Edge 2012 - Issue 3

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September 2012

KAZAKHSTAN September 2012

NO. 07

Kazakh Athletes Reach New Olympic Heights GAME, SET MATCH edgekz.com

Kazakhstan FALLS IN LOVE WITH TENNIS

Staying Awhile

Expats Build Lives in Kazakhstan

Beyond the Steppe

Kazakhstan’s Canyons, Lakes and Forests

Kazakhstan and the EU

Bridging East and West

What’s Hot in KZ:

Nightclubs, Bars, Restaurants, Arts & Culture and Much More edgekz.com




WWW.EDGEKZ.COM Kazakhstan SEPTEMBER 2012 | No. 7

Published by the International Information Committee, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Kazakhstan Editor-in-Chief Patrick Gilsenan

Contents FEATURES

Guest Editor-at-Large Roman Vassilenko

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Contributing Writers Colin Berlyne Michael Jacobsen Alex Lee Alex Walters Michelle Witte

Flying High Freestyle Motocross Comes to the Capital

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The Little Queen Kazakh Girl Makes Chess History

Contributing Photographers Marat Abilov Igor Logvin

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Love - 40 Kazakhstan’s Affair With Tennis

Research and Production Dionis Chinivizov

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A Man and His Eagles A Steppe Tradition Continues

Art Director Alain Blunt

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A Smokin’ Good Time The Sweet Smell of Hookah

Design by Addnoise Dimitra Darlioti Evdokia Stivaktaki

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Striking Gold Kazakh Athletes Set Records in London

Consultants Jennifer Grinnell Paula Mahoney

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Thanks for assistance and photography Ministry of Foreign Affairs Astana City Administration

Modern Day Batyrs Ancient Kazakh Martial Art Survives

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Paying to Sit A Local’s Take on a Nightlife Custom

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Fashion Designs of Aida Kaumenova

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Model Diana Fedorenko

For additional information info@edgekz.com © 2012 EdgeKz. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

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Sections 6

DESTINATION:

More than Steppe Hiking Kazakhstan’s Forests and Canyons

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CULTURE:

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PROFILE:

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Politics:

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Staying Awhile Expats Make Lives in Kazakhstan Yerbolat Tolepbay Artist Explores Man’s Place in Society Kazakhstan and Europe Strong Ties Narrow East West Divide BUSINESS:

Sowing Seeds Kazakhstan’s Growing Agricultural Sector

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ASTana Index

66

Restaurants

72

Cafés

77

Bars

82

Nightclubs

87

Arts & Culture

91

Fitness & Banya

94

Hotels

97

Shopping

Almaty Index

100

Listings

USEFUL INFORMATION

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Kazakhstan

110

Astana

114

Almaty

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Astana Map

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destination

Burabai view in fall

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More than Just Steppe Hiking Kazakhstan’s Nature Areas Text by Alex Lee

Kazakhstan is one of the largest

countries in the world and has an abundance of beautiful nature areas that you don’t have to be an extreme sports advocate to enjoy. There are rolling hills, picturesque canyons and a plethora of lakes that are easily accessible from major cities that require little more athleticism than a walk in the woods. So over the next few pages, we’ll look at some of the most beautiful hikes visitors and locals can take to get a sense of the country’s natural beauty.

Burabai Some of the country’s most beautiful and easily accessible hiking can be found in the Burabai area. Burabai is the name of a village and recreation area about two and a half hours’ drive outside of the capital city Astana. It is likely your best bet for going on a nature hike as it is not only one of the country’s most beautiful areas but also offers an abundance of hotels and resorts. The Burabai area is referred to as the “Pearl of Kazakhstan” and is rich with lakes, forests and hundreds of animal species. Thousands of tourists come for the region’s fresh air, lake swims, boat tours and to hike its wooded trails and semi-mountainous terrain. In fact, Burabai’s pine and birch trees are believed to have medicinal properties that can help cure a host of ail-

ments. But even if you’re not in need of healing, Burabai is a great place to get out in nature and get the blood pumping.

Hiking Burabai As you drive through the main road of Burabai village, you’ll come to a gate, which begins the Burabai “Kurortnaya” or resort area. It is there that you will pay $1.5 and enter the official Burabai recreation area. There are many trails throughout the area that are moderate and don’t require a guide. And they’re all located just off the park’s main road. Once you arrive in the recreation area, you can ditch your car and walk up the main road to see most of the park’s natural wonders within eight kilometres. You can also rent a bike or hire a taxi driver at many of the area’s hotels to show you the sights. But you’ll want to bring a Russian dictionary or a Russian speaking friend as few taxi drivers speak English. Most locals vacationing there can also tell you where to go and what to see. Once inside the recreation area, as you follow the main road, you’ll see a few beaches beside Burabai Lake where you can stop for a swim or to rest in the shade. About 3.5 kilometers into the recreation area is a beach where you can rent boats and view the unique rock formation about 300 meters offshore known as Zhumbaktas (Riddle Rock). You can also use the

boats to reach the rock and climb around for a while. Immediately, across the road from where you rent the boats, you’ll find the trailhead for Okzhetpes Mountain. It’s a quick climb to the top where you’ll find the location from which most of the picturesque photos of Burabai are taken. After taking your keepsake pictures, continue along the main road and you’ll come to a beach on a second lake, Chebachie Lake. Chebachie Lake is incredibly picturesque and puts to rest the myth that Kazakhstan is just empty steppe. The lake offers numerous easy-to-follow trails around its parameter that offer longrange views of the shimmering water and the pine woods-filled mountains that surround it. Keep an eye out for official lookout points along the trails that offer the best views. After checking out the lake, head back to the main road where you’ll continue for another 5 km before coming to the Abylai Khan Valley, and its revered rock outcrop where the 18th Century ruler Abylai Khan is believed to have pondered the politics of the day. It is rumored that if you walk around the rock seven times and make a wish, that wish will come true. And, if you are really athletic and adventurous, you can continue to Kokshetau Mountain, which is the tallest mountain in the region. You don’t want to climb Kokshetau alone, so see our sidebar story on hiking Kokshetau Mountain.

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Climbing Kokshetau Mountain Burabai’s Kokshetau Mountain is 947 meters above sea level and the tallest mountain in the region. As such, it provides some of the best views of Burabai and the surrounding area. But it’s also a challenging climb and shouldn’t be tried alone. Guides can be arranged through most hotels and usually charge around $4 to lead you up the mountain. You’ll need to be in shape. The climb is challenging and, at times, gets extreme with no clear trail. The hike up the mountain takes about two hours and the hike down roughly half that time. Be sure to bring some water and snacks as there are none along the trail. But you’ll be rewarded along the way with sights of unique rock outcroppings, steep slopes, and if you are lucky, a little wildlife. Once on top of Kokshetau Mountain, the view opens up and you can see the entire region, including Burabai Lake, Shchuchye Lake, the Okzhetpes Mountain, Zhumbaktas Rock,

the Abylai Khan Valley, and Chebachie lake. So if you’re feeling adventurous and want to see the best of what Burabai has to offer, hire a guide, bring some hiking boots and head up Kokshetau Mountain.

Spend the Weekend Burabai is one of Kazakhstan’s most well developed resort areas and you’ll have no shortage of hotels and resorts to choose from in the recreation area. Prices range from below $50 for a basic room up to a few hundred dollars for a luxury suite with a lake view and balcony. Visit www. burabai.net for a list of hotel options.

Abylai Khan Monument in Burabai

Zhumbaktas (Riddle Rock) at Burabai Lake

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Hiking Bayanaul Another great place to get out in nature just a few hours’ drive from Astana is the Bayanaul National Park. Bayanaul National Park is located in the small village of Bayanaul about 340 km east of the capital and is a picture-perfect collection of shimmering lakes, natural springs, forest-filled mountains and unique caves. The best way to hike Bayanaul park is with a hiking guide, which you can arrange by contacting tour companies, such as Silk Road Adventures at 8 (7182) 622 691 / www. silkroadadventures.net or 5 Zvezd (5 Star) Travel at turkomp_5zvezd@mail.ru. Most guided hikes of the park begin at the Zhayau Musa Monument near Zhasybai Lake. The monument is a statue of the Kazakh poet and composer of the same name who lived at the turn of the 20th century. In short order, you will be in the heart of nature and a sometimes

tricky hike. “As you go along, watch for the moving unstable rocks, don’t step on those to avoid rockfalls, and hold the branches so they don’t hit the person following you behind,” local guide Marina Karimova advised EdgeKz. Karimova, 39, has been working as a guide in Bayanaul for 20 years. The tour also takes you along fire roads cut into the forest from which you can see black alder woods, which are among Kazakhstan’s protected tree species. As you hike upward, you’ll follow clear streams which will make you think you’ve discovered gold as their creek beds sparkle with yellow. But, it’s not gold. It’s just the beautiful – but not overly valuable – cooper pyrites mineral, which is common to the area. The streams’ waters, however, are considered extremely healthy and many bring empty bottles to fill and take home. As you hike, you’ll also see the “Witches Gorge” which includes unique overhanging rocks. As you near the top of your hike, you’ll come through the black alder woods to a meadow from which you can scramble up a final climb for a view of Akbet Mountain. Akbet is the tallest peak in the Bayanaul National Park at 1026 meters. The hike then descends back down along a trail via the Echo Valley from which you can glimpse the tops of the black alder forests. The hike takes about 1.5 hours and is 3.5 km in total.


While in Bayanaul National Park, you’ll also want to explore Aulietas Cave, which is believed to hold sacred rocks. “Autlietas” means “Sacred Rock” in Kazakh and legend has it that if you make a wish, touch the cave’s rocks and walk away without looking back, the wish will come true. And those in great shape can ask their guide to lead them up the 3.5-hour climb to the top of Akbet Mountain. The climb is very challenging but from the top you can see the region’s three main lakes: Zhasybai, Sabyndy Kol, and Lake Toraigyr where the famous Kazakh poet Toraigyrov was buried. You can also see the three unique

Charyn Canyon

Bayanaul

rock outcroppings of Saimantas, Naizatas and Kempirtas.

Sleeping in Bayanaul Bayanaul’s tourist infrastructure is not nearly as developed as Burabai’s. In fact, ten years ago you would have been able to find little more than basic huts to stay in. But Bayanaul’s popularity and tourist infrastructure has developed as more

and more Astana residents seek out new nature holidays. Today, you can rent a nice modern cottage for about $10 to $45 per night. Higher-end accommodations, such as the Sultan Cottages (+7 (7812) 56 69 14, +7 (7812) 33 63 61) range from $135 to $150 for suites with basic amenities. You can also bring a tent or arrange with your guide to rent a tent and sleep in the nature area for about $10 per night.

Experiencing the Charyn Canyon And for a complete change of pace from the rich forests of Burabai and Bayanaul, and for those staying in Kazakhstan’s financial center Almaty, a unique nature experience can be found by hiking the trails of Charyn Canyon. Charyn Canyon is located 200 kilometres southeast of Almaty, and is often considered Kazakhstan’s version of the United States’ Grand Canyon. The canyon is part of the Charyn National Park and stretches for roughly 154 kilometres along the Charyn River, for which it is named, and reaches a depth of 150 to 300 metres. In addition to its stunning rock walls which change color with the movement of the sun, you’ll also want to check out a small area of the canyon known locally as the “Valley of Castles”. The area received that name because many of its rock formations look like miniature castles or fortresses. And about 15 kilometres into the canyon is the Sogdian Ash Tree Grove. Sogdian ash trees are unique in that they only grow near rivers and have very strong immune systems. Scientists believe this group of trees has been around since the last ice age. Hiking in the canyon is allowed and the terrain is not difficult to navigate. But you don’t want to hike without a guide as it’s easy to get lost in the canyon’s many small valleys. Guides can be found in Almaty and contact information is provided at the end of this story. Usually hikers wind their way down the canyon to the river, roam around a bit and hike back out in one day. The canyon is also extremely hot in the summer and cold in the winter and there’ no tourist infrastructure immediately available. So you want to dress

appropriately and bring everything you’ll need. Hiking the canyon is most recommended in the fall or spring.

To charyn and Back

The canyon doesn’t offer any hotels and guides recommend you don’t spend the night camping in this wild, deserted area. The best way to see the canyon is to hire a guide out of Almaty and complete the hike and the return trip in a single 13-15 hour day. Numerous tour companies, such as Asia Travel (www.asiatravel.com) and AdvanTour (www.advantour.com) can make all the arrangements. For those who want to travel in luxury, you can also helicopter your way to the canyon. For more information on helicopter tours, contact DIMAL Kazakhstan Travel Agency at +7 (705) 167 91 94 or +7 (727) 327 46 24.

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g n H i g y i l F H

s le s y o t r o al s e c n e o s t pit obse t e r F o M a el Jac M o e c icha c H yM t ex T b T

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Strolling through Astana’s streets, you’d expect to see great architecture, a mix of cultures and lots of women in very high-heeled shoes. What you wouldn’t expect to see are motorcycles soaring through the air topped by the world’s best freestyle motocross riders.

Elite Freestyle Motocross Riders Kirill Gavrilov, left, and Nick Franklin

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F BB

ut that’s exactly what happened this summer when four of the planet’s most accomplished stunt riders converged on a square in the nation’s capital for the Red Bull X-Fighters Jam 2012. Freestyle motocross is a modern take on the old sport of motocross and motorcycle jumping. Freestyle motocross riders compete by completing two routines in which they try to impress judges with the highest, most difficult and most innovative tricks. But this is definitely not old-school riding. Today’s maneuverable bikes allow riders to regularly jump 60 feet or more, do backflips and soar multiple stories above the ground. And the Red Bull X-Fighters series is among the sport’s most prestigious events. For this year’s event in Astana, New Zealand Rider Nick Franklin, Russian riders Alexey Kolesnikov and Alexei Aisin, as

Freestyle motocross is a modern take on the old sport of motocross and motocycle jumping well as Kyrgyz champion Kirill Gavrilov showed up to show off their skills. A temporary freestyle motocross venue was built in the main square of Astana’s old town section and the city turned out to watch. In addition to the motocross event, which was staged in four heats, the crowd was also entertained between heats by acrobats and traditional Kazakh games and skills performed by the equestrian team Nomad. The motocross riders performed such tricks as the “Superman”, in which they

rise completely out of their seats and lay horizontal to their motorcycles while flying through the air, and the “Dead Man”, in which riders lie on the seat of the motorcycle and straighten their legs over their handlebars at 40 km per hour. Another of the event’s more difficult tricks was a stunt called the “climber” which requires riders to completely separate themselves from their motorcycles in mid-air and control their flight with only their toes touching the handlebars. This is not the first time the world’s elite freestyle motocross riders have converged on Kazakhstan. A similar event was held in 2008 in Almaty, and Almaty also hosted the riders in a similar display this year. After the Astana event, rider Nick Franklin said he was pleased with the energy of the spectators and the vibe of the capital.

The Riders

Nick Franklin New Zealand Age: 25

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Alexey Kolesnikov Russia Age: 25

Alexei Aisin Russia Age: 25

Kirill Gavrilov Kyrgyztan Age: 25


culture

Staying Awhile Expat Life in Kazakhstan Text by alex lee

Finding unique, largely undis-

covered places to live in this wired, global world isn’t easy. But Kazakhstan – despite being the world’s ninth largest country by landmass – remains one of those places. Relatively few in the West, and even many in the Central Asian region, have a real

idea what life is like – particularly for expats – in this multi-ethnic, former Soviet Republic. But that is changing as Kazakhstan continues to rise, particularly on the global economic stage. Kazakhstan is one of the world’s emerging suppliers of both

oil and natural gas. The largest oil find in the world in the last 40 years was in Kazakhstan and it is a top 20 gas supplier. The country has also become the world’s swing uranium supplier and is now a key producer of rare earth metals – the elements necessary to manufacture high

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tech goods. It’s also been rising on most international economic indexes and is the most stable country in Central Asia. In other words, there’s lots of business and lots of deals being made in Kazakhstan

that are attracting multi-national companies and forward-thinking business people from around the globe. And while most come to Kazakhstan for a short time to scope out opportunities or close a deal and then fly back to their home countries, others have found this unique county with its mix of Asian, Russian, and Western influences and its young and changing culture to be a place they want to settle. The foreign profes-

sionals who have come now have the opportunity to experience the beauty of this country and its cultures, and to share their professional expertise with locals. The reciprocal exchange of skills and knowledge is helping both sides grow and develop. So EdgeKz spoke to a few of the expats who have not only come for Kazakhstan’s opportunities, but decided to stay for its lifestyle.

What to Wear and Say in Kazakhstan

other Expat Resources Expat in Kazakhstan Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/groups/expatskz Email for advice or contacts at expatskz@ groups.facebook.com. Expat Women’s Club in Almaty: www.AlmatyClub.org Company Offering Expat Relocation Services: Globalink: www.globalinkllc.com The company is based out of Almaty, the staff speaks a multitude of languages and they offer a range of services from transportation to getting settled in your new city.

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Kazakhstan is a massive country. Its vast steppes unfurl from the Caspian Sea all the way to Chinese border. As a result, its climate can vary greatly from region to region. Aktau and Atyrau in the west are mild year round, although they can get pretty hot in the summer. Southern cities such as Almaty, Taraz and Shymkent are blazing hot in the summer. And if you are going to live in the east or the north where the capital Astana is located, you better bring some winter gloves. Astana has the honor of being the world’s second coldest capital and the country’s coldest city. Only Ulaan Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s capital is colder. Astana’s winter temperatures have dropped as low as -51C and the city is covered in a cold – but lovely – permafrost for nearly half the year. The language issue can also be confusing for newly relocated expats. It’s not easy to figure out if Kazakhstan is officially a Kazakh or Russian speaking country. The short answer is that Kazakhstan’s official language is Kazakh. However, Russian remains the primary language of business and most of the population grew up under Soviet rule and continues to speak Russian. So though Kazakh is the official language and its use is growing exponentially, the gov government does not discourage the use of Russian, and as a practical matter, Kazakhstan remains a dual language culture. The use of each language, however, does vary somewhat by region. Most of the northern regions are Russian-speaking while the southern and western cities speak mostly Kazakh.


Anastasia Semenchukova Age: 30 Birthplace: Born in Kazakhstan, raised in Russia Profession: Director, AltynMerei, employment agency for persons with disabilities Kazakh Residence: Astana Anastasia Semenchukova grew up in Vladivostok, Russia and travelled the world after finishing high school. She graduated from university in China, where she learned to speak Mandarin, and then set off on numerous trips around Europe. Though she was born on Kazakh soil and had seen much of the world by her early 20s, she first became familiar with Kazakhstan because her many flights to and from Vladivostok were through Astana. And, she says, she began to feel comfortable here. So in her mid-twenties, Semenchukova decided to move to Kazakhstan because she felt there were career opportunities in the young country. In the years since, the 30-year-old has built a rich social and professional life and has risen to become director of the AltynMerei agency, which helps find employment for people with disabilities. “It is easier to advance here, career-wise… I love the opportunities and possibilities that Kazakhstan offers for people like me, young professionals,” she said. Semenchukova adds that the openness of the Kazakh people was also one of the first things she noticed. “People’s hos-

pitality in Kazakhstan shocked me at first. I would reach the point when I felt like I needed to go home, to not be a hassle for (party) hosts, but then they would ask me to stay longer and offer more food,” she told EdgeKz. On the down side, Semenchukova misses the sea breezes that came with living in her home town of Vladivostok, Russia. And though she has grown used to winters in Astana, she says it still gets very cold and windy. Semenchukova is also not a big meat eater, so she is still getting accustomed to the Kazakh diet. “Meat is everywhere here. Where I come from, sometimes a salad would do for lunch. But here it has to be a full meal with meat,” she said. But neither the winter winds nor meatheavy dinners are enough to want to make her leave her adopted home. Semenchukova has applied for permanent residency and says she plans to stay. “I love helping people and it’s great to see how helpful people are here to me as well. This makes my heart beat louder. We go out and socialize, have fun, we bond, and this bond and interaction between people is beautiful. If every country in the world would adopt the same mentality, then we would live in a very accommodating world,” she told EdgeKz.

Expat Resources One of the best places to find expats in Kazakhstan is at local bars that cater to a Western clientele. Here are a few joints where you’ll likely be able to have a pint and a chat in your own language: The Shakespeare Pub 40 Dostyk Avenue, Almaty +7(727) 291 94 22 GQ 248 Dostyk Avenue, Almaty +7(727) 387 04 03 MarroneRosso 149 Furmanov Street, Almaty +7(727) 261 39 54 Café Star 13 Dostyk Street, Astana +7(7172) 79 54 12 Café Rafe 14 Tauelsyzdyk Street, Astana +7(7172) 24 49 00

Café Rafe

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Tim Herbert-Khagay Age: 23 Birthplace: United Kingdom Profession: Photographer and Designer Kazakh residence: Almaty British born Tim Herbert-Khagay has always enjoyed exploring new countries and cultures. So it’s no surprise that he was attracted to his now wife Alina when she was a Kazakh exchange student studying in England. And it’s no surprise that af after they fell in love and married, HerbertKhagay agreed to move with Alina back to Almaty, her Kazakh hometown. That was two years ago and today they have made a life here and run an Almaty-based photography studio. When asked about major challenges he’s encountered in Kazakhstan, Herbert-Khagay says “the hardest [part of

Kazakh Acclimatization Moving to another country can be challenging, no matter where you come from or where you’re going. Language barriers, unfamiliar weather patterns, strange new food, and culture shock are part of the process. Kazakhstan is no different. There’s a honeymoon period after you arrive when day-to-day challenges such as calculating Euroto-Tenge conversions and bagging your own groceries in the market are charming. Then there is the reality-sets-in period in which you realize a good burger is hard to find, Russian is a little more difficult to learn than you anticipated and you don’t actually like Karaoke – a key part of any night out in Kazakhstan. The final stage takes a long time to reach, but according to expats here, is worth it. It is when you come to appreciate the vast open spaces, the family-friendly culture, the mixed religions and ethnicities and the vibe of a culture, society and government that are just getting started. You stop looking for expats to socialize with and start settling into what the country has to offer. With so many influences – East, West, North and South – and so many cultures and religions mixing in one place, most who stay in Kazakhstan say that eventually, in the mix of it all, they find their unique place and the country begins to feel like home.

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adjusting] is the big cultural divide between the East and the West.” Though the country is becoming more European and cosmopolitan, Kazakhstan remains a Eurasian nation at heart, says HerbertKhagay. And Herbert-Khagay is still getting used to the food. The horse meat, lamb and mutton diet can be a bit heavy to outsiders, says Herbert-Khagay, and it can be a bit difficult to find a vegetarian menu at restaurants. But, he says, he feels that the experience of living and adjusting to Kazakhstan has prepared him to live anywhere in the world. He has also been pleasantly surprised to find plenty of vegetarian options at local bazaars, where shoppers can find stalls offering tofu, green vegetables and beans. He has also been able to establish a successful design and photography studio in Almaty and says as Almaty continues to grow, so has his business.


A bit of advice… The biggest mistake expats make in Kazakhstan is separating themselves from the locals. Kazakhs are a proud people with a proud history. As a result, Kazakhs don’t harbor resentment or suspicion against people from the West. Kazakhs, the vast majority of the time, are happy to meet you and glad for an opportunity to try out their skills at any number of Western languages. Often you will be stopped on the street by Kazakhs – particularly young people – who just want to say hello and have a chat. The history of the country, from the many cultures of its ancient steppe to the ethnicities that have found their way here in modern times, is one of tolerance and inclusion. So don’t be afraid to say hello or try out a little Russian. (Or better yet a little Kazakh).

Son Pascal Age: 26 Birthplace: Italy Profession: Musician Kazakh Residence: Almaty Just over one year ago, no one in Kazakhstan had heard the name Son Pascal. The Italian born musician had recently moved here to pursue his music and enjoy the culture. Little did he know he would become a nearly overnight national star. Today, the name Son Pascal is recognized by most Kazakhs after Pascal became famous among locals for performing a comic remake of the famous “Englishman in New York” video – except he was the Englishman, or rather Italian, in Shymkent (one of Kazakhstan’s three major cities). His video clip went viral with more than 50,000 views in just a couple of days on Kaznet. Though the video has convinced people Pascal is a comedian, he actually remains a professional musician and occasionally sings in Kazakh. The 26-yearold says work brought him to Kazakhstan but he stays because he enjoys the country. “I moved to this country because of some work prospects and I love so many things about life here,” he told EdgeKz. Pascal is also a unique expat in that he doesn’t long for his home country’s food. “Besh Forever!” he gushed. Beshbarmak is a national Kazakh dish made of boiled horsemeat, mutton or lamb and large flat noodles. In addition to the food, including Kazy (a horse meat sausage), Pascal says he loves “the ladies in Kazakhstan, the

ski resort Shymbulak; Kazakh honey is amazing as is the Kazakh traditional musical instrument, the dombra.” He has also made a lot of friends and says he enjoys the company of Kazakhs. Among the biggest challenges Pascal has faced living in Kazakhstan is the language. “I’m starting to understand Russian, but the first months were really hard to live and to take care of myself.” But, he adds, “Apart from that, I’m becoming more and more “Almatinian” and I don’t have huge problems moving around the city

and dealing with people.” He also moved to Kazakhstan in the middle of winter, so it’s taken a while for his Italian blood to adjust. “I had to deal with the serious cold, but I got used to it quickly,” he said, adding the only thing he misses about his Italian home is the sea. Pascal says he is not sure if he plans to stay in Kazakhstan for the rest of his life, but is enjoying the country so far. “I don’t know (if I’ll stay forever). Life is so unpredictable. But I like what this country is giving me and I know I can give a lot to this country.”

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profile

Paintings –above: Alone 2009 opposite page: A Lonely Dance in the Steppe

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Yerbolat Tolepbay

Artist Explores Man’s Place in Society Text by Michelle Witte

Much has changed in the home country of internationally renowned

Kazakh artist Yerbolat Tolepbay over the course of his 40-year career. Kazakhstan has gone from an unknown, far off Soviet outpost to an independent nation whose people are now responsible for taking more control over their own lives. So it is no surprise that Tolepbay’s work has dealt so heavily with the human condition and the interplay between man and society. “Our whole life is numerous inconsistencies, and inner conflicts, where expectations and reality don’t make sense,” the 57-year-old Honoured Art Worker of Kazakhstan told EdgeKz when asked what inspires him. “I am interested first of all in the man, and everything that has to do with him: the human feelings, worries, man as a component unit of society and society as many people.” The Almaty-based Tolepbay, who is also a member of the Academies of Art of Russia, the Czech Republic, and Kyrgyzstan has exhibited in 35 countries, including recent showings in Jerusalem and Vienna. To each of those places, he brings a bit of Kazakhstan. “Certainly, a key feature of my work is that it belongs to the national culture,” he said. “But it is not only about Kazakh culture, and not in plot or in terms of content.” Instead, he evokes his culture in images. He evokes the country philosophically and metaphorically, rather than telling its tales. “Thus, the images of the Madonna of the Kazakhs, images of a caravan, the ‘Turikbii’ series – this is the symbolic embodiment of the Kazakh national culture.” His themes, however, are eternal: the realities and complexities of love for a person, a nation or a land.

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Paintings –left: Intricacy - IV. Breakup.2011 top: Three Graces 2009 above: Men’s Dance 2007

This winner of the 2006 Knight of the French Order of Arts and Letters was first inspired by his older brother, painter Tokbolat Toguzbaev. Kazakh artists Ali Dzhusupov and Zhanatay Shardenov have also been inspirations. And the greats, including El Greco, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Marc Chagall, Amedeo Modigliani have informed his work. But Tolepbay tells EdgeKz he always tries to find a unique voice in all of his work. “Before I start working on a painting, I do a lot of sketches inspired by real-life situations. But I do not copy these situations in the work. I avoid detail, plot, mirroring reality. I grind, I add… I have a huge

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desire to create something positive. It is important for me to feel that I was able to improve, become better, to find the right solution.” One of the characteristics for which Tolepbay’s work is most recognized is his use of color. For all the dark times his country went through during the difficult Soviet era and the difficulties of transitioning to a new life, the artist’s palette remains full of bright color; the figures in his paintings are often, if not bathed in light, surrounded by flashes of intense, saturated hues. “Color is the main means of expression in painting just like the word in literature, the sound in music.

It… allows us to express emotion, nature, subtle nuances of an action or an event. It can be tragic, dramatic, tense, or to express peace and harmony.” Among the challenges the artist believes Kazakhstan has faced in its transition to an independent nation over the last 20 years has been that art and the creation of art have become secondary to other concerns in the country. The difficult and subversive conditions present during the Soviet era that often inspired art have been removed. “Before independence, art was being created on a higher artistic level. The art then was quality, but it had elements of orders and requests.


Right: Talk - II. Against.2010 far right: A Steppe Madonna 2011

You can see and feel this in it. Today, fortunately, that sense is absent. But today, there is no interest in art, which there was in Soviet times,” he said. “In the early 1990s, visual art was well developed. There was a huge interest from the public, collectors appeared, galleries were opening; the art market awakened. Unfortunately, over the past five or six years that process has fallen off sharply.” Much of Tolepbay’s recent work has been exhibited under the title “Inconsistencies” or “Discrepancies”. This seems appropriate for a painter who has seen his country achieve independence and artistic freedom, but has also noticed a decline in some aspects of creativity as constraints that used to force a subversive creative spirit have fallen away. Tolepbay sees that capitalism has brought Kazakh-

stan prosperity in the 20 years since independence, but says that that prosperity “is not applicable to the artistic sphere.” Tolepbay is quick to point out, however, that the prosperity his country has experienced does not mean art is dying out or not growing. And, he says, the Western influences it has brought have actually meant more exposure for Kazakh artists. ”We, the artists, are trying to maintain ourselves at an international level. So many young artists exhibit their works in cooperation with Western galleries.” And, he adds, Kazakh art remains unique and the future of Kazakhstan’s artistic community and spirit lies in the hands of Kazakhs. “We cannot adapt the Western theories to our local soil. As the new cities are built, so should new art be built. Then we can sustain it at the inter-

national level,” he said. He also calls on the government to help revive the country’s interest in art. “It is necessary to change policy in the sphere of art – art and literature – the state needs to do that… I call on the leadership to change attitudes about art,” he said. “The desire and the historical basis are both already in place… In Kazakhstan, arts and crafts have deep roots.” In the end, however, Tolepbay says art is above political change. “The word ‘independence’ for me personally is expansive and abstract. A person is independent when he obtains a stable base, reliability, and multi-faceted connections,” he said. “In my work, I try to understand the nature of the relationships between individuals, get inside the complicated world of the human soul.”

A Renowned Career Before he even graduated from the art and graphic design program at Abay State University in Almaty in 1977, Yerbolat Tolepbay was exhibiting his work. Currently, his work is displayed in the State Tretyakov Gallery in Moscow, the Kasteyev State Art Museum of the Kazakhstan Ministry of Culture, and regional museums in Kazakhstan. He has exhibited in 35 countries, most recently in Russia, France, England, Uzbekistan, England, Israel and, this year, Vienna, Austria. Tolepbay’s work, in which one can see a blend of European techniques, Eastern colors, Kazakh imagery, and universal themes, has won him nearly a dozen awards and titles over the years. Among these are the State Prize of Kazakhstan, the Merenti Medal for Artistic Contribution to Kazakhstan, the highest award of the EUROUNION, the bronze medal at the World Biennale of Artists in 1998, and a Knighthood from the French Order of Arts and Letters, among others.

Artist Yerbolat Tolepbay

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The

Kazakh Girl Makes Chess History

little

Text by Alex Lee

Chess Prodigy Zhansaya Abdumalik

Queen The ancient game of chess has traveled a bumpy road over the last few centuries. It has been beset by scandals, infected with politics and disrupted by the Cold War. It saw psychological warfare, the splitting of the international chess federation and, for the first time, humans challenging machines to prove that the human brain is still mightier than its creations. But throughout this turmoil, chess has remained a game of great significance in this part of the world. Out of 15 undisputed world champions, nine have been Russians or from former Soviet states. And since Kazakhstan is a former

Soviet state, it inherited a strong chess culture and has since become one of the game’s powerhouse nations. And now, a native Kazakh chess player – only 12 years old – is making world chess history. Her name is Zhansaya Abdumalik and the World Chess Federation is considering naming her the world’s youngest chess grandmaster in history. Zhansaya is a shy, modest and polite girl. One would never guess that this young girl is considered one of the fiercest chess players in the world. “When she [Zhansaya] enters the room, everyone is intimidated by her and the only thing that everyone thinks about is how to beat her – not to win the gold or increase their rating points – but how to beat Zhansaya!” her mother Alma Ashirova told EdgeKz.

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Zhansaya Abdumalik and her family are thankful to their supporters and fans around the world, particularly Alliance Bank, Anuar Nurpeisov, Kazakh British Technical University and Mr. Iskander Beisimbetov, Asset Magauov and Mr. Sun’ Sinyun’ of MangistauMunaiGas, KazTransGas, Ignatius Leong of the Singapore Chess Federation, her coach Alexander Nikitin, and the government of Kazakhstan.

Chess and International Intrigue The new post-Cold War generation in Central Asia and the United States rarely give a thought to the tensions between the former Soviet Union and the West just a few decades ago. But those tensions once made world news as international politics played out on a chess table in 1972. A chess match called the “Match of the Century” played in Iceland that year pitted the young US prodigy Bobby Fischer against Russian-born Boris Spassky. The match was fraught with tensions, complications and accusations. And to this day, some think the match also involved other competitors: the CIA and the KGB. First, Bobby Fischer complained about playing conditions after losing his first two games. After a few losses of his own,

Fame Came in a Dream The night Zhansaya was born, her father, Daniyar Ashirov, got a phone call from his father. He told Daniyar to name his daughter Zhansaya Abdumalik, giving her the same last name as the grandfather’s first name – Abdumalik – even though the family’s surname is Ashirov. Daniyar argued, bewildered as to why he was being asked to abandon the family’s surname. The grandfather explained that he had had a dream in which a white-dressed man said if he named his granddaughter Zhansaya Abdumalik, she would make his name world famous. Daniyar listened to his father. And for years Daniyar and Zhansay’s mother Alma wondered what Zhansaya would do to make them all famous. It soon became clear. At the age of six, Zhansaya and her older brother began attending a chess school. In just over

Spassky complained about his chair being wired and demanded to have it replaced. Then he complained about being sabotaged by the match being in Iceland. Although playing the match in Iceland had been Spassky’s choice. Fischer had wanted to play in Belgrade, Yugoslavia – modern day Serbia. In the end, after all the tensions and intrigues, Bobby Fischer defeated Boris Spassky and ended the Soviet Union’s long chess world dominance. Fischer then became a chess hero to many and villain to others.

Vs. 1972

Bobby Fischer

Boris Spassky

a year, Zhansaya won her first trophy at a national tournament in January 2007. “Dad, I will win the world tournament in one year,” she said to her father at the time. “I can say that I was always stunned by her character. She is very confident, though she is young. She (once) had to face a European champion and before going to bed the night before, she said, ‘Dad, don’t worry, I will win!’ Everyone was worried! The coach was, we [her parents] were, but she always says – I will win. And she delivers on her promises,” Daniyar told EdgeKz. And Zhansaya delivered on her world championship promise, winning the next year at the game’s major international tournament, toppling opponents from across Europe and Asia.

Even Champions Lose But it hasn’t all been victories on her way to the top. Zhansaya lost in 2008 in Vietnam and it remains her only major competition loss to a weaker opponent. “She gave that one away,” remembered Alma. After the game, Zhansaya went up to her room in tears. She was worried about upsetting her parents. “We came from so far and everyone believed in me. I guess this responsibility made me really nervous and I lost,” Zhansaya explained to EdgeKz. But by then Zhansaya’s skills were becoming well known, and the loss provoked an outpouring of support from her fans. “That day, Alma and I went on the Internet to check email and to our surprise we got so many nice words of support from our relatives and even strangers. Someone had even started a forum in support of our daughter. Absolute strangers believed in her. So I printed the comments and showed them to her. And this inspired her to then win 10 games in a row, and then she won the gold at the world tournament!” Daniyar explained.

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Despite the pressure of being a chess Zhansaya tries to remain an ordinary

prodigy, little girl

“My dad always said, when I play the whole country is watching, and if I make a mistake, the whole country will know. I had to be always focused and play to the best of my ability. And my supporters are important to me, they give me confidence when I play, I don’t want to disappoint them,” said Zhansaya.

A New Iconic Figure Zhansaya hasn’t lost a match since that 2008 defeat in Vietnam. She has now been crowned world champion among her peers four times in a row. She has played tournaments around the globe in Russia, Malaysia, China, Vietnam, India, Indonesia, Greece, Brazil and elsewhere. Her games last longer than most others in tournaments, each average up to five hours, and chess players do not want to cross her path. Often when other players see her name in major tournaments, they change their strategy to go for second place. Zhansaya – who is currently living, training and studying with her mother in Singapore – has the support of 16 million fans in Kazakhstan and more around the globe. A Malaysian family even named their daughter after Zhansaya and asked to take a picture with her. She has also caught the attention of the coach of former world champion Gary Kasparov, Alexander Nikitin. “At first when he found out (about my skills), he was surprised and intrigued. But after playing me, he said, ‘Well done’,” Zhansaya told EdgeKz. And with the help of her sponsors and the government of Kazakhstan, Zhansaya and her family hope to achieve even bigger goals. “Our plan is to make it to the top 100 world rating, where there are no representatives from Kazakhstan. And also to become the world women’s champion,” said Daniyar. Despite the fame and pressure of being a chess prodigy, Zhansaya tries to remain an ordinary little girl. “I’ve made a lot of friends since I became the world champion, but I try to be polite and modest as my parents taught me,” she says. Here and opposite: Chess champion Zhansaya Abdumalik

Man Versus Machine In 1996, as the computer revolution was in full swing, chess again made international news. IBM had built a computer, Deep Blue (IBM RS/6000SP), that it claimed could beat a human chess grandmaster. So a series of matches were set up between the machine and the undisputed world champion at the time, Russian Garry Kasparov. After much international hype and debate about the power of humans versus computers, the two set down to a series of six matches. Ultimately, Kasparov prevailed, winning three of six games, losing one and paying to a draw on two. After defeating the machine, Kasparov said he thought that Deep Blue was a new kind of intelligence that needed just a few more years to beat the human brain. But it didn’t take that long. The very next year a re-match was scheduled with a retooled Deep Blue. Out of these six games, Deep Blue won two, lost only one and drew three. This was the first proof that a computer program could beat the human brain. But Kasparov expressed dissatisfaction that he didn’t have any of Deep Blue’s games to analyse, while Deep Blue had thousands of Kasparov’s games to study. So in 2003, he again played against a machine, Deep Junior. That match ended in a draw and later that same year he faced a new 3D program, X3D Fritz. After the match, he admitted that he felt he had had a considerable advantage against this particular program, though he made a blunder which had cost him the win. Despite the four meetings between man and machine, the debate remains open as to the power of computers to match the creative, enterprise thinking that is – so far – unique to humans. Garry Kasparov is thought to be one of the best chess players in the world to this day. He was an undisputed chess champion for 15 years, and in 1993 formed his own “Professional Chess Association.”

Zhansaya Abdumalik and her family have embarked upon a unique journey, particularly for such a young person. And with just a few losses, it could all disappear and she could lose her world title. But through it all, she remains confident and content. “Don’t worry people, I will win!” remains her refrain.

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Kazakhstan’s Affair with Tennis

LOVE 40 T

Text by Alex Walters

he growth of tennis’ popularity in Kazakhstan and the rise of its best players into the top global ranks have been meteoric. Top players are flocking to the country, everyday Kazakhs are taking up the game and tennis courts are being built around the county. Tennis may not be the first sport associated with Asia and the East, but Kazakhstan is as much West as East and that’s becoming apparent on courts around the country and outside its borders. The game has really started to breakthrough in Kazakhstan over the last five years. Tennis was seldom watched as late as 2007 and no Kazakh team since national independence in 1991 had had significant success in international tournaments. But in the three years following 2007, the sport caught fire. In 2010, Kazakhstan fought its way for the first time in its tennis history into the top rank of the global elite – the Davis Cup World Group. And they did so in convincing fashion crushing Switzerland five matches to none. In that same miraculous year for Kazakh tennis fans, the great, Russian-born Kazakh citizen Yarolsava “Slava” Shvedova burst onto the world scene at age 22 and won back-toback Grand Slam doubles tournaments at Wimbledon in Britain and the U.S. Open at Forest Hills, New York. And in the summer of 2012, Shvedova made Wimbledon history by playing the first

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Whether it’s a public court in Karaganda or a packed stadium at Wimbledon, Kazakh tennis is enjoying a golden age. To take a look at this, EdgeKz interviewed two of Kazakhstan’s most elite professionals, Shvedova and male star Andrey Golubev, to talk about their success and the rise of the sport’s popularity.

Kazakhstan’s “Golden” Player Yaroslava “Slava” Shvedova In less than four years, Yaroslava “Slava” Shvedova has burst on the scene to become Kazakhstan’s outstanding female tennis star. And just this summer, the 24-year-old Russian-born Kazakh citizen made tennis history by playing the first “Golden Set” at Wimbledon in at least 44 years. During Slava’s third round match in June against French Open runner-up Sara Errani, Slava won the first set without losing a single point. ESPN reported that it is the only perfect set in the history of women’s professional tennis and the first perfect set in perfect singles set in at least 44 years. Shvedova won the first set of her match without losing a single point or making a single error in 24 plays. In doing so, Shvedova accomplished the “Golden Set” and achieved a feat that neither Pete Sampras, Bjorn Borg nor Martina Navratilova ever accomplished. The impact of the success of Kazakhstan’s best players on the popularity of the sport among general Kazakhs has also been buoyed by the recent spread of satellite and cable television in Kazakhstan, which has made watching matches and following Kazakh stars easier. Tennis has also traditionally been a sport of Western elite, which may help explain its rising popularity here as the country has enjoyed over the last 20 years a 12-fold, or 1,200 percent rise in their per capita standard of living. And tennis is also a sport that moves easily from indoors to outdoors, which matches well Kazakhstan’s brutal winters and hot summers. It’s also certainly helped that the nation’s popular President Nursultan Nazarbayev is a huge fan and has supported the growth and establishment of facilities around the country. Centers such as Astana’s Daulet Tennis Complex, websites such as tennis.kz and independent coaches and academies are now filled with enthusiastic converts. All of this progress has not happened by accident. The Kazakh Tennis Federation has been hard at work over the last few years encouraging the region’s best players to come and live in the country and adopt Kazakh citizenship. But it has also brought in legendary coaches like Eric Van Harpen, the former coach of the revered Anna Kournikova, to work with the Kazakh national team. “There is an agreement between our tennis federations to help each other out,” Russian Davis and Federation Cup Captain, Shamil Tarpischev told Russian Television in an interview in September 2010. “This has managed to help a lot of (Russian) tennis players, as they have been able to get extra funding from the Kazakh federation which helps them to develop.”

All of this progress has not happened by accident. The Kazakhstan Tennis Federation has been hard at work over the last few years encouraging the region’s best players to come and live in the country and adopt Kazakhstan citizenship

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Pictures: Tennis Star Yaroslava “Slava” Shvedova, top, right and bottom with Vania King of the U.S. together with whom they won two Grand Slam titles

a Grand Slam tournament. “She was impossible to play against. I don’t even feel like I played terribly. She just was hitting winners from every part of the court,” Errani said of Slava after the match, according to ESPN. It was a great moment for Slava, who went on to win the match, and the culmination of a lifetime’s effort. “I started playing tennis just for fun when I was four and a half,” Slava told EdgeKz. “Then when I was eight my dad (who coaches tennis and running) started coaching me. I made up my mind to turn professional when I was only 13. That was when my parents asked me if I wanted to go on playing or do something else. You can guess what my answer was… I’ve had quite a few coaches in my career but my dad still stays involved helping me with my tennis.” She couldn’t have had a better teacher. Her father Vyacheslav was a world class coach and her mother Nurzia had been a world champion athlete herself having won the International Association of Ultra Runners 100 Kilometres World Challenge in 1992. Slava became a Kazakh citizen in 2008 and applauds the surging popularity of the sport in her adopted country. “The Kazakhstan Tennis Federation does really a lot to help the young tennis players, promote tennis by opening new tennis schools all over the country. I think in the near future there is going to be a lot of players from Kazakhstan. There are so many talented guys and girls in the country,” she told EdgeKz. Slava has played for the Kazakh national team since 2008 and is pleased with the success Kazakh players have been enjoying on the international stage. “For me it was a great opportunity to play in the Fed Cup team and to be a top player for the country. I am very proud to play for Kazakhstan and it’s great that we are becoming a recognized tennis country now,” she said. Slava is also being recognized for her own success. She was ranked fourth and fifth in the world in women’s doubles in 2011,

a career high. In 2012, she has kept up the same high standard. In May, she and doubles partner Galina Voskobo reached the final of the Estoril Open in Portugal for the first time by their dramatic defeat of Sania Mirza from India and her partner Anastasia Rodionova from Australia in a hard-fought 6-3 7-6 (6) contest in the women’s doubles semifinals here. And then, of course, Slava made international news for her record setting Wimbledon performance. “I had no idea. I was just playing every point and every game,” ESPN reported Slava as saying after the match. Slava’s schedule now takes her around the world. In just a three month period in 2011, she was in Buenos Aries in Argentina, Shenzhen in China, Melbourne in Australia, Bogota in Columbia and Monterrey and Acapulco in Mexico. And at press time, Slava was schedule to play the Summer Olympics in London. And, she says, her passion for the game continues to grow. “Tennis is my career and I love it,” Slava says. “If you want something really bad, and if you strive for it and believe in it then everything will come true!” she said, adding a note to aspiring young players. “Enjoy the game. After all, it is a game and you’ve got to play games!”

Rising Star Finds Tennis Home in Kazakhstan Andrey Golubev and Kazakhstan were made for each other. The 25-year-old rising tennis star is a global citizen who has found his global country. Golubev emerged onto the international tennis scene in 2010 at the age of 22 when he won eight straight matches, won his first ATP 500 tournament and reached a career high ranking of 33rd in the world on October 4, 2010.

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“It was like a magic week,” Golubev recalled about the week he won the 2010 German Open in Hamburg. “I was playing well and I proved there that I can play well. I just have to find a way to play more consistently and win more consecutive games.” Golubev has played in all of the Grand Slam tournaments starting with the US Open in 2008 and has won three Challenger tournaments. Other career highlights include reaching the final of the St. PePe tersburg Open in Russia in 2008, the same year the Russian-born Kazakh citizen began playing for Kazakhstan. Golubev was born in the Volgograd province of southern Russian before his family moved to Bra, Italy when he was 15. Five years later he moved to Kazakhstan and adopted Kazakh citizencitizen ship. He now styles himself the “Kaz from Bra.” He began playing early, taking lessons at the age of six, and risris ing rapidly through the tennis ranks. “In the beginning, it was just a few practices a week, then it grew into a more serious phase. There was no moment that I thought about a professional career. It all came to me gradually with time. At the beginning, there were small practices, and then as I grew I trained more and added more practices. And the first results showed at local tournaments at first, and then at the regional level, and then even at an international level,” he told EdgeKz. He has been further helped by great Italian coach Massimo Puci, whom Golubev began working

with at the age of 14 and who has stayed with the rising tennis star since his move to Kazakhstan. “He feels like my big brother, and that’s important. He knows me very well on a personal level and that’s key,” he said. Golubev also credits Kazakhstan for ultimately helping him to break through on the international level. “Kazakhstan helped me to broaden my tennis potential,” he told EdgeKz. “This shows in the conditions of the practices for preparation for tournaments, as well as the results. Kazakhstan has great potential for tennis and this is being developed by the Kazakhstan Tennis Federation. These types of efforts are not often encountered anywhere else.” As an international level tennis player and one who has lived in three countries, Golubev is at home in Kazakhstan’s multiethnic, multi-cultural society. And he says he believes Kazakh players will continue to emerge onto the elite professional tennis circuit. “The process (of preparing international-class level players) started recently in our country and I really hope that in the near future tennis will be at its best. And those young players that grow and have all the chances to break through are looking at the way we play. And I hope they take advantage of the resources for growth and will become elite players,” he said. “My advice to young players is simple. Set high goals for yourselves and do everything to achieve them!”

Pictures: Kazakh ATP Tour Player Andrey Golubev

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A Steppe Tradition COntinues Text by Alex Lee

Falconer Abylkak Tarlybayev

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T

he old expression says that a dog is man’s best friend. And that might be true for some. But in Kazakhstan, eagles reign supreme. And one long-time Kazakh resident has dedicated his life to the birds. “To be a falconer (one who hunts with eagles or falcons), you have to accept this lifestyle. Maybe I don’t know a lot about the Internet or how to drive the newest automobiles, or who is the latest boxing champion, but I’ve lived in the steppes and the mountains, and at 10, I had my own little falcons and at 17 my first eagle,” 71-year-old falconer Abylkak Tarlybayev told EdgeKz. Tarlybayev was born in the Tarbagatai Mountains of China, but has lived most of his life in rural Kazakhstan training and hunting with these majestic creatures. Tarlybayev holds a unique place in Kazakh culture as hunting with eagles has been part of the life of the Eurasian steppe for centuries and he is carrying on that tradition. Tarlybayev has had about ten eagles over the course of his life and some have become like family. “Some say they live about 80 years, some say 120 years. Where I used to live, there was a falconer there who had an eagle for 40 years. Of course, over time we bond and they are a part of my family now.” Tarlybayev says

To be a falconer (one who hunts with eagles or falcons), you have to accept this lifestyle

it only takes three to four weeks to train eagles to hunt, but requires lots of patience, as well as meat, liver and chickens to feed and train them with. But over time, a bond forms and eventually the birds see him as their master. “My birds recognize me by my voice. I use specially designed rope to tie up their feet to ensure they don’t fly away from me. But in the winter, I don’t tie them up. They don’t fly away in winter,” he said, adding that his birds hunt mainly in the winter and are used primarily for fox hunting. And though eagles are considered among the fastest and most fierce of the flying predators, Tarlybayev believes the birds are misunderstood. “I know they have a good heart. It is in their eyes,” he said. “I feel their mood every day and every season.”

Eagles: A Symbol of a Nation Birds of prey have been chosen by many countries to grace their flags and other national symbols. Eagles, particularly, are revered for being noble and fearless. In Kazakhstan, the steppe eagle is a key representative of the nation. A flying eagle with its wings spread was chosen to be placed under the 32-rays of the Sun on Kazakhstan’s national flag along with other central images. It was adopted June 4, 1992. The placement of the bird on the flag honors a cultural tradition dating back, according to some histories, to 2000 BC across the vast Asian steppe, including China and Mongolia and as far away as Iraq. Ancient Kazakh khans, or leaders, mastered the skills of falconry, passing the knowledge from generation to generation. And still today in Kazakhstan there are falconry tournaments where those, such as 71-year-old falconer Abylkak Tarlybayev (profiled here), who have dedicated their lives to these animals can show off their skills and passion.

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politics

President Nursultan Nazarbayev, center, flanked by the then Kazakhstan’s Secretary of State and Foreign Minister Kanat Saudabayev, left, and President Dalia Grybauskaite of Lithuania, right, addresses the OSCE Summit in Astana in December 2010

Kazakhstan and Europe Building Ties, Bridging Divides Text by Alex Walters

Over the last 20 years, Kazakh-

stan’s diplomatic and trade ties with the European Union have grown quietly and steadily and have reached a point in the modern era of unprecedented cooperation and benefit for both sides. Economically, socially, and on the vital issues of

energy and security, the bridge between East and West has never been stronger. The enthusiasm of the EU and its member nations for closer ties with Kazakhstan is easy to explain. Europe wants more access to the energy and the investment opportunities in the fastest growing

economy and largest energy reserves in Central Asia. Kazakhstan is also the largest and most interesting bridgehead for Western values in the heart of Eurasia. It provides a tolerant and cosmopolitan society that stands as an example for the future of the region.

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Top: Kazakh Prime Minister Karim Massimov, below: Minister of Foreign Affairs Yerzhan Kazykhanov with EU High Representative for Foreign Affairs Baroness Catherine Ashton

The growing energy relationship between Europe and Kazakhstan can be seen in the success enjoyed by major European energy corporations, such as Total of France, EniSpA of Italy, Royal Dutch Shell of The Netherlands (and Britain) and BG of Britain in developing, in close cooperation with the Kazakh government and state energy companies, Kazakhstan’s oil and gas fields. Western Europe also remains eager to import as much of the natural gas riches of the Caspian Basin as it can. Kazakhstan, ever so eager to diversify export routes for its huge hydrocarbon

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resources, also shares a European desire to complete the massive and game-changing Nabucco gas pipeline across Azerbaijan, former Soviet Georgia and Turkey to the Mediterranean, provided it is economically feasible for Kazakhstan-based companies to export via that pipeline. The Nabucco pipeline is an international project that would ensure direct transport of Central Asian natural gas to Europe while bypassing Russia’s traditional monopoly on such exports. European hunger for Caspian Basin energy is expected to increase significantly in the coming

decades, and EU leaders want to diversify import routes beyond Russian control. Kazakhstan, as the world’s leading uranium producer and exporter, also has a natural relationship with France, which is the Western world’s leading generator of nuclear energy from pressurized water reactors. Its reactors produce 80 percent of France’s total annual generating output. Other areas of mutual economic benefit between the regions include Kazakhstan’s aggressive industrialization development programme, which has created an enormous market for European steel, engineering products, expertise and industrial technologies. France and Germany are Kazakhstan’s biggest trading partners in Europe but trade and hightech industrial ties are flourishing with countries across the continent. In addition, German and French companies have signed far-reaching exploration, mining and production agreements with their Kazakh counterparts to seek supplies of the 17 elements known as rare earths that are essential for the manufacture of many high-tech devices. The EU and its leading nations have also consistently supported Kazakhstan’s process of joining the World Trade Organization. These economic agreements and relationships are likely to solidify stable ties between Europe and Kazakhstan for decades to come. Strong economic and cultural relations with Western Europe, especially its leading Western nations of Germany, France, Britain, Spain and Italy, also offer particular advantages to Kazakhstan that relations with other developed nations do not. They offer all the advantages of superpower support without the complications that come with Russian, American and Chinese relationships. European nations are also particularly attractive partners because they focus on economic relations and “soft” cultural and diplomatic ties. They do not, for example, seek military bases. There are fewer historical security issues that come with strong European ties. European cultural and even political influences are also less overwhelming than American ones are often per-


ceived to be. Kazakhstan is committed, as President Nursultan Nazarbayev, Prime Minister Karim Massimov and Foreign Minister Yerzhan Kazykhanov repeatedly emphasize, to a multi-vector diplomatic and investment strategy. Maintaining and expanding ties with Europe are essential parts of that strategy. Recent Kazakh diplomatic successes have also played roles in increasing the nation’s influence in Brussels and other European capitals. Kazakhstan currently chairs the 57-nation Organization for Is-

lamic Cooperation and has been using its year of leadership as an opportunity to build cross-culture ties between the nations of the Muslim and Christian worlds. In 2010, Kazakhstan also had a successful year chairing the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe, culminating in an historic OSCE summit in Astana in December 2010 that reinvigorated the venerable body. And this year, the globally significant decision was taken to locate the new international low enriched uranium bank under the IAEA auspices

in Kazakhstan. This is going to be a crucial institution which will help reduce the threat of the unauthorized proliferation of nuclear materials around the world, a danger that has long been a strategic priority for the Europeans as well as for Kazakhstan. With so many of the same values and visions as its European partners, while also bringing to the relationship access to and a cultural understanding of the rising East, Kazakhstan is well positioned for continued strong relationships with Europe for years to come.

Central Asia and the EU Expanding Dialogue and Cooperation Veteran German diplomat Patricia Flor has devoted her life to building ties between the European Union and Central Asia. Her recent appointment as the European Union’s Special Representative for Central Asia, which became effective in July, opens a new era of bridge-building and communication between these two regions. Flor’s appointment comes on the heels of a just concluded European Union and Central Asian five-year strategy from 2007 to 2012 to build stronger diplomatic, security and economic ties. She told a press conference in Brussels in July that her mission is not to question those ties, but to strengthen them and extend the partnership between the EU and the former Soviet republics east of the Caspian Sea. “My task is to build on this basis and further develop our relations in all fields – be they the rule of law, water and environment, economic and security issues,” said the former German special envoy for Eastern Europe, Caucasus and Central Asia. “My mission is to deepen the European Union-Central Asia relationship.” Flor said she also wants a higher level security dialog between the European Union and Central Asian states. This will include bilateral discussions to focus on Afghanistan’s future after NATO forces fully withdraw in 2014. This message is likely to be appreciated in Astana as President Nursultan Nazarbayev has repeatedly voiced concern that post-conflict issues in Afghanistan must not be neglected to ensure a peaceful resolution of remaining issues there. That’s a perspective shared by many EU states. Helping to resolve outstanding conflicts between Central Asian nations and encouraging them to develop a coordinated regional perspective are also high on Flor’s agenda. “All of the region comes into focus and if we want to have positive development in the region, and security and stability, both the Central Asian states and Afghanistan need to work in a regional approach in order to reach a positive outcome,” said Flor.

That regional cooperation message will be welcomed in Astana where the government has achieved increasingly close ties with its neighbors, in particular, Kyrgyzstan and Turkmenistan. Flor also touched on the EU’s desire to continue to be an energy partner to the region, which matches well Kazakhstan’s commitment to developing renewable energy alongside its oil, natural gas and uranium reserves. The EU “comes in and can be good and reliable partners” on energy efficiency and renewable energy, she said. The nations of the European Union also recognize the need to patiently develop the institutions of democracy and the rule of law across Central Asia. And Flor emphasized their continuing commitment to helping Kazakhstan and its neighbors further along this path. “Certainly, we can share the experience of the European Union in terms of the rule of law, in terms of regional cooperation and building an open society,” she said. All of these goals are expected to be addressed at an EU-Central Asia ministers meeting in the fall, she said. Kazakh President Nursultan Nazarbayev with German Chancellor Angela Merkel

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Kazakh President Nursultan Nazarbayev with European Commission President Jose Manuel Barroso

Diverse Cultures Share a Commitment to Peace The ties between Europe and Kazakhstan stemming from economic relationships are easy to understand given Kazakhstan’s vast natural and energy resources and rapid economic expansion. However, Kazakhstan also offers a unique bridge to Asian and Central Asian cultures and an example of divergent cultures living in harmony. Kazakhstan is the most Westernized and culturally diverse of the five nations of Central Asia. It is also the most open society in the region with thousands of its people, especially students, travelling to and studying in Western Europe and elsewhere each year. And, only 20 years after proclaiming national independence from the Soviet Union, its traditional cultural elements, including music, film and history have begun to be more understood in the West. But Kazakhstan and Europe also share a diversity of cultures and a desire for those ethnicities and religions to live in tolerance and harmony. Kazakhstan’s achievement of developing a tolerant multi-religious and multi-ethnic society of about 80 percent of Muslims and 20 percent of Christians among its 16 million people holds lessons for the nations of Western Europe. “Studies of the Kazakh model of interethnic tolerance and social cohesion have been translated into 56 languages and distributed in all (Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe) OSCE countries. The book, Kazakhstan: An Integrated System of Unity and Harmony, has been published in many European languages and the issues of tolerance and public cohesion are widely discussed at international venues,” said Yeraly Tugzhanov, the deputy chairman and head of the Secretariat of the Assembly of the People of Kazakhstan (APK). “Kazakhstan’s model of interethnic tolerance and social cohesion has been presented before the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe in Vi-

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enna, the United Nations at its headquarters in New York and has been praised by foreign experts… Amid pessimistic predictions of a feared ‘clash of civilizations’, Kazakhstan presents the world with an example of organic cultural unity and dialogue.” Kazakhstan is also working to share its culture with the West on a more individual basis. Kazakh President Nursultan Nazarbayev said in May that Kazakhstan was going to set up a new visa-free system for tourists from all countries in the 34-nation Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development. This will cover most of the nations of the EU and all the major Western European states. The move is expected to greatly expand Western European tourism to the largest nation in Central Asia. The group’s 34 members include most EU countries, the United States, Canada, Mexico, Chile, Turkey, Japan, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand. But the deepest and most enduring bonds between the peoples of Kazakhstan and Western Europe exist in their shared commitment to preserving and advancing their societies through peaceful and mutual cooperation. The European Union grew out of a commitment among its peoples to avoid the horrors of the two world wars that devastated their continent in the first half of the 20th century. As soon as Kazakhstan became independent, its president and people took the historical decision to renounce all nuclear weapons and work for a world free of the scourge of nuclear weapons. This convergence of values between Kazakhstan and the nations of the EU exposes the falsehood of the myth that civilizations are doomed to clash, as the late American political writer Samuel Huntingdon claimed. On the contrary, the two regions share a commitment to international peace, cooperation, and the peaceful spreading of open societies and democratic institutions.


Oil Fuels Kazakh EU Relationship Text by Colin Berlyne

Europeans have been fascinated by the oil of the Caspian Basin ever since the Greeks located the myth of Prometheus, the titan who took fire from the heavens and brought it to mankind, in the region. Today, Kazakhstan’s rapidly developing energy resources are in demand from potential customers around the world. But nowhere is the hunger for them greater than in the industrial nations of the European Union. Kaynar Kozhumov, the director of the Agency for Research of Investment Profitability, told participants in the seminar Kazakh Oil and Gas Industry: Current Trends and Forecasts in Astana on July 2 that Europe was now by far the biggest consumer of Kazakhstan’s oil. The seminar was organised by the Kazakh branch of LUKOil Overseas. Kozhumov said that although an increasingly large proportion of China’s oil comes from Kazakhstan, that total amounts to only 12 percent of annual Kazakh production. By contrast, 60 percent of annual oil production is exported to Europe, with 15 percent being retained for domestic use. And Martin Hutchinson, a financial columnist for Reuter’s Breaking News and an expert on emerging markets, told EdgeKz that Europe’s need for Kazakh energy resources was certain to grow in coming years. “The relationship between Kazakhstan and Europe is a natural match because Europe is resource short and Kazakhstan has massive natural resources in energy and raw materials such as copper and rare earths – and these are exactly the areas that the Europeans need most,” Hutchinson said. “The Europeans also want to diversify so they are not totally dependent on Russia for their natural gas imports, and although Kazakhstan is a close trading partner of Russia, it will be

a welcome additional source of gas and other resources.” “All the Kazakhs have to do is to prove to the Europeans that they can be a reliable partner. And given the track record of some of their potential rivals, that should not be at all difficult for them,” the financial analyst said. European Commission President Jose Manuel Barroso has come to the same conclusion. “The EU is the largest foreign investor in Kazakhstan. Two thirds of this investment goes to the field of energy,” he recently acknowledged. When Barroso met with Kazakhstan’s Prime Minister Karim Massimov in Brussels in May, he noted, “The EU is already a major trading partner and the biggest investor in Kazakhstan. And we want our trade and investment relations to improve.” Barroso told Massimov, “We fully support Kazakhstan’s accession to the World Trade Organization and we are ready to work swiftly and constructively to bring this accession process to a successful conclusion.” Barroso said that during his meeting with Kazakhstan’s prime minister, they also “discussed the importance of Kazakhstan as an energy partner of the European Union. We have made solid progress in this area over the years and I am convinced that the new PCA (Partnership and Cooperation Agreement) that we are negotiating will bring new opportunities for cooperation also in the field of energy.” A 2006 Memorandum of Understanding between the EU and Kazakhstan on energy issues outlines two road maps for cooperation on enhancing energy security and industrial cooperation. It includes a regular exchange of information concerning respective energy polices, cooperation on energy transportation infrastructure and on the development of environmen-

tally clean technologies. The development of a Western China to Western Europe transportation corridor ensures that this cooperation is going to intensify. As Commissioner Barroso told Prime Minister Massimov, “Kazakhstan is a key country in Central Asia and a leading partner for the European Union in our ambition to increase and improve our ties with this important region of the world. In fact, we have been improving very much our bilateral contacts with Kazakhstan.” That energy partnership looks certain to keep the lights on in Europe and the oil fields busy in Kazakhstan for many years to come. Kazakh President Nursultan Nazarbayev with European Council President Herman Van Rompuy

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A Smokin’

Good Time The Sweet Smell of Hookah Text by ALEX LEE

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S

moking cigarettes and even cigars in some countries is on the way out. It’s just not as fashionable as it used to be in many places, including Kazakhstan, to pull out a cigarette and start smoking at your restaurant or nightclub table. But there is one form of the burning smoke that has been around for centuries and continues to gain in popularity – hookah. “Hookah’s great. We usually ask for one when we go out and I think most bars and restaurants have it now. They also have a lot of flavors. My favorite is blackberry and apple,”said 27 -year-old Astana resident Marina Koltsova while puffing on a sweet apple flavor. Hookah goes by many names. In Russia and many former Soviet republics it’s often called “kalian.” In Arabic countries it’s mostly known as “shisha,” or in some countries such as Syria it’s called “argila” or “narghile.” Throughout much of the United States and Europe, it’s asked for by the name of “hookah.” The word hookah comes from the original Indian name “huqqa.” But no matter what you call it, hookah is a centuries-old practice that is going to be part of your night if you go out in Kazakhstan. By definition, hookah is a slim, often colorful metal contraption up to one-meter tall in which smoke – generated by flavored tobacco – passes through water before being inhaled. Legend has it that it was first invented in the 1500s by a Persian in India who was the first to inhale smoke through water. He found that doing so cooled and purified the smoke, making it more palatable. That cool flavor is what continues to attract today and hookah pipes are used primarily to smoke sweet tasting and sweet smelling tobacco flavors. “My favorite flavor is strawberry with banana. I don’t know what else to smoke. It’s the only one I get and they have it everywhere,” said hookah fan Vitaly Li of Astana. In Arabic countries, hookah is an integral part of daily life and culture and has long been popular. You can often see groups of elders sitting together over long evenings chatting and sharing the pipe among two or three friends. The practice is so ingrained in the culture that women, prohibited from certain activities in some Arabic countries, can also enjoy hookah in many places.

Hookah in Kazakhstan

Hookah doesn’t hold the same cultural significance in Kazakhstan, but it has caught on as a way to socialize and share an experience among friends. And it’s not just for nightclubs. You’ll find the sweet-smelling pipe offered at some of the country’s best restaurants and many of its coffee houses and bars. One reason behind its popularity in Kazakhstan is that in October 2009, the country joined many other nations and municipalities, such as New York City, in banning old-school cigarette smoking in public places. People caught lighting up faced fines from $85 to $500 and the ban was enforced by the country’s high-

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Hookah is a centuries-old practice that is going to be part of your night out in Kazakhstan as its sweet fl avor continues to attract those who don’t like traditional tobacco est law enforcement agency. To offer a smoking option, bars and restaurants were forced to build special rooms or undergo reconstruction of their public spaces. But hookah was never banned in public and the public didn’t seem to mind. And its sweet flavor has attracted many who don’t like traditional tobacco. “It’s great that I can puff at the table and I don’t have to go outside, especially in the winter!” Koltsova told EdgeKz. So, gradually more and more bar owners began to offer it as an alternative and now rarely a social evening goes by without someone proposing a bit of hookah.

Puff Like a Local: How to Smoke Hookah Hookah is a social event and most often shared among friends. It usually follows a meal or accompanies a night of cocktails. At a club or bar, you would simply ask the waiter for hookah as you would a drink and specify the flavor of tobacco you’d like. Many clubs even offer hookah menus. The waiter will bring the large hookah pipe to the table, and – with practiced skill – place the flavored tobacco on top of the pipe, light it and take a few puffs to get the smoke flowing before turning it over to the group. The waiter will also bring small, individually wrapped mouth pieces for each member of the party. When it is your turn to take a puff, you place your mouth piece over the hookah pipe hose and then remove it before passing it on to the next person. A typical round of hookah usually costs about $24 to $34 dollars at most bars and restaurants and lasts for about 40 minutes to an hour. Some of the most popular flavors include apple, banana, strawberry and blackberry. You can also buy your own hookah pipes at many local shopping malls where they range in price from about $50 to $500 dollars depending on their size and the number of hoses. On the downside, hookah is tobacco based and carries similar health risks. But because it’s not portable, it remains largely a special occasion and social event. So if you’re going out in Kazakhstan or entertaining friends at one of the country’s better venues, order up some apple, some peach or some banana and enjoy the sweet smell of hookah.

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Sowing Seeds Kazakhstan Joins Food-Producing Superpowers Text by Colin Berlyne

The dream was amazingly ambitious: Kazakhstan was going to become

a global food exporting power on a scale comparable to Canada, Australia and Argentina. Even the country’s friends thought it would be a tall order to achieve that by 2020. But it’s already become a reality. Kazakhstan’s rise to becoming a global food producing power was foreshadowed by its crucial role after World War II for decades as the breadbasket of the Soviet Union. This began with Soviet Premier Nikita Khrushchev’s “virgin lands” program in the late 1950s and early 1960s when millions of hectares of land were ploughed for the first time in history. But the achievements of those years were undermined by ecologically reckless and catastrophic Soviet food production policies and techniques scheme. This created a dust bowl, affecting millions of hectares of potentially fertile land across the heart of Eurasia. Also, Kazakhstan’s tremendous achievements in food production in those years never received realistic market compensation in the moribund Soviet command economic system. In the first decade after independence, Kazakhstan’s great agricultural sector collapsed when its traditional, newly independent markets, primarily in Russia, could no longer afford to pay to import large supplies of food. But in recent years, the national strategy of creating a sustainable, balanced national economy whose prosperity will not be solely dependent on fuel extraction and production has had extraordinary success. In 2010-11, Kazakhstan emerged as a crucial “swing” producer, stepping in to replace Russia as a crucial exporter of grains to such markets as Iran and Egypt when Moscow, because of harvest shortfalls, had to give priority to keeping more of its food production at home. The rise of 21st world-class agriculture in Kazakhstan is no flash in the pan: It is designed to produce an agricultural and national ecology that will be robust, resilient and self-sustaining. Kazakhstan’s agricultural planners learned vital lessons from the Soviet failures. They have worked with the world’s leading ecologists and soil experts to minimize erosion through the use of contour planning and to use water resources for growing plants carefully and efficiently through advanced technology drip irrigation. They have worked with cattle experts in the United States and Canada to import Hereford and Angus cattle to upgrade the breeding of native herds. Crucially, Kazakhstan’s ambitious agricultural expansion plans have won the support of China. In addition to its huge and consistent hunger for Caspian Sea oil and natural gas, China is now looming as an enormous market for food exports through the rest of this century. Significant grain exports to China began in 2010 and this year, they have markedly expanded.

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The volume of exports to Gulf Arab nations too has already been steadily growing, signaled by the spread of Halal standards for the slaughter of cattle and preparation of meat according to strict Muslim standards. In 2011, Kazakhstan increased its agricultural output by an astonishing 26.8 percent. Kazakhstan had a record harvest in 2009 producing 25 million tons of grain. This figure fell in 2010 because of a record drought across most of Eurasia. But last year, in 2011, the grain harvest soared to a remarkable 29 million tons. This year, the figure is expected to fall again, possibly to 17-18 million tons, because of another ma-

jor heat wave, with wheat accounting for 15-16 million tons of it. But Kazakhstan has been able to store so much of the record 2011 harvest that it remains in a strong position to export millions of tons of grain and serve once again as a stabilizing swing producer for the Commonwealth of Independent States and Middle East areas.

Agricultural Emergence Over the last two years Kazakhstan has emerged as a crucial grain supplier to the Commonwealth of Independent States as well as markets such as Iran and Egypt as a result of Moscow being forced to cut ex-

ports to meet its own domestic needs. Following Russia’s export cuts, the then head of Kazakhstan’s giant KazAgro agricultural conglomerate, Assylzhan Mamytbekov, immediately offered Kazakh grain as a way to fill the gap and Kazakhstan has since stepped in to feed the 12 nations of the Russia-led Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS), including Russia, as droughts have hurt recent harvests. The last two years have also been a breakthrough for Kazakh agriculture beyond the CIS as the country has started to sell grain to China, and through China to South Korea and other Asian nations on the Pacific Rim. Kazakhstan has been able to do this not only as a result of its record 2009 and 2011 harvests, which produced 25 million tons and 29 million tons of grain respectively, but because of farsighted and significant efforts to increase the nation’s grain storage capacity. So far in 2012, Kazakhstan has exported around 11 million tons of wheat since the last harvest and another 3 million tons planned at press time for dispatch by September 1, said the chairman of the agricultural state inspection commission of the Kazakh Agricultural Ministry, Sektash Khassenov. Yet, approximately 10.8 million tons of grain from 2011 are still preserved in Kazakh grain elevators. And three new storage facilities will be constructed this year alone. What this means is that Kazakhstan has emerged as a major force for stability in the food trade and politics of Eurasia and the broader region. Speaking at a conference in London in June, Romin Madinov, a member of Majilis, the lower chamber of Kazakhstan’s parliament and the chairman of its Agricultural Committee, said Kazakhstan had already become one of the 10 largest grain exporters and the leading flour seller.

Enjoying the Harvest All of this agriculture success has not happened by accident. Kazakhstan has been actively building its agriculture program over the last five years and plans to invest

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nearly $1 billion additional dollars over the next few years. “From the beginning of 2007 to January 6, 2012, the amount of funding in the agricultural sector of KazAgro amounted to 983.1 billion tenge ($6.5 billion USD),” Tulegen Izdibaev, a spokesman for KazAgro Holding, the nation’s government agricultural entity, told EdgeKz. “In 2012, it is planned to implement a total of 65 investment projects worth 49.56 billion ($327 million).” And under the government’s Kazakhstan 2030 development strategy, the country is investing at least $20 billion in the agricultural sector to become a global food-growing and exporting power comparable to Argentina, Canada and Australia. This has opened markets near and far. “One of the major markets for exports of grain is the countries of Central Asia (Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan), Af-

ghanistan and Iran,” he said. “This is due to long-standing economic ties, geographical location and low transportation costs. Every year, these countries are markets for about two million tons of grain.” Izdibaev also noted the importance of the large Russian market next door and the effect of a recent unified economic space agreed upon between the two countries and Belarus. “For Kazakhstan, there is a special significance to be located near the capacious Russian market,” Izdibaev said. “That is especially the case since the

Customs Union eliminated tariff barriers, simplified licensing procedures and standardized veterinary standards. Thus, all the conditions for increasing the volume of exports now exist,” Izdibaev said, also noting Georgia, Turkey, Egypt, Afghanistan and the United Arab Emirates potential as significant export partners. Few countries have the privilege to feed the world through their capacity to produce huge surpluses of food on a regular basis. In a surprisingly short period of time, Kazakhstan has joined their ranks.

Learning the Lessons of Yusuf Agro Sector Stockpiles for Future Like Joseph or Yusuf, the heroes in the Bible and Quran, Kazakhstan is proving successful in preserving the grain from its record harvests to sustain itself and other countries in the region through years of poorer harvests. And these efforts may prove to be very timely given the not so rosy prospects for harvests for this year, as Kazakhstan and other countries in Eurasia have again been hit by drought. Yusuf became a hero by wisely preserving the record harvests of seven years of plenty to feed the people of Egypt and the surrounding nations in the ancient world through seven years of terrible harvests that followed. The modern nation of Kazakhstan is following in his footsteps with success for itself and other nations in the Eurasian heartland and the Middle East. Starting in 2011, Kazakhstan’s Food Contract Corporation launched a three-year program to construct a new grain export infrastructure. The program is already paying dividends. “We have 221 licensed grain reception centers. They have to perform all the necessary works to be ready to accept the new harvest,” the chairman of the Agricultural State Inspection Commission of the Kazakh Agricultural Ministry, Sektash Khassenov, said in June.

Kazakh regional authorities say a whopping 10.8 million tons of grain from 2011 are still preserved in the grain elevators: 10.2 million tons of bread grain and 500,000 tons of feeder grain. All this will be moved to grain storage facilities in other regions to make room for the coming harvest. The government is optimistic that even bigger harvests and surpluses will have to be stored in the near future. And it has approved plans and funding to expand the existing ones and construct new grain storage facilities to add 1.5 million tons to the current capacity. Three new elevators will be erected this year alone. Thus, Kazakhstan is now in a strong position to meet its domestic needs and continue its aggressive export plans. The spirit of Yusuf is alive and well in the Central Asian nation.

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Separating from the Herd Country Stakes Future on Cattle Program A new program to improve Kazakhstan’s cattle herds has brought the country halfway to regaining the nine-million-strong herds that once grazed the steppe and provided meat for the people of the Soviet Union a quarter of a century ago. Only this time, Kazakhstan hopes to provide beef far beyond its northern neighbor. “The government of Kazakhstan has a goal of turning the country into a major beef exporter by 2020, and has directed large amounts of financing to the sector,” noted U.S. Department of Agriculture analyst Levin Flake, a leading expert on the agriculture of Central Asia, in a recent report. The program is being carried out in two parts. The first part of the plan from 2011-2015 is underway and focuses on expanding the number of high-yielding breeding cattle imported into the country. The second phase will run from 2016 to 2020, and will focus on

expanding beef exports. It aims to export 60,000 metric tons of beef by 2016 and 180,000 metric tons by 2020. In terms of the breeding import program, the country has imported just over 7,000 Angus and Hereford cattle from the United States and Canada. Angus cattle “are famous for their fast maturation, fatness, and good quality mass,” Tulegen Izdibaev, a spokesman for KazAgro Holding, told EdgeKz. “Because of its fine fiber, not stringy meat, they may remain outdoors, even in the most severe frosts.” This makes them ideal for Kazakhstan’s harsh winter climate. The current cattle improvement program also includes the establishment of about 54 breeding farms with 72,000 young

cows. At press time, the company had purchased in 2012 42,000 cattle that will be brought to Kazakhstan to increase and improve the country’s existing herds. The program is a massive undertaking, but the government will and dollars are there. KazAgro is prepared to provide $900 million through 2015 for the development of the sector. “These government support programs have already begun to have a significant impact as live cattle imports have surged, and a number of large commercial cattle production facilities have recently been established,” Flake noted in his report. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has also noted a built-in advantage Kazakhstan possesses in its effort to become a major beef producer and exporter. The agency’s report notes that there is a “very large availability of unused pasture in the northern, central, western, and eastern regions of Kazakhstan for the grazing of cattle” and the “strong competitiveness of Kazakh beef on the Russian market.” However, the USDA also cautions that Kazakhstan’s cattle herds are still “concentrated in small households” far too much and the country still only produces a “small amount of feed grain planted area in Kazakhstan.” Most serious, the USDA points out the “poor genetic make-up of Kazakh cattle and low levels of breeding stock.” The program so far, however, is successfully moving Kazakhstan’s herds toward the significant numbers they enjoyed for generations. Kazakhstan’s beef production and exports collapsed after the disintegration of the Soviet Union. The newly independent Kazakhstan didn’t have the resources to supply big government subsidies to the agricultural sector. As a result, the old system of government-owned farms (sovkhozes and kolkhozes) collapsed. According to the Kazakhstan Statistics Agency, in 1992 Kazakhstan had 9.5 million cattle. This number declined to below 4 million head by 1999. Today, there are close to 6.5 million cattle in the country and, should all go well, Kazakhstan will resume its export role. “Population growth will lead to higher meat consumption and the creation of the Customs Union with Russia will enhance the competiveness of Kazakh beef in Russia,” the USDA noted in its report. It also noted the prospects for the rapid expansion of Kazakhstan’s meat exports to the Middle East and the wider Muslim world. “The establishment of Halal standards will increase the potential of exports to Arab countries and the Middle East,” it concluded. And in just a few years, Kazakhstan plans to meet that potential.

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Crouching Tiger Hungry Dragon Feeding Asia’s Largest Population

China is now looming as an enormous market for food exports through the rest of this century. Significant grain exports to China began in 2010, and this year they have markedly expanded. “China, with an average annual consumption of 100 million tonnes of wheat, is one of the most promising and untapped markets,” Tulegen Izdibaev, a spokesman for Kazakhstan’s national KazAgro Holding, told EdgeKz. Only two years ago, in June 2010, Kazakh Prime Minister Karim Massimov and his agricultural planners unveiled Kazakhstan’s ambitious agricultural expansion plans to an audience of world leaders and global executives at the Fourth Kazakhstan Investment Conference in Almaty. Lou Jiwei, the chairman and chief executive officer of the giant China Investment Company (CIC), recognized the significance of their vision immediately. “The China Investment Company is ready to bring our capital and more advanced agricultural technology to develop Kazakhstan’s agriculture,” Lou told the conference. “Most important, we can bring access to China’s domestic market. There is huge demand,” he said. Lou recognized that the enormous agricultural potential of Kazakhstan that the Soviets had misused could be of enormous benefit as a partner of China. “Kazakhstan used to be the barn, the agricultural base, of the former Soviet Union but now many of the good lands there have been idle for

a long time,” he said. “The CIC is willing to commit its efforts to work with the government and businesses in Kazakhstan to face the challenge together.” “It looks like you have found a powerful partner in your plans,” Stephen Dunbar-Johnson, publisher of the Paris-based International Herald Tribune told Massimov, who was sitting on the same closing panel to the conference. The significance of CIC Chairman and Chief Executive Officer Lou’s pledge was recognized by Massimov. “Kazakhstan and China are very close neighbors. So why not do this?” he asked. With incredible speed, the vision of Kazakhstan’s leaders and their Chinese partners is coming to pass. Starting in 2011, Kazakhstan’s Food Contract Corporation launched a three-year program in constructing a new grain export infrastructure to supply China on a regular and large-scale basis with grain. The project is called, “Building the Grain Railway Terminal on the Border of China.” Izdibaev told EdgeKz he is optimistic about prospects for making Kazakhstan a reliable long-term grain exporter to China. “We have a good opportunity for the successful promotion of grain on the Chinese market,” he said. “In the first place, we enjoy geographic proximity to the Chinese market. In the second place, we already share close political and economic relations. In addition, China’s partial dependence on the energy resources of Kazakhstan suggests that Beijing is willing to

make concessions to resolve the issue of grain exports to China through trade and economic relations.” KazAgro is also taking steps to sell major agricultural exports to South Korea and Japan, Izdibaev said. The holding company has already signed a Memorandum of Understanding with South Korea’s giant Samsung C & T Corporation and has concluded a protocol of intentions on cooperation with Japan’s Toyota Tsusho Corporation, he added.

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Kazakh StrikeS LUCKY SEVEN in London Text by Colin Berlyne

Olympic Weightlifter Ilya Ilyin

K

azakhstan athletes scored an unprecedented success in the country’s independent history at the London 2012 Olympics, placing the country 12th out of 205 countries that participated. They won a stunning seven gold, one silver and five bronze medals in cycling, weightlifting, triple jump, boxing, and both Greco-Roman and freestyle wrestling. Kazakhstan was represented in the Games by 116 athletes competing in 25 sports. The flag bearer of the team was wrestler Nurmahan Tynaliev and President Nursultan Nazarbayev of Kazakhstan attended the opening ceremony. The nation’s first gold medals were won by the famous cyclist Alexander Vinokurov in the 250 km men’s road race and by the young star of Kazakh weightlifting Zulfiya Chinshanlo. Vinokurov completed the 250 km distance on the first full day of the Games in a total time of five hours, 45 minutes and 57 seconds beating Colombia’s Rigoberto Uran Uran. His convincing victory demonstrated once more the high level of domestic cycling in Kazakhstan. Previously, Vinokurov’s top achievement was the silver medal, which he won in the Sydney Olympics 12 years ago. “It is a solid final achievement of

my professional sports career. I could only dream of such an ending,” Vinokurov told a press conference after his victory. On the second day of the Games, 19-yearold Chinshanlo won the second gold medal for Kazakhstan, setting both world and Olympic records in the women’s weightlifting 53 kilogram category with her 131 kg lift in the clean and jerk category. Previously, Chinshanlo had won two gold medals in the world championships and the silver medal at the Asian Games. President Nazarbayev sent telegrams congratulating Vinokurov and Chinshanlo on their achievements. To Vinokurov, the president wrote, “Your determination and huge will helped you advance through the race and defeat the most powerful competitors. You gave a splendid gift to all Kazakhstan citizens and sports fans who were watching the race with much interest and excitement.” And to the young weightlifter, the president said, “You have not only won the medal of utmost honor and importance for every sportsman, you have also set a new world record and defeated the world’s strongest sportswomen. Once again you have showed the whole world your faultless skills and will to win. Kazakhstan is proud of you.”


Olympic Triple Jumper Olga Rypakova

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Maiya Maneza, 26, also triumphed in the 63 kg weightlifting division. She lifted 135 kilograms – more than twice her own weight – in her first clean and jerk for a total weight of 245 kilograms. Maneza set a new Olympic record, beating the previous one by three kilos. Stunning victories by Svetlana Podobedova and Ilya Ilyin in weightlifting and by Olga Rypakova in the women’s triple jump final raised Kazakhstan to seventh place 10 days into the Olympics. On August 3, Podobedova, the 26-year-old weightlifter won a fourth gold medal for Kazakhstan. President Nazarbayev also sent Podobedova a telegram congratulating her on her victory. “Despite intense competition, you were able to proudly represent our country in the world games. The gold medal won by you serves as the indicator of the high quality, will and strength of your character. It is remarkable that from now on the title of Olympic Champion is

among your sports achievements. I wish you the best of luck and new victories,” the presidential said. Ilyin lifted 185 kilograms in snatch and 233 kilograms in clean and jerk. He also set a new world record in his category and became the first Kazakh athlete in history to become an Olympic champion twice. Ilyin won gold for the first time at the Beijing Olympics in 2008. He was world champion in 2005, 2006, and 2011 and was Asian Games champion in 2006 and 2011. “Setting the world record and winning your second Olympics gold, you have proved that you keep your word and you have always aimed at the highest sports result. At the competition you did not give a chance to your competitors – the strongest weightlifters of the world,” President Nazarbayev told Ilyin in another victory telegram. However, the biggest surprise of the Olympics’ early days was the victory of Olga Rypakova from Ust-Kamenogorsk in

the triple jump. Rypakova won the sixth gold medal for Kazakhstan, taking the title with a third-round jump of 14.98 metres, her season’s best result. President Nazarbayev congratulated Rypakova on her achievement. “You have fully justified the hopes and expectations of the Kazakhstani people, demonstrating to everyone that our athletes are among the best in the world. Undoubtedly your victory will become a worthy example for many young athletes and will attract thousands of children to track and field,” the president said. And on the last day of the Games, Serik Sapiyev became the seventh lucky gold winner for Kazakhstan, becoming the Olympic champion in boxing’s 69 kg light welterweight division and receiving the prestigious Val Barker Trophy for winning in style. In total, Kazakhstan won 13 medals and finished 12th in the medal count. Its achievement in winning seven gold medals was the best in the country’s Olympic history.

Strike Gold in Kazakhstan’s results in London are the best the country has enjoyed at any Olympic Games

London Top-left: Olympic Cycling Road Race Gold Medalist Alexandre Vinokourov, center: Olympic Weightlifter Maya Maneza, right: Olympic Weightlifter Svetlana Podobedova Immediate-right: Gold Medalist in the 69 kg light welterweight division Serik Sapiyev 50 EDGEKZ.com No. 7 september 2012

Olympic Weightlifter Zulfiya Chinshanlo



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Batyrs

Modern Day 052_055_Edge_07_Martial_Arts.indd 53

Ancient Kazakh Martial Art Survives Text by Alex Lee

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azakhstan is a modern, peaceful and peace loving nation. Its more than 130 ethnicities of multiple religions live side by side and its international relationships are equally weighed between East and West. But there was once a less peaceful time across the Eurasian steppe. A time when Kazakh batyrs, or warriors, were forced to defend their motherland against foe after foe as the great open lands were being settled. And it is from those times that sprang Kazakhstan’s own martial arts – zhekpezhek, or One on One. Through the centuries on the wilds of the steppe, Kazakh men, particularly batyrs, had to learn to defend themselves, their families and their loved ones – not only against invading armies but from internal tribal squabbles. And to spare lives, as well as not lose good fighting men to tribal disputes who could be put to better use defending against invaders, Kazakh tribes came up with a unique way to settle inter-tribal scores – zhekpezhek, which in Kazakh means “one on one.” Why shed the blood of many when a dispute could be settled by a fight between just two men? So a zhekpezhek fight would mean victory or defeat for a whole tribe, while sacrificing only one man. And indeed, these zhekpezhek matches were fights to the death. The weapons to be used would be pre-determined and the batyrs in the fight would do their utmost to kill their opponent, thus sparing the lives of their fellow tribesmen. It required moral and physical courage to go into these one-on-one battles with the weight of your kinsmen on your shoulders. Though the need for such zhekpezhek matches passed and the practice was deemed too brutal as modern times arrived, the spirit lives in the efforts of modern Kazakh warriors who have revived the ways of their ancestors to bring back this traditional martial art. Minus the to-the-death part.

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ZheKpeZheK is often referred to as the ultiMate fighting of Central asia BeCause it CoMBines eleMents of wrestling, judo, jiu jitsu and KiCKBoxing A moDErn rEvivAl

toDAy’S ZhEKpEZKEK Zhekpezhek is often referred to as the ultimate fighting of Central Asia because it combines elements of wrestling, judo, jiujitsu and kickboxing and because there are few rules. The strongest fighter almost always wins. The basic rules of zhekpezhek are as follows: there are two five-minute rounds in a match. If a winner is not determined after 10 minutes, a third round is added. If there’s still no winner after a third round, the referees decide the outcome of the bout. There are four referees governing the match, including three side referees and one in the ring. There aren’t many rules, but there are a few: no eye-gouging, no elbowing, no knees to the head, no strikes to the back of the head, no hair-pulling and no hits below the belt. Everything else is considered fair game. Fights are held in a ring, usually with helmets and elbow pads, though safety equipment isn’t always used. Zhekpezhek might best be described as a blend of mixed martial arts and the anan cient, no-holds-barred Greek Olympic wrestling sport known as pankration. Like other martial arts, it requires lots of training and practice. Bouts usually start with kicking and end up on the mat with fighters wrestling until one brings the other to submission. You’ve got to be tough, patient and wise to win at zhekpezhek.

The Kazakh ZhekpeZhek Federation was established in 2004 with the help of the government and renowned kick boxing coach, disdis tinguished boxer and former Soviet Union paratrooper karate champion Sabyrzhan Makhmetov, who was named the federafedera tion’s first president. The federation was formed to re-introduce the once-popular martial art to a new generation. And so far it’s working. Local and regional municipalities support zhekpezhek training centers across the Kazakh steppe, workouts are free and young kids are joining zhekpezhek programs. Numerous youth tournaments are now held around the country. More serious adult tournaments are also held annually, including a major tournament held in April in eastern Kazakhstan. The tournament attracted participants from many martial arts disciplines, including judo and jiujitsu, as the flexible, nearly noholds-barred nature of zhekpezhek accommodates many fightfight ing styles. This flexibility helps the sport capture the interest of a broad range of martial artists. Another tournament was held over the summer in the Almaty region which attracted some of the sport’s greats, including the federation’s current president Yelmurat Kaiypzhanov. So EdgeKz decided to talk to some of these modern day warriors to find out what they and the ancient martial art are all about.

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Zhekpezhek fighter Yelmurat Kaipzhanov

thE nEw BAtyrS

yelMurat KaipZhanov prESiDEnt of thE ZhEKpEZhEK fEDErA rAtion rA Ation AnD formEr intErnAtion A Ation Al KicKBoxinG chAmpion

As a two-time European kickboxing champion, Asian champion, international champion and Kazakh kickboxing champion, Kaipzhanov is not a person you want to mess with. But that wasn’t always the case. “In school, I was the weakest kid and my peers always mocked me, made fun of me, beat me and tried to extort money out of me,” Kaipzhanov, now 37 years old and living in Astana, told EdgeKz. “I would go home and watch Bruce Lee movies and I would dream about kicking back like him, about fighting back. But every time I faced (the bullies), the same thing would happen and I would get beat up. So I decided to stop dreaming and actually start doing something about it!” So he began training in various martial arts and quickly realized he had a talent for it. “As I matured and got better and better, my ambitions got larger. I wanted to raise the Kazakh flag over my head and become the world champion.” His hard work paid off and Kaipzhanov became the European champion in 1996 and 1998 and twice waved the Kazakh flag over his head as a champion. Kaipzhanov’s skills came in handy not only in the ring, but in the streets in the years immediately following Kazakh independence when things weren’t as stable as they are today. “Since then, Kazakhstan has changed a lot. We don’t fight anymore; it is not necessary unless I am in the ring. It’s much safer

Zhekpezhek fighter Aidar Makhmetov, center

now in Kazakhstan.” Today, Kaipzhanov focuses on developing and passing zhekpezhek on to the next generation. “I wish the young starting athletes a lot of patience and perseverance. Zhekpezhek is really tough, but we [the federation] do everything to make it as available to the kids as possible, so everyone can train and be proud of this national sport,” he said, adding that he hopes zhekpezhek will become the pride of Kazakhstan similar to judo in Japan or tae kwon do in Korea. “We are planning to make zhekpezhek an international sport, taking it to international-level tournaments and inviting some UFC [Ultimate Fighting Championship] fighters to try and see if they can handle it.”

aidar MaKhMetov ASiAn KicKBoxinG chAmpion,

thrEE-timE worlD ShiDoKAn KArA rAt rA AtE chAmpion AnD phD in politicAl SciEncE from thE univErSity of coloGnE

Aidar Makhmetov is another Kazakh batyr who is helping revive zhekpezhek. Makhmetov began practicing traditional judo at the age of nine and fell in love with martial arts. “I don’t know exactly, it feels like the call of the soul,” he said of his attraction to the combat arts. Unfortunately, he dislocated his shoulder nearly eight years into his judo career and had to give up the sport because the moves were too dangerous for his arm. Mixed martial arts were just coming to Kazakhstan at the time and were becoming popular. So he switched sports and took up the ancient Greek Olympic wrestling and combat sport of pankration. “Even Socrates might have

been an Olympic champion in pankration,” noted the 33-year-old Astana resident. But he didn’t stop there. He also took up kickboxing and by 1998 had become the sport’s Asian champion. And in 2002 and 2003, Makhmetov was the world’s professional shidokan style karate champion, after having held the sport’s amateur world title. He was then invited by the president of the World Karate Federation to represent Kazakhstan in the prestigious Samurai-Grand-Prix in Tokyo. “I always feel proud and excited to represent my country. It was a big honour for me to represent Kazakhstan to the world. To feel my country’s flag on my shoulders after winning the fight was awesome. It was one of the happiest moments in my life!” he told EdgeKz. “It was my big dream to become the world champion… I was really happy to finally achieve my dream.” When it comes to zhekpezkek, Makhmetov says that it is very similar to other disciplines and that will help increase its popularity. Makhmetov has been able to enjoy the sport as a result of the training and flexibility gained through his early martial arts training. But Makhmetov isn’t just a fighter. He holds a PhD in political science from the University of Cologne and is currently the director of the Department of Public Relations for the national Sovereign Wealth Fund Samruk Kazyna, the largest state-owned investment fund in Kazakhstan. His advice for the country’s next generation of fighters, including Kazakhstan’s new crop of zhekpezhek masters: “Just believe in yourself. You have to have a big dream and you have to put everything you have toward achieving it. It can be difficult along the way. But (the obstacles) can’t break you; they can only make you stronger.”

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Tidbit

T

Paying

to Sit A Local’s Take on a Nightlife Custom

Text by Astana Local Alex Lee

At the top nightclubs in Kazakhstan you can sometimes pay up to $500 just to sit down at a regular table, and if you want to reserve VIP treatment, the price can climb even higher Life in Kazakhstan’s major cities is getting better and better. Almaty and Astana are growing and becoming more internationally known. And the social and nightlife scenes in both cities are hopping. But there is one aspect of social life in Astana

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and Almaty that might take you a little while to get used to – when you go out, you often have to pay to sit. The most exclusive clubs in many of the world’s major cities have similar policies. The difference here is that table fees

apply to even non-exclusive clubs and bars and often don’t include extras, such as a bottle of vodka. It’s just the rules. “I would gladly pay (large fees) but at least for a VIP room. But VIP rooms are even more expensive. And paying crazy mon-

Charyn Canyon

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Tidbit

T

Potential cost of a regular table at a top Kazakh night club:

$500 Potential cost of a VIP table for 3-4 people at a top Kazakh night club:

$200–300 Potential cost of a VIP table for more than 5 people at a top Kazakh night club:

$500 Potential cost of a dinner table at a Kazakh bar/restaurant:

$35

ey for a standard table is complete nonsense,” said one 25-year-old web designer and party goer from Almaty who identified himself only as Danil. Just a few weeks ago, I went to one of Almaty’s hottest nightclubs, Chukotka. The place was packed with people from all walks of life; business types you won’t expect at a club, artsy web designers, young entrepreneurs and lots of beautiful people. A perfect night out, right? Except for the fact that I couldn’t sit down. At the top nightclubs in Kazakhstan you can sometimes pay up to $500 just to sit

down at a regular table, and if you want VIP treatment, the price can climb even higher. A table for three to four people can run $200 to $300. And if you have more than five in your party, be prepared to fork over $500. You can still have a good time and enjoy the atmosphere without paying for a table, but you’ll need to find a railing or bar to lean on. The other thing you need to prepare yourself for when heading out into the Kazakh night is that the same concept of paying for tables applies to many of the country’s bars. At Guns ‘n’ Roses in Astana, for

example, patrons have to pay up to $35 before even sitting down to dinner. “I have travelled to many countries like France, Italy and cannot remember that I had to pay to sit down at bars, this is ridiculous,” 24-year-old Almaty fashion designer who identified herself as Aigerim told EdgeKz. So if you’re going to head out for a good time in Kazakhstan, wear comfortable shoes or bring a little extra tenge – local currency – to pay to sit. On the other hand, if you’re going to a nightclub to sit down or can’t bear to stand for a few hours, maybe it’s past your bedtime anyway.

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anyon

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beautiful Twasheandthemysterious, international Mata Hari inspiration for Kazakh designer Aida Kaumenova’s latest collection.

“This collection was for a successful, mature woman, with a unique life story who didn’t lose her ease and tenderness and youthful spark,” Kaumenova told EdgeKz. Through the spirit of the renowned World War I era spy and lover, the collection also reflects the internationalism which shapes life in Kazakhstan. “We got inspired by the idea of Europe meeting the East. The head decorations underline a mysterious woman’s guise transforming her into a fairy tale princess… the modern spy Mata Hari wandering in the expanses of Europe and the East.” More specifically, Kaumenova – who has boutiques and showrooms in Almaty and Astana – says the collection is for demanding, accomplished women who are also in great shape. The collection incorporates yellow chiffon, coral, light blue, reds and tender pink. The collection also includes elongated vests, embroidery, capes and robes.

Designer Aida Kaumenova

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AIDA K


Kaumenova

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AK Kaumenova began her career in art school followed by training at the Italian School of Fashion. She also gained experience working as a designer for various companies and was the designer for the first “Daralique” trademark, which carried the “Made in Kazakhstan” label. Today, Kaumenova owns the Aida KaumeNOVA boutique in Astana, a showroom in Almaty and will soon open a second boutique in the Mega shopping center in Almaty. “I’ve always lived with fashion. And now when so much has been accomplished and so much is waiting ahead, it’s nice to realize that my life and work and hobby are my vocation and joy,” she told EdgeKz.

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AK In Astana, you can see Kaumenova’s designs by visiting her boutiques at the Keruen Shopping Center, number 36 at 9 Dostyk Street and at the SaryArka Mall at 24 Turan Avenue. Her boutique at the Almaty Mega Center was slated at press time to open in August 2012. You can also call 7 (727) 2911 390, 7 (727) 2914 383, email all@aida-kaumenova.com or visit her website at www.aida-kaumenova.com.

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Kazakh Model

Breaks the Mold Spreading Fashion, Crushing Stereotypes Text by Michelle Witte

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W

hile it’s true that all models are beautiful, the public often makes other assumptions about the svelte creatures in front of the fashion cameras that just aren’t true. And one Kazakh model is out to not only achieve success on the world’s catwalks, but to break stereotypes while doing it. “Many think that to work as a model you just need long legs, a pretty face and a little luck. Of course, luck and looks are important, but… to be successful in this business, you have to be wise, you have to know something about psychology, know how to socialise, know business etiquette, learn the traditions of the country where you’re working, learn foreign languages… No one likes dummies,” says 21-year-old Almaty-based model Diana Fedorenko. Fedorenko actually started out with a goal to be an actress, but she was discovered by a modeling agency at the age of 17, while on a casting call for the TV programme MuzZone. She has since modeled for the Metropolitan Model Agency and worked in Kazakhstan, Japan and other international locations. Fedorenko admits that her life is the one many young women dream about, but says there is another side to the dream. “People think that working as a

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model is easy and pleasant, without much to do. Just walk up and down the catwalk, pose for the camera, star in commercials and video clips, go to parties with stars, travel, and get paid a lot for it. This is the dream of a lot of girls,” Fedorenko told EdgeKz. “The other side, which includes daily workouts, going to different castings, the strict diets, cruel schedules, not enough sleep, constant work on yourself and so on, is only experienced by the models themselves.” Life on the road, she says, also includes temptations that some young women have a difficult time managing. “A lot of models smoke even at a very young age… Worse yet is that most girls are wasting their lives at nightclubs, at constant parties… spoiling their beauty and health with alcohol and sometimes even with drugs. And the worst ever is that they don’t think about preserving their chastity,” said Fedorenko. In addition to the often not-so-true assumption that modelling is glamorous, many also assume that models aren’t smart. “Most of my model acquaintances who have become successful in modelling are smart girls. A lot of them have higher educations with honours and speak several languages. One of my friends from St. Petersburg actually worked as a teacher of Russian literature. So I can’t really say that

“ I like working as a model since it helps me constantly gain new life experiences, travel, meet interesting people, learn foreign languages and encounter new cultures and countries … ”

all models are stupid. On the contrary, to become a successful model one has to use one’s head.” Fedorenko is not only using her head while navigating the world of high fashion, but wants to share the knowledge she’s gained with the next generation. “I want to continue travelling, gain experience, get more knowledge and skills, and then share it all with young models just starting out,” she said. “If I had had a mentor who could have given me good advice about the modelling business, I would have had an easier time. That is why I would like to share my experience with others who are just starting this interesting journey.” Fedorenko is quick to point out that modelling isn’t all false assumptions and gruelling workouts. “I love video and photo shoots. I like to transform and live the roles of my characters,” she said. “I like working as a model since it helps me constantly gain new life experiences, travel, meet interesting people, learn foreign languages and encounter new cultures and countries. It’s perfect for me.” And it is those experiences that Fedorenko says are the most valuable part of the job. “I’m not striving to be a super model,” she says. “I just want to grow and develop as a person, get to know this world, and of course to become a real professional, to obtain the highest peak of my professional skill… For me, success is getting this valuable life experience.”

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Augustin Restaurant

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hoosing a place to eat in Kazakhstan’s major cities almost always ends up as a tour through the country’s diverse and eclectic culture. Traditional Kazakh options abound, of course, but there are just as well-established Russian, German, Georgian, Uzbek, Chinese and other restaurants representing cultures that have made significant contributions here. Muslim-Chinese, ChineseIndian, and other blends come from centuries of coexistence. Lately, the country has also welcomed a slew of sushi joints and Thai restaurants. Kazakhstan’s new foodies are keen to embrace the new and different. Traditional national and regional cuisine also remains popular. In Astana, Astana Nury prepares favorites from Kazakhstan and the Caucuses according to strict traditional methods. At Kishlak and Ali Baba, classic Uzbek and Kazakh dishes are served

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by wait staff in traditional costumes. At the other end of the spectrum is Korean House, providing a taste of home to the capital’s Korean population and Kazakhs who’ve come to love Korean food. Choices in Almaty are even more varied. At Thai, Thai chefs prepare their food using a combination of specially imported delicacies and local products. Fish and seafood are increasingly popular in this landlocked country, and restaurants like Porto Maltese provide fresh, Mediterranean-style preparations of a variety of fresh catches. Namaste is an Indian refuge for vegetarians, which is a great find in this meat-centric region. And you don’t have to worry about the language barrier while ordering. The better restaurants offer English menus, and those that don’t almost always feature friendly wait staff ready to help you figure it out. So whet your appetite and prepare for a foodie tour through Kazakhstan’s multi-ethnic culture.


Austeria

After the December 2010 edition of Edge, this successful Almaty chain restaurant extended its reach to Astana – and it has not disappointed. So extensive is the fare, that the restaurant’s website lists 17 different menus to cover it all. Think classic Russian dishes with a good dose of French haute influence, recreating the culinary traditions of late-Czarist Imperial St. Petersburg. Then throw in some Western taste, and you have an adult-ready, kid-friendly mesh of what the Czars may have done if they set out to create their own version of an upscale Ruby Tuesdays. Expect a menu of clay-baked lamb and veal, a steak list with more than 20 entrees, seafood, plus bar food and a children’s menu. And just when you think it’s over, they roll the dessert menu out. There’s even a hookah flavor selection that’s 50 percent off on Wednesday nights. You can enjoy phenomenal wine and spirits and live music, too. Takeout and delivery is available. Take a look at the delivery menu on their website, but it’s also worth coming here just to see the fantastic and unusual interior. Cuisine: European Address: 8 Vodno-Zelenyi Boulevard in the Keruen Shopping Center Phone: 8 (7172) 79 55 13 Hours: 10:00 am – 11:00 pm Price Range: $$ Website: www.austeria.net/

Al Fresco

If you crave some traditional Italian food – whether staple favorites common in Europe and America, to authentic specialty dishes – this menu is sure to satisfy. The chef prides himself in diversity, and loves to mix things up with surprise offerings or accommodating special requests. The attentive staff is really the ones responsible for the great atmosphere here. Al Fresco is perfect for a power lunch, a business dinner, a date or for a child’s birthday. Service is fast, so if you want you can eat and be out in 30 minutes, but you very well may choose to linger through the afternoon or evening over wine and/or coffee. Cuisine: Italian

Address: 14 Kunayeva Street Phone: 8 (7172) 50-83-85 Hours: 10:00 am – 12:00 am Business lunch: 12:00 pm – 04:00 pm Price range: $$

Arbalet

If you would like to forget the mundane for a while and pretend you are back in the Dark Ages or in the Arctic North, this is the place for you. Arbalet has a Viking theme with traditional tall, heavy chairs, stone walls, swords and axes on the walls. It is easy to get to and stays open 24 hours a day. Arbalet is not cheap, but the ambiance is wonderfully romantic, and the food is consistently good. Cuisine: European Address: 16 Beibitshilik Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 32 40 60 Price: $$$

Arystan Restaurant

Most European-style restaurants in Astana are relatively expensive. This one is not, even though it has an impressive interior. Anyone looking for casual dining will like Arystan, and students can afford it. Cuisine: European Address: 2 Aykayryn Street Phone: 8 (7172) 29 20 36 Price range: $

Assorti

This popular chain has many outlets all over Kazakhstan (including small ones at the Astana and Almaty airports) and an impressive range of cuisine served at reasonable prices. (Of all other places, Assorti has now been opened in Arlington, Virginia, just across the street from Hell’s Burger, frequented by Barack Obama.) It serves a mixture of Italian, Japanese, Russian and European. The décor and atmosphere are routine, but you can consistently count on good food and good service. Assorti has some of the best pizza, pasta and salads compared to similar franchises in Kazakhstan. The grill is pretty good, too. It is also large, and is often packed at nights, especially weekends. Assorti has buffets during the day. Cuisine: Russian, Italian, Japanese Address: 9 Dostyk Street (right behind Ramstore) Phone: 8 (7172) 79 53 97 Price range: $$

Astana Nury

When you have something to celebrate, this is the place to come. It is easily one of the best restaurants in town with excellent service, a sophisticated, elegant atmosphere and a splendid range of shish kebabs (45 different varieties of shashlyk, including vegetarian). In all, it has 150 selections on the menu. It also has delicious desserts. You will get a 20% discount on the entire menu for lunch, on weekdays from 12:00 pm to 4:00 pm. With a slice of sophisticated 1920s Cole Porter Paris effortlessly transported to the heart of Central Asia, the music alone is worth the trip, and the price. The restaurant is located on the new embankment of the Yessil River with a spectacular view of the cityscape. It is particularly nice in the summer, when you can sit on the veranda and watch people walking along the river, as well as view the lights from the amusement park. Because of its proximity to the river, it’s a big spot for special occasions such as weddings. Cuisine: Caucasian, European Address: 3/2 Respublika Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 43 93 38/39 Price range: $$$ Website: www.a-n.kz

Augustin Restuarant

Augustin Restaurant is a new eatery in downtown Astana that will transport you back to old Europe. From its authentic interior to its self-brewed German beer, Augustin is the place to go if you’re in the mood for a taste of Europe. Address: 13 Dostik Ave. Phone: +7 (7172) 579 090 Hours: Daily 10 am - last customer Price range: $$

Bagrationi

Bagrationi is one of Astana’s most authentic Georgian restaurants. They import all ingredients, including the bottle water, from Georgia and recruited their chefs from top restaurants in Georgia. The restaurant features traditional Georgian food such as Khachapuri and features unique Georgian art, photography and crafts. Live Georgian music is also played most nights. Address: 25 Turan Avenue

Phone: 8 (7172) 40 21 48, 8 (7172) 40 21 50 Hours: Daily 11:00 am – 2:00 am Price range: $$$

Beerhoff

As the name suggests, prepare for a genuine culinary journey through Deutschland and Mitteleuropa (Central Europe). The owners have captured the spirit of these regions’ famous beerhouses superbly, presenting an earthy atmosphere and a hearty selection of juicy sausages, steaks and grilled meats. If you are a beer connoisseur, or simply a beer lover, this is your place: You’ll find here one of the better selections of draught beer in Astana, especially of the German persuasion. Cuisine: European Address: 44 Kenessary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 21 00 10, 8 (7172) 21 00 40 Hours: 11am - 2am Price Range: $

Bochonok Brewery

For German and Mitteleuropa visitors seeking gemutlechkeit cuisine, or American and Russian engineers thirsty for good beer

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com 67


Augustin Restaurant Friendly Service, European Ambiance Europe has always been famous for its architecture, rich history and exquisite taste. And a new beer restaurant in the heart of Astana reflects that inviting culture. The moment you step into the new Augustin Restaurant, you are warmly greeted by the hostess and surrounded by the sights of Europe. The impression of suddenly teleporting from modern Astana to Renaissance France is complete. The eatery features authentic wooden doors from the Renaissance period and you will be led to your table through decorated trees and paved stone. Uniquely, it also appears as if parts of old buildings are sticking out of the walls here and there. The ancient feel is integrated with large TVs for a modern touch. The menu is mod-

and food (especially meat), we recommend the Bochonok. Styled after an old European brewery, this restaurant offers a wide variety of beers and has solid and large menu. It sometimes offers grill specials, and it is not too pricey. Cuisine: European, mixed Address: 75 Kenessary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 37 16 66 Price range: $$ Website: www.bochonok.kz

Capital Music and Pub Restaurant

For middle-aged partiers in search of a good time, you can’t do better than the Capital. Located in Astana’s spectacular new left bank, not far from Baiterek Tower, it has live music featuring popular Russian and international songs. You can also sing karaoke in the VIP room. The VIP room gets booked early on weekends, so call early if you want to sing with your friends.

Cuisine: European, Kazakh Address: 14 Tauelydzyk Street Phone: 8 (7172) 24 46 71 Price range: $$

Chilli Peppers

No local atmosphere here! This is as Western frenetic as they come, which makes it a very popular pizza place for young people. The low prices and good value for portions don’t hurt either. The main room seats about 30 people, and it has a small VIP hall for 10. It’s conveniently located close to the Baiterek Tower, and they deliver as well. Cuisine: Pizza, European, Italian Address: 33 Sarayshik Street Phone: 8 (7172) 50 37 73 Price range: $

East West

A fascinating mix of 21st century sophisticated cuisine and 20th century caution in its décor, East West offers both general international and excellent Indian

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ern European prepared by renowned French Chef Jean Philippe Gaume. Accompanying the Russian- and Englishlanguage menu is an extensive wine list and German beer brewed by Augustin. “Our best seller is our brewed beer. It is fresh and tasty, everybody likes it. After all we are a beer restaurant. However, because our chef is French our cuisine is also top of the line,” Aizhan Kazymova, the director of Augustin, told EdgeKz. A pleasant jazz quartet with a violin, piano, saxophone and guitar plays daily from 8 p.m. to 11 p.m. and adds a romantic touch. Hookah lovers will also enjoy Augustin’s 15 smoking flavors. “We love our guests. We try to serve them as we would like to be served ourselves and our customers keep coming back,” Kazymova told EdgeKz. Augustin is conveniently located in downtown Astana on the left bank just a few minutes’ walk from the Baiterek Tower and other business and visitor attractions. So take a look for yourself and step back into old Europe.

cuisine. The interior retains a preindependence style. A must see if you are interested in Soviet décor. Please change that. Cuisine: Indian, International Address: 2/2 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 24 40 34 Price range: $$

Egorkino Derevnya

Located in Restaurant Alley, Egorkino Derevnya is a part of a hotel with the same name. It’s not cheap, but you can get good Russian food here, usually much better than you would find in many parts of Russia. It has excellent meat and very good salads, as well as fish, like sturgeon. Since it opened, this restaurant has maintained a high standard of cuisine. It has two floors and a garden area with a Russian-village theme and heavy wooden doors. It is open from 12:00 to midnight. Cuisine: Russian Address: 33 Turan Avenue

Phone: 8 (7172) 40 21 81 Price range: $$$

Epoch Anyone who misses the Cold War or still loves old John Le Carre novels has to make a stop here. Epoch has a décor evocative of the Soviet Union – and revels in it. Old Russian-made cars are parked inside and out. This is a great theme restaurant with public and private rooms, depicting Soviet-era flags and icons. Some areas have glass floors with memorabilia underneath. The food is bold and innovative, and the menu includes whole-cooked fresh fish, goose and rabbit, all at reasonable prices. It’s a great place to party with live music and dancing on the weekends. A very good value. Cuisine: European, Kazakh, Russian Address: 9 Valikhanov Street Phone: 8 (7172) 21 01 57 Price range: $$


Europe-Asia

home. The Mediterranean cuisine is outstanding. This is also one of the prime locales for sophisticated partiers on a Friday night. Expensive, but worth every tenge.

Cuisine: European, Kazakh Address: 30 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 62 87 43 Price range: $$

Cuisine: Mediterranean Address: 4 Sary Arka Avenue, Radisson Hotel Phone: 8 (7172) 99 00 00 Price range: $$$

Good, solid value and quality food, neither too cheap nor too expensive, with a solid selection of European and Kazakh dishes.

Farkhi / Ali Baba

With its big yurt-shaped building, this place is great fun, and the perfect place to bring kids. Everyone loves the Ali Baba, located just off the big curve of the Yessil Embankment. Serving traditional Kazakh and Uzbek food, with excellent service, it is over-the-top festive nomad in style and décor with the waiting staff in traditional costumes. Kids can play in the lavish indoor playground, which Walt Disney couldn’t have done any better. The garden terrace is popular in summer, with fountains and private cabins. Business people and food lovers fly up from Almaty to savor the fantastic food. It’s known to get busy, especially on weekends. Try their chebureks (a pastry with meat inside); warm and fresh, they are spectacular. It’s a little pricey here, but well worth it. No trip to Astana is complete until you’ve dined there. Cuisine: Caucasian, Kazakh, Middle Eastern Address: 3 Bukeykhan Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 04 06 Price range: $$$

French Brasserie Capri

Located in the Radisson Hotel alongside the Yessil River, this is another one of the best restaurants in Central Asia. Cuisine is limited in scope and there is no ethnic taste to it. But if you fly in straight from Cannes, you’ll feel right at

Fusion

Another five-star location for the social set and the hard partiers, Fusion combines traditional world cuisines, and is a classy, top-level restaurant right above the Fashion night club. One unusual feature is that the restaurant sports three main rooms with a different ethnic menu in each (American Steak House, Italian Grill and Japanese), so select your preference before sitting down. The Japanese room is particularly interesting with small wooden bridges over “rivers” of small white stones, surrounded by a wall of glass. The VIP-Fusion room has extracomfortable furniture and a large plasma TV screen as well as karaoke. Free Wi-Fi. Cuisine: American, Italian, Japanese Address: 4B Mailina Street Phone: 8 (7172) 22 27 77 Price range: $$

Grilliage Restaurant

As the name indicates, this is a refuge for carnivores, not vegetarians, and it offers a wide range of reasonably priced grills in the local, European and Russian styles. Russian cuisine in grilling meat, when done well, is excellent and unique, not to be missed. Cuisine: European, Kazakh, Russian Address: 1 Zhenis Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 52 22 Price range: $$

Il Patio and Planet Sushi

This is part of a chain of ItalianJapanese restaurants, which means you get reliability and predictability. Il Patio was the first restaurant with a nice salad bar in Kazakhstan, and offers good pizza, pasta and other Italian favorites, and it has a great dessert menu. At all Il Patio locations, you can order sushi on the pizza side, or pizza on the Planet Sushi side, or mix it up. They play background Italian music in Il Patio and Japanese music in Planet Sushi. Il Patio-Planet Sushi remains one of the most popular choices for takeout and delivery across Kazakhstan. Cuisine: Pizza, Italian Address: 24 Turan Avenue (Saryarka Shopping Center) and 10 Respublika Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 79 22 03 Price range: $$

Kausar Restaurant

Well worth exploring, Kausar offers European and Kazakh food prepared according to Halal standards and very-reasonably priced. This restaurant is far from the new city centre, so be ready for a drive. Cuisine: Halal Address: 5th Microdistrict, 20/1 Phone: 8 (7172) 34 34 70 Price range: $

Kishlak

Kishlak is another super-comfortable Uzbek spot with a really interesting interior, with streams running inside and raised platforms and comfortable cushions. The waiting staff is dressed in Uzbek national garb. The lagman is popular, and comes in clay pots. This place is packed with business people for lunch, but is kind of a party spot during weekends. Cuisine: Uzbek, European Address: 22/2 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, Kruglaya Ploshad Phone: 8 (7172) 974 161 or 974 142 Hours: Daily, 12:00 pm to 2:00 am Price range: $

Korean House

A part of Restaurant Alley. There are now a lot of South Koreans working at any one time in Kazakhstan, not to mention the fact that there are a lot of people who

simply adore Korean food, so this restaurant does a healthy amount of business. It also offers a good introduction to Korean cuisine. The restaurant says its chefs have been trained by great masters from South Korea, and the service is excellent. Cuisine: Korean Address: 19/1 Sary Arka Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 40 20 99 Price range: $$

La Riviere

One of the most expensive restaurants in Astana, but worth every penny: Exclusive atmosphere, exquisite food. It has a cigar room and two VIP-halls – one seating 12 people, and another small one for 4 – while a live pianist provides atmosphere. The only stipulation for the dress code is “no sportswear”. La Riviere also has a children’s menu, a nice fireplace and you can also order Kalyan. Cuisine: French Address: 2 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue (near Quay Park) Phone: 8 (7172) 24 22 60 Price range: $$$

Line Brew

Line Brew offers the unique opportunity to enjoy your meal in a medieval castle. The eatery is easy to spot as it is the only one in Astana with a three-story castle turret which can be rented for special occasions. The restaurant also offers a great selection of steaks and its own brewed beer which can be found in local shops. Line Brew also offers billiards tables and live music daily except

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Sundays. It’s a unique dining experience in the heart of Eurasia. Cuisine: European, Caucasian Address: 20 Kenessary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 23 63 73 Price range: $$$

Maghreb

Dining at Restaurant Maghreb is like spending the evening in an Arabian palace. The upstairs is designed in the style of an Arabian castle with tents, flowing fabrics, carved furniture and live music. The first level is designed like an Easter garden and perfect for a romantic dinner. The menu features Eastern and European traditional dishes and is accompanied by a cocktail and wine menu. Cuisine: Eastern, European Address: 20/1 Beibitshilik Street Phone: 8 (7172) 53 44 66, 8777 999 20 09 Hours: Daily 12:00 noon – to last visitor Price range: $$

Medved

This is a very Russian style restaurant with rustic décor. Gazprom executives may not dine here but you could easily imagine they would. Cuisine: Russian Address: 46 Kenessary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 21 28 75 Price range: $$

Melnica “The Windmill”

Located in Restaurant Alley, Melnica offers traditional Ukrainian country home-cooked style food. Decorated like a traditional Ukrai-

nian farm house, in the summer the garden is used to grow vegetables, including tomatoes, corn, pumpkins and herbs. Tables and private dining areas are scattered about the garden among the vegetables. The maître d’ is well known as a character in the Astana restaurant world. When you leave, you get a small bag of sunflower seeds. Cuisine: Ukrainian Address: 31 Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 40 21 68 Price range: $$

Mingen

One of the oldest “new” restaurants in Astana, Jet Set opened after the city became the new capital. Reliable European cuisine served in the median price bracket. Cuisine: Korean Address: 2/1 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 24 29 04 Price range: $$

Most

If you love to cook but hate to clean, you’ll love Most Restaurant in Astana. Customers at Most have access to tableside grills where they can prepare their own meat, fish and vegetables. These dishes are then served with a fine whiskey or wine chosen from Most’s extensive drink menu. Cuisine: European Address: Saraishik Street, Turkestan Street corner “Arailym” housing estate Phone: 8 (7172) 51 40 44 Hours: 12:00 am -2:00am Price range: $$

Muller

If good German sausages and a beer are what you’re looking for then Muller is the place for you. The venue is separated into two main hall providing live jazz and serving a variety of European and German staples. A relaxed atmosphere, Muller is a great place for lazy weekend afternoons over a beer and a snack while enjoying some sporting favorites on giant TV screens. Music: wallpaper music, jazz, alive Cuisine: German & European Address: 12/1 Gabdulina Phone: 7(7172) 41 19 30, 41 19 32 Opening hours: Mon.-Fri: 11ammidnight, Sat:11am-2am Average price: $

Pivovaroff

If you’re feeling cold or blue, this is the place to come to replenish your soul with traditionally hearty German food and beer. The restaurant is decorated in a traditional German country atmosphere, but the music is livelier. On Fridays and Saturdays, you can enjoy live Jazz and Blues. On weekdays there is an all-you-can-eat buffet. Cuisine: German Address: 1 Beibitshilik Avenue Phone: 8 (7212) 41 15 62 Price: $$

Portofino

Opened in 2008, Portofino has developed a consistant reputation for offering some of Astana’s best Italian food. The menu offers quality standards such as arabiatta, primavera, Bolognese spaghetti and ravioli, as well as more exotic seafood dishes. It also has a quality wine cellar and cigar room offering a selection of cubanos. Its atmosphere is family friendly and customer service oriented. Portofino is simply a great place to enjoy quality Italian food. Cuisine: Italian, Japanese Address: 27 Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 40 20 34 Price range: $$$

Princess Turandot

Reasonably-priced and a magnet for visiting Chinese businessmen and engineers, the Princess Turandot chain is famous for offering large portions of very good Chinese food. Princess Turandot first opened

in Almaty at the Auezov Theater in 1998, and because of its high value-for-money, it is also one of the most popular take-out restaurants. Everything is prepared by skilled chefs from China. Located on the Right Bank of the Yessil River. Cuisine: Chinese Address: 40 Sary Arka Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 23 70 55 Price range: $$

Regine’s

Located across the street from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, in the same building as Jimmy’z, Regine’s caters to an older clientele. Its atmosphere is formal and conducive to business lunches and dinners. It’s the perfect place to impress your guests and negotiate a contract. This is a good place to dress up a bit for the occasion. Cuisine: French, European, Kazakh Address: Astanalyk Business Centre, Left Bank Phone: 8 (7172) 50 21 33 Price range: $$

Rixos L’Olivo Italian Restaurant

The L’Olivo Restaurant is the Rixos’ Hotel’s new signature eatery. It opened in September 2011 and offers modern Italian cuisine. It’s Milano-born chef uses classical Italian ingredients to produce modern Italian and Mediterranean dishes. Cuisine: Italian, Mediterranean Address: 7 Kunayeva Street Phone: 8 (7172) 24 50 50 Hours: 12:30pm – 22:30pm Price range: $$$

Samovar

Samovar is another place with two locations that are very popular with locals. The layout gives you a bit of privacy, as it’s divided into small sections with curtains covering the booths. It serves up home-cooked style traditional Russian food. It has quite a selection of soups, meats and blini, while Compote is always available. It’s often packed for lunch. Cuisine: Russian Traditional Address: 22/2 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, Kruglaya Ploshad, as well as 24 Kenessary Street (near the Sine Tempore Shopping Mall) Phone: 8 (7172) 974 171 Hours: Daily, 12:00 pm to 2:00 am


Phone: +7 (7172) 221-226 Hours: Daily 10 am - last customer Price range: $$$

Tre Kronor

Satti

This is good restaurant with good portions of delicious food, and they also feature special entertainment programs. The centre of the restaurant is beautifully decorated like an opera stage, and offers excellent acoustics for entertainers who sing both traditional Kazakh and popular international ballads. A host introduces the entertainment, which includes comedy and music. It serves breakfast, as well as a business lunch for 1,700 tenge, and offers a separate children’s menu. With good service, it’s a strong choice for holding special banquets. It seats 350 people, and has a VIP-hall for 30. Cuisine: Kazakh, International Address: 32 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 24 28 48 Price range: $$$

Sbarro

If you’ve eaten in one of these in any airport in the United States, you know what you’re going to get. Far from haute cuisine, but honest Italian staples, competently-cooked and reasonably priced. Sbarro is a quick place to get an inexpensive meal, and is situated in the Mega Centre shopping mall. Cuisine: Pizza and pasta Address: 1 Kurgaldzhinskoe Highway (Mega Centre) Phone: 8 (7172) 79 14 97 Price range: $

Tiflis

This traditional Georgian restaurant has been opened since 2001 and has become a local favorite. You can watch your shashlyks being prepared over hot coals or sip tasty Georgian wines in the summer on its traditionally themed terrace. Tiflis offers a quality meal in a unique environment. And every taxi driver in the city will know how to get you there. Cuisine: Georgian Address: 14 Imanov Str.

This traditional brewery/restaurant/pub serves up northern European cuisine in a romantic setting that the 19th century poets would have loved. Located in Restaurant Alley, you can’t miss it: It looks like a Scandinavian traditional house from the outside. Very expensive, but nonetheless, a popular lunch and weekend spot. Also a good choice for doing business. Cuisine: European Address: 17 Sary Arka Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 40 20 50 Price range: $$$

Vaquero

Anyone dreaming of char-broiled, Latin American style grill will not be disappointed by this authentic replication of Latino fare – simply muy bueno! Cuisine: Mexican, Italian Address: 5 Beibitshilik Street Phone: 8 (7172) 39 01 21 Price range: $$

Venice

Located in the Sine Tempore shopping mall, Venice is one of the oldest restaurants in “new” Astana. Fantastic pizza, as one might surmise from the name. Cuisine: Italian Address: 9 Kenessary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 75 39 06 Price range: $$

Zhybek Zholy

This lively establishment is a testament to Astana’s rising taste for diverse Asian cuisine. While the overall menu includes traditional Kazakh and European fare, it clearly caters to Chinese and other mainland Asian palates. You can also rack up some billiards before or after your meal, and on select nights, your ears will be treated to themed live music. All told, the place most certainly has the stuff for a full night out. Cuisine: Kazakh, European, Eastern and Chinese Address: 102 Abay Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 21 05 07, 8 (7172) 21 66 56 Hours: 11.00 am - 03.00 am Price range: $$

Tiflis A Local Georgian Favorite Would you like to experience something colorful, overwhelmingly different and undoubtedly delicious? One of Astana’s most established restaurants, Tiflis, offers all of that and more. Tiflis is named after the capital of Georgia and offers some of the best Georgian food in Astana. Opened in 2001, Tiflis features an authentic Georgian interior along with 15 types of shashlyks considered among the best in the city. The service and preparation of the shashlyks is something to behold with rows of meat sizzling on hot coals and stacked like mini-shashlyk pyramids. Even from the restaurant’s terrace, you can watch your meal being prepared. The extensive wine list and other menu items will also satisfy even the pickiest gourmand. Multiple flavors of hookah are also available. The restaurant offers a traditional Georgian street scene motif on the terrace and offers VIP rooms with different themes. For example, the top floor room offers a classic European feel, whereas the first floor gives the impression you are wandering a Georgian village accompanied by Tiflis staff in traditional clothes. There are also two fireplaces to make sure that all customers feel at home. “The combination of rocks and trees make our restaurant look like you are in a different country in the middle of Astana, and that is exactly what our customers tell us all the time,” a Tiflis manager told EdgeKz. Tiflis also places great emphasis on service. The staff and the management work hard to make all guests feel comfortable and important. Tiflis is on the higher end of the price range for Astana restaurants, but the service, quality and healthy portions make a meal at Tiflis well worth it. The restaurant also offers a 20 percent discount card to first time guests. Tiflis is located on the right bank and is easy to find. Any cab driver will know just where to take you.

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Brioche Café

T

ea has long been a cornerstone of Kazakh culture and hospitality. Whether served in small, traditional cups or large overflowing mugs, history has long had Kazakh neighbours and family chatting, debating and doing business over large, steaming kettles of tea. Today, friends still warm their hands around a cup of tea over chilly afternoons, but beverage choices have expanded and coffee is the current café king in Kazakhstan. Luckily, there are enough cafes in the country’s major cities to satisfy even the most discriminating coffee connoisseur. In Astana, the lines between café, bar, restaurant, and lounge tend to blur. You can blow the foam off your latte while listening to live traditional music at Kvartal, or bring East and West together with

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an authentic Italian espresso followed by hookah at BonBon near the Baiterek Tower. And Del Papa café and Caramel keep things family friendly with good drinks, homey atmospheres, and (at Caramel) board games. Night owls can have a snack and a game of pool at Red and White, open 24 hours a day. Almaty’s java lovers take their caffeine at 4A Coffee – a great place to meet expats – or at Lounge Bar 29, where an afternoon chat can extend into a night out when the DJ starts playing and the hard drinks start flowing. Internet addicts head for the WiFi – and desserts – at Madlen or Coffeedelia. So whether you like traditional tea or the latest coffee concoction, you’ll have no problem finding a warm cup to share with friends and chase away the autumn chill.


Bar Fontan

Caféla

Address: Kenessary Street, Sine Tempore Shopping Mall, 1st Floor, Phone: 8 (7172) 753 906 Hours: Daily, 10:00 am–10:00 pm

Address: 9 Dostyk Street, Keruen and Sary Arka shopping centers, Astana International Airport Phone: 8 (7172) 79 55 73 Hours: Mon – Fri, 9:00 am – 1:00 am, Sat – Sun, 9:00 am – 2:00 am

Bon Bon

Café Marzipan

A lot of people in Kazakhstan go to shopping malls just to have something to eat because of the wide selection usually present. For a small café in the middle of a shopping mall, Bar Fontan is surprisingly popular whatever time of the day you visit. Often packed with people, it is especially known for its delicious pizzas, but also has a full-Russian-style menu, nice salads, fresh juices, alcoholic drinks and some good cakes. Its coffee is pretty basic – Americano regular and cappuccino.

Located near the Baiterek Tower, Bon Bon is well-known as a relatively inexpensive chain coffee house with properly-made Italian-style coffees. This is a great place to go after visiting Baiterek and the singing gardens. Kalyan (hookahs) are available, but only in the smoking section. The main room seats forty; and it has a 20-seat VIP hall. Address: Khan shatyr mall Phone: 8 (7172) 57 09 75 Hours: 10:00 pm - 1:00 am Sat – Sun: 10:00 - 2:00

Brioche Café

This unique one-year-old café is known for offering a mix of French and Italian desserts. It also features two main halls, one designed in a French motif and the other in an Italian style. The café also offers hookah and lounge music in the evenings. It’s a great place for cocktails and unique desserts. Address: 28 Zhenis Ave. Phone: +7 (7172) 520 963 Hours: 9 am-midnight Price range: $$

Bukhara

This café offers a wide selection of European, Kazakh, Eastern, Caucasian and Asian dishes. It also has live music and shows. It comes complete with 25, 15, and 10-seat VIP halls available. Address: 7, 3rd Microdistrict Phones: 8 (7172) 35 19 32 8 (7172) 36 57 32 Hours: 12:00 pm - 2:00 am

Caféla has some of the most unique drinks in Astana. So if you’re looking for a break from the summer heat, head over and try Caféla’s unique Cucumber Lemonade. All of Caféla’s drinks are made with fresh freshly squeezed ingredients with no artificial additives. The bartenders are even known for letting customers think up their own unique cocktails. Caféla is truly unique among Astana’s café scene.

Café Marzipan was Astana’s first café to open on the left bank of the Yessil River. It is popular for its light lunch menu, which includes different kinds of sandwiches. Relatively large and comfortable, government workers often frequent it at night. It also offers refreshing freshly-squeezed juices. Free Wi-Fi is available. Address: 1 Magistralnii Street (by the Singing Fountains Square) Phone: 8 701 551 4897 Hours: Daily, 10am–2am

Café Star

Some people would consider Café Star more of a restaurant than a café. But we will go with the name and call it a café, although a rather fancy one. The atmosphere here is high class, with photos of movie stars on the walls. While pricey for a café, the outstanding food is worth the price. A perfect choice for inviting guests to a pleasant evening with good food and wine. Address: 13 Dostyk Street (Nursaya-2 Residential complex) Phone: 8 (7172) 79 54 12 Hours: 9:00 am until the last visitor leaves

Caramel

Caramel Café opened in 2008 and has since become known as a friendly, neighborhood coffee shop. Staff lay out board games such as backgammon and chess for customers to share and the clientele ranges from young

Brioche Café Desserts of Italy and France Good desserts are a treat no matter where they’re from. But if you happen to be a fan of French or Italian sweets and pastries, the Brioche café has what you’re looking for. Brioche café offers a huge variety of Italian and French cakes, pies, sweets and sugary confections. They also branch out internationally with offerings ranging from tiramisu and apple pie to strudels to Russian sweet cakes and American cheese cake. “We opened in July 2011 and since then we have established ourselves pretty well around here and some customers refer to our café as a lounge bar, because we have lounge music in the evenings, hookah and a quiet, upscale atmosphere,” the café’s administrator, known as Kanat, told Edgekz. Brioche’s interior includes two main halls – one French and one Italian. Both offer upscale and relaxed atmospheres. Fancy chandeliers, puffy cushions and stylish tables add to Brioche’s status as a lounge-café rather than just a pastries shop. Located at the intersection of Zhangeldin Street and Zhenis Avenue – about 10-minutes taxi ride from the city center —Brioche is easy to recognize because of its large clear sign reading “FRENCH.” So if you have a multi-national sweet tooth and a taste for cocktails, Brioche will satisfy your international cravings.

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com 73


people escaping the bustle of their homes to international business people catching up on work. The coffee is imported and tasty and the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming. Address: 10 A Imanov Street Phone: +7 (7172) 537 388 Hours: Daily 9:30 am-midnight, Fri and Sat 10 am - 1 am Price range: $

Chili peppers

If you like your coffee high-tech and Western, head to Chili Peppers cafe. This well established cafe on the left bank was opened in September of 2008 and has

been thriving since with young people, locals and expats looking for a taste of the West. As one Chili Peppers employee put it, “No local atmosphere here! This is as Western frenetic as they come!” And to make sure their expat visitors feel welcome, the waiters speak English and have been trained to meet the often demanding nature of its Western guests. Address: 33 Sarayshik Street Phone: 8 (7172) 50 37 73 Hours: 12:00pm – 1:00am

Coffe Nova

This new coffee house just opened

in the heart of downtown Astana. It is not too large, and has a real intimate feel to it. Even though it is a relatively new addition, already you can find quite a few locals and guests spending the day talking or working on laptop computers. Free Wi-Fi is provided. Cuisine: European Address: 15 Sagynak Street Phone: 8 (7172) 79 52 55, 8 (7172) 56 69 34 Hours: 09:00 am – 12:00 am Price range: $

Coral Reef Café

The beauty of the marine world is on display at this uniquely

decorated café. The interior was handcrafted by artists from northern Kazakhstan using clay and other materials. Children and adults alike will have tremendous fun eating and admiring the intricate designs on its walls. Address: 171 Abay Street Phone: 8 (7172) 21 83 93 Hours: 12:00 pm – 12:00 am

Corso

Located on the right bank of the river not far from Tiflis, the Corso coffee house bills itself as “A small part of Switzerland in Astana.” Comfortable and diminutive, it’s better for good conversation on a

Caramel A Friendly Neighborhood Coffee Shop Many factors go into making a good neighborhood. You need quality grocery stores, a park or two, a family-friendly restaurant and, of course, a comfortable coffee shop. And since opening back in 2008, Caramel cafe has become that neighborhood gathering place. “Our customers come here to drink coffee; some come here to spend time with their families. We have card games, board games like chess, backgammon and others. Students come here to get away from the bustle of their homes to study and read. And we have business people coming all the time,” Caramel’s Administrator Alexander Kim told EdgeKz. The café is in the style of a European coffee house with relaxing music playing in the background, richly textured seating, luxurious chandeliers and conversation-friendly sofas. But Caramel isn’t just about atmosphere. They take great pride in the quality of their product. “Most of our coffee is imported. Eighty-five percent is Arabica and 15 percent is Robusta,” said Kim. The menu also offers light snacks, salads, sandwiches, soups and desserts at affordable prices. You’ll also find an extensive breakfast menu with omelets,

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sausages and fruits. The wine list is small, but quality and the drink list – alcohol and nonalcoholic – is extensive. Caramel’s specialty drink is a cappuccino served in a large mug with “Caramel” written on top with chocolate syrup. It’s big and tasty. Caramel is located in Astana’s old town center just about a couple of minutes’ walk from well-known Respublika Avenue. It’s a neighborhood coffee house that welcomes everyone. “We have menus in Russian, English and Kazakh. We are always happy to see our customers no matter where they come from,” said Kim.


date or lunch, rather than with a big crowd. Corso is at its busiest during lunchtime and at night. It gets a decent crowd drinking cocktails and beer, and it can feel a bit more like a bar rather than café. Its cappuccinos are really good, and so are the cookies and cakes. It also serves a nice breakfast. Free Wi-Fi is available.

not high tech or fast paced. It’s just a place to relax and enjoy a warm coffee and good food with friends. Address: 59 Abaya Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 21 22 22 Hours: 11:00am – 12:00am Sat-Sun: 11:00am – 1:00am Website: http://delpapa.kz/

Address: 12 Imanov Street (between Respublika Avenue and Valikhanov Street) Phone: 8 (7172) 53 73 00, 22 12 49 Hours: 9:00 am – 1:00 am

Demalys Complex

Daisy Cafe

Address: Central Park of Astana Phone: 8 (7172) 32 80 29 Hours: 11:00 am – 2:00 am

Daisy Cafe sits in the heart of Astana’s business district so it is a great place to hold out-of-office meetings or to get some work done away from colleagues. But its comfortable interior and location near major tourist attractions also make it perfect for an after sight-seeing coffee and dessert. Address: 17 Kabanbai Batyra Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 79 30 20 Hours: 9:00am – to the last visitor

Del papa

The Del Papa cafe is new in Astana and worth checking out. The cafe opened August 2011 and has been receiving rave reviews. Del Papa’s interior greets you with the warmth of a neighbourhood Italian joint with its checked red-and-white table clothes and bistro-style seating. This cafe caters to families, children and couples. It even has toys out and ready for children to play with. It’s

This café offers European and Eastern cuisine, including shashlyk (shish kebabs). This is a well-known place for hosting conferences and exhibitions.

Éclair

Éclair is a new franchise, with branches in Almaty and Astana. It is the city’s first real French bakery. This is another spot with a real nice, elegant atmosphere (like a real French bakery), and you will probably find it ideal for treating someone to a business lunch. You can choose from a wide variety of cakes and desserts similar in texture and taste to what you can find in Europe. They also have good, simple sandwiches. Sandwich lovers will be happy to find the bread is nice and fresh as well as soft. The bread alone is a reason to come here, if you like it baked-fresh and piping hot. This is also a good place for takeouts, including coffee to go. Some of the things you probably want to try are their muffins, pies, cookies,

croissants, rolls, cheesecakes, and tarts. This company is sociallyconscious, and they deliver free pastries each Thursday and Saturday to poor and elderly older people in Astana. Cuisine: French Address: 14 Kunayeva Street. Phone: 8 (7172) 50 83 85, 8 (7172) 50 83 81 Hours: 08:00 am - 12:00 am Price range: $ Website: www:éclair.kz

Address: 24, 3rd Microdistrict Phones: 8 (7172) 34 11 25 8 (7172) 21 44 90 Hours: 12:00 pm – 12:00 am Fri – Sat 12:00 – 2:00 am

Indiana

This is a nice café with largescreen plasma TVs and beer on tap. Sometimes they hold entertaining shows to accompany the tasty European and American food on the menu. There is no dress code, and you will see people in jeans, etc., capturing the down-to-earth nature of the residents of the middle-American state Indiana the place is named after. Offering a business lunch for 1,000 tenge, it’s also a good place for take-outs as well. Check for their special promotions and get a regulars discount cards. Address: 22 Sary Arka Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 34 63 Hours: 12:00 pm – 1:00 am

Kvartal (Quarter)

live music (mostly traditional) to entertain its patrons. The main hall is spacious, seating up to 70 people, and VIP rooms are available. Offering European-style cuisine, you can get a decent business lunch here during weekdays for a low 500 tenge. It also has secure parking.

This inexpensive, friendly café has

La Belle

Located in Old Town Astana, La Belle is usually crowded with young people. It has two main rooms with plasma TVs, and patrons can watch soccer and other sports. In the summer, they open their terrace area, which is complete with tents and comfortable pillows where customers can sit back, smoke flavored tobacco from a hookah and sip some drinks. Address: 12 Irchenko Street Phone: 8 (7172) 23 06 00 Hours: 12:00 pm - 2:00 am

Library Café

Description: This is a great little café where you can get good American-style coffee, tasty desserts and cocktails. Then you are welcome to kick back and read

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with hard metal tables you might see at many pizza parlors in big U.S. cities. They also have good breakfasts, and their croissants are a big hit. Address: 17 Imanov Street (between Respublika Avenue and Valikhanov Street) Phone: 8 (7172) 20 09 65 Hours: Daily, 8:00 am–2:00 am

Redford

from their big selection of fiction and classics in three languages, including English. Wi- Fi is available. (See sidebar) Address: 61/1 Kenessary Street Phones: 8 (7172) 20 08 01 8 (702) 6822877 Hours: Tue – Fri 1:00 pm – 9:00 pm Sat 10:00 am – 7:00 pm Sun 2:00 pm – 7:00 pm (Closed on Mondays)

Madlen

The Madlen company opened its first pastry shop 15 years ago and continues to be a leader in Kazakhstan’s emerging coffee culture. The company has 16 coffeehouses across Kazakhstan and its Astana outlet is intimate and inviting. Small tables for two and plush sofas ideal for private conversation as well as the smell of cinnamon, croissants and fresh brewed coffee greet guests the moment they walk through the door. Address: 12/1 Tauelsyzdyk Street Phone: 8 (7172) 68 96 79 Hours: 10:00 am – 2:00 am Website: www.madlen.kz

Mr. Coffee

This coffee house is well-known in the city for using only 100% organically grown Arabica beans, while the cakes and cookies are reputed to be the best in Astana. Patrons can also order sushi and request VIP rooms. It is right next to MEGA Centre, across the street from the Duman Hotel.

day. You can pick and choose from a variety of European, Eastern and Russian cuisine. Address: 34 12th Street, Diplomat Complex Phone: 8 (7172) 50 35 67 Hours: 10:00 am – 2:00 am Fri – Sun 11:00 am – 3:00 am

Oasis

While Oasis offers a nice fixed menu with very good European cuisine, the management also tries to keep its offerings fresh. They often run specials, so whenever you decide to visit, it’s possible you can try something you’ve never had before, or get a nice discount on one of your favorite items. Address: 7 Respublika Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 43 92 40 Hours: 11:00 am – 1:00 am

Pizza City

This American-style pizza joint is one of the most popular pizza spots in Astana. It has a steady stream of loyal and stylish clientele, partially due to its huge pizzas and its famous pasta. Lots of people come here during late hours for a bite. It has an interesting design with a dark red interior, and comfortable sofas mixed

Address: 15 Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 90 10 33 Hours: 10:00 am – last visitor

News Café

A diverse menu and accommodating feel makes this a great place to grab a meal any time of

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This moderately-priced café seats up to 45 people in its two main rooms, one smoking, one nonsmoking. You usually find people dressed relatively casual here. It has a VIP room with 20 seats, and a separate nonsmoking room. The traditional fare includes European cuisine and shish kebabs, with both shashlyk and other kebabs, and features a 1,000 tenge business lunch. They also offer draft beers and pies to order. Not only is Redford good for take-outs, they also deliver. Free Wi-Fi is available. Address: 43 Kenessary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 82 36 Hours: 12:00 pm – 1:00 am

Shambala

Shambala has an Indian/Tibetan design, and was recently expanded to three floors with a dance floor, live music, and 30-seat VIP hall. Moderately priced, the cuisine is a mix of Kazakh, European and Tibetan. It serves a good business lunch for 900 tenge, and stays open

24-hours a day. Address: 30 Republic Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 33 32 25 The “Rafe Coffee & Food”

Coffee house

This is a very friendly, intimate cafe where you can really relax and forget about work and worry. Popular with Astana residents and visitors alike, Italian designers created the interior, and all materials were imported from Italy. You can enjoy some of the most delicately and artfully prepared Italian food you will find in Kazakhstan. If you are a pasta lover, this is the place for you. The servings are not huge, but they are delicious. In the Italian tradition, they treat each dish like a work of art. You can’t go wrong with the ravioli, the tortellini, or the beautifully done risotto. The lamb chops, the red fish, and the veal are also wonderful. The pizza is one of the best in the country and the calzone is the most authentic we have found. The chefs use all fresh and natural ingredients, with no preservatives, meaning salads are made the way they are supposed to be made – with green and ultra-crisp lettuce, really flavorful plum tomatoes and real parmesan. Their coffee is also authentic and rich. A large banquet hall is available, and free Wi-Fi is provided. Cuisine: Italian, Halal Turkish (but with a big emphasis on Italian). Rafe serves breakfast from 9am to 12pm Address: 14 Tauelsizdik Street Phone: 8 (7172) 24 49 00 Hours: 08:00 am -12:00 pm Price range: $


T

he nightlife scene is thriving in Kazakhstan’s major cities. Almaty’s mega clubs and international DJs have been firmly established for more than a decade. And the hot young clubs and the beautiful young people that populate them are gaining ground in Astana. Lesser known, however, are Kazakhstan’s many smaller bars and pubs. These are the places that don’t care how you look and always have a cold beer at the ready. Astana has no shortage of places to sip a pint, watch a soccer match or just chat with friends. Chelsea’s English Pub is a trusted go-to bar and the Cigar Bar Radisson offers the unique opportunity to enjoy a stogie in an atmosphere designed like a British Library. Live music is also something that differentiates bars from nightclubs and great live bands can be seen at Astana’s

Rixos Irish Pub and Guns ‘n’ Roses. In Almaty, Irish brews, billiards, and darts can be found at Guinness Pub and Mad Murphy’s. Dublin Pub is also an option for those that miss the Emerald Isle. If tiny, local, and beer-focused is what you’re after, head to little Shtab, Almaty’s beer heaven. Jazz fans will want to check out Members Bar and Soho, where live jazz and other kinds of music are on tap nightly. And no discussion of bars in Kazakhstan is complete without a mention of karaoke. The sing-it-yourself past time is a ubiquitous part of both the bar and nightclub scenes in Kazakhstan. So if you’re not a big fan of velvet ropes, then head to some of Kazakhstan’s lesser known night spots where the beer is cold and no one cares where you bought your shirt.

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8 Drops music club

8 Drops is a karaoke club with two locations. The song list includes Russian, Kazakh, American and European numbers. 8 Drops holds competitions between tables. Those at the tables sing as teams, and the crowd votes for their favorite. The host eggs people on to jump in. Address: 29 Abai Street and 6/4 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 46 70 18 Hours: 8:00 pm – 4:00 am

Albion

This billiards bar has 12-foot pool tables or, if you’re in the mood for a challenge, Russian billiards. Address: 6 Korgalzhinsky Highway Phone: 8 (7172) 79 69 90, 8 (7172) 79 69 91 Hours: 12:00 pm to last visitor

Balkan

This recently opened venue, directly above the Che Guevera bar, offers rural Balkan cuisine. Since it’s new, only time will tell

how Astana takes to it. But with its comfort and good food, we predict it will be popular in no time. Address: 33A Respublika Avenue Phone: 8 (701) 517 38 86 Hours: 12:00 pm – 2:00 am

Bar Boss

Bar Boss is a sparkling new gathering spot in the Ak Kaiyn Hotel for Astana’s young, ambitious and upwardly mobile. It is beautifully designed with interesting colors and subdued lighting, many mirrors and comfortable furniture. Boss has three sections, each in a different dominant color. The crowd includes a lot of young local professionals, but expats are showing up as well. And you’ll want to dress casual but well. You can get away with jeans if you do it with style. Bar Boss DJs play a hip mix of modern dance, lounge and trance. Address: 8/2 Ryskulbekov Street in the Ak Kaiyn Hotel Phone: 8 (7172) 29 00 90 Hours: Daily 4:00 pm – 4:00 am

Beermac Bar (Khan Shatyr)

This newly opened, modern bar is a nice place to stop for a beer or snack while shopping in Astana’s largest mall. The menu includes a range of pastries and cookies. Address: 37 Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 73-47-68 (Khan Shatyr main number) Hours: 10:00 am- 11:00 pm

Boulevard Grill Bar

This popular grill’s menu has European, Japanese and Caucasus meals. The Boulevard is across the street from Cafestar in the Singing Fountains alley near Baiterek Tower. It has 25 types of shashlyk (shish kebabs) and steaks. Customers can watch the cooks using an open fire, which not only adds to the taste, but also to the atmosphere. The bar has two levels with large plasma TVs and quiet background music. Address: 14 Kunayev Street (Nursaya Residential complex) Phone: 8 (7172) 24 45 31, 8 (7172) 24 45 32 Hours: 10:00 am – 1:00 am

Chelsea English Pub

Chelsea offers European and Chinese cuisine. Patrons can watch live sports on one of its large TVs. Its VIP room is terrific. Address: 7 Respublika Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 21 77 27 Hours: 12:00 pm to last visitor

Cigar Bar-Radisson Astana

This bar has comfortable leather chairs that give it the feel of a traditional British study. It also has numerous TVs. There are all types of cigars, including Cubans, along with great coffee and service. Address: 4 Sary Arka Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 99 00 00 Hours: 8:00 am – 4:00 am

Cinzano Bar

Cinzano Bar offers something for everyone. This locals hangout near the Yessil River and within walking distance to the Radisson Hotel is part pub and part restaurant. On weekends the place pulses with the sounds of a DJ mixing house and lounge music, and during the

Pivnitsa A Place for Great Czech Beer Astana has lots of Irish bars where you can turn back a pint and watch Manchester United take on their latest rivals. What you may be surprised to find, however, is a bar reminiscent of one of Europe’s most beautiful cities, Prague. Pivnitsa bar is just that place. Pivnitsa is Russian for – loosely translated – “a place to have a beer.” And this “Pivnitsa” doesn’t disappoint. In terms of its Czech charm, the entrance is a long hallway that reminds you of a covered street in a Czech village. The walls are lined with old bricks and the doors are thick wood and heavy metal. The chairs and benches are imported from the Czech Republic and metallic medieval chandeliers hang from a ceiling that looks like it came from an 18th century inn. But the real attraction of Pivnitsa is as a place to have a beer. The smell of brewed beer captivates as soon as you enter. The restaurant’s beer is brewed in two large brewing bowls in the midst of the patrons so you know what you are drinking. And tall, four-liter glass jugs and empty barrels sit beside each table patiently waiting for customers. The bar’s signature beer is called Kelly and in 2011, this Czech brew won a bronze medal at a beer festival in its home country. Pivnitsa also provides tasty cuisine to go along with its award winning beer. The chef, who lived in Germany for

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seven years, adds creative twists to traditional European cuisine and offers some of the best sausages in Astana. The bar also offers a few traditional Kazakh dishes and tasty desserts. The wine list is extensive and ranges from $100 to a whopping $7,000 per bottle. On Fridays and Saturdays you can also enjoy live Jazz from 10 p.m. to midnight. Pivnitsa is located on the right bank and is within walking distance of the Radisson Hotel. For a unique experience in Astana and a quality Czech brew head to Pivnitsa – a place to have a beer.


week Astana’s business class come here to share drinks after work. But Cinzano is also a top restaurant with a large sushi menu and international menu. Address: 5 Zhenis Street Phone: 8 (7172) 39 07 89, 8 (7172) 39 08 79 Hours: 4:00pm – 4:00am

Comfort Hotel Astana Bar

This bar is popular partly because Kazakh celebrities often stay at the hotel. Patrons linger, hoping to run into one of them. The hotel is elegant, with a feel of old Europe. Address: 60 Kosmonatov Street Phones: 8 (7172) 24 44 44 8 (7172) 24 54 44 Hours: Around the clock Website: www.comforthotel.kz

Contrabass

This beer bar offers great shashlyk and live music. Address: 25/3a Ablai Khan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 56 15 01 Hours: Mon – Tue 5:00 pm – 4:00 am Fri-Sat 5:00 pm – 5:00 am

Fair Play Bar

This is the bar to go to if you’re a diehard sports fan and don’t want to miss your home team or any Olympic action. The bar offers six large televisions and two wall screens to make sure everyone has a good view. It’s styled like an English soccer pub and is a great place whether you’re a sports fanatic or just enjoying the exciting atmosphere. Address: Astana, Altynsaryna 5 Phone: 8 (7172) 38 44 16 Hours: from 13:00 to 4:00

Graff Lounge Bar

Graff is a relaxed lounge conducive to making connections and discussing deals. Part of the Astana Park Hotel, Graff is quiet and discreet. Patrons can order from the big menu of the Chalet Restaurant. The venue includes a karaoke bar, VIP zones, saunas and billiards. It has no face control, but you’ll need to dress business or business casual. Graff has a more mature crowd than many bars – upper 20s and older. Its DJs play a mix of contemporary music. Address: 2 Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 55 63 33, 8 777 11534 25 Hours: Lounge bar on Friday and Saturday Daily 7:00 pm - 4:00 am

Hotel and saunas – around the clock Website: http://www.astana-park.kz/

Guns n’ Roses

Sky Bar Great Party, Amazing View

Address: 11 Samal Microdistrict Phone: 8 (7172) 59 18 09 Hours: 11:00 am – 3:00 am

Astana’s skyline can be breathtaking from any angle. But it’s really special if you know where to go to find the best view. One of the best places in town to take in Kazakhstan’s capital city skyline is Sky Bar. Located atop the Asia Park Mall on the left bank, Sky Bar opened in December 2009 and has hosted thousands of bargoers who appreciate its night life and unique panoramic views through floor-to-ceiling glass walls. It looks out over the iconic Baiterek Tower, the Central Mosque, the Khan Shatyr Mall and Astana’s other unique structures. Big couches and low mood lighting complete the upscale lounge experience. Sky Bar has an extensive cocktail list, a wine list and multiple flavors of hookah. The menu offers European and Japanese cuisine at affordable prices. And on Fridays and Saturdays live techno music plays from 9 pm until 2 am. “We are a pre-party zone with relaxing lounge music in a high-tech style,” Sky Bar Director Dmitry Gulov told EdgeKz. “It is perfect for people who want to either dine here or have fun for dates or business meetings. Whatever it is, we are ready to accommodate them.” The Sky Bar is also referred to locally as the airport lounge. It is only about 15 minutes away from the airport and provides the airport’s flight schedules. You can also book your airplane tickets from there to avoid the airport rush. So if you want one of the best places to take in the city skyline and to have a good time doing it, head to Sky Bar.

Guns n’ Roses is an up-market Irish pub serving draft beer and ale. The house band, Silently Screaming, gets the crowd moving. Both expatriates and local professionals dig the music. You can spot any Guns n’ Roses in Kazakhstan easily because all have red British Telecom boxes outside their main entrances. Guns n’ Roses recently decided to add an on-location butcher. So its steaks should be some of the best in Astana. Guns is a bit pricey. But you can find some of the pub grub you enjoy in the West at an affordable price.

Han Bel

This is the place for people who love Karaoke. Han Bel sits right on the Yessil River and was opened in April 2011 specifically as a Karaoke bar and restaurant. It features eight differently themed rooms were you can get your song on, including an Arabic room, a Korean room and a “glamour” room. If you like Karaoke, this is the place to go. Address: 1 Sary Arka Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 51 79 79 / 8 (7172) 51 80 13 Hours: Daily noon – 4:00 am

Jelsomino Karaoke

This is one of, if not the, most luxurious Karaoke bars in Astana. Whether you love Karaoke or hate it, you’ll feel comfortable in Jelsomino’s ultra-chic lounge. Plush red, U-shaped booths offer intimate seating and liberally placed flat screens make sure you won’t miss your friends’ high notes. It has a small bar away from the singing action and a VIP room. But be prepared. Reservations are required on the weekends and a reserved table will run you $500 minimum per night. But if you like your off-key music mixed with luxury, it’s worth it. Address: 26 Imanova Street, “Rakhat” Residential Complex Phone: 8 701 216 38 88 Hours: Daily 6:00pm – 6:00am

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com 79


Kazbar

This place used to be a nightclub, but was converted to a bar because neighbors complained about the noise. It quickly became popular in its new role. One attraction is its reasonably-priced steaks. Its restaurant is at street level, with the bar on top. Address: 18 Mirzoyan Street Phone: 8 (7172) 92 88 49 Hours: 8:00 pm – 4:30 am (Tue-Sat) Restaurant - 11:00 am – 2:00 am

Kega Sports Bar

This is a large venue full of bigscreen TVs showing sports from across the globe. Popular among young people, it is linked to the Kega beer brand. Address: 11/1 Kuyshi Dina Street Phone: 8 (7172) 36 89 99 Hours: Mon- Tue 4:00 pm – 2:00 am Fri – Sat 4:00 pm – 4:00 am Sun 4:00 pm – 2:00 am

Krushovitsa

You can enjoy live music and various types of shows at the Krushovitsa, as well as Czech food with your beer. Address: 8 Abai Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 40 72 52 Hours: 12:00 pm – 1:00 am

Little Goats

This Americana style bar will please fans of America’s famed Coyote Ugly bars. Like Coyote Ugly, this bar has beautiful “little goats” female bartenders who dance, drink and chat with customers. Customers are also encouraged to dance on the bar and enter dance contests with the beautiful Little Goats bartenders. This is the place for a high-energy good time.

Mindal

Mindal is a good place for meetings. You can do business at the same time you’re relaxing. Or you can celebrate a special event. Address: 25/1 Kuishi Dina Street Phone: 8 (7172) 41 08 11 Hours: Mon – Tue 2:00 pm – 3:00 am Fri – Sun 2:00 pm – 5:00 am

Orioke

In addition to having a name rhyming with karaoke, this venue is known for its huge song menu, ranging from Kazakh folk to rap. Have fun! Address: 9 Aliyev Street Phones: 8 (7172) 34 20 59, 8 (7172) 34 22 59 Hours: Mon – Tue 5:00 pm – 7 pm Fri – Sun 5:00 pm – 3:00 am

Prime

This is one of the newest and biggest lounges in Astana. Its classy VIP room includes karaoke and a plasma TV. It also has a cigar room, a dance floor and a water pipe lounge. This is a midrangepriced bar, not terribly expensive, but not cheap, either. Address: 6 Kurgalzhinskiy Highway Phone: 8 (7172) 79 69 95, 8 (702) 338 21 13 Hours: Fri 6.00 pm – 4.00 am Sat 6:00 pm – 4:00 am

Pivnitsa

Lots of cities have Irish bars, but if you want to taste a bit of the Czech Republic, head to Pivnitsa. Not only is this bar designed like an old Czech village, but it serves its own award-winning beer brewed on site. It’s a great place to take a break from the usual expat-style bars. Address: 4 Sary Arka Ave. Phone: +7 (7172) 990-500 Hours: Noon - 2 am

Q Night Bar

The Q Night Bar follows a Kazakhstan tradition of some bars becoming nightclubs as evening wears on. It can be a lot of fun to watch the scene evolving from subdued to people dancing like crazy. Q Night caters to the young, with loud house music and flashing lights. Address: 10 Sagynak Street (Nomad Residential Complex) Phone: 8 (7172) 66 14 14 Hours: 6:00 pm – 3:00 am

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Rixos Irish Bar

Rixos’ Irish Bar is spacious and has a pool table and live music. Some of Kazakhstan’s hottest bands play there. In addition to songs that everyone’s heard of, the groups perform their own originals. The Rixos is Astana’s premium hotel, so it shouldn’t be surprising that the menu is a bit expensive. There are affordable items however. The bottled beers are cheaper than draft. Depending on what brand you choose, vodka and cognac can be reasonable. The Irish Bar is a hangout for those who have attended important events in Astana, such as the Astana Energy Forum. It often is the location of a post-event cocktail party. Many event-goers end up migrating to the Rixos after other parties. This means it can be a great place to make contacts. Don’t be surprised if you see well-known faces. The food is excellent. Snacks at the cocktail parties are tastier and the presentations better than at other venues that offer this service.

Staut bar

Staut Beer Bar is a great place to catch live music. On Thursdays, Staut offers an “Americano” band and on Sundays features a jazzoriented Saxophone band. But like any good pub, Staut is also equipped to show the latest football matches on its numerous TVs and offers tasty spicy sausages and grilled steaks. The bar attracts a lot of students and is largely an under 30 crowd. But anyone who enjoys cold beer, tasty food and good company will enjoy Staut. Address: 4 Altynsaryna Phone: 8 (7172) 97 81 37/38 Hours: Around the clock Website: www.staut.kz

Stolichny Pub

Stolichny offers a wide range of ethnic food, including Italian, Russian, Uygur, Kazakh and Eastern. Address: 47 Kenessary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 21 91 21 Hours: 12:00 pm – 1:00 am Sun 6:00 pm – 1:00 am

Address: 7 Kunayev Street Phone: 8 (7172) 24 50 50 Hours: Around the clock

Triumph pub

Sky Bar

Address: 11 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue (residential complex Triumph Astana) Phone: 8 (7172) 68 91 04 Hours: 12:00 pm – 2:00 am

Astana’s skyline is known internationally for its unique buildings designed by the world’s greatest architects. And with the vast Eurasian steppe just beyond its borders, it’s a sight to behold. One of the best places to take in that view is Sky Bar. You can enjoy this three-year-old bar’s extensive cocktail menu and techno music while taking in the full view of Astana through floor-to-ceiling windows. Address: Kabanbai Batyr Avenue (Asia Park shopping center) Phone: 8 (7172) 97 87 70 Hours: 12:00 pm – 1:00 am

Sligo Irish pub

This is a two-level pub with an Irish and continental European menu, and Wi-Fi. You can catch live music here on Fridays and Saturdays. Address: 45 Abai Avenue (close to the Ramada Hotel) Phone: 8 (7172) 39 01 82 Hours: Tuesday – Thursday: 1:00 pm – 3:00 am Friday-Saturday: 1:00 pm – 4:00 am Sunday – Monday: 1:00 pm – 2:00 am

A nice, quiet bar with background music. It has a VIP room and Wi-Fi.

Why Not? Bar

Why Not? is a stylish lounge bar with a slick, minimalist interior where comfortable couches coax patrons into staying late into the evening. Many local and expat business people frequent Why Not?, so it’s a good a place to make contacts and have a good time. The bar is in the same building as the well-known Zhibek Zholy restaurant and its extensive menu includes selections from Zhibek Zholy. The bar is popular with a professional, mid-20s crowd and up. It has DJs pumping out lounge and house. The second floor is a smoking bar filled with the sweet smells of tobacco. Address: 102 Abai Avenue (on the corner with Valikhanov Street) Phone: 8 (7172) 21 05 07, 8 (7172) 21 66 56 Hours: Daily 12:00 pm - 03:00 am daily


Kazakhstan The Future Is Wide Open

Since its independence just 20 years ago, Kazakhstan has grown to be the success story of Central Asia. A country of awesome steppes, grand canyons and majestic mountains, Kazakhstan is becoming known as much for its progress, as it is for its wide open spaces. As the powerhouse of Central Asia, Kazakhstan’s economy is thriving thanks to industries such as oil, clean energy, minerals, agriculture, finance and more. In Kazakhstan, the ninth largest country in the world, ethnic and religious harmony rule the land – a land once marred by nuclear disaster. Now a leader in nuclear responsibility, Kazakhstan has hosted many highly-productive international summits on the issue in its glittering new capital city, Astana.

A nation reborn, Kazakhstan is a place of open hearts and open minds. It’s a country open for business and investment. It’s a place where big ideas have room to grow – and the future is wide open.

The Nazarbayev Center 2, Respublika Avenue Astana, Kazakhstan 010000


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f your favorite time of day is after dark, you’ve come to the right place—Almaty and Astana stay up late. Nightclubs in Kazakhstan’s major cities don’t start closing until around four a.m., some stay open until dawn and sashaying through the doors before 11:30 p.m. is way too early. The hours between midnight and six a.m. are the most happening time of the day for Kazakhstan’s new breed of young and beautiful. The country’s nightclubs are also the place to get noticed for dressing in the latest fashions. Astana and Almaty’s nightclubs may be filled with go-go dancers wearing next to nothing, but that doesn’t go for the patrons. If you’re going to go out here, you want to look your best. If you don’t, you might not get past the dress codes and “face control” – also known as pretty people only – prac-

ticed by the higher-end clubs. But don’t worry too much. If you’re obviously a visitor to the city, the clubs will often give you a pass. In Astana, you can head out into the night at the Art Gallery Nightclub, which has a bowling alley in addition to a restaurant, bar and dance floor. The friendly El Karnak, in addition to its dance floor, has a lounge, Karaoke and a space for live Rock ‘n’ Roll every weekend. And intimate Azhur targets a crowd looking for chandeliers, luxury and theme parties. But while Astana’s nightlife scene is just starting to emerge, Almaty has been partying for a long time. There you can find everything from internationally renowned DJs, to 1980s retro to Latin-style clubs. So put on your best shirt and head out into the night. Just don’t show up too early.

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Azhur

This club caters to the luxury niche, starting with its unique and stately interior design – an amalgamation of earth-tone, czarist décor with traditional nightclub neon and flash. An array of soft, spacious couches and chairs you’d want to sleep in flank the hardwood dance floor, and swooning draperies dress the padded and papered walls. Elegant chandeliers are suspended throughout, including above a ritzy, illuminated bar that features an exhaustive selection of spirits. That said, this is definitely a place you can dance and party at. The club often hosts varied theme parties, bringing in some of the top DJ talent from Russian and European, and also features full billiards facilities. Small but always popular, the club has a link with the Portofino Restaurant and is located in the same building. As you would expect given the description, don’t show up looking a slouch: Azhur is strict on dress code and face control. Cuisine: Italian, Japanese Address: 27 Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 40 20 34 Hours: 12:00 pm to last visitor

Chocolate

Chocolate is known locally as being home to Astana’s most beautiful party goers and practices strict dress code and face control. But once inside, it’s a great time. The city’s hottest DJs keep the smallish dance floor packed and there are plenty of intimate seating areas to make new friends. If you want to see and be seen in Astana, go to Chocolate. Address: 2 Saryarka Avenue Phone: +7 (701) 550 00 17 Hours: Friday and Saturday 11 pm - 5 am Website: www.goodproject.kz

EL Karnak

El Karnak is not just a nightclub. It’s also a Karaoke lounge, live music joint and good all around place to share food and drinks with friends. In fact, the new owner prefers the name, “Entertainment Complex El Karnak.” The owner bought the complex a year and a half ago and renovated nearly the entire multi-level building. Now revelers can spend time in the Egyptian

inspired nightclub, sing Karaoke in front of a state-of-the-art screen or just chill out in the top floor lounge. No matter what your preference, El Karnak will have a vibe you enjoy. Address: 52 Imanova Street Phone: 8 (7172) 37 62 24, 8 (7172) 37 62 24 Hours: Daily 8:00pm – 8:00am

Fashion

Fashion is one of Astana’s top nightclubs. With its big and bold dance floor, the club caters to the under-30 crowd via a number of rotating, big-name DJs. High-profile international DJs mostly come from Russia, with a few from Western Europe. The club is also known for throwing inventive theme parties, and also hosts fashion shows and parties with well-choreographed stage shows. The club is connected with Fusion, one of the top restaurants in Astana (see our review in restaurant listings), so you can eat at Fusion, and party your way into the night downstairs at Fashion – but it will definitely cost you. Fashion is considered an expensive club, so those on a budget beware. It has its own food menu, but portions are on the small side, and pricey. Cuisine: Italian, American, Japanese Address: 4 Mailin Street Phone: 8 (7172) 22 27 77 Hours: Fri. & Sat. 10:00 pm to last visitor Website: www.fusion.com.kz

Imperial Nightclub

This nightclub was renovated in 2007 and given a Romanesque flair with an interior that is now upscale and exotic, but comfortable. Visitors are given four nightlife options. They can head to the club’s main dance floor, visit its karaoke room, enjoy quiet conversation in the intimately lit lounge or hang out in imperials front room smoking hookah on puffy couches. This is a comfortable, laid-back nightclub which offers a little something for everyone. Cuisine: European Address: 38 Kenesary Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 69 32; 8 (7172) 32 21 21 Hours: Daily 7:00am-5:00pm Website: www.imperial-hit.kz

8 Kapel Something for Everyone Choosing a nightclub is a big commitment. You dress a certain way, you arrange for a taxi, meet your friends and sometimes pay a cover charge. And if it’s not what you expected, that’s a lot of effort blown. But one place you can be sure to find something for everyone is Astana’s 8 Kapel Nightclub. “We did not stick to any certain style when designing 8 Kapel (which in Russian means “eight drops”). We just wanted to make sure that everyone has something they like in our place, so our interior is decorated with different themes,” 8 Kapel Supervisor Galiya Kasymova told EdgeKz. The club, which is centrally located on the left bank across from the famous UFO-looking Astana Circus building, ensures there is something for everyone with a variety of themes and music. Some parts of the club are decorated in an East Asian theme with Japanese characters and fans, while other parts have a more modern, high-tech feel. 8 Kapel also has its own house DJs who play a variety of music with heavy rotations of popular techno and some rock music. The club, like many in Astana, also offers Karaoke and holds special theme parties on holidays. Having both a dance floor and Karaoke helps the club ensure everyone has a good time. If you don’t like listening to tipsy people sing 90s hits off key, you can always go work up a sweat on the dance floor. But if you really do like to sing, 8 Kapel also provides vocal lessons, an audio and video studio, production services and even an event agency. So if you want to try to make it big, they’ll gladly help you drop your first single. And if all that singing and dancing makes you hungry, 8 Kapel offers a national and European menu, extensive cocktails and a moderately priced wine list. The club also adheres to a dress code and practices face control – pretty people first. So dress well. And there is a cover charge of about $13. But with 8 Kapel, once you make the commitment to go, you know you’ll have a good time.

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Chocolate The Place to See and be Seen Astana’s nightlife is thriving. International DJs, cutting edge global trends, the hottest fashions and some of the most beautiful people in Eurasia fill the capital’s nights. In just the 14 years of Astana’s modern life, a unique club culture has built up. And sweetest among its offerings is the Chocolate Nightclub. Chocolate is able to boast that it attracts likely the most beautiful young people in Astana as the club is known for its strict dress code and face control. In other words, gorgeous women get in first, hip-looking men second and everyone else waits behind the velvet rope. Opened in 2007, beside the Yessil River and next to the Radisson Hotel, Chocolate has come to be considered the most upscale and glamorous nightclub in the city. The interior is high tech, but simple with two large bars to ensure you don’t have to wait for drinks. The atmosphere is a party. Beautiful go-go dancers perform throughout the club and the intimatesized dance floor is always packed and pulsing to the club’s DJs’ remixes. Chocolate’s DJs are so good you can also hear their remixes on local radio station Salem Radio 102.3. Surrounding the dance floor is comfortable seating where you can get closer to a new friend or smoke the club’s 15 flavors of hookah. Chocolate also offers two large VIP rooms and small, intimate seating areas scattered throughout the club. This is also a club where you’ll find lots of regulars and Astana’s hipsters who come to see and be seen. So if you’ve got some hot clothes, some beautiful friends and you want to see what Astana’s social scene is all about, then make your way past the velvet rope to Chocolate.

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Oscar

8 kapel

Jimmy’z

Jimmy’z, located on the 12th floor of the Astanalyk building across from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, is part of an international showcase that includes 20 capital cities. The place oozes exclusivity when you walk through the door, offering a truly elegant, high-class atmosphere that is not as loud as many clubs. With its brand of interior and existential class, Jimmy’z attracts an affluent and slightly older clientele, often including celebrities and politicians. The club features a cigar bar, karaoke lounge and dance hall, all supported by a phenomenal set of wine, liquor and fine cuisine. It used to be members-only, but is now open to the public. We need not warn you to dress for the place.

Oscar’s nightclub might be located in the luxury Duman Hotel, but this is no hotel lounge bar. This new addition to the Astana nightclub scene attracts the capital’s young and beautiful with hot music and packed dance floors. Its value is in its music and its high-energy vibe. The club, which opened in February 2011, is spread out over two levels and three VIP rooms. The main dance floor is surrounded by comfortable couches where you can watch some of the hottest go-go dancers in the city do their thing. There’s also plenty of room to dance for the rest of us with two bar areas to ensure quick service. The club’s house DJs usually mix club, house and techno music. Club Oscar is open on weekends until 5 a.m.

Cuisine: European snacks Address: 2a Kurgalzhinsk highway Table reserve by phone number: 8 (7172) 79 15 67 Website: http://www.nc-oscar.kz E-mail: info@nc-oscar.kz

other clubs, it’s a placed to spread out, relax and enjoy the night.

White Hall

8 Kapel

When the owner of White Hall decided to open an upscale nightclub in Astana he determined it had to have one thing: light. One of the first things you notice when you walk into White Hall is that it is not some dark, smoke-filled club packed with sweaty bodies. It is light and airy with big white comfortable couches and plenty of room to move around. It also has a large central bar so service is quick. Sure it has DJs and go-go dancers and is filled with Astana’s pretty people. But more than a lot of

Address: 12 Mirzoyana Street Phone: 8 (7172) 46 46 16, 8 (7018) 71 81 99 Hours: Thurs-Sat 8 pm – 7 am

8 Kapel opened in 2008 and is centrally located on the left bank across from the UFO-looking Astana Circus building. The club is designed to appeal to a variety of tastes with both Karaoke and a dance floor and DJ. The DJs mix mainly techno and rock. 8 Kapel also offers national and European food and a moderately priced wine list. Address: 6/4 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phone: +7 (7172) 467 018 Hours: Daily 9 am - 3 am (Until 4 am holidays)

Cuisine: European, Kazakh, French Address: Astanalyk Business centre Phone: 8 (7172) 50 20 33 8 (7172) 50 21 33 Hours: Around the clock

Kazbar

If you want an upscale evening of the best food, good times and beautiful people, this is the place to go. Kazbar is spread over two levels. The first level offers one of Astana’s best steakhouses with 16 styles of steak. The second level offers a high-end nightclub with a strict dress code and discerning face control. It’s there that you’ll find some of the city’s best music and prettiest people. Cuisine: European Address: 18 Mirzoyana Street Phone: 8 (7172) 92 88 49, 8 701 828 36 40 Hours: Restaurant: Daily 12:00am-2:00am Lounge bar: Thur-Sun: 8:00pm-3:00am

Chocolate

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Dj

RideR Part of a new Generation of Music By Alex LEE

As Kazakhstan’s first independent generation comes of age, many of them are choosing to express their new freedom through music. And the country’s DJ scene is hot and growing. DJs in Astana, for example, “grow like mushrooms after a rain,” one of the city’s rising stars, DJ RideR, told Edgekz. But RideR, who also goes by only his first name Yury, has dedicated nearly half his life to spinning music and continues to rise through the country’s DJ ranks. At the age of 13, he got his first cassette tape which had club tracks – including the ultra-popular at that time Speed Garage. The music was an inspiration and he started producing his own tracks. Later, he started spinning at school and student parties. Then in 2000, he landed a contract with one of the local night clubs in Kokshetau, where he was born and raised. He is now 27 years old and has traveled most of his home country thanks to his developing DJ career. “I play different styles. My favorite is Progressive House. I like it because it can be melodic and soft, as well as very dynamic. Also Tech House, Breaks, just because it is minimal techno for its specific sound and, of course, Commercial House. Not to say that I am crazy about (Commercial House), but the crowd loves it,” DJ RideR told Edgekz. RideR says that he doesn’t have any DJ idols, but there are artists he admires such as Andrea Bertollini, Carl Cox, Q.U.A.K.E., and local Kazakh DJs DJ Serega, DJ Man and DJ Timofey. He also admires mixers in general as the musicians who introduce and

create new styles of music. “Throughout my twelve-year career, DJs have done a great deal of work to introduce new waves of music so the crowd would know that Pop and R ‘n’ B are not the only kinds of music out there,” he said. One of the best places to hear Kazakh – and international – DJs introduce new tracks each year is IBIZA, an annual festival that takes place in Kapchagai in the Freedom Resort near Almaty. Kazakh DJs, says RideR, are also on a quest to break through internationally and share local sounds with the world. RideR mentioned two Astana DJs – DJ Kopernik and DJ Baur – who now spin in Moscow. For now, you can see DJ RideR at the “Little Goats” bar in Astana. The bar is on the first floor of the restaurant complex Khiva. There you’ll find the neon lights flashing, the crowd pulsing and all ears tuned to the work of the DJ. Except, RideR says, for him, making music isn’t work. He’s simply sharing the moment with the crowd. “The best feeling for a DJ is without a doubt the reaction from the crowd. If people are dancing and having a great time, that is the ultimate reward for a DJ!”

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Privnitsa

A

s a nation of ancient cultures, many visitors to Kazakhstan focus on seeing historic, artistic or cultural objects. And those certainly exist, from the 4th or 5th century BC Golden Warrior to the intricate ornamentation of centuries old mausoleums in Turkestan and Taraz. But Kazakhstan is a dynamic place and its arts are evolving. So while you may want to visit the lovely State Museum of National Musical Instruments or similar historic sites, there are also plenty of live, cutting-edge venues to enjoy. Music, dance, drama, and film are the threads uniting the many cultures of this country. In Astana, traditional Kazakh musical performances and visiting dance companies take turns on the stage of the Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall, a big, blue blossoming flower of a building that is a work of art in itself. The Kulyash

Baiseitova National Theater of Opera and Ballet also produces its own traditional performances while hosting international opera and dance companies. Almaty may be the old capital, but it sits on the leading edge of performance arts in the country. The Deutsches Theater Almaty is a great place to see new, innovative drama in German and Russian. The award-winning Art & Shock Theatre isn’t subtle about its aims, staging challenging performances from improvisation to pantomime, as well as traditional plays. Most performances in Kazakhstan will, of course, be in Kazakh or Russian. So call ahead to find out about other language options. Or just enjoy the universally understood language of the art of music and movement.

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American Corners and Cultural Centres in Kazakhstan

The long-awaited “American Corner” has been launched at the National Academic Library in Astana, and it’s a gold mine for anyone, of any age, who is interested in practicing English and learning about the United States. You’ll find English-language collections of American fiction, and reference books on U.S. government, history, and culture. Visitors also can learn more via Internet access, audio recordings, and American films and documentaries. For English teachers, extensive materials and English-teaching curriculums are on hand. The centre also hosts myriad events and clubs for children and adults. Among them are a discussion & debate club, music club, reading club, movie viewing club, and Kids’ Hour. Also featured are local and U.S. guest lecturers dedicated to certain events. Regular Saturday events are: “Movie-nights” at 17.00; “Discussion Club” at 15.00; and “Reading club” at 16.00. Open to the public. Address: The National Academic Library (near Baiterek) Phone: 8(7172) 44 62 54 Hours: Tuesday-Friday 11:00 am – 08:00 pm; Saturday & Sunday 10:00 am – 06:00 pm; closed on Mondays and the last Friday of every month. Website: www.amcorners.kz

Alzhir Memorial Museum of Victims of Political Repressions and Totalitarianism

On May the 31st, 2007, the Alzhir Museum opened at the location

of the former Akmolinsky camp of “Wives of the Traitors of the Motherland.” It memorializes the tragic events of Soviet rule, including the dark times of the 1930s – 1950s. The year 2007 was chosen as the museum’s opening date for its meaning to Kazakhstan and former Soviet countries. It was the 90th anniversary of the October Revolution and the 70th anniversary of the beginnings of the “mass political terror.” During this period 100,000 innocent civilians lost their lives. In Kazakhstan, every May 31st is a day of remembrance for the victims. The memorial complex is a moving experience with many exhibits. English language tours and translations are provided. Address: Kurgalzhin Highway, 37 km from Astana in village Malinovka Phone: 8 (7172) 49 94 55, 8 (7172) 54 26 69 Hours: 10:00 am – 06:00 pm Website: www.alzhir.ucoz.kz Alzhir memorial museum at the reconstruction until the new year.

Atameken: A Walking Map of Kazakhstan

Don’t have time to travel through all of Kazakhstan? Then stroll through the “Atameken,” a 1.7 hectare, outdoor map you can walk through that essentially is an outdoor museum feting the country’s history, culture and development. See miniaturizations of every Kazakh city, including famous buildings, cultural icons, markets, and mountains – even the famous Cosmodrome in Baikonur. Beautifully landscaped, this unique “ethnopark” reportedly is one of only 20 such exhibitions in the world. Address: 6 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue

Phone: 8 (7172) 24 04 97, 8 (7172) 24 52 72 Hours: 8:00 am – 10:00 pm Opened from the May till November Atameken: a walking map of Kazakhstan works during the summer time.

Has Sanat Gallery

The Has Sanat Gallery has works of well known artists and emerging talent. The core of its collection is paintings by local Kazakh artists, including A. Sadykhanov, A. Akanayev and E. Tolepbay. The gallery also hosts traveling exhibits of work from Kazakhstan and abroad. Address: 47 Abai Avenue and 14 Kunaev Street (Nursaya-1 residential complex) Phone: 8 (7172) 39 12 68, 8 (7172) 50 84 65 Website: www.hassanat.kz

Kulanshi Modern Art Center Description: The Kulanshi Center has a collection that includes European masters such as Albrecht Durer, Rembrandt, Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso.

Address: 57 Tauelsizdik Street, Palace of Peace and Harmony (6th floor) Phone: 8 (7172) 74 47 17 Hours: Mon. – Fri. : 10:00 am - 6:00 pm Sat.: 11:00 am - 5:00 pm

Modern Art Gallery

This gallery of art, located in the Palace of Peace and Harmony, is the place to see the work of modern Kazakh painters. It is divided into several galleries of different colors. The main gallery is yellow and has 100 paintings and 19 sculptures. Here you can see works of modern Kazakh painters, such as K. V. Mullashev, Akanaev and Begalin. Address: 57 Tauelsizdik Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 70 03 83

Hours: 10:00 am – 6:00 pm (Closed Mondays)

Palace of Peace and Harmony

The Palace of Peace and Harmony is a great place to see amazing architecture and modern art. The building itself was designed by renowned architect Norman Foster and offers great views of the city. It also houses a souring three-level concert hall, a modern art gallery and is home to rotating exhibitions. It’s worth a visit. Address: 57 Tauelsizdik Ave. Phone: +7 (7172) 74 47 77 www.astana-piramida.kz

Shezhyre Gallery

This gallery exhibits the work of local and foreign artists. Address: 57 Tauelsizdik Street, Palace of Peace and Harmony Phone: 8 (7172) 74 47 27

The Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall

The Kazakhstan Concert Hall has two main auditoriums, one for film and another for the performing arts, such as concerts and ballet performances. The film theater can seat up to 3500 people. The concert hall has a wide orchestra pit, and back stage for theater, ballet and modern or classical concerts. Address: 10/1 Orynbor Street Phones: 8 (7172) 70 53 02

The Museum of the First President of the Republic of Kazakhstan

This museum is located in the president’s former residence and offers a unique insight into the birth of a nation and its progress through time. The exhibits reveal the most important stages in the

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formation of an independent Kazakhstan and talks about the life and work of President Nursultan Nazarbayev. The interiors are intact and the museum collection of over 60,000 items includes souvenirs, books, archival manuscripts, printed materials, film and documentary photographs, works of fine and decorative arts, weapons, personal belongings and documents offered by the president. Address: 11 Beibitshilik Street Phones: 8 (7172) 75 12 14/92

The Museum of Modern Art in Astana

Originally named the Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum of Modern Art was established in 1980. It started with a collection of 500 works of art, which has grown over the last 30 years to 3,000 pieces. Currently, the collection includes works by artists from Kazakhstan, Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Uzbekistan, Georgia, Armenia, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Tajikistan and other CIS countries. Address: 3 Respublika Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 44 02 61 Website: www.msi-astana.kz

The National Theater of Opera and Ballet Named after Kulyash Baiseitova

Located near the railway station, this theater is an example late 19th Century architecture. It has gone through a major renovation, and now holds large and small concert halls, a restaurant and practice rooms. The theater focuses on producing a repertoire of Kazakh musical and cultural performances. World-class talent has been invited to perform classic opera classics, including “The Wedding of Figaro,” “Chio-chiosan,” “La Traviata” and “Eugene Onegin” among others. The National Theater of Opera and Ballet has received recognition for its quality productions in Kazakhstan and abroad. The concert hall is small, but has good acoustics and seats approximately 300 people.

Pyramid of Peace and Harmony Art, Harmony and Religion Astana is lauded for its one-of-a-kind architecture and attracting such names as Norman Foster make the Kazakh capital one of the world’s most unique cities. Many of its buildings are considered art in and of themselves. One of the standouts among these is the Normal Foster-designed Pyramid, known as the Palace of Peace and Harmony. Located on the main square across from the Palace of Independence and beside the Yessil River, the pyramid opened in early 2006. It is 62 meters tall and offers beautiful views of the left bank and other unique structures. One of the eight-story pyramid’s main arts attractions other than the structure itself, is its three-level Opera Hall with a capacity of 1,325 spectators. The concert hall is accented by rich, dark red colours and textures. The Pyramid’s hall, above the Opera Hall, is constructed as a symbolic national yurt with a shanyrak at the top symbolizing the shining sun breaking through the yurt roof. A shanyrak is the central, upper-most portion of a traditional yurt that allows ventilation into the round, tent-like structures. The shanyrak was adopted in 1992 as the central part of the national emblem of Kazakhstan. Other arts outlets in the structure include the Museum of Modern Art where you can see the works of modern Kazakh painters and sculptures. The museum is divided into several galleries defined by color, including the main “yellow” gallery, which features more than 100 paintings and 19 sculptures. Here you can see works by modern Kazakh artists, such as K. V. Mullashev. The top of the pyramid is called Cradle Hall. The capacity is only 100 people, but its views of the city and steppe are astonishing. The hall’s windows have a nearly transparent blue color emblazoned with 130 white doves symbolizing the 130 nationalities that live in Kazakhstan. The Palace of Peace and Harmony was built specifically to host a religious forum held every three years and attended by the world’s top religious leaders. This year’s forum attracted 87 religious leaders from 40 countries. Among other events held at the pyramid are the Astana Action Film Festival, which attracts Hollywood stars such as Steven Seagal and Dolph Lundgren, as well as French star Vincent Cassel, and various exhibitions, such as the National Costumes Gallery. The pyramid is one of the city’s must-see attractions both for the structure itself and the art it contains.

Address: 10 Akzhaiyk Street Phones: 8 (7172) 39 27 60/61 Website: www.astana-anshlag.kz

The Palace of Independence The Palace of Independence is

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used for official state functions, including forums, meetings and conventions. It includes the Gallery of applied art and ethnography, archeology and anthropology, a modern art Gallery, the Museum of City History of Astana. It also has two theaters; one is a 4D Cinema and the other a theater in 360 degrees. The Palace also includes an electronic library and a model gallery. Address: 52 Manas Street Phones: 8 (7172) 70 03 80/95/89 Hours: 10:00 am – 6:00 pm (Closed Mondays) Website: http://tauelsizdik.kz

The Nazarbayev Center

The Nazarbayev Center is conveniently located at the edge of the Right Bank and is easily accessible from the Left Bank. Its museum boasts 143,000 artifacts related to Kazakh archeology, ethnography, history, culture and arts. The “Kazakh Ethnography” collection captures the traditional lifestyles of the Kazakh people and gives visitors a closer understanding of Kazakhstan’s past and present. History comes alive in displays such as a Kazakh yurt, furniture, tableware, clothing, jewelry and many more items. The most striking and valuable exhibit is a bride’s headpiece (saukele) made in the beginning of the 19th century. One of the most interesting collections is of 135 musical instruments on loan from B.A. Sarybaev. The center also has a library with a collection of more than 700,000 items stored in various media, and a collection of rare books dated between the 17th and the 20th centuries.

upcoming events August 27-29 International Conference “From Nuclear Test Ban to a Nuclear Weapons Free World” Astana Conference Events August 27: International leaders and parliamentarians arrive into Astana August 28: Delegates travel to the former Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test Site to commemorate the “The UN International Day Against Nuclear Testing” and the 21st anniversary of the closing of the Semipalatinsk Nuclear Test Site August 29: Conference at the Palace of Independence in Astana President Nursultan Nazarbayev and other leaders address issues such as nuclear disarmament, the Comprehensive Test Ban Treaty and nuclear weapons free zones September 8 Alma-Ata My First Love Music Festival Almaty Address: International Ski Jumping Complex (Remizosky Gorge) Phone: +7 (701) 715-7585 Hours: Starts at 7 pm www.zakazbiletov.kz

Address: 2 Respublika Avenue Phones: 8 (7172) 44 32 33/76

Phones: 8 (7172) 32 40 53 8 (7172) 32 05 70, 8 (7172) 32 24 49

The Russian Drama Theater named after Maxim Gorky

The Saken Seifullin Museum

Although Astana is a young capital, it is also old enough to have a theater founded in 1899. Today it is one of the largest and most popular drama theaters, not only in Astana, but in all of Central Asia. It puts on an amazing number of performances for adults and children, including classic works of Shakespeare, Chekhov, Gogol, Mrozhek and others. Address: 11 Jeltoksan Street

Saken Seifullin was a pioneer of modern Kazakh literature, poet and writer, and national activist. He penned controversial literature calling for greater independence of Kazakhs from Soviet and Russian power, and paid for it with his life. Deemed a “threat to the society” and a “nationalist,” Seifullin was executed in Almaty, in 1939. Today he is considered one of the most influential Kazakh thinkers of the

September 11-12 Jubilee CICA Congress with Kazakh President Nursultan Nazarbayev and the 4th Meeting of the CICA Foreign Ministers Astana Address: Call for event locations Phone: +7 (7172) 720-518 Hours: Call for event times September 12 Kazakhstan - Russia 9th Regional Cooperation Forum Pavlodar Address: Call for event locations Phone: +7 (7172) 720-518 Hours: Call for event times September 15-16 First World Circus Art Festival Almaty Address: 50 Abai Str. The Almaty State Circus Phone: +7(727) 394-4903, +7(727) 394-4882 Hours: Call for event times October 2-3 7th Eurasian KazEnergy Forum Astana Address: Independence Palace, 52 Tauelsyzdyk Phone: +7 (7172) 700-380 Hours: Call for event times October 2-5 KIOGE 2012 20th Kazakh International Exhibition (Gas and Oil Industry Conference) Almaty 21st century, a major contributor to Kazakh culture and literature, and a martyr for freedom. The fascinating museum memorializes his works, but also serves as a research center. Opened in 1988, it’s now called one of the “historical and spiritual centres of Kazakhstan.” Address: 20A Ayezov Street Phone: 8 (7172)323563 Fax: 8 (7172) 32 84 67 Hours: 10am-6pm

The Zhastar Palace

This is a popular place for leisure activities – a concentration of the social and entertaining life of the

Address: Atakent Exhibition Center, 42 Timiryazev Str. Phone: +7 (727) 258-2535 Hours: Call for event times October 11-13 Children - The Flowers of Life (4th Kazakh Specialized Exhibition of Maternity and Childhood)

Astana Address: Korme Exhibition Complex, 3 Dostyk Ave. Phone: +7 (7172) 524-321 Hours: 9 am-6 pm October 11-13 Astana Fall 2012 13th Kazakh International Specialized Exhibition - Fashion Industry Astana Address: Korme Exhibition Complex, 3 Dostyk Ave. Phone: +7 (7172) 524-321 Hours: 9 am -6 pm October 25-27 Orteke 2nd International Doll Theatre Festival Almaty Address: Gabit Musrepov Theatre, 38 Abylai, Khan Ave. Phone: +7 (7172) 271-4237 Hours: Call for event times

city – and the building is a historical and architectural monument. The four-story structure building was designed to meld into one, such large complexes as an auditorium and gymnasium. After the reconstruction in 2001, the facades were redecorated with modern materials. Visually stunning, presently more than 1,000 children and adolescents are engaged in creative work here. Address: 34 Republic Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 32 80 91

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FitNation

K

azakhstan’s major cities offer more than enough state-ofthe-art fitness centers with internationally experienced trainers, the latest machines and healthy dietary concoctions. But you’ll find those in any major city in the world. As long as you’re in Kazakhstan, you might as well try what’s been keeping Kazakhs fit and healthy for centuries – Banya. Banya (a Russian word for sauna) generally refers to types of steam baths and saunas. And one can quibble over whether one banya is Finnish or Turkish or uses wet or dry steam. But generally, banyas are spa-like environments where you go with friends to spend an afternoon relaxing in steam rooms and hot and cold pools. Opening the skin’s pores by gently slapping your banya partner’s back with birch branches is also common. Many banyas

also serve alcohol, so they are great places to build business relationships and share a little local gossip. These unique places are among the best in Kazakhstan for getting a sense of local customs. The 35-year-old Arasan Banya in Almaty and the Keremet Banya in Astana are both great places try out banya culture. But if you still want to go the health club route while in Kazakhstan, you’ve got plenty of outlets to choose from. Some centers specialise in particular activities, such as Astana’s Daulet Tennis Complex, while other’s offer a broad array of fitness opportunities, such as Almaty’s FitCurves. Astana also offers great jogging and biking opportunities along its Yessil River through the heart of the city. So no matter what your fitness preference, you’ll be able to stay healthy in Kazakhstan.

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Daulet

Hours: Around the clock URL: http://astana-park.kz

The Daulet centre is the premier tennis complex in Kazakhstan. The training complex includes locker rooms, showers and three cafes, as well as a small hotel and sauna facilities. It boasts three stadium courts, which can seat 583, 1,201 and 2,686 spectators for tournaments. Six training courts, three of clay and three hard, are scheduled to open in December 2011.

Esil Fitness Center

Type: Sports complex and tennis courts

Address: 6/3 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 44-56-24 Hours: 8:00 am-11:00 pm

Emir

Type: Banya

This banya is located in the Astana Park hotel. Services include a pool, a Jacuzzi and showers. The facilities also include a diningroom and a billiards room. Address: 2 Sary Arka Avenue (Left Bank) Phone: 8 (7172) 55 63 33

Type: Fitness centre

This unique health club is located above one of Astana’s most popular bars, Guns n’ Roses. But if you have the will power to bypass the draught beer and live music, you’ll find a well-equipped fitness center. Esil offers a pool, multiple styles of sauna, two terraces overlooking the Yessil River and modern workout machines. It also features a juice bar and internationally trained fitness instructors. Day passes are available. Address: 8 Beibitshilik Street Phone: 8 (7172) 59 19 01 Website: http://www.grandparkesil.kz/

Fitnation Network Type: Fitness centre

The Fitnation club in Astana includes a gym, swimming pool, sparring room and studios for martial arts and fitness classes. Group classes include dancing,

cycling, yoga and aerobics, among others. Finnish, Russian and Turkish saunas are available, and the spa offers massage, a sun deck and the services of a manicurist and cosmetician. Fitness programs for children are also available. Address: 4/1 Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 23 05 95 Hours: 7:00 am-11:00 pm URL: www.fitnation.kz

FitNation Premium

FitNation Premium is one of two FitNation clubs in Astana and is the place for those looking for the ultimate health club experience. FitNation Premium’s memberships start at a steep $300 per month, but the club specializes in individualized quality attention and the latest in fitness equipment. If you want the best health club experience money can buy, then head to FitNation Premium. Address: Karaotkel, 159th Drive Unit # 2 Phone: +7 (7172) 79 69 99 Hours: Weekdays 7 am - 11 pm, weekends 9 am - 10 pm www.fitnation.kz

Fitness first

Type: Fitness centre

Fitness First is one of the most modern fitness facilities in the country and is divided into various zones of training such as cardiac health, power training, and personal training. The cardio zone is among the most extensive with a running track, elliptical trainers and step machines.

Address: Kabanbai Batyra Street, Asia Park mall, 2 floor Phone: 8 (7172) 97 87 77 Hours: 09:00am – 11:00pm Website: http://fitnessfirst.kz/clubs/ astana/

Highvill Cultural and Community Center Type: Fitness centre

The Highvill Cultural and Community Center includes a sports complex with a gym, running track and free weights, as well as a variety of exercise machines. Instructors are available for individual training, and clients can participate in a variety of exercise classes. The Center provides towels and slippers, and there are locker rooms and showers. Address: 1, 23-21 Street Phone: 8 (7172) 51 32 69 Hours: 9:00 am – 10:00 pm

Zhety Kazyna

Type: Sauna complex

This sauna complex offers three styles of saunas: Coral, Egyptian and Japanese. They also offer massage services, a spa and a VIP cottage. Address: 18 Bogenbai Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 23 65 09 Hours: Around the clock Website: http://7kazyna.kz

Keremet

Type: Banya complex

This is the largest banya complex in Astana. It has separate areas for men and women with their own pools. The complex includes a Finnish sauna, massage rooms

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and a hydro-massage area. For those seeking more privacy, there are seven VIP saunas with their own pools. For other types of relaxation, the complex also offers a café with European and Asian dishes, a billiards room and a gym. Address: 19 Turan Avenue (Left Bank, opposite Mega Centre) Phones: 8 (7172) 79 18 00, 8 (7172) 79 18 03 Hours: 10:00 am-10:00 pm

Life Fitness Astana Type: Fitness centre

Life Fitness offers all the services of a well equipped fitness centre, including a gym with a variety of exercise machines, a lap pool, personal trainers, group classes and a children’s programme. For post-workout relaxation, the centre also offers two Russian baths with bathhouse services and an attendant masseur. Address: 2 Turkestan Street Phone: 8 (7172) 79 73 73 Hours: Weekdays 7:00 am-12:00 am Weekends 9:00 am-12:00 am

Website: www.life-fitness.

Republican Bicycle Track Sary-Arka Type: Fitness / Aquatic

The Republican Bicycle Track Sary-Arka is one of Astana’s most unique buildings. It’s shaped like a bicycle helmet and includes a state-of-the-art cycling track. It has hosted world cup level events and has been praised by the cycling community. But it’s also a fitness center open to the public with two pools, cardio training center and state of the art muscle training equipment. The complex also offers Turkish and Finnish saunas. Day passes are $15 dollars and three-months passes cost $136 dollars. Address: 5 Kabanbay Batyr Ave., kilometer 5. Phone: 8 (7172) 707 179 Hours: Tues-Sun 9:00 am – 11:00 pm

Rixos President Type: Banya/Spa

The Rixos is one of the finest hotels in Astana and its spa and fitness facilities follow suit. A large and luxurious swimming pool helps loosen the muscles and a state of the art sauna will help you achieve ultimate relaxation. The Rixos also offers the full comple-

ment of spa services including facials, massage and other body treatments. And if you prefer more vigorous exercise, the Rixos also offers the latest in fitness equipment. Address: 7 B Kunayev Street Phone: 8 (717) 241 38 38 Hours: 7am – midnight”

Sharoban

Type: Entertainment centre

Sharoban is a largescale, modern entertainment center. It is listed here because it includes 20 bowling lanes. It also has a small café, a billiards room and karaoke club for corporate parties. Address: 38 Seifullin Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 67 70, 8 (7172)32 67 68 Hours: 3:00 pm – 3:00 am

Soluxe Hotel Astana Spa center

Type: Fitness center and spa

The Soluxe is one of the few places in the city where a professional Chinese masseuse applies his trade. The hotel is also planning to add stone massage services. Your massage can then be followed by the ultimate relaxation of the spa’s Finnish and traditional steam saunas. The Soluxe also offers one of the city’s largest indoor hotel pools. Address: 27 Syganak, “Beijing Soluxe Hotel Astana” Phone: 8 (7172) 70 15 15 Hours: 10:00am – 10:00 pm Website: http://soluxe-astana.kz/ru

World Class

Type: Fitness centre and spa

World Class is the most high-class fitness centre in Astana. It is the number one network of clubs out of Russia, in the premium/luxury market. It is the only Russian company to be considered one of the top 25 clubs in the world. It has a fully equipped gym, swimming pool and spa. It offers group fitness classes, including yoga and pilates, as well as personal training. The centre also has a café.

FitNation Premium The Ultimate in Health Club Fitness If you’re looking for one-of-a-kind clothing, or a unique dining experience, corporate chain outlets aren’t the way to go. But if you want cutting edge fitness equipment, state-of-the-art facilities and highly trained fitness experts, it’s best to go with the big boys. Astana’s FitNation Premium offers all of the above and more. FitNation Premium is one of three FitNation outlets in Kazakhstan, including two in Astana. FitNation’s other Astana club, located along Turan Avenue, is considered the city’s standard outlet, whereas FitNation Premium is for those looking for the next level in attention and facilities. “We are a Premium club, so instead of selling our membership to corporate clients… at the Premium club we concentrate on quality and not quantity, and focus on our clients’ needs,” FitNation Premium Senior Sales Manager Shahnoza Djalilova told EdgeKz. “Our instructors undergo training in Moscow to make sure that our VIP clients get professional and quality work out sessions.” From the moment you walk in the doors, you can see FitNation Premium isn’t an ordinary health club. Its stylish reception area makes you feel like you’ve stepped onto a space ship with arched doorways, round hanging lamps, pinkish colored walls and reflective ceilings. The training rooms are decorated in the same style. In addition to cuttingedge machines and training areas, the health club also offers a boxing ring, a rock climbing wall and a children’s playground. FitNation doesn’t pretend it’s the cheapest in town. Monthly memberships start at a steep $300. But you get what you pay for and the club offers 55 individual programs with a flexible payment discount system. “Everybody is different, and needs a personal approach. Our instructors and staff are here to make sure that everybody at our club stays healthy and fit,” said Djalilova.

Address: 1 Pobeda Avenue (Next to the Radisson Hotel) Phone: 8 (7172) 39 13 69, 8 (701) 222 90 90 Hours: Weekdays: 7:00 am - 12:00 am Weekends 9:00 am - 12:00 am URL: www.worldclass.kz

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) september 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com 93

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Diplomat Hotel

K

azakhstan has been hosting intrepid explorers and cutting-edge business travelers for a long time. And over the last decade particularly, accommodations for those travelers have expanded greatly beyond just small mom-and-pop inns to include international luxury brands, cool boutique hotels and tried-and-true hotel chains. Luxury accommodations are particularly abundant in Astana. The Beijing Palace Soluxe Hotel may be the plushest option in town with a luxury spa center and a 23rd-floor revolving restaurant, the country’s first, providing views of the city and the steppe beyond. For a western flavor, there’s the Manhattan Astana Hotel, which aims to recreate the charms and service standards of 1950s New York City, plus plenty of other international luxury options offering the comforts of home, whatever country that might be.

And the boutique Jelsomino Hotel’s 23 unique rooms have a hip, artistic, individual flavor. The Rixos Almaty, like its sister in Astana, provides classic five-star accommodations in the old capital and fitness buffs staying in Almaty should check out the Olympica Hotel, a complex which includes two hotels, pools, tennis courts, saunas, gyms, and shooting and riding facilities. And just outside Almaty, you’ll find the Tau House Hotel, part of the Tau Dastarkhan Mountain Resort in the Ili-Alatau National Park, where guests can enjoy the region’s famous mountains and forests. Travelers have been wandering and exploring Kazakhstan and the Eurasian steppe for centuries. And that tradition continues with some of the most up-to-date and luxurious accommodations in the region.

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Abay Hotel H H H

Everest Hotel H H H

Akku Hotel H H H

Grand Park Esil Hotel H H H H

Altyn Dala Hotel H H H H

Imperia G Hotel H H H H

Address: 33,Republic Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 33 01 00 Email: 330414@mail.ru

Address: 22,Ryskulova Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 41 99 E-mail: akky@inbox.ru

Address: 6 Bigeldinova Street Phone: 8(7172) 32 33 11, 8(7172) 32 77 49 E-mail: altyn_dala@mail.ru

Astana Art Hotel H H H H

Address: 7/1, Furmanova Street Phone: 8 (7172) 34 74 75 Email: hotel@everest.kz

Address: 8 Beibitshilik Street Phone: 8 (7172) 59 19 01 Website: http://www.grandparkesil.kz/

Address: 63 Abay Street Phone: 8 (7172) 40 55 01 Website: www.imperia-g.kz

Jelsomino Hotel H H H H H

Address: 42,Zheltoksan Street Phone: 8(7172) 30 20 20 E-mail: artastana@inbox.ru, artastana@gmail.com

Address: 26 Imanova Street, “Rakhat” Residential Complex Phone: 8 (7172) 73-13-38 / 39, 8 (7011) 00 02 01 Website: www.GoodProject.kz

Astana Park Hotel H H H H

Jumbaktas Hotel H H H H

Beijing Palace Soluxe Hotel Astana H H H H H

Kaspiy Astana Hotel H H H

Address: 2 Saryarka Street Phone: 8 (7172) 55 63 33 Website: www.astana-park.kz

Address: 27 Sagynak Street Phone: 8 (7172) 70 15 15 Website: www.soluxe-astana.kz

Comfort Hotel Astana H H H

Address: 60 Kosmonavtov Street Phone: 8 (7172) 24 44 44 Website: http://www.comforthotel.kz

Daniyar Hotel H H H Address: 11 Tauelsizdik Phone: 8 (7172) 35 02 15

Diplomat Hotel H H H H

Address: 65 Karasakal Erymbet Street Phone: 8 (7172) 67 77 37 Website: www.jumbaktas.kz

Address: 9 Takha Husien Street Phone: 8 (7172) 22 43 54 Website: www.kaspii.kz

Katon-Karagay Hotel H H Address: 18 Kuyshi Dina Street Phone: 8 (7172) 40 06 33

King Hotel Astana H H H H

Address: 7 Valikhanova Street Phone: 8 (7172) 70 57 05 Website: www.kinghotelastana.com

Lakki Hotel H H H

Address: 29/1 Konayeva Street Phone: +7 (7172) 550 001 Website: www.diplomathotel.kz

Address: 32/3,Abylay Han Avenue Phone: 8(7172) 34 49 63 Email: complexlakki@mail.ru, Website: www.lakki.kz

Duman Hotel H H H H

Lion Hotel H H H

Address: 2A Kurgalzhin Road Phone: 8 (7172) 79 15 00

Address: 57,Moscovskaya Street Phone: 8 (7172) 39 46 20

Tengri Hotel An Escape from the Work Day With so many hotel options to choose from in Astana, picking the right place isn’t easy. Some hotels offer luxury, some feature hip vibes, while others attract with no-nonsense business services. But if you’re looking for an escape from the bustle of business in the capital, the Tengri Hotel is the right choice. The Tengri is located on Mailin Street in an area somewhat removed – but an easy taxi ride – from Astana’s busy government and business center. During weekdays, the area surrounding this hotel is less busy than downtown, and it’s likely the only hotel in the city that comes with a soccer field. But the area is definitely not boring. Tengri is located a short walk from the popular Fashion nightclub and on weekends and evenings the neighborhood comes alive with Astana’s young and beautiful. The hotel opened in 2007 and has since hosted many Kazakh high officials, foreign businessmen and curious travelers. “We host numerous seminars here and our conference halls are always booked throughout the summer season as Astana is the center for foreign companies and most of the representatives stay at the Tengri Hotel,” the hotel’s sales and marketing consultant told EdgeKz, adding that the hotel’s suites are also decorated in a national style with lots of blue and yellow accents. The Tengri also gives a nod to Kazakh culture with its restaurant, Shanyrak, that features an entrance made from part of a yurt and configured in a yurtstyle half circle. The walls are also decorated with national patterns. In addition to the hotel’s gym and other amenities, such as WiFi, guests can reserve the soccer field for major events. Corporations such as Alliance Bank often book the field for their in-house tournaments. So for a hotel that provides access to official Astana, while offering an escape from the work day, try the Tengri Hotel.

Jumbaktas Hotel (Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) september 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com 95

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Email: lion-hotel@mail.ru, Website: www.lion-hotel.kz

Manhattan Hotel H H H H Address: 5 Tauelsizdik Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 36 15 36 Website: www.manastana.kz

Mukammal Hotel H H H H Address: 53/1 Pobeda Avenue Phones: 8 (7172) 30 29 06 8 (7172) 30 29 07 Website: www.mukammal.kz

Oasis Inn Hotel H H H

Address: 12a, Momyshuly Avenue Phone: 8(7172) 51 25 51 Email: reservation@oasisinn.kz, Website: www.oasisinn.kz

Prestige Hotel H H H

Address: 1 Zheltoksan Street Phone: 8 (7172) 32 51 81

Radisson SAS Hotel H H H H H Address: 4 Sary Arka Street Phone: 8 (7172) 99 00 00 Website: www.astana.radissonsas. com

Ramada Plaza Hotel H H H H H Address: 47 Abay Street Phone: 8 (7172) 39 10 00 Website: www.ramada.com

Rixos President H H H H H Address: 7 B Kunayev Street Phone: 8 (7172) 24 50 50 Website: www.rixos.com

Saryarka Hotel H H H

Address: 36,Sembinov Street Phone: 8(7172) 34 66 75 Email: saryarka_1@mail.ru

Tengri Hotel H H H

Address: 1 A Mailin Str. Phone: +7 (7172) 413 828 Website: www.tengrihotel.kz

Zhasamir Hotel H H H

Address: 17 Kenesary Street Phones: 8 (7172) 32 30 95, 8 (7172) 32 33 97 Website: www.jasamir.kz

*Hotel star rating provided by the Ministry of Tourism and Sport

Diplomat Hotel In the Heart of International Astana The word diplomat evokes images of one who possesses charm, sophistication and a worldly elegance. And Astana’s Diplomat Hotel lives up to its name. The Diplomat opened in 2008 as a premium business hotel and is located on the left bank in the heart of Astana’s international government and business center. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs is right next door, the House of Ministries is down the street and the Ministry of Defense is a short walk away. It’s a perfect location for government-related business. The hotel’s location also offers easy access to Astana’s after work attractions including the unique Baiterek Tower, the Keruen Shopping Mall and the must-see Khan Shatyr Entertainment and Shopping Complex. But you don’t have to leave the hotel to enjoy the Diplomat. Just waiting for a meeting in the lobby or enjoying a cup of tea in the morning with a panoramic view of the Baiterek Tower is enjoyable. The hotel’s deluxe suites are decorated in a Rococo style with upscale furniture and decidedly luxurious touches. The walls of the hotel’s first two floors are also lined with statues reminiscent of mythological gods. The Mezzanine restaurant provides a panoramic view of Astana’s left bank and an offering of European and Turkish food. Business people can also utilize the Diplomat’s fully updated and equipped conference rooms. And when the day is done, they can relax in the hotel’s massage center. In 2013, the hotel plans to expand the center into a full service spa, Assel Tuyakova, the hotel’s sales and marketing manager, told EdgeKz. The staff is also friendly and its receptionists speak excellent English. So if you want easy access to the country’s most important government centers, stop off at the Diplomat Hotel in the heart of international Astana.

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Mega Shopping Center

F

rom gorgeous landscapes, to ancient and modern cities, to a multitude of cultures, visitors to Kazakhstan can expect a diverse experience. The same is true of shopping in many of Kazakhstan’s cities. The retail outlets – large and small – you’ll find here offer the unexpected. Take the Khan Shatyr Shopping and Entertainment Complex in Astana. Inside the world’s largest tent, three floors of top boutiques and brand name shops share space with a sauna, an amusement park ride, a waterslide and an indoor beach. And forget dashing in and out for a pair of socks at Mega Mall, Astana’s other large shopping experience. Mega has an entertainment centre, arcade games, restaurants, and, of course, dozens of shops. Almaty has its own shopping and entertainment complexes in Ramstore and Mega Center, which has, among other diversions, a rock climbing wall.

Though the latest international brands are readily available, the traditional Kazakh shopping experience also continues to thrive. Almaty’s huge Barakholka market is tightly packed with vendors offering everything from furs to nail files, and within it are food stalls where locals take a break from bargaining to sip tea, eat shashlyk, and compare prices. After all, why rush? The market offers enough variety to browse for hours. The Zelyony Bazaar – meaning the Green Bazaar – is the same. It focuses on food, but you can also find clothes, housewares, and inevitably, a place to sit, eat, drink, and talk. Whether you’re hunting for souvenirs or saucepans, try shopping Kazakh-style. So it doesn’t matter if you are looking for a Louis Vuitton bag or a piece of Kazakh culture, you’ll have no trouble finding a store that carries it.

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food and sit-down restaurants. On the entertainment side, it also offers a skating rink, rock climbing wall, movie theatre and children’s arcade. It’s the place to go if you are looking to do more than just buy a new dress shirt. Address: 1 Kurgaldzhinskoe Highway Phone: +7 (7172) 79 09 90 www.astana.megacenter.kz

Sary Arka

This mall is for the shopping aficionado. It focuses on shopping more than entertainment and has a wide variety of brand name shops and independent boutiques. Of course, it also has cinemas and an extensive food court. But keep in mind that its culture is shopping.

Asia Park

This mall and entertainment center is spacious (45,000 sq. meters), up to date, has a 5-theater multiplex and a fabulous entertainment center for the kids. With 168 shops in the galleria, there are plenty of shopping opportunities. It boasts a fully-equipped Fitness First club and offers convenient middle-class shopping in a safe and friendly atmosphere. Address: 24 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phones: 8 (7172) 97 87 67 8 (7172) 97 86 00 Hours: 10:00 am – 11:00 pm Website: www.asiapark.kz/ gorod_astana

Keruen

Located on the Left Bank this mall attracts the younger crowd. It includes a food court, restaurants, a full grocery store and shops. It is considered to have the best multiplex with seven movie theaters. Address: 9 Dostyk Street Phone: 8 (7172) 79 55 20 8 (7172) 79 55 22 Hours: 10:00 am – 11:00 pm Website: www.keruen.kz

Khan Shatyr

The Khan Shatyr is the latest addition to the Astana shopping and entertainment scene. It has a unique design, like a large transparent tent, created to manage

Address: 24 Turan Avenue Phones: 8 (7172) 51 56 06, 8 (7172) 51 55 99 Hours: 10:00 am – 10:00 pm Website: www.saryarka.com

the extreme temperature range of the Central Asian steppe. Described as an urban-scale indoor park, shopping and entertainment venue, the shopping is upscale and varied. This is one place not to miss while in Astana. Address: Turan Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 73 47 68 Hours: 10:00 am - 10:00 pm Website: www.khanshatyr.com

Men Style

Sine Tempore

This is the oldest shopping center in the city and boats the most prestigious, and expensive, stores and boutiques. This mall is singular in that it does not have a multiplex cinema or entertainment center. The Venice Pizzeria on the premises, however, is quite popular. This mall is convenient to the Right Bank. Address: 9 Beybitshilik Street

Phone: 8 (7172) 75 38 07 Hours: 10:00 am – 11:00 pm

Empire Casa

This is the place to get high quality souvenirs of Kazakhstan. They have an exclusive range of products with original designs. Their products are perfect as corporate gifts or for weddings and other memorable occasions. Address: 11 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue (Triumph Building, Section 2—for corporate clients) Phone: 8 (7172) 68 88 00 (corporate clients/office)

Tulpar

The Tulpar shopping center is a four-level mall that bills itself as the best place for home goods in Astana. And though you may not be interested in its couches and refrigerators, it is also a great place to pick up the things you’ll need for everyday living during an extended stay in Astana. If you need a new T-shirt, a new pair of running shoes, or some cough medicine, this is the place to go. Address: 24 Valikhanova Street Phone: 8 (7172) 54 98 88 Hours: Daily 10:00 am – 9:00 pm Website: www.tulparcenter.kz Boutiques are also located in the Astana International Airport and the following malls: Mega, Keruen, Sine Tempore.

Men Style is one of Kazakhstan’s most unique, modern and international men’s clothing stores. This two-story outlet offers everything from hip, colourful shoes, to unique t-shirts, to the best designer suits. It boasts an impressive 800 square meters of showrooms and offers leading European brands such as Rene Lezard, Strellson, Lodenfrey, Jacques Britt, and Marz with about 25 brands in total. This is the place go if you want to find something stylish, unique and international. Address: 6 Barayeva Street Phone: 8 (7172) 20 42 10 Hours: Daily 10:00 am – 9:00 pm Website: www.menstyle.kz

Mega Shopping Center

Mega is an all-in-one entertainment and shopping complex. Its three levels are packed with international brands and both fast

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.)

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Mega Shopping Center All-in-One Entertainment and Shopping There are lots of places to find knick-knacks or dress shirts in Astana. There are not, however, all that many places where you can both buy skates and go skating. Astana’s Mega Shopping Center can be your convenient one-stop-shop for entertainment and good old-fashioned retail. Mega Astana’s three levels are packed with internationally recognised brands and fast food chains. The first floor, in addition to lots of shops, has the promised skating rink. The second floor hosts chains like Zara, Maxx, Beautymania, United Colors of Benetton and other global brand names. The third floor tickles the taste buds with Mexican and other food options, including a KFC. Don’t want fast food? There’s an Assorti restaurant on the small fourth level with Japanese and European cuisine for those who want to linger over a meal. In addition to food, the third floor holds most of Mega Astana’s entertainment options. There’s the Happylon Amusement Park for kids with arcade games, concession stands and dances organised by the staff for the little ones. The child-friendly environment and interior will make any kid want to come back again and again. The third floor also holds the mall’s movie theatre, KinoPark 6, which features the latest films in Kazakh and Russian, and the 12-meter climbing wall complete with support ropes and harnesses set up so anyone can step up to the challenge. Mega Center has got everything to ensure a satisfying, fun shopping experience. Mega Astana, which opened in 2008, is located next to the city circus and across the street from the Duman Oceanarium on the left bank. There are also similar centers in Almaty, Shymkent and Aktobe.

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A L M A T Y

city

guide


restaurants

Sumo San

Price Key (per person): $ = 3000 tenge-6500 tenge $$ = 6500 tenge-9500 tenge $$$ = 9500 tenge-13,000 tenge

Teatralnoye

Cuisine: International / French Address: 51A Zhambyl Street Phone: +7 (727) 272 87 77 Hours: Daily noon-12 am Price range: $$$

Schwabsky Domik

Cuisine: European / German Address: 121 Abylai Khan Avenue Phone: +7 (727) 261 05 14 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $$$

Naoro

Cuisine: Fusion Address: 17 Abai Avenue (corner of Pushkin Street), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 291 11 45 Hours: Tues-Sat 7 pm-11 pm Price range: $$$

The Grill Restaurant

Cuisine: International / American Address: Hyatt Regency Hotel, 29/6 Satpaev Street, Bostandyk District Phone: +7 (727) 250 26 63 Hours: Daily noon-3 pm and 6 pmmidnight Price range: $$$

Bellagio

Cuisine: Italian Address: 197 Gornaya Street, Road to Medeo Phone: +7 (727) 250 24 09 Hours: Daily noon-midnight www.bellagio.kz Price range: $$$

Dali Restaurant

Cuisine: Mediterranean Address: Zhailyau Golf Resort, Kargaly District Phone: +7 (727) 277 76 21 Hours: Daily 10 am-midnight www.zgr.kz Price range: $$$

Kok-Tobe

Cuisine: Kazakh Address: Kok Tobe Mountain Phone: +7 (727) 295 44 44 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $$$

Thai

Cuisine: Thai Address: 50 Dostyk Avenue (corner of Kurmangazy Street), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 291 01 90 Hours: Daily noon-11 pm Price range: $$$

Boudoir

Cuisine: Fusion Address: 134 Bogenbai Batyr Avenue (corner of Abylai Khan Avenue), Almaly District Phone: +7 (727) 272 55 55 Hours: Daily noon-2 am Price range: $$$

Alasha

Cuisine: Uzbek Address: 20 Ospanov Street, Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 254 07 00 Hours: Daily noon-midnight www.alasha.kz Price range: $$

Sadu Concept Store

Cuisine: Mediterranean Address: Mercur Town, 3/25 Samal (Furmanov Street), Samal Microdistrict Phone: +7 (727) 271 68 65 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $$

Namedni

Cuisine: Russian Address: 44 Furmanova Street (corner of Makatayev Street) Phone: +7 (727) 273 84 94 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $$

Di Wang

Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $$

Asian Wok

Cuisine: Chinese / Indian Address: 248 Dostyk Avenue (corner of Kazhymukan Street), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 264 4812 Hours: Daily noon-11 pm Price range: $$

Porto Maltese

Cuisine: Mediterranean Address: 109 Panfilov Street (corner of Gogol Street), Almaly District Phone: +7 (727) 273 21 78 Hours: Daily noon-11 pm Price range: $$

Primavera

Cuisine: European /Japanese Fusion Address: Koktem Business Centre, 180 Dostyk Avenue (corner of Zholdasbekov Street), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 237 5087 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $$

Avlabar

Cuisine: Georgian Address: Tau Dastarkhan Family Resort, Ili Alatau National Park, Alma Arasan Gorge. Phone: +7 (727) 270 57 29 Hours: Daily 11 am-2 am www.tau-dastarkhan.kz Price range: $$

Cuisine: Japanese / Chinese Address: 75 Zhambyl Street (corner of Tchaikovskovo Street) Phone: +7 (727) 272 38 10 Hours: Daily noon-midnight www.diwang.kz Price range: $$

Bibliotheque

Cuisine: European Address: 116 Dostyk Avenue (corner of Satpaev Street), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 262 61 22 Price range: $$

Safran

Cuisine: Middle Eastern Address: 36 Dostyk Avenue (corner of Bogenbai Batyr Avenue), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 293 86 67 Hours: Mon-Sat noon-midnight, Sun 1 pm-midnight Price range: $$

Zhety Kazyna

Cuisine: International Address: 58a Abylai Khan Avenue (entrance on Makatayev Street), Zhetisu District Phone: +7 (727) 273 25 87 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $$

Kishlak

Cuisine: Central Asian Address: Seifullin Street Phone: +7 (727) 261 56 01 Hours: Daily noon-1 am Price range: $

Borgo Antico

Cuisine: Italian Address: 11/6 Iskendirov Street, Gornyi Gigant Phone: +7 (727) 293 51 51

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com101


Sumo San

Cuisine: Japanese Address: 159 Baitursynuly Street, Bostandyk District Phone: +7 (727) 292 87 38 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $

Pomodor

Cuisine: Italian Address: 108 Panfilov Street (corner of Bogenbai Batyr Avenue), Almaly District Phone: +7 (727) 261 83 26 Hours: Mon-Sat noon-11:30 pm Price range: $

Korea House

Namaste

Cuisine: Korean Address: 2 Gogol Street, Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 293 96 87 Hours: daily, noon-midnight Price range: $

Cuisine: Indian Address: Baitursynov Street (corner of Satpaev Street), Bostandyk District Phone: +7 (727) 292 24 84 Hours: Daily 11 am-midnight Price range: $

Piano Bar Mardi Gras

Zontiki

Cuisine: International Address: Palladium Restaurant Complex, 275 Furmanov Street (corner of Al-Farabi Avenue), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 260 89 00 Hours: Mon-Fri noon-3 pm www.palladium.kz Price range: $

Cuisine: Japanese / Korean Address: 44 Kurmangazy Street (corner of Tulebaev Street), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 272 6759 Hours: Daily 11 am-midnight Price range: $

Cooshy Sushi

8 (727) 2722042 Website: www.gatob.kz

State Museum of National Musical Instruments

Address: 24 Zenkov Street Phone: 8 (727) 2916326 Hours: Tue-Sun: 10:00 am-5:30 pm

Art&Shock Theatre

Address: 49/68 Kunayev Street Phone: 8 (727) 2735282, 8 (727) 2735282 Website: www.artishock.kz

Lermontov Russian Drama Theatre and Tengri Umay Arts Gallery

Cuisine: Sushi / Japanese Address: 41/15 Gogol Street (corner of Zenkov Street), Medeu District Phone: +7 (727) 273 84 62 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Price range: $

Address: 43 Abai Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 2673131, 8 (727) 2673151, 8 (727) 2673145 Hours: Mon-Sat: 10:00 am-6:00 pm Website: www.tl.kz

arts & culture

Address: 64D, Satpayev Street Phone: 8 (727) 3920234, 8 (727) 3920233 Website: www.dta.kz

Kasteyev State Museum of Arts

Arvest Art Gallery

Address: 30a Satpaev Street Phone: 8 (727) 2478356, 8 (727) 2478249 Hours: 10:00 am – 6:00 pm (closed on Mondays and last day of each month) Website: www.gmirk.kz

Central State Museum

Address: 44 Samal-1 Phone: 8 (727) 2644650, 8 (727) 2642200, 8 (727) 2645577 Hours: Wed-Mon: 10:00 am-6:00 pm

Abai Kazakh State Opera and Ballet Theatre

Address: 110 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 2727934,

102EDGEKZ.com No. 7 SEPTEMBER 2012

Deutsches Theater Almaty

Address: 75/68 Bogenbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 2914797 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-8:00 pm Website: www.arvest.kz

hotels Rixos Almaty H H H H H

Address: 506/99 Seifullin Street Phone: 8 (727) 300 33 00 Website: www.rixos.com

InterContinental Hotel H H H H H

Address: 181 Zheltoksan Street Phone: 8 (727) 250 50 00 Website: www.ichotelsgroup.com

Hyatt Regency Almaty H H H H H

Address: 29/6 Satpayev Street Phone: 8 (727) 250 12 34 Website: www.hyatt.com

Royal Tulip Almaty H H H H H Address: 401/2, M. Ospanov Street Phone: 8 (727) 300 01 00 Website: www.royaltulipalmaty.com

Dostyk Hotel H H H H H

Address: 26 Kurmangazy Street Phone: 8 (727) 255 82 27 Website: http://www.dostyk.kz/en

Shera Hotel H H H H

Address: 281 Furmanov Street Phone: 8 (727) 313 75 75 Website: www.hotel-shera.kz

Royal Palace Hotel H H H H Address: 178 Zhansugurov Street Phone: 8 (727) 380 79 12 Website: www.hotelrp.kz

Ambassador Hotel H H H H

Address: 121 Zheltoksan Street Phone: 8 (727) 250 89 89 Website: www.ambassadorhotel.kz

Grand Hotel Tien Shan H H H H Address: 115 Bogenbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 244 96 00 Website: www.tienshan-hotels.com

Holiday Inn H H H H

Address: 2D Temiryazev Street Phone: 8 (727) 244 02 55 Website: www.holidayinn.com

Kazakhstan Hotel H H H H

Address: 52/2 Dostyk Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 291 91 01 Website: www.kazakhstanhotel.kz

Kazzhol Hotel H H H H

Address: Gogol Street 127/1, Almaly


Phone: 8 (727) 250 89 44 Website: www.hotelkazzhol.kz

Almaty Sapar Hotel H H H H Address: 177 Zhamakaev Street Phone: 8 (727) 246 88 66 Website: www.saparhotels.com

Uyut Hotel H H H H

Astana Inter Hotel H H H H

Address: 113 Baitursynov Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 250 70 50, 8 (727) 250 10 60 E-mail: info@astana-hotel.com

Hotel Premier Alatau H H H H

Address 127/1 Gogol Street Phone: 8 (727) 279 55 11 Website: www.hotel-uyut.kz

Address: 105 Dostyk Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 258 11 11, 8 (727) 258 43 12 Website: www.alatau-hotel.kz

Voyage Hotel H H H H

Jeppesen Hotel H H H

Address: Furmanov Street, 97a Phone: 8 (727) 272 22 77 Website: www.voyage-hotel.kz

Grand Hotel Eurasia H H H H Address 9a Zholdasbekov Street Phone: 8 (727) 380 80 80 E-mail: eurasia_hotel@mail.ru

Parasat Hotel & Residence H H H H

Address: 10 Elebekov Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 263 55 88, 8 (727) 263 55 99 E-mail: parasathotel@mail.ru

Grand Hotel Aiser H H H H Address: 1 Pozharskiy Street Phone: 8 (727) 296 99 99 E-mail: info@grandaiserhotel.kz

Address: 206B Gagarin Street Phone: 8 (727) 275 49 05 Website: www.aviaclub.kz

Almaty Hotel H H H

Address: 85 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 272 00 47 Website: www.hotel-alma-ata.com

Hotel & Resort “Altyn Kargaly” H H H

Address: 204 Zhandosov Street Phone: 8 (727) 250 08 28, 8 (727) 250 08 26 Website: www.altyn-kargaly.kz

Arasan Banya Address: 506/99 Seifullina Street Phone: 8 (727) 300 33 00, 8 (727) 300 33 33 Hours: Daily 7:00 am-midnight Website: www.rixos.com

Luxor

Type: Spa / Banya / Fitness Center Address: 341 Dostyk Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 2677 577 Hours: Daily 7:00 am-midnight Website: www.luxor.kz

Alligator Club

Hours: Daily, except Sundays, 9:00 am – 9:00 pm Website: www.banzai.kz

Oazis

Type: Banya Address: 176 Altyn Besik, on the corner of Tole Bi Yassayu Phone: 8 (727) 226-07-77, 8 (701) 744-98-97 Hours: Daily 24 hours

Caesa’r Club

Address: 402 Seifullin Avenue Phone: 8(727) 279 71 59 E-mail: litule19907@hotmail.com

Type: Banya Address: 1B Kabanbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 261 05 22, 8 (702) 33 222 9 Hours: Daily 24 hours

Type: Banya Address: 212 Raymbek Avenue Phone: 8 (702) 222 99 90; 8 (727) 269 94 84; 8 (727) 269 94 93 Hours: Daily 24 hours

Astra Hotel H H H

Arasan Banya

Aprofit

Gold Dragon Hotel H H H

Address: 12 Zheltoksan Street Phone: 8 (727) 246 86 88 Website: www.astra-hotel.kz

Olympic Hotel H H H

Address: 14 Sanatornaya Street Phone: 8 (727) 250 03 27, 8 (727) 299 02 44 Website: www.baganashil.kz

fitness & banya World Class Fitness Center

Type: Fitness Center Address: Mendygulov Street at Al-Farabi (between Furmanova and Dostyk) Phone: 8 (727) 250 6500, 8 (727) 250 91 15 Hours: Daily 7:00 am- midnight Website: www.worldclassfitnesscenter.net

Rixos Royal SPA Type: Banya / Spa

Type: Banya Address:78 Tulebayeva Street, on the corner of Aiteke Bi Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 272 46 71, 8 (727) 272 46 72 Hours: Tue-Sun: 8:00 am-10:0 pm. Closed Monday

Fitnation

Type: Fitness Center / Banya Address: 15 Respubliki Street Phone: 8 (727) 295 29 39 Hours: Daily 7:00 am-11:00 pm E-mail: sales@fitnation.kz Samal Fitness Center Type: Fitness / Banya Address: 91A Samal 2 Phone: 8 (727) 265 39 10 Hours: Daily 24 hours Website: www.samaldeluxe.kz

Nordik Fitness Club

Type: Fitness Center Address: 132 Dostyk Avenue Phone: 8(727) 264 34 35, 8 (727) 264 55 48 Hours: Daily 7:00 am-11:00 pm Website: www.aprofit.kz

Bella

Type: Banya Address: 106A Gurileva Street Phone: 8 (727) 234-46-74, 8 (701) 335 88 38 Hours: Daily 24 hours

FitCurves

Type: Fitness Center / Spa Address: 15 Kaldayakov Street Phone: 8 (727) 390 60 90 Hours: Daily 7:00 am-11:00 pm Website: www.fitcurves.kz

Teremok

Type: Fitness Club Address: Tsum building. Entrance from Zhibek Zholy, inside the glass door on the right. Phone: 8 (727) 273 78 84

Type: Banya Address: 16 Adylova Street, Taugul-3 Microdistrict. Phone: 8 (727) 309 21 21, 309 20 20, 8 (705) 999 30 30 Hours: Daily 24 hours

SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com103


Medved

Type: Banya Address: 60 Makatayev Street, on the corner of Kunayev Street Phone: 8 (727) 297 00 00 Hours: Daily 24 hours

nightclubs Da Freak

Cuisine: European, East Address: 40 Gogol Street, Panfilov Park, Medeu District Phone: 8 (727) 273 1337, 8 (727) 273 1337 Hours: Fri-Sat: Midnight-6:00 am

Gas

Barskye Zadvorki

Type: Banya Address: Dostyk Avenue on the corner of Marat Ospanov Street Phone: 8 (727) 260 45 04, 8 (701) 369 81 56 Hours: Daily 24 hours Website: www.vip-sauna.kz

Anira Silk Way City

Type: Fitness Center / Spa Address: 142 Dzherzinsky Street, on the corner of Zheltoksan Street Phone: 8 (727) 328-62-46 Hours: Daily 7:00 am-11:00 pm Website: www.anira.kz

For Life

Type: Banya Address: 208A Aimanov Street, on the corner of the Dzhandosov Street Phone: 8 (707) 333 88 84, 8 (705) 115 55 33 Hours: Daily 24 hours

Cuisine: European Address: 100 Seifullin Avenue (corner of Shevchenko), Almaly District Phone: 8 (727) 272 7474, 8 (727) 272 7474 Hours: Mon: 10:00 pm-6:00 am, Wed-Fri: 10:00 pm-7:00 am, Sat: 10:00 pm – 9:00 am. Closed Tuesdays.

Petroleum

Cuisine: European, East, Japanese Address: 100 Seifullin Avenue (corner of Shevchenko), Almaly District Phone: 8 (727) 272 7474, 8 (727) 272 7474 Hours: Daily 10:00 pm-6:00 am

Cuba

Cuisine: European, East Address: 102 Bogenbai Batyr Avenue (corner of Dostyk Avenue), Almaly District Phone: 8 (727) 291 2932, 8 (727) 291 2932, 8 (727)291 4310 Hours: 24 hours daily, live music Thur-Sat: at 10:00 pm

Car Banya Complex

Type: Banya Address: 32 Rymzhanov Street, Kalkaman Microdistrict Phone: 8 (727) 393 90 94, 381 86 86, 8 (777) 809 88 33 Hours: Daily 24 hours

Body Dance

Type: Fitness Center / Spa Address: 47B Mynbayev Street on the corner of Auezov Street Phone: 8 (727) 375 39 92 Hours: Daily 7:00 am-11:00 pm

104EDGEKZ.com No. 7 SEPTEMBER 2012

Most

Cuisine: European, East Address: 12 Kommunalnaya Street (corner of Seifullin Street), Zhetisu District Phone: 8(727) 233 0457, 8 (727) 233 0457 Hours: Fri -Sat: Midnight-9:00 am Website: www.most-club.kz

Rai

Cuisine: Japanese Address: Tselini Cinema, Kabanbai Batyr Avenue (corner of Masanchi Street), Almaly Disctrict Phone: 8 (701) 687 9587 , 8 (701) 687 9587 Hours: Lounge Thur-Sat: 8:00 pm6:00 am. Nightclub Thur - Fri: 11:00 pm-6:00 am

Esperanza

Cuisine: East, European, Kazkah, Turkish Address: 481 Seifullin Street (corner of Raiymbek Avenue), Zhetisu District Phone: 8 (727) 299 6699, 8 (727) 299 6699 Hours: Daily 10:00 pm-6:00 am

Tornado

Cuisine: European, Italian, Japanese Address: Assorti Restaurant, 106G Dostyk Avenue (corner of Abai Avenue), Medeu District Phone: 8 (727) 263 3266, 8 (727) 263 3266 Hours: Fri -Sat: 11:00 am-5:00 pm

Metro

Cuisine: European, Russian, Japanese Address: 2b Zhandosov Street (corner of Baizakov Street), Central District Phone: 8 (727) 247 8166,

8 (727) 247 8166 Hours: Daily noon-5:00 am, Fri -Sat: until 7:00 am Website: www.metro-club.kz

shopping Mega Center

Address: 247A Rozybakiyev Street Phone: 8(727) 232 25 01 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-10:00 pm Website: www.almaty.megacenter.kz

Ramstore Trade Center

Address: 226 Furmanov Street Phone: 8 (717) 258 75 80, 8 (727) 258 75 81 Hours: Daily 9:00 am-11:00 pm Website: www.ramstore.kz

Zangar, also known as Tsum Address: 62 Abylay Khan Street Phone: 8 (727) 273 29 51, 8 (727) 273 06 30 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-9:00 pm

Barakholka and Adem

Address: Take a ‘Barakholka’ bus headed down Rozybakiyev Street from Raimbek Street Phone: Adem: 8 (727) 270 66 66, 8 (727) 270 66 22 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-6:00 pm. Closed Mondays.

Zelyony Bazar, also known as Green Bazaar

Address: Intersection of Zhibek Zholy Street and Zenkov Street – one street down from the St. Ascension Cathedral (also known as Zenkov Cathedral) Hours: Daily 10:00 am-6:00 pm. Closed Sundays.


Shtab

Phone: 8 (727) 272 24 40 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-midnight

Soho

Address: 65 Kazybek Bi Avenue (corner of Furmanov Street) Phone: 8(727) 267 03 67 Hours: Daily 9:00 am-3:00 am Website: www.soho.kz

Stylish Dog Stolichny

Address: 121 Abylay Khan Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 266 55 05, 8 (266) 55 15 Hours: Daily 24 hours

bars Cinzano

Address: 109b Dostyk Avenue (corner of Kazhymukan Street), Medeu District Phone: 8 (727) 253 13 45 Hours: Daily, noon-8:00 am

Di Wang Lounge Bar

Address: 75 Jambyl Street (corner of Tschaikovskovo Street) Phone: 8 (727) 272 38 10 Hours: Sun-Wed: 11:00 am-last customer, Thur-Sat: 9:00 pm-last customer Website: www.diwang.kz

Dublin Pub

Address: 45 Bayseyitova Street Phone: 8 (727) 272 14 75 Hours: Daily 11:00 am-1:00 am

Euphoria

Address: 29/6 Satpayev Street, Hyatt Regency Hotel Phone: 8 (727) 226 18 08 Hours: Mon-Wed: 5:00 pm-2:00 am, Thur-Sun: 5:00 pm-5:00 am

Guinness Pub

Address: 71 E Dostyk Avenue, near Hotel Kazakhstan Phone: 8 (727) 291 55 85 Hours: 11:00 am-2:00 am

GQ Asia bar

Address: 248 Dostyk Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 387 04 03 Hours: Mon-Wed: 5:00 pm-2:00 am, Thur-Sat: 5:00 pm-4:00 am

La Fete

Address: 44 Kurmangazy Street (cor-

ner of Furmanov Street, downstairs in the Hall of Receptions building), Medeu District Phone: 8 (727) 272 78 37 Hours: Daily 6:00 pm-2:00 am

Address: Café Max Internet-Center, 1A Timiryazev Street, Bostandyk District Phone: 8 (727) 260 98 88 Hours: Daily noon-midnight Website: www.cafemax.kz

Line Brew

Tinkoff

Address: 187 Furmanov Street (corner of Abai Avenue), Bostandyk District Phone: 8 (727) 250 79 85 Hours: Daily 12:00 am-last customer

Mad Murphy’s

Address: 12 Tole Bi Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 291 28 56 Hours: Daily 11:30 am-1:00 am

Members Bar

Address: 181 Zheltoksan Street, InterContinental Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 250 50 00 Hours: Mon-Sat: 9:00 pm-2:00 am

Nice Bar

Address: 29 Volodarskogo Street Phone: 8 (727) 292 38 25 Hours: Daily, 12:00 am-2:00 am

Nirvana Bar

Address: 27a Satpaev Street (corner of Masanchi Street), Bostandyk District Phone: 8 (727) 292 49 00 Hours: Daily noon-2:00 am Website: www.tinkoff.ru

Vitalita

Address: 63 Tole Bi Avenue (corner of Zheltoksan Street) Phone: 8 (727) 272 74 61 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-last customer

Address: 115 Ablay Khan Avenue (at the corner of Karasay Batyr Street) Phone: 8 (727) 272 23 86 Hours: Daily 9:00 am-1:00 am Website: www.madlen.kz

Cafemax

Address: 176 Zhibek Zholy Street (between Kunayev and Furmanov Streets) Phone: 8 (727) 273 95 53 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-9:00 pm Website: www.cafemax.kz

“Lounge Bar 29”

Phone: 8 (727) 291 97 37 Hours: Daily 9:00 am-2:00 am

Gloria Jeans

Address: 133 Abylay Khan Avenue (at the corner of Bogenbay Batyr Avenue) Phone: 8 (727) 321 04 88 Hours: Daily 10:00 am-midnight Website: www.gloriajeanscoffees.com

Address: 81 Zhibek Zholy Street Phone: 8 (727) 271 82 37 Hours: Daily 8:00 am-9:00 pm Website: www.4acoffee.com

OXO Lounge Bar

Coffeedelia

Address: 83 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 272 10 92 Hours: Daily 11:00 am-1:00 am

Address: 67a Gabdullin St (Auezov), Bostandyk Phone: 8 (727) 275 62 53 Hours: Daily 6:00 pm-5:00 am

Address: 79 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 273 23 94 Hours: Daily 8:00 am-12:00 pm

Posh Bar

Address: 149 Furmanov Street Phone: 8 (727) 261 39 54 Hours: 8:00 am – midnight Website: www.marronerosso.com

Address: 117 Bogenbay Batyr Avenue Phone: 8 (727) 272 05 94 Hours: Daily 24 hours

Madlen

4A Coffee

L’Affiche

San Siro

Address: 44 Shevchenko Street Phone: 8 (727) 261 74 16 Hours: Daily 9:00 am-11:30 pm

cafés

Address: Building 2, Dostyk Avenue (Satpaev), Samal Microdistrict Phone: 8 (727) 264 74 50 Hours: Daily noon-midnight

Address: Mercur Town, 3/25 AlFarabi (corner of Furmanov Street), Samal Microdistrict Phone: 8 (727) 266 39 96 Hours: Daily 9:00 am-last customer

Cafe Coffee and Toffee

Marrone Rosso

“Segafredo Zanetti” cafe

Address: 46 Dostyk Avenue (corner of Zhambul Street) Phone: 8 (727) 291 02 27 Hours: Daily 9:00 am-midnight Website: www.segafredo.kz

SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com105


Nation

People

Eurasia & World

Society

www.AstanaTimes.kz Your monthly English language newspaper in Kazakhstan

Culture Business Business People Tourism Sports Editorials Country People Society Economy

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION WHEN IN KAZAKHSTAN

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Climate Kazakhstan’s distance from the ocean and its vast territory affect the country’s climate. The weather and temperature can vary dramatically based on geography and time of year. Also beware of the wind from the steppe, which can make a huge difference in how the temperature feels. Average temperatures for the two main cities are:

Astana January, -17°C (1°F) July, 20°C (68°F)

Almaty January, -6°C (21°F) July, 24°C (75°F)

KAZAKHSTAN

Cellular Communications Companies Kazakhstan cell phone companies operate on a prepaid system. A SIM card can be purchased (GSM network) providing a local cell number. As credit runs out, it can be replenished easily by purchasing more via electronic dispensers throughout the city. They are located mainly in supermarkets, convenience stores and major shopping centers. Credit can also be purchased on scratch cards and loaded onto a cell phone by entering the code. No monthly billing plans exist in Kazakhstan at this time.

Making Telephone Calls in Kazakhstan

Making telephone calls in Kazakhstan can be a little confusing for the new visitor. Here are some instructions that will, hopefully, make it a little easier. Local Calls If you are calling locally how you dial will depend on whether you are using a land line or a cellular phone. If you are calling a land line from a land line, it is easy. Simply dial the local number (last six digits). If you are calling a land line from a cell phone, you must dial the prefix: 8 + the city code (7172 for Astana) and then the local number. If you are calling a cell phone from a land line or another cell phone, you must also dial the prefix: 8 + the cell company code + the number International calls If you are calling abroad from Kazakhstan: Dial for international access (810) + the country code + the regional code (if any) + the local telephone number. To call Kazakhstan from abroad: Dial the code for international access + Kazakhstan’s country code (7) + the Kazakhstan city code + the Kazakhstan local telephone number. Kazakhstan Dialing Codes: Almaty region: 727, 728 Astana city dial code: 717

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION WHEN IN KAZAKHSTAN

Useful Websites

General Information: www.EdgeKz.com Edge Magazine www.kazakhstanlive.com International Information Center of the Republic of Kazakhstan www.visitkazakhstan.com/en/ Official Tourism website of the Committee of Tourism Industry

http : / / w w w.

There are a variety of websites in Kazakh, Russian and English with information on Kazakhstan. We have listed many of the websites that include an English language version here. If the site does not immediately open into an English language version, look for the “Eng” button. Not all the websites will have everything translated into English, but most have sufficient information to make the sites useful.

Kazakh Government Websites: www.akorda.kz www.akorda.kz/en (ENG) Official site of the President of the Republic

www.mfa.kz Official site of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs

www.mts.gov.kz www.mts.gov.kz/?lang=en (ENG) Official site of the Agency for Sport and Physical Culture www.parlam.kz www.parlam.kz/Information.aspx?lan=en-US (ENG) Official site of Parliament www.government.kz www.en.government.kz/ (ENG) Official site of the government www.almaty.kz www.almaty.kz/page.php?lang=2 (ENG) Official site of the city of Almaty www.astana.kz http://en.astana.kz/ (ENG) Official site of the city of Astana www.astana-almaty2011.kz www.astana-almaty2011.kz/en.html (ENG) Official site of the Astana-Almaty 2011 Asia Winter Games

Tourism and Leisure: www.restoran.kz www.restoran.kz/en (ENG) Restaurant information for Astana and Almaty www.realkz.com www.realkz.com/page.php?lang=2 (ENG) Cities, hotels, restaurants in Kazakhstan www.kaztour-association.com (RUS) Kazakhstan Tourist Association www.centralasia.travel (ENG) Central Asia Travel guide

www.eco-tourism.kz www.eco-tourism.kz/index.php?lng=eng (ENG) Kazakhstan Ecotourism

News About Kazakhstan and the region www.centralasianewswire.com (ENG) Leading English language newswire covering Central Asia www.inform.kz www.inform.kz/eng (ENG) Official site of KazInform Information agency

www.khabar.kz Official site of Khabar News Agency www.kazpravda.kz www.kazpravda.kz/l/eng (ENG) Official site of the “KazPravda” daily newspaper

www.astanatimes.kz Official site of the Englishlanguage monthly newspaper The Astana Times out of Astana, updated regularly.

CURRENCY EXCHANGE RATES AS OF AUGUST 9, 2012 TENGE USD 150 EUR 186 RUB 4.75 AUD 159 GBP 235 BYR 0.01 HUF 0.66 DKK 24.73 AED 40.80 CAD 151 CNY 23.56 530.32 KWD KGS 3.18 LVL 264.55 LTL 53.27 MDL 11.97 NOK 25.98 PLN 45.34 SAR 39.95 XDR 226.11 SGD 120.36 TJS 31.45 TRY 83.94 UZS 0.07 UAH 18.52 CZK 7.33 SEK 22.34 CHF 153.33 ZAR 18.48 KRW 0.13 JPY 1.90

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TRANSPORTATION & TRAVEL

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ASTANA CAR RENTAL COMPANIES

Weather Essentials

Transport Company Riksha Address: 25 Bogenbay Street, office 29 Phone: 8 (7172) 62 72 60 8 (701) 441 75 57

Astana Month Low

Hertz Caspian Project Supply Company Address: 6/1 Kabanbay Street Phone: 8 (7172) 58 00 56 8 (7172) 58 04 84

High

Jan

1°F / -17°C

13°F / -11°C

Feb

-1F° / -18°C

14°F / -10°C

Mar 10°F / -12°C

26°F / -4°C

Apr

32°F / 0°C

50°F / 10°C

May

46°F / 8°C

67°F / 20°C

GENERAL

AIRLINES

Jun

56F° / 13°C

78°F / 25°C

Jul

59°F / 15°C

80°F / 27°C

Aug

55°F / 13°C

76°F / 25°C

Sept

45°F / 7°C

65°F / 18°C

Astana International Airport Address: Airport 14 OS Phone: 8 (7172) 70 29 99 Website: www.astanaairport.kz

Oct

33°F / 0°C

49°F / 9°C

Nov

Lufthansa Phone: 8 (7172) 28 64 92 8 (7172) 28 64 93 Hours: Mon-Wed-Sat 8:00 pm – 10:00 pm Tue-Thurs-Sun 11:00 pm – 2:00 pm

16°F / -9°C

18°F / -12°C

Dec

5°F / -15°C

16°F / -9°C

Train Station Address: Privokzalnaya square Phone: 8 (7172) 105 8 (7172) 38 07 07 8 (7172) 38 33 33 Bus Station Address: Privokzalnaya square Phone: 8 (7172) 39 85 04 8 (7172) 30 35 49

Taxis Arba taxi Phone: 8 (7172) 31 57 13 Hours: Around the clock Green Eyed Taxi Phone: 8 (7172) 34 44 94 Hours: Around the clock Pegasus XXI taxi Phone: 8 (7172) 37 24 24, 8 (7172) 37 18 18 Hours: Around the clock Samal taxi Phone: 8 (7172) 22 22 22, 8 (7172) 22 18 82 Hours: Around the clock Metropolitan taxi LLP Phone: 8 (7172) 32 02 20, 8 (701) 785 57 37 Hours: Around the clock Transport company Riksha VIP taxi Phone: 8 (7172) 62 72 60 8 (701) 441 75 57 Hours: Around the clock Elite taxi Phone: 8 (7172) 34 10 10 8 (701) 610 23 23

Turkish Airlines Phone: 8 (7172) 77 70 20 8 (7172) 77 70 21 Hours: 11:00 pm-7:00 am Transaero Phone: 8 (7172) 31 70 40 8 (7172) 31 83 50 Hours: 9:00 am – 9:00 pm Pulkovo Phone: 8 (7172) 21 69 17 8 (7172) 21 69 18 Hours: 9:00 am – 7:00 pm Weekend 10:00 am – 6:00 pm Aerosvit Phone: 8 (7172) 50 82 74 Hours: Round the clock Belavia Phone: 8 (7172) 23 98 48 8 (7172) 23 98 25 Hours: 9:00 am – 6:00 pm Air Astana Phone: 8 (7172) 59 14 21 8 (7172) 59 14 22 Hours: 9:00 am – 8:30pm Austrian Airlines Phone: 8 (7172) 28 64 82 8 (7172) 39 00 00 Hours: Round the clock Berkut Phone: 8 (7172) 75 21 05 Hours: 9:00 am-6:00 pm

Bastion.kz Address: 166 Omarov Street Phone: 8 (7172) 34 70 70 8 (7172) 34 70 68 8 (7172) 54 49 63 Tandau ST Address: 16/1 Maylin Street Phone: 8 (7172) 34 46 65 8 (7172) 34 46 65 Vipcaz KZ Address: 13 Auezov Street Phone: 8 (7172) 47 81 87 8 701 777 93 53 DanZamir Address: 7 Seifullin Street, office 27 Phone: 8 (701) 918 69 17 8 (7172) 23 61 05 KazGPS Address: 19 Imanov Street, office 406B Phone: 8 (7172) 78 74 17 8 (7172) 78 74 18 8 (702) 46 74 538 OKAN Intercontinental Astana Address: 47 Abay Street Phone: 8 (7172) 39 10 00 Rent a Car Astana Address: 40 Auezov Street, office 211 Phone: 8 (7172) 77 96 90 8 (701) 933 26 80 Zhas Kala Address: 1A Mozhayskiy Street Phone: 8 (7172) 54 18 19 Green Spedition International Transport Company Phone: 8 (705) 118 49 18 OKAN Intercontinental Address: 113 Abay Street Phone: 8 (7172) 39 10 00

Zhetyssu Phone: 8 (7172) 94 63 22 8 (7172) 94 62 96 Hours: 9:00 am – 7:00 pm Saturday: 9:00 am – 6:00 pm Sunday: 10:00 am – 6:00 pm

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ASTANA Emergency Services Police Landline: 102 Mobile: 102 Rescue Service Landline: 112 Mobile: 112 Astana firefighting and accident rescue operations service Landline: 101 Mobile: 101

Astana Cellular Communications Companies Active Locations: 2 Pervaya Street and 21 Barayeva Street Phone: 8 (727) 258 80 00, for mobile 7070 (free of charge) URL: http://www.activ.kz/ Hours: 24 Beeline Phone: 8 (727) 350 05 00 URL: http://mobile.beeline.kz/ Dalacom Address: 5 Republic Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 59 17 00 URL: http://www.dalacom.kz Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00 am – 6:00 pm Sat 10:00 am-2:00 pm Kcell Location: Astana, Kabanbai-Batyr ave., 10 Phone: 8 (7172) 24 40 07 ext. 5007 URL: http://www.kcell.kz/ Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00 am-8:00 pm Sat - 9:00 am-6:00 pm Sun - 11:00 am-6:00 pm Pathword Location: 30 Republic Avenue Phone 8 (7172) 59 17 00, 8(7172) 21 77 77 URL: http://www.pathword.kz/ Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00 am-6:00 pm Sat 10:00 am-6:00 pm Tele 2 Location: 12 Republic Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 59-19-24, 8-800-0-800-707 Mobile: 611 URL: http:// tele2.kz Hours: Mon-Fr: 09:00 - 19:00 Sat-Sun: 10:00 - 18:00

Astana City Medical Emergency Service Landline: 103 Mobile: 103 General Information for Astana Landline: 109 Mobile: 109 Service “051” (Directory Assistance) Landline: 051 Mobile: 109

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION WHEN IN ASTANA Courier Services BaidEx Address: 12 Momushuly Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 45 79 16, 8 (700) 459 87 47, 8 (707) 323 50 25 Direct Delivery Address: 12a Kazhymukan Street - 9th floor Phone: 8 (7172) 55 62 62 Mobile: 8 (707) 782 22 18 URL: http://www.dd.kz/ FedEx Address: 38 Tulebaev Street Phone: 8 (7273) 56 38 00 URL: http://fedex.com/kz/ Garant Post Service Address: 9 Lomonosov Street, # 203 Phone: 8 (7172) 215-458 URL: http://www.gpserv.kz/ Pony Express Tel.: 8 (727) 258 33 33, 8 (727) 317 26 26 URL: http://www.ponyexpress.kz/

Department for Emergency Situations (Astana) Landline: 32 31 98 Mobile: 8 (7172) 32 31 98 Fire Department of Astana City Landline: 37 41 74 Mobile: 8 (7172) 37 41 74 Astana City Telecommunication Center (Astanatelecom) Landline: 58 07 61 Mobile: 8 (7172) 58 0761 Astana City International Airport (information) Landline: 77 70 50 Mobile: 8 (7172) 77 70 50 Railway Station (information) Landline: 93 39 26 Mobile: 8 (7172) 93 39 26 Bus Station (information) Landline: 38 11 35, 39 85 04 Mobile: 8 (7172) 38 11 35

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i Consulate of Afghanistan

Address: 2 Sholnik microdistrict, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 227 23 90

Consulate of Australia

Address: 174B Furmanov Street, 3rd Floor, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 261 51 60 E-mail: ahc.kaz@gmail.com http://www.russia.embassy.gov.au

Consulate Belgium

Address: 117/86 Kazybek Bi Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 260 68 63 E-mail: belconsul@nursat.kz

Consulate of Britain

Address: Samal-2 microdistrict, 97 Zholdasbekov Street , building 2A, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 250 61 91/92 e-mail: AlmatyVizaGeneral@fco.gov.uk

Consulate of China

Address: 12 Baitasov Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 270 02 21

Consulate of Czech Republic Address: 5 Al-Fara bi Avenue, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 277 70 93 e-mail: commerce_almaata@mzv.cz

Consulate of Germany

Address: 62 Kosmonavtov Street Phone: 8 (727) 262 83 41 46/49 E-mail: info@almaty.diplo.de www.almaty.diplo.de

Consulate of Hungary

Address: 4 Musabayev Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 255 13 08, 8 (727) 258 18 36 E-mail: mission.ala@kum.hu

Consulate of India

Address: 71 Maulenov Street, 3rd floor, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 278 44 55/65 Email: cons.almaty@mea.gov.in

Consulate of Italy

Address: 41 Kazybek bi Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 266 36 09

Consulate of Japan

Address: 41 Kazybek bi Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 298 06 00

Consulate of Korea

Address: 15 Teplichnaya Street Phone: 8 (727) 263 96 95

Address: 52a Ivanilov Street, Gornyi Gigant, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 263 26 60/91, 8 (727) 263 29 89, 8 (727) 263 62 28/29 E-mail: embassy_news@mail.ru

Consulate of France

Consulate of Kyrgyzstan

Consulate of Egypt

Address: 173Furmanov Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 258 25 04/08, 8 (727) 258 21 81 E-mail: ambafrance@mail.ru

Address: 30A Lugansky Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 264 22 12 E-mail: consul.agencykg@mail.kz

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Consulate of Lithuania

Consulate of Spain

Embassy of Malaysia

Consulate of Tajikistan

Address: 15 Iskanderovo Street, Gorny Gygant Phone: 8 (727) 263 10 40 http://kz.mfa.lt Address: 9A Rubinshtein Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 333 44 83/4/5 E-mail:mwalmaty@nursat.kz malalmaty@kln.gov.my

Consulate of Netherlands

Address: 103 Nauryzbay batyr Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 250 37 73 E-mail: alm@minbuza.nl

Consulate of Poland

Address: 9 Jarkentskaya Street, Gornyi Gigant Phone: 8 (727) 258 16 17; 8 (727) 258 15 51 E-mail: ambpol@poland.kz, polkonsulat@poland.kz

Consulate of the Russian Federation

Address: 4 Jandosov Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 274 50 87, 8 (727) 274 61 22 E-mail: gcrusalmaata@gmail.com

Consulate of Singapore

Address: 21 Koktem-3, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 270 45 61 E-mail: Singapore@nationalbank.kz

Consulate of Slovakia Address: Almaty region, Energetic village, 1A Tikhii, Phone: 8 (727) 297 74 43 E-mail: obeo.almaty@mail.ru

Address: 20A Kazybek bi Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 293 02 40, 8 (727) 293 02 66 E-mail: almaty@mcx.es Address: 16 Sanatornaya Str eet, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 269 70 59 E-mail: tajemb_almaty@ok.kz

Consulate of Turkey

Address: 29 Tole bi Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 278 41 65/77 E-mail: almatyturkbe@gmail.com

Consulate of Turkmenistan Address: 137 Furmanov Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 272 69 44

Consulate of Ukraine

Address: 13a Makatayev Street, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 230 16 00

Consulate of United States of America Address: 97 Zholdasbekov Street, Samal-2b district, Almaty Phone: 8 (727) 250 76 12

Embassy of Uzbekistan

Address: 36 Baribayev Street Phone: 8 (727) 291 78 86 Consulate phone: 8 (727) 291 02 35 E-mail: emb-Uzbekistan@mail.ru

Consulate of Yemen Address: 20B Begalin Street Phone: 8 (727) 291 99 72 E-mail: yemen@nursat.kz

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com113


TRANSPORTATION & TRAVEL

Weather Essentials Almaty Month Low High Jan

17°F / -8°C

33°F / 0°C

Feb

19°F / -7°C

35°F / 2°C

Mar

29°F / -2°C 46°F / 8°C

Apr

43°F / 6°C

May

52°F / 11°C 71°F / 22°C

Jun

60°F / 16°C 81°F / 27°C

Jul

65°F / 18°C 86°F / 30°C

Aug

62°F / 17°C 85°F / 29°C

Sept

53°F / 11°C 75°F / 24°C

Oct

40°F / 5°C

61°F / 16°C

Nov

30°F / -1°C

46°F / 8°C

Dec

22°F / -6°C

36°F / 2°C

62°F / 17°C

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ALMATY

GENERAL

AIRLINES

Almaty International Airport Address: 2 Beimbet Mailin Street, Almaty 050039 Phone: 8 (727) 270 33 33 www.almatyairport.com

Air Astana Phone: 8( 727) 258 41 35, 258 41 36, 244 44 77, 259 87 03 Hours: 9 am-8:30 pm www.airastana.com

Almaty - 2 Train Station Address: 1 Abilai Khana Prospekt Phone: +7 (727) 296 15 44

Air Travel System Phone: 8 (727) 272 27 02, 272 26 99 Hours: 9 am-7 pm www.czechairlines.com

Almaty - 1 Train Station Address: 1 Seifullin Street Phone: +7 (727) 296 33 92 Almaty Bus Station Address: 73 Mate Salki Street Phone: 8 (727) 226 26 44, 226 14 91, 225 08 87 Almaty Sayran Bus Station Address: 294 Tole bi Phone: 8 (727) 276 26 44, 276 26 77

Taxis AZIA Taxi Phone: +7 (727) 299 49 49 Hours: 24 hours Garage Taxi Phone: +7 (727) 276 29 07, 299 90 00 Hours: 24 hours www.garage999.kz Hertz Taxi and Car Rental Phone: +7 (727) 245 88 03 Hours: 24 hours / www.hertz.kz Mega Taxi Phone: +7 (727) 233 31 11 Hours: 24 hours Almaty Taxi Phone: +7 (727) 255 53 33 Hours: 24 hours Service-Taxi Phone: +7 (727) 230 22 03 Hours: Around the clock Taxi Profi Phone: +7 (727) 270 70 70 Hours: 24 hours www.taxiprestige.kz Ekipazh Plus Phone: +7 (727) 270 08 88 Hours: 24 Hours Express Taxi Phone: +7 (727) 260 06 00 Hours: 24 hours www.express-taxi.kz Elit Taxi Phone: +7 (727) 278 03 33 Hours: 24 hours www.nettaxi.kz

Air Control Phone: 8 (727) 244 15 90 Hours: 9 am-7 pm www.aircontrol.kz Asiana Airlines Phone: 8 (727) 270 32 34, 270 32 35 Hours: 9 am-7 pm www.flyasiana.com Brauch Office of Lufthansa Cargo Ag in Kz Phone: 8 (727) 388 89 32 Hours: 9 am- 8 pm www.lhcargo.com British Midland Airways Phone: 8 (727) 272 40 40 Hours: 3am-8 pm www.flybmi.com Carlson Wagonlit Travel Kazakhstan Phone: 8 (727) 377 88 77 Hours: 9 am-7 pm www.carlsonwagonlit.kz China Southern Airlines Phone: 8 (727) 250 94 85 Hours: 9 am-7 pm www.cs-air.com Clintondale Aviation Phone: 8 (727) 257 45 14, 383 83 96 Hours: 9 am-6 pm www.clintondale.com Etihad Airways Phone: 8 (727) 330 30 00 Hours: 9 am-7 pm www.etihadairways.com KlM Royal Dutch Airlines Phone: 8 (727) 250 77 47, 330 21 42 Hours: 9 am-7 pm www.klm.kz Branch Office of Lufthansa Cargo Ag in Kz Phone: 8 (727) 388 89 32 Hours: 9 am-8 pm www.lhcargo.com Turkish Airlines Phone: 8(727) 250 62 20, 333 38 49, 250 62 19

Hours: 9am-8pm www.thy.com BMI Phone: 8 (727) 25 050 52, 272 40 40 Hours: 9 am-6 pm www.flybmi.com East Wing Phone: 8(727) 250 55 42 Hours: 9am- 6pm

CAR RENTAL COMPANIES Dimal Car Rental – Almaty Address: 6 Rozybakiev street 125/1 office 15, Pushkin street 23 office 6 Phone: 8 (727) 275 11 73 www.dimal.kz Dixie Travel Address: 29 Zheltoksan Street, office 3 Phone: 8 (727) 279 28 08, 327 10 10 http://dixie.kz ASAP Car Address: 92 Panfilov, office 60 Phone: 8 (727) 234 78 39, 8 (777) 270 91 87 Autodom Address: 273A Furmanova Phone: 8 (727) 244 34 81 http://autodom-t.kz Dilizhans Address: 185 Baizakova Phone: 8 (327) 268 37 22, 8 (333) 216 55 26 www.diligence-kz.narod.ru Almaty International Airport Address: 2 Beimbet Mailin Street, the 1st level Phone: 8 (727) 270 33 33 www.almatyairport.com ARD Kazkhstan Address: 208 Zharokova Phone: 8 (727) 329 43 49 www.ard-ts-kz.ucoz.ru Prestige Taxi Address: 262 Kazybayeva Street, Kulager district Phone: 8 (727) 270 70 70 www.taxiprestige.kz Hertz Address: 42 Timiryazeva, 15/3B office Phone: 8 (727) 245 88 03, 245 88 51, 8 (777) 355 66 55 www.hertz.kz Exotic Limo Address: 53 Dostyk Street

Phone: 8 (727) 291 62 90

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ALMATY EMERGENCY SERVICES Fire prevention - 101 Police - 102 Ambulance - 103 Gas service - 104 Rescue - 112 or 051

Referral Services

Almaty International Airport 006 or 155 Railroad Station Almaty one 105, 8 (727) 296 33 92 Railroad Station Almaty two 8 (727)296 15 44 Bus station Sayran 8 (727) 276 26 44 Bus station Sayakhat 8 (727) 230 25 29 Evacuator (angels.kz) 8 (727) 233 13 42 Free phone referral service 8 (727) 327 00 98 Free phone referral service - 080 Address bureau - 8 (727) 254 46 96 Lost-property office 8 (727) 292 14 39, 8 (727) 328 22 33 Chargeable phone referral service 088 or 177

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Almaty cellular Communications Companies Kcell Address: Samal-2, 100 - K’cell Main Office Hours: Mon-Fri 9 am-8 pm, Sat 9 am-6 pm http://kcell.kz Activ Address: 2G Timiryazev Street Phone: 8 (727) 258-80-00 Hours: 24 hours Mobile: 3030 http://activ.kz Dalacom Address: 115/105 Kunayeva Street Phone: 8 (727) 259 77 00 Hours: Mon-Fri 9 am-7 pm http://dalacom.kz Beeline Address: 55 Tole bi Street Phone: 8 (727) 350 05 00, 8 (727) 350 06 00 Hours: Daily 9 am-8 pm Mobile: 0611 http://mobile.beeline.kz

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION WHEN IN ALMATY

Courier Services BaidEx Address: 12 Momushuly Avenue Phone: 8 (7172) 45 79 16, 8 (700) 459 87 47, 8 (707) 323 50 25 Direct Delivery Address: 12a Kazhymukan Street - 9th floor Phone: 8 (7172) 55 62 62 Mobile: 8 (707) 782 22 18 URL: http://www.dd.kz/ FedEx Address: 38 Tulebaev Street Phone: 8 (7273) 56 38 00 URL: http://fedex.com/kz/ Garant Post Service Address: 9 Lomonosov Street, # 203 Phone: 8 (7172) 215-458 URL: http://www.gpserv.kz/ Pony Express Tel.: 8 (727) 258 33 33, 8 (727) 317 26 26 URL: http://www.ponyexpress.kz/

Pathword Address: 115/105 Kunayeva Phone: 8 (727) 259 77 00, 8(727) 258 17 77 Hours: Mon-Fri 9am-7 pm Tele2 Adress: Microdistrict 11, 3D Altynsarina street Phone: 8 (727) 3-550-707, 8-800-0-800-707 Mobile: 611 Hours: Mon-Fr: 09:00 - 19:00, Sat-Sun: 10:00 - 18:00 http:// tele2.kz

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DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS Embassy of Afghanistan

2,3 Karaotkel Microdistrict, Astana A Phone: +7 (7172) 57 14 42/43/44 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 04 54 E-mail: Af_embassyalmaty@yahoo.com Website: www.afghanembassy.kz Consular section: 21 Dubok, 2nd Microdistrict, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 255 6324 Fax: +7 (7272) 255 5663

Embassy of Armenia

19 Kyz Zhibek Street Komsomolski Microdistrict, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 40 20 15/17 Fax: +7 (7172) 40 19 70 E-mail: armeniaemb.kz@gmail.com

Diplomatic Town, B-6, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 15 81 +7 (7172) 24 10 97 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 15 32 E-mail: astana@azembassy.kz General Consulate: 12, 4th Microdistrict, Aktau Phone: +7 (7292) 33 67 06/07

6/1 Kabanbai Batyr Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 46 82/84 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 47 43 Website: www.brasembastana.kz

Embassy of Finland

Astana Tower 17th floor 12 Samal, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 44 21 21 Fax: +7 (7172) 44 21 16

B

C

C-4 Diplomatic town, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 32 58 Tel/Fax: +7 (7172) 24 34 26 E-mail: astana.emb.@mfa.gov.ge astana.con@mfa.gov.ge

Embassy of Czech Republic

Arman Business Centre 6 Sary Arka Street, 13th Floor, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 66 04 72 Fax: +7 (7172) 66 01 42 E-mail: astana@embassy.mzv.cz Office in Almaty: 2A Nurly Tau Business Centre 5 Al-Farabi Avenue 8th Floor Phone: +7 (7272) 77 70 93 Fax: +7 (7272) 77 70 92 E-mail: commerce_almaata@mzv.cz 30 Sarayshyk Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 28 60 67 +7 (7172) 24 18 30 Fax: +7 (7172) 28 60 50 E-mail: embassy.astana@mfa.gov.eg Cultural Centre: 15 Teplichnaya Street, Almaty

116EDGEKZ.com No. 7 SEPTEMBER 2012

Embassy of Italy

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E

62 Kosmonavtov Street, Chubary, 5th Floor, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 97 78 43 Fax: +7 (7172) 97 78 42 Office in Almaty: 41 Kazybek Bi Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 98 06 00 Fax: +7 (7272) 98 06 01

109 Karaotkel, 2nd Microdistrict Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 56 37 14 +7 (7172) 56 37 55 +7 (7172) 56 37 84 Fax: +7 (7172) 56 38 26 E-mail: gremb.ast@mfa.gr 62 Kosmonavtov Street, 9th Floor Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 55 03 23 Fax: +7 (7172) 55 03 24 E-mail: mission.ast@kum.hu General consulate: 4 Musabayev Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 255 1308 +7 (7272) 258 1836 Fax: +7 (7272) 258 1837 E-mail: mission.ala@kum.hu

Embassy of India

5th floor, Kaskad Business Centre 6/1 Kabanbai Batyr Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 92 57 00/03 Fax: +7 (7172) 92 57 15 E-mail: hoc.astana@mea.gov.in

62 Kosmonavtov Street Chubary Microdistrict, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 33 90 +7 (7172) 24 38 68 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 36 86 Email: ambasciata.astana@esteri.it Email: visti.astana@esteri.it Consular Section: Tel/Fax: +7 (7172) 91 03 08 E-mail: consolare.astana@esteri.it Honorary Consulate: 40 Kazybek Bi Street, Almaty Phone/Fax: +7 (7272) 266 36 09

Embassy of Japan

Embassy of Greece

Embassy of Hungary

B-7 Diplomatic town, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 25 11/12 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 15 37 E-mail: iranembassy@itte.kz

Embassy of Israel 8 Auezov Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 68 87 39 Fax: +7 (7172) 68 87 35 E-mail: ambass-sec@astana.mfa.gov.il

62 Kosmonavtov Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 79 12 00 +7 (7172) 79 12 80 Fax: +7 (7172) 79 12 13 E-mail: info@astana.diplo.de General Consulate: 2 Ivanilova Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 262 83 41/46/49 Fax: +7 (7272) 50 62 76 E-mail: info@almaty.diplo.de www.almaty.diplo.de

18 Kabanbay Batyr Avenue, Office 2 Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 24 67 +7 (7172) 44 94 59 E-mail: natemdacu@mail.online.kz Website: www.cubadiplomatica.cu/kazajstan

Embassy of Iran

19 Konayev Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 28 60 92/93 E-mail: astemb@iraqmfamail.com

Embassy of Germany

Embassy of Cuba

Office in Almaty: 71 Maulenov Street, 3rd Floor, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 278 44 55/65 Fax: +7 (7272) 278 46 85 E-mail: cons.almaty@mea.gov.in

Embassy of Iraq

62 Kosmonavtov Street, 4th Floor Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 79 51 00 Fax: +7 (7172) 79 51 01 Office in Almaty: 173 Furmanov Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7273) 96 98 00 Fax: +7 (7273) 96 98 20 E-mail: ambafrance@mail.ru

Embassy of Georgia

28 Kabanbai Batyr Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 79 35 61 +7 (7172) 79 35 83 (consular section) Fax: +7 (7172) 79 35 65 Trade-Economic Department: B-2 Diplomatic town Phone: +7 (7172) 24 25 10 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 13 81 General Consulate: 12 Baitasov Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 270 02 21

Embassy of Egypt

F

Embassy of France

Embassy of China

Embassy of Azerbaijan

Embassy of Brazil

Phone: +7 (7272) 63 96 95 Fax: +7 (7272) 56 98 02 Trade department: 51 Kaldayakov Street, Office 33 Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 291 8997 Fax: +7 (7272) 293 0391 E-mail: almaty@tamseel-esc.gov.eg

62, Kosmonavtov Street, 6th Floor Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 55 62 00/19 Fax: +7 (7172) 55 62 12 E-mail: BritishEmbassy@mail.online.kz Website: www.ukinkz.fco.gov.uk Office in Almaty: 97-2A Zholdasbekov Street Samal-2nd Microdistrict, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 250 61 91/92 Fax: +7 (7272) 250 71 12 E-mail: AlmatyVizaGeneral@fco.gov.uk

34 Karasay Batyr Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 250 11 51 Fax: +7 (7272) 258 24 93 E-mail: almat@international.gc.ca Office in Astana: 6 Sary Arka Street Phone: +7 (7172) 79 30 64 Fax: +7 (7172) 79 30 69

62 Kosmonavtov Street, 9th floor, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 97 78 69/78/79 Fax: +7 (7172) 97 78 50 E-mail: astana-ob@bmeia.gv.at

62 Kosmonavtov Street, 3rd Floor Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 97 44 85/86 Fax: +7 (7172) 97 78 49 E-mail: embassy.astana@diplobel.fed.be Trade-economic department: 5th floor office 501 2A 5 Al-Faraby Avenue, Almaty E-mail: almaty@awex-wallonia.kz

Embassy of Britain

Embassy of Canada

Embassy of Austria

Embassy of Belgium

Z

Isker Business Centre 15 Sary Arka Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 90 15 15 Fax: +7 (7172) 90 18 19 E-mail: astanabulemb@mail.ru

174B Furmanov Street, 3rd Floor Almaty 050013, Kazakhstan Phone: +7 (727) 2615160 E-mail: ahc.kaz@gmail.com Website: www.russia.embassy.gov.au

35 Kenesary Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 32 48 29 +7 (7172) 32 06 65 +7 (7172) 32 00 34 +7 (7172) 32 48 49 Fax: +7 (7172) 32 18 70 Consular section: Phone: +7 (7172) 32 48 49 E-mail: Kazakhstan@belembassy.org Diplomatic Mission in Almaty: 115/157 Zheltoksan Street Tel/Fax: +7 (7272) 272 9787 E-mail: Kazakhstan@belembassy.org

D

Embassy of Bulgaria

Consulate of Australia

Embassy of Belarus

i

J

Embassy of Jordan

8/2 Novostroitelnaya Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 52 54/55 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 52 53 E-mail: astana@fm.gov.jo

Embassy of Korea

H

6/1 Kabanbai Batyr Street, 9th Floor Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 92 55 91/92/93 Fax: +7 (7172) 92 55 96 Office in Almaty: 52a Ivanilov Street, Gornyi Gigant Phone: +7 (727) 263 26 60/91 +7 (727) 263 29 89 +7 (727) 263 62 28/29 Fax: +7 (727) 264 33 51 E-mail: embassy_news@mail.ru

Embassy of Kyrgyzstan

I

B-5 Diplomatic Town, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 20 24 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 24 14 Consular Section: Phone: +7 (7172) 24 20 40 E-mail: kr@mail.online.kz

K


i General Consulate: 30A Lugansky Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (727) 264 22 12 Fax: +7 (7272) 64 22 11 E-mail: consul.agencykg@mail.kz

Embassy of Latvia 6/1 Kabanbai Batyr Street, Office 122, Astana Phone/fax: +7 (7172) 92 53 17 Fax: +7 (7172) 92 53 19 E-mail: embassy.kazakhstan@mfa.gov.lv Email: consulate.kazakhstan@mfa.gov.lv

Phone: +7 (7172) 55 11 00 Fax: +7 (7172) 55 11 99 E-mail: emb.astana@mfa.no

Embassy of Oman

L

3 Novostroitelnaya Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 18 61/62/64 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 18 63

Embassy of Pakistan

Beijing Palace Business Centre 27 Syganak, Astana E-mail: parepalmaty@yahoo.com

2 Tauelsizdik Street, 13th Floor, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 79 35 15 Fax: +7 (7172) 79 35 16 E-mail: embassylebanon-kz@hotmail.com

37 Kabanbay Batyr Street, Block 4 Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 28 75 57/62 Fax: +7 (7172) 28 75 55 E-mail: pal.emb@rambler.ru

Embassy of Libya

Embassy of Poland

Embassy of Lithuania 6/1, Kabanbay Batyr ave. BC Kaskad, office 103 010000 Astana Tel.: +7 7172 925 850 Fax: +7 7172 925 853 Office in Almaty: Gornyj Gigant, 15, Iskanderov Str. 050059 Almaty Tel.: +7727 263 1040, +7727 263 2505 Fax: +7727 263 1975 E-mail is common: amb.kz@urm.lt Website: http://kz.mfa.lt/

M

28 Sarayshyk Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 28 62 03 Fax: +7 (7172) 28 62 03 E-mail: amb@romania.kz

1 Musabayev Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 69 35 36 Fax: +7 (7272) 58 17 27 Consulate: +7 (7272) 229 37 90 E-mail: info@mongemb.kz 62 Kosmonavtov Street, Office 801 Astana Phone: +7 (7272) 55 54 50 Fax: +7 (7272) 55 54 74 E-mail: ast@minbuza.nl E-mail: nl_embassy.astana@yahoo.com Office in Almaty: 103 Nauryzbay Batyr Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 50 37 73 Fax: +7 (7272) 50 37 72 E-mail: alm@minbuza.nl

Embassy of Norway

17th floor, Astana Tower, 12 Samal Astana

20A Saraishyk Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 28 61 23 Fax: +7 (7172) 28 61 33 E-mail: qatarembassy.astana@gmail.com

Embassy of Romania

Embassy of Mongolia

Embassy of Netherlands

Embassy of Qatar

N

Embassy of Turkey

Consulate: 78 Mukhit Street, Uralsk Phone: 8 (7112) 51 16 26 Fax: 8 (7112) 24 24 86 Trade Missions: 39 Kenesary Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 32 77 89 Fax: +7 (7172) 32 81 51

6/1 Kabanbay Batyr Street, Office 23, 101, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 92 58 70/73 Fax: +7 (7172) 92 58 74 E-mail: astanaturk@gmail.com Office in Almaty: 29 Tole Bi Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 78 41 65/77 Fax: +7 (7272) 78 41 68 E-mail: almatyturkbe@gmail.com

4 Jandosov Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 75 49 55 Fax: +7 (7272) 75 46 06 E-mail: torgrf-astana@mail.ru

Embassy of Turkmenistan

19 Akyn Sara Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 92 57 52/53/54/55 Fax: +7 (7172) 92 57 62 E-mail: kzemb@mofa.gov.sa

S

Embassy of Slovakia

5 Karaotkel – 2nd Microdistrict, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 56 37 90 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 20 48 Defense Attaché: Phone: +7 (7172) 24 40 55 E-mail: zuastana1@post.sk Trade Mission: 1A Tikhii, Energetic vil. Almatinskaya Oblast Phone/Fax: +7 (7272) 97 74 43 E-mail: obeo.almaty@mail.ru

Embassy of South Africa

6/1 Kabanbay Batyr Street, 17th Floor Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 92 53 27/28/29 Fax: +7 (7172) 92 53 29 E-mail: cons@saembassy.kz Email: administration@saembassy.kz

Embassy of Spain

Q

R

Embassy of the Russian Federation

4 Barayev Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 44 08 06 +7 (7172) 44 07 93/83/86/92/89 +7 (7172) 44 08 01 Fax: +7 (7172) 44 08 07 +7 (7172) 32 22 09 E-mail: rfekz@yandex.ru Website: www.rfembassy.kz Consular section: Phone: +7 (7172) 44 07 83 +7 (7172) 44 04 80 Fax: +7 (7172) 44 07 84 General Consulate: 4 Jandosov Street Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 74 50 87, 274 61 22 Fax: +7 (7272) 74 71 68/72 E-mail: gcrusalmaata@gmail.com

Z DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS

Embassy of Saudi Arabia

Isker Business Centre, 15 Sary Arka Street, 6th Floor Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 90 10 11/14 Fax: +7 (7172) 90 10 12 Email: joanna.jessa@poland.kz General Consulate: 9 Jarkentskaya Street, Gornyi Gigant Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 58 16 17 +7 (7272) 58 15 51 Fax: +7 (7272) 58 15 50 E-mail: ambpol@poland.kz E-mail: polkonsulat@poland.kz Trade Mission: 72 Zatayevich Street Phone/Fax: +7 (7272) 64 79 11 +7 (7272) 63 44 27 E-mail: almaty@pol-trade.kz

6, 36-8 Street, Karaotkel, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 56 37 64/5/6 Fax: +7 (7172) 56 37 23

9A Rubinshtein Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7273) 33 44 83/4/5 Fax: +7 (7273) 87 28 25 E-mail:mwalmaty@nursat.kz

P

Embassy of Palestine

Embassy of Lebanon

Embassy of Malaysia

O

D

47-25 Kenesary Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 20 15 35/6/7/8/9/0 Fax: +7 (7172) 20 03 17 +7 (7172) 20 02 24 (consular section) E-mail: emb.astana@maec.es Trade-Economic Department: 20 A, Kazybek Bi Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 93 02 40 +7 (7172) 293 02 66 Fax: +7 (7272) 93 02 59 E-mail: almaty@mcx.es

8/1 Otyrar Street, Astana Phone/Fax: +7 (7172) 21 08 82 +7 (7172) 21-08-23 Military Attaché: +7 7172 20-12-95 E-mail: tm_emb@astanatelecom.kz Consular section: 6/109, Abay Street, Almaty Phone/Fax: +7 (7272) 50 96 04

Embassy of Ukraine

41 Kenesary Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 32 60 42 Fax: +7 (7172) 32 68 11 Consulate: Phone/Fax: +7 (7172) 32 43 25 E-mail: embassy_ua@inbox.kz General Consulate 13a Makatayev Street , Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 30 16 00 Fax: +7 (7272) 30 26 01 E-mail: uaconsul@gmail.com Trade Mission: Phone/Fax: +7 (7272) 32 74 80 E-mail: tem_ua@mbox.kz

Embassy of the United Arab Emirates C-15 Diplomatic Town, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 36 75 +7 (7172) 28 60 47 +7 (7172) 28 60 75 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 36 76 E-mail: emaratembassy_kz@yahoo.com

Embassy of the United States

12 Samal District, 17th Floor, Astana

3, 22-23 Street, Ak Bulak 4, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 70 21 00 Fax: +7 (7172) 34 08 90 Consular Section: Phone: 70 21 00 Fax: +7 (7172) 70 22 80 E-mail: info@usembassy.kz

Embassy of Switzerland

Embassy of Uzbekistan

Embassy of Sweden

8th floor Kosmonavtov Street, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 97 98 92/93 Fax: +7 (7172) 97 98 94 Visa section: Phone: +7 (7172) 97 98 95 Fax: +7 (7172) 97 98 96

Embassy of Tajikistan

15 Marsovaya Street, T Chubary Aicrodistrict, Astana Phone/Fax: +7 (7172) 24 09 29 E-mail: embassy_tajic@mbox.kz Office in Almaty: 16 Sanatornaya Street, Baganashyl vil. Phone/Fax: +7 (7272) 69 70 59 E-mail: tajemb_almaty@ok.kz

U

36 Baribayev Street, Almaty Phone: +7 (7272) 91 78 86 Fax: +7 (7272) 91 10 55 Consulate Phone: +7 (7272) 91 02 35 E-mail: emb-Uzbekistan@mail.ru

Embassy of the Vatican

20 Zelenaya Alleya Street V Chubary Microdistrict, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 24 16 03, +7 (7172) 24 12 69 Fax: +7 (7172) 24 16 04 E-mail: nuntius_kazakhstan@lycos.com

Embassy of Vietnam

6 Sary Arka Avenue, Astana Phone: +7 (7172) 66 03 75 Fax: +7 (7172) 66 03 79

(Please note: the telephone numbers listed here are for dialing in Astana from a cell phone. For more information on making telephone calls, please see the “Practical Information When in Kazakhstan” section.) SEPTEMBER 2012 No. 7 EDGEKZ.com117


118EDGEKZ.com No. 7 september 2012

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10/08/2012 7:17 ΜΜ



September 2012

KAZAKHSTAN September 2012

NO. 07

Kazakh Athletes Reach New Olympic Heights GAME, SET MATCH edgekz.com

Kazakhstan FALLS IN LOVE WITH TENNIS

Staying Awhile

Expats Build Lives in Kazakhstan

Beyond the Steppe

Kazakhstan’s Canyons, Lakes and Forests

Kazakhstan and the EU

Bridging East and West

What’s Hot in KZ:

Nightclubs, Bars, Restaurants, Arts & Culture and Much More edgekz.com


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