RESTAURANT NEWS & REVIEWS
RESTAURANT NEWS & REVIEWS restaurant Tonkotsu alongside legendary Bloomberg food critic Richard Vines, an Israeli tasting menu from one of Tel Aviv’s hottest chefs, a fusion of art and food that will see diners viewing Vincent van Gogh’s ‘Two Crabs’ before feasting on crabs, and a wild autumn flavours menu from up and coming Irish chef Robin Gill, fresh fromstages at NOMA and Extabarri.
QUINCE
Quince is the debut restaurant of renowned and multi-talented chef Silvena Rowe. Located within the Mayfair Hotel off Berkeley Street, the restaurant promises a soulful, sensual and spirited experience. And, it doesn’t disappoint. The menu features recipes handed down from grandmother to daughter over generations drawn on her Bulgarian/Turkish heritage. The restaurant is my favourite kind of dining experience, that of sharing-plates. Whether on a date for two or a gathering with numerous friends, nothing is more fun and interactive than everyone sharing from mini-platters and enjoying the dining experience together as they comment on each dish and choose their favourites. Combining the best of traditional Ottoman banquets and modern Middle Eastern street fayre – adding a healthy dose of spices, fruits and fresh flower petals, results in an away from-the-norm experience that yields rich flavours and textures.
Royal China
Queensway is where it all started for the Royal China chain, currently tallying at six restaurants. Although there are now a surfeit of contenders vying for London's King of the Dim Sum title, this branch is still the preferred choice of the locals and beyond who flock here on a Sunday morning to sample its multitudinous dumpling selection. But, a restaurant of this size cannot survive on one busy sitting a week, so how does it fare the rest of the time? Pretty good if the regular flow of culturally diverse diners, befitting this no-man's land location is anything to go by. On the night we visited, the clientèle was made up of locals, tourists and a large group celebrating an event which made them seemingly oblivious to our existence as they spilled over onto our table uninvited, eventually edging us out of the restaurant following a mammoth flash photography session covering all combinations of their party's members. Nice. To begin, we shared the Imperial Vegetarian Hors H'oeurvres, which was too much for two people to have adequate stomach space remaining for main courses. The dish consisted of Spicy Bean Curd, which tasted like it had fallen into a crater of something unpleasant and MSG-like, rendering it pretty much inedible; the Pancake Rolls (AKA Spring Rolls) were bereft without the much needed sweet chili dipping sauce provided; 28
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the Seaweed was decent, but it was the Deep Fried Aubergine that succeeded in distinguishing Royal China from being just another local high street Chinese restaurant with identikit menus. Tiring of food from the land, my guest ventured to the sea for her additional starter of Deep Fried Stuffed Crab Claw, which could have done with a tad more of a flavour injection. For mains, we kept it pescetarian and ordered Steamed Black Cod in Ginger, and Sauteed Prawn with Cashew Nuts, accompanied by Fried noodles with Beansprouts and Pak Choi, all of which were huge portions we struggled to even eat half of. The steamed cod provided a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous miso variant and was fresh and delicately flavoured. The seafood plate was well-balanced between the texture of the prawns and crunch of the cashews. Royal China probably isn't the destination dining experience it once was, but if you're in the area and have a hankering for an old fashioned Chinese meal or a Dim Sum extravaganza, you'll be well catered for here. (By Shelley Rubenstein) 13 Queensway, Bayswater, London W2 T: 020 7221 2535 www.royalchinagroup.biz
Silvena is a larger-than-life presence, spending time with all the customers to explain her vision while offering advice on dish selection. This personal touch extends to her team which are all very affable and welcoming. A twist on the traditional Turkish staple borek – cigar-shaped filo tubes – of wafer-thin pastry filled with spinach and slow-cooked lamb shank were mouth-watering. A maincourse of spice-coated lamb cutlets was – as per the waiter’s recommendation – sublime, but two pieces was just not enough. As was a signature rice pilaf with blueberries, pistachios and lemon balm. (by Azzy Asghar) Quince at The Mayfair Hotel, Stratton Street, Mayfair W1 T: 020 7915 3892 www.quincelondon.com
Tickets £25 per person, including dinner and a cocktail on arrival. The National Café, Trafalgar Square, London WC2 T: 020 7747 5942 www.thenationalcafe.com
CALABRESE LAUNCHES BAROQUE
Gerry Calabrese has quickly built up a reputation as one of the modern greats in the London bar and club scene. Now, with the creation of Baroque at the Playboy Casino, Gerry is finally bringing to fruition his dream of merging the luxury and glamour of a bygone era with a seriously modern twist.
PEYTON’S PLACE
Oliver Peyton’s new project - Friday night’s at Peyton and Byrne restaurant The National Café - will see the restaurant throw open its doors each week to anyone in the hospitality, creative industries or foodies with something interesting to say. Oliver said: “The National Gallery is an amazing space and I want to use it to create a convivial experience that unites the best elements of the London dining scene: spectacular food, wine and cocktails, interesting conversation, culture, together with passionate and talented people. I see this as the foodie equivalent of an open-mic night: you never know what might happen and that’s part of the fun.” Confirmed line-up includes: Japanese street food with Emma Reynolds from hit Soho
A selection of globally renowned luxury brands are hosting a must-see series of expert lunches at Mayfair based Novikov Restaurant & Bar. These informal - but informative events will include: Henry Herbert Tailors (27th September) This new kid on the Savile Row block offers the finest handmade suits and shirts to customers in London and across the UK. Sotheby’s (11th October) One one of the world's largest auctioneers of fine and decorative art, jewellery and collectibles. With 90 locations in 40 countries, each year it holds 250 auctions in over 70 categories. The Novikov lunch will be held during the Frieze Art Festival and will be hosted by an in-house expert on Italian art. Armani/Casa (15th November) Armani/Casa was launched in 2000 as a separate division, though seamlessly linked to the other sections of the Armani Group. The company provides a platform for Giorgio Armani to set out his vision of the living space. The collection ranges from furniture to accessories and from fabrics to ornaments and lighting. The Novikov lunch will tie in with the launch of Armani/Casa’s latest collection.
Having undergone an extensive refurbishment, the venue has been transformed into a sumptuous space oozing luxury. The interior has been designed by CID Interiors and features sophisticated and extravagant decor; displaying golds, ruby reds, magenta pinks, heavy drapes, Louis XIV chairs and antique mirrors. Baroque is finished to the highest possible standard with an undeniably theatrical, flamboyant atmosphere. 14 Old Park Lane, Mayfair W1 T: 020 7491 8586 www.playboyclublondon.com
NOVIKOV HOSTS EXPERT LUNCHES
Held in the private dining room of the Italian Restaurant, there will be a maximum of 20 places at each event. Tickets are £50 and include a three course lunch and the expert talk.
SHOW STOPPING SUSHI
South Kensington is now home to London’s hottest new sushi venue, Sushi des Artistes, an eclectic new cabaret inspired JapaneseEuropean fusion restaurant
50 Berkeley Street, London, W1 www.novikovrestaurant .co.uk
London is the first sister restaurant to the hugely popular flagship site in Marbella. Expect to find delicacies such as ‘Nothing At All’ grain fed fresh Chateaubriand sashimi with fresh wasabi, ‘Shall We Dance’ three kinds of foie gras nigiri and ‘Club Celebrity’ a touch of fresh black truffle and crispy soft shell crab tempura. As enticing as the food and concocted with similar gastronomic gusto is the cocktail list, focusing on Champagne cocktails. The wine list is as also as diversified as the menu, offering something to compliment even the most unusual of courses. 85 Sloane Avenue, SW3 T: 020 3583 3797 www.sushidesartistes.com WWW.EPICUREANLIFE.CO.UK
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