Edible Madison 55 • Winter 2023 by Edible Madison

WI N TE R 2023

Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in Southern Wisconsin

The Dairy Issue • Landjäger • The Guide to Giving Local A member of Edible Communities

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BONE-IN HALF HAM PURELY ORGANIC: Raised ethically and organically on our small family farms. SMOKED TO PERFECTION: Made in small batches only a few times a year!

SAVORY MUSTARD HERB HAM INGREDIENTS 1 Organic Prairie Ham 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon organic black pepper 1 teaspoon organic parsley 1 teaspoon organic thyme 2 tablespoons organic spicy brown mustard 1 tablespoon organic apple cider vinegar 5 organic garlic cloves, minced organic fresh parsley, for serving organic orange slices, for serving

DIRECTIONS 1. Make sure your Organic Prairie Ham is thawed. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Add the ham to a 5.5 quart Dutch oven or baking dish, cut side down. 3. In a small dish, add the salt, pepper, parsley, and thyme and mix together. Set aside. 4. In another small dish, add the spicy brown mustard, apple cider vinegar, and garlic cloves. Stir together. Add in the spices, and stir together. 5. Using your hands, rub the spice mix over the entire ham. 6. Cover the ham with foil lightly. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour or until the internal temperature is 140°F. 7. Remove foil and turn oven to 400°F and bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes, to brown the ham.

Get more delicious recipes at www.organicprairie.com/blogs/recipes

WINTER 2023

•

ISSUE 55

dairy “Dairy is our past, our present, and you butter believe it’ll be a key part of our future success.” ― GOVERNOR TONY EVERS

STARTERS The Future of Dairy in Dairyland by Marissa DeGroot Grazing into the Future by Hannah Wente

13 THE GUIDE TO GIVING LOCAL by Lauren Rudersdorf Sponsored Content

20 PAVING THE WHEY By Maija Inveiss

24 SOMEONE STILL LOVES YOU, LABNEH by Michael Sambar

28 NOURISH Gut Check, Making the Case for A2 Dairy by Laura Poe Mathes

34 COOK AT HOME A Very Dairy Holiday Season by Lauren Rudersdorf

38 LINKS TO THE PAST & PRESENT by Jesse Raub

46 BACK OF HOUSE Artisanal Butter Adventures by Qwantese Dourese Winters

50 EAT & DRINK GUIDE Sponsored Content

54 SUPPORTERS 56 RECIPE INDEX 57 LAST BITE Above: Jersey cow in the snow. Photo by Andrew Hetke Photography. Cover: Chèvre Cheesecake with Cardamom Shortbread. Photo by Sunny Frantz.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 1

EDITOR’S LETTER

Whether you have a glass of milk with every dinner or are lactose intolerant, live surrounded by a chorus of mooing or the buzz of the city, it’s undeniable that the dairy industry touches all of our lives in Wisconsin. Dairy has shaped the history of our state with dairy farming starting to replace heavy wheat production in the mid-19th century as depleted soils, pests and cheaper wheat from western states made it a

Roasted Garlic and Parsley Compound Butter INGREDIENTS 1 head garlic 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped ¼ teaspoon salt, optional

less viable industry. By 1899, over 90 percent of Wisconsin farms were raising dairy cows. Wisconsin’s dairy industry continued to thrive thanks in part to New Yorkers and Europeans

DIRECTIONS 1. Slice off a quarter inch from the top of the head of garlic and discard. Drizzle the garlic with olive oil, then wrap completely in foil.

settling in the state, bringing with them commercial dairy skills and a deep love for but-

Roast in a 400-degree F oven for 40–50 min-

ter and especially cheese. That love continues to this day with Wisconsin producing

utes or until the garlic is soft. Remove from

over 3.5 billion pounds of cheese annually, making it the number one producer in the

the oven and allow it to cool. Scoop the roast-

U.S. The state also ranks first in the nation for number of dairy farms and dairy goats.

ed garlic cloves out of the peel and set aside.

But beyond dairy’s economic and social impact, it also has deep ties in our everyday lives. Whatever Wisconsin weather throws our way, we seem to have a dairy solution for it—a creamy scoop of ice cream during a summer heat wave or a steaming cup of cocoa on a frozen February night. We soothe our babies with a warm bottle of milk and we celebrate with buttercream covered cake—or in my case just the butter! Forty-eight hours before our wedding, my then-fiancé Tommy, our close friend Mark and I churned heavy cream into butter using the hand-crank butter churn passed down

2. Pour the heavy whipping cream into a hand butter churn, blender or stand mixer. You can also use a hand mixer or put the cream in a jar with a lid and shake by hand. Mix until the butterfat separates from the liquid. This could take 5 to 10 minutes with a mixer and longer by hand. 3. Once the butter has solidified, pour off the

by Mark’s grandmother. Vows needed to be written and suits ironed, but feeding our

buttermilk (which can be saved for other rec-

guests homemade roasted garlic and parsley butter was how we showed our love.

ipes). Scoop the butter into a bowl and rinse

Love, passion and drive flows through all the stories in this winter issue of Edible Madison celebrating dairy in its many forms. Laura Poe Mathes’ enthusiasm for A2 dairy oozes from her column (page 28) and Qwantese Dourese Winters shares about Landmark Creamery’s devotion to handcrafted products made from locally sourced ingredients (page 46).

it by pouring ice water over it while pressing out the remaining buttermilk with a spatula. Repeat until the water runs clear, and drain any remaining liquid. 4. Add the parsley, roasted garlic cloves and salt (optional) to the butter and mix with a spat-

This winter we’re raising a creamy glass in honor of the farmers, producers, animals and

ula. To store, spoon the butter onto a sheet of

communities that make up America’s Dairyland.

wax or parchment paper, form it into a log and wrap tightly. Store in the refrigerator.

Cheers,

Marissa DeGroot, Managing Editor

Be sure to check out ediblemadison.com for exclusive online content, like Local UpStarts, a quarterly digital column that celebrates local entrepreneurs who have participated in the Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation’s UpStart program, a free entrepreneurship program for women and people of color. This winter, we profile Manuel Altúzar, owner of Globaltranz Consulting.

• WINTER 2023

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EDIBLEMADISON.COM 3

CONTRIBUTORS MARISSA DEGROOT Marissa feels fortunate to be a part of our local food system as the managing editor of Edible Madison as well as working for Vitruvian Farms, her husband Tommy's organic vegetable and mushroom farm. She loves raising their daughter, Ollie, and their team of fur babies on the farm in McFarland.

QWANTESE DOURESE WINTERS Qwantese is a writer and doula known lovingly as “the food doula” for her incorporation of foodways into her practice. She is also a farmer turned gardener who teaches Wisconsinites all about how to grow veggies and tend their gardens on the PBS Wisconsin show “Let’s Grow Stuff.”

MANAGING EDITOR Marissa DeGroot PUBLISHERS Christy McKenzie Cricket Redman BUSINESS DIRECTOR Christy McKenzie

SUNNY FRANTZ

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Cricket Redman

Sunny is an editorial and commercial photographer with a studio on the west side of Madison where she lives with her husband, their two kids and a tiny dog. She specializes in food and product photography and loves the opportunity it gives her to connect with the many wonderful businesses and entrepreneurs in Madison.

SALES DIRECTOR Lauren Rudersdorf

MAIJA INVEISS

LAYOUT & PRODUCTION Nicole Peaslee

Maija is a freelance writer in Madison. She spends her days as an MBA graduate student at the Wisconsin School of Business, but before that spent five years working at Madison Magazine. In her free time, she enjoys trying new restaurants and bars, macraméing, reading and fangirling over people’s dogs.

COPY EDITOR Andrea Debbink CULINARY ADVISOR Christy McKenzie

LAURA POE MATHES Laura is a private practice dietitian specializing in digestive health and traditional foods diets. She is also a new mama, fermentation and foraging enthusiast and lazy canoer. Originally from Missouri, Laura currently lives in the Driftless region of Wisconsin and now understands why cheese curds are a thing.

JESSE RAUB Jesse is a writer for Serious Eats, a former coffee professional and an amateur bread baker. He lives in Madison and spends his free time attempting fussy dough-based recipes along with walking his dog.

CRICKET REDMAN Cricket is an avid gardener, artist and designer and messy cook. By day she runs Cricket Design Works and by night she is the creative director and partner of Edible Madison. In 1993, she moved to Madison for grad school at UW-Madison and fell in love with the snowy winters, Driftless landscape and her now-husband and business partner Phil.

MICHAEL SAMBAR Michael was raised just outside Milwaukee on a well-balanced diet of skateboarding, family road trips and weekend walks in the forest. He is a graphic designer and illustrator by profession, and in his free time he enjoys mushroom hunting, analog photography, playing drums, synthesizer-ing, cooking and growing vegetables.

SHARON VANORNY Sharon is a Madison-area photographer who has one husband, one cat and one kid. She loves shooting editorials, headshots, weddings, events and families. The balance makes her heart happy. She also loves a wild card person and capturing a good wild card moment.

HANNAH WENTE Hannah grew up as a 4-H kid on the shores of Lake Michigan. She is a freelance writer and graphic designer based in Madison. In her previous role as communications director for REAP Food Group, she helped launch the new statewide Farm Fresh Atlas project and supported farm-to-school and farm-to-business efforts. When she’s not gardening, cooking or baking, you can find her playing ultimate frisbee or paddling the nearest lake. 4

• WINTER 2023

SOCIAL & DIGITAL PRODUCER Lauren Rudersdorf ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIPS Lauren Rudersdorf laurenr@ediblemadison.com DRIFTLESS REGIONAL SALES MANAGER Kristen Wagner kristen@ediblemadison.com CONTACT US Edible Madison 4313 Somerset Lane Madison, WI 53711 hello@ediblemadison.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscriptions are available beginning at $35 annually. Learn more at ediblemadison.com/subscribe. We want to hear your comments and ideas. To write to the editor, use the mailing address above or email hello@ediblemadison.com. Edible Madison is published quarterly by Forager Publishing, LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission by the publisher. ©2023

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us. Thank you. VISIT US ONLINE AT EDIBLEMADISON.COM

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EDIBLEMADISON.COM 5

by Marissa DeGroot

The Future of Dairy in Dairyland

Industry experts share their thoughts on the future of dairy in Wisconsin, challenges that farms and producers face, and some lesser known industry happenings.

e a d s th e w l e s a ee

“We tend to think of milk in a carton, butter and ice cream as the main dairy products

The reality is that we now

people eat.

consume much more milk in the form of cheese than as a beverage.” —Chuck Nicholson, Associate Professor, Animal and Dairy Sciences UW–Madison

“In Wisconsin, 90% of our milk is made into cheese, and Wisconsin makes over half of the country’s specialty cheese.” —Chad Vincent

“Wisconsin cheese can be found in more than 100 countries today, and the demand and awareness is getting stronger every day. Growth opportunities continue to exist both domestically and internationally, particularly in Asia, the Middle East and North Africa along with our neighbors in Canada and Mexico.”

Chad Vincent CEO Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin Chad is the CEO at Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin, an organization that leads efforts to build demand for and awareness of Wisconsin’s nearly $50 billion dairy agriculture business.

• WINTER 2023

Illustrations by Cricket Redman

—Chad Vincent

“Between land, equipment and labor, dairy farms

so u c Fo

n E f fi c i e n

have lots of expenses. Not everyone has access to the working capital needed to run a dairy farm that can withstand the market volatility. Prices won’t come down, so farms are challenged to get creative with their business model so they can survive and thrive.” —Maria Woldt, Program Manager. Dairy Innovation Hub

“I think we’ll see …a smaller number of larger dairy farms with more productive cows. We’re likely to see a similar pattern in dairy processing, with fewer but larger dairy plants. We’ll still have smaller farms on the landscape (especially organic and grazing dairies) and smaller dairy

to b e

S u s ta i n a b l e

plants making specialty products (especially cheese here in Wisconsin).” — Chuck Nicholson

“We are also likely to see shifts nationally in where dairy farms and plants are located, as both where people live and the climate change. More dairying will likely occur in locations with cooler climates and more water—like the upper Midwest.” —Chuck Nicholson

Chuck Nicholson Associate Professor of Animal and Dairy Sciences UW–Madison Chuck is an agricultural economist with more than 20 years of research and outreach focused on dairy industry issues for farms, the post-farm supply chain and policymakers. His position at UW–Madison is supported by the Dairy Innovation Hub.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 7

n i t

a ti o n v o n In

In v

“The dairy industry has developed incredible technology that allows dairy farmers to increase efficiency on the farm while simultaneously maximizing cow comfort and care.” —Ashley Hagenow

“This can look like robotic milking systems that are installed right where cows eat and rest. It also might look like monitoring cow health with activity monitors.” —Ashley Hagenow

“Technology also comes in the form of methane digesters that turn cow waste into energy to power dairy farms!” —Ashley Hagenow

“Overall, technology in the dairy industry ensures that cows are kept happy and healthy while making the lives of dairy farmers easier.” —Ashley Hagenow

Ashley Hagenow 76th Alice in Dairyland As Wisconsin's agriculture ambassador, Ashley’s goal is to educate audiences across Wisconsin about the importance of our state's diverse agriculture industry, the impact it has in our daily lives and its economic impact on the state’s economy.

• WINTER 2023

Di v

... f

si t

“Did you know that methane production is actually an inherited trait? It’s even more heritable than milk production. UW is working to determine which cows produce the least methane. And from that group, which cows can also produce a lot of milk, relative to how much they eat. And by the way, it’s not genetic engineering—or lab-creating anything, it’s just identifying the individuals who are already doing this and selectively breeding those individuals. No different than any other desirable trait. But we can’t see methane production, so UW scientists have to use specialized equipment to determine the amount of methane each cow burps!” —Maria Woldt

n g. . . i d e e Br

or a

b e t te r En vi r

e m n

e w h ay t s i y “The future of the dairy community includes diversity—in farm size, in ownership, management and business philosophy, product line-up and an increase in decision-making tools for people to make better, more informed decisions.” —Maria Woldt

Maria Woldt Program Manager, Dairy Innovation Hub Maria assists in the management of the Hub, which harnesses research and development for Wisconsin’s dairy community. She and husband Nick own and operate a 55-cow dairy farm in Dane County along with daughters Lexington and Giovanna.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 9

Grazing into the Future By Hannah Wente

At Paris Family Farm, the cows are three hours into grazing—the

The land is split into 22 paddocks of three acres, then split into one-

sound is soothing as you hear the smack of lips and the crush of

acre sections using flexible poly wire (with an electric charge). Cows

fresh grass being evenly munched.

eat one paddock for three or four days, deposit manure and then the

The move from conventional farming to a grazing-based operation happened in 1993—the same year Bert Paris attended a grazing

land rests for 30 days. This is so the animals don’t eat the new plant growth that comes back around day three.

conference in Wisconsin Dells. His wife Trish said he returned

When do cows need a new plot of land to chew? “It’s kind of a gut

to their Belleville farm with “eyes lit on fire” at the prospect

feeling—it depends on the weather, rain and shade,” says Paris.

of a farming technique that was less time-intensive and more

“That’s what I love about grazing—how much it challenges me

environmentally conscious.

professionally. There’s something different to try every day.”

“As a kid, I don’t remember us conventional farming at all,” says

Two major issues facing the dairy industry are overproduction of

daughter Meagan Farrell. “I was four when we started grazing.

milk, which suppresses its price, and a loss of infrastructure like

Growing up I thought, ‘What does my dad even do? Schedule a nap, eat

suppliers, buyers and repair people. The good news is the grass-

lunch, then take a nap?’ He never missed one of my sporting events.” If you’ve ever worked on a dairy farm, you know it’s manual labor involving moving grain/hay to feed troughs and around-the-clock milkings. In these set-ups, waste is concentrated—contributing to air and water pollution. Farrell ran a nonprofit for seven years, but four years into the professional world she felt something was missing. She came back to the farm to reconnect with the land and co-manage the 300-plus acre farm with her dad. Paris Family Farm is certified organic and working on implementing regenerative agricultural practices. This starts with increasing diversity in pastures. Healthier soil allows plants to grow stronger so there’s less need for weed management and fertilizers. It also allows the plants to absorb more carbon and be more resilient to the effects of climate change like drought and excess moisture. Because soils can store three times more carbon than living plants and animals, the way we manage land is critical in the global carbon cycle. (See author's note.) USDA Organic standards require that organic dairy cows spend a minimum of 120 days on pasture and receive at least 30% of their diet from fresh pasture grasses. The Paris’ 75 cows can typically graze from March through December and sometimes even into January. The cows return to the barn twice each day for milking and

fed dairy market is growing. Grassland 2.0 is an initiative by the University of Wisconsin–Madison to invest in rural places like Paris Family Farm. The idea is that creating healthy, thriving farms results in better rural communities by decreasing run-off into drinking water and risk of flooding, while improving biodiversity and the local economy. Basically, when these farms succeed, rural communities succeed. Putting profits over yields is key to the sustainable farming journey. For example, the Paris family was able to get rid of heavy machinery like tractors–drastically decreasing on-farm CO2 emissions but also decreasing fuel, maintenance and equipment costs. “It’s not about milk production, it’s about profits,” says Paris. “My herd in 1992, each cow produced 20,000 pounds of milk per year. Now the cows make 10,000 pounds of milk per year. Back then, we got 50 cents to a dollar per hundred. Now we get $5 to 10 per hundred.” The farm is producing half the amount of milk, but profits are five to ten times greater when adjusted for inflation due to less machinery costs, lower vet bills, low to no feed cost, among other reasons. A major barrier for farmers adopting environmentally-friendly practices is a misconception about the amount of time it will take or an unwillingness to change. But if that farming technique actually results in fewer inputs, less labor and lower equipment costs, along with increased consumer demand, it’s more likely to be adopted.

water. When they’re out in the field, they’re chewing, digesting and

“It [grazing] helps you connect the animals to the land to consuming

then fertilizing the soil. This process sequesters carbon, reducing

a product,” says Farrell. And isn’t that what we all want? A more

greenhouse gas emissions typically associated with cattle farming.

relaxed farming lifestyle that’s more in tune with nature, and that

It also means synthetic fertilizers and herbicides do not need to

benefits the land and people who surround it.

be added. “This isn’t your grandpa’s grazing,” says Paris. “They [past farmers] didn’t have fencing so they would do one pasture per year, which would just get beat up over the course of a few months.”

Author's Note: Livestock is responsible for 14.5 percent of human-caused emissions globally, according to the United Nation’s Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). Carbon sequestration is complicated. While grazing sequesters, or pulls carbon from the environment, it requires up to 2.5 times more land than conventional farming. (Right page) Bert Paris with his herd headed toward fields of clover, bluegrass, orchard grass, brome grass, dandelion, chickpea and alfalfa.

• WINTER 2023

THE CASE FOR GRAZING-BASED OPERATIONS

The idea is that creating healthy, thriving farms results in better rural communities by decreasing run-off into drinking water and risk of flooding, while improving biodiversity and the local economy.

Photo courtesy of Finn Ryan

Basically, when these farms succeed, rural communities succeed.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 11

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THE GUIDE TO

Giving Local Here at Edible Madison, we believe the best gifts come from small, local businesses. Luckily, we live in a robust community of food artisans, small shops and skilled makers who make shopping nearby easy. Use these next pages as inspiration for a simpler and more intentional holiday season.

PRICING GUIDE $ (UNDER $20) $$ ($21-49) $$$ ($50-99) $$$$ ($100+)

Local Libations For the beverage lover in your life, there’s nowhere better than Wisconsin to discover something new and interesting. From locally roasted coffees to cocktail kits, cocktail classes and handcrafted teas, these beverage-themed options all make great gifts.

OLD SUGAR DISTILLERY GIFT BOXES

WONDERSTATE COFFEE GIFT SUBSCRIPTIONS

Old Sugar Distillery’s award-winning gift boxes have something for every palette, from the Brandy Old Fashioned Set (which pairs Old Sugar’s Brandy Station with housemade Door County cocktail cherries, Angostura bitters, and their own branded cocktail book) to their simple Bourbon & Bourbon Spiced Pecan Set. Beautifully packaged and ready to wrap, gift boxes are just $50 and can be picked up at their distillery tasting room on East Main Street in Madison.

For the friend who never wants to run out of high-quality, equitably sourced, organic coffee, a subscription from Wonderstate is in order. This 100% solar-powered roastery out of Viroqua sets the standard for paying farmers more. Choose the size, blend and grind you would like to send, and they'll deliver it right to the recipient’s door once a month for three, six or 12 months. From dark roasts to premium selections, this one will please just about any coffee drinker.

Old Sugar Distillery oldsugardistillery.com • $$$

GARVER LOUNGE COCKTAIL CLASSES

Everyone has that friend who loves to impress dinner guests with a specialty cocktail. For them, there’s no better gift than a cocktail class for two at the historic Garver Feed Mill on Madison’s near east side. The 2 to 3 hour class includes five cocktails, snacks by the Garver Kitchen, and recipes to take home. Cocktail class gift certificates can be purchased online and picked up or mailed. Garver Lounge garverlounge-preorder.square.site • $$$$

JBC COFFEE ROASTERS COFFEE

TELSAAN TEA’S HERBAL CHAI

For the serious coffee connoisseur in your life, a bag or two of something unique makes an excellent gift. JBC is an award-winning specialty coffee roaster in Madison that has been named one of the best in the nation by Gear Patrol and Forbes. Need help selecting a roast? Their Bella Carmona from fourth-generation Guatemalan coffee producer Luis Pedro Zelaya is sure to impress. It’s an easy-drinking coffee with tasting notes of apricot, agave and a Twix bar. Or grab a bag of their newly released Orange Bourbon: a direct-trade coffee from Wilton Benitez who is at the forefront of innovation in coffee processing.

This sweet little storefront in Mount Horeb has a lot of great gifts for the tea drinker in your life, but shop owner Erin Ulrich recommends their Herbal Chai dried tea as the perfect stocking stuffer this holiday season. She personally created this signature tea blend that’s caffeine-free and heavy on the cinnamon with hints of ginger, cardamom, clove and other spices. It’s great for people who are new to tea as well as tea lovers who are looking for something without caffeine, and it will fill your home with a festive aroma.

JBC Coffee Roasters jbccoffeeroasters.com • $$

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• WINTER 2023

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LOCAL CRAFT BEVERAGES

You already eat farm-to-table. Why not imbibe locally too? Try these Wisconsin beverage makers for some of the most creative refreshments around. BAILEY'S RUN VINEYARD & WINERY / Bailey’s Run is open seven days a week with Neapolitan pizzas and live music every weekend. baileysrunvineyardandwinery baileysrunvineyard.com

baileysrunvineyard

BALANCED ROCK WINERY / Family-owned boutique winery located on the doorstep of Devil’s Lake State Park. Stop in for wine, food, beer and music. balancedrockwinery balancedrockwinery balancedrockwinery.com

BRIX CIDER / Every bite and every sip at Brix Cider in Mount Horeb

supports the beautiful and bountiful community in which they reside.

DANCING GOAT DISTILLERY / Located 20 miles east of Madison in Cambridge, Dancing Goat Distillery is open for tours, tastings and a gin academy where guests craft their own bottle of gin. dancinggoatdistillery dancinggoat.com

dancinggoatdistillery

HERBIERY BREWING / LGBTQ+ owned brewery specializing in hop-free, herb- and spice-based beers brewed with the highest quality ingredients. Now with a taproom in the Atwood neighborhood. herbiery herbiery herbiery.com

brixcider brixcider brixcider.com

RUDE BREW KOMBUCHA / Small, craft kombucha brewery that utilizes locally grown fruits and herbs to flavor their brews. Now located in the Willy Street neighborhood in Madison.

THE CIDER FARM / Small-batch, family-owned and certified organic orchard growing English and French cider apples in Mineral Point for local cider and apple brandy.

rude_brew_kombucha rudebrewkombucha.com

the_cider_farm theciderfarm.com

theciderfarm

rudebrewkombucha

SUNSHINE BREWING COMPANY / Lake Mills brewery offering a wide variety of handcrafted beers, including a range of delicious Belgian-inspired brews and mouthwatering Mexican cuisine that pairs perfectly. sunshinebrewco sunshinebrewco sunshinebrewco.com

ADV ERT I SEMENT

BY MAIJA INVEISS

PAVING THE

Through a partnership with a northern Wisconsin distillery, Seven Acre Dairy Co. spotlights whey-based spirits.

At Paoli’s Seven Acre Dairy Co., where there’s a will, there’s a whey.

“Whey isn’t easy to deal with,” Basina says. “It has its own very unique

In this case, it was the team’s attempt to source and serve a whey-

properties. The lactose sugar does not like to ferment by conventional

based spirit.

fermentation methods.”

Chief restoration officer Nic Mink says he was interested in bringing

For Mink, the fact Basina was local to Wisconsin and using whey in

spirits made with whey—a byproduct in the cheesemaking process

vodka and gin was fortuitous. The talks for the partnership started at

after milk has curdled—to Seven Acre Dairy because of its strong

the beginning of 2023 and led to a June release of Cheese Cave Dave's

historical connection. The nearby Sugar River used to be a disposal

Whey Spirit, a neutral liquor that can be found only at Seven Acre Dairy.

site for whey, and the building was a former cheese factory that is now a restaurant, bar, cafe, hotel and microdairy.

To craft Cheese Cave Dave's and other whey spirits, Basina and his team at Copper Crow visit Burnett Dairy at least once a month to pick

“[Whey] is an incredibly valuable product. It’s rich in nutrients

up 750 gallons of whey. They then ferment the whey and go through

and offers a lot of unique culinary and drink properties, but isn’t

the distilling process. Once it is distilled, Copper Crow sends the spirit

necessarily utilized in the way that it potentially could be,” Mink says.

at a reasonable proof to Yahara Bay Distillers in Fitchburg.

The catch was Mink didn’t want to add a distillery to Seven Acre

Yahara Bay then bottles and labels it. From there, Yahara Bay sends

Dairy, so he needed a partnership. It turns out that Wisconsin is home

it to Seven Acre Dairy where they sell Cheese Cave Dave's by the

to one of the few distillers in North America who are creating whey-

bottle and serve it in cocktails like This Is The Whey, their version of

based spirits.

a piña colada, and The Cranberry Whey. The name comes from the

Six hours north in Bayfield is Copper Crow Distillery, the first Indigenous distiller in the United States. Co-owner Curt Basina, along with his wife Linda, started making whey-based spirits five years ago after craft beverage expert Rusty Figgins approached him at a beginner-level distillery class in Seattle. “He grabbed me and said, ‘Hey, you’re from Wisconsin, you’re from the Dairy State. You need to look at doing something with dairy,’” Basina says. “He said ‘If you figure it out and make it work, you’ll have a solid brand for Copper Crow Distillery,’ so I accepted Rusty’s challenge.” That challenge has made Copper Crow known across the country for being one of the few places making whey-based spirits. Basina

tale of a bachelor named Cheese Cave Dave who supposedly lived in the basement of the original Paoli Cooperative Dairy Co. during Prohibition and decided to experiment with whey in spirits. While the story is fictional, Mink says there are some elements of truth, especially considering the quantity of whey that was produced when the original factory was fully functional. In the cheesemaking process, 80–90% of milk becomes whey which leads to more than 130,000 gallons of waste each year. For Basina, using whey is a way Copper Crow can take what’s traditionally considered to be a waste product and turn it into a value-added product.

says whey-based spirits are popular in the United Kingdom, New

Basina spoke to other distillers about the positive effects of using

Zealand and Australia, but whey is an incredibly demanding base to

whey as a raw material when he was the keynote speaker at the

use in making spirits so it has not expanded to the same extent in

American Distilling Institute 2023 Sustainability Summit. Other

North America.

distilleries, including a well-known Wisconsin distillery, are now

• WINTER 2023

coming to Copper Crow to learn about the process of distilling with whey since it is the only company doing this in the Midwest. “Anytime that our community of local distillers can work together to develop new products and do other things, I think that’s fantastic,” Basina says. Mink says the sustainable benefits and drinkability of the whey was a big part of why they were interested in bringing this kind of spirit to southern Wisconsin. “[Whey is] incredibly abundant and [using whey] could add a lot of value to the dairy supply chain,” Mink says. Reception of the product at Seven Acre Dairy has been really great, Mink says—it’s selling as well as its Seven Acre Dairy farmhouse butter. He says many people are surprised at how delicious it is after initially seeing it as something unique and interesting. Basina says the spirit “finishes almost sweet, it has a creamy, dairy-like mouthfeel to it.” At Copper Crow, Basina crafts non-whey spirits as well and it’s truly up to a person’s palate whether or not they prefer the whey over the traditionally distilled alternative. At the distillery in Bayfield, he is working to produce amaretto and aquavit, while also experimenting with a coffee liquor and cocktail bitters—all using whey. For the time being, Cheese Cave Dave's Whey

Spirit is only available at Seven Acre Dairy.

hey is an incredibly

“This partnership is unique because we have

valuable product.

Linda who…have a tremendous amount of

It’s rich in nutrients and Photo courtesy of Seven Acre Dairy Co.

offers a lot of unique culinary and drink properties, but isn’t necessarily utilized in the way that it potentially could be." NIC MINK Chief Restoration Officer

this really incredible resource in Curt and time invested in trying to figure this out,” Mink says.

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F O O D W AY S MICHAEL SAMBAR

Someone Still Loves You, Labneh

My journey to understand our family’s most contentious condiment

e all have food aversions. It’s normal and sometimes even fun to dislike certain tastes and textures. I absolutely hated eggs—in any form—until a life-changing trip to Denny’s during the formative years of my early twenties. (A proportionate number of Spotted Cows enjoyed beforehand helped me work up the courage to ingest the scrambled, sulfurous blobs.) And while moderate levels of disinclination are understandable, when a food aversion reaches phobia-level extremes, one is compelled to look closer. Cue: labneh. Also known as strained yogurt, sack yogurt or

the labor-intensive delight of handmade baklava. But the one

yogurt cheese, labneh is a popular staple in the Middle East. It’s

item that was not allowed to enter our home was the infamous

essentially a thickened cultured milk, similar to Greek yogurt

and still-forbidden labneh. Our relatives would frequently

but with more of the whey removed so it develops a spreadable,

share childhood stories about my dad’s hatred for the stuff—

cream cheese-like consistency. It’s often eaten as a simple dip

explosive tantrums when it was anywhere near him. For reasons

with olive oil and pita bread, or incorporated into a sandwich

unbeknownst to us, he wouldn’t touch it with a ten-foot spoon.

with mint, thyme and olives—who wouldn’t love that? My dad,

His disdain for labneh carried over into other ingredients as

that’s who.

well: mayonnaise, whipped cream, Cool Whip—anything that

Soft Cheese, Hard No

was soft, white and had a vague semblance of a lactic jiggle

Growing up in the seaside town of Haifa, Israel, and eventually finding his way to Wisconsin, my dad brought with him many food traditions from the Levant, a region along the eastern Mediterranean, that have stuck with our family to this day. Dates and figs were a common healthy treat in our household. Falafel, kibbeh and manaeesh (Lebanese pizza) were always on the menu. On special occasions he would even treat us to

was a hard “no.” Because of this unwavering anti-labneh policy in our household, the condiment reached a mythological status in my mind as something I would simply never taste. It wasn’t until my mid-thirties that it dawned on me that I could give it a try on my own. So I decided to set out and try it, and explore what Madison’s Middle Eastern cuisine scene had to offer along the way. EDIBLEMADISON.COM 25

No batter, no matter! The higher-than-average melting point of haloumi (right) gives it a crispy, crackly exterior when fried.

O.G. Curd

Knafeh 'nother?

I started my hunt for labneh at Petra Bakery Restaurant on

The next stop on my journey was Taza Mediterranean

Madison’s near west side. As I scanned the menu for my fermented perpetrator, a different dairy product caught my attention that I couldn’t resist: deep-fried haloumi cubes. Haloumi, a popular cheese in the eastern Mediterranean, is traditionally made with a blend of goat’s and sheep’s milk. Because of its higher-than-average melting point, it’s perfect for grilling and frying. The dish was served hot and modest, with chopped parsley sprinkled over the top, and its exterior bubbling up crispy and golden brown, almost like a fried pork crackling. The first few bites were perfect: warm, salty and delightfully fatty. With a subtle squeak, they reminded me of the ever-popular Wisconsin speciality, cheese curds—without

restaurant in Middleton, where I discovered another cheesebased delight: knafeh. A delicious embodiment of contrasting textures and an iconic Palestinian dessert, knafeh is made using threads of spun pastry soaked in rose-infused syrup and layered over a soft sweet cheese such as nabulsi. Served warm, it’s the most unique, almost contradictory treat: saccharine and savory, crispy and melty, floral and buttery. I savored each stringy, syrupy bite. Still, no sign of labneh, but I knew I was getting closer, after ordering the hearty, cooling and wellspiced fattee—garbanzo beans topped with homemade yogurt and pita.

the breading. As I chowed down the crispy morsels, I couldn’t help but imagine how the ancient shepherds of the Levant were onto something great—long before deep fryers and food

Bottom: The Sambars enjoying lunch

out I made sure to grab several Turkish delights and baklava to

(No labneh in sight)

enjoy later.

Sweets from Petra Bakery 26

Right: Knafeh from Taza

trucks. I left Petra without having tasted labneh, but on my way

• WINTER 2023

You’re Getting Shawarma At this point I decided it would be worth doing a little research before venturing out for my next meal. Earlier that week, a friend had recommended a new-ish spot on Madison’s Willy Street, The Mediterranean Joint. A quick Google search ignited my hopes, listing two yogurt-based appetizers among many other heavyhitting classics. I popped in late on a Friday evening, optimistic that I would finally get a taste of the elusive labneh. I stepped up to the counter and ordered the haidari yogurt dip plate, only to find, devastatingly, that it was sold out. My dreams crumbled like an aged feta. The taste of labneh was so close, but seemingly more distant than the foothills of Lebanon. Despite my disappointment, I took comfort in knowing that an unknown group of Madison food-lovers must have savored the dish prior to my arrival. I consoled myself with the idea of these anonymous labneh-eaters (and with some of the best shawarma of my life). My hunt for the mysterious yogurt cheese slipped just out of my grasp that evening, but I was lucky to have experienced many other dishes that Madison’s small and vibrant Middle Eastern diaspora has to offer. The experience only strengthened my desire to taste labneh, as I pulled out my phone to figure out next week’s dinner plans. The search continues... Curious to taste it for yourself? See our recipe for Labneh with Roasted Beets and Feta on page 30.

Right: Shawarma and hummus from Taza Bottom: Author marvelling at a sack of grain, Haifa, 1994

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 27

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N O U R I S H LAURA POE MATHES

Gut Check MAKING THE CASE FOR A2 DAIRY

Depending on what internet rabbit holes you follow, you may or may not have heard of A2 milk. Even if you don’t know exactly what it is, you may have come across the term “A2” at some point; what was once a health food niche item is becoming more mainstream (at least foodie mainstream, I suppose) and that may be a very good thing. Let’s start with the basics: What is A2 milk? How is it different from “regular” milk? The label “A2” refers to a protein natu-

only produce milk with the A2 variant. Some

Other health outcomes are being studied

folks find these milks even easier to digest. Inter-

to make a case for A2 milk, including diabetes

estingly, human milk also contains only A2, so

and other inflammatory diseases that may be

rally found in milk. All mammal milk contains

A2/A2 dairy may more closely resemble moth-

associated with the A1 beta-casein variant. A1

whey and casein proteins. Casein is mostly

er’s milk, thus likely being better for humans to

produces beta-casomorplmvhin during diges-

found in two forms: either A1 beta-casein or A2

consume.

tion, which has been linked to health issues from

Why would someone want to find A2 milk? What makes it different? As with oth-

casomorphin is apparently not produced by A2

beta-casein. Which form occurs in various milks is based on genetics; when humans began to consume non-human milk tens of thousands of years ago, all milk only contained the A2 protein. Approximately 1,000 years ago, through genetic mutations and breeding, the A1 variant appeared.

er foods, such as wheat, that have been “overbred” for production volume at the expense of nutrition, flavor and digestibility, modern commercial milk often does not work well for all consum-

rashes and indigestion to behavior issues; this casein. Though more evidence is needed to make a strong case for consuming only A2 milk, the anecdotal reports of better digestion of A2 milk by those who typically do not tolerate cow’s milk are ubiquitous and warrant folks who usually

For a cow to produce A2 milk, the cow must

ers—think lactose intolerance, etc. A2 milk is

have only the genes for the A2 beta-casein pro-

closer to the ancestral type of milk that humans

tein, also known as A2/A2. Most commercial

have eaten for centuries while enjoying robust

milk (including organic) available today contains

health. Health claims for A2 milk typically cen-

So how can you get your hands on A2 milk? Now that A2 is becoming part of more

both A1 and A2 proteins, as most breeds of cow

ter around digestibility and symptoms after con-

food and health conversations, A2 products are

steer clear of dairy to try A2 milk.

have these genes, especially those bred for milk

sumption, including less gas and bloating, and

becoming easier to find; there is, in fact, a dedi-

production (such as Holsteins). There are some

other symptoms often associated with lactose in-

cated brand of A2 milk available at most grocery

breeds, however, that are by default A2/A2, in-

tolerance—which may actually just be inability

stores, as well as A2 yogurt found at health food

cluding Jersey, Guernsey, Normande and Brown

to adequately digest the A1 beta-casein protein.

stores and co-ops. It pains me to say that these

Swiss. These breeds have undergone fewer chang-

This may not mean those actually allergic to

brands are from California, so they are not made

es over time and have maintained their A2/A2

milk—especially cow dairy—can safely consume

with Wisconsin milk. This “trend” is not going

status for the most part. There are other species

it again, but there is a chance. Of course, talk

away anytime soon so I would wager that local

to consider, too, when discussing these genes, as

to a health care provider before trying A2 milk,

dairy producers will make more commercial A2

all mammal milk contains beta-casein proteins.

especially if a severe allergic reaction takes place

milk available in the near future. Opting for

Only cow's milk contains both A1 and A2 genes,

with dairy consumption.

sheep or goat milk (and cheese, yogurt, kefir and

due to selective breeding for higher yields; other

other products) is another simple way to stick to

mammals such as goat, sheep and water buffalo

A2 dairy and these are becoming easier to find

• WINTER 2023

as well.

If you are set on cow’s milk you can also look

Nutritionally, it is worth it to seek this out,

for products other than fluid milk, including a

as real, fresh milk is a superior beverage in ev-

delicious A2 Cheddar from Nordic Creamery in

ery way (sorry, beer!): it has a perfect blend of

Westby, Wisconsin. The best way to try local A2

carbohydrates, fat and protein; it contains highly

milk at this time is by purchasing directly from

bioavailable forms of fat-soluble vitamins like vi-

farmers. As mentioned, lesser-known breeds

tamins K2 and D and minerals like calcium and

that small farms may raise can be A2/A2 “by

phosphorus. Milk is the best beverage for hydra-

breed,” but farmers can also test the genetics of

tion due to its electrolyte content (sorry, water!).

their herd to ensure that they have stayed truly

Of course, it tastes amazing! And, unlike dairy

A2, as more consumers are seeking this out now.

alternatives, it can easily be produced locally and

Though this takes more legwork, a bit of sleuth-

supports small, family farms. You can’t say that

ing and, hopefully, some farm visits, it may be

about oat “milk”! So if you are not sure if you

worth all that to be able to find high-quality milk

need to break up with dairy or not, maybe you

so you can enjoy consuming dairy again—as a

could seek out some A2 milk and see if you are

bonus, if you are a raw milk enthusiast (hand

able to keep milk in your life…fingers crossed.

raised over here!), this is the only way to get fresh, unpasteurized milk in Wisconsin. While consuming raw milk is legal, it is not yet legal to sell raw milk at retail stores in our state, though incidental on-farm sales are allowed. Hopefully this will change in the future. You may have to do some digging to locate this in your area, but it may be a worthwhile venture—you can check out realmilk.org or the Weston A. Price Foundation for help locating fresh milk near you. If you are uncomfortable with raw milk consumption, you could always heat and cool your fresh A2 milk when you get it home.

Why go through the trouble of seeking out A2 milk and not just ditch dairy altogether? I will stay on my little soapbox (milk crate?) for a moment to mention that only in the last few decades of industrial food intake and subsequently impacted gut health did dairy start to become a food that caused issues for folks. It was not always this way; humans have consumed mammal milk for at least ten thousand years in Europe, parts of Africa, Asia, Central and South America and the Middle East. One would assume this did not cause ill health as that is a long history with having milk in the Photo by Sunny Frantz

diet, and it occurred all over the world. If we can look to include milk closer to what our ancestors consumed (for those whose ancestors consumed mammal milk), perhaps we can enjoy it as they might have–this means looking for fresh, unprocessed, A2 milk. EDIBLEMADISON.COM 31

Labneh with Roasted Beets and Feta

Labneh is a Middle Eastern yogurt cheese which can be purchased premade or you can DIY it and make your own very easily. If you are looking for strictly A2 dairy, you can use A2 milk to make your own yogurt or purchase A2 yogurt made from cow’s milk (Bellwether Farms from California makes a delicious one!) or naturally A2/A2 goat’s or sheep’s milk yogurt. This gorgeous dish, where beets act as an island of red jewels on a cloud of creamy white labneh, can be served as part of a mezze platter at your next potluck or dinner party (even a party for one). This

Photo by Sunny Frantz

is perfect for dipping with a piece of warm pita or crusty sourdough.

Serves: 4-6 Prep time: 20 minutes, plus 24 hours for straining yogurt Cook time: 40 minutes

INGREDIENTS 1 quart plain, whole milk yogurt (cow's, goat's or sheep's milk) 2 large or 3 medium beets 3 tablespoon olive oil ½ teaspoon sea salt 1 tablespoon fresh thyme 1 sprig fresh rosemary, finely chopped Pinch black pepper 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar 2 tablespoon fresh orange juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoon honey 4 ounces sheep's milk feta

• WINTER 2023

DIRECTIONS 1. To make the labneh, line a fine mesh strainer with a tea towel, fine-weave cheesecloth or a paper towel, and set the strainer over a bowl. (If you are not making your own labneh and using store-bought, skip ahead to step 4.) 2. Pour the yogurt into the lined strainer and let it drain into the bowl for 12-24 hours in the refrigerator, until it is thickened, straining out the majority of the liquid whey. If you prefer a thicker labneh, let it strain on the longer side. (Straining for just 6–8 hours gives you Greek yogurt!) 3. Remove the yogurt cheese, labneh, from the strainer and store it in a glass container until ready to use. 4. To make the beets, preheat the oven to 375 degrees F and line a sheet pan with parchment paper. 5. Trim the ends off the beets and cut the beets into small dice, about ½-inch cubes. Toss the beets with the olive oil, salt, thyme, rosemary and pepper, stirring to coat. Spread them on the prepared sheet and bake for 30–40 minutes, until the beets are tender. 6. Remove the beets from the pan and place them in a bowl. Add the vinegar, orange and lemon juices and honey, stirring to coat. Let cool slightly before serving to prevent melting the labneh. 7. To serve, spread the labneh on a serving dish or plate, creating an even layer and a base for the beets. Place the prepared beets in a neat mound in the middle of the labneh. Crumble the sheep's milk feta over the dish and serve.

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Photos by Sunny Frantz

A Very Dairy Holiday Season Winter is a very dairy-heavy time in my home, and this season, I’m feeling inspired to add a little extra celebration to my tables with decadent desserts featuring local dairy products. Four local chefs have contributed recipes that encourage us to get creative with cream, yogurt, chèvre and sour cream– most of which are perfect for holiday gatherings since they can be made well ahead of time. For our vegan (and vegan-curious) readers, Mickey Walker of Heirloom Bakery shares her recipe for a vegan scone made with a faux eggnog glaze that will have you feeling festive.

Chocolate Yogurt “Mousse” This dairy-heavy recipe takes a tricky, technical dessert and simplifies it into something that you can easily whip up in 15 minutes. If you’re feeling festive, it would be delicious with a sprinkle of crushed peppermints or toffee.

Serves 4 Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 5 minutes INGREDIENTS 4 ounces (70% cacao) baking chocolate, cut into pieces ¼ cup maple syrup 1 cup heavy cream, divided 1 teaspoon sugar 1 cup whole Greek yogurt Flaky sea salt

DIRECTIONS 1.

Fill a medium saucepan a quarter full with water and bring to a boil. Place the chocolate in a glass bowl and set above the boiling water, making sure the water does not touch the bowl directly. Stir the chocolate with a spatula until it’s fully melted. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the maple syrup and ½ cup of heavy cream until smooth.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk the remaining ½ cup heavy cream on high until stiff. Add the sugar and combine with a spatula. Transfer to a small bowl.

In the same large bowl, add the chocolate mixture without wiping out the bowl and whisk on high for a minute or two. Add the yogurt and continue whisking until combined.

Serve right away (or chilled if you prefer) with a sprinkle of salt and a dollop of whipped cream.

Recipe by Lauren Rudersdorf

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 35

Lemon Posset Debbie doesn’t think there’s any better way to brighten up a dark winter day than with a light yet luxurious citrus dessert, and one of her favorite treats is a posset. A posset is basically a citrus pudding, but rather than being thickened with gelatin, eggs or starch, the cream is set by a reaction between the acid in the citrus and the fat in the cream. Here, she shares the classic way to make posset (with lemon), but feel free to experiment using other citrus or by steeping tea or herbs into the cream for delicious variations such as grapefruit vanilla or chamomile lemon. Possets are great on their own or can be dressed up with fresh berries, candied citrus peel or a shortbread cookie on the side.

Serves 4 Prep time: 20 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes Chill time: 4 hours INGREDIENTS 2 cups heavy cream ⅔ cup sugar Zest of one lemon 6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

DIRECTIONS 1.

In a medium saucepan, bring the cream, sugar and zest just to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer on low for 4–5 minutes, stirring frequently so that the mixture doesn’t burn or boil over.

Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and let cool for 15 minutes.

Strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into individual dessert dishes, and chill for at least 4 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

Serve as is or garnish with fruit or cookies.

Recipe by Debbie Buchanan of Reverie Baking Co.

• WINTER 2023

Brandied Currant Vegan Scones with “Eggnog” Glaze In some cultures, currants are viewed as a symbol of healing, hope, forgiveness and renewal which leads Mickey to believe that these are the perfect scones for the holiday season and new year. Plus, the warming spices and flavorful bursts of brandied currants taste extra good on a cozy winter morning. Be sure to save the flavorful brandy mixture that remains after making your brandied currants to use for other baking projects or festive cocktails.

INGREDIENTS For the Brandied Currants: 1 cup brandy ¼ cup brown sugar 1 cup dried currants For the Scones: 4½ cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons baking powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon ¾ cup sugar 1 teaspoon sea salt ½ cup vegan margarine, cold and cut into small chunks ¾ cup nondairy milk, chilled 1 tablespoon lemon juice, chilled 2 teaspoons vanilla extract ½ teaspoon orange zest For the“Eggnog” Glaze: 2 cups powdered sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon fresh grated nutmeg, plus more to garnish 3–4 tablespoons nondairy milk

DIRECTIONS 1.

In a small saucepan, combine the brandy and brown sugar. Bring to a slight simmer over medium heat. Stir regularly until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, stir in the currants, cover and chill until ready to use.

Preheat the oven to 425° F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and divide it into two equal parts. Shape them into rounds and pat the dough flat so it measures roughly 1 ½-inches high. Cut the rounds into 6 wedges and place on a baking sheet.

Bake for 20-22 minutes, rotating the tray at 10 minutes. Finished scones should have a lovely golden color kissing the tops and corners.

8. To make the “eggnog” glaze, combine the 3. To make the scones, sift together the flour, powdered sugar, vanilla extract and grated baking powder and cinnamon into a large bowl. nutmeg in a medium bowl. Add two tableStir in the sugar and sea salt. Add the vegan spoons of the milk and stir to combine. If the margarine and use a pastry blender or the back mixture is still very dry, add another tableof a fork to mash the margarine into the flour spoon of milk. Continue adding milk until a mixture until there are no large clumps left. thick (not runny) glaze consistency is achieved. 4. In a liquid measuring cup, combine the 9. Drizzle the glaze onto the cooled scones and nondairy milk, lemon juice, orange zest and finish with an additional grating of fresh nutmeg. vanilla extract. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and use a spatula to lightly fold them into the flour. It is very important to not overmix the dough or stir too aggressively. 5. After the mixtures are slightly combined, strain the brandied currants and sprinkle them into the dough. Use your hands to gather the dough together. Do not knead the dough, just lightly squeeze and press the dough until it forms a cohesive ball.

Recipe by Mickey Walker of Heirloom Bakery and Kitchen

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 37

Sour Cream Panna Cotta with Burnt Honey and Juniper Panna cotta, which means “cooked cream” in Italian, is one of Alyssa’s favorite ways to showcase the delicate nature of cream, as there are no eggs or starches to compete for flavor. Here she enriches her panna cotta with tangy sour cream, balancing the sweetness and touch of bitterness in the burnt honey. She finishes the dish with juniper, something we don’t see enough in winter cooking. If you’re not a fan, try garnishing with the zest of an orange or lemon instead.

Serves: 8 Prep time: 10 minutes Cook time: 15 minutes Chill time: 4 hours

DIRECTIONS

Recipe by Alyssa Janco of Nectar Bakery

• WINTER 2023

For the burnt honey syrup, heat the honey over medium heat in a saucepan with high sides. The honey will bubble up and begin to change color—it is done when it begins to smoke and turns a deep red-brown color (340°F on a candy thermometer). Remove the saucepan from the heat and carefully add the remaining cup of water. Be very careful with this step! The water will sputter and spray steam into the air. Stir until incorporated and add the last pinch of salt. Transfer the syrup to a heat-safe container and allow to cool completely.

In a small bowl, combine the powdered gelatin with ¼ cup of the water. Let the mixture rest for 10 minutes to bloom.

In a saucepan, combine the heavy cream, sugar and a pinch of salt. Heat gently until the mixture is just barely simmering, stirring frequently with a heat-safe rubber spatula to avoid scorching on the bottom. When the mixture begins to simmer, remove it from the heat and stir in the bloomed gelatin until it’s completely dissolved. Add the sour cream and whisk the mixture for a few seconds until 5. When the panna cotta is ready to serve, pour thoroughly combined. some burnt honey syrup into the ramekins, Divide the cream mixture between 8 rameand garnish with the crushed juniper. kins or other serving dishes, leaving a bit of space between the panna cotta and the lip of the dish. Cover and refrigerate the panna cotta until firm, about 4 hours or overnight.

INGREDIENTS 2½ teaspoons powdered gelatin ½ cup water, divided 3 cups heavy whipping cream ½ cup sugar 2 pinches salt, divided 1½ cups sour cream ½ cup local honey 1 tablespoon juniper berries, crushed

Recipe by Kristine Miller of L’Etoile

Chèvre Cheesecake with Cardamom Shortbread and Butterscotch Sauce One of the most beloved ingredients in the L’Etoile kitchen is goat cheese from Dreamfarm in Cross Plains. The restaurant purchases large quantities in the spring when it is first made and freezes it to incorporate it into many different dishes all year long. When pastry chef Kristine first put a version of this cheesecake on the dessert menu, she loved how it highlighted the beautiful chèvre and how the slightly savory nature of it is complimented by the sweetness of the butterscotch.

Serves 12 Prep time: 40 minutes Cook time: 1 hour 45 minutes Chill time: 8 hours INGREDIENTS *For the Cardamom Shortbread Crust: 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground cardamom 1 cup cold, cubed butter, plus more for the pan 2 to 4 tablespoons milk *If you prefer thicker crust, double this recipe For the Chèvre Cheesecake Filling: 1 pound cream cheese, room temperature 12 ounces fresh goat cheese (chèvre), room temperature ¾ cup + 1 tablespoon sugar 3 whole large eggs 1 egg yolk ½ teaspoon salt ⅓ cup heavy cream For the Butterscotch Sauce: ½ cup butter 1 cup brown sugar ½ cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS 1.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

2. To make the crust, place the flour, sugar, salt and cardamom in the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the cold, cubed butter and mix with a paddle attachment on low until it has a sandy texture. Add the milk one tablespoon at a time and mix on medium speed until the dough starts sticking to itself when you squeeze a handful together. 3.

Lightly grease a 9-inch cake pan or springform pan with butter, press in a circle of parchment paper, and grease the parchment. Press the 7. dough evenly into the bottom of the pan, keeping it flat along the edge. Use the bottom of a juice glass to help keep the edge sharp. Bake the crust until golden brown, about 30 minutes. When the crust is done baking, remove it from the oven and lower the oven temperature to 325 degrees F.

5. While the crust is baking, make the chèvre cheesecake filling. Using the paddle attachment on the stand mixer, combine the cream cheese, chèvre and sugar. Mix on medium-high to fully combine, scraping down the sides a few times, until the mixture is smooth. Add the eggs, yolk and salt and mix again on medium until fully combined. Finally, add the cream and mix again until smooth.

Pour the cheesecake filling on top of the crust and smooth it with a spatula. If using a springform pan, wrap some aluminum foil around the bottom so water doesn’t leak in. Place the cheesecake onto a half sheet pan, and put it on the middle rack in the oven. Before closing the oven door, pour hot water into the sheet pan to fill it about halfway, surrounding the cheesecake pan. Bake the cheesecake until moving it slightly produces a cohesive jiggle, but before it turns golden (internal temperature 150°F), about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Chill 8 hours or overnight. To make the butterscotch sauce, place the butter, brown sugar, heavy cream, vanilla and salt in a small saucepan. Stir until the butter is melted, then let the mixture come to a boil for a minute or two. The mixture will bubble and rise up the sides of the pan when it is ready. Cool at room temperature.

8. To serve, slide a paring knife or offset spatula around the cheesecake and invert the cheesecake out of the pan onto a cutting board (it will now be upside down). Flip the cheesecake again onto a plate or other serving dish by holding the plate against the crust with one hand, the cutting board with the other and turning upside down. If you used a springform pan, you can just release the pan to remove the cheesecake. Cut the cheesecake into slices and serve with a drizzle of butterscotch sauce.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 39

By Jesse Raub

Links to the Past & Present I’m sitting on the patio of a brewery as the sun is setting just over my shoulder, and to prepare for my interview I arrange a variety of meat sticks on a cutting board that I brought from home. As I take a sip from my thematically appropriate German lager, my subject pulls up a chair and jumps right in. “That’s the thing,” he says to me, pointing at the sausages I have laid out on the table. “They all use hickory, but it comes out in so many different ways with landjäger.” The “he” in this situation is Jesse Brookstein—a local landjäger enthusiast (and parttime distributor) who literally wrote the book on landjäger—and we’ve got five different varieties in front of us at Working Draft Brewery. We’ve been snipping off small bits with a pair of kitchen shears, and I sample the pfefferjäger from Bavaria Sausage—it’s spicy, tangy, salty and has a mild heat that sneaks up on you (“They use a blend of Brazilian peppers,” Brookstein says). I’m entranced by the complexity of its flavors, but before we can even talk about the other types on display, a woman at the next table pipes up. “Is that sausage?” she calls out. When I tell her we are sampling landjäger, she gasps. “I love landjäger!” As her group gets up for another beer, Brookstein strikes up a conversation with a guy from her table who, as it turns out, also knows the Ruefs—one of the families that used to run a meat shop that made landjäger.

“That’s why I love this stuff,” Brookstein says to me. “It brings people together.” Landjäger is a type of sausage that’s been cured, fermented, smoked and dried. It’s typically made with a blend of beef and pork along with a mix of spices that could include caraway, coriander, black pepper, allspice, celery seed, garlic, cumin and nutmeg that all gets stuffed into a casing and molded into a rectangular shape. Most landjäger comes in a pair strung together by a bit of casing that’s been twisted, which is then usually hung over a wooden dowel in decorative displays that look like Alpine chalets. And here’s the kicker—landjäger is shelf-stable, which means it can be left out for up to two weeks without spoiling (or if refrigerated in a sealed package, up to a year). The curing process helps stabilize the water activity in the sausage while the fermentation (usually from a lactic acid starter culture) lowers the pH until it’s slightly acidic. Finally, the smoking process kills off any remaining harmful bacteria. In pre-refrigeration times, these steps were important for preserving meat: Landjäger would typically be taken

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on trips to the forest by hunters or game wardens

who makes their own version of landjäger along with

(landjäger literally translates to “land hunter” in

a variety of other traditional salami styles. Building

English). These days, however, its complicated

on Brookstein’s local meat market theory, co-founder

production is more about developing unique and

Ryan Wagner says, “I believe Wisconsin's history of sausage-making had a tremendous impact on me and

complex flavors. While charcuterie has had a very chef-focused revival in the last decade, Brookstein thinks Wisconsin’s history of local meat shops and love of grilling

my vision for Driftless Provisions. I grew up across the street from Newton Meats, just south of Manitowoc, and was good friends with the owner's children.” Driftless Provisions makes all their

sausages has kept traditional styles like landjäger and summer sausage popular and approachable. “When I was living in Denver, a charcuterie board was this expensive menu item you’d get at a fancy restaurant. Here in Wisconsin, if we have people over to our house I always have a board of summer sausage and cheese laid out with a few

“It’s like tasting a time capsule of the last 50 years.”

landjäger pairs hanging nearby.” To get more perspective on the role of a local meat shop in Wisconsin, I reached out to Meat People, a butchery owned by Pip Freeman and Jenny Griep on Madison’s east side. “I would say our regular customers are a mix of folks who like that we are an old-fashioned meat market that does custom cuts, like to only eat pastured meats and know we do that very thing exclusively, and lastly, gourmet eater types who like how good our food is,” says Freeman. While they would love to produce their own landjäger, they’re currently unable to use a smoker in their space. Instead, they make a variety of other cured meats, like pepperoni, salami and summer sausage. “We choose what cuts are going to be best used for

salami in a traditional way: first the meat is mixed with spices and a starter culture, then it’s added to a casing and allowed to ferment. Finally, it’s dried between four to eight weeks depending on the thickness of the sausage. “We never cook the product,” says Wagner. “That is certainly unique.” For their version of landjäger,

there’s a fifth step: cold smoking. Wagner was inspired by his childhood visits to the local deer camp with his father, where the ringleader was a former butcher and would bring along summer sausage that he made with venison. Driftless Provisions’ landjäger is made with a blend of bison and pork, and while it might not be the most traditional version, Wagner says it’s the closest thing to the sausages he used to eat at the hunting camp: “The earthy notes and smokiness harken back to my memories as a child eating the classic German-style sausages but done in an Italian way (fermentation and drying).” And while Driftless Provisions was inspired by classic Wisconsin hunting traditions and the state’s old school meat markets, you can find all different types of their salami (including

curing, which for us is the things that don’t really sell

spicy finnochiona, soppressata, and saucisson sec) in

as whole muscle cuts in case. Pork jowls and bellies,

grocery stores and cheese shops as well.

for example," shares Freeman. "We then weigh them carefully and use salt and some version of curing salt along with any flavoring spices and herbs depending on the item. If we’re making summer sausage or pepperoni there is another step, which is fermentation for a couple of days before cooking.” Meat People currently curates a wide selection of cured meats from quality producers to allow our customers to make a full charcuterie board while they get health and safety plans approved for more recipes. “We always try to find producers that have similar ethics to us with regard to animal welfare and land stewardship," says Freeman.

For Brookstein, however, landjäger is king. “It’s like tasting a time capsule of the last 50 years. Every recipe has history to it, and no two are the same.” We both order a second beer, and I taste through the remaining landjäger from Zuber’s, Bavaria Sausages and Bucky’s Varsity Meats, and he’s right. Each one has its own unique tang, smoke and spice blend. And then there’s aging. “Don’t be afraid to let it breathe,” Brookstein says about letting your landjäger hang out before indulging. Most landjäger hanging in a display has already had time to age, but if it’s from a vacuumsealed pack, Brookstein suggests letting it sit for three

One of the producers they carry is Driftless

days to allow it to dry out more: “That’s where you get

Provisions, a sausage maker in the Driftless region

that nice snap.”

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 41

Lately

he’s

started

small-scale

distribution

business, delivering landjäger from a local meat shop to bars, breweries and restaurants around the area. What blew him away, however, is that the high-end cocktail bar Robin Room sold as much landjäger as the Wisconsin rec-room themed Muskellounge. “Do you think it’s being reclaimed by people with fancy tastes?” I ask. “I think it’s just tradition,” Brookstein answers. “I have 90-year-olds come up to me and say ‘I used to eat this up at the cabin with my family in the summer,’ and I have teens tell me that their grandparents used to buy it for them. Like I said before, it just has a way of bringing people together.”

Landjäger

Selection of Producers in the Area Bucky's Varsity Meats in Madison Bavaria Sausage in Fitchburg “Recipes and stories that invite us to fall in love with the market and the food of the Upper Midwest all over again.” ~Luke Zahm, host of PBS’s “Wisconsin Foodie”

Available at the Markets, local book & gift shops and online at www.littlecreekpress.com

All proceeds from the cookbook benefit the Dane County Farmers’ Market. 42

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Driftless Provisions in Viroqua Hoesly's in New Glarus Gempeler's in Monticello Buol's Bristled Pig & Zuber's in Monroe Rackow's in Juda

The Perfect Pairing We reached out to local cheese shop Fromagination for the best cheese pairings to go with landjäger and other regional charcuterie. Cheesemonger and Front of House Manager Ian Kozaczek was happy to pick out four of his favorites for an accompanying cheeseboard.

Hook's 5 Year Cheddar

Canela

Illustrations by Cricket Redman

Hook's 5 Year Cheddar

Lake Effect

Anabasque

Canela by roth

Lake Effect by Blakesville

Anabasque from Landmark Creamery

“A manchego style cow’s milk “A soft-ripened goat's milk “A classic Wisconsin sharp cheese made in Monroe. It has cheese made in a brie style. It’s Cheddar made by Tony and “A Basque-style sheep's milk more fatty and earthy flavors very rich for a goat's milk cheese cheese with a more bouncy July Hook. Its flavor notes are and has only a slight tang from slightly savory, salty, sharp with with a little bit of cinnamon texture. Nutty with a unique bite from the cinnamon and the acidity. The creaminess a little sweetness on the end. honey-like finish to it. Sheep's paprika they use to color the of the cheese along with the The cheese itself is firm and milk is very high in fat so there unique goat flavor makes for a slightly crumbly, perfect for any rind. It pairs perfectly with a is a velvety texture to the slice of landjäger placed on more adventurous bite when cheese board. It pairs well with mouthfeel. The sweetness top due to its firm mouthfeel. paired with meats. The flavors meats due to its sharpness and richness make it a perfect cutting through the fattiness. It Manchego is traditionally made will be a little more "farmy" and dessert cheese to pair with with sheep's milk but this one when paired with a nice bubbly also amplifies the savory notes, spicier meats for a crowduses cow’s milk which gives wine it is perfect for a picnic or and is the youngest of pleasing flavor combination." it a little less nutty and more any outdoor gathering.” their cheddars.” savory quality.” EDIBLEMADISON.COM 43

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S P O N SO R ED CO N TEN T

More than just food from a farmer you know: Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) BY TESS ROMANSKI, FAIRSHARE CSA COALITION

Although winter feels like it just arrived, farmers are already getting ready for another busy growing season! Colder weather is often when farmers take a break from the physically demanding peak-season harvest grind, but now is the time when farmers are purchasing seeds, organizing crop plans and getting ready for the year ahead. One of the simplest (and most delicious) ways to support your local farmers is through Community Supported Agriculture, or CSA. By purchasing a “share” at the beginning of the growing season and becoming a “member” of that farm for the entire season, CSA lets you buy food directly from a grower in your area. In return, members receive a weekly or biweekly box of farm-fresh foods—carefully grown, harvested, and packed by the farmer— all season long. CSA members sign up in advance of the growing season, which helps farmers plan for and invest in the season ahead and cover the initial annual costs of farm operation. And these colder winter months are when shares start filling up! “We love to eat in season, and having a CSA allows me to eat the freshest, local, in-season produce,” notes Jennie M., a CSA member of Red Door Family Farm. Top: Elisabeth Minich and Steven Shoemaker of Steadfast Acres harvesting kale. Bottom: Kat Becker of Cattail Organics sharing zucchini and summer squash. Photos courtesy of FairShare CSA Coalition

Not just for veggies! While the CSA model started with members signing up to receive shares of vegetables, many farms now offer add-on shares of other farm products, in addition to produce. By adding on farm products like apples, bread, coffee, eggs, meat, flowers and more, farm members are able to check off items from their grocery list all in one stop, from a farmer they know!

Along with farm-fresh food, other benefits of CSA typically include: · Farm newsletters with each delivery, including notes about what’s happening on the farm, what produce you’re receiving that week, cooking tips, recipes and more. · Opportunities to visit the farm and attend farm events. · A personal connection to the hands that grow your food. With CSA, you know exactly where your food is coming from, who grew it and can be rest assured that it was picked within days of getting to your table. · A variety of share options, including: extended season shares (spring, fall, winter), customizable shares (pick what goes in your box each week), market shares (pick what you want directly at the farmers’ market), and various share sizes to fit your household’s needs. · Payment plans to spread the share cost across the season. · Financial support for eligible households through the Partner Shares Program. · Knowing your farmer uses sustainable and organic farming practices. Learn more about CSA and start planning your 2024 produce season at csacoalition.org/about-csa. EDIBLEMADISON.COM 45

Artisanal Butter Adventures

Photos by Sharon Vanorny

by Qwantese Dourese Winters

estled in the charming town of Paoli,

up. Their paths converged at a Soil Sisters

just a short 20-minute drive from

potluck, a gathering of women farmers,

Landmark Creamery micro dairy for butter

producers and food enthusiasts, where

production. Guests of Seven Acre can get

small but mighty business with a passion for

their friendship blossomed, and the seed for

an up-close look at production through a

crafting exceptional small-batch cheeses

Landmark Creamery was sown.

Madison, you'll find Landmark Creamery, a

and now, an exciting new venture into butter production. Founded by Anna Landmark and Anna Thomas Bates, Landmark Creamery brings together the legacy of dairy farming and a love for artisanal food in a partnership that began back in 2014.

But what's the connection to Seven Acre Dairy Co.? It turns out that Nic Mink, the founder of Seven Acre Dairy, used to frequent Landmark Creamery's shop before acquiring Seven Acre. Recognizing an opportunity, Mink proposed the idea of

Anna Landmark, with her cheesemaker

producing butter in the historic Seven Acre

license, takes the lead in production, while

Dairy plant, which provided a perfect match.

Anna Thomas Bates, a local food writer and renowned grilled cheese champion, handles marketing and administration. Anna Thomas Bates was the one who approached Anna Landmark with the idea of partnering

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"It just kinda made sense," says Thomas Bates. "It gave him production and gave us a small space to make butter. So it was a good partnership."

Inside Seven Acre Dairy Co., you'll find the

window that’s labeled with the Landmark name in bold white letters. The room exudes a sterile yet homey ambiance, equipped with essential tools for crafting their delectable butter, including a churn, pasteurizer and a table for the meticulous hand-pounding of butter by Landmark Creamery’s dedicated staff. Landmark Creamery's new butter venture introduces three distinct varieties: sweet cream butter (sourced from whole milk separation), whey cream butter (a byproduct of their cheese-making process) and cultured butter (a slightly tangy and more complex butter). Thomas Bates describes whey cream butter as having "a

"We want to support people in our local foodshed, so none of our farms or plants are more than 30 miles away."

Top: Windows in the Landmark Creamery micro dairy allow visitors to Seven Acre Diary Co. to view butter production. Bottom: Staff member Leann Powers inside the micro dairy getting ready to start shaping the small-batch butter. Left: Three varieties of Landmark Creamery's small-batch butter are available at Seven Acre Dairy Co. and Landmark Creamery Provisions.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 47

Top: Landmark Creamery staff member Leann Powers removes butter from the churn. Left: Powers weighs out 8 ounces of butter before beginning to shape with butter paddles, also known as butter hands or Scotch hands. The freshly-churned butter is hand-paddled which helps remove any remaining buttermilk. Co-owner of Landmark Creamery, Anna Thomas Bates, wraps butter in foil packaging.

Photos by Sharon Vanorny

Right: Leann transfer butter from the churn, preparing it to be hand-paddled. The small space at Seven Acre Dairy Co. lends itself perfectly for butter production in the historic Paoli building.

• WINTER 2023

different flavor, more flavor. It has an almost cheesy flavor." Among their butter offerings, you'll find sweet cream salted butter, whey cream salted butter, and innovative compound butters such as black garlic, herb butter featuring spice blends from The Deliciouser and a cacio e pepe butter featuring their award-winning pecorino cheese. They are exploring unsalted butter options for the future. A special aspect of Landmark Creamery’s production is their commitment to a more hands-on approach to butter-making. Unlike larger plants that rely on machinery for every step, Landmark incorporates an old-school method in their process, aligning perfectly with the historical restoration that is Seven Acre Dairy. They pasteurize their cream, churn it, salt it and then comes the unique touch. "We do all the shaping by hand," explains Thomas Bates. This is done using special paddles, reminiscent of small artisanal operations. Each package of butter is carefully wrapped by hand in foil, adding a personal touch to their creations. When considering why butter instead of cheese, Thomas Bates shares that the decision was a sensible one. While they considered moving their cheese production to their new space, the spacious requirements for cheese-making made it impractical to convert the historical Seven Acre room into a cheese-making facility. Butter, with its smaller production footprint for small-scale operations, became the natural choice. What truly sets Landmark Creamery apart is their commitment to sourcing ingredients locally. Paoli's proximity to numerous small farms and local plants makes it an ideal location to acquire cream and other ingredients for their cheeses and butter. Thomas Bates says, "We want to support people in our local foodshed, so none of our farms or plants are more than 30 miles away." Their mission has always been to create a small business that not only thrives but also supports small family farms, allowing them to make a living and support their families without them needing to own an overwhelming number of cows. Landmark Creamery's expansion into butter production within the Seven Acre Dairy Co. building represents a harmonious blend of tradition, innovation and a deep-rooted commitment to local agriculture. As they continue to churn out their delectable butter varieties, Landmark Creamery is poised to make a lasting mark in the world of artisanal dairy products, leaving a flavorful legacy for generations to come.

Landmark Creamery's cultured butter variety has a more complex flavor and is slightly tangy due to the live cultures it is exposed to, much like yogurt and cheese.

EDIBLEMADISON.COM 49

Eat & Drink Guide

When you're thinking of going out to explore a new place to eat or meet friends for drinks please consider these generous sponsors.

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An award-winning, destination cafe serving from-scratch bakery items, stellar espresso from two small batch local roasters, and breakfast and lunch in downtown Oregon.

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A fourth-generation, grain-to-glass, family-run bourbon farm offering tours and a tasting room. Enjoy internationally acclaimed, heirloom four-grain bourbons (and soon ryes!) just north of Madison.

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A beautiful shop offering delicious gluten-free baked goods, excellent coffee, and decadent chocolates, caramels, truffles and more.

Bringing the flavors of the Southwest to the Midwest with time-honored recipes. Madison’s favorite margarita! Gathering with friends for over thirty-five years.

A restaurant, market, meal kit service, and event space serving a locally-sourced daily menu to folks who are hungry for high-quality, healthy meals, but starved for time.

729 Glenway St, Madison MADISONCHOCOLATECOMPANY.COM

6712 Frank Lloyd Wright Ave #102, Middleton 100 Cross Country Rd, Verona PASQUALSCANTINA.COM

2433 University Ave, Madison PASTUREANDPLENTY.COM

The downtown destination for great corner tavern food featuring an ever-changing selection of craft beers and a wonderful outdoor patio.

A community-owned grocery and deli featuring local and organic food. Hot bar, salad bar and grab-and-go options available daily. Indoor and outdoor seating.

A charming cafe located in beautiful Stoughton serving espresso, housemade bakery items, breakfast, lunch, and specialty goods.

102 King St, Madison TIPSYCOWMADISON.COM

609 N Main St, Viroqua VIROQUAFOOD.COOP

218 S Forrest St, Stoughton WILDWOOD-CAFE.COM

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• WINTER 2023