From the Good Earth
It Doesn’t Get More ‘Local’ Than THE Foraging It Yourself BOUNTY OF THE A HUNT BY HEATHER TALLMAN
PHOTOGRAPHY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN
s more and more people take control of where their food comes from, how it is raised and what they feed themselves and their families, a dialog has opened up amongst consumers about going back to the root of the culinary evolution. Indiana’s forests and waterways are an abundant source of food for many who choose to gather their own. From fish to waterfowl to game, the bounty of the hunt is shared in both the home and restaurant settings. Former sous-chef, forager and Indiana native Matt DuCharme shared with me a bit of insight as to why he seeks out locally sourced game and even hunts for his own. “A big reason is simply proving to myself that I can provide. Sometimes it simply comes down to being thankful for a good hunt and harvest. The same reasons apply as to why I may choose to garden or fish. There are a multitude of reasons why someone may hunt or fish and that is a personal choice.“ “I do not know of specific health benefits,” he continued, “but by eating wild game that I caught myself, I am eliminating my reliance on the outside world for a small portion of my food. I am eliminating the possibility of contaminants that may occur in processing. It just TASTES better to me. “I have eaten many things that I simply do not like, be it texture or taste. Wild game in general tastes good to me. Deer, elk, rabbit, pheasant, duck, quail—all have a unique flavor profile. We [as a society] have an incredible wealth of food items out there that are different and wonderful, however, too many of us get sucked into the ‘fast and easy’ game of eating or feeding our families.” Not all of us have the luxury, skill or time to forage for our own meat, and other treasures the land provides. Luckily, we live in an area that boasts unique markets, artisanal butcher shops and restaurants inventive enough to have it on their menu. Kincaid’s Meat Market in Indianapolis has bison, quail, squab and duck in their case right now and lamb, goat, elk and buffalo can be found at the Meat Shop of Indianapolis, on High School Road. Nationally popular Maple Leaf Farms Pekin duck can be found both online and on many menus in Indiana, Illinois and Michigan. Recently they have started offering ground duck and duck bacon. Popular Indianapolis-based Goose the Market carries a varied selection as do the three Moody’s Butcher Shop locations in Central Indiana and Sahara Mart in Bloomington. Alternately, there is a seasonal selection of quail, veal, lamb and goat available at Binford Farmers’ Market. Claus’ German Sausage and Meats (formerly Klemm’s) on the south side of Indianapolis will process your game for you with required documentation. Locally farm-raised rabbit from Meat the Rabbit can be found on many Central Indiana menus such as Finch’s Brasserie in Bloomington, Late Harvest Kitchen, R Bistro, Libertine, 10:01, Bluebeard—all in Indianapolis—plus Indigo Duck in Franklin and the Local Eatery and Pub in Westfield. Educational opportunities are beginning to crop up and become more mainstreamed in Central Indiana. Hoosier Outdoor Heritage, a division of
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edible INDY WINTER 2013