COLOMBIA RISING With vibrant cities and enchanting islands, Colombia is engaging, energetic, and safe. by ROBIN CHERRY
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Above: Pre-Colombian decorative gold figure Clockwise from top: Historic La Candelaria neighborhood, Bogota; Colonial style church bell tower in Simon Bolivar square, Bogota; Botero Plaza, Medellin
32 ENSEMBLE VACATIONS WINTER 2019
ogota is over one-and-a-half miles above sea level, making it the world’s fourth highest capital after La Paz, Quito, and Thimphu. The top of Monserrat, the mountain that dominates Bogota’s skyline, can be reached by cable car, funicular, or on foot. When I prepared to climb the 1,500 steps – an altitude gain that brought me to almost two miles above sea level, I expressed my concern to the concierge. He asked how many feet I lived above sea level. “About twelve,” I said. “Oh,” he replied, “altitude might be an issue.” I didn’t even mention my asthma. The climb was rigorous and my ego took a bit of a bruising as toddlers and grandmothers darted by me, but the view from the top gives you a sense of Bogota’s immensity – it’s home to over eight million people. Wander the colonial Candelaria neighborhood, home to Bogota’s star attraction: the Gold Museum, which houses the world’s largest collection
of gold items including many preColombian artifacts. Lively and verdant Medellin is an easy (and inexpensive) one-hour flight away. Sadly, many still associate the city with the drug cartel, but those days are long gone. Medellin’s heart, Botero Plaza, is dotted with 23 whimsical statues by native son Fernando Botero. The Museum of Antioquia, a stunning Art Deco building, houses works by Botero as well as donations from his personal collection. To understand this fascinating city, I recommend a walking tour and a Metrocable ride up to Arvi Park, a nature preserve. Medellin’s metro system, which includes trains, cable cars, and escalators, is largely credited with the city’s revival as it made it possible for people living in the far reaches of the city (Medellin is home to over 2.5 million people) to travel affordably to their jobs.