Edible Baja Arizona - July/August 2015

Page 70

Yogurt is produced by the bacterial fermentation of milk. The bacteria used to make yogurt are known as yogurt cultures. The milk is heated to 180 degrees to kill any “bad” bacteria and to “denature” the milk proteins so that they set together and don’t form a curd. The milk is then cooled to about 112 degrees, the cultures are added, and then it sits for four to seven hours to allow fermentation. Fermentation of lactose by these bacteria produces lactic acid, which acts on milk protein to give yogurt its texture. To make Greek yogurt, during cooling, whey from the milk is strained off, usually by storing the mixture in a cloth bag overnight, and removed before the active cultures are mixed in. This result is a creamier yogurt “with more bite, more body, and more flavor,” Pastore says. The Greeks introduced this straining method hundreds of years ago—hence the title. Traditionally made with cow or ewe’s milk, the process produces a yogurt that is higher in protein, lower in lactose, and lower in carbohydrates. Working with an original culture that has now reproduced more than 100 generations of bacteria—that is, 100 batches of yogurt—the restaurant currently produces about 40 gallons of Greek yogurt a week. “By using our own culture, we keep the good bacteria alive and kicking,” Pastore says. “Having real Greek yogurt just goes along with supporting our mission to provide real and authentic food to our guests.” The entire process takes about 62 hours from start to finish. Pastore says that in the slow season during the summer, the restaurant will use two batches a week, four in the busier months. They sell their yogurt at the restaurant, and occasionally attend the St. Philip’s Plaza Farmers’ Market when supplies allow. Pastore and Chef Casey Yeaton have made other changes as well, including increasing their seafood selection, growing their own herbs on property, using local farmers’ products, and making every dish from scratch, with two exceptions: the gyro bread brought in from Chicago and the San Marzono tomatoes shipped from Italy. The tomatoes, Pastore says, are “the only thing in a can.” “Fresh grown tomatoes here are very inconsistent and we need that consistency in our sauces to maintain the recipes.” The changes seem to have only enhanced the dining experience. Walking around the restaurant each night, both Bridge and Pastore pay careful attention to what their customers have to say, where they’re from, and how they enjoyed their food preparation. “People tell us it’s like stepping out of Tucson and into Greece,” Bridge says. “It all comes down to hearing our customers’ story and building a rapport with them,” Pastore adds. “People don’t just come here for the food, they’re coming for the experience, and we’re part of that experience.” 70  July/August 2015

(Top) It’s sea to me: sautéed wild Mexican shrimp with a creamy feta sauce. (Bottom) A classic Greek sweet: baklava.


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