Eats+Drinks
Wake Me Up Before You GO GO How big is too big? Jen Dixon bellies up to find out. F R ED LOPE Z
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banana flapjack as round as a pizza. A tower of chicken and waffles nearly a foot high. A Bloody Mary filling enough to be a meal. No, I wasn’t dreaming. Hash House A Go Go is basically foodie heaven on Earth. Did I know that ahead of time? Not really. You wouldn’t expect paradise to come with a huge tractor in the lobby and farm signs on the wall. And yet there’s something comforting in the vibe, with its quirky blend of contemporary and rustic elements. What I also didn’t know was that I should have packed an extra stomach. I should point out that I can eat. I can eat big portions. I can eat fast. And I can eat spicy. So after glancing at the menu, I chose to rely on my server
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for suggestions. He recommended Andy’s Sage Fried Chicken Benedict and Andy’s World Famous Sage Fried Chicken & Waffles. So I did what any real food lover would do—I ordered both. When Andy’s Sage Fried Chicken Benedict arrived at the table, I second-guessed my judgment. It’s a monstrous-sized dish of layered awesomeness. We’re talking Grand Canyon on a plate. Served open-faced, you’ve got mashed potatoes, a split biscuit, fresh spinach and tomatoes, bacon, sage fried chicken,
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and scrambled eggs with a blanket of cheese and Chipotle cream sauce on top, held perilously together with a steak knife and a rosemary sprig. It’s a challenge to eat because of its sheer size, but the combination of flavors transported this comfort food fanatic into a state of euphoric bliss. I was equally impressed with the Eiffel-Towersized chicken & waffles. Two sage fried chicken breasts piled high on
top of a hickory smoked bacon waffle tower with hot syrup reduction and fried leeks, the dish was undeniably decadent. Still, there was no finishing these two plates. I cried ‘uncle’ and asked for takeout boxes after just a few bites. And yet, delightfully, my family snacked on the leftovers for several more days.