edible explorer
WILD IRELAND An unforgettable road trip weaving through Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, where opulent luxury and rugged culinary adventure abound. BY SHAUNA BURKE
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he thought of traveling internationally during Covid times—even for a seasoned adventurer— seemed daunting or, at best, unnecessarily complicated but my journey to Ireland actually proved to be wildly rewarding, mellow, and had me feeling like the world was my literal oyster. Our road trip up the west of Ireland included exploring castles, foraging, hiking, and eating extraordinary food with three iconic hotels as a base for exploration, all with the freedom to make our own schedule. Hayfield Manor, County Cork It all started in Cork, with an airport car rental (pro tip: get a small car for the narrow roads—we didn’t and have regrets) and a short drive to Hayfield Manor—located right in the center of the city beside University College Cork. It’s a humble old estate with beautifully appointed rooms, lovely gardens and food, and is a great base to explore. Enjoy tea in the garden and don’t miss the seasonally-driven menu at Perrotts Garden Bistro where we sampled Irish beef, Skeaghanore Farm’s duck, Kenmare scallops,
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Castletownbere crab, and lots of local produce. A short walk into the city center led us to the centuriesold and not-to-be-missed English Market—a sprawling site where we found local eggs, preserves, cheeses, pantry goods, and readymade snacks and meals to take with us on the road to Kinsale, a colorful and historic fishing town founded in the 12th century. Take the Lighthouse Loop Walk on Sheep’s Head Peninsula to the sea cliffs where a 17th-century lighthouse awaits and work up an appetite to enjoy some seafood at the Michelin-starred Bastion back in town. Finns’ Farmcut and Max’s are two other more casual spots not to be missed. Explore west to Kenmare in County Kerry, a lively small town worth a stop and a meal at the picturesque, chic Sheen Falls Lodge—not far from Killarney National Park which provided some of the most beautiful walks on the trip. Dromoland Castle, County Clare We continued north to stay at Dromoland Castle, located near Newmarket-on-Fergus, which has been welcoming guests since
