DUJOUR MAGAZINE

Laurent was doing something new, (and the fashion faster) our attenbut what was new was not the eletion spans wander—as do our loyvation of haute couture to art. What alties. How many designers today was new was the way in which he can claim to have dressed a gendid it—the literalness of the homeration, to have defined an era? age. His Picasso collection was not Yves Saint Laurent may be one of an abstraction of Picasso; images the last to be able to do so. And and motifs from Picasso’s work were he not only dressed the uber-rich, actually used on the garments—just his foray into ready-wear brought like Saint Laurent’s Matisse-inspired designer clothes to a wider swath designs. He took the familiar and of people, and his influence would made it new; he took high art and trickle down (and not in the form made it something to be consumed of cheap disposable fashion). The and worn; and he took fashion and, smoking jacket, the safaby referencing masters such ri dress, the peasant as Picasso and Matisse, put blouse, the pant w h at it on the same level as suit, the dyed Saint Laurent art. This proved a great fur chubby: influence: as recently did was transform staples in evas the spring 2008 ery woman’s trousers from an incollections, Miuccia wardrobe Prada, one of the tellectual statement, (well, exmost original and cluding the influential design- symbol of rebellion, or fur chubby, ers working today, something comfort- maybe); not evoked YSL’s Picajust for the able to a weapon of sso collection in her couture cussilk pants and dresses tomer, and not seduction with Art Nouveau fairies just in his time, for her eponymous line, as but, likely forever. well as the Harlequin printed Saint Laurent passed minidresses for her Miu Miu colaway on June 1, 2008 at lection. Mostly, though, Saint Lauthe age of 71 after a year-long rent made clothes that moved wombattle with brain cancer. Though en—and no amount of artistic clout he retired from the industry in or revolution could trump that. His 2002, his death still strongly remuses and customers showed a verberated throughout the fashion devotion to his work and vision of industry. We lost one of the last women that is unparalleled today— bastions of haute couture, one of how many women predominantly the true romantics of the fashion wear one designer and subscribe so world, and arguably a woman’s wholly into his or her womanly ideal? best friend.

As the market becomes more global DUJOUR 57 www.dujourmag.com