ALL PHOTOS BY BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
D1 Oct. 28–Nov. 3, 2016
The Perfect Flan on D7
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Truffle Time ! Chef Joey Campanaro’s handmade pappardelle, topped with shavings of white truffle.
It’s the season to dig out and dig into these rare white treasures By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
T
hey are as elusive as diamonds, rare gems in the earth that require tedious, skillful searching to locate. When finally found, their bewitching aroma casts such a powerful spell, people spend huge sums to procure them. White truffles are some of the most prized ingredients in the world of fine dining. They can command prices of thousands of dollars per pound, comparable to expensive varieties of caviar.
See Truffles on D2
Each truffle has about 120 different aromas. And no two truffles smell the same.
The fragrance of white truffles is reminiscent of a pungent cheese—musky but earthy.
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October 28–November 3, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF URBANI TRUFFLES
COURTESY OF URBANI TRUFFLES
BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
Chef Joey Campanaro shaves some white truffle over pasta. Chicken with cheese fondue and white truffle. White truffles add a pungent, rich aroma to any dish. White truffles are the rare diamonds of the earth. COURTESY OF URBANI TRUFFLES
Truffle Time ! Truffles continued from D1 Technically, they are the fruits of fungus—not the fungus itself but the part that produces its spores. They grow underground, typically near the roots of trees in northern and central Italy, where the mild climate and humidity from surrounding waters create ideal growing conditions. Contributing to their coveted status is the fact that they only exist in the wild— compared to the less expensive black truffles, which can be cultivated. They’re also only available during the short window between late September and December. What makes them so beloved? “It’s the ultimate experience of the senses,” said chef Joey Campanaro, who runs several New York City restaurants, including The Little Owl, Market Table, and The Clam. “It’s the aroma on the taste buds.” Meanwhile, chef Jimmy Bradley of The Red Cat in Chelsea is enthralled by their seasonality and how they announce the arrival of autumn. “It’s a European expression of the American concept of the harvest,” he said. “And they’re more exciting than pumpkins.” The fragrance of white truffles is reminiscent of a pungent cheese—a musky scent, mixed with the raw freshness of dirt. Upon smelling it, your mouth salivates, as your tastebuds anticipate the umami. Each truffle has about 120 different aromas, according to Vittorio Giordano, vice president of Urbani, the world’s largest purveyor of truffles, based in Umbria, Italy. And no two truffles smell the same. Since the Romans first began consuming
It’s a European expression of the American concept of the harvest. And they’re more exciting than pumpkins. Jimmy Bradley, chef, The Red Cat
Do you know where your white truffles come from?
BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
these delicacies, the key to finding white truffles has been their powerful scent. Traditionally, truffle hunters employed female pigs, which are attracted to the pheromones secreted by the truffles. The problem, though, was that the pigs often ate the prized fungi. Nowadays, truffle hunters train dogs instead. Drawing from a wealth of knowledge passed down through the generations, hunters know which trees to look for and the best weather conditions for hunting. A Trusted Tradition Many chefs and restaurants get their white truffles from Urbani. Back when the company was founded in 1850, truffles were rarely exported to other parts of the world. Today, the company controls about 70 percent of the world’s truffle market. While Urbani labels all their products with the name of the fungi species, thus indicating the country of origin, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not require such labeling. When shopping for truffle products from other purveyors, customers may not be getting the information they need to make their purchase. “They [consumers] should have the right to know,” Giordano said. He hopes that the FDA can establish labeling rules in the future, just like in Italy—where labeling is required by law. Italian and French black truffles, for example, are a different species than Chinese black truffles, which results in significantly different prices for the two. “It’s like buying a ring made out of gold [versus] one made out of metal,” he said.
Tips for the Home Cook When it comes to selecting white truffles, Campanaro has a few criteria. Truffles that grow on chestnut trees are the most pungent, he says, so he looks for a reddish tint on the surface that indicates their provenance. Campanaro also looks for a uniform shape so that there’s maximum surface area when shaving the truffle for a dish. Those from Alba or Italy’s Piedmont region in general are his favorite. Giordano suggests that people go by the aromas that appeal to them, since each truffle has its own particular scent—and each person also senses different odors. Bradley tests for firmness. “The less firm, the older it is,” he said. White truffles have a short shelf life; they should be consumed as soon as possible. But if you must store them, Giordano warns against the common practice of placing them in rice. “Truffles are 90 percent water. Rice will absorb the moisture,” he said. Instead, Campanaro suggests to wrap them in a paper towel and storing them in an airtight container. Because truffles have such a powerful allure all their own, add them to dishes that let them shine. Scrambled eggs with butter, a homemade pasta or risotto, or even mashed potatoes will do the trick. Simply use a toothbrush to brush off the dirt from the truffle, then shave thin slices over the dish using a truffle slicer. For the ultimate meal, pair with a Barolo or Barbaresco wine from Piedmont, the same region where white truffles reign. BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
Campanaro demonstrates how to pick out white truffles and make pasta.
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October 28–November 3, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Sniffing Out Truffles A ROU N D T OW N By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
The Dish: Owner and executive chef Simone Falco said, “We want New Yorkers to enjoy the truffles in an approachable and flexible way.” The restaurant offers a variety of truffle dishes, from sunny side up eggs with asparagus ($47), gluten-free gnocchi with fontina cheese ($58), Spaghetto alla Chitarra (spaghetti cut like guitar strings, $57), New York strip with fingerling potatoes and mushrooms ($65), and zabaione (whipped egg yolk custard, $40).
The Dish: Chef Joey Campanaro keeps it at its simplest with a dish of Risotto Bianco ($18, plus $50 for truffle supplement). All that this risotto gets on top is a raw egg and between 15 to 20 shavings of white truffle. Note: The truffle supplement can be added to any dish on the menu.
Risotto Bianco.
NY Strip.
Where: B&B Winepub, 25 W. Houston St., SoHo COURTESY OF B&B WINEPUB
The Dish: Among the dishes that chef Josh Capon has dreamed up for this white truffle season, we’ve got our eyes on the White Truffle Burger, with robiola cheese, white truffle aioli, and a side of tater tots ($68).
White Truffle Burger.
Where: Toloache’s three locations: 251 W. 50th St. (Hell’s Kitchen), 166 E. 82nd St. (Upper East Side), and 205 Thompson St. (Greenwich Village) COURTESY OF TOLOACHE
The Dish: Go beyond the usual Italian entrees with chef Julian Medina’s truffle quesadilla, with Mexican cheeses and chipotle salsa ($20). You might not have expected it, but according to Medina, truffles pair well with spicy food.
WE’RE MORE THAN MEATS THE PLATE MIDTOWN 551 Fifth Avenue 212.972.3315
WORLD TRADE CENTER 136 Washington Street 212.608.0171
HACKENSACK One Riverside Square 201.487.1303
GREAT NECK 777 Northern Boulevard 516.498.2950
WHITE PLAINS 9 Maple Avenue 914.683.6101
MORTONS.COM
Truffle Quesadilla.
Where: Sant Ambroeus, 1000 Madison Ave., Upper East Side
Tagliatelle with white truffle.
COURTESY OF SANT AMBROEUS
The Dish: A white truffle menu is offered for lunch, brunch, and dinner, with dishes like burrata and asparagus ($90), beef carpaccio ($115), tagliatelle ($80 for half portion, $124 for full portion), seared Dover sole ($169), and even gelato ($68), if you like—all getting the white truffle treatment.
HAUTE PRIVATE EVENTS There are private events in Manhattan, and then there are private events at Cava Nerai. Head downstairs to our new romantic stone wine cellar— born from the idea to provide you with the finest setting possible for private events. Whether you’re having a business meeting with partners, entertaining those special clients, or throwing the perfect baby shower, Cava Nerai has the customizable space you need—and an excellent wine selection sure to make the occasion memorable.
55 E 55th St. New York, NY 10022 Nerai.NYC COU R
TESY
OF S
212.759.5554 ANT
AM B
RO E
US
AUGUST GOULET
Where: The Little Owl, 90 Bedford St., West Village COURTESY OF ROSSOPOMODORO
Where: Rossopomodoro, 118 Greenwich Ave., West Village
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October 28–November 3, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
HALLOWEEN PARTIES YULIYA DERBISHEVA VLG SHUTTERSTOCK
stuff to eat and drink around nyc
HESTER STREET FAIR’S CLOSING FESTIVAL
Saturday, Oct. 29 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Seward Park (at Hester & Essex streets) HesterStreetFair.com
DIA DE LOS MUERTOS SPECIAL AT FONDA
Wednesday, Nov. 2 7:30 p.m. Fonda Chelsea 189 Ninth Ave. (between 21st & 22nd streets) FondaRestaurant.com
W New York Times Square 1567 Broadway (at 47th Street) Eventbrite.com (search “Escape from Litchfield”) BroadwayAtTheW.com
ANALOGUE Dress up for a Jazz Age-themed Halloween party at cocktail bar Analogue. The party will feature live jazz music and classic cocktails, including the rum-spiked Punch Romaine, Hemingway Daiquiri, Old Fashioned, and Sazerac. Email events@AnalogueNYC.com to reserve a table and get the password to gain entry to the speakeasy. No cover charge; drinks are $15. Monday, Oct. 31 8 p.m.–midnight Analogue 19 W. Eighth St. (between Fifth & Sixth streets) AnalogueNYC.com
INDUSTRY KITCHEN
COURTESY OF INDUSTRY KITCHEN
To celebrate the Mexican “Day of the Dead,” Fonda will be preparing a four-course dinner inspired by the region of Tlaxcala, Mexico’s smallest state. Dishes include Gorditas de Queso con Chiles Pasilla, potato-stuffed pastries topped with artisanal cotija cheeses and sweet-pickled pasilla peppers; and Pipian de Tizatlan, chicken cooked in pipian (a sauce made with pumpkin seeds, peanuts, and sesame seeds) and served with salsa verde and rice cooked with chicken offal and serrano peppers. $70 per person.
The W Hotel at Times Square is kicking off Halloween festivities with an “Orange Is the New Black” party on Oct. 28. Actress Taryn Manning of the Netflix series will guest DJ. Attendees are encouraged to dress for a mugshot and the costume competition. Events over the weekend include a masquerade ball on Oct. 29 and a costume party hosted by stars from the Broadway shows “Hamilton,” “Memphis,” “Book of Mormon,” “Wicked,” and more on Oct. 31.
MICHAEL TULIPAN
Hester Street Fair, featuring design, art, fashion, and food, will be concluding its 2016 season with a festival highlighting fall harvest goods. Vendors will include The Awkward Scone, offering baked goods like activated charcoal and pumpkin seed shortbread paired with spiced sorrel jam; Don Don NYC, serving Japanese-style sweet potato and mozzarella croquettes; and Enlightenment Wines, pouring meads made from wild yeast, foraged herbs, and local fruit. Visitors may also enjoy a beer garden and live musical entertainment.
MICHAEL TULIPAN
W NEW YORK TIMES SQUARE
The waterfront restaurant Industry Kitchen is hosting a pirate ball featuring an open bar and hors d’oeuvres. DJ Grand Atrium will spin. $99 per person. Saturday, Oct. 29 9 p.m.–3 a.m. Industry Kitchen 70 South St. (at Maiden Lane) Eventbrite.com (search “Halloween Industry Kitchen”)
Openings around NYC
Bob’s Steak & Chop House COURTESY OF BOB’S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE
A new steakhouse is opening on Nov. 1 at the Omni Berkshire Place in Midtown. Traditional American steakhouse Bob’s Steak & Chop House will occupy 4,400 square feet, with 210 seats and a spacious 40-seat bar and lounge area. The original Bob’s opened in Dallas, Texas, in 1993, with 13 locations of the restaurant now in Texas, Arizona, California, Tennessee, and Florida. The kitchen will be led by executive sous chef Stratos Georgedakis, formerly of Quality Meats. The steakhouse offers prime cuts of steaks and chops, seafood, salads, and sides—including a signature glazed carrot dish. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
21 E. 52nd St. (between Fifth & Madison avenues) Midtown 212-754-5080 Bobs-SteakAndChop.com/newyork
Filet and Lobster.
Dickson’s Fine Brines The owner of Chelsea Market’s Dickson Farmstead Meats, Jacob Dickson, has opened a pickling concept store. Also located in Chelsea Market, Dickson’s Fine Brines was inspired by New York’s pickle history. “When I was a young boy, my family made pilgrimages to the Lower East Side to Guss’ Pickles for ‘the pickle run’ at least three times a year,” said Dickson in a press release. “We’d come with orders for neighbors and friends who couldn’t make the trip and end up spending hundreds of dollars on pickles each trip. With Dickson’s Fine Brines, we hope to reinvent the Guss’ pickle model and experience for the 21st century.” The store carries classic cucumber pickles, pickle chips, and spears; hot and sweet peppers; onions; green tomatoes; cauliflower; and additional seasonal vegetables. Condiments
COURTESY OF DICKSON’S FINE BRINES
from various culinary traditions, such as sauerkraut, pickled chilies, and fermented hot sauce, are also available. Open Monday through Sunday. from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
At Chelsea Market, inside the 15th Street Arcade 75 Ninth Ave. (between 15th & 16th streets) Chelsea DicksonsFarmstand.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
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October 28–November 3, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com PAUL WAGTOUICZ
PAUL WAGTOUICZ
PRESIDENTIAL PALATES MENU AT DELMONICO’S Since opening in 1837, Delmonico’s has served a long line of U.S. presidents, beginning with Thomas Jefferson. To celebrate this election season, executive chef Billy Oliva has teamed up with former White House chef John Moeller for a special a la carte menu of presidential greatest hits, from President Martin van Buren’s favorite Roast Duck and Sweet Potato Bisque, made with smoked duck breast, duck dumplings, and root vegetables; to President Richard Nixon’s Goulash with wagyu beef cheek, pearl onion, smoked paprika, and mustard spaetzle; and first lady Laura Bush’s favorite dessert, Warm Flourless Chocolate Torte with raspberry sauce and almond tuile. Tuesday, Nov. 1–Tuesday, Nov. 8 Delmonico’s Restaurant 56 Beaver St. (at South William Street) DelmonicosRestaurant.com
The Turkey à la King dish, with herbed pappardelle, chanterelle mushrooms, sweet peas, charred peppers, Tio Pepe cream sauce, was served to President John F. Kennedy.
DINNER AND COCKTAIL MENU AT THE WILD SON
Delmonico’s Baked Alaska.
BURGER BAR POP-UP AT AMERICAN CUT
NEW MENUS AT METROGRAPH
The health-conscious Wild Son is finally launching dinner service. Dishes include Raw Walnut Paté with cashew cheese, crudités, and seven-grain croutons; Tuscan Kale, charred with coconut oil and vegan breadcrumbs; smoked and roasted whole trout with celery slaw and griddle bread; and mussels with house-cured guanciale and serrano peppers in smoked trout broth. A low-alcohol cocktail menu provides drink pairings, such as the Smoked and Flipped, with hickory-smoked tawny port, lemon, chipotle agave, angostura bitters, and egg; and the Osiris, with Amontillado sherry, East India Solera sherry, Cardamaro, and cinnamon bitters.
Marc Forgione’s American Cut steakhouse will now serve a weekday lineup of off-the-menu burgers during its lunch service. Choose from the fried chicken on an “everything biscuit”; the American Cut Burger with an eight-ounce patty (brisket, short rib, and dry-aged rib eye), topped with bourbon onions and beer cheese; and the five-ounce Competition Burger with lettuce, tomatoes, Jarlsberg cheese, and secret sauce. For dessert, you can enjoy a milk chocolate malt milkshake with housemade candy honeycomb and vanilla whipped cream.
Metrograph Commissary, the restaurant inside a movie theater complex on the Lower East Side, is launching a daytime service. Breakfast dishes include a six-minute egg sandwich with feta and mayo pistou, and scrambled eggs with marscapone and wild mushrooms. Lunch includes soups like buckwheat chicken noodle with pecorino, egg, kale, and chili; and sandwiches like turkey with caciocavallo cheese, olives, pickled cherry peppers, and broccoli rabe. The writer’s menu features dishes designed to be eaten with one hand, so patrons can type away at their next creative project at the same time. Items include mixed apples with almond butter, honeycomb, bee pollen, and brie; Caesar potato chips with anchovies and pecorino; and roasted Tallegio cheese with porcini mushroom, thyme, saba grape sauce, and toast. Available all day.
The Wild Son 53 Little West 12th St. (between Washington Street & Tenth Avenue) TheWildSonNYC.com
Through Saturday, Dec. 31 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. American Cut Tribeca 363 Greenwich St. (between Franklin & Harrison streets) AmericanCutSteakhouse.com
Metrograph Commissary 7 Ludlow St. (between Hester & Canal streets) Metrograph.com
NEW MENUS AT BUSTAN
SAHADEV POUDEL
MOMO CRAWL
Under newly appointed executive chef Rafael Hasid, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute, modern Israeli restaurant Bustan has revamped its menu. A newly added “mazettim” section features shareable plates like charred octopus, heirloom cauliflower, and housemade hummus made with roasted sesame and tahini imported from Nazareth, Israel. A new brunch menu, available all week, includes dishes like mallawach (Yemenite fried dough) served with crushed tomato and “zhug” hot sauce; potato latkes served with smoked salmon, eggs, and labneh (thick yogurt); and burekas, phyllo dough pastries filled with feta cheese and olives, baked in a wood-fired oven.
Spend a day enjoying all the different Tibetan momos (dumplings) that Jackson Heights has to offer. For $5, you can purchase a map of over 20 Tibetan restaurants in the neighborhood that offer momos, and then set off for each eatery to try them for $1. In the evening, vote for your favorite and crown the winner.
Bustan 487 Amsterdam Ave. (between 83rd & 84th streets) BustanNYC.com
COURTESY OF GERBER GROUP
Sunday, Nov. 6 2 p.m.–5 p.m. Diversity Plaza (at 74th Street & 37th Road), Queens MomoCrawl.com
Patrons at last year’s Momo Crawl.
COURTESY OF THE ROOF
FALL MENU AT VICEROY CENTRAL PARK During the fall season, the rooftop bar’s new covered terrace will allow guests to enjoy a view of Central Park while staying warm indoors. The bar also has a new seasonal food and drinks menu, with options like artichoke hummus with pita and market vegetables; the Huckleberry Whiskey Sour, with Knob Creek Bourbon, huckleberries, and lemon juice; and a frozen Mexican hot chocolate, with Casamigos Reposado Tequila, orange liqueur, cinnamon hot cocoa mix, hazelnut milk, and a pinch of cayenne pepper.
Deliciously Sponsored
The view from The Roof at Viceroy Central Park.
The Roof at Viceroy Central Park New York 124 W. 57th St. (between Sixth & Seventh avenues) 29th Floor TheRoofNY.com
Mexican hot chocolate.
May Wah Vegetarian Market Celebrates 21st Anniversary
D
id you know the world of vegan food includes vegan chicken legs, whole fish, stewed mutton, and red spot prawns? May Wah Vegetarian Market, one of the city’s largest purveyors of frozen vegan products, makes these and more— ideal for health- and social-conscious diners who want to prepare an easy, simple meal at home. May Wah’s creative use of soybeans, wheat glutens, and spices to mimic the flavorful tastes and unique textures in meat products has earned it many loyal customers over the years. The store will be celebrating its 21st anniversary with a sale: 10 percent on all in-store purchases—and 15 percent for current members.
All purchases will come with goodies, such as a surprise gift, product samples, and coupons. For hearty fall meals, May Wah’s selection of lightly seasoned vegan beef chunks, diced chicken, and meatballs are ideal ingredients for soups and stews. And for the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday, May Wah will host its annual “Save a Turkey” event, where patrons can sample the store’s wide selection of animal-free treats, from Asian-influenced vegan citrus spare ribs and ginger chicken, to breakfast-appropriate meat substitutes like vegan bacon strips, burger patties, and hot dogs. The event takes place on Saturday, Nov. 19, and Sunday, Nov. 20, from noon to 6 p.m. COURTESY OF MAY WAH
May Wah Vegetarian Market
213 Hester St. (between Centre & Baxter streets) MayWahNYC.com
Authentic Japanese GMO FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
Vegan lobster sushi.
2nd Location
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October 28–November 3, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY EVAN SUNG
Fried Eggplant With Honey and Rosemary (Berenjenas Fritas), featured in “Cúrate: Authentic Spanish Food from an American Kitchen.”
Egg Flan (Flan de Huevo), featured in “Cúrate.”
Katie Button Takes You to Spain With
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
T
here are chefs whose creativity springs from spontaneity. You know the type: a dash of this, a dash of that, no measuring, all eyeballing. And then there are chefs like Katie Button who, with a background in chemical and biochemical engineering, is both meticulous and assiduous about making a plan and getting the smallest details just right. Button, whose capacity to absorb knowledge and to learn quickly has been praised by chefs including Albert Adrìa, didn’t go to culinary school. She cut her teeth in kitchens at El Bulli and at her own family-run restaurant, the renowned tapas bar Cúrate, in Asheville, North Carolina. Now, five years after opening Cúrate, Button has released her first cookbook, “Cúrate: Authentic Spanish Food from an American Kitchen” (Flatiron Books). In developing “Cúrate,” Button looked for recipes that were “traditional, classic, tasted delicious, but also didn’t have so many steps that it would be so overwhelming,” she said.
Indeed, she recounts in the cookbook how the extravagant amount of time spent on certain dishes was a point of pride for some Spanish cooks. The recipes range from easy meals that can be whipped up in 10 minutes, such as the classic tomato and tuna salad, to more complicated “projects,” as Button calls them. “Sometimes I want something that’s going to challenge me,” she added. For those familiar with her restaurant, Button emphasizes that the cookbook isn’t a collection of tapas recipes only. “In Spain, they don’t cook tapas at home, you don’t make eight things. You [have tapas] in a bar or restaurant, that’s what they’re for. At home you make one or two dishes, to be enjoyed by friends or family.” There are classics like paella, tortilla with eggs and potatoes, shrimp with garlic, and then some lesser-known specialties of different regions. For example, Button features Ajo Blanco, a chilled almond and garlic soup from the south of Spain, to which she adds her own twist: cut green grapes. “That combination of a cold almond garlic soup with the sweetness of cut grapes is a match made in heaven.
“Cúrate: Authentic Spanish Food from an American Kitchen” by Katie Button with Genevieve Ko, Flatiron Books, 2016, $35.
I like to add crab in it. It’s absolutely to die for,” she said. And then there’s another traditional recipe, from Málaga: the Fried Eggplant with Honey and Rosemary. The sweetsavory golden disks are typically served with cane syrup, but Button likes to serve them with honey for depth of flavor. “In Asheville, we have a lot of great honey,” she said. Although some people might associate Spanish cuisine with beaches and sunshine, there is no lack of recipes for a more fallinspired dinner party. Button recommends the recipes for Braised Oxtail and the chickpea and collard greens stew—a dish that surprised her with its similarities to the American South’s version. For dessert, try the classic flan. “The ratio of egg to cream ended up being perfect. It’s super-tender and delicious,” Button said. Or there is also the Tarta de Santiago, an almond cake that Button added her own touch to by drizzling brandy and syrup over it. “I think it makes it super-moist and delicious, so why not? … It’s something that warms you up, that you can have for dessert and have the next day for breakfast on a chilly morning.”
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October 28–November 3, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
RECIPE ROASTED BEET SALAD WITH CANDIED ORANGE, MANCHEGO, AND MARCONA ALMONDS (ENSALADA DE REMOLACHA) Servings: 8 This salad may not be traditional, but it celebrates the autumnal beets using Spanish ingredients. Manchego cheese and salty roasted Marcona almonds go so well with earthy beets. Oranges start rolling into stores in the fall, but aren’t quite at the height of sweetness yet, so I candy them to match the orange vinaigrette. Most people don’t think they’ll hit a winning combination of red wine with salad, but a Rioja or Mencia tastes wonderful with this dish.
SALAD • 3 medium beets (1 pound), preferably 1 each red, gold, Chioggia • 3 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil, separated • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1 orange, peel and pith removed, segments cut out • 4 segments Candied Oranges, cut into 1/2-inch pieces • 2 ounces aged Manchego cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped roasted and
salted Marcona almonds • 1 (5-ounce) package mixed greens
to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
ORANGE VINAIGRETTE • 1 orange • 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice • 1/2 teaspoon minced shallot • 1/2 teaspoon honey • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt • 2 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Candied Oranges
DIRECTIONS To make the salad, preheat the oven to 400 F. Peel and cut the beets into 1-inch chunks, keeping the colors separate on different large sheets of foil. Toss each pile of beets with 1 teaspoon oil and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Wrap each mound of beets in the foil to create packets. Place the packets on a halfsheet pan and roast until the beets are tender, 40 to 50 minutes. Unwrap and cool to room temperature. While the beets roast, make the vinaigrette: Zest one-quarter of the orange into a large bowl, then squeeze in 1 1/2 tablespoons orange juice. Whisk in the lemon juice, shallot, honey, and salt. Slowly pour in the oil in a steady stream while whisking vigorously. Add the cooled beets, orange segments, candied orange, cheese, almonds, and greens to the bowl with the vinaigrette. Gently toss with your hands until well-mixed. Season
Amount Makes: 1 1/2 cups Sevilla is famous for its oranges, which are tart and ideal for preserves. This recipe is my nod to those oranges, but can be used with any variety. These easy candied oranges use the whole fruit, not just the peel. That saves you the hassle of scraping off the pith and gives you the benefit of luscious fruit in each bite with the chewy rind. They keep well in the fridge and are delicious with both savory and sweet dishes. They’re good with ice cream and can find a place on a cheese plate, too, along with crackers and nuts.
• • • • •
3 oranges, preferrably unwaxed organic 1 cup sugar 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 2 whole cloves 1 cinnamon stick
DIRECTIONS Trim off just enough of the tops and bottoms of the oranges to expose the segments. Following the divisions between the segments, cut the oranges from top to bottom into wedges, leaving the rind attached. Put the orange wedges in a medium saucepan
Servings: 4 Traditionally, this Andalusian dish is served with cane syrup, but I think honey has a more complex flavor. Throughout Spain, there’s a range of honey as varied as the landscape. Any type accents the salty crisp shell of these eggplant rounds. My personal touch here is the rosemary leaves, which bridge the savory bite of eggplant with the sweetness of honey. The salty-sweet crunch of this dish makes it the ideal appetizer to any summer or early fall meal.
• • • • • • •
2 to 3 cups whole milk 1 medium eggplant 2 to 3 cups vegetable oil 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup pure honey 1 rosemary sprig Kosher salt
DIRECTIONS Pour the milk into a medium bowl. Trim the top and bottom of the eggplant, then peel. Cut the eggplant into 3/8-inch-thick slices. As you slice the eggplant, put the slices into the bowl with the milk. You should get about 12 slices, but it’s
Strain the oranges through a sieve, return to the same saucepan, and add the sugar, vinegar, cloves, cinnamon, and 3 tablespoons water. Bring to a simmer and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the rinds are translucent, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool at room temperature. Transfer to an airtight jar or container and refrigerate for up to 2 months.
SO FRESH!
RECIPE FRIED EGGPLANT WITH HONEY AND ROSEMARY (BERENJENAS FRITAS)
and add enough cold water to cover; bring to a simmer. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour.
fine to have more or less. The milk should cover the eggplant. If it doesn’t, add more. Weigh down the eggplant with a heavy plate that fits snugly over the bowl to keep the eggplant submerged. Cover with plastic wrap and soak overnight in the refrigerator.
WE NOW DELIVER!
Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla!
When ready to cook, fill a large skillet with the vegetable oil. It should be about 1/2 inch deep; if not, add more. Heat the oil over medium heat until an instant-read thermometer registers 350 F. A pinch of flour should sizzle when it hits the oil. Spread the flour on a plate. Drain the eggplant. Dredge a slice in the flour and tap off the excess. Carefully drop into the hot oil. Repeat with more eggplant slices, being careful to not crowd the pan. Fry, turning once, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. The eggplant shouldn’t get too dark; reduce the heat if needed. Transfer to a wire rack to drain and immediately sprinkle with salt and drizzle with honey. Repeat with the remaining eggplant and flour.
Authentic & Delicious
60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com
A Perfect Fusion of East & West Chef
Katie Button. Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!
Shangri La
Arrange the eggplant on a serving plate. Top each piece with 2 to 3 rosemary leaves. Serve immediately.
208 7th Ave.
(btw. 7th & 8th avenues)
(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
RECIPE EGG FLAN (FLAN DE HUEVO) Servings: 8 to 12 Flan is the classic Spanish dessert found all over the country. This recipe is unadulterated because I love the pure, simple flavor of eggs with milk and sugar. I add just a bit of lemon peel to give the custard more complexity and a bright citrus note.
• 2 1/2 cups sugar, divided • 3 cups whole milk • 2 strips lemon zest, removed with a vege table peeler • 1/8 teaspoon salt • 6 large eggs • 2 large egg yolks
DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place a 9- by 5- by 4-inch loaf pan inside a 9- by 13-inch baking dish or pan. Bring a large kettle or pot of water to a boil. Stir 1 cup sugar and 2 tablespoons water in a medium saucepan over medium heat un til well-combined. Cook, without stirring but brushing and sugar crystals off the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush, until deep amber in color. Swirl the pan occasionally to caramelize evenly. Immediately pour into the loaf pan and tilt the pan to evenly coat the bottom and a few inches up the sides.
Bring the milk, lemon zest, salt, and 3/4 cup sugar to a simmer in a large saucepan. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and yolks with the remaining 3/4 cup sugar in a large bowl. Continue whisking while adding the hot milk mixture in a slow, steady stream. Strain through a finemesh sieve into a 2-quart liquid measuring cup or bowl with a spout. Skim any foam on the surface. Pour into the caramellined pan. The mixture will come all the way to the top. Very carefully place the dish in the oven, then carefully pour the boiling water into the dish so that it comes halfway up the sides of the loaf pan. Bake until just set, but still slightly wobbly in the center, about 1 hour and 5 minutes. Carefully remove the flan from the water and cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes. Refrigerate uncovered until cold and set, at least 8 hours or up to 3 days.
at el Pote The ratio of egg to cream ended up being perfect. It’s super tender and delicious. Katie Button
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
To unmold, run a sharp knife around the edges. Center a serving plate on top of the pan and carefully and quickly flip the pan and plate together. Lift off the pan and let the caramel run all over the top. Recipes excerpted from the book “Cúrate” by Katie Button with Genevieve Ko. Copyright © 2016 by Katie Button with Genevieve Ko. Reprinted with permission from Flatiron Books. All rights reserved. Photography by Evan Sung.
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
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October 28–November 3, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com MELISSA D’ARABIAN VIA AP
A Cod Recipe With Some Tricks Becomes a Richer, Meatier Dish Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
By Melissa d’Arabian
I
think we all know that eating fish several times a week is a good call, both for our hearts and our brains. In the summertime, it’s easy. I love tossing a piece of fish seasoned with just a little salt and pepper on the grill, giving it a bit of char and a sprinkle of bright lemon, and serving it next to a lightly dressed coleslaw or a chopped grilled veggie salad. In summer, I like not feeling full. But winter? I crave something richer and meatier. I want food that fills my belly with warmth and coats my tongue with luscious, deep flavors. Basically, I want to eat a fatty venison stew for several months a year. Is that so wrong? Well, I can’t eat like a bear before hibernation every day from December to March. It wouldn’t meet my health goals, and let’s face it: I don’t have that kind of braising time available to me on a casual Tuesday night. A simple, quick sautéed fish recipe comes to the rescue! It’s a classic sauté plus pan sauce method that is more blueprint than recipe. Sauté the fish and remove from the pan, add in some veggies and aromatics, and cook until tender. Deglaze the pan with broth, wine, or other liquid, and then add finishing touches, such
RECIPE
as whisking in a pat of butter or adding chopped fresh herbs. This recipe for cod in wine sauce has a few tricks up its sleeve to satisfy my winter palate. I use meaty portabello mushrooms as the veggie, which makes this dish using delicate cod more filling. And for the sauce, I use beef broth and red wine, surprising ingredients for a white fish dish. But, get excited, because they work. For minimal extra calories, this cod dish goes from summer-light to winter-comfort with these small swaps. Oh, and yes, I added a smidgen of butter at the end to make the sauce glossy, but feel free to skip if you don’t want the extra fat. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press
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Prep & Cooking Time: 10 minutes Servings: 4 Four 5-ounce fillets of cod, rockfish, or other sturdy white fish 2 teaspoons flour, divided 1 tablespoon olive oil, divided 1 shallot, minced 8 ounces baby bella mushrooms, sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2/3 cup beef stock 1/3 cup red wine (regular or sweetened, such as Marsala or Madeira) 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon unsalted butter Chopped parsley, for garnish Lemon wedges, for garnish Salt and pepper, to taste
DIRECTIONS Pat the fish dry with a paper towel and season it with salt and pepper. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of flour on the fish, using a silicon brush to coat the fish very lightly with the flour. Heat half the oil over medium high heat in a large nonstick skillet. Cook the fish until golden brown on both sides and cooked through, about 4 minutes per side, flipping the fish only once to retain the nice crust. Place the fish on a warmed platter and set aside.
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Add the remaining oil, shallot, and mushrooms to the skillet and sauté until mushrooms begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and remaining teaspoon of flour, and stir for a minute. Then add the stock and wine to deglaze the pan, and bring to a boil for a minute or two, until sauce starts to thicken. Turn off the heat. Add in the lemon juice and whisk in the butter to make the sauce glossy. Top with parsley and a lemon wedge for garnish. Top the fish with the sauce, or serve the sauce on the side to spoon over the fish to taste. Tip: Serve the fish on a bed of baby spinach, spaghetti squash, quinoa, or your favorite mild grain base to soak up the tasty sauce. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian
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Beef broth and red wine with white fish—a surprising combination that works.
COD WITH RED WINE PAN SAUCE • • • • • • • • • • • • •
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