy foods, ancient grains have caught on as nutritious alternatives to refined grains like rice and wheat. This year, quinoa stole the limelight, but for the year ahead, Stensson sees amaranth as an “up and com-
@RATEDRUWAN
Flavors of the World The recent influx of Middle Eastern immigrants to Western countries will propel the flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean region to the forefront, said McCormick’s executive chef Kevan Vetter, who is part of the team that works on the company’s annual Flavor Forecast report. Every year, over 100 chefs, researchers, and culinary industry experts spend 12 to 14 months reviewing recipes, restaurant menus, food products, consumer patterns, and social media to predict flavor trends that will go mainstream in the near future. Some of McCormick’s accurate foretellings over the years, since as early as 2000, include now-commonplace items like chipotle, wasabi, sea salt, smoked paprika, coconut water, and Korean red pepper paste (gochujang). In its 2017 forecast, McCormick predicts that Middle Eastern seasonings like baharat and zhug will become popular in the coming years. Baharat is a mixture of black pepper, cumin, cardamom, cloves, coriander, nutmeg, and paprika, commonly used to season meats, while zhug is a fiery Yemeni hot sauce made with Thai bird chilies, parsley, cilantro, and spices. Meanwhile, in the restaurant world, chefs are starting to use more flavors from African cuisines, said Annika Stensson, director of research communications at the National Restaurant Association. The organization releases an annual report on trends in the restaurant industry, based on surveys of professional chefs who are members of the American Culinary Federation. “Spices like berbere, harissa, curries, and peri-peri, as well as various other iterations of mixes with spices common to many individual cuisines (cardamom, coriander, cloves, cinnamon, garlic, etc.) are increasingly popping up in restaurant kitchens,” said Stensson in an email interview. These once unfamiliar flavors are finally getting explored as consumers look for new, bold flavors to add to their lexicon.
ing” ingredient on restaurant menus. Amaranth is a gluten-free grain that was once cultivated by the Aztecs in Mexico, and is high in iron, calcium, and magnesium. At Whole Foods Market, consumers have been paying more attention to farro and teff, said Elly Truesdell, who is senior coordinator of local brands, product innovation, and development at the high-end grocery chain. “[Teff]’s got a really interesting flavor, it’s easy to use, and has amazing nutritional benefits,” said Truesdell. The grain, grown primarily in Ethiopia and Eritrea, is often ground into flour to make bread, such as injera, an Ethiopian flatbread. The grain is high in calcium and dietary fibers that promote colon health, according to the Whole Grains Council. Truesdell suggests using teff as a substitute for oats or porridge as well. McCormick foresees sorghum as a popular base for breakfast or grain bowls, with its “mildly nutty taste and hearty texture,” said Vetter in an email interview. According to the Whole Grains Council, sorghum is an African grain high in antioxidants and can help lower cholesterol. Vetter said it can also be popped to make granola. “It tastes great paired with plant-based milks, like almond or coconut, and warming spices such as cinnamon and ginger,” he added. Superfoods Other superfood ingredients are also winning over health-conscious eaters. “What we continue to find is that people like marrying health and convenience these days as much as possible,” Truesdell said. For example, tonics that people can drink on the go are popular, featuring maca root, turmeric, and medicinal mushrooms like reishi and chaga. Their benefits range from reducing inflammation to cleaning out toxins. Mushrooms are also getting infused into energy bars—both for the nutrients and for helping to counteract any unpleasant aftertastes from natural sweeteners, explained Truesdell. McCormick chef Vetter recommends adding turmeric into “smoothies, scrambled eggs, frittatas, salad dressing, or to coconut milk and vanilla to make a warm, comforting golden turmeric milk.” Whole Foods also noticed that consumers aren’t just turning to healthy greens; consumers are also interested in purple foods. They contain anthocyanins, which dietitians say possess antioxidant properties. Some popular violet-colored ingredients include açai berries, purple corn, purple cauliflower, purple asparagus, and purple sweet potatoes. Using Byproducts In the past year, chefs and restaurants have shown a desire to tackle the problem of food waste. Truesdell, who’s excited to see this trend continue, has seen some creative uses of leftovers. For example, the restaurant Blue Hill at Stone Barns uses leftover whey from local yogurt company White Moustache to make sauces, as a poaching liquid, and even as a brine for meats. “They lend acidity to whatever it is you’re cooking,” she said. Truesdell also helped develop other products that use byproducts. Sauce company Sir Kensington makes a vegan mayo with the water that’s left over after cooking chickpeas. Toast Ale, a brewery based in the United Kingdom, produces beer out of stale bread, and will be expanding soon in the United States. 2017 could be the year when more American households can pitch in to reduce food waste through their food choices. That would be a bright forecast indeed for the food world.
A Perfect Fusion of East & West
Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!
Shangri La 208 7th Ave.
(btw. 7th & 8th avenues)
(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge
Authentic Japanese GMO FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
2nd Location
Pure Peruvian Cuisine Ceviche, Our signature dish
Happy Hour Mon-Fri 4pm- 7pm Free Peruvian chicken wings after 2nd drink
Live Entertainment 7pm-10pm, every Friday
718-224-8505 • 39-32 Bell Blvd, Bayside, NY 11361 www.piurarestaurant.com
D6
@EpochTaste
December 30, 2016–January 5, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Learn to Love a Long, Slow Braise to Make Tough Meat Awesome By Sara Moulton
H
ow do you transform a tough, less expensive cut of meat into something tender and delicious? You braise it! Braising is a wonderful and basic cooking technique that uses a slow heat in a covered pot. It’s great for cuts such as chuck, flank, brisket, rump, and round. In fact, cooked properly, these cuts can be more delicious than more tender cuts. I’m using short ribs in this recipe, but the method can be used to wonderful effect on any other tough cut of meat. Short ribs can be butchered three ways: English, flanken, or boneless. In English style, the ribs are cut parallel to the bone, with one bone per cut. In flanken style— which originated with the Jews of Eastern Europe—the ribs are cut across the bone. With English style, you get relatively uniform chunks of beef. With flanken style, you get a sauce with more body and flavor because the cut bones enrich it. You also can get boneless, which we used in this recipe. They cook a little faster than ribs with bones, and you get more meat for your money (you’re not paying for the bone weight). We start by browning the ribs in a pan. During browning, the meat will give off juices that form tasty little brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Reconstituted with wine once the meat has finished browning, these bits end up enriching the sauce. I also brown the vegetables, which amps up their natural sweetness.
Braising is a wonderful and basic cooking technique that uses a slow heat in a covered pot.
This recipe requires two bottles of beer, though you also could use a full bottle of red wine. But whether beer or wine, please choose bottles for which you feel some real affection. It doesn’t have to be expensive, but it also shouldn’t be the dollar special. You won’t end up tasting the beer or wine, but you will be astonished by and grateful for the soulful taste of the ribs, which will boast an acidity and depth they’d otherwise lack. Combine the browned meat, vegetables, beer, and chicken broth in a Dutch oven, covered tightly. I place a piece of kitchen parchment right on top of the meat to make sure no liquid escapes. Then it is cooked low and slow. You’ll know you’re done when the tip of a knife slides into the meat with no resistance. If you became antsy and try to speed up the process by boiling the meat, you’ll end up with hockey pucks for dinner. Assuming you have the time, try to prepare this dish a day ahead, then allow it to cool off and chill overnight. It also freezes beautifully. Not only will the ribs taste better the next day, but by then the fat will have solidified at the top of the pan, allowing you to scoop it off with ease. Then you can warm up the contents and proceed with the recipe. Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.” From The Associated Press
Beer-braised short ribs.
Short ribs can be butchered three ways: English, flanken, or boneless.
RECIPE BEER-BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS
In a large Dutch oven over mediumhigh, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Use paper towels to pat the ribs dry, then season them on all sides with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium, add a quarter of the ribs to the pot and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer them to a large platter or bowl. Repeat with the remaining oil and short ribs, transferring them to the platter or bowl when finished.
Prep & Cooking Time: 4 hours (1 hour active) Servings: 8 • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided • 5 pounds boneless beef short ribs • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 2 cups thinly sliced yellow onions • 2 medium carrots, coarsely chopped • 1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic • 2 tablespoons tomato paste • 1 sprig fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried thyme) • 1 bay leaf • Two 12-ounce bottles beer • 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour • 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard • 1/2 cup water • 2 teaspoons lemon juice
Cook them low and slow.
Return the pot to the heat and add the onions and the carrots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes.
boil. Return the meat and vegetables to the pot and cover with a piece of kitchen parchment. Put the lid on the pot and set in the oven on the lower shelf and cook until the meat is very tender, 4 to 5 hours. Use tongs to transfer the ribs to a platter. Let them stand until cool enough to be handled. Meanwhile, strain liquid in the pan into a bowl. Discard the solids and return the liquid to the pot. Let stand for several minutes, then skim off any fat that floats to the surface (or use a fat separator). In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and water. Set the pot over medium-high heat and bring the cooking liquid to a boil. Add half of the flour mixture in a steady stream, whisking. Bring the sauce to a boil, check the consistency, and if you would like it thicker, whisk in more of the flour-water mixture. Simmer for 8 minutes. Whisk in the mustard and lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper.
DIRECTIONS
Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste, thyme, and bay leaf, then saute for 2 minutes. Transfer the vegetable mixture to the bowl with the ribs. Return the pot to the heat and add the beer. Bring to a boil and simmer until the beer is reduced by about three-quarters.
Add the meat to the pot along with any juices from the platter. Cook gently, just until heated through. To serve, arrange some rib meat on each plate and spoon some of the sauce over each portion.
Heat the oven to 325 F.
When the beer is reduced, add the chicken broth and bring to a
Recipe by Sara Moulton
NEAL PRITCHARD MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK
The Best Brussels Sprouts Recipe By Katie Workman
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I think this is (possibly) the best Brussels sprouts recipe I have ever made. They are roasted and then tossed while still warm with an assertive dressing that makes your mouth jump up and down with joy. And for those who don’t like Brussels sprouts (and in fact my family is divided), well, more for the rest of us. Jack and I were happy to be responsible for the leftovers. This is a great addition to a holiday spread. You can make the dressing ahead of time, and then just roast the Brussels sprouts before the meal, toss them with the vinaigrette, and serve them warm or even at room temperature. I’m not a fan of reheating Brussels sprouts and would prefer to just serve them at room temperature if they cool down. Don’t over-salt the Brussels sprouts because the anchovies add salt to the dressing. You can always add a pinch of salt to the final tossed salad if you want. Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” From The Associated Press
KATIE WORKMAN VIA AP
RECIPE WARM BRUSSELS SPROUTS SALAD WITH ANCHOVY SPROUTS SALAD WITH VINAIGRETTE ANCHOVY VINAIGRETTE Prep & Cooking Time: 45 minutes Servings: 6 to 8 • 2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved • Kosher salt • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice • 3 anchovies, rinsed • 1 clove garlic • 2 teaspoons grainy Dijon mustard • 2 scallions, white and green parts, timed
and cut into pieces • 2 tablespoons parsley leaves • Freshly ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS Heat oven to 400 F. Toss the Brussels sprouts with 1 tablespoon of the oil and spread them out on a rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes until the Brussels sprouts are fairly tender and browned in spots. Let cool slightly, on the baking sheet, for about 10 minutes. While the Brussels sprouts are cooking, make the dressing. In a food processor place the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, the lemon juice, anchovies, garlic, mustard, scallions, parsley, and pepper, and process until pureed. Drizzle the Brussels sprouts with about half of the dressing and toss to coat. Add more dressing if you like.
A great addition to a holiday spread.
Transfer the Brussels sprouts to a serving dish and serve warm, with the rest of the dressing on the side. Recipe by Katie Workman
D7
@EpochTaste
December 30, 2016–January 5, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com
The Secret to a Better Pasta? Bake It, Don’t Cook It
RECIPE BAKED PENNE WITH PROSCIUTTO AND FONTINA Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes (20 minutes active) Servings: 6
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
By Sara Moulton If there’s anything more comforting than boiled pasta in a sauce, it’s got to be baked pasta in a sauce. The baking adds a crispy crust that is such a delicious contrast to the tender goodness of the dish. The challenge is how to get the pasta to turn out just right. Most baked pasta recipes instruct you to boil the noodles until cooked halfway before baking them. This allows the pasta to finish cooking in the oven as it bathes in the sauce. But this method has challenges. If you boil the noodles more than halfway, they’ll be overcooked by the time you pull the finished dish out of the oven. I find it hard to get the precooking time right. And precooking the pasta, even halfway, takes work and dirties a large pot and colander. Then again, if you don’t precook the pasta and instead add it dry to the sauce for baking, it will take much longer to become tender in the oven, even as it absorbs all the liquid in the sauce. Dry pasta needs to hydrate. So what’s a home cook to do? Use my simple no-cook method of precooking the pasta. Just soak the pasta in warm salted water before adding it to the other ingredients and sliding the mixture into the oven. Presoaking is a way to begin hydrating the pasta and washing away some of its starch, even as the salt in the water pre-seasons the pasta. Yes, you’ll dirty a bowl, but given that that’s the same vessel in which you’ll combine all the dish’s ingredients, it’s the only bowl you’ll need. The soak requires 45 minutes, but it’s hands-off time, freeing you to prep the rest of the ingredients. Then it takes no time at all to assemble the dish and pop it into the oven.
• • • • • • • •
1 pound penne pasta Kosher salt Butter, for coating the baking pan 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 cup heavy cream 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 cup crushed tomatoes 1 to 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes, to taste (optional) • 1 1/2 ounces finely grated Parmesan cheese • 4 ounces coarsely grated fontina cheese • 4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, chopped
DIRECTIONS In a large bowl, combine the pasta with enough lukewarm, well-salted water to cover. Let stand for 45 minutes.
Dry pasta needs to hydrate.
Just 20 or so minutes later you can collect your reward: deeply flavored baked pasta, creamy on the bottom and crispy on top. Add a salad and some crusty bread and be happy.
Bake on the oven’s middle shelf until bubbly and browned, 20 to 22 minutes. Recipe by Sara Moulton
Pavlovas are a splendid choice for entertaining.
An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West
MELISSA D’ARABIAN VIA AP
From The Associated Press
Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking dish, pressing it down evenly.
From The Associated Press
By Melissa d’Arabian
Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.”
Drain the pasta and set aside. In the same bowl, combine all remaining ingredients, stirring well. Add the pasta, toss to combine, then season with a pinch of salt.
Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.”
A Less Sugary Take on Pavlova Pavlovas are dreamy. For the uninitiated, a pavlova (named after famed Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova) is essentially a meringue shell baked at low heat until the outside is barely golden crisp, but the inside remains soft and billowy, like a creamy marshmallow. The shell then is typically filled with whipped cream, custard, or fruit compote. And, as mentioned, the result is a dreamcome-true. Pavlovas are a splendid choice for entertaining, because contrary to what we might think of a delicate meringue, these guys are pretty hardy, and you can make them a day or two in advance, no problem. Just be sure to keep them in an airtight container so they don’t absorb ambient air moisture and lose their delightfully crisp texture, and to top just before serving. As you probably know, meringues are made primarily of two ingredients: egg whites and sugar. In this good cop/bad cop pairing, sugar is definitely the bad cop, while egg whites are considered downright health food by many folks who look like they know what they are talking about at the gym. (They aren’t wrong, by the way—one egg white has 5 grams of protein, at only 25 calories, and no fat.) The sugar is what gives the pavlovas their luscious interior. So I wondered: Just how low could I go on the sugar without ruining the texture and creating a weird protein puff that only my gym-friends would want to eat? The answer: quite low, surprisingly. A typical pavlova recipe might have a ratio of 1/4 cup of sugar per egg white. I found that I could cut the sugar in half with no noticeable impact on texture and taste. So I kept testing and reducing the sugar. And the very lowest that yielded a reasonable result was a ratio of 2 teaspoons of sugar per egg white, or one-eighth the typical amount of sugar. At that level of sugar, the pavlova becomes less flowy and more airy and crisp, almost styrofoam-y. Two of my kids actually preferred this version! Most of us felt like a little extra sugar was worth the nutritional profile impact, and so I’ll share that version—with 4 teaspoons of sugar per egg white, or 1/4 cup sugar to 3 egg whites as the recipe is written. Still a dessert victory, if you ask me.
Heat the oven to 450 F. Lightly butter a shallow baking dish (12-cup capacity with 2 to 2 1/2-inch sides).
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TANGY RASPBERRY PAVLOVA WITH BALSAMIC GLAZE Prep & Cooking Time: 90 minutes Servings: 8 • 3 egg whites • 1/4 cup sugar (or use as little as 2 tablespoons of sugar—the texture will be less lush) • 1/2 teaspoon white vinegar • 1 teaspoon corn starch • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • 1/4 teaspoon almond extract (optional) For the Topping • 1 cup light sour cream • 2 tablespoons maple syrup • 1 cup raspberries (or other fruit) • 1 to 2 tablespoons balsamic glaze (reduced balsamic vinegar), for drizzling • Fresh mint leaves, chopped, for garnish (optional)
DIRECTIONS Heat oven to 275 F. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat eggs on medium speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Add the sugar and continue to beat on mediumhigh speed until stiff peaks form. Add the vinegar, corn starch, and extracts, and beat on low until
well mixed. (You can use a hand mixer, but times may be a little longer.) Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Spoon the meringue into 8 even, round piles. Use the back of a tablespoon to spread the meringue into circles about 1/2-inch tall, and approximately 3-inches wide. Use the spoon to create a gentle depression in the center of the meringue. Bake for 20 minutes. Keeping the oven door closed, turn off the heat but leave the pavlovas in the oven for another hour. Remove the pavlovas from the oven and allow to cool completely. Stir the light sour cream and maple syrup together in a small bowl. Remove from the parchment paper gently. Place the pavlova on a plate and spoon 2 tablespoons of the cream into the center.
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
Top with berries and a drizzle of balsamic glaze, followed by a sprinkle of mint leaves, if desired. Cook’s Note: Pavlovas can be kept in an airtight container for up to 3 days. If they get soft from sitting out on the counter too long, you can crisp them up by heating in the oven at 275 F for 15 minutes and then cooling. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian
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D8
@EpochTaste
December 30, 2016–January 5, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Bonjour Chef In this series, columnist Sibylle Eschapasse interviews some of France’s top chefs, the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France.
with Chef Claude Godard By Sibylle Eschapasse
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine
Age: 51 Restaurant: Madison Bistro Years of experience with French cuisine:
35
Maître Cuisinier de France since:
2003
MELINDA MARTINEZ/CELEBRITY TASTE MAKERS
Ms. Eschapasse: Why did you choose to become a chef? Mr. Godard: I always loved to look at my father and grandparents cooking when I was a child. I was very attracted by food. Ms. Eschapasse: If a close friend were to describe your cooking in three words, what would they be? Mr. Godard: Generous, tasty, and traditional. Ms. Eschapasse: If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? Mr. Godard: A cheesemaker or pastry chef.
Chef Claude Godard had an early predilection for cooking. MELINDA MARTINEZ/CELEBRITY TASTE MAKERS
Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
Hometown: Joigny, France
COURTESY OF CLAUDE GODARD
Sibylle Eschapasse: What does it mean to you to be a Maître Cuisinier de France, a most envied title? Claude Godard: To be recognized by more experienced chefs than me. It is an honor.
Name: Claude Godard
Ms. Eschapasse: Who would you consider your greatest culinary influence? Mr. Godard: My father. Ms. Eschapasse: How would you define French cuisine? Mr. Godard: Exquisite, unique, and technically sophisticated. Ms. Eschapasse: Tell us about the recipe you chose. Mr. Godard: Poached egg meurette comes from the region where I was born. It represents the marriage of the food and the wine. It’s a perfect dinner. You can watch Godard demonstrate the full recipe on “Celebrity Taste Makers” on Saturday, Dec. 31, at 6 p.m on Pix11. Sibylle Eschapasse is from Paris and lives
in New York City. In addition to working at the United Nations, she contributes to various publications and is the host of “Sibylle’s Top French Chefs,” a series being aired on “Celebrity Taste Makers.” She may be reached at Sibylle.Eschapasse@gmail.com MELINDA MARTINEZ/CELEBRITY TASTE MAKERS
RECIPE POACHED EGGS ‘EN MEURETTE’ WITH PORCINI MUSHROOMS Servings: 4 • • • • • • • • • • •
4 slices white bread 1 garlic clove, halved 4 porcini mushrooms 4 fresh eggs 2 bottles good red wine 1 shallot 5 ounces butter 4 bay leaves 8 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bunch chives Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
DIRECTIONS Remove the crust from the slices of bread and cut each into a 4-inch disc. Toast the discs, then rub them with the cut sides of the garlic. Wash and pat dry the mushrooms, then dice them.
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To make the sauce, pour one bottle of wine into a saucepan with the sliced shallot, 2 bay leaves and 4 sprigs of thyme. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the liquid has reduced to one-fourth of its volume. Set aside. Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper. Over high heat, sauté the mushrooms with a
touch of butter until golden brown. Set aside. To cook the eggs, bring the second bottle of wine to a boil with the remaining bay leaves and thyme. Lower the heat to bring the liquid to a simmer. Break in the eggs and poach them until soft. At the same time, finish the red wine sauce. Simmer until it is reduced a bit more, then add the remaining butter. On a large plate, place one toasted disc in the middle and top it with an egg. Pour some sauce over the egg, arrange the sautéed mushrooms around the plate, and scatter chives on top. Repeat with remaining plates and serve.