Introducing No.1 Botanicals. The UK’s only range of drinks containing nothing but natural spring water with pure botanical extracts, authenticated by the scientists of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Ten extraordinary herbs, carefully chosen for their delicate, aromatic flavours. Refreshing and different, our wonderful drinks contain no sugar or additives. And we use no plastics. You can of course find us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.
Available from no1botanicals.com
December 2018
PERFECT PRESENTS WHERE TO BUY UNIQUE GIFTS FOR ART LOVERS, FOODIES AND GARDENERS
CHEF’S ADVICE Sally Clarke’s guide to cooking roast goose for a delicious traditional feast
CHRISTMAS SPLENDOUR JEWEL-LIKE INTERIORS IN LONDON, SOMERSET AND OXFORDSHIRE
. ! 1 ; รซm@ร ร # # .3/ ยกmZย ย @Zmร @ยกd m@ร ร ย ยกย ร ย ยก รซย ย ร m @ยกd รญmย ย ยฆรซ ย ยฆย d รซย ร ย dย @ย ยฆยกdร ยป Zย @ยกmย ยปZยฆย
26
C ON T E N T S
ON THE COVER Studio Indigo founder Mike Fisher’s drawing room at Ven House in Somerset (pages 82–91), photographed by Michael Sinclair
12 FROM THE EDITOR
INSIDER 17 SHOPPING Charlie Porter presents an array of elegant metal wall sconces 25 NOTEBOOK Gabby Deeming shows us what has caught her eye this month 31 WISE BUYS Anouska Cave selects throws and blankets for under £100 33 NEWS AND VIEWS The 10 best places to find thoughtful and inspiring presents; and Christmas craft courses
39 OUTSIDE INTERESTS Clare Foster focuses on conifers; and where to see holly this winter
63 DESIGN IDEAS Five tastemakers name the interiors products they would like to receive as presents
42 OUT AND ABOUT Laura Houldsworth’s best buys; a Christmas cooking event for readers; and The List
69 RITA NOTES Rita Konig prepares to host Christmas for the first time – and hopes the builders will have left before her family arrives
51 ART SCENE The untold story behind a dinner service by the Bloomsbury Group; exhibitions to see; and gifts for art lovers 55 BOOKS Literary offerings to buy as presents for interiors enthusiasts, craft connoisseurs, garden lovers and more
DE C OR AT I NG 59 SWATCH Ruth Sleightholme crafts tree decorations from braids and trimmings
70 PROFILE Jennifer Goulding visits the Lancashire factory of the fine linens company Peter Reed
LIFESTYLE 73 CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH Chelsea Textiles founder Mona Perlhagen and her daughter, Jenny, have turned an eighteenth-century house into their design centre and a family home. By Liz Elliot 컄
VOLUME 73 앫 NUMBER 12
114 A Scandinavian-inspired scheme for a dining room by Gabby Deeming and Ruth Sleightholme
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 3
CONTENTS CONTINUED
139 EDIT: INTERIORS, GARDENS, STORIES 82 STATELY CELEBRATIONS Studio Indigo founder Mike Fisher thinks nothing of entertaining 50 people at Ven, his Georgian house in Somerset. By Christopher Stocks 92 MASTER OF INVENTION John McCall used an unusual method to conceive an understated and eclectic look for this stone cottage in Pembrokeshire. By David Nicholls 98 LINES OF VISION This distinctive Mayfair flat by Steven Gambrel is featured in his latest book. By Mieke ten Have 106 A GLASS ACT The couple behind antiques emporium Guinevere on London’s King’s Road has created a striking contemporary house nearby. By Elfreda Pownall 112 THE KNOWLEDGE Inspired by the houses in this issue, Leanne Walstow gives directions on how to achieve similar style 114 NORDIC NOËL Gabby Deeming and Ruth Sleightholme create Scandinavian-inspired schemes for Christmas 120 MYTHS AND MONSTERS Bomarzo, a woodland garden north of Rome, is filled with arresting statues carved for an eccentric sixteenth-century duke. By Clare Foster 124 CUTTING EDGE Concluding her series on trees, Clare Foster considers ways of pruning to create ornamental shapes 128 BLURRING THE BOUNDARIES Painterly plantings blend with the landscape in a Chilterns garden. By Annie Gatti
F O O D & T R AV E L 133 THE ROAST OF CHRISTMAS PAST Chef Sally Clarke creates a traditional feast based around a roasted goose 140 TASTE NOTES News, reviews and tips for food lovers 142 CHATEAU CHIC House & Garden Top 100 Interior Designer Douglas Mackie takes a scenic drive in the Loire valley 145 INSIDE TRACK Pamela Goodman recommends where to stay, eat and walk in Megève, the smart French ski resort 147 SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS In the Austrian Alps, Teresa Levonian Cole attends a music festival dedicated to Schubert
EV E RY I S SU E 132 SUBSCRIPTIONS How to subscribe in the UK and US 149 STOCKISTS 164 SELF PORTRAIT The gallerist Sarah Myerscough paints a picture of her life, work and inspirations 첸
T h i s m o n t h’ s contributors
ANDERS GRAMER Photographer
Anders Gramer takes a practical approach to his own house: ‘I’m more likely to be finding storage solutions than decorating.’ Yet his passion is ‘creating beautiful images of interiors’. Anders can sometimes be found working on art projects, attending a meditation group and playing with his two-year-old son, Mattias. He is also part of Creative CoOp, which helps up-and-coming designers produce images that magazines would want to use. For this issue, Anders photographed ‘All the trimmings’ (from page 59).
What are your plans for this Christmas? ‘I’ll be in Sweden with my family. We have a big gathering on December 25 with smorgasbord and snaps, then a walk to church.’
STEVEN GAMBREL Interior designer
‘I was studying architecture at the University of Virginia when I became intrigued by historic projects in which interiors were considered as architecture,’ says Steven Gambrel. ‘Interior design seemed like the ideal career in which to create those kinds of environments.’ Steven now runs his studio SR Gambrel in New York. He favours a restful palette of ‘greys and grey blues’ (as seen in the flat that he designed on pages 98–105). But when it comes to transforming a space, he says that introducing ‘largescale objects and furniture with lean lines’ is key. At Christmas, he takes a minimalist approach: ‘I tend to decorate with greenery and like to create an atmosphere with candles and music.’
What has been your favourite project so far? ‘A townhouse in Manhattan – we designed every detail using reined materials and vintage pieces.’
ANNIE G AT T I WORDS: LEANNE WALSTOW. PHOTOGRAPHS: PONTUS ORRE (GRAMER); ERIC PIASECKI (GAMBREL)
Writer
‘I never thought about writing about gardens until I had to stand in for the gardens and food editor at The Times,’ says Annie Gatti. ‘I discovered that gardens are such a rich subject and that the people involved are so generous with their time and their advice.’ For this issue, Annie visited a painterly garden designed by Jane Brockbank in the Chilterns (from page 128). Annie favours a wilder style: ‘I love Pam Lewis’s wildlife garden, Sticky Wicket, and Tania and James Compton’s Spilsbury Farm.’ At Christmas, Annie takes inspiration from nature, using greenery to make ‘a woodland scene on a mantel with model creatures hidden inside’.
Who has inspired your work and taste? ‘As writers, I admire Richard Mabey and Dan Pearson, and as garden designers, Jinny Blom and Tom Stuart-Smith’ 첸
®
charnwood Exceptional British made wood stoves 01983 537780 • www.charnwood.com
VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S 1JU (TEL: 020-7499 9080)
H AT TA B Y N G EDITOR ART DIRECTOR Jenny Lister
DEPUTY EDITOR David Nicholls
MANAGING EDITOR/CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Caroline Bullough
CREATIVE DIRECTOR (INTERIORS) Gabby Deeming
PA TO THE EDITOR/EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Leanne Walstow ARTS EDITOR/DEPUTY FEATURES EDITOR Emily Tobin FEATURES WRITER Elizabeth Metcalfe DEPUTY DECORATION EDITOR Ruth Sleightholme DECORATION STYLIST Charlie Porter DECORATION INTERN Victoria Boards EDITOR-AT-LARGE Liz Elliot GARDEN EDITOR Clare Foster TRAVEL EDITOR Pamela Goodman FOOD EDITOR Blanche Vaughan DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Bethan Hyatt ACTING DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Sue Gilkes SUB-EDITOR Sophie Devlin DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Joshua Monaghan ART EDITOR Eva Farrington PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Owen Gale CONSULTANT EDITOR Susan Crewe CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Lavinia Bolton, Virginia Fraser, Matilda Goad, Fiona Golfar, Rita Konig, Nonie Niesewand, Elizabeth Rees-Jones, Aude De La Conté (France) ONLINE EDITOR Emily Senior ONLINE SENIOR FEATURES EDITOR Alice Riley-Smith DIGITAL FEATURES WRITER Virginia Clark DIGITAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Malcolm Attwells DIGITAL OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Helen Placito DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER Katharine Horsburgh SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES syndication@condenast.co.uk
B E S P O K E F LO O R I N G , F U R N I T U R E A N D STO N E WO R K T H E F R A N K L I N L O N D O N - S TA R H O T E L S C O L L E Z I O N E
+44 (0)1423 400 100 | L A P I C I D A . C O M
Copyright © 2018. House & Garden is published monthly by The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Colour origination by williamsleatag. Printed in the UK by Wyndeham Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. The title ‘House & Garden’ is registered at the US Patent Oice and in Great Britain as a trademark. All merchandise prices are approximate. The Mail Order Protection Scheme does not cover items featured editorially. SUBSCRIPTIONS The subscription rate to HOUSE & GARDEN is £58.80 for one year (12 issues) in the UK. Overseas airmail per year: €89 to the EU, £80 to the rest of Europe and £99 to the rest of the world. The US annual subscription price is $89. Air freight and mailing in the USA by agent named Air Business, c/o Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Periodicals postage paid at Jamaica NY 11431. Customer enquiries, change of address and orders payable to HOUSE & GARDEN, Subscriptions Department, Lathkill Street, Market Harborough, Leics LE16 9EF. Subscriptions: call 0844848 5202 (Monday to Friday, 8am to 9.30pm; Saturday, 10am to 4pm) or manage your subscription online, 24 hours a day, by visiting www.magazineboutique.co.uk/youraccount. In US, call 1-888-7379456 (toll free). US Postmaster: Send address changes to House & Garden, Air Business, c/o Worldnet Shipping Inc., 156-15, 146th Avenue, 2nd Floor, Jamaica, NY 11434, USA. Subscription records are maintained at The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Air Business Ltd is acting as our mailing agent. POST NOTE All editorial enquiries and submissions to HOUSE & GARDEN that require replies must be accompanied by stamped, addressed envelopes. House & Garden is a member of the Independent Press Standards Organisation (which regulates the UK’s magazine and newspaper industry). We abide by the Editors’ Code of Practice (www.ipso.co.uk/ editors-code-of-practice) and are committed to upholding the highest standards of journalism. If you think that we have not met those standards and want to make a complaint, please see our Editorial Complaints Policy on the Contact Us page of our website or contact us at complaints@condenast. co.uk or by post to Complaints, Editorial Business Department, The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. If we are unable to resolve your complaint, or if you would like more information about IPSO or the Editors’ Code, contact IPSO on 0300-123 2220 or visit www.ipso.co.uk. | The paper used for this publication is based on renewable wood ibre. The wood these ibres are derived from is sourced from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources. The producing mills are EMAS registered and operate according to the highest environmental and health and safety standards. This magazine is fully recyclable – please log on to www.recyclenow.com for your local recycling options for paper and board. HOUSE & GARDEN IS PUBLISHED BY THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD
FURNI TURE
|
FA BRICS
|
MIRRORS
261 Fulham Road, London SW3 6HY
020 7352 5594
|
L I GH TS
|
ACC ESSORI ES
www.beaumontandfletcher.com
Calypso dining chairs with Wallis embroidery on Capri silk velvet - Aquamarine
VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S 1JU (TEL: 020-7499 9080)
E M M A R E D M AY N E PUBLISHING DIRECTOR PA TO THE PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Charlotte Bailey ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Sophie Fairclough ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER EUROPE Christopher Daunt ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Lorna Clansey-Gramer ADVERTISING MANAGERS Georgina Penney, Marina Connolly DIGITAL SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER India Barclay SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Nichole Mika ACCOUNT MANAGERS Olivia McHugh, Olivia Capaldi ADVERTISING INTERN Freya Hill HEAD OF SPECIAL PROJECTS Melinda Chandler ART DIRECTOR Joan Hecktermann ART EDITORS Richard Sanapo, Rebecca Gordon-Watkins SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Arta Ghanbari PROMOTIONS AND PROJECT MANAGER Phoebe Wood REGIONAL OFFICE – SALES DIRECTOR Karen Allgood ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Heather Mitchell (020-7152 3279) HEAD OF THE PARIS OFFICE Helena Kawalec (00-33-1-4411 7880; helena.kawalec@condenast-europe.com) US OFFICE Nichole Mika (00-44-20-7152 3838; nichole.mika@condenast.co.uk) MIDDLE AND FAR EAST, ASIA PACIFIC Peter Jeffery (00-852-3910 6388; peterjeffery@asianimedia.com) INDIAN OFFICE Rachna Gulati (00-91-11-2373 0869; rachna.gulati@mediascope.in) GROUP PROPERTY DIRECTOR Fiona Forsyth EXECUTIVE EDITOR Laura Houldsworth EDITOR, THE LIST Charlotte Richmond EVENTS AND SALES COORDINATOR, THE LIST Natalie Loveless CLASSIFIED DIRECTOR Shelagh Crofts SENIOR CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Lucy Hrynkiewicz-Sudnik CLASSIFIED SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE Ellice Everett CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVES Georgia Littlefair, Amelia Andrew MARKETING DIRECTOR Jean Faulkner DEPUTY MARKETING AND RESEARCH DIRECTOR Gary Read ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Susie Brown SENIOR DATA MANAGER Tim Westcott SENIOR MARKETING EXECUTIVE Ella Simpson MARKETING AND RESEARCH EXECUTIVE Layla Faruque CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Richard Kingerlee NEWSSTAND MARKETING EXECUTIVE Olivia Streatfield SUBSCRIPTION DIRECTOR Patrick Foilleret CREATIVE DESIGN MANAGER Anthea Denning DIRECT MARKETING MANAGERS Lucy Rogers-Coltman, Brittany Mills DATABASE INSIGHT AND MARKETING MANAGER Alan Paterson ASSISTANT PROMOTIONS AND MARKETING MANAGER Claudia Long COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR Emily Hallie DEPUTY PUBLICITY DIRECTOR Harriet Robertson ACTING DEPUTY PUBLICITY DIRECTOR Emma Kelleher SOCIAL MEDIA AND PUBLICITY EXECUTIVE Sophie McKeesick PR MANAGER Sophie Mitchell PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sarah Jenson COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION MANAGER Xenia Dilnot SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Dawn Crosby PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Lucy Zini COMMERCIAL, PAPER & DISPLAY PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Martin MacMillan
- Award winning orangeries & Garden rooms -
A
Call for our new brochure or book a home design consultation
01278 764444 davidsalisbury.com
HR DIRECTOR Hazel McIntyre HEAD OF FINANCE Daisy Tam CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Sabine Vandenbroucke CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER Simon Gresham Jones
M A N AG I N G D I R E C T O R A L B E R T R E A D CHAIRMAN NICHOLAS COLERIDGE DIRECTORS Nicholas Coleridge, Shelagh Crofts, Edward Enninful, Jean Faulkner, Simon Gresham Jones, Dylan Jones, Albert Read, Sabine Vandenbroucke
100% LINEN FA BRIC CURTAINS BED & TABLE LINEN
VOGUE HOUSE, HANOVER SQUARE, LONDON W1S 1JU (TEL: 020-7499 9080)
C O N D É N A S T I N T E R N AT I O N A L CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE J O N AT H A N N E W H O U S E P R E S I D E N T WO L F G A N G B L AU T H E C O N D É N A S T I N T E R N AT I O N A L G R O U P OF BRANDS INCLUDE S UK Vogue, House & Garden, Brides, Tatler, The World of Interiors, GQ, Vanity Fair, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, Condé Nast Johansens, GQ Style, Love, Wired, Condé Nast College of Fashion & Design, Ars Technica FRANCE Vogue, Vogue Hommes, AD, Glamour, Vogue Collections, GQ, AD Collector, Vanity Fair ITALY Vogue, Glamour, AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vanity Fair, Wired, La Cucina Italiana, Lisa GERMANY Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Wired SPAIN Vogue, GQ, Vogue Novias, Vogue Niños, Condé Nast Traveler, Vogue Colecciones, Vogue Belleza, Glamour, AD, Vanity Fair JAPAN Vogue, GQ, Vogue Girl, Wired, Vogue Wedding TAIWAN Vogue, GQ, Interculture MEXICO AND LATIN AMERICA Vogue Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico, AD Mexico, GQ Mexico and Latin America INDIA Vogue, GQ, Condé Nast Traveller, AD
PUBLISHED UNDER JOINT VENTURE BRAZIL Vogue, Casa Vogue, GQ, Glamour RUSSIA Vogue, GQ, AD, Glamour, GQ Style, Tatler, Glamour Style Book
PUBLISHED UNDER LICENCE OR C O P Y R I G H T C O O P E R AT I O N AUSTRALIA Vogue, Vogue Living, GQ BULGARIA Glamour CHINA Vogue, AD, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Style, Condé Nast Center of Fashion & Design, Vogue Me, Vogue Film CZECH REPUBLIC AND SLOVAKIA Vogue, La Cucina Italiana GERMANY GQ Bar Berlin HUNGARY Glamour ICELAND Glamour KOREA Vogue, GQ, Allure, W MIDDLE EAST Vogue, Condé Nast Traveller, AD, GQ, Vogue Café Riyadh POLAND Vogue, Glamour PORTUGAL Vogue, GQ , Vogue Café Porto ROMANIA Glamour RUSSIA Vogue Café Moscow, Tatler Club Moscow SOUTH AFRICA House & Garden, GQ, Glamour, House & Garden Gourmet, GQ Style, Glamour Hair THE NETHERLANDS Vogue, Glamour, Vogue the Book, Vogue Man, Vogue Living THAILAND Vogue, GQ TURKEY Vogue, GQ UKRAINE Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev
C ONDÉ NAST USA PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Robert A Sauerberg, Jr ARTISTIC DIRECTOR Anna Wintour Vogue, Vanity Fair, Glamour, Brides, Self, GQ, GQ Style, The New Yorker, Condé Nast Traveler, Allure, AD, Bon Appétit, Epicurious, Wired, W, Golf Digest, Teen Vogue, Ars Technica, Pitchfork, Backchannel, Them
LONDON SHOWROOM 9 L A N G T O N S T R EE T, S W10 0 J L + 4 4 (0)172 8 6 3 5 02 0 W W W.VOLGA L INEN.C O.UK
Wallpaper background: ‘Osmunda Frond’ (ivy on stone), from Soane
FROM THE EDITOR
C
hristmas preparations are now beginning for most of us – even if only as a vague mental list – and, in this December issue, we have gone all out with ideas and inspiration for presents, decorating and food. We have Sally Clarke’s advice on cooking a goose for Christmas Day (from page 133), a grand country house ready to host the largest of house parties (from page 82), our selection of the 10 best places to find out-of-the-ordinary presents (from page 33) and Rita Konig discussing her desire to return to tinsel and coloured tree lights (on page 69). We have even created tree decorations from trimmings to help stir your festive enthusiasm (pages 59–60). Presents that are interiors related can make for the best or the worst gifts so, with this in mind, we have asked some of our most stylish friends to divulge what their house wants for Christmas (on pages 63-67). Although surprises can be exciting, the best sort of presents are those you have coveted for some time. Between them, Skye McAlpine, Martin Ephson, Will Smalley, Emma Burns and Bridie Hall have come up with plenty of brilliant ideas for one’s own list and several that could be given to friends and family unprompted – like the posh kindling Emma asks for, where even the box it comes in will go up in flames, leaving you with
no unwanted clutter, but only memories of well-lit fires and hopefully happy, cosy times. For those less interested in Christmas – I hear your jaded sighs at the very mention of it – or with little time to devote to it, there is plenty of decorating inspiration, too. The houses in this issue are diverse in scale and type and all are ambitious in their vision. As well as the grand country house, there is a remote cottage in Wales (from page 92), for which the designer John McCall devised a story around which to decorate it. By way of contrast, we have the most sophisticated of Mayfair apartments by the lauded American designer Steven Gambrel (from page 98) and a brand new house slotted into an awkward gap between houses in Chelsea (from page 106). There is also the maddest of Italian gardens – Bomarzo – filled with sixteenth-century statues so outlandish that they could easily come alive in the night (pages 120-123). Whether you are seeking advice or escapism, this issue should provide plenty of both. Read on.
F O R M O R E D E C O R AT I O N I N S P I R AT I O N , V I S I T H O U S E A N D G A R D E N .C O.U K
12 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
NICHOLAS SEATON
F O L L O W U S O N T W I T T E R , FA C E B O O K , I N S TA G R A M A N D P I N T E R E S T, A N D
CATCHPOLE & RYE KENT ENGLAND
EXCLUSIVE
LUXURY
BATHROOMS
L O N D O N • T U N B R I D G E W ELL S • A S H F O R D
T. 020 7351 0940
www.catchpoleandrye.com
The Pyrford Double Vanity Unit with Slate Countertop - Painted Midnight Sky
JULIAN CHICHESTER
JULIANCHICHESTER.COM LONDON
| NEW YORK
INSIDER SHOPPI NG | N EWS | A RT | BOOK S
1
2
3
4
7
5
6
LET IT GLOW CHARLIE PORTER presents an array of elegant metal sconces ideal for candlelit celebrations 1 Forged iron ‘Oak Wreath Wall Light’, 47 x 40 x 9cm, £2,160, from Cox London. 2 Brass and glass ‘Hurricane Candle Sconce’, 31 x 12 x 18cm, £99, from Jim Lawrence. 3 ‘L 3082’ Forties French glass and brass wall sconce, 30 x 26 x 6cm, £1,500 for a pair, from Carlton Davidson. 4 Cast brass ‘Rococo Candle Sconce’, 20.5 x 8.75 x 18cm, £850, from Robert Kime. 5 Pewter ‘Flavio Wall Sconce’, 33 x 12 x 7cm, £152, from Cosi Tabellini. 6 Antiqued brass ‘William White Sconce’, 20 x 12.5 x 21cm, £392 for a pair, from Robert Kime. 7 Chrome ‘The Large Shell Wall Light’, 44.5 x 38 x 9cm, £1,350, from Soane. ‘Lammertin’ wallpaper (malachite), 137cm wide, £79 a metre, from Guy Goodfellow Collection. Tablecloth, nineteenth-century ‘Vegetable Dyed Linen Sheet’, 259 x 184cm, £480, from Guinevere 컄
PHOTOGRAPHS SEAN MYERS
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 17
INSIDER | SHOPPING
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
1 ‘L1000’ Arts and Crafts nickel-plated bronze sconce, 32 x 17 x 13cm, £1,620 for a pair, from Carlton Davidson. 2 Iron ‘Wall Mounted Candlestick’ (gold leaf), 35 x 6 x 10cm, $275, from Casamidy. 3 Brass ‘Double Candle Sconce’, 30.5 x 21.6 x 6.4cm, £118, from Jane Knapp. 4 Hand-beaten pewter ‘Candle Sconce No5’, 15 x 15 x 6cm, £195, from The Shop Floor Project. 5 Steel ‘Friston Double Candle Sconce’ (beeswax), 24 x 21 x 11.5cm, £59, from Jim Lawrence. 6 Pewter ‘Fausto Wall Sconce Candlestick’, 28 x 14 x 7cm, £158, from Cosi Tabellini. 7 Brass ‘Leland Wall Candle Holder’, 6 x 7 x 10cm, £26, from Rowen & Wren. ‘Fez’ wallpaper (paprika), 137cm wide, £79 a metre, from Guy Goodfellow Collection. Tablecloth, nineteenth-century ‘Vegetable Dyed Linen Sheet’, 290 x 188cm, £480, from Guinevere 컄
18 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
INSIDER | SHOPPING
1
2
3
4
5
7
6
8
1 Brass ‘Door Sconce’, by Malin Appelgren, 38 x 5 x 7cm, £170, from The Shop Floor Project. 2 Lacquered steel and glass ‘Coupled Round Wall Mirror Sconce’ (blue/round), 37 x 30 x 10.5cm, £69, from Made In Design. 3 Copper ‘Philodendron Leaf’, 48 x 24 x 11.5cm, £160, from Jane Knapp. 4 Brass ‘Gold Shell Candle Holders’, from left: 10 x 8 x 4cm, £11.95; 16 x 10 x 4cm, £13.95; from Graham and Green. 5 Brass ‘Candle Sconce No3’, by Malin Appelgren, 29 x 29 x 6cm, £380, from The Shop Floor Project. 6 & 7 Brass ‘Sconce Reflex’, 38 x 6 x 6cm; and ‘Sconce Pendel’, 50 x 3 x 6cm; both by Pierre Forssell, €106 each, from Skultuna. 8 Brass ‘Lup Wall Candle Holder Half Round’, by Hay, 11 x 11 x 12cm, £39, from Amara. ‘Medina’ wallpaper (indigo), 145cm wide, £79 a metre, from Guy Goodfellow Collection. Tablecloth, nineteenth-century ‘Vegetable Dyed Linen Sheet’, 290 x 188cm, £480, from Guinevere. CANDLES AND TABLEWARE, THROUGHOUT ‘Dinner Candles’, £17.50 for 50; ‘Household Candles’, £14.60 for 10; ‘Tealights’, £7 for 50; all by Price’s; ‘Pillar Candle’, by Bolsius, £2.99 for four; all from Amazon. Glass ‘Wine Water Glasses’, £40 for 4; ‘Serve Bonbon Jar’, 38 x 18cm diameter, £50 including lid; ‘Julia Decanter’, 46 x 31 x 28cm, £60; ‘Vienna Cake Stand & Dome’ (dome not pictured), 20.5 x 14cm diameter, £28; and ‘Serve Low Comport’, 14 x 32cm diameter, £53; all by LSA; ‘Elegance Champagne Belle Coupes’, by Waterford Crystal, 15 x 11cm diameter, £60 for 2; all from Amara. Stainless steel ‘Silver Charger’, 33cm, £2.50; steel ‘Mini Sauce Pan Copper Effect’, 8 x 16.5 x 9cm, £5; both from Wilko. For suppliers’ details, see Stockists page 첸
20 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
Introducing Exclusively
Plisse & Inciso
LONDON SHOWROOMS WATERLOO CHELSEA CHISWICK FULHAM NOTTING HILL MUSWELL HILL PRIMROSE HILL WIMBLEDON
NATIONAL SHOWROOMS ST ALBANS TUNBRIDGE WELLS DARTFORD BRIDGE GUILDFORD MANCHESTER NEW SHOWROOMS WINDSOR AMERSHAM
cphar t.co.uk
INSIDER | SHOPPING
‘Factory Medium’ metal light (polished brass), by Elisa Giovannoni, 46 x 63cm diameter, £1,604.80, from Ghidini 1961
‘Nasturtium’ wallpaper (from left: sky, meadow), by Lake August, 69cm wide, £175 a 4.5-metre roll, from The Fabric Collective
‘German Straw Mobile’,52 x 20cm, £20, from Raj Tent Club
Part-glazed ‘Porcelain Fruit Stand’, 14 x 30.5cm diameter, from £210, from John Julian
GABBY DEEMING shows us what has caught her eye this month
Upholstered hardwood ‘Princesse Divan’ with mix-and-match cotton mattresses and cushions, 46 x 90 x 190cm, £2,400 as shown, from Caravane 컄
TUVSHU.FOTOGRAFER; MICHELE BRANCA/PIERO FASANOTTO
Wood ‘End of Day Confetti Turned Column Lampbase’ (blue), by Bridie Hall at Home, 58 x 18cm diameter, £785; ‘Linen Splatter Lampshade’ (blue), by Bridie Hall at Home and Melodi Horne, 45cm diameter, £450; both from Pentreath & Hall
‘Renaissance N.25 Bleu’ cashmere blanket, by Saved NY and Antoinette Poisson, 180 x 130cm, £1,500, from Saved NY
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 25
INSIDER | SHOPPING
Cotton ‘Palm Ikat Cushion’ (pink & green), by Archive New York, 30 x 50cm, £105, from Couverture & The Garbstore
‘Rabbit’ and ‘Bear’ pressed brass decorations, from 5cm high, £5.50 each, from RE
Wrought-iron ‘Iznik Shelf Uprights’, 205 x 40 x 3cm, €1,030 each (excluding wooden shelves), from Emery & Cie
‘Apollo Cocktail Chairs’ (emerald), 82.5 x 56 x 62cm, £2,995 each, from Luke Edward Hall
Hand-painted lacquered ‘Large Etienne Tray’ (green), by Luke Edward Hall & The Lacquer Company, 40 x 60cm, £395, from Luke Edward Hall
26 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
RICH KENWORTHY; WING CHAN
Crackers (multicolour), £20 for a set of 6, from Habitat 컄
INSIDER | SHOPPING
Cotton ‘Tapestry Blanket V09’, 172 x 135cm, €160, from Viso Project
‘Modernist Bird’ hand-painted papiermâché and ribbon decorations, 11cm wide, £12 each, from The Shop Floor Project
‘Weeds & Wildflowers’ stoneware platter, 32 x 25cm, £55, from Rachael Cocker
Hand-block-printed cotton ‘Eiderdowns’ (aubergine, sky blue), by Molly Mahon x Edit58, 130 x 100cm, from £185 each, from Edit58
Steel and leather ‘Afteroom Lounge Chair’ (cognac), by Afteroom, 75 x 70 x 80cm, £1,699, from Menu. For suppliers’ details, see Stockists page 첸
28 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
®
AWARD-WINNING HARDWOOD FLOORS FROM £135 PER M2 THE INTERNATIONAL
DESIGN & ARCHITECTURE
AWARDS 2018
WINNER WINNER OF THE HARD FLOOR CATEGORY 2018 INTERNATIONAL DESIGN & ARCHITECTURE AWARDS HOUSE & GARDEN’S 2018 PROJECT OF THE YEAR AWARD FEATURED ELEMENT7’S FLOORS THROUGHOUT
element7.co.uk
+ 44 (0)20 7736 2366
EXCEPTIONALLY ENGINEERED WORLD-CLASS INTERIOR FLOORS WIDE-PLANK
PARQUET
LEATHER
BESPOKE
INSIDER | SHOPPING WISE BUYS
1
2
3
Throws
ANOUSKA CAVE selects beautiful blankets for under £100
4
6
1 Wool ‘Corona Blanket’ (grey rose), by Lapuan Kankurit, 170 x 130cm, £93, from Skandium. 2 Lambswool ‘Olle Blanket’ (blue/off white), by Klippan, 200 x 130cm, £55, from Arket. 3 ‘Mohair Throw’ (juniper), 185 x 140cm, £90, from Arlo & Jacob. 4 Wool ‘Rome Throw’ (flamingo/aqua), 185 x 140cm, £75, from Bronte By Moon. 5 Wool ‘Laight Check Throw’ (charcoal), 185 x 140cm, £95, from Soho Home. 6 Acrylic ‘Corded Tassel Throw’ (navy), by Verloop, 152.4 x 127cm, £80, from Liberty. 7 ‘Tile Weave Pattern Wool Blanket’ (ivory & grey), 220 x 160cm, £80, from Black Bough. 8 Acrylic ‘Soft Blanket’ (powder pink), 170 x 130cm, £24.99, from H&M. For suppliers’ details, see Stockists page 첸
7
5
8
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 31
news and views
INSIDER | NEWS
By ELIZABETH METCALFE
Some of the makers in The New Cratsmen studio, including (from let) textile designer Aimee Betts, weaver Catarina Riccabona, paint specialist Pedro da Costa Felgueiras, leather designer Otis Ingrams and artist Rosalind Wyatt
Where to do your…
CHRISTMAS SHOPPING
Find thoughtful and inspiring gifts in our roundup of the 10 best shops, pop-ups and markets
THE NEW CRAFTSMEN
1
THE NEW CRAFTSMEN, W1 Those in search of beautifully crafted, individual Christmas gifts should pay a visit to The New Craftsmen in Mayfair. The gallery, which is a beacon for contemporary collectable craft, will be launching a made-to-order service through which you can commission one of its makers to create bespoke items. ‘We wanted to give customers the chance to buy unique and meaningful pieces,’ says creative director Catherine Lock. All works can be ordered through the recently launched Studio, a dedicated space within the store, where customers can book one-to-one appointments and discuss their ideas. Craftspeople taking part include illustrator Jo Waterhouse, who will be creating a limited run of personalised collages from
salvaged paper and gold leaf, and ceramicist Agalis Manessi, who will be decorating her dishes with a portrait of your choice. Unsurprisingly, many of the pieces would make for generous presents – prices start at £600 for one of Agalis’s dishes – but there are other works with a customisable element that would suit lower budgets. Sylvia K Ceramics’ terracotta tableware, for example, can be decorated in colours of your choice from Sylvia’s palette (from £27 for a beaker). Most pieces have a lead time of six to eight weeks, so order now to avoid disappointment. If you cannot make it to the store, there will also be a selection of beautiful one-off pieces for sale online by makers who include the paint specialist Pedro da Costa Felgueiras and the visual artist Holly Frean. thenewcraftsmen.com 컄 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 33
INSIDER | NEWS FROM LEFT Earthenware vessels by Sophie Southgate at Contemporary Applied Arts; ceramics by Ditte Blohm at Eight Holland Street; the Cutter Brooks Cotswold store
2
7
PRESENT & COLLECT, CONTEMPORARY APPLIED ARTS, SE1 This annual selling exhibition at Contemporary Applied Arts is a brilliant place to pick up pieces by established and emerging designers. There will be something to fit every budget and taste. Look out for colourful ceramics by Sophie Southgate, from £115 for a small vessel. Admission is free. November 15–December 24. caa.org.uk
3
BEAUTIFUL & USEFUL: CRAFT AT THE GARDEN MUSEUM, SE1 This one-day craft fair brings together more than 20 designer-makers and is a great spot to source stylish pieces for the home, such as hand-carved wooden spoons and chopping boards by Grain & Knot, and willow baskets by Jay Davey. Admission £5. November 18. gardenmuseum.org.uk
4
MATILDA GOAD POP-UP SHOP, W11 Following her first pop-up last year, designer Matilda Goad is setting up shop again in Notting Hill. It promises to be an inspiring affair. As well as Matilda’s now-cult scallop lampshade, she will be selling her pretty tableware designs and new rattan lighting, a collaboration with Edit58. November 7–18, 97 Westbourne Grove, W11. matildagoad.com
5
THE NEWBURGH PRIORY CHRISTMAS FAIR, NORTH YORKSHIRE A chance to not only do your Christmas shopping, but also take a peek at one of Yorkshire’s rarely seen country houses. Around 20 small businesses are presenting their wares, such as British art specialist Michael Parkin Fine Art and homeware brand Punica. You can learn how to make the perfect gingerbread house (£20) or hear a talk by artist Ed Kluz (£15). Admission from £5. November 30–December 1. newburghpriory.co.uk
6
CUTTER BROOKS, GLOUCESTERSHIRE For Christmas, the American expat Amanda Brooks will be decking out her stylish sixteenth-century shop in Stowon-the-Wold with an exquisitely curated mix of pieces, all sourced from America, Europe and further afield. There will be pretty handmade tableware by French brand La Tuile à Loup, as well as porcelain f lowers by Vladimir Kanevsky, vintage American quilts and framed antique pressed-flower prints. You may well find it very hard to leave. cutterbrooks.com
WICKLEWOOD CHRISTMAS POP-UP, SW3 In what promises to be a riot of pattern, textile company Wicklewood will be popping up for two weeks on Sydney Street. Snap up Guatemalan-inspired cushions and quilts, as well as a new range of lampshades, created in collaboration with Pooky. A selection of tableware and inlay trays will also be available. November 19–30. wicklewood.com
8
EIGHT HOLLAND STREET, W8 This gem of a shop off Kensington Church Street does a particularly strong line in twentieth-century furniture and lighting, but also has plenty of gift potential. To highlight some of the loveliest pieces, it has asked 20 creatives, including decorator Adam Bray and textile designer Christine Van Der Hurd, to choose their favourite object from the shop’s selection of studio pottery, ceramics and art. Prices range from £50 to £5,000 and works include colourful abstract oil paintings by Francesca Mollett and porcelain by Ditte Blohm. It also stocks a wonderful range of glassware if you are looking to really spruce up your Christmas table. 8hollandstreet.com
9
CHRISTMAS FAIR IN THE COTSWOLDS AT DAYLESFORD, GLOUCESTERSHIRE With more than 200 stalls to browse, this is a brilliant spot for gift hunting. Wander through the three marquees that house the fair to find jewellery, homeware, textiles, toys and clothes. Stop off for sustenance at the pop-up Creed restaurant. A portion of the proceeds will go to WellChild, a national charity that helps seriously ill children. November 5–7; cotswoldfair.com
10
CRESSIDA BELL OPEN STUDIO, E5 Artist Cressida Bell will be opening her studio in east London for her annual Christmas event. It is the perfect spot to pick up lampshades, cushions and cards, while having a mooch around Cressida’s workplace. November 29 and December 1–2; cressidabell.co.uk 컄
INSIDER | NEWS
DANISH ADDITION Carl Hansen & Søn, known for producing some of the most iconic twentieth-century Danish furniture, is the latest design store to set up shop on Pimlico Road, SW1. It joins stalwarts such as Rose Uniacke, and other recent additions that include Fermoie and de Le Cuona. The company works with a number of contemporary designers, as well as producing pieces by Danish masters including Hans Wegner and Kaare Klint. It is perhaps best known for its Wegner-designed dining chairs – the ‘Wishbone’ (right) is one of the company’s bestsellers – but this new store shows that it is more than just a chair maker. Organised into inspiring room sets, there is a broad range of items on show, from sofas to shelving. There is even a kitchen at the back of the space, cleverly made by modifying Mogens Koch’s ‘MK’ bookcase system. carlhansen.com
D I A RY DAT E S Leanne Walstow recommends two fairs in November
Art & Antiques for Everyone November 15–18 With more than 200 dealers specialising in everything from traditional eighteenth-century furniture to twentieth-century Scandinavian pottery, Art & Antiques for Everyone – held three times a year at Birmingham’s NEC – is the largest fair outside London where the exhibitors are vetted for quality. Look out for ArtDecoArt, which will be selling original French prints from £25. Entry from £12. antiquesforeveryone.co.uk
Midcentury Modern November 18
Ikea’s modern classics This autumn, Ikea is bringing back some of its classic designs – from the Fities through to the Nineties – in a collection that celebrates the company’s 75th anniversary. Some pieces are available now, including the rattan ‘Gagnet’ chair, which launched in 1958 when Ikea opened its first store in Sweden. In December, a number of minimalist Nineties designs will launch, including the bistro-style ‘Bjurån’ chair and the ‘PS 1995’ storage bench (both pictured above). ikea.com
As many as 85 dealers and designers descend upon Dulwich College, SE21 for one day in November to offer a selection of mid-centurymodern antiques, as well as contemporary pieces by new designers. Head upstairs – if you can tear yourself away from the furniture on the ground floor – to browse wallpaper, ceramics, cushions and eclectic gits. Admission from £9. modernshows.com
Christmas craft courses CALLIGRAPHY COURSE Perfect your penmanship in time for the Christmas card onslaught during this workshop with lettering designer Alice Gabb. At Pearl & Groove, Notting Hill, W10. December 4 & 11, £60 alicegabb.com
CONTEMPORARY CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS Make the most of foraged woodland materials and transform them into tree decorations and garlands. At West Dean, West Sussex. December 18, £140 westdean.org.uk
36 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
GARLAND WORKSHOP Craft a garland using pheasant feathers, dried oranges and cinnamon sticks, while enjoying mince pies and mulled wine. At Bolton Abbey, North Yorkshire. December 6, £45 boltonabbey.com
CHRISTMAS CARDS WORKSHOP With artist Helen Brown, learn to carve a woodblock and use it to hand-print your own set of cards. At Charleston, East Sussex. November 27, from £80 charleston.org.uk 첸
A PALETTE OF 180 COLOURS FREE COLOUR CARD | PAINT TO ORDER Nationwide Stockists | paintandpaperlibrary.com +44 (0) 161 230 0882 | info@paintandpaperlibrary.com London Showroom | 3, Elystan St, Chelsea, London SW3 3NT | +44 (0) 020 7823 7755
For a Magical Home this Christmas Interior Design
Bespoke Curtains & Blinds
Handmade Furniture & Home Accessories
Hand-printed Fabrics
Paint & Wallpaper
Christmas Collection
Visit one of our showrooms: Alresford | Chichester | Harrogate | Marlborough | Marlow Saffron Walden | Salcombe | Sherborne | Tunbridge Wells
0344 980 8185
www.susiewatsondesigns.co.uk
INSIDER | NEWS
Outside Interests CLARE FOSTER finds fresh gardening inspiration
THE ART OF THE GARDEN
© LAING ART GALLERY, NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE, TYNE & WEAR ARCHIVES & MUSEUMS, MANOS CHATZIKONSTANTIS
The William Morris Gallery in Lloyd Park, E17, is holding an exhibition called The Enchanted Garden, exploring the magic and transformative power of gardens. Running until January 27, it illustrates Morris’s connection with gardens, including an original design for his ‘Trellis’ wallpaper, which was inspired by his own garden at Red House in Bexleyheath. Also on display are works by a range of nineteenth- and twentieth-century artists, from the Pre-Raphaelites to the Bloomsbury Group, including Edmund Blair Leighton (whose September is shown below), Stanley Spencer, Duncan Grant, Edward Burne-Jones and Vanessa Bell. The gallery is open Wednesday to Sunday, 10am-5pm, and admission is free. wmgallery.org.uk
WHERE TO SEE…
Holly
Enjoy a winter walk following the Holly Trail at RHS Rosemoor Garden in Devon, where there is a National Collection of holly. The plants are dotted throughout the garden, with around 44 species and 120 cultivars, including Ilex aquifolium ‘Handsworth New Silver’, which has cream-edged variegated leaves. Maps of the trail, with information about each plant, are available at the garden from the end of November. The garden is open 10am-5pm and entry costs £12.65. rhs.org.uk
DUNG HO Lou Archer left the rat race to rear pedigree alpacas and now makes a range of very effective natural fertilizers from alpaca manure. Lou’s Poo products include odourless beans and shredded manure (both £9.99 for 400g), which can be added directly to pots and containers for slow-release nutrients, and liquid plant feeds (£5 for 250ml). thearchersatthelarches.com 컄 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 39
INSIDER | NEWS
Focus on...
CONIFERS
This clipped blue Scots pine is underplanted with grasses to soften the effect
S
eventies conifers are back in fashion, but reinvented for contemporary planting schemes. Once established, conifers will provide year-round structure for very little effort. Slow growing and easy to look after, they need minimal or no pruning, are wind- and drought-tolerant, and will survive well in containers. Gone are the static rock-garden classics in unnatural shades of gold and blue-green, which have been updated with loosely shaped evergreens slotted into naturalistic planting schemes to provide contrast and structure. Some
of the hummock-forming dwarf conifers, such as Pinus mugo, can even be used as substitutes for box, as seen in Matt Keightley’s Jeremy Vine Texture Garden at the 2017 RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Fergus Garrett is a modern-day ambassador for conifers, experimenting with them in the garden at Great Dixter in Sussex, where he is using them for structure in the long border and in the exotic garden. They even appear in Dixter’s pot display at the front of the house, which showcases the different foliage textures and colours achievable with a mass collection of these plants.
FIVE COMPACT CONIFERS FOR CONTEMPORARY GARDENS
1
Cryptomeria japonica ‘Vilmoriniana’, the Japanese cedar, forms a neat, rounded hummock of dark green, turning bronze in autumn. It reaches 30-45cm.
2
One of the best forms of dwarf pine, Pinus mugo ‘Mops’ is compact and sturdy and grows to about 60cm. The foliage is dark green with white buds and purplish cones.
40 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
3
Pinus sylvestris ‘Watereri’, the blue Scots pine, grows slowly, eventually reaching about five metres tall. It lends itself to being cloud-pruned, so its height can be contained.
4
Picea abies ‘Little Gem’ is a dwarf form of the Norway spruce that creates low domes. Reaching heights of only 30-40cm, it is a good choice for containers.
5
Slow-growing Picea pungens ‘Globosa’ has pale, silvery-blue foliage all year round and will reach 75cm. A wide range of conifers is available at ashwoodnurseries.com
PICK OF THE BUNCH Rich Pickings is a Gloucestershire-based cut-flower business run by Clare Pike and Kate Gordon Lennox. As well as creating flower displays for weddings and other events, they offer a design service and run flower-arranging courses throughout the year from Clare’s Cotswold barn at Meads House, Leighterton. On December 17, they are hosting a Christmas Wreath Making Workshop (6.30-8.30pm), showing how to make a moss-and-wire wreath with seasonal foliage. It costs £50, including wine and mince pies. richpickingsflowerdesign.co.uk
FIRE IT UP
ALAMY/RM FLORAL/DEYANA ROBOVA; GAP PHOTOS/RICHARD BLOOM/CLIVE NICHOLS; SHUTTERSTOCK/PHOTOWIND; ERNST A KEHRLI
Keep warm outside this winter with pizza ovens, fire pits and designer heaters
With its low-energy halogen bulb, the ‘Firefly Copper Hanging Electric Patio Heater’ provides light as well as warmth. It measures 26 x 42.5cm diameter and costs £69.99. primrose.co.uk
Made from Corten steel, the ‘Städler Made Outdoor Pizza Oven’ has two stone baking boards inside the top part of the oven. Delivered flat-packed, it measures 85 x 37 x 40cm and costs £590. conranshop.co.uk
The ‘Barrington Fire Pit’ from Garden Trading is made from raw steel and comes in two sizes: small (55 x 49.5cm diameter, £110) and large (66 x 62cm diameter, £160). gardentrading.co.uk 첸
www.davidhuntlighting.co.uk
INSIDER | NEWS
Wall flower
‘Editions Sunf lower’ wallpaper by Laura Ashley has a stylish retro feel. Available in raspberry/steel (shown), slate/silver and denim/sunshine, it is 53cm wide and £20 for 10 metres. 0333-200 8009; lauraashley.com
OUT AND ABOUT
Latest launches… chic showrooms… hot buys… LAURA HOULDSWORTH takes note Laura at Luke Irwin on Pimlico Road, SW1
These Hermès porcelain ‘Tie Set’ American dinner plates come in a variety of patterns and colours. Measuring 29.5cm in diameter, they cost £100 for a pair. 020-7499 8856; uk.hermes.com
soft touch Ideal for upholstery and curtains, Romo’s ‘Forenza’ cotton velvet fabric is available in 77 colours, including (seen here, from top) abelia, maple and verditer. It is 140cm wide and costs £62.50 a metre. 01623-756699; romo.com
CABINET RESHUFFLE Harvey Jones has refurbished its Islington showroom to showcase its kitchens, including the new ‘Arbor’, shown above. Kitchens start at £18,000. 0800-389 6938; harveyjones.com
SITTING PRETTY I love this compact 2.5-seater ‘Kendrick’ sofa from David Seyfried. Shown here in ‘Crat Abricot’ fabric by Pierre Frey, it measures 84 x 170 x 84cm and costs £2,860 (excluding fabric). 020-7823 3848; davidseyfried.com 컄 42 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
PHOTOGRAPHS: SIMON BROWN; JOSHUA MONAGHAN. LAURA WEARS A YELLOW ‘MULTICOLOUR CERVO COAT’, £5,190; AND ‘DAHLIA CHENILLE D’ORSAY’ SHOES, £715; BOTH FROM BOTTEGA VENETA (BOTTEGAVENETA.COM). ‘FUCHSIA SARI SILK’ PERSIAN HAND-KNOTTED RUG, 274 X 182CM, £2,868, FROM LUKE IRWIN (LUKEIRWIN.COM)
SERVE UP
INSIDER | NEWS
Sleep in style The ‘Superior Continental’ bed, 200 x 180cm, costs from £6,000; the 125cm ‘Nest’ headboard is £1,244. 020-3914 1262; jensen-beds.com/uk
Top f loors Roger Oates Design has collaborated with interior designer Abigail Ahern on a collection of wool flooring in a dark, rich palette. Seen here, from top, are ‘Kobe Plum’, 60cm wide; ‘Malton Cinder’, 67cm wide; ‘Masai Smoke’, 70cm wide; and ‘Fitzroy Rosebriar’, 60cm wide; all £129 a metre. 020-7351 2288; rogeroates.com
WOVEN WONDERS Phillip Jeffries’ subtly patterned ‘Woven Petals’ fabric wallcovering comes in 13 colours, such as (clockwise from top left) golden rays, lime, dark fuchsia and blue flora. It is 91.4cm wide and £70.50 a metre. 020-7351 3333; phillipjeffries.com
Time machine Celebrating its 70th anniversary, Smeg has launched this retro drip-filter coffee machine. Available in six colours, including pastel blue and cream, it measures 36.1 x 25.4 x 25.6cm and costs £179.95. 0344-573 5573; smeguk.com
GOING ROUND IN CIRCLES Designed by Stafan Tollgård for Porada, the ‘Koster Ø120’ coffee table has a Bronzoro-finish metal frame and ceramic top. It measures 44 x 120cm diameter and costs £2,830. porada.it/en-us/ 44 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
TABLE TALK
Make a statement with this striking ‘Capricorn’ oval dining table by Tom Faulkner. Seen here with a steel base in the anthracite finish with a glass top, it is also available with a marble or wooden surface. The table measures 75 x 250 x 120cm and costs £12,150 as seen. 020-7351 7272; tomfaulkner.co.uk
In crowd NEWS ON THE LATEST READER EVENTS
Christmas cooking event
PHOTOGRAPHS: HARRY MITCHELL; NICK KANE. *PLUS £1.79 BOOKING FEE
LOOK SHARP Made of walnut with maple detailing, the ‘Radius Knife Block’ from Linley holds up to seven knives and one sharpening steel. It is 30 x 7.6 x 30.5cm and costs £295 (excluding knives). 020-7730 7300; davidlinley.com
OUTER EDGES Available at Harrods, the smart cotton ‘Triplo Bourdon’ pillowcase by Frette with brown or orange piping measures 30 x 40cm and costs £85. Matching sheets and duvet covers are also available. frette.com | harrods.com
J
oin House & Garden as we partner with kitchen design company Roundhouse and Miele on Tuesday, November 27 at 11am– 2pm, for a festive cookery event to be held at Roundhouse’s Guildford showroom. After a presentation on kitchen design, Miele’s executive chef Sven-Hanson Britt, a MasterChef: The Professionals finalist, will demonstrate how to create Christmas dinner-party dishes using sustainable ingredients, along with vegan and vegetarian alternatives. An advocate of seasonal produce, Sven believes good provenance is fundamental to great results. Tickets cost £25* each and include tea and coffee, lunch with Nyetimber sparkling wine and a gift bag. To book, visit roundhousechristmascookingeventbrite.co.uk.
NEWS IN BRIEF Café Wolseley, the latest venture from Corbin & King, has opened at Bicester Village and is open all day from breakfast through to dinner. There is also a takeaway counter and shop. thewolseleyshop.com 컄
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 45
INSIDER | NEWS
Next month sees the annual print publication of The List Directory 2019. Since its launch in January 2016, The List has become an invaluable guide for anyone wanting to have work done to their home
Whether you are looking to restore your house, revamp your garden or simply reupholster your favourite sofa, you will discover the best decorators, architects, landscape designers, specialists and makers on The List. Find that brilliant person near you to tackle your project, be it large or small. Here, Charlotte Richmond proiles three members
FARLAM & CHANDLER Between them, Harriet Farlam and Ben Chandler have more than 25 years of experience in the garden-design and construction industry. This creative collaboration has produced varied projects, from coastal plots to country estates, for which they devise beautifully balanced practical and timeless gardens that respond to the contextual considerations of the site. farlamandchandler.com
ANNA HAINES DESIGN This London-based interiors practice has a simple ethos: to translate the client’s taste into an interior that is comfortable and elegant, while sympathetic to the building and its period. Anna’s projects range from complete renovations to reconfiguring existing spaces, as well as sourcing antique and contemporary accessories. annahaines.co.uk
Drawn to the emotional link formed between people and places, Michela Bertolini founded her design-led architectural practice in 2001. Using textures, materials and natural light, she creates stylish and practical spaces. bertoliniarchitects.com
Are you on The List? Be a part of it by registering at houseandgarden.co.uk/the-list. For more information, call 020-7152 3639, or email charlotte.richmond@condenast.co.uk 첸 46 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
NATHALIE PRIEM; ANDREW STEEL
BERTOLINI ARCHITECTS
The design revolution will be televised The days of choosing between having a stylish room or a television you love are over. Introducing the Samsung ‘QLED’ TV, the intuitive new addition to the ‘Q Style’ line-up that’s designed to blend seamlessly into your space while delivering unparalleled picture quality
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
Rather than interfering with your design scheme, this TV gives you the power to enhance it
A
INGA POWILLEIT
s screens have grown ever larger, so too has the need to find an elegant alternative to the gaping black hole that so often dominates a living space when the television is not in use. And that’s exactly what the new Samsung ‘QLED’ is about – the luxury of owning a smart TV that remains beautiful and useful 24/7. What you need to know: on command, this appliance blends seamlessly into its environment thanks to a fully customisable Ambient Mode. This analyses the pattern and texture of the wall where the unit is mounted and displays the result on screen, leaving only the TV’s frame visible. These astounding chameleon-like capabilities mean that your ‘QLED’ TV can be personalised to match the exact pattern of the wallpaper or surface it conceals, making it disappear when you don’t want any distractions. Rather than interfering with your design scheme, the ‘QLED’ TV gives you the power to enhance it: letting you know the weather or news headlines, putting on a music playlist, exhibiting your photographs, or by becoming something altogether more inspiring – a personal artwork that can be hung on your wall, just like a canvas; a singular space to express yourself. Consider this the smart TV that can be tailored to your lifestyle, one with the power to put interior design at the forefront. That’s why Samsung has invited prestigious Amsterdam-based studio Scholten & Baijings to develop four innovative visual concepts especially for the Ambient Mode of the latest Samsung ‘QLED’ TV. Using sensitive changes in colour and pattern, the series features adaptive still and moving images, representing the natural 24-hour cycle of a day, as well as the change in seasons during a one-year cycle. It is rich in emotion for the mood evolves, bringing cooler shades in response to early morning light, through to sunset when the ‘QLED’ will evoke a warmer glow. Stefan Scholten and Carole Baijings are renowned for carpets, glass, and ceramic, tableware and textiles that exhibit their idiosyncratic palette. With Samsung’s ‘QLED’, their prized craftwork merges with a new era of technology, creating a uniquely precious design piece for the modern age, pushing technological boundaries in the name of enhanced design. ‘For us,’ Scholten says, ‘a successful design is one you will cherish for a long time.’ Enter the new era in TV that is anything but 2D. For further information, call 0330-726 7864 or visit samsung.com 첸 OPPOSITE Samsung ‘QLED TV’ in Mountain Ambient Mode. THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Vases ‘n°1 -2 -3’ by Scholten & Baijings for Sèvres. Stefan Scholten and Carole Baijings. Samsung ‘QLED TV’ in Weather Ambient Mode
It’s beginning to look a lot like
CHRISTMAS
art scene
The untold story
Edited by EMILY TOBIN
Exploring the history behind works of art
THE FAMOUS WOMEN DINNER SERVICE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Vanessa Bell, Virginia Woolf, Greta Garbo, Cleopatra, Catherine the Great, Helen of Troy
COURTESY PIANO NOBILE, ROBERT TRAVERS (WORK OF ART) LTD
K
enneth Clark, the art historian and broadcaster, was first inspired to commission an artist-designed dinner service following a lavish meal in New York with art dealer Joseph Duveen, during which they ate from an elaborate blue-and-gold Sèvres service originally made for Catherine the Great. As a patron of British modern art, Kenneth decided on the Bloomsbury Group duo Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant to design his set. The pair had already gained recognition in the applied arts through the Omega Workshops, where – along with a revolving roster of other artists – they produced textiles, furniture, book covers and homeware. However, Kenneth’s vision for an extravagantly decorated collection of dishes, cups and sauce boats transformed into an entirely different enterprise. In 1933, some two years after the agreement, following considerable consultation with Kenneth’s wife Jane, the artists presented 50 plates that chronicled famous women from antiquity to contemporary life. They were divided into sections: ‘Women of Letters’, ‘Queens’, ‘Dancers and Actresses’ and ‘Beauties’, allowing for something of a feminist potted history, which was informed by the artists’ own tastes and interests (Vanessa’s sister Virginia Woolf features and her writing influenced other selections). ‘These were not pastiches: they were beautifully produced portraits,
far from simply images on a plate,’ says Robert Travers, director of Piano Nobile gallery. He rediscovered all of ‘The Famous Women Dinner Service’ last year while visiting a client. Until then, many had assumed that the holy grail of Bloomsbury ceramics had been lost or broken up following Kenneth’s death. The set’s pristine condition aroused suspicion at first. ‘I thought that they were too fresh to be the real thing,’ says Robert. ‘But when I saw the Wedgwood impress, it was obvious.’ Subsequent research has also revealed Vanessa and Duncan’s own historical investigations, with almost all the paintings recalling famous images, such as Simon van de Passe’s engraving of Pocahontas and James Andrews’ celebrated watercolour of Jane Austen. The plates are also unsigned and, in most instances, it is impossible to discern the hand of the artist. This is in keeping with the Bloomsbury Group’s collaborative ethos, which embraced everything from multiple art forms to complex romances. Now, the dinner service has returned to Vanessa and Duncan’s former home and Bloomsbury hideaway at Charleston, where it was originally painted. The Sussex property has undergone extensive redevelopment and the plates are in a newly formulated gallery, along with original sketches and prototypes that tell the remarkable story of a unique commission. Holly Black charleston.org.uk 컄
The plates are unsigned and, in most instances, it is impossible to discern the hand of the artist
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 51
INSIDER | ART
1
What to buy…
GIFTS FOR ART L OV E R S
2
4
TAKE YOUR PICK FROM THIS SELECTION OF UNUSUAL ARTTHEMED PRESENTS
3
6
7
1 Screenprints (editions of 25): Soup For One, 60 x 51cm; My Feet Keep Dancing, 75 x 80cm; I Feel Your Love Comin’ On, 60 x 19cm; Le Freak (C’est Chic), 75 x 52cm; Everybody Dance, 60 x 53cm; all by Rhys Coren, £3,600 for set of five. alancristea.com 2 Porcelain Woman with Flying Boobs!, by Jude Jelfs, 16 x 8cm diameter, £75. cotswoldpottery.co.uk 3 Long Distance glazed ceramics, by Lubna Chowdhary, 50 x 90 x 10cm, £6,000 for six elements. frestoniangallery.com 4 Hand-painted and glazed ceramic bespoke hanging decorations, about 13 x 16 x 0.5cm, all by John Booth, £85 for set of four. studiovoltaire.org 5 Festival of Life by Yayoi Kusama (David Zwirner, £50). davidzwirner.com 6 Lucian Freud by Martin Gayford, David Dawson and Mark Holborn (Phaidon, £395). phaidon.com 7 Le Coeur Plate VII (from Jazz, edition 270), by Henri Matisse, 42.5 x 65cm, £18,000. simsreed.com 52 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
DAN KORKELIA; GRAHAM PEARSON
5
INSIDER | ART EXHIBITIONS
What’s on
There is a busy schedule of shows in the run-up to Christmas and the New Year
SOUTH ARABIAN ALABASTER HEAD OF A WOMAN, CIRCA FIRST CENTURY BC TO FIRST CENTURY AD, COURTESY OF RUPERT WACE ANCIENT ART; PORTRAIT OF THE SOAPSUDS GROUP BY CECIL BEATON (1930)/© THE CECIL BEATON STUDIO ARCHIVE AT SOTHEBY’S; BIRD BY ELISABETH FRINK (1952)/© TULLY AND BREE JAMMET/KEN ADLARD; ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/© HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II; MICER MARSILIO CASSOTTI AND HIS WIFE FAUSTINA BY LORENZO LOTTO/© MUSEO NACIONAL DEL PRADO
LONDON ART WEEK
The winter edition of this biannual event includes selling exhibitions, auctions and talks exploring more than 5,000 years of fine art. Keep an eye out for British art at Bagshawe Fine Art, which has work by the artist Robert Burns – one of Scotland’s earliest enthusiasts for art nouveau. November 29–December 7; londonart week.co.uk Pictured Robert Burns, Skywards, circa 1910 ALABASTER
Ordovas gallery will celebrate alabaster and the fascination it has held for artists across the centuries. This London show charts its use from antiquity through to modernist abstractions by the likes of Barbara Hepworth. Until December 15; ordovasart.com Pictured South Arabian alabaster head of a woman
RUSSIA: ROYALTY & THE ROMANOVS
Britain’s relationship with Russia spans more than 300 years through exploration, diplomatic alliances, familial and dynastic ties. This Queen’s Gallery exhibition examines the relationship between the two countries and their royal families. November 9–April 28; royalcollection.org.uk Pictured Laurits Regner Tuxen, The Marriage of Nicholas II, Emperor of Russia, 26th November 1894, 1896 CECIL BEATON: THIRTY FROM THE 30S
LORENZO LOTTO PORTRAITS
Working in the early sixteenth century, the Venetian artist Lorenzo Lotto produced portraits that are characterised by their sensitivity and great psychological depth. November 5–February 10; national gallery.org.uk Pictured Micer Marsilio Cassotti and his Wife Faustina, 1523
At the Fashion and Textile Museum, SE1, this celebrates the work of photographer Cecil Beaton. Expect to see images of socialites and celebrities, including Salvador Dalí, Elsa Schiaparelli and Marlene Dietrich. It coincides with the exhibition Night and Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs, which is taking place in the main galleries. Until 20 January; ftmlondon.org Pictured Portrait of the Soapsuds Group, 1930
ELISABETH FRINK: HUMANS AND OTHER ANIMALS
The largest exhibition devoted to sculptor Elisabeth Frink since her death in 1993, this Sainsbury Centre show traces the evolution of her work over four decades and pays significant attention to early pieces in the context of artists such as Rodin, Giacometti and Richier. Until 24 February; scva.ac.uk Pictured Bird, bronze, 1952 첸 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 53
1 9 7 8 | C E L E B R AT I N G F O RT Y Y E A R S | 2 0 1 8
0333 011 3333
INSIDER | BOOKS
WOR D S A N D P IC T U R E S What to read: compelling Christmas gifts chosen by ELIZABETH METCALFE FOR INTERIORS ENTHUSIASTS
FOR HISTORY BUFFS
MAY I COME IN? DISCOVERING THE WORLD IN OTHER PEOPLE’S HOUSES by Wendy Goodman (Abrams, £50)
Those who like to snoop around houses will enjoy this book by American design editor Wendy Goodman. It is not about slick interiors, but those ‘where the decoration is a by-product of a person’s passions in life’. As such, the 75 houses and apartments she visits – the result of 30 years of ‘design-hunting adventures’ – are a diverse bunch. John Pawson’s minimalist terrace in Notting Hill could not be further from fashion designer Gene Meyer’s colourful New York apartment. The text is brief, but the photographs – some taken by Wendy herself – make up for it. EM
Designer Ashley Hicks turns tour guide for this impressive tome, taking us on a journey through Buckingham Palace’s state rooms. This is not the first study of the Queen’s official London residence, but it does offer a fresh perspective on an historic interior. Superbly illustrated with Ashley’s own photographs, the book starts in the Grand Hall and proceeds on to the opulent state rooms, including the Picture Gallery and the crimson Throne Room. It is an engaging read. EM
THE HOUSE IN LITTLE CHELSEA by Clare Hastings (Pimpernel Press, £12.99)
FOR CRAFT CONNOISSEURS
WEAVING: CONTEMPORARY MAKERS ON THE LOOM by Katie Treggiden (Ludion, £30) PIXELATE IMAGING
BUCKINGHAM PALACE: THE INTERIORS by Ashley Hicks (Rizzoli, £40)
This book is a comprehensive, global survey of weaving today. Profiles of modern weavers include photographs of the craftspeople at work and their finished projects, giving a real sense of process. Five essays provide fascinating insights into the social and cultural questions surrounding the craft; one of these, ‘Weaving Gender’, offers an enlightening view on the surprising struggle of women to establish themselves in this craft. Leanne Walstow
Using archived documents dating back to the Victorian period, Clare Hastings charts the fictional history of the inhabitants of her own house in this collection of short stories. A succession of fascinating characters comes to call, but the true protagonist is the house itself. Its first owners contemplate William Morris wallpaper, while a later set of occupants consider a gas cooker to be cutting-edge technology in 1904. LW 컄
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 55
INSIDER | BOOKS FOR DEEP
FOR TEXTILE ENTHUSIASTS
THINKERS
THE GOLDEN THREAD: HOW FABRIC CHANGED HISTORY by Kassia St Clair (John Murray, £20) The curious should add Kassia St Clair’s second book to their Christmas list, as it offers an illuminating cultural history of fabric. The significance of materials that have ‘changed, defined, advanced and shaped the world we live in’ is examined by Kassia in 13 chapters. Who knew that wool was used to make sails for Viking longboats? Or that the linens used to wrap Egyptian mummies not only provided a protective layer but also had ritualistic significance? It is a lively and informative read. EM
FEWER, BETTER THINGS: THE HIDDEN WISDOM OF OBJECTS by Glenn Adamson (Bloomsbury, £20) This book is especially significant at this time of year, when we are surrounded by a glut of material items. One problem of our increasingly digital world, suggests design writer Glenn Adamson, is that we have lost touch with the importance of real things. Glenn makes a convincing case for well-designed objects – it is to do with not just their utility or their beauty, but the fact that they connect us to humanity. EM
FOR GARDEN LOVERS
GLASSHOUSE GREENHOUSE by India Hobson and Magnus Edmondson (Pavilion, £22) Two photographers give an evocative tour of 30 glasshouses and greenhouses across the world in this ‘ode to the humble plant house’. Some are grand, others are refreshingly modest. In North Yorkshire, a cactus fanatic has filled three greenhouses with succulents – what started out as a bit of fun soon morphed into a full-blown collection. EM
THE MAZE: A LABYRINTHINE COMPENDIUM by Angus Hyland and Kendra Wilson (Laurence King, £24.99)
In this new book, Angus Hyland and Kendra Wilson pay homage to an endlessly fascinating subject, examining 60 real and fictional mazes from across the world. Each story is accompanied by intricate drawings by French illustrator Thibaud Hérem. EM
JOYFUL: THE SURPRISING POWER OF ORDINARY THINGS TO CREATE EXTRAORDINARY HAPPINESS by Ingrid Fetell Lee (Rider, £20)
56 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
AT WEST DEAN: THE CREATION OF AN EXEMPLARY GARDEN by Jim Buckland and Sarah Wain (Quarto, £40) West Dean in West Sussex may now be regarded as one of Britain’s most magnificent historic gardens, but it was a sorry sight when husband and wife Jim Buckland and Sarah Wain set to work there 27 years ago. This book tells the story of how the pair have revived it, renovating West Dean’s 17 Victorian glasshouses, and transforming the walled garden into a productive fruitbearer. Andrea Jones’ beautiful and atmospheric photographs accompany the text, which is both informative and inspiring. Divided into chapters, which cover topics such as infrastructure, lawns and water, the book not only describes the restoration process but also provides plenty of useful advice for the green-fingered. It is a romantic story but one of true grit, too. EM 첸
PIXELATE IMAGING
There is much to agree and disagree with in this book. With its references to studies and surveys, it is, in a sense, a semiacademic companion to Marie Kondo’s Spark Joy, which promoted the life-enhancing properties of well-folded socks. Here, Ingrid Fetell Lee’s suggestion that decorative mouldings on ceilings can add ‘glimpses of transcendence’ to our lives is a bit of a leap, but there are also some intriguing revelations. David Nicholls
Create your own
Charge up, switch on, blow away. When you’re using STIHL, the garden is where the magic happens. Our BGA 45 cordless blower is just one from our range of long lasting Lithium-Ion battery products to help you keep your garden looking its very best.
Lightweight and quiet, our cordless blower is easily manoeuvrable and has a charge level indicator so you can quickly see when you need to charge the battery. Give yourself magic powers in the garden with the
STIHL Lithium-Ion cordless range. Visit stihl-magic.co.uk or pop into your local dealer for a demonstration of our products.
The STIHL cordless garden range from
ÂŁ99
Find your local dealer at www.stihl-magic.co.uk
HANDMADE SOFAS & BEDS www.love-your-home.co.uk Tel: 01483 410007 Showroom - Fox Barn, Peper Harow, Godalming, Surrey, GU8 6BQ
D E C O R AT I N G S WA T C H | D E S I G N I D E A S | R I T A N O T E S | P R O F I L E
1 4
2
5
3
8
6
9
7
10 11
12
All the trimmings RUTH SLEIGHTHOLME crafts tree decorations using colourful borders and braids 1 & 2 Cotton/rayon ‘2cm Loop Braid’ (bubblegum), £24.50; and ‘3cm Cut Fringe’ (cherry), £22.50; both from Jessica Light. 3 ‘Emery Embroidered Border’ (clementine), linen mix, 10cm wide, £75, from Samuel & Sons. 4 ‘Double Cut Fringe’ (blonde), linen, 6cm wide, £54.50, from Jessica Light. 5 ‘La Perle’ (crocus), by Gert Voorjans, viscose/cotton, 4.3cm wide, £22, from Jim Thompson. 6 & 7 ‘2cm Loop Braid’ (cherry), cotton/rayon, £24.50, from Jessica Light; with ‘Océanie Cut Fringe’ (9610), linen, 4.5cm wide, £15, from Houlès. 8 & 9 ‘Multi Stripe Tape’ (fiesta), viscose/cotton, 5cm wide, £42; ‘5mm Cord’ (sunshine), cotton/polyester, £26; both from No 9 Thompson. 10 ‘Frogmore Gimp Braid’ (01), rayon mix, 4.5cm wide, £108, from Wendy Cushing Passementerie. 11 ‘Castle Top Jasmine Bow Tassel Fringe’, rayon/cotton, 7.5cm wide, £290, from Watts of Westminster. 12 ‘Océanie Tassel Fringe’ (9300), linen, 6cm wide, £40.80, from Houlès. BACKGROUND ‘Fru Fru’ (from top: emerald, limoncello, aqua, rubellite), by Gert Voorjans, cotton mix, 24cm wide, £58, from Jim Thompson. TABLETOP covered in ‘Linara’ (malachite), linen, £37.50, from Romo 컄
PHOTOGRAPHS ANDERS GRAMER
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 59
DECORATING | SWATCH
1 2 3
4 5 7
6 8
9
10
11
1 ‘Cabana’ (poppy), by Kelly Wearstler for Lee Jofa, linen, 2.9cm wide, £22, from GP&J Baker. 2 ‘Trio’ (jasper white), linen, 3cm wide, £40, from Mark Alexander. 3 ‘Uxmal Appliqué Border’ (indigo), by Laura Kirar, linen mix, 6.5cm wide, £72, from Samuel & Sons. 4 & 5 ‘Muette Braid’ (05), polyester mix, 7cm wide; ‘Trianon Bauble’ (05), viscose and wood, 3cm wide; both by Nina Campbell, £35, from Osborne & Little. 6 ‘Erin Crewel Border’ (ruby), linen/acrylic, 11cm wide, £79, from Samuel & Sons. 7 Bespoke rosette (white), cotton/rayon, £38, from Jessica Light. 8 ‘Torero Beaded Fringe’ (cenote), fibranne mix and wood, by Laura Kirar, 6.9cm wide, £110, from Samuel & Sons. 9 & 10 ‘Maria Tape’ (jet), linen with beads, 7cm wide, £159.80; ‘Tumbling Blocks Tape’ (rouge et bleu), viscose/ rayon, 7cm wide, £199.80; both by Schumacher, from Turnell & Gigon. 11 ‘Cancencia’ (negro/rojo), by Gastón y Daniela, polyester/ viscose, 7cm wide, £136.80, from Abbott + Boyd. BACKGROUND ‘Fru Fru’ (from top: aqua, candy cane, sapphire, mandarin), by Gert Voorjans, cotton mix, 24cm wide, £58, from Jim Thompson. TABLETOP covered in ‘Linara’ (neptune), cotton/linen, £37.50, from Romo. All trim and fabric prices are per metre. For suppliers’ details, see Stockists page 첸
60 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
THE HOME OF LUXURY INTERIORS www.thesofaandchair.co.uk
À
L A
R E C H E R C H E
D E
L ’ Œ U V R E
DECORATING | DESIGN IDEAS
What my house wants for…
CHRISTMAS
House & Garden asked five tastemakers which interiors pieces they would love to receive as presents PHOTOGRAPHS DEAN HEARNE
Skye with ‘Historia Decor’ copper cookware, by Ruffoni, from £235 for 16cm pan (pictured centre), from Harrods. harrods.com
‘I love Caroline Popham’s paintings. There’s something soothing about them. I think she’s an incredibly talented artist.’ Acrylic and gouache ‘Untitled 18–22’, 35 x 43cm, £550, from Caroline Popham. carolinepopham.com
AS TOLD TO ELIZABETH METCALFE. PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE IMAGING; ENRICO FIORESE
‘These candlesticks are so wonderfully extravagant.’ Porcelain ‘Petit Oiseaux Bird Candlesticks’, 33 x 5cm diameter, £350 a pair, from Angel & Boho. ‘Ribbed Rose Beeswax Candles’, £42 for six, from Matilda Goad. angel andboho.com | matildagoad.com
Skye McAlpine Food writer
‘I’m obsessed with Ruffoni pans. They are a joy to cook with and I love how the more you use them, the more beautiful they become’
‘Chiarastella Cattana linens are beautifully made and feel luxurious without being too fancy. I love the scalloped edges of this placemat and napkin set.’ ‘Lido Dining Set’ (orange/amande green), €38, from Chiarastella Cattana. chiarastellacattana.com 컄 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 63
DECORATING | DESIGN IDEAS
Martin with a ‘Sopwith Camel Model Plane’, 22 x 79 x 55cm, £795, from The Conran Shop. conranshop.co.uk
‘This stoneware bowl is both practical and beautiful – that’s difficult to achieve when usually there is a trade-off between form and function. And it would look handsome in my flat’s stone and wood kitchen.’ ‘Handmade Fluted Stoneware Bowl’, 13.3cm x 25cm diameter, £120, from John Julian. johnjulian.co.uk
‘Designed and crafted in Britain, this glassware is lovely and I would take great pleasure in using it.’ Glass ‘Ruby Jug’, £85; ‘Coloured Tumblers’, £16 each; all from Emsie Sharp. sharpglass.co.uk
‘There is no better way to round off a day than with a cocktail – a Negroni in summer, an Old Fashioned in winter – and this tiny decorative shaker makes me smile.’ Miniature cocktail shaker, circa 1960, 10 x 2cm diameter, £120, from L & V Art and Design. landvdesign.com
Martin Ephson Co-founder of Fermoie ‘This model plane would look great hanging from the rafters in my study at home in Gloucestershire. It is a wonderful reminder of Britain’s brilliant design and manufacturing heritage, and I love the colours. It does require some assembling though’ 64 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
‘Ben Nicholson was one of Britain’s greatest mid-twentiethcentury artists and speaks to my mid-century aesthetic.’ Modernist lithograph of Ben Nicholson’s ‘June 1937’, 70 x 82cm, £3,912, from 1stdibs. 1stdibs.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE IMAGING. ON TROLLEY: ‘MURANO GLASSES’ (GREEN AND YELLOW, BLUE AND RED), BY LA DOUBLEJ, £175 A PAIR, FROM MATCHESFASHION.COM. ‘GREEK KEY CHAMPAGNE COUPES’, BY THE VINTAGE LIST, £75 FOR SIX; ‘BARWELL CUT-CRYSTAL MARTINI SHAKER’ WITH METAL TOP, BY SOHO HOME, £85; ALL FROM LIBERTY. LIBERTYLONDON.COM. GLASS STRAWS, BY CAMPBELL-REY, £50 FOR SIX, FROM CLOS19. CLOS19.COM
DECORATING | DESIGN IDEAS
‘Great pottery makes a house a home. The more of the maker’s hand on the object, the better. Emma Cerasulo’s pottery fits the bill and is so affordable.’ ‘Splatter Jar’, by Emma Cerasulo, from £30 for 12 x 9cm diameter, from Liberty. libertylondon.com
‘I love the freshness and humour of this quirky piece. The added bonus is that it is a functioning lamp. How unexpected.’ Resin and glass LED ‘Louie Banana Lamp’, by Studio Job, 30 x 26 x 15cm, £195, from Jane Richards Interiors. janerichardsinteriors.com
Bridie with ‘The Large Nureyev Trolley with Side Rails’ (brass), 90.5 x 101 x 60.5cm, £5,900, from Soane. soane.co.uk
‘So much of what Max Rollitt has to offer is irresistible. This is one of a series of paintings of Indian life and would fit nicely in my home.’ ‘Framed Mica Pictures’ (part of set), circa 1880, 30 x 42cm each, £8,500 for 22, from Max Rollitt. maxrollitt.com
Bridie Hall Designer and shopkeeper ‘I’ve wanted this trolley since I first saw it. If you are going to have a drinks trolley, it has to be well stocked and look the part at all times. I love cooking for friends and what better way to start the evening than with a drink from this beautiful piece?’
‘The fragrance of Santa Maria Novella soap transports me away on holiday, and the dog shampoo makes Max the best-smelling poodle in London.’ ‘Vellutina Soap’, £32, from Santa Maria Novella. smnovella.com 컄 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 65
DECORATING | DESIGN IDEAS
Emma with lacquered stainlesssteel ‘Ptolomeo Bookcase’, by Bruno Rainaldi for Opinion Ciatti, 215 x 35cm square, £799, from Aram. aram.co.uk
‘I adore this witty take on kindling – the boxes and firelighter crackers are wrapped with excellent headlines, making laying the fire more amusing.’ ‘Posh Kindling’, £25 a bundle, from The Red Dot Gallery and Jamb. reddotgallery.com | jamb.co.uk
‘I’ve been a fan of Fornasetti since I first came across his amazing designs, and I always make a pilgrimage to the shop when I am in Milan. This box of incense sticks would give me huge joy.’ ‘Pistola Incense Box’, by Fornasetti, £175, from Selfridges. selfridges.com
‘This rug would be great for my drawing room. I love the intensity of the green and I can imagine my shagreen coffee table looking stunning sitting on it.’ Wool and silk ‘Malachite’ rug, 274 x 365cm, £13,640, from Luke Irwin. lukeirwin.com
Emma Burns Design director, Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler ‘As someone who has piles of books on every surface, this bookcase is a dream storage solution, and the divisions make it easy to take out a pile without disturbing the whole. One on its own looks amazing but imagine how great a dozen or so would look’ 66 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
‘The joy of using something as charming as these lobster picks to seek out the juiciest pieces of meat would add greatly to the pleasure of eating. I love the design’s dolce vita quality.’ Silver-plate ‘Harpoon Lobster Picks’, $225 each, from Janie Kruse Garnett. janiekrusegarnett.com
DECORATING | DESIGN IDEAS
‘I worked on a project with the Auböck studio this year and it was an amazing experience. I’d be happy with any object from the workshop, including this ashtray (and I don’t smoke). Brass ‘Biomorphic Ashtray’, by Carl Auböck, 2.5 x 6 x 10.5cm, £550, from Sigmar. sigmarlondon.com William with an oak ‘PP250 Valet Chair’, by Hans Wegner, 95 x 51 x 50cm, £7,189, from Twentytwentyone. twentytwentyone.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: PIXELATE IMAGING. THERME VALS 02 (2006) © HÉLÈNE BINET/COURTESY OF AMMANN GALLERY
‘The best architectural photographer photographing the best building. Want. Please.’ ‘Therme Vals 02’ photograph (2006), by Hélène Binet, 127.5 x 100cm, from $6,000, from Ammann Gallery. ammann-gallery.com
‘These are reminiscent of pieces by Romanian sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi, for a fraction of the price.’ Brass ‘Aves Trio’ birds, by Co Derr for ArchitectMade, from 3.5cm, £149 for set, from Twentytwentyone. twentytwentyone.com
William Smalley Architect ‘In the absence of a dressing room, this economically designed chair is the next best thing. The top rail is shaped as a coat hanger and the seat opens up to become a storage box. It would tidy up my life and it is beautiful. What more could you want?’
‘This blanket caught my eye at the launch in Milan this year. I don’t really need it, but I really want it.’ Cashmere ‘Avalon Tangram’ blanket, £3,080, from Hermès. hermes.com 첸 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 67
www.forbesandlomax.com LONDON I NEW YORK
BEDS, SOFAS AND FURNITURE FOR LOAFERS LOAF.COM LONDON GUILDFORD WILMSLOW SOLIHULL ST ALBANS
DECORATING | ADVICE
RITA’S PICKS
Rita Notes
Rita with a vintage Welsh blanket from The Conran Shop and a tweed throw by Anderson & Sheppard
Hosting Christmas for the first time, RITA KONIG is hoping the builders will have left before her family arrives PHOTOGRAPH CRAIG FORDHAM
‘Olive Toscane’ chocolate-coated almonds, £10.95, from Rococo. rococochocolates.com
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: RYAN SULLIVAN; PIXELATE IMAGING
‘Vintage Cake Decorations’, by Culpitt, £2 each, from Star Bags. 020-7730 9333
‘Angel Tree Topper’, by Alice Mary Lynch, £250, from Harrods. harrods.com
‘Vintage Glass Baubles’, from £3, from RE. re-foundobjects.com
I
am obviously not the first person to be trying to finish a house in time for Christmas, but when the builders gave us an end date of December 18 for our house in Durham, it did put a new Challenge Anneka spin on the whole project. It is also the first time that I am hosting Christmas, which I am excited about. Most of my family are arriving on December 23, which does not give us a huge amount of time to get everything ready. But hey, ho – or possibly hey, ho ho ho – it is bound to be all right on the night. The solution is going to have to be to go heavy on the Christmas decorations to make up for the inevitable holes. There are a couple of radical changes that I am hoping to put in place. First, I want coloured lights on the tree – preferably the sort that come encased in little coloured plastic baskets. Last year, John Carter – one of the chicest florists in London – decorated his garden with coloured Christmas lights and it immediately took me back to Christmases spent with Morecambe and Wise and Angela Rippon. I have no idea where I am going to find them as, back then, Woolworths would have been the obvious purveyor of lights, along with that fabulously thin festive wrapping paper and woolly twisted ribbon. My other plan is to do away with the turkey and replace it with a ham. I may not win that one, as I have already been told that it will have to go to a vote, but I am not going to mention the lights to any of my family. I am basically planning to recreate a Seventies Christmas, with a bit of neon to bring it up to date. Most of my childhood Christmases were spent in London. So while they were abundant in every way, they lacked that run-up to Christmas that country versions have: everyone arriving in the days before and then time spent around the kitchen table getting
The solution is to go heavy on Christmas decorations things ready; or tea in front of the fire and around the tree. The Christmas cake is something that I am very keen on. I want a stand and a cloche and a little pipecleaner tree, with vintage decorations featuring people sledging on it. I wish I liked Elvas Plums (available from Fortnum & Mason) more, then we could add some Nutcracker Suite style to our holiday, but I will happily settle for gold-foil-wrapped marrons glacés. The children can spend wet afternoons making paper chains to decorate the playroom, which is unlikely to be finished, given our tight deadline. Christmas cards will be stapled to ribbons hanging on the drawingroom walls and there will be an enormous and heavily scented tree covered in all sorts of balls, skinny tinsel and some angel hair to set off my coloured lights. If I have managed to get the pictures up, there will be holly sitting on the tops of the frames, and a fir garland up the staircase – though this might be pushing it. Finally, there will be a generous bunch of mistletoe over the front door – and, hopefully, with all this to distract the eye, no one will notice the slight chaos. I shall obviously be heeding my mother’s advice that on moving into a new house, you should have plenty of Champagne, as one can never find the corkscrew. I wish you all a very Happy Christmas 첸 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 69
SPECIALIST
Peter Reed
JENNIFER GOULDING visits the Lancashire factory of the fine linens company, which has survived the vicissitudes of Britain’s textiles industry for more than 150 years PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY
T
he drive from the quiet two-platform train station at Nelson to the headquarters of Peter Reed is a gentle meander through the green and hilly Lancashire countryside. There is so little to break the scene, a scattering of horses here, a short terrace or two of Victorian houses there, that a temporary spell falls. I begin to imagine our destination will be one of the nineteenth-century cotton mills for which this area was once famed, powered by droves of men and women in period costume. Upon arrival, the spell breaks. Today, Peter Reed is based in a relatively modern building. Yet there is a romance to its survival. The company was established by its namesake in 1861, when Lancashire was the centre of Britain’s thriving cotton industry. Despite a dramatic decline in the Seventies and Eighties – when two mills a week were closing – Peter Reed prevailed, continuing to make its own cloth until just 12 years ago. Although the cloth is now woven in Italy, it is still cut, assembled and finished by hand in Nelson. Peter Reed is best known for its fine white bed linen, a reputation that was formalised in 2008 when it was awarded the Royal Warrant. Its signature is the corded border, designed in Victorian times as an indicator of quality: the more cords, the more luxurious the cloth. This enabled the servants in grand houses to distinguish between the linen belonging to the chambermaid and that belonging to the Lord and Lady. Peter Reed linen is still a feature of grand houses, but it also graces the bedrooms of luxury hotels, such as Llangoed Hall, super yachts, exclusive holiday rentals – including those available through Living Architecture – and, of course, many private homes. ‘We have very loyal customers. Often people come to us because their grandparents had Peter Reed bed linen,’ says the managing director Sean Clayton. Sean, a Yorkshireman with a dry sense of humour, joined the business in 2012, by which time it had been sold by Peter Reed’s grandson to an American company. He takes enormous pride in the brand, from its ethical and environmental responsibilities to the part it plays in the community. He is also fiercely protective of its staff. ‘Everything is made here by us and we never use agency
70 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
workers. We keep our team of 20 together, because they have the skill and passion to create special things,’ he says. These things, so beautifully crafted, can be made even more special with bespoke embroidery. There is no minimum order and pieces can be dispatched in just seven to 10 days. Common requests include monograms, family crests and the names of villas but there is also room for creativity, courtesy of a little-known resource. Previously, Peter Reed had a factory specialising in hand embroidery on Madeira, which is known for the skill of its artisan embroiderers. From the Twenties to the Forties, the women working in the factory drew hundreds of designs on thin brown paper, which were dated and signed in cursive black ink. These designs, now bound in books and stored in a chest at Peter Reed in Nelson, are astonishingly varied. As well as pretty florals, there are abstract patterns – some soft and fluid, others graphic and angular; animals of all shapes and sizes – from ladybirds and dragonflies to elephants and monkeys; sailing imagery, including anchors, buoys and ropes; Christmas motifs; and even some risqué illustrations, such as a naked woman in a cocktail glass. Customers can choose from these motifs for their linen or towels. If they wish, they can be modified, combined with another design or simply resized. It is then a matter of selecting the style of stitch and the thread. It is a chance to indulge the imagination and make something personal. In future, Sean plans to digitise the collection, so customers can search through the designs online. It is an obvious practical solution, though the pleasure of running a finger along the delicate drawings, so evocative of another time and place, will be lost. The embroidery itself is now done by machines working at speeds of up to 1,000 stitches a minute. Overseeing this noisy endeavour is Peter Petriv who, as well as ensuring the smooth running of the machines, reworks the designs so that each one is proportionally correct and aesthetically pleasing. He is a modest man, so it falls to Sean to boast on his behalf: ‘We can do absolutely anything.’ Strong words, but he has not regretted them yet 첸 Peter Reed: peterreed.com
DECORATING | PROFILE
OPPOSITE Managing director Sean Clayton. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The corded border is Peter Reed’s signature. Linens can be made bespoke, with every detail worked out on paper. Machine embroidery. Peter Petriv checks for quality, using a glass. Cloth is hung while waiting to be made up into linens. The ‘Cloud’ design. Hand inishing a table cloth. Archived embroidery designs
LIFESTYLE Jenny and Mona admire beautiful hand-embroidered panels from the Kit Kemp collection in their London shop
Cut from the same cloth
Chelsea Textiles founder Mona Perlhagen and her daughter, Jenny, have transformed an eighteenth-century country house into the company design centre and an elegant family home TEXT LIZ ELLIOT | PHOTOGRAPHS SIMON UPTON
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 73
LIFESTYLE
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT Mona and Jenny outside their second shop in Walton Street, SW3, with Jenny’s dachshunds; historic motifs are expertly reproduced for Chelsea Textiles’ hand-embroidered designs; Mona and members of the team in the basement design studio in the Oxfordshire house; elegant antiques add atmosphere to the original Walton Street interior
74 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
T
wenty years ago, a visit to the basement of Mona Perlhagen’s home on Thurloe Square, SW7, was just like entering Aladdin’s Cave of Wonders. Teeming with antique embroidered fabrics, each more beautiful than the last, this was the birthplace of Chelsea Textiles. Fabrics created in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries provided inspiration for exquisite reproductions, made with the same glorious colours and attention to detail by embroiderers in Kashmir – many of whom have now been working with the company for 25 years. Since the opening of her f irst shop on Walton Street, SW3, in 1995, Mona’s reputation has grown and designers such as Robert Kime, Alidad, Neisha Crosland, Domenica More Gordon and Kit Kemp now produce collections under the umbrella of Chelsea Textiles. Mona’s second shop, which is also on Walton Street and opened in 2000, sells a range of furniture – initially with a Gustavian influence (Mona’s husband is from Sweden and she lived there for seven years) and now including pieces adapted to contemporary interiors. In 2005, Mona’s daughter Jenny, having studied history of art and interior design in both London and New York, was made the company’s chief designer. ‘I loved what my mother had started,’ explains Jenny. ‘I would always travel with her to India or Sweden for auctions, so this has been a natural progression. She is also wonderful at encouraging new ideas.’ Mona is quick to add that Jenny has contributed greatly to developing the furniture side of the business and is responsible for much of the success of this element of the company. The mother-daughter collaboration is illustrated in their recent decoration of a beautiful eighteenth-century house in Oxfordshire that is now the company’s design centre. It offers a relaxing contrast to their London lives and is also used by the whole family as a weekend getaway. The house had been through the normal vicissitudes of different owners and 컄
Discover our stylish collection of handmade, ethical and eco-friendly homeware, Christmas decorations and gifts.
NKUKU.COM
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Informal wreaths of fresh greenery decorate the staircase in the airy entrance hall where portraits of Swedish monarchs line the walls. Views of the parkland beyond are framed by large doors on both sides of the generous hall, which runs from front to back. Jenny and Mona with Jenny’s sons Brock and Otto. The handsome stable block
76 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
many of the original 2,500 acres had been sold off. Today, the family has bought back some of the acreage, so that the house stands happily surrounded by its land – as befits its heritage. Mona and Jenny chose, where possible, to restore the house to the original layout, while at the same time allowing for all the family members – which includes Jenny’s husband and two young sons, as well as her brother and his wife – to have their own space when they are there together. Jenny spent many hours in the local records office, digging out old documents relating to the house and doing extensive research, as well as collaborating with architects, historians and English Heritage. It was decided to scale down the drawing room – one huge room running from front to back – thus creating a small library at the front of the house and a more manageable drawing room overlooking the parkland at the back. This was achieved by introducing a curved corridor two thirds of the way down the room, which, when being installed, was found to be within an inch of one that had previously existed. The resulting two rooms have now been restored to their original height and scale. The huge kitchen at the back of the house had been a patchwork of rooms with a large safe in the centre – presumably for storing the silverware such houses would once have used. 컄
LIFESTYLE
Pale seasonal flowers in blue and white china vessels bring a pretty touch to the breakfast room, with its Swedish ‘Haga’ chandelier
They knocked down all the walls and, in the space, Plain English built an enviably large larder and units for a kitchen with three huge windows overlooking the courtyard and stables. A corridor leads to a light-filled breakfast room for small gatherings, while on the other side of the house, overlooking the grounds, is a large grand dining room that seats up to 20 guests. The general feeling in the house is of space and light, and although many of the antique furnishings and paintings were originally Swedish, inf luenced by the family’s heritage, Jenny is gradually introducing more English pieces that suit the period of the house with the help of Wendy Nicholls from Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler. Beautiful bedrooms are decorated with Chelsea Textiles fabrics, complemented by furniture either made by the company or bought at auction. This house has become the centre of their lives, so much so that the Chelsea Textiles design studio is now housed in a large, airy room in the basement. Here, there is space to store the company’s archives – still the inspiration for many of Mona and Jenny’s designs – in a temperature-controlled environment. Staff from the London shops, as well as designers and artists, come and go for meetings, while mother and daughter have room to discuss and develop their new ranges. Both Mona and Jenny love the magic of an old-fashioned Christmas and put huge effort into decorating the house – every room is filled with flowers, decorations, candles and the smell of Christmas. They often have several trees – one especially for the children with all the not-so-stylish decorations they love. ‘It is really about capturing the feeling of coming home for Christmas,’ says Jenny. In the days leading up to the festivities, the house is full of friends and, on Christmas Eve, the family attends a candlelit service in the nearby church, returning home for dinner with friends and neighbours. As Jenny says, ‘We’ve lived in London for more than 30 years and never had such a social life as we enjoy here. We love all our neighbours. This house has really come into its own’ 첸 Chelsea Textiles: chelseatextiles.com FROM TOP LEFT Jenny creates a festive centrepiece in the dining room with flowers in jewel tones from Woodbrown. Swedish Father Christmas figures perch among greenery decorating a bespoke Jamb chimneypiece in the drawing room. Brock and Otto inspect the Christmas tree. ‘Fleur de Lis’ fabric by Chelsea Textiles has been used for the beds in a guest room 78 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
LIFESTYLE
Where possible, the house was restored to the original layout CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE LEFT Chef Daniel in the large kitchen, where units by Plain English complement a long wooden table and chairs. Elegant sofas by Howard Chairs in the drawing room are upholstered in a botanical-print fabric by Hazelton House
DON’T MISS OUR JANUARY ISSUE
THE SENSITIVE CONVERSION OF THE FORMER STABLES OF A STATELY HOME... CHRISTMAS DECORATING WITH FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE... CLAUDIA RODEN’S RECIPES FOR A NEW YEAR FEAST... HOW TO GROW PLANTS FROM SEED... A WILDERNESS SAFARI IN ZIMBABWE
DEAN HEARNE
ON SALE DECEMBER 6
EDIT
I n s p i ra t i o n a l I N T E R I O R S , b e a u t i f u l G A R D E N S , fascinating people, compelling stories
PAG E
MICHAEL SINCLAIR
82
The orangery of Ven House in Somerset, with ‘Pearl Pineapple’ lanterns from Charles Edwards
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 81
DRAWING ROOM This is one of an enfilade of rooms on the ground floor. The Heriz Persian rug is from the Afridi Gallery in Chelsea. The George III sofas from Edward Hurst have been upholstered in cotton velvet
82 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
Stately celebratıons
At Christmas, Studio Indigo founder Mike Fisher thinks nothing of entertaining 50 people at Ven, his eighteenth-century country house in Somerset TEXT CHRISTOPHER STOCKS | PHOTOGRAPHS MICHAEL SINCLAIR | LOCATIONS EDITOR DAVID NICHOLLS
EXTERIOR The formal garden was designed by Tommy Kyle, who owned the house in the Nineties. The garden’s symmetry echoes that of the red-brick façade, which dates from 1725
DRAWING ROOM Portraits by Diarmuid Kelley are combined with antique furniture for a modern take on countryhouse style. Matthew Upham supplied early nineteenth-century Russian chandeliers for this room and the morning room beyond
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 85
MORNING ROOM (opposite) The painting is by Ken Howard and the chairs are from The Parsons Table Company
V
en – the very name has a romantic ring. This glorious early-Georgian mansion, built for a rich London lawyer who bankrupted himself in the process, stands in gently rolling countryside near the Somerset village of Milborne Port. Grand without being uncomfortably large and formal without being chilly, it was designed by the West Country-based architect Nathaniel Ireson and closely resembles Buckingham House, one of the great lost houses of London. Yet while Buckingham House was later extended out of all recognition to form the battleship of Buckingham Palace, Ven has sailed serenely down the centuries to reach us almost completely unscathed. The country-house historian Henry Avray Tipping ranked it with Chatsworth and Belton in ‘representing the ideal of a country house’. It was commissioned by James Medlycott, who bought the estate in 1698 and had by 1725 accumulated enough cash to rebuild the house in the latest style, with seven bays of soft-red brick framed by Corinthian pilasters and Ham-stone dressings. Medlycott had Somerset connections, but perhaps the real appeal of Milborne Port was that it was a rotten borough. By a quirk of history, this village of just 50-odd voters fielded two MPs, enabling wealthy candidates to buy their way into parliament. This is exactly what Medlycott did, three times in a row. Unfortunately for him, in 1731 he was declared bankrupt and he died shortly after. However, his son
MUSIC ROOM (this page left) Leading through into the orangery, this has a Ziegler carpet from Afridi
KITCHEN (this page right) Cushions in ‘Tulips and Butterflies’ silk from Soane enliven painted French chairs
Thomas managed to hang on to Ven. A hundred years on, Sir William Coles Medlycott employed Decimus Burton to reconfigure the house, removing the grand south staircase to create a new drawing room and adding an orangery and conservatory to the west, but otherwise respecting much of the original work. The twentieth century was less kind to the Medlycotts, who parted with much of the estate after the First World War and the house and grounds in 1957. Since then, Ven has had a succession of different owners – a not uncommon fate among larger English country houses that have not been demolished or acquired by the National Trust. It is a happier fate than it might have had, but it does beg questions that are not often asked. How can a house built for an extended family and previously maintained by an army of servants be made to work comfortably for a couple and a staff of two or three? How important is continuity to the spirit of a place, or can that spirit be created at will, given plenty of money and a goodenough eye? Is there a difference between decorating and set-dressing? In short, what is a house like Ven for, once its original owners have gone? Mike Fisher, one of its latest incumbents, says Ven is, quite simply, ‘my salvation’. He immediately laughs at the portentous sound of the word, but one can tell he really means it. ‘As soon as I arrive here on a Friday, I relax. It’s a reason for working as hard as I do.’ Mike is the founder of the architecture and interior design firm Studio Indigo (his London house HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 87
ENTRANCE HALL (opposite) In the centre of this double-height space is a George IV figured mahogany table from Jamb MAIN BEDROOM (this page) Designed by Studio Indigo, the bed is dressed in ‘Colette’ silk damask by Schumacher, from Turnell & Gigon. The eighteenthcentury chests of drawers are from The Parsons Table Company
MAIN BATHROOM (opposite) The walls are in Papers and Paints ‘Pearl Colour’ paint. The bath is from The Water Monopoly
was featured in the October 2018 issue of House & Garden). He and his partner bought Ven in 2015 from Jasper Conran, who had owned it for eight years. Ven has attracted several owners with a pronounced decorative bent. During the Nineties, it was revived by the American collector and decorator Tommy Kyle, who had already transformed a series of houses and chateaux in France and the States. He furnished Ven in a grand French country style (as seen in the November 1999 issue of House & Garden). ‘Tommy saved the place – he sorted out the plumbing and wiring and the roof,’ says Mike. By contrast, Jasper went for a more authentic English look, although as he told The World of Interiors in October 2011, ‘I wanted a country house that looked like it had been lived in – a home, but with a quirky attitude to it.’ Mike is the first to admit that these were hard acts to follow. ‘I was in awe of taking on such an important house, but I wanted to do something in the same kind of tradition as Tommy and Jasper.’ He worked with the Dorset-based antiques dealer Edward Hurst, who had previously collaborated with Jasper and knew Ven well. ‘Edward was enormously helpful at tracking down pieces that are the right period for the house and also unique in some way,’ says Mike. ‘Houses of this period are quite dictatorial about how you furnish them. Ven’s layout is formal and rigorous, so the challenge was to make it comfortable and liveable.’ To that end, Mike has refurnished the house in a simpler, more modern style, mixing contemporary
GUEST SITTING ROOM (this page left) A George IV bookcase from Talisman London stands out against wallpaper by de Gournay
BEDROOM (this page right) The bed canopy is in Watts of Westminster ‘Marinella’ silk damask in celeste blue
art with fine antiques and specially commissioned pieces, with help from his Studio Indigo colleagues Fleur Liversidge and Giorgia De Marchi. ‘The obvious thing to do would be to hang lots of dreary ancestral portraits,’ Mike says. ‘But most of my ancestors would probably have been sent to Australia, so Diarmuid Kelley’s contemporary portraits are my equivalents.’ The show-stopper is the entrance hall, a doubleheight space with a marble floor, oak-panelled walls and gallery, but for Mike the real charm of Ven lies in the enfilade of rooms along the south front. ‘Jasper painted the drawing room a lovely yellow that caught the sun during the day and also looked fantastic at night. Unfortunately, I don’t like yellow, so we had to find another colour that would work in sunlight. In the end, we came back to what we call Battlesden pink, named after a house we did years ago.’ Ven comes alive when it is full of people, and Mike and his partner are great entertainers, especially at Christmas. This is when the entrance hall comes into its own. ‘We have a family celebration for around 50, as well as friends from the village and the church,’ says Mike. ‘We always make a big effort to show the house, which has been an important part of local life for 300 years. Ven definitely feels like this is it – I grew up round here, so it’s like coming home’ 첸 Studio Indigo: studioindigo.co.uk To see how Ven looked in its previous incarnations, visit houseandgarden.co.uk/topic/ven-house HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 91
MASTER OF INVENTION Tasked with decorating a nineteenth-century stone cottage in Pembrokeshire, John McCall made use of an unusually creative method to conceive its understated and eclectic look TEXT DAVID NICHOLLS | PHOTOGRAPHS MICHAEL SINCLAIR
John’s clients, whose main house is in Gloucestershire, knew this part of the Welsh coastline from walking holidays they had spent in the area. They bought the house at first sight after driving up the bumpy little track that leads to it and discovering the extraordinary view. It sits on 14 acres of grassland, which are also home to three Welsh ponies, with occasional visits from a local farmer’s sheep
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 93
I
t is often said, not least in the pages of this magazine, that the best interiors are those that have evolved over time, giving them a ‘layered’ look. Rarely, however, is it suggested how one might fast forward this layering process, perhaps because to do so can easily look contrived. The designer John McCall has a trick up his sleeve to make it work, though, and he used it when he was asked to decorate a small and imperfectly formed stone cottage perched high above the wild Pembrokeshire coastline. ‘I like to come up with a back story for a new project,’ explains John, who imagined a history for the house, which was built as a farm dwelling in the nineteenth century. ‘I came up with the idea of a slightly bohemian family who moved here from St Ives after the war. They were of modest means, having some family furniture – Edwardian and Victorian – with Cornish and Welsh pictures on the walls.’ Before John could fabricate the history of the modest two-storey house, there was much to do with the fabric of the building itself. Out went all the stripped pine, as well as a chimneypiece that was too large for the sitting room. In came Welsh slate and oak for the f loors, and tongue and groove for some of the walls. A ‘sad little extension’ could not be removed – a condition of working in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park – but it has been remodelled extensively and now sits more happily within the same footprint. While the history of the house was invented, John had a far more tangible relationship with its new owners – an international publisher and his partner, a poet and garden designer – having already transformed their manor house
94 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
SITTING ROOM (opposite top left and bottom left) The chimneypiece is made from stone reclaimed from a larger version that the previous owner had installed. Cottage Interior, Evening by Ivon Hitchens hangs above it. The Victorian reading chairs and Edwardian sofa were bought at the Decorative Art & Antiques Fair in Battersea. Opposite the chimneypiece, shelves painted a strong shade of green take up the entire wall. DINING AREA (opposite top right) The original stone wall was left visible in the new extension. The antique dining chairs are by Gillows of Lancaster and the fabric for the blinds is from Blithfield. KITCHEN (this page) John designed the units, which were made by Mark Stone’s Welsh Kitchens. The worktops are made from hammered black granite
in Gloucestershire. ‘We found John through the website of the British Institute of Interior Design,’ says the publisher. ‘We looked at every designer’s portfolio and each came up with a shortlist of one – John. His work is sympathetic to the architecture of the buildings he has worked on, but not slavishly so.’ When it came to decorating their house in Wales, John already had a good sense of the owners’ tastes and lifestyle, as well as their interest in modern British art. The finished result is a handsome, incredibly comfortable house to which the owners escape as often as possible. Along with the kitchen-dining space and sitting room, the ground floor has two spare rooms and a welcoming entrance hall with a vintage Kazak rug and a wood-burning stove. Upstairs, three small rooms have been opened up to create a combined main bedroom and bathroom. ‘It took a bit of persuading to have a bath in the bedroom,’ John admits. The couple were so pleased with the cottage that they asked John to decorate their house in west London. ‘I’ve become part of the furniture,’ he says 첸 John McCall: mccalldesign.co.uk
‘I CAME UP WITH THE IDEA O F A S L I G H T LY B O H E M I A N FA M I LY W H O M OV E D H E R E F R O M S T I V E S A F T E R T H E WA R ’
96 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
HALL (opposite top left) This was the kitchen of the original house, with an Aga where the woodburning stove now stands. MAIN BEDROOM AND BATHROOM (opposite bottom left and right) Upstairs has a more traditional seaside style. Once three small rooms, it is now an open-plan main bedroom and bathroom, clad in tongue-and-groove panelling. The basin cupboard is by the Water Monopoly, and the headboard and curtains are made from Carolina Irving fabrics. The painting above the bed is by Gillian Ayres, who lived in Wales during the Eighties. SPARE ROOM (this page) The shutters are painted in ‘Ball Green’ by Farrow & Ball. On the bed is a vintage Welsh blanket
TEXT MIEKE TEN HAVE | PHOTOGRAPHS ERIC PIASECKI
LINES OF VISION
This distinctive Mayfair flat is among the projects featured in Perspective, the latest book by New York-based interior designer Steven Gambrel, which showcases his work in the US and Europe 98 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
ENTRANCE HALL (opposite) Building Site, St Paul’s by Leon Kossof hangs on the rough plaster wall, above a bronze sculpture by Henry Moore, Working Model for Mother and Child. SNUG (this page) The walls are covered in green velvet, with a chartreuse silk trim that catches the light. Steven designed the sectional sofa, which was made by Dune, to reinforce the ‘enveloping’ effect
I T WA S I M P O R TA N T T H A T T H I S WA S N O T ‘J U S T A D E C O R AT E D ROOM’ BUT WO R K E D A S A COLLECTION SITTING ROOM The vintage 16-arm brass chandelier is a Guglielmo Ulrich design from the Forties. Side by side on the marble-topped coffee table are a ceramic piece by Kate Malone and a contrasting iron and stone sculpture by Geofrey Clarke. On the right is a Fities Italian green and red marble table designed by Pier Luigi Colli
100 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
DINING ROOM Behind the ‘Sputnik’ chandelier is a painting by Peter Lanyon entitled Cross Country, Opus 263. The chairs are made from burl wood and glazed lacquer, with seats covered in Fortuny’s ‘Simboli’ cotton
SITTING ROOM (above) The rug was custom-made by Sacco Carpet. Bronze and leather doors frame the entrance to the snug, where works by artists such as Edward Burra and Ivon Hitchens are hung salon-style on the wall. KITCHEN (below left and right) Afyon Violet marble was used for the floor, worktop and splashback. The stove is La Cornue’s ‘Cornufé 110’ in matte black with antique brass accents
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 103
I
t is fair to say that the name Steven Gambrel will not ring as many bells in the United Kingdom as it does on the other side of the Atlantic, where the New York-based interior designer has long been celebrated as a rare talent. Perhaps that is set to change, as Steven has recently undertaken a handful of projects in this country. He is currently working on a house in Holland Park and finished one in Maida Vale last summer. He also recently completed this flat in Mayfair. It is a pied-à-terre for an existing client, whose house in Chicago Steven also decorated. ‘Its interior had been gutted by a developer,’ Steven explains. ‘But none of the new surfaces or floorplans held any appeal for us.’ The entrance hall immediately establishes how he decided to rectify this, as a tinted rough-coat plaster now covers the walls and ceiling. ‘I liked the idea of having a dry, textured plaster; I wanted to reference London masonry,’ he says. The designer was also influenced by the style of Villa Empain, a Thirties art deco house in Brussels that is now a centre for the arts. This can be seen in the inset plaster door frames and overdoors. Here in the hall, a veined marble floor and a Travertine console designed by Steven lend a monumental quality. The icy tones of the entryway extend to the dining room, which is centred around a Maison Jansen brass and gunmetal table with an original Lucite top from the Fifties. These materials appear again in the ‘Sputnik’ chandelier by Bakalowits & Sohne that Steven found in Paris. The oversized, Italian, flushmount wall lights were another Parisian find. Two tones of plaster delineate the sitting-room walls, including a waxy black Venetian plaster from the floor to the chair rail. ‘It makes the ceilings feel taller – everything above that line sort of floats,’ he enthuses. The developer had dropped the ceilings to allow for recessed lighting, but this was removed, resulting in a gain of about 20cm in height. It was important to Steven that this space should feel like a collection, not ‘just a decorated room’. As he explains, ‘I like that masculine, English feel, but decidedly twentieth century.’ As such, the designer has furnished the room with some of the greats of this period. While the armature-like chandeliers are Italian from the Forties – the glass design attributed to Giò Ponti for FontanaArte and the brass by Guglielmo Ulrich – the elegant button-back sofa is a custom order from William Haines, based on an original design by the American from 1951.
104 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
T H E D R A M AT I C U S E OF STONE IS OFFSET BY FINISHES T H AT C O N V E Y A S E N S E O F WA R M T H Like a vivid hung tableau, the adjacent snug pierces the pale plaster serenity of the flat with its walls covered in Créations Métaphores velvet in a colourway known as absynthe. The bespoke Bronzes de France doors were covered in tooled leather by Atelier Mériguet-Carrère. It is, as the designer notes, like opening a jewel box. With its sumptuous upholstery in rich mossy greens, it provides an eyecatching contrast viewed against the plain walls of the sitting room. Colour has been used to similarly arresting effect in the study, thanks to the ‘Travertine’ silk wallcovering from Fromental and a geometric Tibetan rug from Stark Carpet in oxblood and chocolate on a pale ground. In the main bedroom, the wallcoverings are ‘Slub Silk’ by de Gournay in three shades, which Steven’s team used to create the illusion of architectural details. The same colours are visible in the custom border of the Leontine bed linen. The chimneypiece is a three-dimensional tour de force of stones mounted in resin. ‘We commissioned it from an artisan in India – it has a wonderfully organic, flowing feel,’ says Steven. In the kitchen and main bathroom, the designer’s dramatic use of stone is offset by finishes and metals that convey a sense of warmth and fixtures that invite you to touch them. It is these details that Steven relishes – in the main bathroom, stylish octagonal bronze legs are half buried in the bank of cabinets they support. ‘They’re really elegant when you open them,’ he says. Similarly, unexpected elements in the kitchen – including a narrow 1880s satinwood and brass drop-leaf table (originally from a yacht) and cube-shaped pendants from Fuse – punctuate the seriousness of the room. Steven cites the mingled refinement and roughness of Venice as a touchstone, as well as the elegant yet eccentric nature of Mayfair. As he says, ‘It is contrast that makes things sharp and exciting’ 첸 SR Gambrel: srgambrel.com ‘Steven Gambrel: Perspective’ is published by Rizzoli, £50
STUDY (opposite) The art deco library table has been attributed to André Arbus. ENTRANCE HALL (above left) Pierre Patout designed the vintage mahogany chairs for an ocean liner. MAIN BATHROOM (above right) The ‘Shot’ wall lights are from Collier Webb. SPARE BATHROOM (below left) The brass taps are from Drummonds. MAIN BEDROOM (below right) Roman Thomas made the ‘Arne’ bed
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 105
a glass act
The couple behind antiques emporium Guinevere on London’s King’s Road has created a striking contemporary house nearby, with airy interlinked spaces serving as a showcase for their collections of eye-catching pieces TEXT ELFREDA POWNALL | PHOTOGRAPHS LUCAS ALLEN | LOCATIONS EDITOR DAVID NICHOLLS
106 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
LIBRARY (opposite) A carved Indian temple doorway is lined with shelves to accommodate Indian and African artefacts. The antique dhurrie is also from India. HALL (this page) A gilded church candlestick stands beside a lacquered Chinese cupboard. The mid-century glass table is by Pace of New York
COURTYARD (above) This is the view from the hall across the glass-walled central courtyard to the library. On the corridor wall on the right is a collection of Fifties photographs of African masks and busts from the British Museum. DINING AREA (below) Downstairs in the open-plan living space, the glass floor of the courtyard becomes a 3.5-metre-high ceiling. A Seventies chrome and burr ash table by Paul Evans is surrounded by Renato Zevi brass chairs from the same decade. The French crystal and bronze chandelier dates from the 1850s. A French art deco lacewood sideboard with silvered mounts stands below a wall of framed mid-century Indian advertisements
108 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
SITTING AREA Modular seating by Camerich and a pair of American vintage aluminium chairs surround a nineteenth-century Indian rug. The ceiling light is made from antique saris, and the cushions from antique suzanis and quilted saris. An early twentieth-century monochrome Japanese paper Byobu screen hangs above the sofa
SPARE ROOM The Anglo-Indian rosewood bed has a handmade quilt stitched by a women’s co-operative in India. The cabin trunk-style bedside table holds a lamp with an eighteenth-century block-printed shade. A French, seventeenth-century carved walnut bahut à deux corps stands near a rare Tibetan tiger rug
E
very young writer is told to avoid describing a kitchen as ‘the heart of the home’ and to avoid using the word ‘eclectic’. But such is the astonishing variety of objects in the London house of Marc and Heather Weaver that the ‘e’ word rises unbidden to one’s mind. An Easter Island head meets a nineteenth-century French crystal lamp. There are dreadlock-like hats from Cameroon; a Seventies chrome and burr ash table from Miami; the embroidered cap of Le Sultan-Roi des Bamoun; and a bronze sculpture of a gorilla. Marc, his wife Heather and his brother Kevin own and run Guinevere, the Chelsea antiques emporium founded 55 years ago by Marc and Kevin’s mother, Genevieve. A woman of formidable energy, superb taste and a ton of business acumen, Genevieve was a milliner from Normandy who had worked in Paris. In 1955, she moved to London and fell in love with the son of her English teacher. A few years later, she was dismayed that her contemporary furniture did not keep its value when she sold it, but an antique table had increased in price. A business idea was born and so, too, around the same time, was her second son Marc. Years later, when he dropped out of university, his mother gave him an ultimatum: if he wanted to live at home he would have to get a job, and she suggested he start in the workshop, stripping furniture. From this lowly apprenticeship Marc gradually learnt the trade, accompanying his mother on buying trips and helping her to run Guinevere, until he and Kevin took over completely in 2000. Marc and Heather lived in a terraced house round the corner from the shop until six years ago, when they decided to build a new house on the site of a former goods yard nearby. This corner location meant there were height and light planning restrictions: there could be windows on the front elevation, but none at the sides or back. So the building was designed around a central internal courtyard. You enter through a handsome square hall, with a floor of chequered antique white and Rouge Royal marble, a pair of nineteenth-century black lacquered Chinese cupboards and a portrait of an Indian maharaja. Beyond the hall is the open courtyard, with glass walls and a glass floor that lets light into the impressive open-plan kitchen, dining and sitting areas below. Here, the couple was indebted to their friend, the designer Alidad, who insisted that the ceiling should be 3.5 metres high. ‘That’s what makes the room,’ says Marc. ‘Its tremendous volume.’ Another friend, the Danish antique dealer Karl Moes, was the source for the carved and gilded Louis XIV mirror frames, and the chimneypiece with its lion’s-paw details. The mirrors echo the scale of the room. Heather, who joined the firm in 1988, oversees all the textiles; she commissioned the silk globe light that hangs above the sitting area. Nearby, a Sixties Scandinavian bookcase holds a television as well as some of the Weavers’ extensive collection of glass. In the dining area, a bold French chandelier is suspended over a Seventies chrome and burr ash table by Paul Evans. ‘Some people would have put a twentieth-century light above this table, but Marc and I like to aim slightly off,’ explains Heather. Another surprise is a collection of Fifties Indian advertisements gilt-framed on the wall behind. The kitchen area, by contrast, is in a sober grey with splashes of red provided by the leather seats of its chrome stools. ‘We
wanted the kitchen to disappear, so we hung pictures on the walls, rather than kitchen cupboards,’ explains Marc. Upstairs, the library looks across the glass courtyard to the entrance hall. Books are not much in evidence, but the shelves themselves, made from carved Indian temple doors, are the point. In winter, the Weavers often sit beside the fire surrounded by family photographs and Marc’s old ivory carvings: ‘When I was a child, my mother gave me ivory to play with instead of toys. This was my first collection.’ The main bedroom, above the library, is an example of how to use a large piece of furniture in a small space. The striking Anglo-Indian four-poster dates from the nineteenth century, while the snakeskin cabin-trunk bedside tables were custom-made for Guinevere. Marc has continued the legacy of Genevieve, who, when she could not find enough examples of a decorative antique that she liked, would commission craftsmen to copy it. The walls of the bathroom behind the bedroom are lined with distressed mirror glass, with more mirrors hanging on top – copies of a distinctive Venetian design. Returning to the open-plan room below, Heather says, ‘It’s a wonderful space to live in – so calming.’ ‘This room is where we spend most of our time,’ adds Marc, who I fear might be about to describe it as ‘the heart of the home’ 첸 Guinevere, 574-580 King’s Road, SW6, is hosting ‘Lost and Found’, an exhibition of photographs by Mirella Ricciardi, on November 7-December 7; guinevere.co.uk MAIN BEDROOM The bedcover is a silk and cotton embroidered phulkari from India. Next to the bed is a snakeskin cabin-trunk bedside table, which was custom-made for Guinevere. The Tibetan tiger rug dates from the early twentieth century
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 111
The
K NOW L E D G E Inspired by the houses in this issue, LEANNE WALSTOW gives directions on how to achieve similar style
BASIN UNIT An ‘Antique Cabinet Basin’ from The Water Monopoly was installed by interior designer John McCall in the main bathroom of this Pembrokeshire cottage. Measuring 86 x 66 x 50cm and costing £2,719, it has a period style that complements the claw-foot bath. Both are painted in Farrow & Ball’s ‘Stone Blue’ to provide a touch of warm colour. thewatermonopoly.com | farrow-ball.com
MASTER OF INVENTION pages 92-97
LIGHTING The pendants in the kitchen are the ‘Ship’s Large Deck Light’, 40 x 37cm diameter, £449, from Original BTC. uk.originalbtc.com FLOORING The ‘Nomad Taurus Rug’ from Weaver Green offers a similar aesthetic to the antique Kazak rug John used to brighten up the entrance hall. Measuring 150 x 90cm and costing £169, the rug is made from recycled plastic bottles, giving it eco-chic credentials. weavergreen.com
PAINT The bookshelves in the sitting room have been painted in Farrow & Ball’s ‘Green Smoke’ estate eggshell, which brings a rich depth to the scheme; £60 for 2.5 litres. farrow-ball.com
FABRIC Carolina Irving’s ‘Aegean Stripe’ linen in sea/indigo covers the headboard in the main bedroom. It is available at £338 a metre from Tissus d’Hélène. carolinairvingtextiles.com tissusdhelene.co.uk
STOVE Ensuring a warm welcome in the entrance hall is a ‘Salisbury 12 Series’ wood-burning stove from specialists Chesneys. It measures 66 x 68 x 47cm and costs £2,100. chesneys.co.uk 112 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
ARTWORK An etching by Norman Ackroyd hangs in the kitchen of the cottage. Limited-edition prints of the artist’s work can be purchased from the Zillah Bell Gallery. Pictured is December Daybreak, Worms Head, Gower, which measures 21 x 32cm and costs £540 unframed. zillahbellgallery.co.uk
LINES OF VISION pages 98-105
S TAT E LY C E L E B R AT I O N S pages 82-91
WALLCOVERING On the walls of the study in this Mayfair flat is Fromental’s painterly ‘Travertine’ paper-backed silk wallcovering in the neptune colourway. Hand-painted with metallic pigments to create a deep, shimmering effect, it costs £257 a square metre. fromental.co.uk
MICHAEL SINCLAIR; ERIC PIASECKI; HELEN MILLER; PIXELATE IMAGING
LIGHTING The flat is full of vintage lighting that interior designer Steven Gambrel sourced from fairs and flea markets around Europe. Hanging in the dining room is a Bakalowits & Söhne ‘Miracle Sputnik’ chandelier. Bakalowits still stocks this design, which measures 40 x 60cm and costs €6,900 with a gold finish and crystal rods. bakalowits.com
MARBLE The glamorous blue marble bathroom was created by London Marble using darker Verde St Denis and lighter Verde Luana marbles. Steven says he was ‘inspired by old great houses in Belgium and England – I wanted to add some bold colour to the flat’. 020-8690 1011; londonmarble.com MIRROR Sam Orlando Miller’s ‘Untitled Mirror 10’ provides one of the focal points in the hallway, holding its own in a room filled with art and sculptural objets. Having grown up observing the family silversmithing business, the artist says he believes ‘the skill of working with silver is the understanding of reflection’. This piece measures 153 x 115 x 6cm and costs £42,000, from Gallery Fumi. galleryfumi.com
PAINT Architect and designer Mike Fisher, the owner of Ven House in Somerset, employed paint specialist Tony Mallins to create the ‘Battlesden Pink’ for the walls of the drawing room. 07973-145942.
FABRICS The grand scale of the drawing room has allowed Mike to use bold fabric combinations. Right from top: the sofas are in Alton Brooke’s cotton velvet ‘Velluto di Cotone’ (T2021/24), £114 a metre; Pierre Frey’s ‘Princesse Palatine’ silk in bleu, £276 a metre, was used for the curtains; the ottoman is in ‘Flocon de Neige’ cotton by Clarence House from Turnell & Gigon, £502 a metre. alton-brooke.co.uk | pierrefrey.com | turnellandgigon.com
PAINTED FURNITURE A pretty eighteenth-century Italian painted chest of drawers sits in the corner of the drawing room, its pale colour providing a contrast with the pink walls. This Gustavian commode from Lorfords (84 x 113 x 49cm) offers a similar aesthetic on a simpler scale, £2,950. lorfordsantiques.com 첸 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 113
NORDIC NOËL GABBY DEEMING and RUTH SLEIGHTHOLME create Scandinavian-inspired schemes for Christmas, using elegant wooden furniture and a cool colour palette with metallic accents PHOTOGRAPHS ALI ALLEN
WALLS ‘Sjoberg’ hand-painted paper-backed hessian wallcovering, 90cm wide, £320 a metre, from Mathew Bray & Matthew Collins. Bespoke foliage garland, £300 a metre, from Pulbrook & Gould. FLOOR Turkish wool and cotton flatweave rug, £6,850, from Robert Stephenson. FURNITURE Walnut ‘Woven Rush Lounge Chair’, by Smilow Design, £6,500; steel, walnut, sycamore and cherry ‘Tent Table’, by Temper Studio for Freshwest, £5,000; ‘Curved Walnut Bench’, by Will Elworthy, £2,500; all from Mint. Fifties French wenge chairs, £9,600 for eight, from Rose Uniacke. Late-eighteenth-century Swedish cupboard, £5,250, from Lorfords. ACCESSORIES ‘Ivy Pendant 8’ bronze, brass and glass light, £7,800, from CTO Lighting. ‘Stars’ crystal glasses, £69.50 for six; ‘Marbled’ melamine plates, 27cm, £18.50 each; earthenware ‘Marbled Blue Plates’, 22cm, £45 each; and ‘Green Scalloped Bowl’, £91; both by James Burnett-Stuart; all from Tinsmiths. Marbled Christmas crackers, £40 for six, from Katie Leamon. ‘Globe’ aluminium candlesticks, from £32 each, from Broste Copenhagen. ‘Tapered Candles’ (natural, gold), £27 for set of 12, from Sophie Conran. Metal oak leaves (autumnal, polished gold), parts from ‘Oak Tree’ chandelier, from £10,236, from Cox London. ‘Amethyst Glass Decanter with 12 Glasses’, by Archivio Lante, £1,200, from Rose Uniacke. Hand-painted linen napkins (blue), £30 a pair, from Designers Guild. ‘The Eye’ rattan placemats, €170 for 4, from Atelier Vime
114 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
THIS PAGE WALLS ‘Sjoberg’ hand-painted paper-backed hessian wallcovering, 90cm wide, £320 a metre, from Mathew Bray & Mathew Collins. Paper garlands, £14 for a 10-metre kit, from The Shop Floor Project. FURNITURE Seventies gilded metal Martini table, £575, from Brownrigg. ACCESSORIES ‘Stars’ crystal glass, £69.50 for six, from Tinsmiths. Metal oak leaves (autumnal), parts from ‘Oak Tree’ chandelier, from £10,236, from Cox London. OPPOSITE WALLS ‘Chambalon’ wallpaper (mercury/platinum), by Zoffany, 140cm wide, £129 a metre, from Style Library. Paper snowflakes, from £6.50 each, from Broste Copenhagen. FLOOR Iranian wool and cotton flatweave rug, 260 x 350cm, £3,500, from Robert Stephenson. FURNITURE ‘Regency’ ebonized wood settee, £10,500, from Max Rollitt; covered in ‘Glacis’ (mango chutney), by Rose Tarlow, linen, £224 a metre, at Tissus d’Hélène. ‘Low Oval’ oak coffee table, £2,370, from Rose Uniacke. ‘Whitby’ wood chairs (gustavian grey), by Kit Kemp, £1,500 each, from Shop Firmdale; backs covered in ‘Zig Zag Stripe’ (azure/kingfisher), cotton, £174 a metre, from Penny Morrison; seats in ‘Chiltern’ (016), linen, £110 a metre, from Fermoie; trimmed in ‘Seychelles Chevron Gimp’ (leaf), cotton, £21 a metre, from Samuel & Sons. ACCESSORIES ‘Angel’ ceramic vases (white), from £40, from Karin Hossack. Green glass mini-baubles (on holly branch), £29 for set of 12; striped clear glass baubles, £15 each; all from The Conran Shop. Clear glass bauble with gold engraving (on table), £6, from Petersham Nurseries. ‘Flower’ terracotta vases (on table), by John Derian for Astier de Villatte, from £325, from Designers Guild. Eighteenth-century storm glass tealights, £1,200 for a pair, from Rose Uniacke. ‘Leaf’ brass garland, by Malin Appelgren, £355; cotton hand puppets, by Wild Folk, £22 each; with wooden stands, £12 each; all from The Shop Floor Project. Eight-foot Nordmann fir tree, £59.99, from Kingswood Christmas Trees. Tree decorations, from £3.90 each, from Gisela Graham. LED fairy lights, £25 for 30 metres, from Lights4fun. Wrapping paper, hand painted by stylist. Handmade wrapping paper (indira ink blue), £6 for a 75 x 55cm sheet, from Bungalow. Metallic satin and grosgrain ribbons, from £2 for 3 metres, from Paperchase 116 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
THIS PAGE WALLS ‘Chambalon’ wallpaper (mercury/platinum), by Zoffany, 140cm wide, £129 a metre, from Style Library. Hand-cut leather and organdie cotton ‘Cut-out Leather Leaf Panel’, £1,250, by Lora Avedian. ACCESSORIES Frosted Murano glass vase, £2,900, from Petersham Nurseries. ‘Leaf’ hand-beaten brass garland, by Malin Appelgren, £355, from The Shop Floor Project. OPPOSITE WALLS ‘09C04’ paint, £43.50 for 2.5 litres matt emulsion, from Little Greene. Sixties Swedish wool tapestry panels, by Amie Pern, £3,450 for set of four, from Robert Stephenson. FURNITURE ‘Campaign’ brass bed, £12,000 for a king size, from Max Rollitt. Bed curtains in ‘Sheer Linen’ (white), £32 a metre, from Volga Linen. Headboard in ‘Imogen’ (red desert), lambswool/silk, £136 a metre, from George Spencer Designs. Seventies brass and wood bedside table, by Luciano Frigerio di Desio, £1,200 a pair, from Brownrigg. ACCESSORIES Bespoke foliage garland, £300 a metre, from Pulbrook & Gould. Cushions: linen ‘Brera Lino’ (ochre), £60; and ‘Milazzo’ (alabaster), £49; both from Designers Guild. Hand-painted linen and suede ‘Yamanami’ (green), by Minä Perhonen, £105; cotton ‘Corduroy’, by Ferm Living, £49; and wool and velvet ‘Eclectic’ (caramel), by Hay, £75; and embroidered cotton throw, by Khadi & Co, £369; all from Couverture & The Garbstore. Bedcover and bolster in ‘Amadea’ (pumpernickel), wool, £136 a metre, from George Spencer Designs. Glass ‘Roman Flute Short Vase’, £29, from Tinsmiths. Fifties rope and glass table lamp, by Audoux-Minet, £1,800, from Atelier Vime. Handmade wrapping paper (indira ink blue) , £6 for a 75 x 55cm sheet, from Bungalow. All other wrapping paper, hand painted by stylist. Metallic satin and grosgrain ribbons, from £2 for 3 metres, from Paperchase. Paper snowflake, £6.50, from Broste Copenhagen. ‘Bear on Wheels Replica 1904’, £275, from Steiff. For suppliers’ details, see Stockists page 첸 118 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
THIS PAGE The War Elephant sculpture at Bomarzo shows an elephant carrying a castle, a popular motif in Medieval and Renaissance art to symbolise both strength and restraint. OPPOSITE The woodland garden’s most iconic sculpture, the Mouth of Hell, bears the inscription ‘Ogni Pensiero Vola’ (‘All Reason Departs’) – echoing a similar idea in Dante’s Inferno
Myths and monsters Below the hilltop village of Bomarzo in Lazio, north of Rome, is a woodland garden filled with unusual, arresting and sometimes grotesque statues carved out of volcanic rock for an eccentric sixteenth-century duke TEXT CLARE FOSTER | PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 121
LEFT The village of Bomarzo. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Theatre. The Leaning House, built with tilted foundations on rock. Neptune. Obelisks with sculpted heads in the Theatre. The Giant Turtle. A waterfall in a woodland glade. The Dragon. Ceres, the Roman goddess of fertility. A sculpture of Proteus, son of Neptune, known as the Mask of Madness (centre)
S
A series of bizarre statues carved out of huge chunks of volcanic rock takes visitors on a philosophical journey through the wooded valley
uspend your disbelief when you visit Bomarzo and you will be rewarded with surprises around every corner. Unlike other Renaissance Italian villa gardens with their symmetrical proportions, immaculate hedges and classical statuary, the Sacro Bosco – also known as Il Parco dei Mostri – is an enigma. Created over a period of 30 years from the early 1550s, it is the strange legacy of an eccentric duke called Pier Francesco Orsini, known by the nickname Vicino, who really threw himself into the making of this extraordinary place after the death of his wife in the late 1550s. The fabric of his garden was a series of bizarre statues carved out of huge chunks of volcanic rock – grotesque beasts and mythical creatures that were designed to shock rather than please the eye, taking visitors on a philosophical journey through the woodland valley beneath his hilltop castle. Vicino Orsini was a charismatic patron of the arts and had a distinguished military career before marrying the beautiful noblewoman Giulia Farnese in 1544 (not to be confused with her relative of the same name who was the mistress of Pope Alexander VI). Head-over-heels in love, he devised a project for a garden and landscape unlike any other, employing the esteemed architect and landscaper Pirro Ligorio, who had also designed the fountains at Villa d’Este near Rome, to help execute his plan. But in 1553, Vicino was captured in battle and held prisoner in Germany for three years, and soon afterwards his wife died. Undoubtedly, both these traumas had a very profound effect on the duke and the subsequent development of his garden. He surrounded himself with artists and writers and turned to Epicureanism, shunning any other form of religion. From the depths of his grief, the garden started to take shape. The layout seems random, but this is because each sculpture was carved from an
122 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
existing, unmovable piece of rock. How each work of art evolved, nobody knows. Perhaps each rock had a shape or character that suggested something to Vicino’s fertile imagination, turning each into a different fantastical creature, from the benign giant turtle and laughing dragon to the terrifying Mouth of Hell, whose black hole of a mouth remains open in an eternal scream under the inscription that can be translated as ‘All Reason Departs’. Many have tried to extract meaning from the garden as a whole, but there seems to be no overall narrative and the concept remains ambiguous, which is presumably what Vicino intended. At the entrance to the garden, two sphinxes bear a Latin inscription that translates as: ‘You who enter this place, observe it piece by piece and tell me afterwards whether so many marvels were created for deception or purely art.’ Vicino was playing with people, pushing boundaries and challenging artistic values and human senses. Undoubtedly, the creation of the garden was a kind of therapy for him, but it was also an intellectual conceit encompassing all the arts. Literary parallels can be drawn with Dante’s Divine Comedy, in which the protagonists move through a varying landscape that changes with the state of the author’s soul. In order to understand the joys of Paradise, they must also experience the depths of Hell and, in a similar way, visitors to the Sacro Bosco are exposed to a sequence of different images, from the horrors of hell to the beauty of Ceres and Venus. Another literary inf luence may have been Francesco Colonna’s Hypnerotomachia Poliphili, an illustrated allegory telling the story of a man who passes through a terrifying wood, before falling asleep and experiencing a bucolic dream-land of various idealised garden landscapes. For 30 years, Vicino continued to develop the garden, noting in his diary in 1579: ‘I can find relief only in my beloved forest, and I bless the money I have spent and still spend on this magical area.’ Perhaps unsurprisingly, given its highly personal and at times uncomfortable nature, the garden was abandoned by his family after his death in 1583, and it remained overgrown and forgotten for over 350 years. In 1938, public interest in Bomarzo was rekindled after a visit by the surrealist artist Salvador Dalí, who made a short film there. His 1946 painting, The Temptation of St Anthony, is thought to be inspired by the sculpture of an elephant at Bomarzo. Vicino, one feels, would have been delighted at such attention from a kindred spirit. Following Dalí’s visit, the garden was brought back to life and opened to the public in the Fifties. Today, covered with a soft patina of moss and lichen, Vicino’s 450-year-old sculptures remain remarkably well preserved in their woodland setting, ready to be discovered by any who dare enter 첸 Il Parco dei Mostri di Bomarzo is open 8.30am daily, closing at 7pm in summer and sunset in winter, admission €10; bomarzo.net
Trees series | Par t 3
Cutting edge In the final part of her series, CLARE FOSTER considers different ways of pruning to create ornamental shapes, and the best shrubs and trees for this treatment PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY
THIS PAGE Prunus lusitanica in front of a row of Osmanthus x burkwoodii, with Tsuga canadensis in the background. OPPOSITE Taxus baccata pruned into various shapes, including tiered ‘wedding cakes’
124 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 125
T
and formal spheres, obelisks and lollipops are being replaced by opiary – the art of clipping shrubs or more organic forms: cloud-pruned hedges and loosely clipped trees into architectural shapes – is trees sculpted into shapes inspired by nature and the landscape. a form of gardening that will never ‘Each plant or tree has its own character,’ says Jake. ‘I particugo out of fashion. Nor is it a new larly enjoy experimenting with different plants and reacting to fad. Gardeners have been doing it at their character – their leaf size and shape, the way they grow.’ least since Roman times, when the So instead of buying ready-clipped evergreen balls next time, first written records appear in manchoose cheaper unclipped plants and start pruning them youruscripts by Pliny the Younger, who self into more organic, irregular shapes. If you have an existing, described box hedges cut into shapes unruly small tree or shrub, get your shears out and start gently and elaborate animal topiary at his shaping it, bit by bit, into a form that makes you smile. And, Tuscan villa. It reached its heyday in finally, be open to a bit of experimentation. Clip azaleas into seventeenth-century Europe and is seen in its most ornate form cushions in the Japanese way, or sarcococca into domes. And for at Louis XIV’s Versailles, where mile upon mile of clipped hedges a good low-maintenance alternative, use a small-leaved hebe and elaborate box parterres make this one of the most highsuch as H. rakaiensis or H. pinguifolia maintenance gardens in the world. ‘Sutherlandii’, which keeps a tight In Britain, the two most common J a k e H o b s o n ’ s t o p shape with very little clipping. plants to be topiarised are yew (Taxus baccata) and box (Buxus semperfive topiary plants virens). People often do not think B OX B L I G H T A N D beyond these evergreen stalwarts, OTHER DISEASES P H I L LY R E A L AT I F O L I A but there are more trees and shrubs, Box blight, Cylindrocladium buxicola, Fantastic in every way, with rich foliage that looks both evergreen and deciduous, that is a fungal disease affecting the leaves good even on a dull winter’s day. It clips well and if can be sculpted into shape. It is worth and stems of box plants. Symptoms left alone turns into a beautiful sculptural little tree. seeking out alternatives, particularly include unsightly brown patches and L AU R U S N O B I L I S ( B AY ) for box, which is being attacked from die-back. It can spread quickly from Great for simple, larger-scale shapes, this is all sides by caterpillars and blight. plant to plant, especially in humid readily available and easy to grow. The characteristics of a good tradior wet conditions, so if you notice it, tional topiary plant are smallish remove and destroy the plant and QU E R C U S I L E X ( H O L M OA K ) evergreen leaves and a bushy habit take immediate steps to avoid it Ideal for windy spots and even coastal gardens, that can be clipped and cajoled into spreading. Be especially careful as it is so tough. Clips and shapes really well. shape to provide year-round structure. when clipping, dipping shears in a L I G U S T R U M OVA L I F O L I U M ( P R I V E T ) Alternatives to box include yew, diluted bleach fluid to sterilize them Cheap and quick to grow, it has bright green foliage which can be clipped tightly to keep between plants. Products such as that clips well. Fully evergreen in milder gardens. the size down, Ilex crenata, Euonymus fungicidal spray and a nutrient-rich japonicus ‘Jean Hugues’ and Lonicera natural tonic and fertilizer called E L A E AG N U S U M B E L L AT A ( O L E A S T E R ) nitida, all of which have a compact Topbuxus Health-Mix can help. Fantastic for shaping, this has soft green foliage habit and glossy dark-green leaves. The caterpillars of the box tree and beautifully scented early-summer flowers. Larger topiary forms can be created moth, Cydalima perspectalis, can be In winter, the fine branch structure looks good. from a range of shrubs, including equally destructive. Native to East privet, osmanthus and phillyrea. Asia, the moth is a relatively new Maintaining topiary Deciduous topiary is increasingly alien import that is spreading swiftly popular, with hornbeam and beech through Europe. It is very prevalent In Britain, box plants were traditionally cut on top of the list. They keep their leaves in London and has begun to spread to Derby Day at the beginning of June, apparently for longer in winter than most decidthe Home Counties and South Coast. because gardeners knew that their employers would uous trees, and the bare branches are The moth lays its eggs in white silky be away at the races. As with all gardening, timings intensely beautiful, too, especially webbing within the bush; when the must be adapted depending on weather and season when backlit by a low winter sun. tiny green caterpillars emerge, they but, as a general rule, all evergreen topiary and In terms of shape – let your imagican defoliate a plant in days. The only hedges will benefit from two cuts a year – one in nation run away with you. From solution is to be vigilant. Pre-empt late May or early June, and the other in September minimalist cubes to intricate curlimatters by putting up sticky phero– although one cut a year can be sufficient for cues, there is a place for some sort of mone traps to get the moths before larger topiary. Avoid pruning in the middle of topiary in every garden. In Britain, they get to your plants and check a drought, in very wet weather or if the plant is we are moving away from traditional plants frequently for webs. If you find stressed, in which case leaving it until the end of themes to explore other influences. caterpillars, spray with an insecticide the summer is best. For large topiary specimens, Jake Hobson is a specialist in the such as Bayer Provado Ultimate Bug you can use hedge cutters, but a sharp pair Japanese method of pruning, known Killer. The European Boxwood & of shears or even secateurs for the most as niwaki, and is at the forefront of a Topiary Society website (ebts.org) intricate work is ideal for cloud-pruned and relaxed style of topiary that is sweephas a useful map showing the spread smaller topiary pieces. Jake Hobson sells ing Britain. Traditional parterres of the box tree moth in the UK 첸 Japanese hand shears from his website, niwaki.com. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Cloud-pruned Taxus baccata. In winter, the bare branches of deciduous hornbeam stand out against evergreen T. baccata. Large T. baccata cubes. T. baccata cubes and lollipops on standards. Buxus sempervirens domes. T. baccata pruned into organic shapes, and more formal pyramids and cubes. A cloud-pruned Tsuga canadensis (centre)
126 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 127
PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN AT SOLITAIR NURSERY IN BELGIUM (SOLITAIR.BE)
Vibrant poppies, irises and lupins in rich reds, pinks and purples stand out against zingy lime-green euphorbias in a striking scheme that transitions seamlessly into glorious wildflower meadows
128 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
Blu r r i ng th e bo u nd arie s
With painterly plantings that merge into naturalistic meadows and blend with the countryside beyond, Jane Brockbank has created a colourful garden that flows harmoniously down a Chilterns hillside TEXT ANNIE GATTI | PHOTOGRAPHS MARIANNE MAJERUS
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 129
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT An oak guest cabin overlooks the woodland part of the garden. The brickedged steps leading to it are softened by erigeron, Acaena microphylla and thyme. Bearded Iris ‘Quechee’ adds dramatic colour. Naturalistic plantings were created by sowing areas with a native chalkland meadow mix that includes ox-eye daisies. Rosa ‘Scharlachglut’ thrives beside a bespoke rusted steel gate
FROM LEFT A steep grassy path edged with billowing ox-eye daisies descends from the house to the rusted steel gate (opposite) at the bottom corner of the garden. The distinctive oriental poppy ‘Harlem’ has large, double flowers with ruffled petals in a striking burgundy pink
I
t is always a challenge for a designer faced with a property that has a commanding view across beautiful countryside. So it was for Jane Brockbank when she was brought in at the beginning of a rebuild on a steeply sloping site in the Chilterns. ‘We didn’t want the garden to fight with its surroundings,’ she explains. The original house had been hemmed in on three sides by grassy mounds. To the east, the land sloped up to woodland planting, to the north it dropped down a grassy slope planted with a few pockets of roses to a beech hedge which extends to the western boundary. The new house was to have full-length windows to maximize the views and the owners asked Jane to open up the garden and make a stronger connection with the chalk landscape. Jane took her cue for the design of this 1.2-acre garden from what she calls ‘the lovely, humpy, bumpy contours’ of the surrounding countryside, and started in on the boundary hedge, boldly cutting into its square clipped formality to create a cloud-pruned effect that mirrors the rolling hills. Responding to the owners’ request for more seating areas, she extended the existing strips of hard landscaping to make three informally shaped York-stone and gravel terraces, each one facing a different aspect. She contoured the surrounding area to give more depth and interest, and there are now three grades of grass: close-mown turf near the house; areas with wildflowers, such as clover and bird’s foot trefoil, which are allowed to grow a bit longer; and swathes of tall grasses that were sown with a native chalkland meadow mix. These sparkle with oxeye daisies in early summer, followed by pinpricks of colour from scabious, lady’s bedstraw, campanula, yarrow and bladderwort. The terrace on the eastern side of the house, adjoining the kitchen, is the ideal spot for breakfasting and this is where Jane made her boldest intervention, cutting into the land to create three wide terraced borders, edged with the same red brick used for the house. ‘This was the obvious place to have the all-singing, all-dancing planting the owners wanted,’ she explains. Jane had previously designed a shady London garden for the couple, who both work in textiles, and was excited to be able to give them the hits of colour here that they delight in.
This exuberant mix of perennials and bulbs is the f irst thing seen as you descend the steps from the driveway. Jane’s careful selection of species echoes the naturalistic meadows, creating a comfortable transition from this more cultivated area to the rest of the garden. Key plants, such as Euphorbia seguieriana subsp. niciciana and taller E. oblongata, Iris ‘Sable’ and I. ‘Quechee’, Anthemis ‘Susanna Mitchell’, Crocosmia ‘George Davison’ and C. ‘Babylon’, Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’ and Knautia macedonica, are used to create a rhythm across the borders. Strong, hot colour waves start with the lime greens of the euphorbias and deep maroons and purples of the irises and ‘Masterpiece’ lupins, and continue with the rich reds and pinks of Papaver orientale ‘Beauty of Livermere’ and P. ‘Harlem’, and vibrant scarlet Geum ‘Mrs J. Bradshaw’. The midsummer punch is from Echinacea purpurea ‘Rubinglow’, Penstemon ‘Garnet’ and steely blue eryngiums, followed by the crocosmias, asters and achilleas. Brick-edged steps, softened by pockets of hummock-forming plants, separate the terraced borders from the meadow planting and lead up to an oak guest cabin that overlooks the woodland part of the garden. The meadow areas are cut once a year, usually in August, once the wildflowers have set seed. Inevitably, these appear in the borders – some are allowed to stay, including red campion, which adds a splash of vibrant pink in June, but most are edited out by Jane’s maintenance team. Where gaps appear – due to ongoing battles with deer and rabbits – the owners make their own additions with favourites such as roses and lilies. Jane is delighted with the evolving garden 첸 Jane Brockbank: janebrockbank.com HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 131
THE PERFECT CHRISTMAS GIFT 9 FREE GIFT, RRP £30 * 9 12 PRINT EDITIONS 9 12 DIGITAL EDITIONS ON APPLE & ANDROID DEVICES
ORDER NOW AND GET INSTANT ACCESS TO DIGITAL EDITIONS
BAYLIS & HARDING MIDNIGHT FIG & POMEGRANATE REED DIFFUSER AND CANDLE SET, RRP £30*
Plus
The ideal present – or treat for yourself – this festive season is Baylis & Harding’s Midnight Fig & Pomegranate luxury diffuser set and a berry red gift box with six scented votive candles. Baylis & Harding’s Midnight Fig & Pomegranate is a fabulously fruity fragrance, with rich, sumptuous fig highlighted by refreshing pomegranate and enveloped with the aroma of dark fruits and berries. Create atmospheric settings for a magical Christmas with this home fragrance set (RRP £30). For more information, visit baylisandharding.com.
9 FREE TICKETS TO THE HOUSE & GARDEN FAIRS 9 FREE GUIDES & SUPPLEMENTS 9 EXCLUSIVE INVITATIONS TO FANTASTIC READER EVENTS
CALL 0844-848 5202 (REF: CHG17793) or visit magazineboutique.co.uk/house&garden/CHG17793. Alternatively, complete the coupon (or simply photocopy) and return in a plain envelope to House & Garden, The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, FREEPOST RTLA-HGBX-UYLY, Leicestershire LE16 7BR (no stamp required). YOUR DETAILS
앮 £38 FOR 12 ISSUES, PLUS FREE GIFT*
With your email address, we can manage your subscription and update you on services. Also, as a House & Garden subscriber, you will automatically join our reader panel and be notified of exclusive invitations, discounts and special offers from House & Garden or Condé Nast, publishers of House & Garden. If you DO NOT want to receive these, please tick this box 쏔. If you WANT to receive special offers and promotions from our partners, please tick this box 쏔
Please tick your preferred payment method 앮 Cheque payable to House & Garden
Email:
앮 Charge my VISA / MASTERCARD / AMEX / MAESTRO
Name:
Card number: (MAESTRO ONLY) Issue no:
Address: Postcode: Telephone:
Mobile:
Start date:
Expiry:
Signature:
RECIPIENT DETAILS Mrs/Ms/Miss/Mr Initials:
Date:
Surname:
Postcode:
*This offer is limited to subscribers at UK addresses only until 07/12/2018 and is subject to availability. The free gift will be sent to the donor. Please allow up to 28 days for delivery. You can cancel at any time and receive a full refund on any issues yet to be mailed. Subscriptions will begin with the first available issue. A full-rate 12-month subscription to House & Garden currently costs £58.80. Please tick this box if you DO NOT wish to receive direct mail from The Condé Nast Publications Ltd 쏔 or other reputable companies 쏔. For privacy policy and permission details, please visit condenast.co.uk/privacy.
Mobile:
PHOTOCOPY OR CUT OUT THIS FORM AND SEND TO: HOUSE & GARDEN SUBSCRIPTIONS DEPT, FREEPOST RTLA-HGBX-UYLY, LEICESTERSHIRE LE16 7BR. REF CHG17793
Address:
Telephone:
FOR EXCLUSIVE US OFFERS visit magazineboutique.co.uk/house&garden/4HG16272 or call 888-737-9456 (ref: 4HG16272) FOR EXCLUSIVE INTERNATIONAL OFFERS email houseandgarden@subscription.co.uk or call 00-44-1858 438815 132 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
F O O D & T R AV E L R E C I P E S | T A S T E N O T E S | L O I R E | F R E N C H A L P S | AU S T R I A
The roast of Christmas past Chef and restaurateur Sally Clarke suggests recipes to create a traditional feast based around a roasted goose, as an alternative to turkey. ‘Cooking for friends or family at Christmas need not be daunting,’ says Sally. ‘Before you embark on a menu, take a few moments to jot down the timing of each task and the order in which they will be done. This helps to focus your thoughts and minimise stress.’ All recipes serve 6 PHOTOGRAPHS JOHN LAURIE | FOOD STYLING CLAIRE PTAK | PROP STYLING TABITHA HAWKINS
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 133
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Winter slaw with pomegranate and pumpkin seeds; onion, apple and pecan stuing; gravy; roasted goose; and roasted potatoes (see recipes overleaf)
134 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
FOOD & TRAVEL | RECIPES
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 135
FOOD & TRAVEL | RECIPES R OA S T E D G O O S E W I T H C R A B A P P L E J E L LY G L A Z E If possible, start to prepare this at least 2 days beforehand, so that you have time to produce the goose fat and stock for the accompaniments. X 5.5–6kg goose,
X Few sprigs fresh
including giblets X 50g butter X 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped X 1 carrot, peeled and chopped X 1 stick celery, chopped X 3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed X 25g plain flour
rosemary, thyme and sage (at least 2 of these) X 600ml chicken or beef stock X 1 glass (about 100ml) red wine X 2 oranges, juice and zest X 1tbsp crab apple or redcurrant jelly
1 Trim the excess fat and the ‘flap’ from the bird, remove the giblets from the cavity and trim the wing tips away, reserving all these items. 2 Rinse the neck, heart, gizzard and liver in cool water, then drain well. Remove the heart and liver, trim away any discoloured parts and chop them into small dice. Reserve in a bowl in the fridge for the stuffing later. 3 Place the neck, wing tips and gizzard in a large, heavy saucepan with the butter and cook over a high heat until sealed on all sides and beginning to turn golden brown. 4 Add the chopped vegetables, garlic, flour and herbs, and continue to cook until the vegetables start to colour. 5 Add the stock, red wine and orange juice and zest, and bring to a boil, skimming away any impurities that rise to the surface. Simmer for 1 hour until flavourful. Strain (saving the stock for the gravy), discard the debris and allow to cool. 6 In the meantime, place the excess goose fat and flap in a small pan with a splash of water and bring it to a simmer. Continue to cook as the fat renders down. This will result in the fat and some of the skin liquidizing, with a small amount of solid material left in the pan. Strain, discard the debris and allow the fat to cool. At this point, you can heat the oven to 220°C/fan oven 200°C/mark 7 and start with the potatoes (see recipe right). 7 Season the goose inside and out with plenty of salt and pepper. Place the bird on a wire rack, then place over a roasting tin. Roast on the middle shelf for 20 minutes. Turn the heat down to 180°C/fan oven 160°C/mark 4 and then continue to roast for 2–21/2 hours. During this time, the fat from the skin will drip into the roasting pan, so make sure that the bird is positioned squarely over the tin to avoid spillage. 8 About 10 minutes before the end of the cooking time, spread the crab apple jelly or redcurrant jelly over the skin of the goose. 9 To test the bird, pierce the leg with a skewer – if the juices run clear, the bird is cooked. Remove 136 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
carefully from the oven and place on the serving dish or board. Cover the goose with foil, then a tea towel, tucking in the corners like a blanket to keep it warm. Leave it to rest for up to an hour. 10 Gently pour away all the fat from the pan – this can be kept for roasting the potatoes and root vegetables. Reserve the dark meat juices in the base of the pan for the gravy (see recipe below). 11 To serve the goose, remove the legs with a medium-sized knife. Slice the breast meat from the leg end, moving towards the neck. Place the slices overlapping on a warm serving platter. 12 Slice the meat off the legs or, if easier, simply cut in between the drumsticks and thighs at the ball-and-socket joints and serve them alongside the breast meat. Serve the goose with the stuffing, bread sauce and hot gravy.
R OA S T E D P O TAT O E S X 1kg roasting
X 3 bay leaves
potatoes (such as King Edward, Desiree or Maris Piper), peeled and cut into even golf ball-size pieces
X 100g goose fat
(see roasted goose recipe), or 50g butter with 4tbsp vegetable oil
1 Heat the oven to 220°C/fan oven 200°C/mark 7. Bring the potatoes and bay leaves to a rolling boil in a saucepan of salted water, and cook for 2–3 minutes until the potatoes are beginning to soften around the edges. Drain them well. 2 Cover the base of a roasting pan with the goose fat (or butter and vegetable oil) and place in the oven for 5 minutes. 3 Remove from the oven and add the potatoes, shaking the pan well so that the potatoes are tossed in the fat. Season with salt and pepper, then place on the top shelf of the oven and roast for 20-30 minutes, turning them gently halfway through the cooking time to colour evenly. 4 Remove from the oven (when you turn down the oven temperature for the goose) and set aside. At this stage, they will be half-cooked. 5 While the goose is ‘resting’, turn the oven up to 220°C/fan oven 200°C/mark 7 to cook the stuffing (see recipe below) and finish the potatoes. 6 Check that the potatoes have not stuck to the roasting tray by sliding a palette knife under them. Place back in the oven with the stuffing and roast for 20 minutes until golden and crisp.
ONION, APPLE AND PE CAN STUFFING Stuffing is such a delicious part of the meal. Omit the goose heart and liver for a meat-free version. X75g butter, softened peeled and grated on X 175g fresh large side of grater breadcrumbs X 1 large Bramley (white, sourdough apple, grated on or wholemeal) large side of grater X 1 large onion, X 50g pecans,
walnuts or hazelnuts, roughly chopped X 25g dried cranberries, sour cherries or raisins X 1tsp chopped sage, rosemary or thyme
X 1 orange, zest
finely grated X 1 egg, lightly whisked X Chopped goose heart and liver (see roasted goose recipe left)
1 Prepare a 20cm-square ovenproof dish by smearing about 55g of the softened butter over the base and sides. Set aside the remaining butter. 2 Mix the other stuffing ingredients together in a large bowl, adding the egg last with the reserved chopped goose liver. Season to taste with salt and pepper and press the mixture gently, but firmly, into the dish. Dot the remaining butter over the top and leave to one side. This may be prepared up to 2 days in advance and stored in the fridge. 3 Place the stuffing in the oven (when the potatoes go back in) and bake for up to 20 minutes, until it is crisp on the outside and a little moist inside. 4 Serve the stuffing in the oven dish, to be scooped at the table. Alternatively, remove it from the dish using a palette knife and cut into 6–8 squares, to be served alongside the carved meat.
B R E A D S AU C E X 550ml milk
X 4 bay leaves
X 1 medium onion,
X Small handful black
peeled and cut in half peppercorns lengthways through X 100g fresh white the root, each half breadcrumbs studded with 6 cloves X 50g butter 1 Pour the milk into a saucepan and add the studded onion, bay leaves and peppercorns. Warm gently for 20 minutes, until the onion has started to soften. Remove from the heat. 2 Place the breadcrumbs in a second saucepan and strain over the milk. Stir over a medium-high heat for 7-10 minutes until the sauce thickens. 3 Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the butter and a little salt. Taste for seasoning and pour into a serving dish. Cover tightly and keep warm.
G R AV Y X 1tbsp plain flour
X Splash of port
X 1tbsp crab apple or
or orange juice (optional)
redcurrant jelly
1 Place the pan with the dark meat juices (reserved from the roasted goose) over a medium heat and sprinkle with the flour. Using a wire whisk, scrape the flour into the juices, then pour in 500ml of the stock (see Step 5 of the roasted goose recipe), whisking constantly as it comes to a simmer. 2 Add the jelly, season to taste and cook for 5-6 minutes, or until the gravy reaches your desired consistency. Taste for seasoning, adding a little port or orange juice if you wish. Strain into a clean pot, cover and set aside. 3 Just before serving, skim off any fat from the surface, then reheat the gravy to a rolling boil. 컄
Onion, apple and pecan stuing with roasted potatoes (see recipes opposite)
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 137
FOOD & TRAVEL | RECIPES M A R Z I PA N A N D M I N C E M E AT PA S T I E S X 2 eggs, whites only
almonds X 250g icing sugar, plus extra for rolling and dusting
X 2tsp lemon juice X 2 drops bitter
almond essence X 200g mincemeat
1 To make the marzipan, place the almonds and icing sugar in a food processor or mixing bowl and mix together until well blended. Add the egg whites, lemon juice and almond essence, and mix until a dry-ish ball is formed. 2 Remove the marzipan from the bowl and knead gently until it forms a smooth ball, adding a little water or icing sugar if it seems too dry or too wet. Wrap with clingfilm and chill for a few hours. 3 Unwrap the ball of marzipan, cut it in half and roll out one half like pastry on a surface dusted with icing sugar. If it is difficult to handle, simply gather the pieces together and start rolling again. 4 Once it is around 5mm thick, cut into 8cm discs. Repeat with the other half of the marzipan. Heat the oven to 180°C/fan oven 160°C/mark 4. 5 Onto each disc, place 1/2tsp mincemeat. With your finger, brush the rim with cold water. 6 Gather the marzipan up into a Cornish pasty shape, pressing it over the mincemeat. Press the edges together and crimp them decoratively. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Repeat with the remaining discs. 7 Using a small sieve, dust a little icing sugar over the pasties. Bake for 8–10 minutes until golden. 8 Serve the pasties warm or at room temperature, dusted with more icing sugar. They are best with vanilla ice cream and Madeira, port or Champagne.
Winter slaw with pomegranate and pumpkin seeds (see recipe below)
W I N T E R S L AW W I T H P OM E G R A NAT E A N D P U M P K I N S E E D S You can prepare the first 5 vegetables for this robust salad and refrigerate, covered, for up to 48 hours. For the slaw 1 X /2 small red cabbage, cut in half, white centre removed X 1 large head fennel X 2 sticks celery X 1 medium parsnip,
X 250g ground
washed and peeled X Small handful curly kale, stalks removed X 2 apples (such as Russet or Cox) X 1 lemon, juiced X Small handful dried
1 Slice the cabbage very finely and place in a bowl. 2 Cut the fennel in half from the root end to the leaf, lay cut side down and slice as thinly as possible lengthwise. Slice the celery finely, slightly on the angle. Cut the parsnip into ribbons with a peeler, then slice the kale as finely as possible. Grate the apples on the wide side of the grater. 3 Place these ingredients in a bowl with the cabbage and lemon juice, mixing the salad until well amalgamated. Season with salt and pepper, then add the cranberries and pumpkin seeds. 138 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
cranberries or sultanas For the dressing X 1tbsp pumpkin seeds X 1tsp Dijon mustard X 1 pomegranate X 1tsp honey X 1 large bunch X 4tbsp good-quality watercress, washed, olive oil large stems removed X 1tbsp sour or double cream and gently spun dry 4 Whisk the dressing ingredients together until smooth. Pour over the salad and mix well. 5 Cut the pomegranate in half around the equator, then hold one half over a bowl. Knock the shell with a rolling pin and the seeds will drop out. Remove the white membrane and keep the juices with the seeds in a small bowl. Repeat with the other half. 6 Leave the salad covered in the fridge (for up to 24 hours), and then toss again and scoop into a serving bowl. Garnish with the watercress and scatter the pomegranate seeds and juice on top.
WINE NOTES by Anne Tupker, Master of Wine For a festive start, treat your guests to BillecartSalmon Brut Réserve, an elegant non-vintage Champagne with lively notes of apples and pears (£43.95; leaandsandeman.com). My choice to offset the richness of the goose is Château Chasse-Spleen 2001: a full-bodied claret from Moulis in the Haut Médoc. A blend of 70 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon with 25 per cent Merlot and five per cent Petit Verdot, it offers ripe, dark fruit flavours, supple tannins and fresh acidity (£47; bbr.com). For the finale, I suggest a scrumptious Loire sweetie – the Coteaux du Layon Rablay 1990 from Château la Tomaze. With crisp acidity plus dried fruit and honey flavours, it is the perfect foil for the mincemeat pasties (£38; yapp.co.uk) 첸
Marzipan and mincemeat pasties (see recipe opposite)
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 139
Taste Notes BLANCHE VAUGHAN shares her Christmas news, reviews and tips for cooks and food lovers
Sally Clarke’s D O N ’ T PA N I C CHRISTMAS TIPS Expert advice from the chef patron of Clarke’s Restaurant, whose recipes for a Christmas feast with roast goose, are on the previous pages
1 JAMON A leg of mouthwatering acorn-fed jamón Ibérico de Bellota, preferably on a stand, can sit in a cool place to be carved as needed. A 24-month cured leg weighing 7.5kg costs £385. finefood specialist.co.uk
2 NAPKINS You can never have enough napkins. This is ‘Bernadette’s Falling Flower’ in rust red on white linen, £30, which would look gorgeous on a Christmas table and throughout the year. summerill andbishop.co.uk
3
4
COOK STOVE If price were no object, the ‘Bakeheart’ woodfired stove can be used as an oven and hotplate for cooking, as well as heating a room. Food cooked in this will have the deliciously distinct aromas of wood. It is £2,600. esse.com
CANDLES These colourful ‘Tapered Candles’ by Ester & Erik can be placed in groups on a table for a modern look. Pictured in yellow, neon pink and silver, they cost £14 a pair from The Conran Shop. conranshop.co.uk
WA N T T H E F R I D G E O R F R E E Z E R WORKING AT THEIR BEST?
Defrost the freezer and clean out the fridge by December 20 or 21, removing unnecessary items before the additional Christmas groceries arrive. Make two or three batches of fresh ice, if you have the freezer space to store them. RUN OUT OF FRIDGE SPACE?
The car sitting outside in the pouring rain or snow makes for the perfect extra cool room. Store root vegetables, hard cheeses and citrus fruits in there. This frees up space for the important items to remain in the fridge, such as meats or the bird, Champagne, soft fruits, fish, smoked salmon, cream, crème fraiche and yogurt.
CHRISTMAS PRESENT IDEAS
IS YOUR GOOSE OR TURKEY TOO BIG FOR THE OVEN?
These are the edible and interiors gifts I would love to give or receive
Or are you short of time to cook it on the day? Separate the legs from the body and cut out the backbone to create a crown of breast meat on the bone. Cook the joints laid flat in a roasting tray. The legs will need longer than the breast. L A ST- M I N U T E VEGAN REQUEST?
5
6
7
8
CERAMICS Baileys is an excellent source of French antique finds, such as vintage Poitiers pottery, which I collect; unique pieces cost from £42. It also sells French linen tea towels, from £18. baileyshome.com
CREPE PAN De Buyer’s ‘Mineral B Element Crêpe Pan’ can be used to make the laciest crêpes, perfect omelettes and silky fried eggs. The cast iron will improve with age. A 24cm pan costs £24. boroughkitchen.com
BLUE CHEESE Cashel Blue, a mellow, creamy blue cow’smilk cheese from Tipperary, makes a change from Stilton. A 1.5kg whole Cashel Blue costs £34.50 at Paxton & Whitfield. paxton andwhitfield.co.uk
PANETTONE This airy, Italian yeasted fruitcake is good at teatime, but you can also use it to make an excellent bread-and-butter pudding. A 1kg panettone costs £18.50 from Sous Chef. souschef.co.uk
140 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
Even in winter, there are vegetables and salads to please any dietary request. Make sure you have one or two grains in the store cupboard – such as quinoa, red rice, black barley or spelt. Vegetables roasted with olive oil, herbs and garlic, sliced then tossed into a cooked grain, along with a squeeze of lemon, a scattering of fresh herbs and a bitter-leaf salad on the side, provides the necessary protein. FORGOTTEN THE PUDDING? OR NOT COOKED IT IN TIME?
Fear not. Who needs vast amounts of sweet things after such a huge meal anyway? Simply serve a lovely selection of clementines, slices of blood orange, dates and a selection of nuts – all perfect for refreshing the palate, too.
FOOD & TRAVEL | NEWS
S M A R T E N T E R TA I N I N G
CHIN CHIN
Creating a bar at home gives an area a focus and allows friends to help themselves while you are cooking. Henry Jeffreys’ new book, The Home Bar (Jacqui Small, £25), explores this idea in full. It has a focus on history and design, plus recipes for a few classic cocktails, including the Manhattan (see below). Also new is Seedlip: The Cocktail Book (Bantam Press, £14.99) from the masters of interesting, non-alcoholic drinks without masses of sugar. It is ideal for moments when alcohol is not what you want, but a delicious drink is.
Apart from a generous range of spirits and mixers, what makes a bar is a selection of beautiful glasses to drink from. These are some of my current favourites
PHOTOGRAPHS: DE BUYER INDUSTRIES; ANDREW CROWLEY; SIMON SMITH/QUARTO. MANHATTAN RECIPE TAKEN FROM THE HOME BAR BY HENRY JEFFREYS
Old Fashioned glasses (named after the cocktail) are great for a drink on the rocks, with plenty of room for ice. Roemer glasses are designed for wine, but can stand in for martini glasses. Above, from left: ‘Old Fashioned Glasses’, £185 for 6; ‘Roemer Glass’, £145 for 6; all from The Wolseley Shop. thewolseley.com/shop
Summerill & Bishop has pretty Italian glasses that, when lined up on a shelf, provide decoration on their own. They can double up as water, cocktail or wine glasses. Pictured above, from left, are the ‘Handblown Small Peony Glass’, £55, which would be excellent for a Manhattan (see the recipe, left); and the ‘Handblown Clear Bumba Glass with Cherry Red Rim’, £38, which is best for a gin and tonic. summerillandbishop.com
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Old Fashioned, Manhattan and Brandy-Julep are among the cocktails featured in The Home Bar
M A K E A M A N H AT TA N As the martini is to gin, so the Manhattan is to whisky, since both are flavoured with vermouth. Americans were drinking whisky before gin, so you could argue that the martini is a gin Manhattan. You can make a Manhattan using half French and half Italian vermouth, or for a drier version, use just French. To make a smoky Manhattan, rinse the glass with a drop or two of Islay whisky first. If made with Scotch whisky, the Manhattan becomes a Rob Roy – named after the Broadway musical based on Walter Scott’s 1817 novel that was all the rage in 1890s New York, when the cocktail was invented.
X 50ml (2 shots) spicy Bourbon X 25ml (1 shot) rye Italian vermouth X Dash of Angostura bitters X Twist of orange zest, to garnish
Stir all the ingredients together, with lots of ice, in your shaker. Strain into a cold martini glass and finish with a twist of orange zest.
For a cocktail shaker and quirky trays for large ice cubes, I go to Borough Kitchen. A ‘Boston Shaker Set UB’ (above) costs £29.50 and a ‘King Cube‘ ice tray £8.50. boroughkitchen.com 첸 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 141
FOOD & TRAVEL | FRANCE
Chateau chic HOUSE & GARDEN TOP 100 INTERIOR DESIGNER DOUGLAS MACKIE SETS OFF ON A SCENIC DRIVE IN THE LOIRE VALLEY
4CORNERS IMAGES/JORDAN BANKS/LUIGI VACCARELLA/FRANCESCO CAROVILLANO; GETTY IMAGES/VLADJ55; SHUTTERSTOCK/KIEV VICTOR; ERIC PIASECKI/OTTO
T
here is no other area of France about which we all have such a preconceived visual picture. The Loire Valley is the land of the improbably romantic chateau, those turreted confections that populate almost every nineteenth-century ballet backdrop. This is France as if invented by Oliver Messel, with the Loire River, the longest and most unspoilt in France, as its great artery. It is years since our last visit, and we were keen to return to old favourites and explore more unfamiliar areas. Our previous trip had begun at the Tank Museum in Saumur, as my historian partner, Julian Jackson, was researching his book The Fall of France. Our agenda now was rather more architectural. The Loire Valley is a relatively easy drive from Paris, where we picked up our hire car from Avis at the Gare du Nord, and headed to our first stop – the perfect midway break – Chartres Cathedral. It was a pleasure seeing the brilliantly coloured windows on a radiant July morning, despite the recent, rather brutal bleaching of the interior. We then drove south towards Blois, a scenic drive past rolling fields of wheat and windmills. The town, pleasingly unsophisticated and a good place to begin a visit to the region, is perched on the banks of the Loire and is dominated by an immense chateau, where the gruesome murder of the Duc de Guise took place in 1588. Like nearby Amboise, Blois was a centre of the French court in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and its leading characters emerge across the region’s chateaux: Francis I, his son Henry II, Henry’s wife Catherine de’ Medici, and his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. They loved to build, and the list of places to visit is daunting. We deviated, however, to meet up with local friends for oysters and a bottle of Sancerre from Blois’ Saturday market. Our late-afternoon destination was the Château de Chambord, the quintessential expression of the hybrid of Medieval and Italian Renaissance styles that characterises Loire Valley architecture. Our bed for the night was at the newly refurbished Relais de Chambord, only five minutes’ walk from the palace. If only every great house had such civilised lodgings close by, with such a good restaurant. We had been flagging in the high temperatures, so the air-conditioned interiors were a welcome relief. Dinner was on the terrace, opposite the chateau, and watching the walls change to a deep rose pink was a magical experience. The hotel arranged a private guide for us the following day, whose passionate knowledge brought the chateau to life, showing us how this incredible edifice became the ultimate symbol of the divine monarchy of Francis I. This is the ideal region to potter round in by car, with not only chateaux to explore but also gardens and towns that, even in July, are surprisingly uncrowded. Chenonceau was a highlight of the following day, its tapestried interiors as delightful as its formal gardens. It is hard to imagine that Catherine de’ Medici controlled France from this picturesque castle. At Cheverny – familiar to Tintin lovers as Captain Haddock’s country house – we admired the panelled interiors and the English-style gardens. The following night was spent near Amboise at the charmingly old-school Château de Pray – a touch of ‘Les Tours de chez Fawlty’ – with a marvellous restaurant. The town is an unexpected delight, directly on the Loire and an ideal base for exploring the region. Leonardo da Vinci’s tomb is in the chapel of the Château d’Amboise, and his house nearby, Château du Close-Lucé, is a further reminder of the artistic importance of this region during the sixteenth century. Our final leg of the journey was to Villandry, which has perhaps France’s greatest garden and is a must-see on any Loire trip. Its beauty seemed to have grown since we had last seen it a decade ago. Heading north, we reached our last stop before returning to Paris – Château du Grand-Lucé. This glorious eighteenth-century house was ours for the night and it is as lyrically beautiful a place as anywhere we have stayed. Our panelled bedroom overlooking the gardens was perfection, and for 24 hours we indulged in the fantasy of chateau ownership. If all goes according to plan, the chateau’s American owner will convert the house from an exclusive-use rental property to a hotel next year. Our return drive to Paris took us to the Proust house and museum in Illiers-Combray. Although we had left much unseen, like a favourite book, we can return to the Loire Valley again and again, and each time discover something new and wonderful.
CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE TOP Medieval Amboise is known for its connections with Leonardo da Vinci, who once lived there. Sixteenth-century Chenonceau. Villandry has arguably France’s greatest garden. With its turrets and towers, Chambord is a ine example of Loire Valley architecture. The formal dining room at Château du Grand-Lucé. The lavish grand salon at Cheverny
Ways and Means Douglas Mackie was loaned a Group F car (a Mercedes-Benz C-Class or similar) by Avis (avis.co.uk), picking it up from and returning it to Gare du Nord in Paris; Group F rental for three days starts at £485. Doubles at the Relais de Chambord (relaisdechambord.com) cost from €165, B&B, and at Château de Pray (chateaudepray.fr) from €139, room only. To stay at Château du Grand-Lucé, visit chateaugrandluce.com 첸
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 143
Welcome to
our Asia Discovering the secret of the perfect Vietnamese pho from a local grower. Perfecting your crane pose in a Tai Chi class in Xiamen. Creating your own work of art in Malaysia’s royal pewter factory. Snorkelling among Japan’s multi-coloured coral reefs in Ishigaki. Welcome to our Asia, lands of mystery and beauty, where modern life is infused with ancient traditions. Welcome to a world of experiences that you’ll always remember, and comfort that you’ll never forget. We can’t wait to show you around.
Asia river cruises from £3,815pp Asia ocean cruises from £4,585pp Call 020 8780 6534 to book or visit vikingcruises.co.uk Prices correct at time of going to print but are subject to availability and change. From prices are per person and based on two people sharing the lowest grade stateroom available on Imperial Jewels of China river cruise, departing on selected dates in October 2019 and Bangkok, Bali and Beyond ocean cruise, departing on selected dates in March 2019. Prices valid until 31 December 2018. Single supplements apply. Please note on selected cruises a visa may be required and is at the passengers own expense. For more information please visit vikingcruises.co.uk/terms-conditions or call us.
FOOD & TRAVEL | FRENCH ALPS
FROM LEFT Les Fermes de Marie is a rustic-chic hotel housed in converted farm buildings. The snowy peaks of Megève. This blink-and-you’ll-miss-it sign points the way to La Ravière restaurant
inside track
MEGEVE
PAUL MASSEY; GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO
PAMELA GOODMAN RECOMMENDS WHERE TO STAY, EAT AND WALK IN THE SMART FRENCH SKI RESORT
R E STAURA N TS
HOTEL
In a town as well heeled as Megève, it is no surprise there are top-notch restaurants to tickle the taste buds of the Michelin inspectors. La Table de l’Alpaga (alpaga.com) has one star; Le 1920 in the Four Seasons Hotel (fourseasons. com) has two; and legendary Flocons de Sel (floconsdesel.com) has the ultimate accolade of three. Step aside from fine dining, however, and there are still plenty of alluring alternatives. A personal favourite is La Ravière (00-33-4 5093 1571), a rustic cottage on the mountainside of Mont d’Arbois, tucked out of sight in woods near the La Croix chairlift. Half the fun is finding it: ski too fast and you will miss the tiny signpost. The food is good – hearty mountain fare (gâteau de pommes de terre is the signature dish), and the restaurant itself little more than one small room with steamed-up windows and a cosy arrangement of tables. The menu is limited, it is cash only and reservations are essential, but do not let that put you off a wonderful experience. For dinner in town, the dark and moody Les Enfants Terribles (hotelmontblanc.com), named after the original Jean Cocteau mural on the wall, attracts a crowd. While I am often wary of seafood in the mountains, in Megève this is the place to dip into a platter of oysters and prawns.
For the Sibuet family, Megève is both home and the starting point for their empire of boutique hotels (they own four in Megève alone), at the heart of which is Les Fermes de Marie (fermes demarie.com). Rustic in name and abundantly rustic-chic in nature, the hotel is a reconstruction of nine dilapidated farm buildings, which were dismantled and reassembled in their current location to look as if they had been there for years. The clientele is predominantly – and refreshingly – French speaking (families and pooches welcome), many of whom are regulars, popping up for the weekend from in or around Geneva, which is only an hour’s drive away. Brits tend to veer more towards Les Fermes’ sister hotels, Lodge Park (lodgepark.com) or Hôtel Mont-Blanc (hotelmontblanc.com), perhaps because they are marginally better located for the village centre and main lift. However, for me, Les Fermes ticks all the boxes – deeply comfortable, perfectly in context within its location, breakfasts like you can only imagine before a day on the slopes, and a proper spa (reserve well in advance) for soothing your aches and pains. Even if you are a non-skier – and many guests are – this is the kind of place in which you would be happy to while away the days.
DON’ T M ISS Megève is something of a two-part ski resort, comprising the main village, concentrated around a picturesque medieval square (complete with an ancient church and priory), and the Domaine du Mont d’Arbois, a large plateau above the village owned by the Rothschilds who, back in the Twenties, put Megève on the map as the glamorous French alternative to St Moritz. A road and a cable car link the two. But so, too, does the mid-nineteenth-century pilgrimage route Le Chemin du Calvaire (or Road to Calvary), a pathway – a little steep in parts – that, with its 15 small and atmospheric chapels and oratories set at intervals along the way, recounts the last journey of Christ from Jerusalem to Golgotha.
Ways and Means Pamela Goodman visited Megève as a guest of Ski Independence (0131-243 8097; ski-i.com, which offers three nights at Les Fermes de Marie hotel from £1,265, B&B, including flights and transfers. Private ski guiding is available through ESF Megève (ski-school-megeve.co.uk) 첸 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 145
The List DIRECTORY 2019 Visit houseandgarden.co.uk/the-list
AN INDISPENSABLE GUIDE FOR ANYBODY WANTING WORK DONE TO THEIR HOME. COMING SOON WITH THE JANUARY 2019 ISSUE
FOOD & TRAVEL | AUSTRIA
specialist holidays
SCHUBERTIADE FESTIVAL IN THE ALPINE REGION OF BREGENZERWALD, TERESA LEVONIAN COLE COMBINES MORNING HIKES WITH EVENING RECITALS AT THE ANNUAL SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVAL DEDICATED TO FRANZ SCHUBERT
T
hey were announced by the mellow clang of bells, handmade and variously pitched. Soon, as I breakfasted on the terrace of the Hotel Sonne Mellau, they appeared: a cavalcade of cows crossing the bridge. For 15 minutes, they ambled along, oblivious to traffic, a bovine essence wafting in their wake. ‘They’re late,’ said our mountain guide, Helga. ‘They should have been up in the high pastures by now.’ I was in the land of dirndls and hairy clogs, where the cow is queen; in a village called Mellau in Austria’s Bregenzerwald, within the embrace of mountains over which Jews sought to escape during the Third Reich. In this quiet village that time forgot, houses are still built from wood, clad in shingles of spruce that shine like fish scales in the light. There are two excellent reasons for coming here: the landscape, through which I would be hiking; and the Schubertiade – a name given, since the nineteenth century, to the celebration of Schubert’s music. This festival, launched in 1976, takes place each June and August in nearby Schwarzenberg and my trip would include seven concerts, four lectures and three (optional) hikes, in five days. Food for both body and soul. We were a disparate tour group of 12 from Australia and the UK, united by a love of music. In the mornings, we walked: through leaf-carpeted forests to waterfalls, the boulder-strewn Argenbach river flowing through a gorge directly into the German Romantic imagination. We took cable cars to alpine meadows, emerald-green grass specked with
the pinks, lilacs, yellows and whites of wild flowers. In May, Helga explained, dairy farmers leave the villages for the middle pastures with their herds, then ascend to the high-altitude farms for the summer. We passed tiny private chapels, wooden barns where cheese linens hung to dry, drank spring water, and gazed at breathtaking views from forested slopes, before stopping for schnapps and local cheese. The Kanisfluh mountain – abode of witches and ibex – loomed omnipresent. Richard Wigmore, our accompanying music lecturer, gave entertaining talks on the concerts we were to attend, then we would be off to picturesque Schwarzenberg, which is associated with the eighteenth-century artist Angelika Kauffmann, after whom the concert hall is named. In its warm acoustics, reminiscent of Snape Maltings at Aldeburgh in Suffolk, we listened to glorious chamber music. Artists ranged from familiar names such as Marc-André Hamelin, who played Schumann’s Fantasie (possibly the most passionate non-verbal love song written, until Wagner came along with his Siegfried Idyll), to revelatory talents – the brilliant young pianist Igor Levit chief among them. The audience listened rapt to a succession of lieder, recitals and string quartets by Mozart, Brahms and more. But Schubert, as one would expect, was the star. The festival culminated in the song cycle Die Schöne Müllerin, sung with reflective pathos by Christoph Prégardien. Such were the concerts providing conversational spice to deliciously convivial dinners, accompanied by generous libations of Grüner Veltliner.
Angelika Kaufmann Hall is surrounded by mountain pastures in the village of Schwarzenberg
Ways and Means Teresa Levonian Cole visited Austria as a guest of cultural tours specialist Martin Randall Travel (020-8742 3355; martinrandall.com). The next ‘Schubertiade: Music & Mountains’ tour, led by Richard Wigmore, will take place on June 23–29, 2019 and costs about £3,780 per person, half-board, based on two sharing, including flights, wine, lectures and all concert tickets 첸 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 147
FOOD & TRAVEL | COMPASS
O n t h e g r a p ev i n e
CAPITAL GAINS EMILY SENIOR IS IMPRESSED BY THE DESIGN DETAILS OF THE BLOOMSBURY HOTEL, WHICH CELEBRATE THE ARTISTIC AND LITERARY ASSOCIATIONS OF THIS QUIET CORNER OF LONDON
Laura Houldsworth’s pick of festive offerings from London hotels
THE LANESBOROUGH In addition to a room at the hotel, the Harvey Nichols Shopping Experience offers a welcome treat from pastry chef Gabriel Le Quang, butler service, breakfast in Michelin-starred Céleste, and a chauffeur-driven trip to the store, with a personal stylist and 20 per cent discount on fashion and accessories. From £775 a night, November 23–January 7; oetkercollection.com
espite its central London location, Bloomsbury still feels a world apart from the crowded tourist traps of Oxford Street or Covent Garden. A more quiet and refined pocket of the city, its Georgian squares were a home and inspiration to Dickens, the Bloomsbury Group, Mary and Percy Bysshe Shelley and George Orwell, among others. Its artistic heritage, interesting shops, fabulous architecture and proximity to some of London’s best universities and museums have helped it retain the discreet buzz and essence of bohemia that were so attractive to its famous inhabitants. Yet it is still possible to sit virtually undisturbed in one of the sylvan squares around Tavistock Place, where Virginia Woolf used to write. What the area had been lacking, however, was a truly stylish place to stay, so thank heavens for The Doyle Collection’s major refurbishment of The Bloomsbury. Dating from 1928, the handsome red-brick Sir Edwin Lutyens building is just a heartbeat from Tottenham Court Road. Ascend the Portland stone front steps and you walk straight into the hotel’s humming new bar, The Coral Room, where designer du jour Martin Brudnizki has installed antique mirrors and huge Murano chandeliers that light up the deep-pink walls and specially commissioned Bloomsbury-inspired art by Luke Edward Hall. The crowd is glamorous, the cocktail list is 10 pages long and there is live jazz every weekend. Guests can choose to eat here or on the equally buzzy Dalloway Terrace, whose striped awnings have made it one of the most Instagrammable spots in London. The menu is sophisticated comfort food – steaks and burgers – accompanied by an extensive wine list. The restaurant is outside; in winter, diners sit under heaters and blankets, and the wine is mulled instead of chilled. Martin also reworked the hotel’s public areas, including the intimate new reception, accessed from the side of the building, which gives the feeling of arriving at a private house rather than a hotel. The 153 rooms, including the 11 suites, were designed by Michaelis Boyd, which has also worked for the Soho House group, and these spaces have a similar feel, furnished with a smart mix of art-decoinspired and mid-century furniture against a backdrop of rich colours and acres of marble and brass. If you are looking for a glamorous hotel in central London, with just the right balance of formality and character, it does not get much better than this. From £242 a night, B&B. doylecollection.com
148 DECEMBER 2018 HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK
THE CONNAUGHT Unwind and ease weary feet after a day of Christmas shopping with the Aman Spa Winter Sole treatment, £170. The restorative two-hour session combines the therapeutic effects of reflexology with a signature foot treatment, a pedicure and mindfulness meditation with an Aman therapist. 020-3147 7305; the-connaught.co.uk/aman-spa
THE DORCHESTER At The Dorchester, a Christmas Carol Afternoon Tea (every weekend from November 17 to December 23) costs £95 and will be accompanied by local children’s choirs. At The Grill (above) the four-course Christmas Eve dinner is £150, while the five-course Christmas Day lunch with wine pairing is £295. All include a glass of Champagne. Boxing Day brunch is £70, with optional free-flowing ‘Hair of the Dog’ for £40. dorchestercollection.com 첸
SIMON BROWN; DAMIAN RUSSELL; DAVID GRIFFEN
D
The Coral Room bar at The Bloomsbury hotel pairs art deco styling with a bohemian atmosphere
STOCKISTS
Merchandise from these companies is featured editorially in this issue. Information is checked at the time of going to press, but House & Garden cannot guarantee that prices will not change or items will be in stock at the time of publication A ABBOTT & BOYD 020-7351 9985; abbottandboyd.co.uk AMARA 0800-587 7645; amara.com ARKET 020-3868 9990; arket.com ARLO & JACOB 0333-220 6700; arloandjacob.com ATELIER VIME ateliervime.com B BLACK BOUGH 01584-877948; blackbough.co.uk BRONTE BY MOON brontebymoon.co.uk BROSTE COPENHAGEN 00-45-3639 0300; brostecopenhagen.com BROWNRIGG 01666-500887; brownrigg-interiors.co.uk BUNGALOW 00-45-2615 4065; bungalow.dk C CARAVANE 020-7486 5233; caravane.fr CARLTON DAVIDSON 020-7795 0905; carltondavidson.co.uk CASAMIDYcasamidy.com THE CONRAN SHOP 0844-848 4000; conranshop.co.uk COSI TABELLINI 029-2002 7918; italian-pewter.co.uk COUVERTURE & THE GARBSTORE 020-7229 2178; couvertureandthe garbstore.com COX & COX 0330-333 2123; coxandcox.co.uk COX LONDON 020-8880 3923; coxlondon.com CTO LIGHTING 020-7686 8700; ctolighting.co.uk D DESIGNERS GUILD 020-7893 7400; designersguild.com E EDIT58 edit58.com EMERY & CIE emeryetcie.com
F THE FABRIC COLLECTIVE 020-7384 2975; thefabriccollective.com FERMOIE 01672-513723; fermoie.com G GEORGE SPENCER DESIGNS 020-7584 3003; georgespencer.com GHIDINI 1961 00-39-030 892 5625; ghidini.it GP&J BAKER 01202-266700; gpjbaker.com GRAHAM AND GREEN 01225-418200; grahamandgreen.co.uk GUINEVERE 020-7736 2917; guinevere.co.uk GUY GOODFELLOW COLLECTION 020-7352 9002; guygoodfellowcollection.com H HABITAT 0844-499 1122; habitat.co.uk H&M hm.com HOULES 020-7352 7450; houles.com J JANE KNAPP 01225-463468; janeknapp.com JESSICA LIGHT 020-7256 1157; jessicalight.co.uk JIM LAWRENCE 01473-826685; jim-lawrence.co.uk
JIM THOMPSON 020-7368 7700; jimthompsonfabrics.com JOHN JULIAN 01722-744805; johnjulian.co.uk K KARIN HOSSACK etsy.com KINGSWOOD CHRISTMAS TREES 01622-843780; kingswoodchristmas trees.co.uk L LIBERTY 020-7734 1234; liberty.co.uk LIGHTS4FUN 01423-816040; lights4fun.co.uk LITTLE GREENE 020-7935 8844; littlegreene.com LORA AVEDIAN loraavedian.com LORFORDS ANTIQUES 01666-505111; lorfordsantiques.com LUKE EDWARD HALL lukeedwardhall.com M MADE IN DESIGN 020-7692 4001; madeindesign.co.uk MARK ALEXANDER 01623-756699; markalexander.com MATHEW BRAY & MATTHEW COLLINS 020-7703 0171; mathewbrayand matthewcollins.co.uk MAX ROLLITT 01962-791124; maxrollitt.com MENU menu.as MINT 020-7225 2228; mintshop.co.uk
N NO 9 THOMPSON 020-7368 7700; no9thompson.com O OSBORNE & LITTLE 020-8812 3123; osborneandlittle.com P PAPERCHASE 020-7467 6200; paperchase.co.uk PENNY MORRISON 020-7384 2975; pennymorrison.com PENTREATH & HALL 020-7430 2526; pentreath-hall.com PETERSHAM NURSERIES petershamnurseries.com PULBROOK & GOULD 020-7730 0030; pulbrookandgould.co.uk R RACHAEL COCKER rachaelcocker.co.uk RAJ TENT CLUB 020-7820 0010; rajtentclub.com RE 01434-634567; re-foundobjects.com ROBERT KIME 020-7831 6066; robertkime.com ROBERT STEPHENSON 020-7225 2343; robertstephenson.co.uk ROMO 01623-756699; romo.com ROSE UNIACKE 020-7730 7050; roseuniacke.com ROWEN & WREN 01276-451077; rowenandwren.co.uk
Below are The List members who have appeared in this issue. Go to houseandgarden.co.uk/the-list to see their complete profiles ANNA HAINES DESIGN | BERTOLINI ARCHITECTS CHARLES EDWARDS | CHESNEYS | COX LONDON| DAVID SEYFRIED DRUMMONDS | FARLAM & CHANDLER | GUY GOODFELLOW | HARVEY JONES KITCHENS | JAMB | MAX ROLLITT | PETER REED | RITA KONIG ROBERT KIME | ROGER OATES | STAFFAN TOLLGÅRD | STUDIO INDIGO
S SAMUEL & SONS 020-7351 5153; samuelandsons.com SAVED NY saved-ny.com SHOP FIRMDALE 020-7907 4040; firmdalehotels.com THE SHOP FLOOR PROJECT 01229-584537; theshopfloorproject.com SKANDIUM 020-7590 0030; skandium.com SKULTUNA skultuna.com SMILOW DESIGN 020-7225 2228; smilowdesign.com SOANE 020-7730 6400; soane.co.uk SOHO HOME 020-3819 8199; sohohome.com SOPHIE CONRAN 020-7603 1522; sophieconran.com STEIFF steiff.com STYLE LIBRARY 020-3457 5862; stylelibrary.com T TINSMITHS 01531-632083; tinsmiths.co.uk TISSUS D’HÉLÈNE 020-7352 9977; tissusdhelene.co.uk TURNELL & GIGON 020-7259 7280; turnellandgigon.com V VISO PROJECT visoproject.com VOLGA LINEN 01728-635020; volgalinen.co.uk W WATTS OF WESTMINSTER 020-7376 4486; watts1874.co.uk WENDY CUSHING 020-7351 4440; wendycushingdesigns.com WILKO 0800-032 9329; wilko.com 첸
HOUSEANDGARDEN.CO.UK DECEMBER 2018 149
UPPER CHEYNE ROW, LONDON SW3 Situated amongst the Queen Anne and Grade II listed properties that are synonymous with Old Chelsea, this unique house is discreetly tucked away behind beautifully crafted wooden automatic gates with off street parking for two cars.
This exceptional house has just been the subject of an extensive redevelopment. The overwhelming majority of the accommodation is over two oors. Its main feature is the incredible studio style reception room which is almost 2,000 sq ft in size and has a 4m high ceiling with direct access to beautifully designed east and west facing gardens. EPC: C Freehold The guide price is available upon request
Chelsea
020 7349 4300 knightfrank.co.uk
West Sussex, Nr Petworth
Guide Price ÂŁ1,475,000
The Perfect Weekend Goodwood Estate: 8.2 miles | Cowdray Park Polo Club: 4.8 miles | Haslemere Station: 14.4 miles | Chichester: 12.3 miles A fantastic conversion apartment in the heart of the South Downs | Grand communal entrance hall | Drawing room | Kitchen/dining room 4 Bedrooms | 2 Ensuite shower rooms | Family bathroom | Separate private entrance | 4 Private parking spaces | 2 Garages Use of residents tennis courts | Beautiful communal gardens and grounds www.4burtonhouse.co.uk George Evans Chichester Oice | 01285 659 661
/struttandparker
@struttandparker
struttandparker.com
60 OfďŹ ces across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.
Tim Wenning Chichester Oice | 01285 659 661
BALTIMORE TOWER LONDON E14
Two magnificent 4 bedroom duplex penthouses, each offering 2,622 sqft of superlative living space with vast terraces providing what must be amongst the most dramatic panoramic vistas ever to be seen in the Capital. Interior design by Nicola Fontanella of Argent Design. Price on application.
Viewing by appointment natalie@galliardhomes.com
020 8418 3730
Life at the top with breathtaking views from dawn to dusk
A JOINT DEVELOPMENT BY
An award winning tower designed by Skidmore Owings & Merril Inc (SOM)
tomhowley.co.uk ALDERLEY EDGE ESHER
ALTRINCHAM
GUILDFORD
call 0161 848 1200 for a free brochure
BEACONSFIELD
HARROGATE
BRENTWOOD
ISLINGTON
BRISTOL
LEAMINGTON SPA
CAMBRIDGE LONDON W1
BRITISH DESIGN & CRAFTSMANSHIP
CHELSEA
EDINBURGH
TUNBRIDGE WELLS CODE K-HG90
Chimneypieces | Lighting | Furniture 020 7730 2122 | jamb.co.uk
Please turn the page to view Supplement
Destinations
Heritage with a modern twist in timeless Bloomsbury doylecollection.com/bloomsbury
Luxury redefined
ANYTHING ELSE IS JUST A HOLIDAY
Lion Sands, Sabi Sands, South Africa
ROOM WITH A VIEW
www.scottdunn.com or call us on 0203 432 5540
With exceptional views, beachfront locations and breathtaking infinity pools, at CV Villas we have a holiday to suit every traveller. Our experienced travel experts use their intimate knowledge to match you with the perfect villa. GREECE • ITALY • FRANCE • SPAIN • PORTUGAL • CYPRUS CARIBBEAN • MOROCCO • TURKEY • CROATIA • AMERICA
cvvillas.com 0207 261 5473
74 66
Produced by House & Garden Special Projects. For enquiries call 020-7152 3754. The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. All details correct at time of going to press, but subject to change.
13
contents Take me there Four destinations where ancient civilisation or wild beauty coexists with luxury
45
64 24
26
28
30
R A DA R Travel news Noteworthy people, places and conversations shaping travel this year Greece on the mind From culture seekers to young families, there is an island to suit every traveller Caribbean revival Transformed after the havoc of Hurricane Irma, paradise looks better than ever Cruise news Cruise journeys for all types of travels, from far-flung adventures to blasts of winter sun
70
74
80
86 37 38
CIT Y GU IDES Antwerp Insider advice on the best places to shop, eat and drink Beirut Local tips on favourite bars, restaurants, stores and sights
92
Great stays From beach resorts and ski chalets to wellness retreats and remote safaris Indelible Inca Discover traditional ways of life overlaid with colonial culture when travelling in Peru Full of flavour Sample some of the world’s best street food on an enticing cruise in Southeast Asia Land of lava and lemon groves Whether in Baroque Catania or chi-chi Taormina, Mount Etna presides over Sicily’s east coast Open horizons The breathtaking colours, extraordinary scenery and wildlife of northern Namibia will leave a lasting impression Old meets new History, mystery and culture intertwine in Japan with its vibrant cities, temples, regional foods and natural beauty Scrapbook Designer Martin Brudnizki’s travel inspirations
31
ON THE COV ER The exquisite hand-painted interior of the eleventhcentury Monastery of Saint John the Theologian on the Greek island of Patmos
DESTINATIONS 2019 7
letter from
THE EDITOR
T
hough we may not all share the same idea of the perfect holiday, we can all agree that travel is important. Some travel for adrenaline and adventure, while others travel to learn, to forget, to relax, for perspective, to connect with those close to them or with strangers from an entirely different world. We travel to see life through another pair of eyes and perhaps even become closer to ourselves. At times we may wish to be near the sea, while at others in the middle of the desert or living like a local in a new city. Regardless of where we choose to go, in the end, we return to our homes a little different. Travelling achieves that for each of us – at different times, and in different places. Lately, I’ve been particularly fascinated by places of isolation. There is unspeakable pleasure in looking onto a wide landscape that feels entirely yours, with no tourists, no signs of foreign influence or civilisation. Nothing puts things into perspective quite as beautifully. Mental and physical space feel ever more important in our lives, as we feel pressure to be ‘on’ at all times. And the travel industry has listened. There are now luxury medical retreats hidden in the mountains, internetand telephone-free private island escapes, five-star hotels opening where tourism previously didn’t exist and wellness programmes at just about every resort. In this year’s Destinations, we explore these different themes of travel. There’s the Skeleton Coast of Namibia, one of the most remote places in the world, where a handful of luxury hotels have recently opened. We live like an eighteenth-century aristocrat in a Sicilian villa, taste street food in Southeast Asia and find the cultural contrasts between old and new in Japan. We ask locals for tips on what to see and do in Antwerp and Beirut, and round up the best places to stay – from beach resorts to safari camps and ski chalets. Whatever your desires and wherever they may take you, I hope to leave you inspired.
Arta Ghanbari Editor, Destinations EDITOR ARTA GHANBARI ART DIRECTOR JOAN HECKTERMANN ART EDITORS REBECCA GORDON-WATKINS, RICHARD SANAPO PROJECT MANAGER PHOEBE WOOD PUBLISHING DIRECTOR EMMA REDMAYNE HEAD OF SPECIAL PROJECTS MELINDA CHANDLER ADVERTISING DIRECTOR SOPHIE CATTO ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER EUROPE CHRIS DAUNT REGIONAL OFFICE SALES DIRECTOR KAREN ALLGOOD ADVERTISING MANAGERS GEORGINA PENNEY, MARINA CONNOLLY ACCOUNT DIRECTORS LORNA CLANSEY-GRAMER, NICHOLE MIKA, HEATHER MITCHELL SENIOR DIGITAL ACCOUNT MANAGER INDIA BARCLAY ACCOUNT MANAGERS OLIVIA MCHUGH, OLIVIA CAPALDI 8 DESTINATIONS 2019
Life at your own pace.
Exceptional villas, local knowledge, personal service thethinkingtraveller.com +44 (0)20 7377 8518 S I C I LY •
PUGLIA •
IONIAN ISLANDS
SPORADES ISLANDS •
CORSICA
PENI NSU L A
M O M E NTS
HONG KONG
◆
SHANGHAI
◆
BEIJING
◆
TO K YO
◆
N E W YO R K
◆
CHICAGO
Under Development
◆
B E V E R LY H I L L S
LONDON
◆
◆
PA R I S
I S TA N B U L
◆
◆
BANGKOK
YA N G O N
◆
◆
MANILA
peninsula.com
TAKE ME THERE REMOTE DOESN’T HAVE TO MEAN ROUGHING IT. ARTA GHANBARI PICKS FOUR FARAWAY DESTINATIONS WHERE ANCIENT CIVILISATION OR WILD BEAUTY COEXISTS WITH LUXURY
AWASI IGUAZU HOTEL/ SOUTH AMERICA REP
IGUAZU NATIONAL PARK ARGENTINA Nature is heard as much as it’s seen in Iguazú National Park. A symphony of blue manakins, magpies, tanagers, black-throated trogons and green-winged saltators performs in the jungle. They’re only a handful of the 400 or so species of birds that live here. Don’t forget the piggish tapirs, Capuchin monkeys and puma, and about 2,000 species of densely growing plants. But the main draw for the park’s million annual visitors is the monstrous Iguazú Falls, 80 metres high and running over 2.7 kilometres. Just 20 minutes away from here is the latest post from Awasi (awasiguazu.com), bringing luxury to an unlikely place with its 14 villas, private plunge pools and Relais & Châteaux dining. DESTINATIONS 2019 13
ANDAMAN ISLANDS INDIA
VILLE PALONEN/ALAMY
On Havelock Island, you will find all the makings of a tropical beach escape. There’s the superb diving, thick rainforest, postcard white-sand beaches and turquoise waters. But the Andamans have a heart and soul unlike those of their tropical counterparts in the Indian Ocean and Caribbean Sea. Tucked far away between India and Thailand, they’re still home to tribes of Andamanese peoples, who have had little contact with the outside world. Roads barely exist between the few hotels and beaches on Havelock. There’s just one five-star hotel in the whole archipelago with the opening of TAJ Exotica (taj.tajhotels.com) earlier this spring. To get here, it takes an 11-hour flight to Chennai from London, a connecting flight to Port Blair on South Andaman and a couple more hours on a boat. And that’s just the point.
14 DESTINATIONS 2019
Smile all the stay in the Maldives
Your fantasy of a laid-back, desert island paradise is about to come true. The freshly-renovated LUX* South Ari Atoll brings an entirely original vibe of coastal, beach house chic holiday. Yes, it’s the Maldives - but not as you know it. MAURITIUS
•
RÉUNION
•
MALDIVES
•
CHINA
•
TURKEY
•
VIETNAM
•
U.A.E
•
I TA LY
NYUNGWE FOREST RWANDA Chimpanzees rule in the Nyungwe Forest, lording it over baboons, owl-faced, golden and colobus monkeys, and a handful of other primate friends. Birds and plants are here in high concentrations. Habitats include waterfalls and mountains, bamboo and marshes. There’s also Mount Bigugu, rising to a peak of nearly 3,000 metres. And it is precisely in these ancient grounds, in a working tea plantation, that One&Only (oneandonlyresorts.com) has set up Nyungwe House, one of two projects in Rwanda along with Gorilla’s Nest, opening later in 2019. Nyungwe is the largest forest left in Central and East Africa, and the park alone spans 1,000 square kilometres. This is an important area of biodiversity for the whole continent, and so it is also one of the best preserved.
16 DESTINATIONS 2019
RETURN TO
PARADISE
Welcoming back guests for Exclusive Use bookings and Celebration Weeks RESERVATIONS: +44 (0)208 600 0430 enquiries@virginlimitededition.com
www.virginlimitededition.com
Some 2,000 metres up in the sky, perched in a terrain of limestone, are two of Oman’s most extraordinary hotels. With barely another sign of civilisation in sight besides a few dusty villages carved into distant mountains, Alila Jabal Akhdar (alilahotels. com) and Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar (anantara.com) are ideal bases from which to see this stretch of the Al Hajar – about a twohour drive from Muscat. Mystery is in the air in the nearby ancient city of Nizwa (pictured), with its old Omani castle and souks, and palm trees interrupting the monotone of beige 첸 18 DESTINATIONS 2019
GRANT ROONEY/ALAMY
JABAL AKHDAR OMAN
MIRROR, SIGNAL, EXPLORE We believe that whatever your need and wherever you choose to explore, you should be in the driving seat. We just want to be there with you, making sure every road leads to a good place.
WE TRY HARDER AV I S . C O . U K
FOUR SEASONS RESORT MAURITIUS AT ANAHITA Mauritius Stay 7 nights in a Garden Pool Villa, half board, and receive up to a 40% rate reduction if you book 120 days prior to arrival.
From £2,295 p.p. – saving £2,110 per couple. Valid 12 Jan-25 Dec 19. Price includes economy Ą «¢¨ãÜʃ ÕØ«ó ã ãØ ÃÜ¡ ØÜ Ã f9 ¼Êèâ Õ ÜÜ Üʈ
CARLISLE BAY Ãã«¢è Stay 7 nights in a Garden Suite, including breakfast, and receive up to a 20% rate reduction.
From £3,495 p.p. – saving £1,580 per couple. q ¼« Ƚ 7 ÃʢȻȻ ÕØ Ⱥɂʈ Êʹ ú ȻɁ " Ⱥɂʈ SØ« «Ã ¼è Ü ÊÃÊÂú Ą «¢¨ãÜʃ ÕØ«ó ã ãØ ÃÜ¡ ØÜ Ã f9 ¼Êèâ Õ ÜÜ Üʈ
DAIOS COVE LUXURY RESORT & VILLAS Crete Stay 7 nights in a Deluxe Room Sea View, half board, and receive up to a 30% rate reduction.
From £1,245 p.p. – saving £680 per couple. q ¼« Ⱦ ÕØʢȼ BÊó Ⱥɂʈ Êʹ ú ȼȺ ȺɁʈ SØ« «Ã ¼è Ü ÊÃÊÂú Ą «¢¨ãÜʃ ÕØ«ó ã ãØ ÃÜ¡ ØÜ Ã f9 ¼Êèâ Õ ÜÜ Üʈ
Our vast, ever-expanding luxury portfolio comprises the ă à Üã ¨Êã ¼Üʃ Ø ÜÊØãÜʃ ó«¼¼ Ü Ã Øè«Ü Ü ôÊؼ ô« ʃ à ô Ê Üã Êà ʡ 㨠ÂÊÜã ¹ÃÊô¼ ¢ ¼ ʃ ô ¼¼ʢãØ ó ¼¼ teams of Luxury Travel Specialists in the industry. Whether you seek a tropical sanctuary in Mauritius, a laid-back escape in
5PIEWI GEPP ȉȦȶȏȏ ȁȟȮ ȴȟȴ or visit elegantresorts.co.uk for more information.
Antigua or a relaxing couples hideaway in Crete, our expert Luxury Travel Specialists can create your perfect getaway. ABTA TA No.V1712
RADAR
N E E D TO K N OW | S P OT L I G H T | H OT E L O P E N I N G S | C R U I S E N E W S
Langkawi, of Malaysia’s west coast, is a top destination for 2019. With its UNESCO Geopark, mangroves, whitesand beaches, eagles and monkeys, there is plenty to see and do. The Datai (thedatai.com), pictured, was the irst ive-star hotel to open on the island and has just undergone a $60-million renovation. There’s also a Four Seasons (fourseasons.com) here, with its string of beachfront villas, and The Ritz Carlton (ritzcarlton.com) followed in late 2017 DESTINATIONS 2019 23
RADAR NEED TO KNOW
WA R O N P L A S T I C THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY IS MAKING WAVES IN REDUCING PLASTIC WASTE BEN PUNDOLE VP BRAND EXPERIENCE, EDITION HOTELS
Stay Plastic Free is an important initiative we launched. The hospitality industry is a heavy plastic pollutant and with a little attention and a few relatively minor changes, we can really make a difference. Marriott, for example, just by banning plastic straws by July 2019, will save one billion plastic straws a year from ending up in landfills or the ocean. There are plastic deposits in the ocean four times the size of France – 70 per cent of the plastic we use ends up in the ocean. At Edition, we’re switching from plastic water bottles to Tetra Paks, cans or glass, don’t use plastic straws, are switching razors and toothbrushes from plastic to bamboo and putting in plastic-free mini bars – it’s an ongoing process. editionhotels.com JOHN ROBERTS GROUP DIRECTOR, SUSTAINABILITY AND CONSERVATION, ANANTARA
THERE’S MORE TO THIS ASIAN CAPITAL THAN SKYSCRAPERS AND CLEANLINESS Cultural diversity has been at the core of Singapore’s development from very early on, and the city remains one of the most international in the world. Here, sky scrapers are the background to old Hindu temples and Chinese architecture. There’s the 101 hectare, water-side Gardens by the Bay. And its Muslim/Malay past can be seen in Kampong Glam, with its Sultan Mosque and shop-lined Arab Street. visitsingapore.com
24 DESTINATIONS 2019
WARREN OZORIO GROUP ENVIRONMENT COORDINATOR, WILDERNESS SAFARIS
In 2012, we developed a five-year strategy to reduce the use of bottled water across the board. Through the use of reusable bottles for guests and installing on-site water purification systems at our camps, as well as raising awareness regarding water conservation amongst staff and guests, we have reduced our plastic water bottle usage by 75 per cent. And since we started producing our own still water, we have saved over 300,000 plastic bottles from entering landfills. wilderness-safaris.com
DAVIDE LOVATTI; AARON LYLES/PIXELLAB; RONNIE CHUA/ALAMY; SHUTTERSTOCK
G O N O W: S I N G A P O R E
Following the success of the first phase of the plastic-straw ban at all Anantara properties in Asia since the start of this year, we have implemented this policy in all our properties since October 1. Each single-use plastic item takes hundreds of years to break down and scientists predict there may be more plastic waste than fish in the oceans by 2050. In addition to the elimination of plastic straws, all plastic water bottles will be banned from Anantara guest rooms, gyms and outlets by the end of 2018. This will prevent an estimated 4.16 million plastic bottles from ending up in landfills and our oceans. anantara.com
Travel News THE PEOPLE, PLACES AND IDEAS SHAPING THE WAY WE TRAVEL
DESIGNER HOTELS THREE COLLABORATIONS BETWEEN INTERIOR DESIGNERS AND HOTELS RITA KONIG
JACQUES GARCIA
PATRICIA URQUIOLA
850 LOS ANGELES
LA MAMOUNIA, MARRAKECH
IL SERENO
The first hotel project by interior designer and House & Garden contributor Rita Konig, 850 Los Angeles (top left) opened this autumn in West Hollywood and is the latest addition to hotelier Jeff Klein’s collection. The 23 suites feel true to Rita’s go-to, pared-back aesthetic, in which a muted colour palette and classic furniture is brought to life with unexpected twists (a mint-green mirror or bold pattern), while Crittall-style windows frame the leafy residential area beyond. number850.com
One of the most stylish addresses in Marrakech, La Mamounia (bottom left) sure isn’t new in town. Since it opened in 1923, the hotel has had its share of famous guests and is firmly one of the finest establishments here. The palace’s ornate design is the vision of Jacques Garcia, and can be seen in the public areas, many suites and three family-size riads. Even if you don’t stay here, it is worth visiting to take in the atmosphere, which harks back to a gone-by era of grandeur. mamounia.com
The contemporary Il Sereno (right), designed by Patricia Urquiola, is a dramatic step away from the pretty neoclassical villas that surround the shores of Lake Como. Blending harmoniously with the glistening water and the Alps in the background, its glass, wood and Ceppo stone façade is far from jarring. The use of local materials continues in the 30 rooms – each has a balcony to take in the views – including stone from Lombardy and Fossena. elegantresorts.co.uk/il-sereno 첸 DESTINATIONS 2019 25
Andros is a lush island with an embarrassment of cultural riches bequeathed by local shipping magnates CULTURE CRAVING Mykonos is better known for its lively beach bars than its cultural heritage. But it’s also the staging post for Delos, once the centre of Cycladic civilisation; the entire island is an archaeological site. Wander through stone-paved alleys, mosaic-lined temples and shopping arcades where pilgrims and hustlers, slaves and ship owners, courtesans and craftsmen once thronged. To relive the rituals of Byzantium, head to Patmos, a magnet for Greek Orthodox pilgrims and international jet-setters alike. The medieval monastery of Saint John casts a spell over Chora, the best-preserved Byzantine settlement in the Aegean. In the bleach-bright alleys, carved doorways lead to some of the most striking mansions anywhere in Greece. (Five Star Greece has the keys to some of them.) For contemporary culture, check out the summer exhibitions at the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art on Andros, a lush island with an embarrassment of cultural riches bequeathed by local shipping magnates. You’ll also find museums devoted to archaeology and the sea, and an open-air theatre where Pantelis Voulgaris, one of Greece’s most respected directors, stages a summer-long arts festival. For digs steeped in history, stay at Ktima Lemonies, a country estate outside the aristocratic village of Lamyra.
FAMILY FRIENDLY The question I get asked most about the Greek islands is: where can I find a seaside hotel that’s great for kids? The answer is always Ammos on Crete. Although it’s been around for decades, every season owner Nikos Tsepetis adds more designer dash to his colourful hideout. Guests
Greece on the mind THANKS TO OVER 220 INHABITED GREEK ISLANDS, ALL TRAVELLERS, FROM YOUNG FAMILIES TO CULTURE SEEKERS, CAN FIND FULFILMENT. RACHEL HOWARD REVEALS WHERE TO GO 26 DESTINATIONS 2019
RADAR SPOTLIGHT return year after year for the incredible breakfasts, free childcare and whole-hearted welcome. The shallow beach is hardly Crete’s finest, but it’s perfect for toddlers. If you’ve got teens in tow, pine-fringed, car-free Spetses – where everything is a stroll, horse-and-carriage or bike ride away — is just the ticket. Rent a motorboat to whizz to secluded bays or learn to waterski and wakeboard at lively Kaiki beach. Understated Sifnos is just the right size to explore in a week. With a glittering pool, yoga pavilion and table tennis, Verina Suites is across the road from the sandy sweep of Platis Gialos, which has something for all ages: traditional tavernas (try Nero & Alati), sensational seafood (don’t miss Omega 3) and mellow beach bars (head to Palmyra for mocktails and mojitos).
NICHOLAS MASTORAS; REGION OF SOUTH AEGEAN; MUNICIPALITY OF SYMI
ROMANTIC ESCAPES Painterly sunsets, clifftop infinity pools, tiny chapels suspended in a sea of blue… the Greek islands score high for romance. Skip the cooing couples taking selfies on Santorini, and head for starkly beautiful Amorgos. While the island lacks resorts, spas or fancy restaurants, it’s the isolation and drama of the rugged terrain that makes it so sensual. For something more sophisticated, head to Symi, whose ravishing harbour is lined with peachy nineteenth-century mansions. One of them is now the Aliki Hotel. All family heirlooms and creaky floors, it brims with retro charm – and you get knock-out views if you book a sea-facing room. Languid little Paxos feels light years away from the madding crowds of Corfu, though it’s only a speedboat ride away. Rental firm Scott Williams has collared the most stylish villas hidden among the olive groves, with paths leading to luminous coves ideal for skinny dipping. For those in the throes of passion, you can’t beat Hydra, muse to Leonard Cohen and Henry Miller, who waxed lyrical about ‘simple pleasures on an aesthetically perfect island’. Both unspoiled and fashionable, this cosmopolitan island of artists has still got it.
OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Monastery of Saint John in Patmos. A horse-drawn carriage on Spetses, which is popular with highsociety Athenians. The harbour of Symi. THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The cliff-hugging Panagia Hozoviotissa monastery on Amorgos. A secluded beach on Paxos. Mykonos is known as a hedonists’ paradise
RADAR HOTEL OPENINGS
Caribbean revival
IN TIME FOR WINTER, LEO BEAR LOOKS TO HOTELS THAT ARE REOPENING AFTER HURRICANE IRMA With winds of up to 215mph, Hurricane Irma was one of the most devastating hurricanes ever to strike land. Tearing a straight course through the Caribbean in late 2017, the islands of Tortola, Barbuda, Anguilla and St Barths were worst afected. Paradise resorts including Eden Rock St Barths and Necker Island were forced to close their doors but, 12 months on, from tragedy comes triumph. Following frenetic levels of rebuilding, resort-wide overhauls and creative architectural additions have been unveiled to rapturous applause. Welcoming guests once again, for an all-new winter season, there’s no better time to visit.
EDEN ROCK, ST BARTHS Following Irma, the entire property (now part of the Oetker Collection) has been lavishly revitalised. While taking care to preserve the hotel’s original character, Martin Brudnizki has given rooms a fresh look, including artwork from the New York Academy of Art, and there’s a new beach bar and sunbathing area. On the Rocks restaurant will not be returning but, instead, an ocean-view spa and handful of suites are being built on high. Reopens December 2018
CHEVAL BLANC, ST BARTHS Following a full-scale facelift, Cheval Blanc has lost none of its lustre. French interior designer Jacques Grange has waved his magic wand across 19 new rooms, as well as a Rivierastyle restaurant, and the hotel’s lush tropical gardens have been brought back to life by the American landscaper Madison Cox. A full transformation will be complete by February 2019. Reopens December 2018
NECKER ISLAND, BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS Richard Branson’s 74-acre playground will be reopening post-Irma in stages. First up is the Great House, historically the main gathering place for guests, which now has 10 stylish bedrooms, all with balconies. Elsewhere, there’s an elegantly restored pool area with sunbathing deck overlooking the ocean. Further guest cottages will open in 2019. Reopens October 2018
LE TOINY, ST BARTHS Post-renovation, guests of Hotel Le Toiny, tucked away in the hills, will be able to enjoy the resort’s sublime shores and rocky outcrops with the addition of eight new suites and a brand-new beach club with pool. London-based interior designer Lady Bee Osborn was tasked with updating all the rooms, restaurants and communal spaces with a coastal-chic aesthetic. Reopens October 2018
BELMOND CAP JULUCA, ANGUILLA Anguilla was the island to recover fastest from the storm, and this 30 year-old beach retreat, recently acquired by Belmond, is re-launching with more than 100 colonial-style rooms dotted across the curves of Maundays Bay. Home to a show-stopping saltwater pool, a spa that ‘disappears’ into its surroundings and a choice of excellent restaurants, it’s definitely one to watch. Opens November 2018 첸 28 DESTINATIONS 2019
ILLUSTRATION: JOAN HECKTERMANN
SILVERSANDS, GRENADA The most anticipated opening in the West Indies for a decade, this uber-resort is causing ripples across the whole island chain. A far cry from the spice island’s usual laid-back lodgings, Silversands has 43 suites and nine villas – all strikingly minimalist in design – a retro-styled rum bar, a modern art gallery and the longest swimming pool in the Caribbean. Opens November 2018
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
FROM TOP Alesund Fjord, Norway. Whale watching in Antarctica
Expand your horizons
PONANT / PHILIP PLISSON, © STUDIO PONANT / LORRAINE TURCI
DISCOVER THE NATURAL WONDERS OF THE WORLD ON THRILLING EXPEDITIONS THAT COMBINE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC’S SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE WITH THE LUXURY AND EXPERTISE OF PONANT While most of the world has been mapped by this point, there still remain a few far-flung corners that have yet to be fully explored and some remote ocean depths that have yet to be charted. For 130 years, National Geographic has been a pioneer in the field of exploration, giving access to nature’s greatest spectacles through science and storytelling. Now this prestigious organisation is inviting you to encounter these wonders up close for yourself. Through a partnership with PONANT, the French luxury cruise company, National Geographic Expeditions has launched an extensive range of expedition cruises throughout the world. Embodying its renowned spirit of adventure, more than 100 unique itineraries have been created across Antarctica, the Arctic, Alaska, the Caribbean and the Pacific, offering incomparable access to places and people. With the expertise of National Geographic on hand, your trip is transformed into a learning experience: every trip is led by an explorer so whether you are climbing ice tunnels with a glaciologist or encountering Mayan ruins with an archaeologist, you can benefit from their expert insights and detailed local knowledge. Gaining the best insight into a place is also about experiencing destinations off the beaten track. With environmentally certified small ships, PONANT can take you to some of the world’s most remote places that are inaccessible for larger vessels. As the world leader in luxury expedition cruising, it offers you the chance to travel in style and comfort, enjoying the latest technologies and innovations, such as its new multi-sensory underwater lounge Blue Eye. For more information, call 0800-223 0688 or visit travelwithnatgeo.co.uk 첸
RADAR CRUISE NEWS
FLAVOUR OF CHINA Cosmos’ (cosmos.com) 15-day ‘Spirit of China & the Yangtze River’ tours in 2019 visit the Great Wall of China, Tiananmen Square and the Terracotta Warriors with extensions available in Hong Kong and Mongolia.
Cruise News
LESLEY BELLEW SELECTS CRUISE JOURNEYS FOR ALL TYPES OF TRAVELS, FROM FAR-FLUNG ADVENTURES TO BLASTS OF WINTER SUN
MEET THE PENGUINS Head out from the world’s southernmost city Ushuaia, in Argentina, during November and December, to see Magellanic penguins caring for their young on Isla Magdalena. The five-day ‘Patagonian Explorer’ cruise on the new Ventus Australis (australis.com) also takes in Cape Horn, the Beagle Channel and enters the Strait of Magellan before arriving at Punta Arenas in Chile.
ISLAND LIFE Watch sea gypsies dive to spear fish on seven-night sailings in the ‘Mergui Archipelago’, where only 11 of over 800 remote islands are inhabited. From November 2018 to April 2019, Pandaw’s (pandaw.com) 20-passenger Andaman Explorer drops anchor off Thailand and southern Myanmar so guests can snorkel in crystal waters, laze on empty beaches and visit offthe-grid villages of the Moken people. 30 DESTINATIONS 2019
OTHERWORDLY CULTURES Delve into indigenous traditions, communities and cultures on National Geographic’s (nationalgeographicexpeditions. co.uk) ‘Ancient Cultures of Northern Australia & Papua’ 11-day cruise. Ponant’s chic new expedition ship Le Lapérouse departs on December 6, 2019 from Darwin, sailing via the Tiwi Islands and Papua to Cairns.
GO WITH THE FLOW For river cruise and stay options, Uniworld (uniworld.com) tops and tails the 12-night ‘Splendours of Egypt & the Nile’, sailing from Cairo on River Tosca, with four-night extensions in both Jordan and Jerusalem.
DREAMING OF WINTER SUN Choose from over 100 Caribbean cruises with Holland America Line this winter, including sailings on Nieuw Statendam, which launches in December. The elegant 2,666-passenger ship sails from Fort Lauderdale with itineraries taking in the Bahamas, eastern and western Caribbean islands and Barbados.
WILD WONDERS Avalon Waterways’ new 2020 brochure includes ‘Ecuador & the Galapagos’, a nine-day tour of South America’s most bio-diverse country. Departing from London Heathrow on March 18, 2020, highlights include sightseeing in historic Quito, a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz and a bucket-list cruise through the Galápagos Islands.
RADAR CRUISE NEWS
BEST OF BRITISH Circumnavigating the British Isles on Spirit of Discovery’s inaugural cruise ‘A British First’ is the perfect way for Saga Cruises (travel.saga. co.uk) to show off its first new luxury boutique ship for the British over-50s market. The 999-guest, all-balcony-room ship offers a choice of speciality restaurants including The Club by Jools, in partnership with Jools Holland, and departs from Dover on July 10, 2019.
BY LAND AND SEA Can’t decide on a cruise or land holiday? Azamara Quest’s (azamaraclubcruises.co.uk) 10-night ‘South Africa’ sailing from Cape Town on January 21, 2020, combines a fivenight ‘Pre Micato Safari’ land stay, which includes a visit to the Victoria Falls and a game drive in Botswana’s Chobe National Park.
RIVER ROMANCE AmaMagna enters AmaWaterways’ (amawaterways.com) river cruise fleet in May 2019, complete with a watersports platform and sundowner boat for intimate trips to watch the sun set during ‘Romantic Danube’ itineraries. 32 DESTINATIONS 2019
XXXXXXXXX
CUBAN CELEBRATION Havana celebrates its 500th anniversary in 2019, showcasing elegant sixteenth-century plazas, art deco gems and preserved American classic cars. Seabourn Sojourn’s (seabourn.com) 12-day ‘Stars of the Cuban Sky’ cruise from Miami on November 4, 2019, calls at four Cuban ports – Antilla (Nipe Bay), Cienfuegos and Santiago de Cuba with an overnight mooring in Havana 첸
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
DIETER MEYRL/GETTY
See incredible sights including the geothermal waters of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon and exotic wildlife on an immersive journey with Holland America Line
Fjords, glaciers, mountains, waterfalls – the landscapes of Iceland, Greenland and Norway are some of the most spectacular on the planet. Holland America Line’s Northern Isles itineraries allow travellers to experience these extraordinary places and the cultures that have grown out of them from the comfort of a luxurious hotel at sea. Many of Holland America Line’s northern journeys are based around the varied geography of Iceland. Guests can take in the striking architecture, absorbing museums and the thriving food scene of its capital, Reykjavik, before venturing further around the coast to the vast cliffs of the fjords, where charming traditional fishing villages and harbours cluster at the edge of the water. The volcanic terrain produces incredible natural phenomena unique to Iceland – the magical, geothermally heated Blue Lagoon, expanses of lava and dramatic geyser fields. The advantages of travelling by sea are evident in Holland America Line’s wider-ranging itineraries, which include Iceland and Norway, as well as the Faroe Islands, Shetland Islands and remote coasts of Greenland and Newfoundland. All of these windswept shores are linked by a shared Scandinavian heritage, the legacy of the Vikings over 1,000 years ago. Few other holidays allow travellers to experience all of these amazing sights in such comfort: stylish accommodation, personal service, sumptuous regionally-inspired dinners and great entertainment are standard with Holland America Line ships, while its ‘Explorations Central’ programme makes sure guests get the very most out of their trip, with talks, guides and carefully-curated experiences on offer at every port. For more information, visit hollandamerica.com or call 0344-338 8605
Northern exposure EXPLORE STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPES AND DISCOVER FASCINATING CULTURES IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE VIKINGS ON A FIVE-STAR HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CRUISE
Untouched beauty MARRYING FAR-FLUNG ADVENTURE WITH A BOUTIQUE HOTEL EXPERIENCE, SEABOURN’S JOURNEYS TO AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC OFFER THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS WITH THE CHANCE TO SEE OFF-THE-GRID PLACES
CLOCKWISE FROM THIS PICTURE Fjordland National Park, New Zealand. Geothermal pool at Waiotapu, near Rotorua in New Zealand. A Seabourn ship sailing past Sydney Opera House
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
T
here is nothing quite like gliding across the dazzling Pacific Ocean through the myriad of islands that surround Australia and New Zealand. Majestic and inspiring, it’s a fascinating environment, rich with culture and astonishing landscapes. Pay a visit to a local market in Perth to enjoy fresh seafood, visit hidden gems such as the harbour town of Picton on New Zealand’s South Island, or go on a snorkel safari in Turtle Bay. For the easiest and by far the most luxurious way to navigate the area, Seabourn’s Australia, New Zealand and South Pacific itineraries are just the ticket. The all-inclusive, all-suite small ships, which accommodate between 458 and 600 guests, not only provide an intimate boutique hotel experience, but also show travellers some of the region’s best sites while providing them with world-class service. The 16-day ‘Australia and New Zealand’ cruise takes in a number of fascinating cities including Melbourne and Wellington, as well as travelling through Milford Sound. There is also plenty to entertain the adventurous, thanks to a range of enriching excursions through the ‘Ventures by Seabourn’ programme and its partnership with UNESCO. Take, for example, one of the Zodiac tours to explore the stunning Fiordland National Park, or learn about the Great Barrier Reef from an expert. Meanwhile on board, the expedition team is on hand to point out interesting wildlife, and there are a number of talks as part of ‘Seabourn Conversations’, in which geologists, biologists and naturalists provide fascinating insight into the local environment at each destination. Adventure and relaxation meet on an enlightening tour of the Pacific with Seabourn’s range of itineraries, ensuring you have the best possible experience of this far-flung corner of the world. Seabourn offers worldwide destinations for 2019 from Mediterranean and Northern Europe through to the Caribbean and Panama Canal, Alaska, Asia, Australasia and the white continent of Antarctica. To find out more call 0344 338 8615 or visit seabourn.com 첸
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
River of dreams
ENJOY BREATHTAKING VIEWS UNFOLDING ENDLESSLY IN FRONT OF YOU THROUGH PANORAMIC CABIN WINDOWS ON AN AVALON WATERWAYS CRUISE. WITH A CHOICE OF DIFFERENT EXCURSION OPTIONS AVAILABLE EACH DAY – CLASSIC, ACTIVE OR DISCOVERY – YOU CAN CREATE YOUR OWN UNIQUELY MEMORABLE JOURNEY ON THREE OF EUROPE’S MOST ICONIC RIVERS
THE RHINE
THE RHONE
THE DANUBE
PANORAMA SUITES
Romantic Rhine: Journey from Amsterdam to Basel via Cologne and Strasbourg, with excursions to the Black Forest and Heidelberg. Active Discovery: Learn to paint in Amsterdam, visit the Zollverein coal mine, a UNESCO site, and take a hike in the forests around Duisburg. Canals, Vineyards and Castles: Soak up the Paris sights for two days before joining the ship at Remich and sailing through the Rhine Gorge and canals of Amsterdam.
Burgundy and Provence: Visit the Roman remains and aqueduct at Lyon and Pont du Gard, as well as famous Parisian sites. Active Discovery: As well as sightseeing, visit an oyster farm, bike through Camargue Regional Nature Park or take a painting workshop. Grand France: Experience the best of France, from Paris to the Côte d’Azur on this luxurious cruise, where you can enjoy fine wines and cheese, beautiful scenery and rich history.
A Taste of the Danube: Experience the dazzling culture of Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest, and natural beauty of Austria’s Wachau Valley. Blue Danube Discovery: Starting with two nights in Budapest and ending with two nights in Prague, discover historic gems in Austria and Germany along the way. Legendary Danube: Explore prime European destinations on foot with guided walks in historic Nuremberg, Prague, Passau and Regensburg.
Completely unique to Avalon Waterways, you can now experience the best views of these beautiful rivers directly from your cabin. Avalon Panorama Suites feature a wallto-wall window that turns your living quarters into an open-air balcony. Wake up each morning to spectacular scenery through your window and enjoy taking in nature’s wonders from the comfort of your own room.
READER OFFER Receive 5 per cent off the total price of an Avalon Waterways holiday when quoting ‘HGFIVE’. For more information, call 0330058 8257 or visit avalon cruises.co.uk/house
CITY GUIDE ANTWERP
CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW LEFT Blue Fonz antiques shop on Kloosterstraat. The elaborate facade of Antwerp Central Station. Middelheim sculpture park. Domestic bakery’s high tea salon. The Dries van Noten store. Trams offer a great way to explore the city. Enjoy Thai dishes at Tamo
G E RT VO O RJA N S’
ANTWERP
OWEN GALE; THE FRESH LIGHT
THE BELGIAN INTERIOR DESIGNER SHARES HIS FAVOURITE PLACES TO SHOP, EAT AND DRINK
My favourite artwork in Antwerp is the bronze statue of the Camel Driver by Belgian sculptor Josuë Dupon near the entrance to the zoo. It symbolises the harmonious living together of man and animal. The Hollandse Synagogue behind the Royal Museum of Fine Arts is a beautiful building by Jewish architect Joseph Hertogs in the Moorish revival style, circa 1893. The Kloosterstraat strip is still the best for antiques and, on Fridays, don’t miss Vrijdagmarkt flea market. Take a stroll around the theatre district – a quiet, artistic area with a mix of contemporary and second-hand shops, bars and galleries – and where our design studio is situated. Stop for coffee at Boer van Tienen or for a light lunch at Carotterie (carotterie.be). Domestic (domestic-bakkerij.be) is one of the most authentic bakeries and has a lovely high tea salon on the first floor. For a drink, BarBel (flavoursofbarbel.com) on the Vrijdagmarkt is a good choice for a nice rosé and, for dinner, Tamo (tamorestaurant.com) on Volkstraat serves great Thai food. Middelheim (middelheim museum.be) is a wonderful open-air museum with amazing sculptures. gertvoorjans.com 첸 DESTINATIONS 2019 37
CITY GUIDE BEIRUT
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A contemporary rocking horse at Joy Mardini Design Gallery. Colourful steps by street artists in Mar Mikhaël. David Raffoul and Nicolas Moussallem. Enjoy a relaxed meal at Sip Beirut café in Gemmayze. The Interdesign Building by Lebanese architect Khalil Khoury. The stylish Centrale bar was designed by his son, Bernard Khoury
38 DESTINATIONS 2019
D AV I D / N I C O L A S ’
BEIRUT LEBANESE FURNITURE DESIGNERS DAVID RAFFOUL AND NICOLAS MOUSSALLEM REVEAL THEIR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS, BARS, SHOPS AND SIGHTS IN THE CITY
A nice spot for lunch or dinner is Kaléo (founddgroup. com) – it’s the first restaurant we designed. There’s an incredible wine list and you should definitely end the meal with the mind-blowing baba au rhum dessert. For traditional, home-style Lebanese cooking, head to Tawlet (soukeltayeb.com/tawlet). It is only open for lunch so get there early. A modern example of top bars in Beirut, Centrale (centrale-beirut.com) is the work of Bernard Khoury and a beautiful place to have a drink. Head to Al Falamanki (alfalamanki.com) in the late afternoon, a traditional café where you will see locals playing a game of backgammon: the place is full of positive energy. For a more contemporary yet laid-back café, try Sip Beirut – a small, relaxed place in Gemmayze, one of the city’s nicest neighbourhoods. Papercup (papercupstore.com) is a lovely bookstore and coffee shop, perfect for discovering all kinds of art and design books. If you’re feeling in need of a drink, then head to Bar du Port (barduportbeirut.com), which has a great selection of single malts, as well as
SHUTTERSTOCK; ERIC LAFFORGUE; BERENGERE CAVALIER; YULIA GROGORYEVA; ALAMY
CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Traditional windows of an old building in Mar Mikhaël. Locals enjoy playing backgammon at Al Falamanki café. Kaléo is the first restaurant designed by David/ Nicolas. A view of one of the streets in the Gemmayze district. The distinctive blue roof of the Mohammad AlAmin Mosque. Beautiful brass tableware is among the treasures to be found at the stylish Orient 499 shop
very good cocktails. Spend a day strolling round the Mar Mikhaël and Gemmayze districts, which are full of shops and skilled artisan makers. The seafront Corniche promenade in Raouché has calming views and is well worth a visit. Orient 499 (orient499.com) is a wonderful shop stocking mostly handmade goods, and you’ll discover things here that you will never find anywhere else in the world. If you are keen to see some of the best local and regional artists, then you should visit Saleh Barakat’s (agialart.com) beautiful space in Beirut. Galerie XXe Siècle (xxesiecle.wordpress. com) is the go-to for unusual vintage furniture. For more contemporary items, the Joy Mardini Design Gallery (jmdesigngallery.com) has pieces by some of Lebanon’s best designers and makers. Old and new architecture meet in Beirut, and Khalil Khoury’s iconic Interdesign Building is a must-see example. If visiting in winter, be sure to go to Soul Kitchen at the Grand Factory – it’s the grooviest you’ll feel in Beirut. davidandnicolas.com 첸
magnificent
JAPAN
mountains, and is a perfect spot Innovation, whether it’s in design, for sun, the outdoors and relaxtechnology or fashion, is a qualation. It is also easy to get to: a ity that defines Japan. And in flight from Tokyo takes approxiTokyo, there is a small museum TO EXPERIENCE ANOTHER SIDE OF JAPAN, mately an hour and 40 minutes. and craft centre, Ochanomizu COMBINE A TRIP TO ITS CAPITAL TOKYO WITH THE Check into the luxurious Phoenix Origami Kaikan, that celebrates Seagaia Resort, which covers 11 an ancient, deceptively simple ISLAND OF KYUSHU TO RELAX AND TAKE IN THE kilometres along the east coast art form that combines the JapaBREATHTAKING NATURE OF MIYAZAKI of Miyazaki City. Here, you can nese tradition of innovation with enjoy many activities in the Phoethe simplest of materials. nix Country Club, from water sports, to horseback riding, tennis, Origami, which involves making tiny figures out of a sheet and a round on its famous golf course. There is also a spa, rejuof paper, is a unique Japanese tradition, and at Origami Kaikan venating natural hot springs, and fine Japanese and international visitors can watch it being crafted, learn about its place in Japarestaurants to taste delicious cuisine. nese culture — and, of course, take a lesson in how to make these From the resort, explore the beauty and history of Miyazaki. The beautiful paper sculptures. ancient, mysterious Saitobaru Burial Mounds are set in hauntingly Origami is one way that Japan preserves its rich historical beautiful countryside in nearby Saito, while the Aya Teruha pedestraditions, and Tokyo encompasses a wealth of such cultural trian suspension bridge spans 250 meters across the Aya River experiences, taking you deeper into its past. Discover the NihonValley and affords spectacular views of an evergreen forest. Round bashi district, which still has many traditional shops from the Edo off your day with a refreshing local craft beer at Kirishima Factory (“old Tokyo”) period. Or pay a visit to the Nezu Museum, set in Garden, the area’s famous brewery. lush green gardens, with its collection of Japanese and East Asian With Tokyo and Miyazaki, your trip to Japan will be complete, antique art. showing several sides of this fascinating country - innovative, traBut perhaps the best way to appreciate Tokyo is to contrast it ditional, cultural, relaxing - that naturally complement each other. with somewhere different. Miyazaki, a province on the island of To learn more, visit kyushuandtokyo.org Kyushu in the south-west of Japan, enjoys views of the ocean and
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
OPPOSITE The garden at Nezu Museum in Tokyo. THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Aya Teruha suspension bridge in Miyazaki. The Japanese art of origami. Phoenix Seagaia Resort. Saitobaru Burial Mounds in Miyazaki. Kirishima Factory Garden brewery
Feel good travel THE TRAVEL INDUSTRY HAS BEEN ONE OF THE GREATEST CHAMPIONS OF SUSTAINABILITY, WITH THE WORLD’S TOP HOTELS COMMITTING TO REDUCING PLASTIC AND WASTE, AND SUPPORTING LOCAL COMMUNITIES. AT THE FOREFRONT OF THIS IS THE TURQUOISE HOLIDAY COMPANY, A FAMILY-RUN TOUR OPERATOR WHICH WORKS DIRECTLY WITH ECO-CONSCIOUS HOTELS AND RESORTS – ALL WITHOUT COMPROMISING FIVE-STAR COMFORTS. HERE ARE THE TURQUOISE TEAM’S TOP FIVE FOR 2019
1 THE BRANDO TAHITI Not many resorts in the South Pacific have had as glamourous a history as The Brando in Tahiti. This private island was once the tropical retreat of Marlon Brando, and since its opening in 2014, it has been committed to preserving the natural beauty and biodiversity of the island he fell in love with. Renewable energy (including sea-water-powered air conditioning) means that The Brando is almost entirely self-sustaining – an impressive feat for such a remote island. From £4,789 for seven nights per person, in a One Bedroom Villa, full board with a daily spa treatment, including flights and transfers.
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
2 NIHI SUMBA INDONESIA Nihi Sumba started off as a surf shack in the Eighties. Over the years, it has grown into one of the world’s most exclusive resorts, focused on supporting the local community and preserving the island of Sumba where it is located. The Sumba Foundation, funded by the hotel and its guests, aims to lessen the impact of poverty on the island, while the hotel’s sustainable building materials and carbon-neutral status make it one of the top eco-friendly places to stay. From £3,649 for seven nights per person, in a Lamba Wave Front Room, full board, including flights and transfers.
2
3
4
5
3 SIX SENSES LAAMU THE MALDIVES Six Senses Laamu is the only resort in this unspoilt Maldivian atoll, and it’s everything you could want from a desert island holiday: white sands, sparkling water and thriving marine life. Six Senses’ commitment to sustainability is evident through its community outreach and waste reduction programmes, in place to protect the reef and the creatures who live in it, that encourage guests to take home everything they bring with them to the island. From £2,890 for seven nights per person, in a Lagoon Water Villa, half board, including flights and transfers.
4 PETIT ST VINCENT THE GRENADINES This private Caribbean island is one of a kind and a true getaway from the outside world. There are just 22 cottages, no TVs, Wi-Fi or phones in sight, and there’s even a flagpole system for requests – just raise a yellow flag or write a note. Your meals will be prepared largely from the organic garden and farm on site, water is desalinated and bottled on the island to avoid importing it, and the hotel also works to conserve and restore the local reef. From £3,899 for seven nights per person, in a One Bedroom Cottage, full board, including flights and transfers.
5 AZURA BENGUERRA MOZAMBIQUE Escape the stresses of modern life at Mozambique’s first luxury boutique eco retreat. Located on the idyllic coast of Benguerra Island, in the Bazaruto archipelago, guests can enjoy laidback luxury living in one of just 20 stunning villas. The hotel was built solely by the local community, using one cement mixer, and sustainable materials, who put in environmentally friendly features such as solar-powered showers. From £4,598 for seven nights per person, in a Beach Villa, all inclusive, including flights and transfers 첸
For ideas, inspiration and a bespoke holiday quote, contact The Turquoise Holiday Company on 020-7147 7087 or visit turquoiseholidays.co.uk
L I V E
H I G H E R
+ 33 4 79 00 00 00 . CONTACT@GRANDESALPES.COM . WWW.GRANDESALPES.COM . FRANCE
GREAT STAYS A SELECTION OF THE BEST HOTELS AROUND THE WORLD, FROM BEACH RESORTS AND SKI CHALETS TO WELLNESS RETREATS AND REMOTE SAFARIS
Four Seasons Seychelles (fourseasons.com), on private Desroches Island, is surrounded by 14 kilometres of pristine beach and protected by coral reef. It opened in March 2018, in perfect timing with BA’s new direct light to Mahé
DESTINATIONS 2019 45
GREAT STAYS BEACH
THE MALDIVES
Anantara Kihavah AN UNDERWATER RESTAURANT AND GLASS-FLOORED VILLAS KEEP YOU IN TOUCH WITH THE TURQUOISE SEA
Even if you haven’t been to the Maldives, it’s one of those places you’ve seen a thousand times. But nothing quite prepares you for the real thing. Flying via seaplane from Malé, over thousands of sand banks that bulge out of the dark blue of the Indian Ocean in the Baa atoll, we land on water and continue by motorboat towards Anantara Kihavah. With private ininity pool, glass-loored bathtub and outdoor shower, the over-water villas ensure views of the turquoise waters and marine life living in it at all times (reef sharks included), while the beach villas (ideal for families) are hidden away in the dense rainforest. The hotel’s underwater restaurant, Sea, surrounded by coral, is a must-go. The views continue up above at Sky, the Maldives’ irst over-water observatory. Surely this must be paradise. anantara.com; turquoiseholidays.co.uk
MAURITIUS
Canonnier Beachcomber Set on its own peninsula on the north coast of Mauritius, Canonnier is at the opposite end of the island from the row of luxury resorts in popular Le Morne. And that’s precisely one of its biggest draws. Unlike the more remote vacation settlements along the west and south, here you are a couple minutes’ drive from shop- and restaurantlined Grand Baie and Trou-aux-Biches, so it’s easier to pass beyond the parameters of your pool and get a sense of Mauritian life. Canonnier has three beaches, a spa nestled in the branches of a 300-year-old Banyan tree and three restaurants, with excellent golf at the Mont Choisy course. Further along the historic coast live an ancient lighthouse, a ruined fortress and cannons. beachcomber-hotels.com
46 DESTINATIONS 2019
WORDS: ARTA GHANBARI. PHOTOGRAPH: A.ISSOCK
YOU’RE CLOSE TO ISLAND LIFE AND HISTORY – PLUS THREE BEACHES – AT THIS HOTEL NESTLED AMID BANYAN TREES
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
MAURITIUS
Paradis Beachcomber HAVING UNDERGONE A COMPLETE MAKEOVER, THE VILLAS AT PARADIS GOLF RESORT & SPA ON LE MORNE PENINSULA TICK ALL THE BOXES FOR THE PERFECT FAMILY HOLIDAY
A family holiday needs a number of things to be successful: enough space for everyone, facilities to cater to diferent needs, and, crucially, exciting activities to keep the children occupied. The Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa on Mauritius’ idyllic Le Morne peninsula has all of these qualities, making it the ideal place to unwind with your nearest and dearest. The resort’s Paradis beachfront villas have just undergone a complete transformation, and are the perfect family choice – there are 12 threebedroom villas and one four bedroom, with valet, club car and bikes included. The free kids’ club will keep the smallest members of the family entertained with activities galore – from tennis to snorkelling (and of course golf) – while the spa caters to those in search of a more tranquil experience. Surrounded by natural beauty, and with everyone happily occupied, you’re practically guaranteed a harmonious holiday. READER OFFER Book at least 60 days in advance to receive 20 per cent of accommodation. To book call 01483-445 685; beachcombertours.uk
GREAT STAYS BEACH
GREECE
Myconian Avaton WITH ITS GENUINELY HELLENIC AURA AND ELEVATED BAY-WATCH POOL, THE PARTY PEOPLE SEEM FAR AWAY
WORDS: EMMA REDMAYNE. PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOS DRAZOS
The Avaton, one of the most cool, fun and relaxing hotels of the Myconian Collection, is cleverly decorated with local artefacts and photographs of ageing Greeks, all adding charm and personality. The restaurant serves exquisite Mediterranean with a twist, while the wine list and cocktail menu will impress. The main pool is a sanctuary several hundred metres above the bay, delivering a sunset view to savour. It’s like loating in the air, in elevated privacy, with no evidence of the hedonism of Mykonos – that’s somewhere over the horizon, waiting to be discovered. myconiancollection.gr
48 DESTINATIONS 2019
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
GREECE
Santa Marina ENJOY UNRIVALLED LUXURY IN A PRIVATE SETTING ON THE FASHIONABLE ISLAND OF MYKONOS
On a secluded peninsula just four kilometres from Mykonos town, Santa Marina Resort & Villas is a wonderfully chic place to stay. The ive-star luxury resort is the only one on the island with its own private sandy beach, where Buddha-Bar Beach ofers a unique food, drink and entertainment experience. Guests can stroll around the resort’s beautifully manicured gardens, and enjoy stylish rooms with balconies ofering panoramic vistas, elegant suites and luxurious individual villas. Discover peace and tranquillity at the Oasis Pool & Lounge, with its stunning views of the bay, or in the new Ginkgo Spa, which delivers upliting, pampering treatments designed to soothe the body and soul. Santa Marina strikes the perfect balance between an authentic local experience and worldclass service. To book, visit santa-marina.gr or call 00-30-22 89 02 3220. Follow Santa Marina on Instagram @santamarinamykonos
GREECE
Santo Maris Oia EXPERIENCE SPECTACULAR SUNSETS IN CHIC SURROUNDINGS ON BEAUTIFUL SANTORINI
Set apart from the tourist centre of Santorini, the emblematic newly-built Santo Maris Oia Luxury Suites and Spa is situated in the nearby picturesque village of Oia. Perfectly located to ofer guests privacy and serenity, the hotel has breathtaking views of the sunsets over the Aegean Sea. With ive outdoor swimming pools (including two ininity pools), Alios Ilios restaurant serving Cretan cuisine, an awardwinning spa centre and a gym, there is a wealth of options for guests to choose from, but if you feel like a little local exploring, it is easy to stroll down to Oia village via the hotel’s private path. Spectacular vistas come as standard with any of the stylish suites or villas, each with its own personal outdoor heated jacuzzi and veranda. Guests can choose from a sea view or sea and sunset view, with the new Exclusive Sunset Suites ofering a serene sanctuary. To book, go to santomaris.gr or call 00-30-22 866 00630
GREAT STAYS BEACH
MEXICO TAKE IN THE HIGHLIGHTS OF TULUM FROM A PRIVATE RETREAT ON THE EDGE OF A TROPICAL RAINFOREST
If the trendy beach resorts of Tulum aren’t much of your scene, this private jungle retreat is a stone’s throw from the centre of town, yet hidden behind the dense vegetation of the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. With ive bedrooms, wrap-around terraces and spacious living areas, the white concrete house was designed to make the most of the views of nature and the sea of palms that engulf it. designhotels.com
50 DESTINATIONS 2019
WORDS: ARTA GHANBARI. PHOTOGRAPH: CLAUS BRECHENMACHER; REINER BAUMANN
Tulum Treehouse
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
BARBADOS
Coral Reef Club and The Sandpiper SINCE THE FIFTIES, THE O’HARA FAMILY HAS RUN TWO OF THE MOST LOVED HOTELS ON BARBADOS’ WEST COAST
With its turquoise water, white sand beaches and charming chattel houses, Barbados is an island paradise and one of the most desired destinations in the world to visit. As such, it boasts a wealth of luxury hotels, with none more loved than the award-winning Coral Reef Club and The Sandpiper on the coveted West Coast. These boutique sister hotels are familyowned and managed, having been established by Budge and Cynthia O’Hara in the Fities. These days, it is their three children who have taken on the duty of bringing the hotels into the twenty-irst century. Both properties are set within beautifully landscaped gardens and positioned right on the beach, just a short distance away from each other. Work up a sweat with water sports, golf, or tennis at Coral Reef Club before relaxing at The Spa. Then head to Harold’s Bar at The Sandpiper for a sundowner, followed by a delicious Caribbean meal. READER OFFER Prices for 2019 from $505 in summer and $915 in winter a night for two, B&B. coralreefbarbados.com; sandpiperbarbados.com
GREAT STAYS WELLNESS
AUSTRIA
Lanserhof Lans DETOX MIND AND BODY WHILE BREATHING IN PURE ALPINE AIR AT A SPA WITH A TOP-CLASS CLINIC
One of the world’s best medical spas, Lanserhof Lans in Tyrol is the place to go for an intensive detox of both mind and body in panoramic Alpine surroundings. Every guest undergoes an intensive gut cleanse to eliminate waste, a reduced diet and proper chewing of food. Based on the founding principles of Austrian physician F X Mayer, the clinic promotes detoxiication and deacidiication of the gut as the root to all good health. Housed in a pristine enclave of glass and wood, the clinic is alcohol- and sugar-free; while the regime might sound daunting, the doctors and nurses are on your side, and you feel thoroughly well cared for at every moment. Hunger pangs are kept at bay with mountain walks, yoga and swimming, while relexology and massages help you switch of from the outside world. A stay will overhaul your health and arm you with life-changing lessons to take back home. lanserhof.com
LAOS
Rosewood Luang Prabang ‘If you are quiet enough, you will hear the low of the universe. You will feel its rhythm. Go with this low. Happiness lies ahead.’ There can be few places more suited to following this teaching of Buddha than the beautiful new Rosewood Luang Prabang. Designed by the visionary Bill Bensley, a grand colonial-style mansion and 23 suites, villas and stilted tents are set across a frothy river ringed by thick green rainforest on the outskirts of Laos’ spiritual capital. Upstream, three tented spa suites have glass windows beneath the treatment beds so you can lie face-down hypnotised by the burbling river while a Hmong healer performs ancient wellness rituals using plants foraged from the woods. For further enlightenment, an in-house spiritual teacher and former monk is on hand for meditation sessions, temple tours and blessing ceremonies. rosewoodhotels.com
52 DESTINATIONS 2019
WORDS: LAURA HOULDSWORTH; LEE COBAJ. PHOTOGRAPH: OWEN RAGGETT
BUDDHIST MONKS AND HMONG HEALERS BRING PEACE IN A COLONIAL-STYLE CAMP IN THE RAINFOREST
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
VIETNAM
Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai TAKE IN THE HISTORICAL SIGHTS OF HOI AN BEFORE RELAXING IN YOUR BEACH-SIDE VILLA AT THIS TOP RESORT
Vietnam is one of those rare destinations that ofers something for everyone – beautiful beaches for sun worshippers, fascinating culture for explorers and delectable food for epicureans. Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai on Vietnam’s central coast makes a chic base, with easy access to the cultural heartland and three UNESCO sites: the ancient town of Hoi An, the Imperial City of Hue and the My Son temple sanctuary. Paying homage to its surroundings, the resort itself is set within a vast lush garden and the hotel’s design is inspired by traditional Phong Thuy principles. Guests stay in one of 100 sleek villas that look out onto Ha My, a kilometre-long stretch of breathtaking beach. Traditional Vietnamese and Asian fusion are just two of the cuisines served at the four restaurants and bars, and food lovers will enjoy the Nam Hai Cooking Academy, which ofers daily excursions based on the day’s culinary theme. fourseasons.com/hoian
GREAT STAYS WILD
BOTSWANA
Mombo Camp IN THE MOREMI GAME RESERVE, TRACK WILDLIFE FROM YOUR PRIVATE PLUNGE POOL ON A RAISED TERRACE
For nearly 30 years, wildlife fanatics have descended on Mombo, a low-key camp in Botswana’s sprawling Okavango Delta, for both its splendid isolation and stellar year-round animal watching. And now, following a structural overhaul, the property has once again upped its safari game. Under the shady canopy of sausage and jackalberry trees, the nine tented suites are elevated for prime views of the wildlife-speckled loodplains, while each is accessed via a raised boardwalk, allowing large animals to roam freely beneath. The timber-lined interiors are a pleasing modern/colonial blend with textured wall panels, clubby leather chesterields, wooden chandeliers and bronze accents. Every room features a spacious terrace, outdoor shower and plunge pool, which is the best spot to wallow ater a morning spent viewing, arguably, the best wildlife in Africa. scottdunn.com
TANZANIA
The Highlands Perched at a loty 2,660 metres on the slopes of the Olmoti volcano in northern Tanzania, The Highlands camp is a sensational mix of traditional safari thrills and brave contemporary design. Eight geodesic domes built from Perspex and canvas run along an isolated hillside that catches both sunrise and sunset, with each suite luxuriously furnished in a clean, Nordic style featuring a panoramic deck, faux-fur throws, a king-sized bed and a wood-burning stove. Another good reason to check in is to go hiking in the nearby Empakaai crater, where forest trails descend to a six-kilometre-wide caldera whose lake is ablush with lamingoes. Another plus is that you’re just a 40-minute drive from the relatively quiet Lemala entrance to the Ngorongoro crater, a colossal amphitheatre where nature has brought together some 25,000 animals to create one of the greatest wildlife spectacles in the world. asiliaafrica.com
54 DESTINATIONS 2019
WORDS: LAUREN HO; NIGEL TISDALL. PHOTOGRAPH: CROOKES AND JACKSON
HIGH-TECH DESIGN MEETS AWE-INSPIRING NATURAL BEAUTY ON THE SLOPES OF A VOLCANO
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
FROM TOP The heated outdoorindoor pool allows for year-round swimming. The two- and three-bedroom villas, all with private pool or jacuzzi, are situated in the lush gardens
PORTUGAL
Four Seasons Fairways TAKE IN PORTUGAL’S BREATHTAKING ALGARVE COAST WITH A STAY AT FOUR SEASONS FAIRWAYS, WHICH OFFERS ALL THE LUXURIES OF A VILLA HOLIDAY AT A TOP RESORT
The Algarve leaves much to desire: it is less than a three-hour light from London, the weather is pleasant all-year long, and there are some of the inest luxury resorts. Nestled in the reined enclave of Quinta do Lago, Four Seasons Fairways is one of the most appealing resorts in the region. The accommodation is organised into private villas and apartments, perfect for couples, families or friends. Each villa has its own pool or jacuzzi alongside an area for barbecues, so visitors can make themselves at home. There are plenty of activities on ofer too, from yoga and tai chi to golf on the many courses nearby, shopping and restaurants in the area and pristine beaches. At the resort, the newly refurbished Clubhouse is a delightful place to unwind. Meanwhile, its Portuguese-inspired Amara restaurant, an indoor-outdoor pool and the all-important kids’ club draw guests in. READER OFFER Book seven nights for four guests in a two-bedroom villa or apartment, B&B, including transfers and kids’ club access, from €1,100. 00-35-1289 357667; fourseasonsfairways.com Algarve Tourism: visitalgarve.pt/en
GREAT STAYS SKI
FRANCE
Grandes Alpes APRES SKI COULD HARDLY GET MORE APPETISING THAN AT THIS SUPREMELY SITUATED DE LUXE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
Not only is Grandes Alpes the oldest and most exclusive boutique hotel in Courchevel, it also has the best location: there aren’t many luxury hotels in the Alps that allow guests to ski in and out as well as stroll into the heart of the resort in just a few minutes. Grandes Alpes was remodelled in 2012 to ofer just nine ultra-stylish private apartments, each conigured diferently to ofer a total of 30 bedrooms and suites, all with a professional kitchen whose team of chefs is ready to rustle up whatever you fancy, whenever you fancy it; they also come with private butler service, wine cellar, spacious living and dining areas and splendid mountain views. Grandes Alpes has a chic bar famous for its bellinis, a spoiling spa and a ski room that opens directly on to Bellecôte piste. And it’s only a stone’s throw from Courchevel’s array of upmarket restaurants, shops and sports facilities. grandesalpes.com
ITALY
Le Massif At the foot of Mont Blanc, you can now ski as the Italians do. Le Massif, the new outlet of the Italian Hospitality Collection, is scheduled to open in December and will have 80 rooms and suites. The hotel is located in the centre of Courmayeur, with its stylish restaurants and shops, and near the resort cable car. Dining will come in the form of a top-notch steakhouse and all-day family restaurant (there’s also a kids’ club when it’s time for an adults-only après ski). The contemporary interiors are decorated in neutral tones with gold accents, and the mix of materials – including rich leather upholstery, and stone and wood on the walls and loors – works in harmony. Outside, the slopes here comprise a diverse range of pistes for various abilities, as well as heli- and para-skiing for the fearless. lemassifcourmayeur.com
56 DESTINATIONS 2019
WORDS: ARTA GHANBARI; MAGGI O’SULLIVAN. PHOTOGRAPH: HANS KRISTIAN KROGH-HANSSEN
PISTE ARTISTS WILL LOVE TO UNWIND AT THIS BRANDNEW PLUSH HOTEL, WHICH CATERS FOR FAMILIES
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
AUSTRIA
Almhof Schneider FAMILY OWNED SKI-IN SKI-OUT ALMHOF SCHNEIDER IS A DEEPLY INSPIRING PLACE TO RECHARGE
Steps away from the ski lits in Lech, one of the best skiing areas in the world, ive-star Superior Almhof Schneider is a rare ind. Home of the Schneider family since 1451, the property has been welcoming guests as a hotel since 1929 and is now run by fourth-generation hoteliers, Gerold and Katia Schneider. It ofers discreet luxury in an efortless, stylish setting – the kind only possible from a family business. Two à la carte restaurants serving contemporary alpine and Austrian cuisine will ensure your holiday is not only about skiing, as will the light-illed recently opened spa. Next to Almhof is Schneggarei, a ski lodge where guests and a young crowd gather for après ski, while Gerold’s mother runs the romantic Klösterle restaurant. Up the hill, Gerold and Katia have launched a cultural venue exhibiting world-class artists, who also contribute to the art collection displayed throughout the hotel. almhof.at
THIS PAGE The living area of the Opus Suite. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A Terrace Junior Suite. A new suite by John Heah
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
LONDON
The Berkeley A FAVOURITE AMONG LONDON’S MOST STYLISH CROWD, THE BERKELEY HOTEL UNVEILS NEW DESIGNS FOR ITS ENTRANCE, SUITES AND ICONIC BLUE BAR
Since 1972, The Berkeley has not only built a reputation for being one of the inest luxury establishments in London – but the world. The Knightsbridge hotel has recently undergone a major refurbishment, with new designs unveiled from the bar to the suites. Working with an impressive roster of leading architects and designers that includes André Fu, Robert Angell and John Heah, each area has been artfully reimagined. The new contemporary entrance design by Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, featuring an impressive glass canopy, creates a striking irst impression. Meanwhile inside, the new suites ofer the highest standards of luxury and style, with Terrace Suites that overlook St Paul’s Church and two remarkable Pavilion Suites – some of the largest and most decadently decorated in the city. The iconic Blue Bar has had its original David Collins design updated, with the distinctive blue now more prominent throughout the rich interiors. With such an elaborate restoration, the memory of the beautiful interiors will inspire long ater your visit. the-berkeley.co.uk
GREAT STAYS CITY
UNITED STATES
The Peninsula FEEL LIKE A GILDED-AGE PLUTOCRAT AT THIS HANDILY LOCATED MIDTOWN HOTEL, OOZING OLD-WORLD CHARM
Walking past fashion shops and oice towers in New York’s Fith Avenue, you are met with the decorative Beaux Arts façade of The Peninsula hotel on the corner of 55th Street. The elegant, two-loor foyer comes with curved stone staircase, elaborate plasterwork, crystal chandelier and a sense of old-world charm that is rare to ind in contemporary New York. As far as location goes, it’s hard to beat The Peninsula’s position in Midtown, with Central Park in one direction, MoMA in another and Saks just down the street. Christmas is an especially good time to visit, as the hotel is decked out in festive decorations (making it very popular with families). Meanwhile in summer, its rootop bar is the place to be, with unbeatable views over skyscrapers and city life below. peninsula.com
GERMANY
Adlon Kempinski The Adlon Kempinski in Berlin comes with all the comforts you’d expect of a ive-star hotel. That starts with the foyer, resplendent with traditional furniture, golden ceilings and a stained-glass dome. You’ll be spoiled for space in its suites (take one with views of the nearby Brandenburg Gate). And the two-loor spa is just what the body calls for ater a night in Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain or Neukölln, or ater a long walk through the beautiful Tiergarten towards the more prim and proper west end. Don’t skip breakfast – it’s a grand afair in the dining salons above the foyer and the choice is overwhelming. This is no doubt one of the most glamorous addresses in the capital of cool, with major tourist sights like Unter den Linden, the Academy of Arts and the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe all within a 15-minute walk. kempinski.com 첸
60 DESTINATIONS 2019
WORDS: ARTA GHANBARI
A GLAMOROUS HOTEL BY THE BRANDENBURG GATE, WITH SPACIOUS SUITES TO MATCH – A HOT SPOT FOR A HIP CITY
#MYOLYMPICISLAND
Luxury tailor-made holidays and island hopping across 50 glorious European islands Sample itinerary
ANDROS
Romantic Greece Santorini > Naxos > Mykonos
TINOS
SYROS
T
MYKONOS
he Cyclades form a circle around the sacred, and uninhabited, island of Delos. Each island has its own strong identity so island-hopping brings with it new customs, signiďŹ cantly different landscapes and everything for peaceful days to lively nights.
PAROS
MILOS
Flights from 27 UK airports
Hotel transfers
Inter-island ferries
ABTA and ATOL protection
NAXOS
Cyclades Islands
IOS SANTORINI
Call 020 8492 6868 or visit olympicholidays.com
THIS PAGE The Explorers’ Lounge on the Viking ocean ships. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Wintergarden. A display in The Explorers’ Lounge. A sitting area in the Living Room
HOUSE & GARDEN PROMOTION
Scandi chic
INSPIRED BY SCANDINAVIA, VIKING’S FLEET OF OCEAN SHIPS ARE ONE OF THE MOST STYLISH AT SEA Thanks to Viking, we can all be intrepid explorers. The company’s fleet of five ships – with a sixth launching in 2019 – travel to the world’s greatest destinations, from Europe to Asia, Australia to North America. Whatever your interest – whether it’s art and architecture, learning to cook local food, or hiking and kayaking – there are itineraries to suit you. Viking’s cruises include everything you need to enjoy yourself: an excursion in almost every destination, meals in a choice of restaurants with wine and beer included with lunch and dinner, plus Wi-Fi and access to the spa. Indeed, relaxation is a key part of the Viking experience. Its ships’ interiors are unlike any other: sophisticated, tasteful and understated. With its roots firmly in Scandinavian design, Viking insists on materials and colours drawn from nature – blond woods, sea blues, white, oatmeal – to create a modern, light aesthetic. The sense of calm continues into the elegant staterooms and suites, with their heated floors, fine linens, and veranda views. Together with attentive personal service, delicious food and wine, and a welcoming on-board social life, Viking will give you an unforgettable holiday – and unequalled value for money. READER OFFER Viking ocean cruises for 2019-2020 are now on sale. Receive a free Silver Spirits Beverage Package on cruises of up to 15 days, giving unlimited premium wines, spirits, mixers and cocktails any time on board. Simply call 020-8780 6533 and quote ‘House and Garden’ before 31 December 2018. Terms and conditions apply. vikingcruises.co.uk
Indelible Inca EVER SINCE THE SPANISH CONQUEST, MUCH OF LIFE IN PERU HAS BEEN OVERLAID WITH COLONIAL CULTURE. YET WHETHER IT’S EARTH GODDESSES HIDING IN CATHOLIC CHURCHES, FLOATING ISLANDS ON LAKE TITICACA OR FATTENED GUINEA PIGS, THE OLD WAYS ARE REMARKABLY PERSISTENT TEXT STANLEY STEWART | PHOTOGRAPHS PHILIP LEE HARVEY
64 DESTINATIONS 2019
OPPOSITE View over agricultural land in the Huacarpay Valley, near Cusco. The wetlands are an important ecosystem in the High Andes THIS PAGE The fifteenth-century Inca citadel of Machu Picchu wasn’t discovered by the Spanish conquistadors – nor the wider world until 1911
TOP ROW FROM LEFT In Paucartambo, locals carry children on their backs in distinctive manta cloths. Totora reed boats are moored on a small family island on Lake Titicaca. Uros children play at school on one of the lake’s floating islands 66 DESTINATIONS 2019
MIDDLE ROW, FROM LEFT A street view of Maras, an old town 3,380 metres up, known for its salt ponds. A woman working reeds on Lake Titicaca – the floating islands are constructed from this material. Early-morning landscape at Machu Picchu
BOTTOM ROW, FROM LEFT A train passing through Ollanta Station to Machu Picchu. The Plaza de Armas, in the heart of Cusco, partially covers the Haukaypata, the Great Inca Square. People walking by old buildings in Paucartambo
THIS PAGE A few hundred Uru people live on an archipelago of roughly 120 floating islands on Lake Titicaca, near Puno. Many have now moved to the mainland
I
n the ancient Inca town of Ollantaytambo, I popped into the local bar for an evening aperitif. A yellow banner outside the door announced they were brewing fresh chicha, the home-made corn beer of the Andes, said to be particularly good for lactating mothers and men with prostrate problems. I ordered the strawberry flavour; who could resist sampling pink beer? It was served with a plate of nibbles – the ever-popular smoked chicken feet. In the Andes the old beliefs and the old ways are remarkably persistent. I was sitting on a wooden bench against a wall in what was the front room of a family house. All was as it would have been five centuries ago: stone walls, a thatched roof, fattened guinea pigs running around the earthen floor, a cooking fire, a loom, as well as an altar with three skulls and a lucky llama foetus. I had begun my trip in Cusco, known to the Incas as the navel of the world and still recognisably an Inca town. Indigenous peoples form the bulk of the population, and the old languages are still common in these streets. In the cobbled lanes, walls of ancient masonry rear like unquiet ghosts. Churches and monasteries have been grafted on to the roots of Inca temples, and in the markets you can still buy offerings for Pachamama, the earth goddess – herbs and oils, chicha beer and fruit. Take them to any of the churches and you will be sure to find Pachamama near the high altar, neatly disguised as the Virgin Mary. In Peru, the persistence of the old Andean world is one of the country’s most fascinating features. But there are places that stand as exceptions to this syncretism, places where you can escape the overlay of colonial culture, where you can find the old world of the Inca intact. One of them is Machu Picchu. I boarded the train in Cusco – Belmond, which operates the Orient Express, runs elegant retro carriages – and rattled through river gorges beneath cloud-shredding peaks. From Aguas Calientes, I caught the bus that takes visitors up a winding road through ivy-clad jungle. At the top, I emerged in a strange new world. Part of the allure of Machu Picchu is its location. Perched among Andean summits like an eagle’s eyrie, it sits astride a spectacular ridge framed by plunging canyons. It is remote, mystical and mysterious. And the Spanish never found it. Debate still rumbles on as to what its purpose was – a spiritual centre, a winter palace, a remote fortification. It
68 DESTINATIONS 2019
was abandoned at the time of the Spanish Conquest, and forgotten. There was no looting or destruction here, no Spanish building atop Inca shrines. Just the slow crumble of time. It was not until 1911 that a dumbstruck American explorer stumbled upon the lost city. The other destination where pre-Columbian Peru comes down to us unadulterated is Lake Titicaca, the sacred centre of the Andean world. Another train took me the ninehour journey across the altiplano to the town of Puno on the lake. Most visitors head for the floating Uros islands, but they have become something of a tourist trap, overwhelmed by crowds and rapacious guides. Instead hop on one of the numerous tourist buses and cross the border to Copacabana in Bolivia. From there, regular boats run out to the Isla del Sol and the Isla de La Luna. There is an eerie, otherworldly quality about the largest (190 by 80km) high-altitude lake in the world. To the east are the snow peaks of the Cordillera Real. At night reflections of the stars shimmer in the black water. Titicaca is steeped in legends, and some of them appear to be true. UFO sightings are common here. A great city is said to lie beneath the lake. Archaeological dive teams have retrieved gold statues and discovered walls below. More than one writer has suggested this might be the legendary Atlantis. Cousteau found giant blind frogs, almost a metre wide, that live in caves deep underwater and breathe like fish, and which are sacred to the local fishermen. I stayed in a small hotel in Yumani on the Island of the Sun, where farmers still till the old Inca terraces. Pigs were snorting and rooting in the yards of the clustered houses, while llamas peered over the stone walls with that aloof, superior gaze they had perfected long before the rise of the Incas. At the ruins of Ajllawasi, I found local women in bowler hats and splendid shawls burning cocoa leaves as offerings in the altar niches. At the great Temple of the Sun, where virgins were once sacrificed, it was impossible not to feel the presence of the past and the potency of the place. The names of the two islands – the Islands of the Sun and the Moon – are not merely fanciful. To the Inca, the lake was associated with the very origins of the world. The sun and the moon were created from its waters. It felt, so the Inca believed, the closest place on earth to heaven, the crossing point between our realm and the gods who governed our fate 첸
OPPOSITE With a child on her back, a Quechua woman wearing traditional dress visits Chinchero Sunday market THIS PAGE The Church of la Compañía de Jesús in the Plaza de Armas. Cusco, overshadows girls in a schoolyard playing ball
Full of f lavour SOUTHEAST ASIA HAS SOME OF THE WORLD’S BEST STREET FOOD – FROM PHO AND BANH MI IN VIETNAM TO PAD THAI AND SOM TAM IN THAILAND, SHRIMP PANCAKES IN CAMBODIA AND DUMPLINGS IN CHINA. A CRUISE IS A GOOD WAY TO TASTE ALL THE REGION HAS TO OFFER TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS CHRIS CALDICOTT
OPPOSITE A woman cycles in the Old Town of Hoi An in Vietnam. THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Notre Dame Cathedral in Ho Chi Minh. A food market vendor in Hoi An. A restaurant in Hoi An’s Old Town. A mural in Bangkok DESTINATIONS 2019 71
72 DESTINATIONS 2019
In Sihanoukville, I made fish amok and crispy banh xeo shrimp pancakes in a chef training institute
S
tanding alone at dawn on Viking Orion’s top deck, sailing full speed ahead through the vast millpond calm seascape of the Gulf of Thailand, I had a perfect moment. On my first day at sea on this 15-day Bangkok to Hong Kong section of Orion’s maiden voyage to Asia, I woke before dawn full of energy and anticipation for the journey ahead. I hit the upper promenade deck to be rewarded with the magical sight of a full moon slowly sinking into a redwine-stained sky to the east, as a synchronised sun came up in honey to the west. The 745-foot, 47,800-ton Orion is the latest of Viking’s fleet of similar vessels embracing the ‘smaller ship’ concept of cruising, designed to offer balconies in all 464 very comfortable, Scandi-style cabins, and allowing navigation up rivers and docking in smaller ports. As well as the usual tourist sites, the taster tours of every port we stopped in took in off-piste stops like atmospheric local temples and bustling food markets piled high with local produce like lemon grass, galangal, fresh turmeric and chillies. Serious foodies signed up for visits to cooking schools, spice plantations and street food markets with a chance to cook or eat traditional local dishes on site. In Sihanoukville, I made fish amok and crispy banh xeo shrimp pancakes in a chef training institute. In Ho Chi Minh, it was vegetarian pho noodle soup after a tour of Ben Thanh Market. And on a village farm near Hoi An, I cooked field-to-fork style with homegrown organic produce. In Hue, local chef Hoang Thi Nhu gives a personally guided experience of market flavours, tastes and aromas before cooking lunch in her home. You can sip coffee on
the streets of Hanoi, snack on prawn spring rolls in the floating fishing village of Long Vieng in Halong Bay, slurp crab noodle soup in Hai Phong and take a green tea break visiting the Tai Po ‘wet’ market of Hong Kong. Back on board, nothing is too much trouble for the rainbow nation staff. Chef Edward told me there are 22 nationalities in the galley responsible for the culinary delights I enjoyed like a zingy lobster pad Thai, buttersoft bistecca fiorentina and all five courses of the ‘La Route Des Indes’ spice-infused tasting menu at Chef ’s Table. Orion’s Kitchen Table experience involves visiting a local market with a chef to haggle for exotic ingredients then cooking and eating them latter in the cooking-demo space back on board. On days at sea, the expansive sun and sport decks, two pools and al fresco terraces of the World Café and Pool Grill made it easy to enjoy the tropical climate cooled by the sea breeze. At night, I took full advantage of all the pleasures below deck like at the sauna, snow grotto and oversize thalassotherapy pool in the Nordic Spa followed by the deepest of deep-tissue Swedish massages. If I missed any of the daily lectures or TED talks in the lecture theatre, they were also available on my cabin TV. The main pool converted into a nocturnal outdoor ‘silent’ cinema using Bose headphones, and a futuristic retractable roof was ready to slide into action if rain threatened to stop play. Unique to Orion is a state-of-the-art planetarium with 3D films on space exploration and an astrological telescope for star-gazing sessions with an astronomer. While star-filled skies cannot be guaranteed, spectacular sunrises can, some with a full moon added on 첸
OPPOSITE FROM TOP A man with woven baskets cycles through the countryside in Vietnam. Halong Bay with its limestone islands
Wa y s a n d M e a n s Chris Caldicott travelled as a guest of Viking Cruises (vikingcruises.co.uk; 0800 298 9700). Prices from £5,790pp in a Veranda Stateroom for a 15-night Southeast Asia cruise, including return flights from UK and use of the spa, Wi-Fi, all entertainment/lectures, meals in all restaurants, taster tours, wine, beer and soft drinks with meals and room service. Similar departures in April 2019. DESTINATIONS 2019 73
Land Of lava and lemon groves THE EAST COAST OF SICILY IS DOMINATED BY MOUNT ETNA. WHETHER PEOPLE WATCHING IN CHI-CHI TAORMINA OR SIGHTSEEING IN BAROQUE CATANIA, VISITORS WILL BE CONSCIOUS OF ITS SMOKY PEAK AS A REFERENCE POINT FOR THE WHOLE REGION TEXT ARTA GHANBARI | PHOTOGRAPHS OIVIND HAUG
OPPOSITE A street-side gelateria by a park in Catania offers respite from the heat THIS PAGE An elegant Baroque faรงade seen through palm fronds. The city was completely rebuilt in that style after a major earthquake in 1693
DESTINATIONS 2019 75
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Isola Bella, an island once privately owned by a relative of Queen Victoria, is also known as the Pearl of the Ionian Sea. A sweep of coastline close to Taormina. Jacarandas frame a residential street in Catania. Protected by the bay and the mountains, the shingle beach beneath Taormina is one of the area’s prettiest. The town attracts holidaying high-rollers, and is well worth visiting for its ancient theatre, people watching and stunning setting. DH Lawrence lived here in the Twenties
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The current appearance of the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Agatha, in Catania, dates from 1711, when Gian Battista Vaccarini designed a new Baroque faรงade. An archetypal hill village, Castiglioni di Sicilia lies just north of Etna. A grand Gothic window in the village of Giarre. A charming hand-painted sign in Castiglioni di Sicilia. The fertile volcanic soils around Mount Etna, which covers some 1,190 square kilometres, support extensive agriculture, especially vineyards and orchards
DESTINATIONS 2019 77
T
he storm from earlier that afternoon has come to a stop. Light pierces through the cracks in the sky. A song full of memories plays on the radio between brash Italian pop. I chose to take the longer route to Taormina to drive alongside the sea, with only olive groves, vineyards and the occasional mountain tunnel obstructing my view. The road is mostly empty, and to my left are brown villages rising to the skirts of Etna. She rules this land, in her billow of smoke, threatening to erupt at any moment. Few places sink through your bones and remain on your mind the way Sicily does. Its intoxicating beauty is far from perfect and unapologetically raw. Fine examples of Baroque architecture remain in dense concentration in the south-east – in Syracuse, Noto, Modica and Ragusa. There are Greek temples, seven in fact, in Agrigento in the south-west. In the north, Palermo, the chaotic capital, is juxtaposed by calm coastal cities like Cefalù and Trapani. Sicily keeps pulling me in. I’m back to visit the east, and with Etna now behind me, I can see Taormina on the hilltop in the distance. Sicily is spoiled with good beaches, and I keep a swimming costume in the car for when one appears. The beach below Taormina’s cliffs is pebbly but pristine, and faces Isola Bella, the former island of Florence Trevelyan, a relative of Queen Victoria; the English gardener built a house here and imported exotic plants for its grounds. The narrow, steep road up to Taormina is not for the faint of heart. The town is one of the most beautiful in Sicily, and it’s no secret. On either side of the main road are steps taking you off the tourist trail to quiet hidden courtyards lined with gelato shops and restaurants smelling of roasted aubergine and garlic. The settlement also has an impressive ancient Greek theatre from the third century BC, perched spectacularly at the top of the town and still in use; what’s more, it’s overlooked by Etna, the highest and most active volcano in Europe. In true Sicilian grandeur, my home for the next few days is the aristocratic residence Don Arcangelo all’Olmo in the village of Giarre, perfectly positioned between Taormina and Catania, and Etna and the sea. Its current owners, Andrea and Marina, Marquis and Marquess Paterno’ Castello di San Giuliano, are passionate travellers who have spent much of their lives abroad in South America, the Caribbean and Asia. Evidence of this is seen throughout the interior, with antiques and bibelots dotted about in every room. Don Arcangelo’s history dates back to the 1700s. It was built in different stages through to the mid-nineteenth century, when Marina’s ancestor, Baron don Arcangelo Calanna, constructed a home for himself here. ‘The estate was originally a vineyard,’ explains Marina. ‘The part lived in by Don Arcangelo was on the first floor, while on the ground floor were stables and storerooms.’ When he died, the house was left abandoned for over 100 years until the Nineties, when Marina’s father gave her the estate after she’d returned from travels with Andrea. So began their imprint on its history. Don Arcangelo required a long and complicated restoration. Marina and Andrea took this as a chance to update the layout of the rooms for twenty-first-century living, keeping as much of the original features as possible, and the vineyard was replanted with citrus groves. The garden was another labour of love, created by Andrea from a blank slate. The result is a deeply relaxing space, where different varieties of jasmine have been planted, bougainvillaea appears in white, lilac, orange and red, and chicas and centuriesold washingtonia palms, which were already on the estate, rub shoulders. Don Arcangelo is the perfect launchpad for elegant Catania, 45 minutes south. Here the streets are heaving with stylish youth, pouring out of bars for aperitivi, cigarettes and conversation. Local life is most evident in the restaurant alleys on Via Etna and Via Santa Filomena near the cathedral, which faces the famous Elephant Fountain – the symbol of Catania. The calmer Piazzo Roma has kiosks selling good espresso, beer and limoncello, with benches below a statue of Vittorio Emanuele II, former king of Sardinia. Strange to think the birthplace of Bellini is the trendiest place on the island (there are massive gardens as well as the imposing Teatro Massimo Bellini dedicated to the composer). But that’s just it – nothing is as you expect in Sicily 첸
Wa y s a n d M e a n s Don Arcangelo all’Olmo accommodates up to 24 guests and is available to let through villa specialist The Thinking Traveller (thethinkingtraveller.com). Prices from €15,460 per week. Avis offers car hires throughout Sicily, including at Catania Airport (avis.co.uk)
OPPOSITE FROM TOP One of 12 bedrooms at Don Arcangelo all’Olmo. Colourful kilims lie on venerable lava-stone floors in one of several reception areas. The terraced gardens are filled with the scent of jasmine and bougainvillaea THIS PAGE From the limpid waters of the 18 x 8 metre heated pool, one can enjoy panoramic views towards Etna
DESTINATIONS 2019 79
Open horizons BREATHTAKING COLOURS, EXTRAORDINARY SCENERY AND MEMORABLE ENCOUNTERS WITH WILDLIFE, COMBINED WITH RELAXING STAYS IN LUXURIOUS LODGES, MAKE EXPLORING THE NORTHERN NAMIBIAN DESERT AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE THAT WILL LEAVE A LASTING IMPRESSION TEXT LISA GRAINGER | PHOTOGRAPHS PHILIP LEE HARVEY
OPPOSITE Seen in a dust haze, a herd of springbok travel through the Kaokoveld desert in Kaokoland, northern Namibia THIS PAGE A woman of the Himba tribe from the Kunene Region of northern Namibia, who use otjize – a paste created from a mixture of butterfat and ochre pigments – on their skin and hair to protect themselves from the harsh desert climate and for decorative purposes
DESTINATIONS 2019 81
TOP ROW FROM LEFT The interior of Hoanib Camp by the Hoanib river on northern Namibia’s Skeleton Coast. The Kunene river and mountains of the Hartmann Valley in northern Namibia. The swimming pool and camp at Hoanib BOTTOM ROW FROM LEFT An aerial view of the deserted Skeleton Coast. The shade of a large tree provides relief from the heat for a giraffe near the Hoanib River. Tables overlooking the Kunene river at Serra Cafema Camp in the Hartmann Valley 82 DESTINATIONS 2019
THIS PAGE A desert elephant near the Hoanib river on the Skeleton Coast of northern Namibia
It’s this rare luxury of being surrounded only by nature that makes Namibia such a treat to visit
W
hen I close my eyes and think of Namibia, it’s not people or animals or lodges that come to mind. It’s colours. Rust-orange dunes rising up from cracked white pans. Sapphire skies brushed with streaks of apricot dust at sunset. Layers of hazy blue mountains. Purple and pink striped rocks. A single black volcano in a dustbowl of yellow. Then it’s memories of the vast spaces that invade my head. Although Namibia is the size of France and the UK combined, the southwest African country is the second least populated on earth (after Mongolia). That’s because it’s dry – very dry. There are deserts to its west (the Namib) and east (the Kalahari), arid mountains running through its core, and not a single permanent river. What that means for the visitor is that, other than in its capital, Windhoek, and a few farms, camps and seaside towns, there are few urban distractions from the country’s spectacular raw landscapes and blue skies. It’s this rare luxury of being surrounded only by nature that makes Namibia such a treat to visit. Drive through the country and on most days you’ll probably pass only a handful of cars on the (good) gravel roads. Fly on one of the dozens of tiny single- and twin-prop planes that flit guests around like winged taxis and you will be glued to the plane’s window, marvelling at the hundreds of miles of ever-moving dunes in the Namib Desert, after which the country is named; at the deep fissures of the Fish River in the south; at the seemingly never-ending beaches of the Skeleton Coast; and at the expanses of naked earth in the remote Kunene: the long black granite ridges, the burnt-looking mountains, the vast tracts of orange dust etched with riverbeds that dried out millennia ago. Namibia has long had its fans: mainly South Africans in search of peace (the desert country has just 2.5 million people, compared with 56 million further south) and Germans, who in 1889 colonised the African nation until 1915 and still make up a significant percentage of the small white population. But, in the past five years, other nationalities have also begun to take notice of it, too, and tourist numbers have increased by a third, to 1.5 million, since 2012. Why is this? Not only because of better connections to Windhoek via Germany, Doha and Johannesburg, as well as a growing awareness that the dry parts of the country are largely disease-free and safe. But also, says
Chris McIntyre, founder of Expert Africa and author of the Bradt guide to Namibia, because more people than ever yearn to escape the stresses of cities and technology, and want to have proper outdoor adventures away from it all – particularly if there are comfortable camps in which to rest on the way. Which, this year, there are. As well as a handful of old favourites on the classic tourist trail, such as Serra Cafema, Ongava, Okonjima, Sossusvlei Lodge and Kulala Desert Lodge, several new camps have opened, giving visitors not only other smart places to stay, but previously inaccessible regions to explore. Half an hour’s drive outside Windhoek, for instance, two old cattle farms have been converted into wilderness boutique hotels that are ideal for a couple of nights before or after long flights. Otjimbondona, owned by the seasoned flying-safari couple Wilfried and Anita Slaney, is now probably the capital’s most private upmarket escape, with four enormous stone and glass villas, each with plungepool and shaded sala, while Omaanda is the hip new airport option, with its shaggythatch bush suites and polished cuisine. While they are welcome additions to a capital with scant luxury accommodation, it is properties in the country’s northern deserts that are particularly exciting Namibiaphiles. The Skeleton Coast is, as its name suggests, one of the most desolate places on earth: an isolated stretch of almost 500km of deserted windblown Atlantic beaches, dunes and fog, with only an occasional seal, cormorant or shipwreck to break the monotony. It’s here, at the mouth of the ephemeral Hoarusib River, that local eco-architect Nina Maritz has constructed one of the continent’s most unusual hotels, Shipwreck Lodge. Designed to evoke the ‘bones’ of a wreck, the wooden, ten-bedroomed ocean-themed lodge gives travellers both a cosy spot in which to hunker in the fog and a convenient base from which to explore the dunes, clay ‘castles’ and desert ecology of the river valleys inland. From there it’s just a seven-hour drive (a hop, skip and jump in a country this big) to the comfortable new Hoanib Valley Camp, to try to spot extremely rare populations of desert-adapted giraffe, lion and elephant. Extra-lucky guests might even bump into a nomadic clan of beautifully adorned Himba, who live exclusively on meat and milk and foraged leaves. If their simple huts, white teeth, glowing skin and strong upright bodies don’t give you a reality check, nothing will 첸
Wa y s a n d M e a n s Lisa Grainger visited Namibia as a guest of Expert Africa (expertafrica.com; 020-3405 6666). A 14-day luxury self-drive safari in Namibia costs from £4,450 per person based on two sharing, including car hire and most meals and activities 84 DESTINATIONS 2019
XXXXXXXXX
THIS PAGE The welcoming sight of Serra Cafema Camp on the Kunene river in northern Namibia’s Hartmann Valley
OLD MEETS NEW HISTORY, MYSTERY AND FASCINATING CULTURE INTERTWINE IN JAPAN, ATTRACTING TRAVELLERS TO SEE ITS SHRINES AND TEMPLES, VIBRANT CITIES, TASTE ITS MANY REGIONAL FOODS AND EXPERIENCE ITS ENCHANTING NATURAL BEAUTY. STAR JAPANESE PHOTOGRAPHER YUMA YAMASHITA TRAVELS TO TOKYO, OSAKA, KYOTO AND NIKKO TO CAPTURE THE ESSENCE OF HIS COUNTRY AND DOCUMENT THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN OLD AND NEW JAPAN PHOTO EASSY BY YUMA YAMASHITA
TOKYO THE CAPITAL IS FULL OF INTERESTING CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS AND PLAYS HOST TO MANY EVENTS A variety of events have been held in Japan based on the 24 seasons (or sekki) of the old calendar. As the landscape in Tokyo changes in preparation for the 2020 Summer Olympics, I captured people experiencing the seasons through the senses. Ueno in the Taitō Ward, pictured opposite, is crowded with many people for the New Year’s sale. This area is home to many cultural hotspots in Tokyo, including museums, a large concert hall and
a famous park. In nearby Asakusa, pictured top right, where you’ll find the Sensō-ji Buddhist temple, cherry blossoms make the old townscape all the more attractive. In summer, there are many local festivals to see in Tokyo. Here is the picture of the Awa Dance Festival, pictured top left, that I saw in Shimokitazawa. I find the contrast between the things that have changed with the times and the things that remain the same extremely interesting. DESTINATIONS 2019 87
OSAKA OSAKA’S BUSY PULSE IS BALANCED WITH HISTORIC TEMPLES AND SERENE LANDSCAPES I feel as if I’ve travelled abroad every time I go to Osaka. The culture here is clearly different from the one in Tokyo. Described as the city of humanity, I feel there is more of a connection between people in Osaka. The picture on the page opposite was taken in the bar-lined area of Tenma, also
home to the famous Tenmangu Shrine, from which the neighbourhood got its name. On this page, the picture was taken at Katsuo-ji-temple located away from the urban hustle and bustle of Osaka in Minō to the north. It is off-the-beaten track of the tourist trail in this part of Japan.
DESTINATIONS 2019 89
90 DESTINATIONS 2019
KYOTO
NIKKO
TRANQUILLITY IN SCENES OF OLD JAPAN
TRADITIONAL CRAFTS AND LOCAL FOOD
This picture of the landscape in Kyoto, seen top left, was taken in the early morning. Taking pictures of Kyoto at this peaceful time, before the streets become full, is like meditation. I recommend walking around Kyoto at sunrise. Fushimi Inari Shrine, seen top right, is one of the most impressive. The woman wearing a kimono, pictured opposite, is sprinkling water in the streets and gardens as a way of purification. It is a symbol of hospitality towards guests.
I feel good in seeing and experiencing the old days of Japan through places such as Kyoto and Nikko. In Nikko, a well-kept secret in the Tochigi Prefecture, traditional crafts still remain, and I’ve learned a lot from seeing things being handmade rather than mass produced. The man pictured bottom left is making geta sandals. Nikko is also known for soba noodles, served chilled or in a soup. While you’re here, see the important Toshogu Shinto.
SCRAPBOOK CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The bar at Le Sirenuse in Positano. ‘Lundy’ light designed by Martin for The Urban Electric Company. The Coral Room bar in London, which Martin designed. Kyoto’s Bamboo Forest; Japan is on the designer’s wish list for a project. A chair by Martin. The Capitoline Museums in Rome
Martin Brudnizki Where was the last place you travelled? I travel all the time for work, but from the pleasure side of things I spent a wonderful three weeks in Europe this summer. Starting in Hydra, a small island in Greece, my partner and I spent a week relaxing with friends in a sweet house with views out to the harbour. From there we flew to Italy and visited Ponza, a very small island off the west coast. It is a characterful place that feels like it’s from another time. Our final leg of the trip was in Rome, where we immersed ourselves in art and design. Where is next on your list? I have never been to Iceland and would love to explore the landscape and abundant nature. A friend of mine, Luca Marziale, has taken wonderful photography of the island and ever since seeing them I’ve been keen to visit. Why is travelling important? Every time I travel I am exposed to some kind of inspiration, whether it’s an iconic building, the natural stone of a local town or even the organic 92 DESTINATIONS 2019
form of the landscape. Subconsciously, I am constantly taking everything in and storing it in my mind. I may not use that particular bit of inspiration for years but it’s banked away for the right moment. The best hotel bar for a cocktail? Nothing beats the bar at Le Sirenuse in Positano. The view from the balcony down to the town and beach is iconic and I love being able to watch everyone going about their lives. Where is your dream location to design a hotel? My eyes are now set on the east: I’d love to design a hotel in China or Hong Kong, or perhaps even in Japan. The approach to the design would be very different and it’s a completely new culture to me so it would be a great challenge. Martin Brudnizki Design Studio: mbds.com 첸
ROBERTO SALOMONE; AGE FOTOSTOCK; ADAM EASTLORD; ALAMY
THE DESIGNER OF THE MOMENT REVEALS HIS TRAVEL INSPIRATIONS
HEALTH JUST GOT BETTER. Cleansing for body, mind and soul: purify and detoxify with the proven healing methods around the powerful detox treatments according to Dr. med. F.X. Mayr. Improve your physical and mental well-being in acres of spectacular parkland and abundant fresh air. book now: www.graeflicher-park.com/en | Tel.: +49 5253 9523-0
UTUMN/ L A E X U L E D IA OX SPEC T E D R E s T t nigh in a WIN ate plus 3
at r b o a rd Medical fl . Mayr full .X F d n a m oo superior r p.P.
999 €
from Oc
till the tober 2018
end of Jan
uar y 2019
BOOK NOW: WWW.GRAEFLICHER-PARK.COM/EN