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their source of income overnight,” says Michele Insley, executive director of Wellfleet SPAT (Shellfish Promotion and Tasting Inc.), “We immediately realized that we had to help, so we developed a three-part Wellfleet Shellfish Harvesters Relief Program.” The projects included a community food share system, in which SPAT purchased shellfish from harvesters, and through established distribution channels donated it to food pantries. SPAT also allocated funds to help with basic living expenses and built upon a low-interest loan program that had been started in 2015. “Wellfleet has a long tradition of shellfishing, with what I believe to be the best oyster product in the world,” says Insley. “Shellfishing is critical to not only our local economy, but to the state’s as well.” Insley cites an impressive statistic, echoed by Civetta: in 2019 the town of Wellfleet was number one in Massachusetts for shellfish landing value (of all species and from both wild harvesting and aquaculture) to the tune of $7.7 million. That is just one of the reasons why the town actively bolsters sustainable shellfishing. “Over the past few years we have purposefully and thoughtfully been increasing our propagation program,” says Civetta. “We buy field plant oyster and quahog seeds from hatcheries and maintain our nursery bed to grow out predator resistant-sized juvenile shellfish to broadcast them to areas of the harbor where they can finish growing.” The shellfish department also has set up a revolving fund in which 75 percent of all revenues from permit sales and aquaculture grant licensees goes into nursery efforts, and has managed a seed donation program where local shellfish farmers can gift “hat seed,” (oyster seed collected from the wild) toward the wild fishery. The town has even invested in their own spat-collecting devices to use in the harbor for attracting wildly spawned larvae. Every one of these women who interact in some way with the wild shellfish of Wellfleet feels lucky that her town is blessed with this unique natural phenomenon.
Where to Find Wellfleet Oysters Even though the world-famous Wellfleet Oyster Festival will be online this year, there are still are many opportunities for tasting both wild-harvested and farmed Wellfleet oysters (and other shellfish):
BILLINGSGATE SHELLFISH Billingsgate Shellfish offers free home delivery of oysters and clams from Brewster to Provincetown. $30 minimum order. Cash or Venmo payment. To order, call or text, 774-722-1440. billingsgateshellfish.com
HOLBROOK OYSTER Holbrook Oyster organizes free home delivery of oysters, clams, and scallops from Provincetown to Harwich. The company also offers pickup at 4380 State Highway in Eastham on select days, and they will arrange meet-ups for deliveries in Orleans for shellfish lovers who are further away. Check their website for specific days and times and to order, call or text 508-237-6929. $20 minimum order. Cash or PayPal payment. If your kitchen isn’t outfitted for shucking, Holbrook Oyster sells custom knives as well. holbrookoyster.com
MAC’S KITCHEN A variety of super-fresh fish and shellfish, housesmoked seafood, and patés are available at Mac’s Kitchen. Curbside pick-up. Open seasonally until 6 p.m. To order, call 508-255-6900. macsseafood.com
WELLFLEET SHELLFISH COMPANY Do you know someone who is homesick for the coast? Wellfleet Shellfish Company will ship Wellfleet oysters and locally harvested clams, scallops, and lobsters to anywhere in the U.S. To order, visit wellfleetshell.com or call 508-255-5300.
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