PORTFOLIO Estonian Academy of Arts Faculty of Design Fashion Design BA III
Tallinn 2018
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UMA....6 NGBA....16 ICELAND....28 REPETITIF....38 ILLUSTRATIONS....52
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When I started fashion designer journey in Estonian Academy of Arts I definitely did not have everything figured out. Still, I was always quite determined...I just thought, it is what I love and what I want to do. So I have got to try and do it. It is truly something I have desired for the past 7 years at least. I am passionate about solving problems and finding solutions to my wishes and dreams.
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On the second aspect I would definitely like to keep dealing with waste-design. We live in a world where we create and consume in a mindless amount and that leaves behind a huge amount of waste. I have a social responsibility to consider the products I create and put out into the world. By transforming waste into high-end products, it challenges the prevailing value systems by showing the true cost of things we purchase, and by giving a second life to clothes that are supposedly at the end of their life-cycles. I strongly believe that waste is a design flaw and I am passionate about finding creative solutions to this problem. To me, sustainable fashion is about creating a positive balance in the design process by innovating with the excess we already have, while protecting depleted resources. It is a very challenging yet fulfilling form of fashion because it requires research, collaborative work and transparency.
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Learning fashion design for four years has gotten me to a point where I have realized that textile design is the main direction on what I want to commit to for the upcoming years. On the second semester I found myself creating patterns on the looms that I have always dreamt of. To create your own fabric with its own story. To be in the process from creating the pattern of the fabric to the end result that a person could wear. There is still so much to learn, because the world is vast and that is what excites me even more and more to create new outputs in textile design. As a designer it is important to be part of the process - only then you can see and feel the whole process.
I am grateful for everything that has helped me discover myself even more. One can do that only by following the heart and self-developing through deepest passions. I prefer working on something interesting that feeds my soul, only then I can achieve more, making a bigger impact.
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Ethnographic collection “UMA” is inspired by the ceremonial cloth of the Setu. The word itself refers as own in the Setu dialect. In the households of Setu people, the holy corner is respected til today. The holy corner is decorated with a painted shawl, in front of which there is usually an oil lamp burning. The woven shawl is surrounding the holy icons. The ceremonial shawl has a lot of patterns woven into it with a red wool. In everyday life, the ceremonial shawl is covered with a white shawl that has embroidered ornaments. The Setu people have preserved a lot of tales of their saints and are still following faith-related traditions. Both elderly and young people celebrate at the holiday events, following the ecclesiastical traditions. All the fabrics used, are woven of genuine wool on looms by the author. To emphasise the distinctive look, lower ends of both sleeves, skirt and dress have fringes, making every garment close to the heart when it comes to old traditions. Tutors: Piret Puppart , Margarita Teeääre Model: Kairiin Koddala Photo: Kristiin Elmat Make-up: Triinu Halliste
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1 1 - Hotel Particulier Montmartre 2 - Inside Allison Sarofim and Stuart Parr’s 2016 Halloween Ball
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ERASMUS+ project Tutors: Katrin Maria Karadottir, Linda BjĂśrg Arnadottir Model: Aune Tammar Photo: Christina Peterson Make-up: Kadri-Katariina Adorov
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The patterns in the collection are inspired by the nature of both Iceland and Vietnam. Collection author cut out the patterns with a laser and used them as a template for dyeing. The purses are not only imitating, but they actually are handmade looms. All pieces in the collection with fringes are made on looms.
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NBGA is inspired of three talented African-American women who played key roles in NASA’s early space efforts. All three brilliant African-American women working at NASA, who served as the brains behind one of the greatest operations in history. The visionary trio crossed all gender and race lines to inspire generations to dream big. NBGA is for these kind of women who, because they focuses on personal growth and self awareness, experiences a life, increasingly filled with love, joy, passion and most importantly FUN. A woman that understands that she has unlimited capacity to make her life anything she wants.
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With the isolation that comes with living on an island, the Icelandic sheep is one of the purest breeds of sheep in the world. There are about 800.000 sheep in Iceland and only 323.000 Icelanders. This means there are more than two sheep per human on the small island. While travelling in Iceland, it was nice to see that sheep were living wild and free. They could easily understand their owners whistling over mountains as a call for home. The cozy, practical and warm collection was inspired by the patchy and fluffy wool of those sheep. ERASMUS+ project Tutor: Dainius Bendikas
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TECHNICAL SKETCH A/W 2017 WOVEN COAT
WOVEN FABRIC
MAIN FABRIC
LINING
THREAD
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WOMEN’S WEAR
Description:
WOVEN COAT
Season:
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2017
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WOVEN SLEEVES A/W 2017 WOVEN COAT 1)
Space between two nails 0,5cm
3) 2)
4)
5) Pull thread out 1-6cm 6)
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WOMEN’S WEAR
Description:
WOVEN COAT
Season:
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2017
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LABEL INSTRUCTIONS LABEL PLACEMENT IN GARMENT
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Distance 2,5cm from neck seam Company label stiched at 0,1cm Size label centered under the company label
COMPANY LABEL
SIZE LABEL
7cm
3cm
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24mm
FOLD
1cm
12mm
10mm
WASH CARE INFORMATION AND LABEL A/W 2017 WOVEN COAT
WASH CARE INFORMATION
OUTER FABRIC
POLYESTER
CONSISTENCE
100% PES
LINING CONSISTENCE
100% PES
CLEANING
Non machine-washable, dry cleaning
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WASH CARE LABEL
WEARER’S LEFT SIDE SEAM
CENTER FOLD LINE 1cm
100% polyester
20cm
Non machinewashable Do not iron Do not use bleach Dry-cleanable Dry horizontally Made in ESTONIA
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WOMEN’S WEAR
Description:
WOVEN COAT
Season:
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2017
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The human kind has invented a mountain of superfluous needs. You keep buying and throwing away. Why do we have so many clothes, which almost always end up in landfill. Is this really our only option, or is it time to think about how to handle all that is left behind? Completely. And again. My fashion recycling story started already at a very young age, when my grandfather brought used clothes from the big city Tartu and started selling them in the countryside. It was an opportunity to remake it all. I believe it was the right start and this collection is a continuation of that idea. I am using damaged textiles, end-of-rolls, second-hand textiles and second-hand clothing through my entire collection. Tutors: Piret Puppart, Margarita Teeääre, Laivi Suurväli, Mariliis Niine Models: Kairiin Koddala, Photo: Marleen Muhuste, Kristiin Elmat Make-up: Triinu Halliste
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RIBBONS = RE-BO(R)N = NEW CYCLE
“GARBAGE” IS EVERYWEAR AND IT'S AMAZING
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N S O I T A R U S T L I L
From between the walls of a small fashion design department of Estonian Academy of Arts, three students, Marleen Afanasjev, Cärol Ott and Triin Tint have started a small business, Illustrations STUDIO. The combining tool for all three of us is a fanfare which helps us create picturesque works in both small and large formats. And of course, all our illustrations are hand-made unique originals.
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EDUCATION
2002 - 2013 2014 - 2018 2016
Keila School, Business direction Estonian Academy of Arts, Fashion Design Iceland Academy of the Arts, Fashion Design
2013 - ... 2014
Stylist at Elina Peetso Photography Collaboration with Eesti Kontsert, made new work clothes for employees ERKI fashion show - collection ‘‘M-M-M’’ Etnography internship with Anu Raud Fashion illustration exhibition with Britt Samason Stylist at Martin Dremljuga Photography Founder at Illustrations STUDIO Backstage assistant at ‘‘Seitsme maa ja mere taga’’ musical Backstage assistant at Baltika fashion show ERKI moeshow collection ‘‘UMA’’ Internship in Vietnam with Xenia Joost - designing for Oche and Yaly couture Worked as manager assistant in Molly Bracken clothing store ERKI fashion show collection ‘‘NBGA’’ Stylist at Tallinna TV Baltika AS Monton and Mosaic men’s clothing designer Redress Design Award semifinalist ERKI fashion show collection ‘‘REPETITIF’’
ACTIVITY
Marleen Afanasjev 12.09.1995 marleen.afanasjev@artun.ee +372 5804 6678
2015 2015 2015 2015 2015 - ... 2015
PROFESSIONAL
NAME DATE OF BIRTH CONTACT
2016 2016 2016 2017 2017 2017 2018
SKILLS
2018 2018
LAN GUAGES
COM PUTER
Adobe Photoshop Adobe Illustrator Adobe InDesign Kaledo Style Kaledo Print MS Powerpoint MS Word MS Excel
Estonian English Russian
Mother language Fluent Elementary
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