Edible Austin Spring 2023

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edible AUSTIN No. 86 Spring 2023 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE SPRING 2023 | Issue 86
edibleaustin.com 1 CONTENTS 2 FROM THE PUBLISHER 6 WHAT'S ON OUR COUNTER 8 NOTABLE EDIBLES What's Happening Around Austin 14 LOCAL LEGENDS Bluebonnet Cafe 18 FARMERS MARKETS Lone Star Farmers Market 20 EDIBLE ENDEAVOR Ezra Coffee 32 COOKS AT HOME Beto Robledo of Cuantos Tacos 36 FARMER'S DIARY Small Town Farm COVER Blackberry Compote Parfait (photo by Heather Barnes) THIS PAGE Butter Lettuce Salad (photo by Heather Barnes) Chef Beto Robledo (photo by Ralph Yznaga) RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE 26 BLACKBERRY COMPOTE PARFAIT WITH BASIL INFUSED WHIPPED CREAM 28 BUTTER LETTUCE SALAD WITH ROASTED CARROTS AND BEETS AND FRESH CILANTRO Spring 32 28

As we put the final touches on this issue of Edible Austin, we’re glad to be heading into spring and leaving our unpredictable Texas winter weather behind after the harsh freeze and all the damage that was done to the area’s plants, farm crops and beloved oak trees. We are hoping spring will bring mild weather with plenty of sunshine and ample rain to nourish the soil and reinvigorate growth all around.

The stories in this issue focus on how food can be such an integral part of our lives, not just in the way it provides for us nutritionally, but also in how heal our bodies, teach us about history, and bring people together through shared experiences across generations.

We start off by paying homage to one of our Local Legends, Blue Bonnet Cafe in Marble Falls, which has been providing friendly service, classic comfort food, all-day breakfast and, most importantly, made-from-scratch pies for more than 60 years. The cafe is family-owned and operated and they pride themselves on helping families create memories and strengthen bonds through their down-home cooking style and their desire to make every customer feel special. Next time you are out in the Marble Falls area, be sure to stop in for a bite to eat, and don’t forget to have a slice of pie (I recommend the coconut cream or German chocolate cream, but they are all delicious!).

We wanted to give a special thanks to our writer, Christina Garcia, who has helped bring back one of our favorite types of stories that we used to include prior to the pandemic called Cooks at Home. Christina takes us to the home of Beto Robledo, owner and chef of Cuantos Tacos on E. 12th Street. Not only does she share a delicious meal with Robledo, but she also learns about how his life has shaped his culinary skills and techniques — from his family experiences, to his stint at Uchiko, and, most recently how he persevered after open heart surgery with the help of his team at Cuantos Tacos and friends from other restaurants in the area.

In our feature about Jessica Taylor and her company, Ezra Coffee, we see how she turned her passion for coffee into a thriving business that also helps create community connections and provides education and cultural awareness by weaving together coffee making and storytelling.

At Small Town Farm outside Martindale, owners Cristen Andrews and Miguel Guerra share how they see their farm as a partnership with nature, where they spend a lot of their time building healthy soil and utilizing natural processes to create sustainable, thriving landscapes.

And, for those of you that like to try new dishes, our talented recipe writer and food photographer, Heather Barnes, provides us with some great recipes that utilize seasonal ingredients and are both easy to make and delicious. We hope you enjoy them as much as we did!

Happy spring to you all and we hope you enjoy this issue of

Edible Austin

PUBLISHER/EDITOR

Monique Threadgill monique@edibleaustin.com

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Ralph Yznaga ralph@edibleaustin.com

COPY EDITORS

Claire Cella

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Ashley Brown

Christina Garcia

Stacey Ingram Kaleh

Ava Motes

Yolanda Nagy

Addison Starr

Jamie Threadgill

Emily Treadway

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Cristen Andrews

Ashley Brown

Joi Conti

Patty Robertson

ADVERTISING SALES info@edibleaustin.com

Stephanie Walsh stephanie@edibleaustin.com

CONTACT US: 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com

2 Spring 2023
FROM THE PUBLISHER
Edible Austin is published by ATX Publications LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2023. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our apologies and notify us. Edible Austin is a member of Edible Communities. Edible Communities James Beard Foundation's Publication of the Year, 2011 for $35 /year SUBSCRIBE TO THE MAGAZINE AT edibleAUSTIN.com schitzcreek.com thirstymule.com local farmers & ranchers shop sustainably grown food from for locations, vendor lists & more info visit texasfarmersmarket.org saturdays 9a - 1p @ Lakeline sundays 10a - 2p @ Mueller double your benefits to spend on fresh fruits & vegetables with Snap (year-round) and WIC (April - October) THE LEANI NG PEAR ill C ountry - i nspired C uisine Unique. Well Crafted . Delicious. 111 W imberley 512-847- pear leaningpear . C om 111 River Road Wimberley TX 512-847-PEAR leaningpear.com Unique. Well-crafted. Delicious. Hill Country-Inspired Cuisine
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Cultured Carrot

Some of our new favorite items come from The Cultured Carrot, started by two moms who are passionate about creating more ways to enjoy the benefits of fermented foods. Palak Sadarangani and Kristin Simpson were inspired by increasing research on how fermented foods promote a healthy microbiome and gut — and they wanted to make a product that could be a daily kitchen staple that incorporated these healthful benefits, and also tastes good. The Cultured Carrot specializes in fermented vegetable dressings that can be used as marinades, dipping sauces, or salad toppings and are made from organic vegetables and pure avocado oil. They have four unique flavors to choose from including, “Unbeetable,” “Rooting For You,” “Beleafing,” and our favorite “Caulipower Ranch,” which is a creamy, tangy twist on traditional ranch dressing. Visit their website to learn more about their products or find them at the Mueller or Lakeline Farmers Markets as well as Wheatsville Food Co-ops and Farmhouse Delivery.

theculturedcarrot.com

Choccolatte’s Pecan English Toffee

This locally-made toffee could be your new favorite sweet treat. Started and run by Michele and Steve Parsons, Choccolatte’s toffee is handmade using fresh, high-quality ingredients — and is also gluten free.

Choccolatte’s “World’s Best Pecan English Toffee” can be enjoyed in three different ways: white, dark or milk chocolate. All three use creamy Belgian chocolate and locally-sourced pecans to create a buttery and indulgent treat. A visit to their shop located on Old Main Street in Marble Falls is a must. Not only do they offer their own toffee collection, but they also have an array of gelato, coffee and truffles. If you can’t make it to their store, check out their website to place an order or find a store near you that carries their delectable product. choccolattestx.com

Thanks Danks Beef Jerky

Looking for a local, delicious beef jerky to snack on? Look no further than Thanks Danks. Started in 2016 by Garret and Jordan Danks, this jerky is free from all additives that don’t belong in beef. Created without sugar, gluten, GMO, nitrates, corn, artificial flavor or liquid smoke, Thanks Danks is safe for everyone to enjoy. There are four different delicious flavors to try out. First is the classic “Original,” followed by the “Viper,” “Umai” and “Zydeco.” The “Viper” is inspired by F-16 fighter pilots who “heat doesn’t faze,” taking their original recipe and adding spices and peppers. The “Umai” combines East Asian flavors with their rich marinade, and the “Zydeco” is inspired by Louisiana Cajun cuisine. You can find these flavors on their website or at their commercial space at PrepATX, offering free daily pickups on any local order. thanksdanks.com

Lillian’s Dressing

This salad dressing and marinade recipe was created more than 60 years ago and has been a family tradition ever since. Crafted by hand, one bottle at a time, Lillian’s garlic infused vinaigrette is created with love and care — as well as non-GMO canola oil and not an ounce of sugar, gluten, thickeners or preservatives. A portion of the purchase of a bottle of Liilian’s goes directly to the National Alliance on Mental Illness, helping to support a good cause. Lillian’s is not just a salad dressing, either: check out the website for recipes that use Lillian’s such as roasted chicken thighs, a garlic tofu plate, baked feta and tomato and sautéed zucchini with shrimp. Lillian’s Dressing is available online and at various Central Market locations throughout Texas as well as the Pedernales and Good Shepherd Farmers Markets. lilliansdressing.com

edibleaustin.com 7 6 Spring 2023
WHAT'S ON OUR COUNTER
Writer Addison Starr enjoys traveling and exploring, spending time outdoors with friends, and discovering and sharing new products with Edible Austin readers.

BUFALINA RETURNS TO EAST AUSTIN

After a two-year hiatus from East Austin, beloved pizza joint Bufalina has reopened on East Cesar Chavez. The restaurant’s new home is about a half-mile east of the original location, which first got its start in 2013. With a new 20-year lease, Bufalina will continue to serve the neighborhood for decades to come.

“The core pizza menu is the same, but we have some new dishes,” says owner Steven Dilley.

Bufalina first made a name for itself with its variety of classic and innovative Neapolitan pizza flavors. The new Cesar Chavez location features the same popular pizzas with an expanded, revolving pasta and salad portion of the menu. These new dishes are created by Bufalina’s new chef, Grae Nonas, who was a co-founding executive chef at both Olamaie and Carpenters Hall.

Pizzas at the new location will still be prepared in the original oven, and guests can enjoy many of the same furniture and fixtures that have carried over from Bufalina’s first home. Their menu still features an extensive wine list and decadent desserts like a torta di ricotta (ricotta cake), pistachio ice cream and chocolate mousse.

as they developed the garden space for outdoor service.

The farm-to-table bistro and bakery is now fully back in business, albeit with a breezier picnic atmosphere.

Stop by at 2900 Rio Grande Street, Tuesday through Sunday. | For more details and updates, visit texasfrenchbread.com.

THE LOREN HOTEL OFFERS ELEVATED DINING AT NIDO

To elevate your hotel experience, or simply enjoy a dinner against the Austin skyline, visit Nido atop The Loren at Lady Bird Lake. Nido is a rooftop oasis in the new hotel, offering a sophisticated, modern, continental dining experience. The restaurant bills itself as “Austin’s most glamorous respite,” and for good reason.

afternoons, which is complete with classics like eggs benedict and smoked salmon hash.

Stop by Nido at the rooftop on 1211 W. Riverside Drive. Reservations are available on OpenTable, and more information can be found at thelorenhotels.com.

SOUTH AUSTIN IS HOME TO NEW DOVETAIL PIZZA

Bufalina is here for the long haul at 2215 E. Cesar Chavez St. Stop by for new dishes and nostalgic favorites. For more details, visit bufalinapizza.com.

GREAT NEWS! TEXAS FRENCH BREAD MAKES A COMEBACK

After a fire destroyed Texas French Bread a year ago, the restaurant and bakery has reopened with an outdoor garden space next door to its original location on Rio Grande Street. This garden bakery features a ‘70s airstream trailer that sells coffee and tea. There is also a table with sweets, pastries, breads, soups, sandwiches, and breakfast and lunch options. Customers can enjoy the best of the beloved bakery at communal tables with ample shade.

This new venture from Texas French Bread is led by co-owners Murph Wilcott and Carissa Ries, who were dedicated to resuming operations after the loss of the original location. Six months after a mechanical fire devastated the popular bakery, they returned to baking in a commercial kitchen hub space at PREP ATX. This allowed them to sell baked goods at local farmers markets

Nido is the last stop on The Loren’s sleek glass elevator, offering an impeccable bird’s-eye view above Lady Bird Lake and downtown. Their chic lounge space is furnished with ample booth and couch seating and a bar with an extensive curated selection of wine and spirits. The menu follows seasonal cues and incorporates rustic Hill Country flavors into refined contemporary cuisine. Nido’s specialties include beef short rib with Bordelaise, duck breast with tawny port reduction and octopus carpaccio. And, with

South Austin has a new pizza and pasta contender with the launch of Dovetail Pizza on South First Street. This walkable neighborhood restaurant takes a fresh and localized approach to familiar pizzas, salads and pastas. Featuring a full bar set against a warm and earthy space, Dovetail brings a relaxed late night experience to Bouldin Creek.

Dovetail is named for a woodworking term meaning “to fit skillfully to form a whole.”

This honors the cohesion among Present Tense Hospitality members behind the project, such as Swedish Hill partner Alex Manley and Salt & Time’s Ben Runkle and Natalie Davis. Manley prepares all the pizza dough and is the mastermind behind desserts while all of the meats on the menu are sourced from Salt & Time.

“Together, all these very talented, smart people create an extremely neighborhoodcentric, approachable, warm, inviting space where you know you can eat great food, grab a drink and hang out for a while,” says Cat Palmer, Dovetail’s general manager.

an emphasis on healthy and fresh ingredients, they offer a selection of plant-based dishes as well.

Nido is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. The restaurant also offers a brunch menu in the mornings and early

Dovetail is set apart as a neighborhood establishment with its reliably comfortable vibe and expertly prepared food. Menu highlights include the Salt & Time meat board, baked ricotta with butternut squash chutney, macaroni with pesto and shrimp, and build-your-own pizzas.

Dovetail Pizza is open for walk-in service Wednesday through Sunday. Parking is available on-site at 1816 S. First Street.

Visit dovetailpizza.com to peruse the menu and learn more.

edibleaustin.com 9 8 Spring 2023
Left Page Top: Photo by Bufalina Left Page Bottom: Photo by Nido Right Page Top: Photo by Texas French Bread Right Page Middle: Photo by Nido
NOTABLE EDIBLES WORDS BY AVA MOTES
Right Page Bottom: Dovetail photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

RANCH 616 DEBUTS WIGGLE ROOM

New from the Ranch 616 family is Wiggle Room: the so-called “eccentric uncle” of the iconic Southwestern Ice House. Wiggle Room is a themed bar offering a vintage West Texan atmosphere and signature drinks — including the iconic Ranch Water that put its sister bar on the map. The bar was a longtime project of Kevin Williamson, the late founder of Ranch 616. It pays homage to his time spent in West Texas with stiff drinks, disco lights and groovy music that promise a fresh take on decades-old good times.

Wiggle Room offers rotating classics, like the famed Ranch Water on tap, as well as an inventive drink menu designed by bar

MUM FOODS OPENS SMOKEHOUSE AND DELICATESSEN

An Austin Farmers Market staple, Mum Foods, has now opened a brick-and-mortar smokehouse and delicatessen in the Windsor Park neighborhood. Mum Foods first started selling classic smoked barbecue by the pound at local farmers markets. In 2012, they decided to experiment with making pastrami from overstock brisket and quickly earned a reputation as one of the best pastrami spots in town. After a previous stint as a “micro deli” next door to the old Eastside Cafe, they have now scaled up to an even larger commercial space on Manor Road.

The new Mum Foods location offers their popular pastrami by the pound and in barbecue sandwiches. These sandwiches are made with a range of house-made breads including sourdough rye, pumpernickel and beef tallow challah. Mum Foods also serves Central-Texas-style barbecue with locally sourced deli sides and made-from-scratch desserts.

Mum Foods has also partnered with another farmers market favorite, Talisman Coffee, to create a fully integrated coffee bar in their deli space. Other drink options include local craft beers on tap and a selection of wines to pair with barbecue.

Ashley Broder launched David Doughies: a new bagel stand at the Texas Farmers Market at Lakeline. David Doughies offers boiled and baked bagels, which honor the Washington D.C. delis of Devin’s youth. The Broders also bring local flair to their traditional bagels, using organic heirloom grains from Barton Springs Mill.

savory flavors, which are served with a range of custom schmears. The stand also features bagel sandwiches with house-smoked salmon and vegan alternatives like carrot lox. Devin suggests arriving early for pickup, as they typically sell out in a couple hours.

Stop by David Doughies at the Texas Farmers Market at 11200 Lakeline Mall Drive or visit daviddoughies.com to learn more.

AUSTIN AUTHOR DEBUTS TEXAS BBQ ADVENTURE GUIDE

New from Austin-based author Jason Weems is “Texas BBQ Adventure Guide: a Road Trip Through the History & How-To of Lone Star ‘Que.” The book takes readers on a journey through the smokehouses, roadhouses and barbecue food trucks throughout Texas. Weems wrote the book after traveling across 3,500 miles of Texas highways and byways to develop a roadmap through Texas’ culinary history.

and have continued to feature prominently in the new Ling Wu Asian Restaurant’s cuisine. Chef Wu pushes boundaries with this new venture, adding new dim sum items and unseen Wu family recipes to the menu. Ling Wu Asian Restaurant also offers a full bar with a modern Asian design by architect Evan Taniguchi.

manager Howard Franklin Holtoff, who previously managed Drink Well and Midnight Cowboy. The bar’s unique setting is formed by creative drinks, such as the La Pistola Rosa with tequila, pisco, Cocchi rosa, hibiscus, lemon, pepper jelly and cocoa. Wiggle Room also offers wine and beer. Although Wiggle Room is cocktail focused, they also offer snack mixes and Frito Pie to munch on until sold out.

Wiggle Room is now open at 612 Nueces Street in the West Sixth Street area. Although there is some walk-in space available, reservations are recommended and can be made at wiggleroomatx.com.

Stop by the new mega deli at 5811 Manor Road to try Mum Foods’ famed pastrami and so much more. They are open Wednesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. until they sell out (typically around 3 p.m.). Their original farmers market presence will also continue alongside their brick and mortar.

Visit mumfoodsatx.com for farmers market updates, catering inquiries and additional menu information.

LOCAL COUPLE BRINGS EAST COAST BAGELS TO AUSTIN

After months of baking authentic East Coast bagels for friends, chef Devin and

“We really pride ourselves on using highquality, local ingredients that you won’t be able to get a taste of anywhere else in the country,” Devin says.

Devin first developed his unique bagel recipe during the pandemic, as he experimented with preparing comfort foods for his family. He explained that it was difficult to make traditional bagels using his home mixer, so the Broders began mixing and rolling bagels by hand. As the demand grew for their product among friends, they invested in a spiral mixer named “Sir Mix a Lot.” However, Ashley has still rolled every bagel by hand to date.

David Doughies’ high quality bagels have become a Saturday morning staple with the opening of their farmers market stand. They offer plain bagels as well and sweet and

If you have ever wondered what divides the state into five main flavor regions, or how conquistadors and buccaneers made their mark on the local barbecue we love today, this is the book for you. Weems is a longtime Texas historian, known in Austin for his previous book, “A History Lover’s Guide to Austin.” He is also an award-winning singersongwriter, voice actor, podcaster and an event producer who breathes life into the barbecue history that he loves dearly.

“Texas BBQ Adventure Guide” offers pro tips and sizzling backstory, which will forever change the way readers enjoy a plate of barbecue.

Dive into the story purchasing from your nearest bookstore or online at jasonweems.com.

CHEF LING WU OPENS NEW RESTAURANT IN SOUTH AUSTIN

Ling Wu Asian Restaurant, the brainchild of renowned Chef Ling Qi Wu has opened its doors to South Austin. Chef Wu is best known as the chef behind Lin Asian Bar + Dim Sum, as well as the modern Asian restaurant Qi in Downtown Austin. Classic dumplings and noodle dishes are a part of Chef Wu’s DNA,

Ling Wu Asian Restaurant is now open at 7415 Southwest Parkway. There, dim sum lovers can enjoy lunch and dinner, as well as weekend dim sum brunch. Read more about them at lingwuatx.com.

edibleaustin.com 11 10 Spring 2023
Left Page Top: Photo by Mum Foods Left Page Bottom: Photo by Wiggle Room Right Page Top: Photos by David Doughies Right Page Far Top: Photo by Texas BBQ Adventure Guide
NOTABLE EDIBLES
Right Page Far Bottom: Photo by Ling Wu Ava Motes is an Austin native who follows the city's expanding food scene with an eye for the people and stories behind beloved menus. In her spare time, she loves trying new restaurants, exploring farmers markets, and relaxing in cafes with a good book in hand.

Austin Based Chefs Receive Recognition from 2023 James Beard Awards

Over the last decade, the city of Austin has experienced rapid expansion in the culinary world. With new restaurants emerging, and old favorites continuously improving, Austin has elevated its culinary scene. This is reflected in the 2023 James Beard nominations, where several Austin chefs and restaurants have been nominated for these prestigious awards.

Established in 1990, the James Beard Awards recognize exceptional talent and achievement in the culinary arts, hospitality, media, and broader food system and are some of the nation’s most distinguished honors.

The first chef nominated is Pastry Chef Mariela Camacho from the bakery Comadre Panadería , which celebrates her Xicana culture and women empowerment. There is a competitive race for

the Best Chef: Texas award between three extremely talented chefs: Tavel Bristol-Joseph from Canje, Kareem El-Ghayesh from KG BBQ , and Damien Brockway from Distant Relatives. Finally, The renowned La Condesa has been nominated for Outstanding Restaurant, while Suerte has been nominated for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages . With the high level talent that has been nominated, Austin is so excited for these incredible chefs and restaurants. Stay tuned for the finalists announcement in March and the winners announcement in early June!

12 Spring 2023
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Jamie Threadgill loves exploring all of the culinary experiences Austin offers. She gained her love for different cuisines from growing up with a chef as a father and enjoys living in a city with so much variety. When she's not busy, she loves to experience the natural beauty of the city by hiking and visiting farmers markets.

BLUE BONNET CAFE

In the Local Legends series, we shine the spotlight on a restaurant that’s been serving the community for more than three decades. These iconic spots have become part of the fabric of our shared culture, with multiple generations of Central Texans able to fondly reflect upon memories made at these beloved eateries. In a rapidly growing and changing region, they’ve stood the test of time. Yet, they still need our support so that they can be enjoyed by future generations. It’s time to rediscover the restaurants that keep our communities authentic, vibrant and resilient.

Is there ever a time when good home cooking and a slice of warm pie can’t heal the soul? While it can be exhilarating to explore new recipes and discover unexpected flavors, sometimes we just need a dose of the familiar, the reliable and the heartening. Next time you’re in search of a dose of comfort food and warm hospitality, know you’ll be welcomed at Blue Bonnet Cafe in Marble Falls.

Established in 1929, Blue Bonnet Cafe is renowned for its friendly service, all-day breakfast, classic diner dishes, and, most of all, its pies! The cafe has an entire pie menu, which includes more than a dozen flavors, from fruit pies to cream pies to pies with gravity-defying, towering meringue. After becoming regulars at the restaurant, John and Belinda Kemper purchased Blue Bonnet Cafe in 1981. Belinda is responsible for baking the pies, using recipes she learned from Ms. Baker who used to work for the Kempers and helped create the Blue Bonnet Café cookbook. In 2005, the Kempers’ oldest daughter, Lindsay Plante, and her husband David, both passionate about the food business, moved back to Marble Falls to help oversee café operations.

When the Kempers purchased the cafe, they made menu changes and additions that quickly became cafe staples and contributed to the stellar reputation the café enjoys today. “They kept the down-home cooking concept that already existed, but they added staple, everyday menu items, created a rotating schedule of daily soups, and, of course, developed the now famous pies,” says Lindsay. “Once they found the right mix of menu items, they stuck with it. Our menu has remained largely unchanged in the past 40 years. We've updated some recipes here and there and eliminated or added a few things, but very little is different. This consistency in menu

offerings is another reason why people love the Blue Bonnet Cafe. They know exactly what they are going to get every single time.”

Named not for the Texas state flower but for a “bonnet”-style hat, the cafe prides itself on its family values and making each and every customer feel special. “Creating memories, building traditions and strengthening bonds through our down-home cooking are really what we're all about,” says Lindsay. “We have created a special restaurant family that extends through multiple generations. We have moms and sons working together; moms and daughters working together; and sisters, cousins and aunts working together.” Lindsay mentions the cafe has nearly 80 employees, many of which have been with them for years and some that have celebrated 30 and even 40 years at Blue Bonnet.

Dedication to customers and community motivates Lindsay, her family, and Blue Bonnet cafe employees to continue serving up great food and service through the years. “The familiar faces are a huge part of what people love about the Blue Bonnet Cafe,” Lindsay explains. “Some even wait in line until they can be seated in a particular server's section. We have customers who have been served by the same person for more than 20 years. The server knows exactly what they want and how they like it cooked. That's what makes people feel at home in our restaurant.”

Another aspect that personally motivates Lindsay to carry forward her parents’ legacy is the fond memories she has of growing up in the restaurant from the interactions with customers — her first jobs being rolling silverware and busing tables. She shares a few anecdotes: stories of grandparents bringing their grandchildren to the cafe on the way home for the holidays, and a couple who first came on their honeymoon and, 60 years later, still return each year on their anniversary. “We have some local families that can trace their ancestry back five or six generations, which is certainly something that fits our restaurant's personality — a father brings his son to sit at the counter and eat pancakes before school because his dad used to do that with him when he was a kid,” she explains.

Beyond its significance as a community gathering place, Blue Bonnet Cafe represents a piece of Central Texas history and important architectural elements to the building should not be overlooked. According to Lindsay, construction on the current building began in 1946, when World War II made steel scarce and expensive. Lyndon Baines Johnson, a state senator at the time, helped secure the steel used to lay the foundation.

Many may know Marble Falls for its pink granite, which was used for the construction of the Texas State Capitol. This granite also plays a role in

the Kempers’ family history and in the Blue Bonnet Cafe. John Kemper’s father, George, started a granite manufacturing business in Marble Falls called Granite Time after retiring from the United States Air Force. “George crafted all of the granite countertops and tables inside Blue Bonnet Cafe. The restaurant became a showcase of different granite varieties in the early 80s. The large, round table in the “old” dining room weighs more than 600 pounds,” Lindsay shares.

14 Spring 2023 LOCAL LEGENDS
“We've updated some recipes here and there and eliminated or added a few things, but very little is different. This consistency in menu offerings is another reason why people love the Blue Bonnet Cafe. They know exactly what they are going to get every single time.”

She also credits the cafe’s location in Marble Falls — a top recreational destination with gorgeous lakes and hills — and its residents and community leaders as part of its longstanding success. “Marble Falls is full of very special people who are committed to keeping the small town charm while fostering responsible growth. Our local leaders are extremely supportive of local businesses and entrepreneurs. “

Lindsay has seen Marble Falls grow and change a lot in her lifetime, and looks forward to a bright future as the city prioritizes its parks and public spaces, expands housing opportunities and welcomes more young families. The café is adapting to the change while staying true to its roots and recipes.

There’s no time like the present to start a new tradition, take a piefueled road trip or return to a longtime favorite restaurant. Take a beautiful Hill Country drive to Blue Bonnet Cafe, bring your friends and start a debate over which pie you think is best. Be sure to try Lindsay’s personal favorite, peanut butter cream with a little bit of chocolate syrup drizzled on top!

Order Up!

May We Suggest:

Go for a breakfast plate any time of day! Try the “Two Eggs with Chicken Fried Steak” plate served with your choice of hash browns or grits and Texas Toast, a biscuit or thin toast.

Blue Bonnet café offers homemade biscuits, cinnamon rolls, donuts, yeast rolls and corn bread every day, so be sure to add one (or more!) to your order.

Ask about daily specials such as Chicken and Dumplings (Tuesday), Sour Cream Chicken Enchiladas (Friday) and St. Louis Smoked Pork Ribs (Saturday).

And, of course, save room for pie! We recommend ordering a few different slices, such as Coconut Cream, German Chocolate Cream or Lemon Meringue and Pecan for the table so you can try multiple varieties from the Blue Bonnet’s famous selection.

Visit the Blue Bonnet Cafe at 211 N. US Hwy. 281 in Marble Falls. Learn more online at bluebonnetcafe.net.

edibleaustin.com 17 16 Spring 2023
LOCAL LEGENDS
Stacey Ingram Kaleh is a native Texan and writer and editor for Edible Austin When she’s not eating at local restaurants and drinking Texas wine, she’s spending time outdoors in the Hill Country with her husband and two young daughters and soaking up as much live music and art as possible.

LONE STAR FARMERS MARKET

Hello farmers market foodies! Looking for local eats, live music and Sunday fun for the whole family? Take the scenic route along State Highway 71 to the Hill Country Galleria in Bee Cave, and visit the Lone Star Farmers Market. Don’t worry if you can’t see it at first, just drive into the parking lot, beyond the trees and Bee Cave City Hall, and then you will begin to see the colorful tents lining the exterior walls of the Galleria.

I 'd heard good things about this market, which made me excited to meet with Richie Romero, the market’s proprietor and manager. Romero works in technology during the week, but his fun job is being there every Sunday at the market. "I started this market in Lakeway, then we moved to Bee Cave six years ago, and many of my vendors have been with me from the beginning. Come let me show you around," Romero says. As we walked, Romero mentioned he started his market because he wanted to give entrepreneurs a place to thrive by offering affordable booth fees and fair rules. "So many markets are stringent, and we are, too, but only if it is related to safety. This is our community, and we like to have fun!"

Romero introduced me to one of his long-time vendors, Don Moore, owner of Dad's Premium Granola. Moore looked at me with a smile and said, "This market is my second home. If Richie moves, I'll be right behind him." As we continued walking, I stopped to talk to other vendors and ask questions. I highly recommend you do this when visiting any market as you're bound to learn something new.

As we moved through the market, I was stopped by David Benford, the owner of Big Brazos Sustainable Farm. That day he was cracking pecans with his nutcracker and passing out samples. "Try this," he says. He dropped a huge golden brown pecan in my hand, and I tossed it in my mouth. It was one of the tastiest pecans I had ever eaten. "We hand-pick our pecans and sell homemade bite-size pecan pies and oils," says Benford. What I love most about farmers markets is

Thanks Danks and their all-natural beef jerky. They have four flavors to choose from and samples to try. If you like teriyaki flavors, like I do, buy their savory Umai Jerky. I also picked up a pound of Hatchitt Hill Ranch's Wagyu ground beef and had the opportunity to meet a new vendor, Jessica Fischer, CEO of Sky Roaster Coffee.

As the tour ended, I made one last stop at Pork Booty ATX. The owner, Adrian Viloria, marinates his pork overnight. Before the market opens, he pierces the pork on a skewer and sears it over a flaming fire until it's a beautiful, charred color. The aroma fills the air and there's a line waiting for his cut-to-order pork sandwiches. It was a perfect way to end a shopping day at the Lone Star Farmers Market.

So grab the family, or take a few friends, and remember this tip: always keep a small cooler in the car for the meats you buy and bring a few reusable bags for your vegetables and dry goods. Plan to spend half the day at the Lone Star Farmers Market because farmers markets are meant to be savored.

Thanks, Richie, for the tour!

that you buy everything straight from the seller. There are no middlemen. The farmers and producers can provide accurate information regarding any product if you have questions and, like Benford, they love talking about their products — and letting you taste them, too!

If you have toured as many Austin farmers markets as I have, you know you're at a great market when you see the SoCo Ginger Beer booth. I couldn't resist buying one of my favorites, their prickly pear ginger beer. As we moved to the other side of the market, I ran into my friends Garret and Jordan, the owners of

edibleaustin.com 19 18 Spring 2023
FARMERS MARKETS
WORDS BY YOLANDA NAGY | PHOTOS BY JOI CONTI
in
Hill Country Blvd.
Cave, Texas Every Sunday 10 a.m.–2 p.m. 50 + Vendors Plenty of parking Dog friendly lonestarfarmersmarket.com Instagram: @lonestarfarmersmarket
Lone Star Farmers Market
Lone Star Farmers
Market Central Plaza Hill Country Galleria
Bee Cave 12700
Bee
Facebook:
@eatin_and_sippin_locally
Yolanda Nagy travels throughout Texas highlighting farmers markets to share easy recipes and shopping tips. Follow her
on Instagram
Left Page: Curtis Hatchitt from Hatchitt Hill Ranch Right Page Top Left: Richie Romero of Lone Star Farmers Market and long-time vendor, Dan Moore. Right Page Top Right: Jessica Fisher from Sky Roasters
MAY 5, 2023 Experience the exhilaration of COTA’s world-class Formula 1 racetrack from the inside of a supercar! ridedrivegive.org HOT LAPS STARTING AT $250!
Right Page Bottom: David Benford from Big Brazos Sustainable Farm

GROUNDED IN love

Coffee aficionado Jessica Taylor is adding her own flavor and flair to the coffee scene with the opening of Ezra Coffee, a company that blends Taylor’s passions for storytelling, history and her love of the caffeinated beverage. She wanted to create a premium-flavored, ethically sourced specialty coffee brand, but one that also, and most importantly, offers community connections with a focus on education and culture.

Not a small order.

But when deciding what to call her brand, Taylor’s dreams fell into place with a name. In Hebrew, Ezra means “He who helps.” The meaning spoke to her. As the former assistant director of recruitment and retention at Purdue University, Taylor had helped students enroll in and graduate from college. Having seen firsthand students leaving school due to financial reasons, Taylor became passionate about helping them achieve their higher education goals.

The Ezra Scholar’s Scholarship donates a portion of its profits of its coffee sales to students seeking four-year degrees from

various colleges and universities. “With this initiative,” Taylor states, “we hope that Ezra Coffee can both inspire the community as well as help students achieve their dreams of obtaining a college degree.”

Learning is important to Taylor. Even the packaging of Ezra Coffee was created to be educational with its logo and graphics taken from Ghanian Adinkra symbology and narratives.

“Ezra Coffee’s packaging is a storytelling vehicle,” Taylor explains. “When you hold a package of Ezra Coffee in your hand, you hold a package designed to connect people on a greater level with short stories [printed on the back] about the

legacies and experiences of African Americans who have contributed to our collective American history.”

With the pour of every cup, Ezra Coffee strives to educate audiences about the interconnectedness of Black and American history by telling the stories of often unsung heroes. This history is also reflected in the names of the coffee blends, such as Lorde Baldwin, named after two iconic Black literary activists, Audre Lorde and James Baldwin, and the Le Grand Duc, named in honor of Eugene Bullard, the first Black combat pilot in World War I and owner of a famous Parisian nightclub. These are just two examples of the histories shared through Ezra Coffee. Remembering mornings spent with her grandfather while he drank his coffee and read the newspaper, Taylor feels the stories on the company’s packaging are perfect to read while “waiting for your coffee to brew or while sipping and relaxing a moment before beginning your day.” Many of the highlighted histories are not well-known stories and, Taylor adds, “I want people to leave Ezra saying, ‘Wow, I didn’t know that.’”

Ezra Coffee currently sells six different coffee blends. These range from light to dark roasts, and include three flavored blends. Taylor began playing with the idea of flavored coffees after her sister developed a lactose intolerance and could no longer add flavored creamers to her coffee. More flavors and blends are in the works, but Ezra Coffee presently offers “delicious flavors that we all know and love yet are unique in the flavored coffee space, such as our very popular Candied Yams,” Taylor says. Candied Yams is a light roast blend that integrates the sweet taste of the classic southern dish while also highlighting the yams’ voyage from West Africa all the way to Tuskegee, Alabama, where Dr. George Washington Carver historically used the yams in 500 different ways.

Other flavors are Toasted Southern Pecan and the cognac-infused Le Grand Duc. “Our

coffees appeal to every type,” Taylor says. “Ezra Coffee creates an experience for the novice sipper to the most experienced coffee drinker.”

Ezra Coffee is sold online at ezracoffeeco. com, Target.com and at over 40 H-E-B stores.

Ezra Coffee offers samplers for those new to the coffee scene and subscriptions for those who know what they like.

With so many coffee brands to choose from today, Taylor has established herself and Ezra Coffee firmly in the history books. Whether through giving back and being of service to the community, through the company’s scholarship program, internships, mentorships or Ezra Coffee’s exceptional roasts and tastes, Taylor is proud of the work she’s already accomplished.

Expect to see more coffee blends, flavors and growth from Ezra Coffee in the future. But, whatever happens, Taylor wants her consumers to

know, “When you purchase an Ezra Coffee blend, you’re supporting the history and empowerment of others.”

You can follow Ezra Coffee on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and TikTok @ezracoffeeco.

As soon as she learned to read and write, that's all Emily Treadway wanted to do. She loves Texas history and, while she hates cooking, she loves eating, especially the diverse tastes and flavors of Texas cuisine.

edibleaustin.com 21 20 Spring 2023
EDIBLE ENDEAVOR
WORDS BY EMILY TREADWAY | PHOTOS BY EZRA COFFEE EZRA COFFEE BLENDS STORYTELLING WITH COFFEE MAKING
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LIVING THE WELLNESS LIFESTYLE

Rough Hollow Lakeway and Tuscan Village Horseshoe Bay make healthy living as easy as stepping outside your home

Just outside of Austin are two resort-style communities, Rough Hollow Lakeway and Tuscan Village Horseshoe Bay, which are dedicated to providing their residents fulfilling and active lifestyles. Both communities enable this lifestyle by their masterfully planned amenities, as well as providing a socially rich environment for all ages.

Rough Hollow Lakeway provides direct access to beautiful Lake Travis and the Hill Country. Living in Rough Hollow is “more than a lifestyle, it’s a way of life.” The heart of this community, Highland Village, is the community center that provides yearround activities and fun for residents and guests. The community center is waterthemed with a children’s pool, splash pad, a lazy river and an adult pool with a swim-up bar. Highland Village also provides world-class facilities that contribute to an active lifestyle including tennis, basketball and pickleball courts, a soccer field, sand volleyball, and a playscape for children. These amenities allow Rough Hollow residents to participate in physical activities, without leaving the comfort of their neighborhood. Having an active social sphere is key to living an active life and Rough Hollow also enables this by having an event pavilion with a demonstration kitchen that

residents can rent out to host events. They even have “The Rough Life Director,” whose job is to hold community events for residents to enjoy like yoga in the pavilion, festive holiday celebrations, and resident appreciation events.

Another aspect of an active lifestyle that Rough Hollow provides is unparalleled access to the Hill Country and Lake Travis. There are over 22 miles of hiking and bike trails with spectacular scenic views. Even better, Rough Hollow has three miles of Lake Travis shoreline with access to the Rough Hollow Yacht Club & Marina. Here, residents are provided complimentary paddle boards and kayaks for lake fun. The Yacht Club also features world-class cuisine and residents get a 10% discount. From the world class amenities, stunning Hill Country views and socially active events, Rough Hollow is perfectly designed to promote the active and healthy lifestyle that people today seek.

Another great lifestyle community, Tuscan Village, is located in the prestigious Horseshoe Bay Resort Community. This peaceful oasis is expertly designed for residents aged 55+ to escape the hectic city life. Tuscan Village welcomes residents into “The Good Life,” which consists of rolling hills with beautiful views, active lifestyles, and a plentiful social life. Like Rough Hollow, Tuscan Village offers a resort-style community with world class amenities meant to promote a wellness-oriented lifestyle.

Club Salus is the epicenter of the community, a private resident’s club. Club Salus offers two popular pickleball courts, an

outdoor lap pool, a fully equipped fitness center and a dedicated yoga studio with a trained yoga instructor for private classes. Like Rough Hollow, Tuscan Village believes that part of living an active lifestyle is having access to fresh air and nature and provides walkable nature trails throughout the neighborhood for residents to explore. There is also covered outdoor seating and a grill at Club Salus that residents can enjoy. Tuscan Village also encourages residents to have a fulfilling social life by hosting many different events and has begun an expansion of the facilities including a community great room as well as a multipurpose event space that residents are able to rent out to host their own events and clubs.

“In May of 2021 we came to Horseshoe Bay for the annual Golf on The Rocks tournament,” say Tuscan Village residents Greg & Doree. “After being enthralled with

Left page: 4 golf courses at Tuscan Village Horseshoe Bay

Above: Pickleball at Tuscan Village

Top Right: Lazy River at Rough Hollow

Middle Left: Horsehoe Bay Marina

Middle Right: Rough Hollow Fitness Center

Below Right: Rough Hollow Marina

Below Left: Pool at Tuscan Viillage

Bottom: Yoga at Rough Hollow

AMENITIES

• 4 Renowned Golf Courses

• Tennis

• Pickleball

• Expansive Fitness Center

• Boating, Fishing & Water Recreation at Lake LBJ

• Hiking Trails

• Dog Park

• Community Garden

the area, we thought that perhaps we could leave California and decided on the spot to move forward. The draw for us were the four golf courses, amazing friends we made over the years and a lifestyle that we both enjoy. Here in Tuscan Village, we have wonderful neighbors and a laid-back lifestyle. We enjoy the many activities that the resort offers and are learning that you really DO have to learn to say “no,” as we could be going places every night of the week! This is our forever home.”

Learn more at tuscanvillage.com or call 830.693.0424 & roughollowlakeway.com or call 512.617.1776.

AMENITIES

• Miles of Hike and Bike Trails

• Prestigious Yacht Club & Marina

• Expansive Fitness Center

• Adult Pool with Swim-Up Bar

• Lazy River

• Children's Playscape

• Tennis, Pickleball & Basketball Courts

• Soccer Field

• Sand Volleyball

• Dog Park

edibleaustin.com 25 24 Spring 2023
SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE

SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS

ThisSpring

Bok Choy, Green and Red Cabbage, Kohlrabi, Napa Cabbage

Broccoli, Cauliflower, Romanesco

Easter Egg Radish, Scarlet Turnip, Watermelon Radish, Fennel, Beets

Garlic, Leeks, Shallots, Spring Onions, Sweet Onions

Microgreens, Salad Greens

Mustard Greens, Rainbow Chard, Spinach

Texas Ruby Red Grapefruit (until April)

And... Strawberries!

From the Water Crawfish

Soft-shell Crab (from April)

Black Drum, Sheepshead, Spanish Mackerel

For more information on farmers markets, seasonal recipes and what’s in season, visit edibleaustin.com

Blackberry Compote Parfait with Basil Infused Whipped Cream

Recipe and photos by Heather Barnes

Serves 4

½ c. sugar

2 c. fresh blackberries

1 T. corn starch or arrowroot starch

Juice from ½ lemon

2 T. water

PREPARATION

Dissolve the sugar with blackberries in a saucepan over low to medium heat for about 5 minutes until the blackberries become mushy. Add in the remaining ingredients and reduce heat to low. Stir every minute for 10 minutes until it thickens. Remove from heat and cool completely before serving.

WHIPPED CREAM

2 T. fresh basil

1 c. heavy cream

2 T. powdered sugar

PREPARATION

Chop basil to release flavor and add to a bowl with the heavy cream. Let sit in the fridge for 4 to 8 hours. Strain the basil out and beat with a hand mixer until stiff peaks form. Add powdered sugar a tablespoon at a time and continue to beat. Serve right away.

Assemble your favorite yogurt in layers with granola of your choice, a layer of blackberry compote and top with the basil-infused whipped cream.

26 Spring 2023
What's In Season

Butter Lettuce Salad with Roasted Carrots and Beets and Fresh Cilantro

Recipe and photos by Heather Barnes

Serves 4

4 beets, quartered

6 carrots, cut in half longways

2 heads butter lettuce, chopped

½ c. strawberries, halved Cilantro, for garnish

VINAIGRETTE

3 T. olive oil

½ T. Dijon mustard

½ T. fresh lemon juice

1 t. honey

Salt and pepper to taste

PREPARATION

Set oven to 450°. Drizzle beets and carrots with a little olive oil and salt and pepper. Roast beets and carrots for 30 minutes or until browned.

After going to art school and culinary school, Heather Barnes found her passion for photography and food styling. She loves spending time with her family, cooking, and entertaining. You can view more of her work at HeatherBarnes.com or on Instagram at @heatherbarnesphoto.

edibleaustin.com 29 What's In Season
photo by Mockup Graphics

WE NEED YOU

Volunteers are the heart and soul of the Food Bank. This past year they have been essential in helping us feed our neighbors impacted by the rising cost of inflation. But we still need your help!

As our community continues to struggle with economic recovery, we urgently need volunteers to help nourish the 60,000 Central Texans we serve every week.

edibleaustin.com 31 30 Spring 2023
up today at centraltexasfoodbank.org/volunteer
and
Happy Hour Indoor and
Dining
Will you answer the call? Sign
Warm
Friendly Neighborhood Restaurant
Outdoor
Private Parking Lot Open Seven Days a Week Weekend Brunch 1417 South 1st St. Austin, TX 78704 512-551-2430 1417frenchbistro.com info@1417atx.com

Cooking from the Heart

BETO ROBLEDO SERVES UP AUTHENTICITY AT CUANTOS TACOS

Other cooks put love in their food. At the yellow food truck called Cuantos Tacos on E. 12th Street, Luis “Beto” Robledo adds something more — authenticity. He’s created a daydream. The name means, literally, “How many tacos?” and the easiest, most mouth-watering answer may be the best: try them all. At a mere $12 for all six tacos on the menu, the price seems miraculous. What Robledo gets out of the bargain is a shot of adrenaline. After all, he isn’t allowed to get it any other way — he has a heart condition. Cooking gives him “a rush,” he told us. We think you can taste it in the food.

The longaniza, cachete, buche, suadero, carnitas and champinones tacos come cradled in soft yellow corn tortillas. They steal your heart. They wake you up. They offer a grounding moment of presence with their earthy, bright flavors. The Mexico City-style street tacos become a quick obsession. It’s not just the meat. It’s the fluttering layer of cilantro and fine dice of white onions like a sprinkle of crystals. It’s the green and red salsas, protected by NDA agreements signed by each employee. But the verdict is clear. Dozens of “Best-Of” and “Must-Try” lists confirm: these are possibly the best Mexico City-style street tacos in Austin.

When we met Robledo for dinner at his home on the East Side, he confessed two surprising facts: despite his Mexican background, he first tasted many of the meats he subsequently decided to serve at Cuantos in 2018 during his first visit to Mexico City. He also got close to a heart rupture in 2020 that could have killed him.

If a time machine took Robledo back to meet his younger self, the child would be stunned. While he’s got a sophisticated palate now, he tells us kid Robledo was “capital P” picky when it came to eating. “I didn’t eat vegetables. No vegetables,” he said. “I wouldn’t eat onions. I would just eat meat, rice, potatoes and beans. Very cut and dry.”

A native Austinite, Robledo saw his future in skilled trades before he ever considered food as a profession. Family members worked in construction and automotive repair and he planned to join them. At age 16, his first job at KFC changed those goals. A manager who arrived toting textbooks from Le Cordon Bleu stoked Robledo’s curiosity enough that he scheduled a tour of the culinary institute and never looked back. The first challenge he faced at school, he told us with a laugh, was learning to properly chop an onion. Robledo interned at Uchiko to wrap up his coursework at Le Cordon Bleu. The exacting, precise standards of an internationally renowned Japanese kitchen fascinated him. Japanese technique, he explained, scaffolds his cooking style today, along with French and Mexican techniques. For example, Cuantos cuts with thin, sharp knives — like the Japanese. Raw onions and cilantro at Cuantos are never bulky, crushed, bruised or limp. Especially for cilantro, he said, more processing destroys the flavor.

“It tastes totally different,” he says. Cuantos knives are sharpened regularly.

edibleaustin.com 33 32 Spring 2023
COOKS AT HOME

Robledo also uses a wide pan with a domed center — a chorizera — from Mexico City at Cuantos. The pan allows meat to cook in its own fat in a confit technique with French roots, he says.

Just as influential in his cooking, a personal family trinity looms large. Robledo’s hand at seasoning, mixing and palate are heirlooms from his late aunt, late grandmother and mother. With a strong, delicate palate, Robledo’s aunt taught him to first smell and then taste food. He uses a ladle instead of a whisk or spatula — like his grandmother — incorporating air from the bottom of a pot to create a blender-like vortex.

As the stove bubbled with a pot of pork ribs in his kitchen, Robledo worked in batches, blending and adding bouillon and salsa. He then gently dipped a spoon into his boiling pot directly over a bubble and brought it to the sink to taste. The pork’s collagen had begun to break down, imparting a velvety texture.

“I can smell when something is too salty or needs salt,” he tells us. “That’s not too far off.” He would get feedback on the flavor from his mother later, he told us. The dish would be passed down to his daughter, an animating life force for Robledo. Because his mother suffers from stage five Parkinson’s Disease, the recipe is part of a handful he’d been urgently recreating. He used every scent and flavor in his memory. The same process goes for recreating tacos he tries in Mexico City.

During a pivotal first visit to Mexico City in 2018, Robledo made note of the smell and taste of his favorite tacos, from the first bite to the final burp. It was the year he tried types of tacos he had never had before. Inspired by places like Tacos El Charly, El Vilsito and Los Cocuyos, he opened Cuantos Tacos in Austin in 2019.

Two years later, he hit a speedbump.

Robledo prepared fresh flour tortillas in his kitchen, kneading dough with long fingers, and we asked about the open-heart surgery he referenced in an Instagram post. On his second trip to Mexico City in 2020, heavy eating and lack of rest triggered Pancreatitis. Despite his inherited genetic disorder called Marfans Syndrome, Robledo was uninsured and skipped his check-ups with a doctor. Upon a 2020 hospitalization for Pancreatitis, he learned that his heart was near rupture, and he underwent open heart surgery early the following year.

Robledo showed us the foot-long, slick pink scar over his sternum where he said his chest was cracked open during the operation. His kidneys failed, he told us. He had to learn to walk again. He was unable to speak for weeks. Everything tasted like iron, he says, and he lost 100 pounds in two months. “It felt like I was watching the poltergeist TV screen where everything was going in and out. Everything looked digitized.”

The Cuantos Tacos crew kept the truck running smoothly while Robledo recovered and his friends at Nixta, Discada, Suerte and Comedor all checked in on him. Ultimately, his five-year-old daughter gave him the motivation to heal. Her smiling photo is the only one in his living room when we visit him.

Robledo still heads to Mexico City to gather inspiration from “the mecca for street tacos.” Food trends stay on his radar this way — like tortas improbably loaded with tacos inside. And far from resigned or defeated by health woes, he tells us how he wants to open a Cuantos Tacos in New York City. Preferably, he says, it will be a hole in the wall like his favorite Mexico City taco joint, Los Cocuyos, near the Plaza Zocalo. He’s also just added breakfast tacos to the menu at Cuantos. Robledo’s heart beats strong with ideas for the future of food, lucky for us.

Beto's Flour Tortillas

3 c. flour

2 t. salt kosher or table)

2 t. baking powder

1 stick of butter

PREPARATION

Mix the dry ingredients in medium bowl and set aside. Bring water to boil and turn heat off as soon as the water boils, then add the butter. Melt the butter in the water, then mix into the flour while the butter is still warm. Form the dough into a smooth ball, cover, and let dough rest for ten minutes.

Dust a countertop with a bit of flour and then dust the ball of dough. Using the counter as your new workspace, fold the dough in on itself and then flatten, repeating the process several times. Divide the dough ball into roughly eight balls of equal size. Roll each ball out with a rolling pin until it is flat and thin, about eight inches in diameter. Cook each tortilla on a hot comal, about two minutes and then turn OR turn when it begins to bubble, heating until the tortilla is cooked through and a nice golden color.

edibleaustin.com 35 34 Spring 2023
COOKS AT HOME
Christina Garcia writes about music and travel and recently became a published author with the 2022 release of 52 Things to Do in Austin & San Antonio

Small Farm. Big Dreams

SMALL TOWN FARM IS CULTIVATING THE LAND AND A BUSINESS

Small Town Farm is the permaculture passion project of Cristen Andrews and Miguel Guerra. The one-acre farm outside of Martindale is a wonderland of fruit trees, vegetable plants, herbs, medicinal plants, “volunteer plants” (plants that just show up and thrive), and critters like harvester ants and armadillos. On the acre sits a tiny house the two built together in addition to a 100-year-old farmhouse that they call home.

Andrews and Guerra met at Emo’s in Austin in 2006. “We discovered that we had a lot of things in common, like our passion for gardening, creating things, saving animals and cooking big meals to share,” says Andrews. “And though at the time neither of us was looking for a relationship, we started hanging out all the time and have been hanging out ever since.”

For Guerra, Austin had been a pit stop on the way to San Francisco right after high school — but he fell for the city and the locals and never left. Guerra moved to Austin with his grandpa’s World War II tote bag and a skateboard. “I started working in kitchens and trained to be a chef the old-school way: from dishwasher on up,” he says. In 1997, he started a small eatery on the corner of 22nd and Guadalupe, called Spudnik. After four years in business, he moved on to help a friend start a skatepark in Austin and worked a variety of “cool jobs like Vulcan Video,” all while learning carpentry.

Andrews and Guerra called Austin home until 2018 when the couple found a small piece of land. “The house on it was in rough shape and the land a blank slate in a lot of ways, which was perfect for us,” says Andrews. “It's offered us a chance to pour our energy into the space and connect with it in a deep way."

Like Guerra, Andrews is a person of many talents and interests. She studied photojournalism at the University of Texas at Austin, worked for an internet marketing startup for many years, and has been working successfully as an educational writer for 15 years.

“In my mid 20s, I won a free trip around the world from a photo contest and spent the year traveling by myself,” says Andrews. “That experience was life-changing. It inspired a lot more travel over the years, and my love for learning about other cultures and their cuisines seeps into everything I do. I studied herbalism at the Wildflower School of Botanical Medicine, got my permaculture design certification from the Austin Permaculture Guild, and I’m loving the process of applying a lot of what I learned on our land.”

Permaculture is ecological design based on the practice of considering your space as a living ecosystem. It involves careful observation of that ecosystem to understand how one can work with natural processes to create sustainable, healthy, thriving landscapes. “It’s important to acknowledge that the core ethics and principles of permaculture are deeply grounded in Indigenous knowledge from around the world. The phrase ‘permaculture’ is relatively new, but the foundational elements are not,” explains Andrews.

“Rather than forcing our desired outcome on the land and planting crops in isolation [like most traditional farming practices], we spend a lot of time mindfully observing how the land wants to be shaped and how all the small pieces fit together,” she says. They spend a lot of time building healthy soil, cultivating wild edible weeds and perennials and self-seeding plants that serve multiple functions, and allowing the garden to evolve slowly and organically. “The system continues to grow and expand over time,” she says, and they are able to reinvest abundance back into the system so it gets stronger every year.

36 Spring 2023
FARMERS DIARY
Left Page: Photos by Cristen Andrews Right Page: Andrews and Guerra photo by Ashley Brown

Andrews and Guerra started Small Town Farm in October of 2020 — spurred on by requests from friends and community who were interested in their produce and products. They’ve always had big gardens wherever they have lived and enjoy connecting with friends and community through shared food, gardens and inspiration.

As the pair has cultivated the land and their business, they’ve maintained a flexible “let’s try it and see what happens” attitude, says Andrews. “It’s important to take risks and try new things, knowing not everything we do will be successful, but even the things that fail are valuable lessons that help us learn and grow. When gardening, you can plant a lot of seeds and some may take much longer to germinate than others. It’s the same with ideas. On the surface, some may not seem very productive or fruitful initially. But they’re often just lying dormant, gathering energy, and waiting for their time to shine.”

Andrews and Guerra see their farm as a partnership with nature. Their mission goes beyond their ecosystem and farm. Andrews and Guerra want to share their passion and knowledge so that more people feel comfortable and confident in growing their own food and medicines. “The goal is to normalize this way of living, and we joke that hopefully our business will eventually be obsolete because everyone will be doing it. What a cool world that would be, right?” says Andrews.

For people who might want to get started gardening, she offers this advice: “It’s a lifelong learning process, and you just have to start. Even if you have a few containers on your porch, you can start. Choose a few plants and get to know them well. Spend time with them, sit with them, and learn what they have to teach you. A lot of the wild plants growing in our yards that many people consider weeds are also foods and medicines too, so don’t forget to pay attention to what’s already growing and thriving around you. Oftentimes these are exactly what you need.”

While they’re not certified organic (which can be quite a financial burden and lengthy process), Small Town Farm is organic in practice and all the herbs they use in their products are homegrown or organically sourced. When asked what each of their favorite plants on the farm are, Guerra chooses the curry tree and tatume squash because they’re prolific, hardy and not very common. He also likes oregano and bee balm because they help alleviate his respiratory issues. Andrews has a harder time choosing.

“Oh, so many!” she says. “Yarrow is top on the list because it’s beautiful, evergreen, serves a variety of functions in the landscape, and is a wonderful first aid plant [it’s antimicrobial and effective in stopping bleeding]. Passionvine is another one. It thrives in the heat of the summer and rambles over fence lines. It’s a host plant to swallowtail butterfly larvae, its otherworldly flowers are always covered in bees, and it’s a great nervine

herb that supports the nervous system. Then there’s rosemary, holy basil, bee balm, lemon balm, chamomile, calendula, skullcap and mugwort. I have a lot of favorite plants.”

To learn more about Small Town Farm's offerings, visit smalltownfarm.com

edibleaustin.com 39 38 Spring 2023
FARMERS DIARY
“It’s important to take risks and try new things, knowing not everything we do will be successful, but even the things that fail are valuable lessons"
Left Page Top: Garden by Cristen Andrews Left Page Middle: Guerra's skate ramp by Ashley Brown Left Page Bottom: Photo by Cristen Andrews Right Page Left: Photo by Ashley Brown Right Page Top: Tiny house photo by Cristen Andrews Right Page Bottom: Photo by Cristen Andrews Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country's natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.

Get fresh updates on our work to ensure the future of agriculture includes all Americans. farmland.org

Discrimination against marginalized groups in agriculture negatively affects all Americans by limiting the opportunities for farmers, workers, and consumers.

AFT is raising up diverse voices in agriculture, because we believe diversity contributes to a more resilient agricultural system, a stronger economy, and a more equitable society.

At American Farmland Trust, we believe agriculture is strengthened through diversity.

We fly more than 100 varieties of shellfish and whole fresh fish in from all over the world. Plus our fishmongers are happy to make suggestions, share their expert cooking tips, and cut your fish to order. From quick-cooking favorites like littleneck clams to our jumbo lobster tails, we’ve got a seafood feast waiting for you!

4001 N. LAMAR | 512-206-1000

4477 S. LAMAR | 512-899-4300

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