Let’sDigIn
Mexican food mania One thing Durango doesn’t lack: tastes from south of the border by Sinjin Eberle
chile so common across our neighbor state to the south. I spent eight years living in Albuquerque in the early 1990s, and thanks to my co-workers who knew all the nuances of that city’s food scene, I became indoctrinated in so many different choices across Albuquerque and Santa Fe, not to mention the tiny cafes and carnicerias in towns and villages across New Mexico. I think one of my favorite restaurants in the country is Cafe Pasquale’s in Santa Fe, but that is for another day. Gazpacho’s seems to be the most committed to the New Mexico style here, and I don’t know how many platters of green chile chicken enchiladas I have crushed over the years, but they are always an option if you are craving some Christmas (a red and green chile mix) any time of the year!
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ere’s a simple question: What is it about Mexican food that makes it so enjoyable, so incredibly scrumptious, and so tricky to get just right? And why are there so many different opinions about what’s right or what’s wrong for a type of food that nearly everyone loves to at least some degree? So many styles. So many different options. And so much opportunity for differences of opinion, points to debate and positions to stake out that you might wonder how anyone could ever be satisfied, let alone get a group to agree upon a spot to grab some enchiladas and a margarita. What is true Mexican food anyway? And does it even have to be “true” to be heartily chowed down late at night after a few too many cervezas? Is it possible for it to get all dressed up and dapper to be a highbrow option?
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Street tacos seem to be all the rage right now, with multiple brick-and-mortar shops and food Photo courtesy of Nayarit Restaurant trucks across town specializing in style craving. But clearly their strength is the simple, representative street food one with the seafood-influenced Pacific coastal might find on any corner in Juarez, Oaxaca style. I think their stews, like the Siete Mares or Juan Tabo (a big street in Albuquerque). I or the Molcajete de Mariscos, is where they recently had a couple of fish tacos from the really shine. These are the dishes I think are newly relocated Cuevas Tacos, now at Lola’s the most signature and unique in their Place, 725 E. 2nd Ave., and the fresh, bright, style. Every time one of those giant lava vibrant vegetables stacked on a supple, bowls full of octopus and shrimp and fish perfectly grilled slab of flaky white fish was and clams shows up in front of me, my a pleasant, energetic surprise. Seriously, the mind sparks back to standing on the sweetly acidic, vinegar pop of the pickled northern Colombian coast, where we onion and cilantro on that mildly spiced watched wooden fishing boats putter their but oh-so-tender grilled fish was divine. way back to shore loaded with the catch of When I moved here from Denver, one the day – and the tiny surfside huts with of the “features” I noticed right off the pots of boiling water, fresh tortillas and a bat was that Chipotle had not found our hot grill ready to get those lunches into the little dot on the map, and hopefully the competition from Zia, Nini’s and Macho’s hands of workers and tourists alike. Hiding in the back corner of the Main keeps them away a while longer. I love Mall is another option with great seafood cruising into Nini’s between downtown choices: Los Amigos Del Sur, which claims meetings and grabbing a quick burrito – its roots in a more Southern they have enough options of fillings and Mexico/Oaxaca/Chiapas style, with salsas to create exactly what I am craving classics like their delicious shrimp ceviche when I walk through the door. Zia, too, and Botanas Los Amigos (snacks with does a great job, especially with the friends?), with fresh oysters, shrimp and excellent rooftop patio at the north fish ceviche, and shrimp aquachile (a location. You can’t go wrong with a trio spicier version of ceviche.) The Botanas of their carnitas soft tacos and a nicely dish is formidable, with plenty to go balanced margarita out of a canning jar. around for a group of friends, and both That place was made for crisp fall days the bartender and the waitress were on the patio. supremely friendly and welcoming. Nayarit has been one of my favorites for years, featuring a broad enough menu that New Mexican food is its own animal of it can pretty much handle any Mexicancourse, with the traditional red and green
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Then there are the more family-oriented options like La Hacienda, Tequila’s and the new Mi Ranchito, which took over and remodeled the former Brew space early in the pandemic. These spots focus on a solid plate of food for an affordable price, and with their blend of traditional Mexican and TexMex fare, they do a fine job for locals and tourists alike. Lastly, while “fine-dining” Mexican may seem like an oxymoron, I think Cantera made a pretty good run at it before the pandemic wreaked havoc on the entire restaurant scene. Fortunately, they were able to pivot to a more take-out and streetoriented approach, rebranding as Taco Libre while keeping their lively and popular bar more or less intact. Let’s face it, those tamarindo margaritas are simply too delicious to give up, even if they may be more bougie than authentic. Regardless, Roberto’s bar is a lively spot to meet friends and wind down with a few of his signature cocktails. There was an upscale Mexican and tequila restaurant in Denver that I loved (Tamayo) and I think there could still be a place in the Durango market for another try at this when things stabilize. So while we likely can argue all day long about what’s right and what’s not about Mexican food in general, it’s hard to deny that for a town our size, we have many options in a number of different styles. From the food trucks and the coastal style to the family-forward and the more upscale, there are more than enough choices to argue about what’s hot and what’s not. The real question is, where do you want to hang out next?
