LOCAL PAIRINGS

LYRIC KITCHEN • BAR

Bringing Casual Class And Unique Fare To The Holiday Center

by Andrea Busche

For more than 30 years, Porter’s restaurant was a downtown Duluth staple. Taking up a good chunk of real estate inside the Holiday Center, it primarily served hungry Holiday Inn guests, but the general public was always welcome, too.

After a recent tip-to-tail renovation and rebranding by Lion Hotel Group, which owns Porter’s, the Holiday Inn & Suites, and the shopping and office complex that contains them Porter’s is no more. Say hello to the brand-new Lyric Kitchen * Bar.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Living by the mantra, “Good stuff. Not stuffy,” Lyric, which opened October 31st, is fresher and more hip, with a sleek, modern vibe. The food is unique and delish, and there are craft beers aplenty.

The name Lyric is reminiscent of Duluth’s rich history. The restaurant, located at 205 West Superior St., is found on the city block known as Duluth’s historic Lyric block.

Once home to grand theaters and touring opera companies, the Lyric block is even rumored to have been a featured stop for a visiting Babe Ruth. Lyric’s décor features some cool vintage photos of Duluth back in the day, which can be found scattered throughout the restaurant.

The Vibe

Lyric’s décor is undeniably modern. With concrete floors and pillars, dark wood tables, and metal light fixtures, the space features a deep brown and blue color scheme.

The space includes a dining room area, a bar, and a back room that can be reserved for private parties. TVs in the bar area are tuned into the latest Vikes or Wild game, and soft, super chill music plays in the background of the dining room … think Jack Johnson and Bobby McFerrin.

The washrooms sparkle with fresh white tile and chrome, and feature an interesting, Duluth-themed wallpaper. The bar is enormous and stunning, and the ceilings in the bar feature shiny, metal tiles, which naturally draw the eye upward.

You can enter Lyric either via

Superior Street, or by coming in through the Holiday Center. Parking is available in the Holiday Inn parking ramp, and Lyric will validate your parking.

And, in case I didn’t stress it enough already, just one more thing must be said about the vibe: Lyric loves Duluth. From the photos on the wall to the locally-sourced drink menu, Duluth pride is evident everywhere you look.

The Service

A major highlight to our dining experience was the service. Let me start by saying our server, Peytin Kenney, was phenomenal. At just 18 years old, she had the poise and professionalism of a server twice her age.

And, restaurant manager Dexter Baxter, who is originally from Jamaica, was a delight. He floated from table to table, chatting with each patron, and asking them what they thought of the food.

Prior to joining the Lyric team, Baxter had previously worked at Sheraton’s Restaurant 301 and Silos. As a relatively recent Duluth transplant, Baxter shared, “My wife and I came here for a friend’s wedding, fell in love with Duluth, and decided to move here. It’s a great place to raise kids, and there’s even a Reggae fest – the biggest one in the Midwest!” continued on page 36

Food And Drink

Lyric serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and their menu is eclectic, featuring wraps, burgers, pot pie, pizza, fish, steaks, pot roast, and more. There are several unique and interesting items, such as poutine, totchoes (What would happen if tots and nachos had a baby? Totchoes!), and Ahi tuna tacos.

Lyric’s beer and wine lists are extensive, with several local options to try. There are also plenty of cocktails, many of which feature Duluth’s own Vikre spirits.

What We Ate

Peytin informed us that Lyric offers not just one, but two, happy hours (from 3 – 6 pm, and again from 9 – 11 pm), featuring great deals on drinks and apps. We arrived smack-dab in the middle of Happy Hour #1, and decided to sample some half-priced chicken tenders. They were phenomenal. From the menu:

“Big, honkin’ chicken tenders, hand-battered and fried. Served with your choice of dipping sauce: jerk, honey mustard, buffalo, bbq, teriyaki or Thai.”

Speaking of those sauces, Baxter shared that Lyric’s Jamaican Jerk sauce is authentic and phenomenal.

The chicken tenders were served on an attractive square white plate, with a square ramekin of the tangy honey mustard we requested. The tenders were served piping hot, with a crispy, deep fried crust on the outside, and the chicken inside was juicy and tender.

Another server had also suggested the tenders to a table nearby. We overheard the gentleman telling Dexter they were “the best chicken tenders he’s ever had … in his life!”

When it came time to order our meal, I looked to Peytin for guidance. I was torn between ordering the salmon and the shrimp. Peytin pointed me in the direction of the salmon, saying I’d get “a larger serving of food for the same price.” Ah, a budget-friendly girl after my own heart. So, I took her advice and ordered the salmon.

From the menu:

“Fresh Atlantic Salmon fillet lightly seasoned and roasted on cedar. Served with mashed potatoes and a vegetable.” continued on page 37 continued from page 36

The salmon was served hot, and was cooked thoroughly without being overdone. It flaked easily under the weight of my fork. The salmon was served on a cedar plank, which definitely gave the fish that unique cedar taste, and, as the menu said, was very lightly seasoned.

The mashed potatoes were rich and buttery, and served in a pretty scalloped shape, which obvs made them even more delicious. The vegetable was tender baby carrots, cooked in butter and dill.

Mike opted for the Walleye. From the menu:

“This flaky flavorful fish comes broiled, deep-fried or ‘shore lunch’ style. Served with mashed potatoes and veggies.”

He ordered his fish deep-fried, subbing French fries for mashed potatoes. He received one decent-sized fillet of the Walleye, which was deep-fried in a perfectly-seasoned crispy crust. The fries were beer battered and had that nice texture of firm and crisp on the outside; soft and buttery on the inside. The Walleye was served with the same side of carrots.

Our entrees included a bread basket and a salad. We were served two types of bread: Kalamata olive, and French, with butter. Mike and I both sampled the French, which was heavenly. Served warm, it had a crisp crust on the outside, and a soft middle. The salads were large, and included a Romaine/ spring mix combo, along with cukes, tomato, croutons, and a generous portion of the dressing of your choice.

What We Drank

As our dear server Peytin isn’t even of legal drinking age, she referred all of our pairing questions to the older folks (who were probably only 25 themselves) working behind the bar. Ultimately, I paired my salmon with the Fulton Lonely Blonde, out of Minneapolis.

Featuring German noble hops, and a touch of white wheat between American pale and crystal malts, the Lonely Blonde was smooth, and, as it is on the lighter side, a nice complement to the fish.

Mike paired his walleye with the Lake Superior Kayak Kolsch. With its bright yellow-gold hue, the Kolsch offers fresh floral hop aromas. A light, refreshing thirst-quenching beer, the Kolsch was a great complement to the walleye.

The Verdict

With great food and a chill, “we’re proud to be from Duluth” vibe, Lyric is a super fun new place to try. Featuring everything from poutine and Ahi tuna tacos to the classics, there is something for everyone. And, for the more budgetminded diners, don’t forget to check out their not one, but TWO amazing happy hours.v

For more information, please visit lyrickitchenbar.com.