Daily Times Nigeria
Tuesday February 24, 2015
L3 Travel & Recreation
Muson centre
Entrance of TBS
Echoes of history in
Onikan Vanessa Obioha
In less than a week, Shakespeare’s Globe to Globe train will berth in Lagos to perform the stage play ‘Hamlet’. Led by Globe’s Artistic Director, Dominic Dromgoole, this UK theatre production is presenting Nigerian
actor, Ladi Emeruwa, in the shared role of Hamlet, together with an impressive international cast and crew of seventeen. The group will tour 205 countries for two years to commemorate the 450th birth anniversary of the legendary playwright William Shakespeare. Hamlet is scheduled
to hold in Muson Centre, Onikan and St. Saviours School, Ikoyi. Hamlet is an intriguing tale that provides insights to human consciousness and morality of societies. Nigeria being the 79th country to host the stellar cast, it is welcoming that the play would be set in a historical site, Onikan. Lagos Island is steeped in history of the colonial reign in Nigeria. From Tinubu Square to Onikan, the fingerprints of the colonials are still present to this day. Onikan is one of the places that boasts of historical landmarks, one of them being the Muson centre where the Hamlet would be staged. Back in the colonial days, Onikan pooled the elites to its environment with its beautiful recreation parks and scenery. In addition, it created an enabling ambience for human socialization to thrive. Situated in the heartbeat of Lagos and close to the commercial hub of the city, Onikan is laced with historical facts of the country in the colonial era. Popularly known as TBS or Race Course today, Onikan still retains some of its attractions it had in the day. For instance,
the monumental Tafawa Balewa Square which was formerly a race course where the elites held their horse racing and other track and field activities. Enriched with a vast grassland surrounded by the circular horse racing track that is delimited by two white painted concentric wooden fences, the weekends were always a date to keep for the elites. Besides the horse racing, the open space provided a field for the children then to play football. Race Course boasts of a panoramic view of the Marina water front back in the day. It is also at this estimated 14.5 hectares of land that the green white green flag of Nigeria was hoisted while the Union Jack Flag was lowered to usher in the independent era in Nigeria in 1960. The place was renamed Tafawa Balewa Square as it was in this place that the first Prime Minister of Nigeria gave his independent speech. TBS is at the heart of other notable landmarks in the country such as The High court, the Ministry of Works, the Ministry of Defence, and Kings College. Today, it is flanked by the City Mall which share the same ground with the National Museum to the right and on the left by a new extension of the massive land known as the TBS Banquet hall. It is also close to the Western House, known as the tallest building in the day. The Muson Centre stands opposite it. While what is left of the land which housed the National Assembly in the past is less appealing, the intricate designs of the entrance of the square is still untouched. The four white giant horses suspended above the gate and and 7 red eagles are still evident. They symbolised the strength and dignity as represented in the coat of arms. In 2008, the edifice was concessioned to BHS international firm to transform the square into a world-class city centre. Although, the square is seemingly going through a slow revamp, it is still a sought-
Fact file about Onikan 1. It is situated in Lagos Island area of Lagos state 2. Onikan is popularly called TBS or Race Course 3. It boasts of notable monuments in the country. 4. TBS is named after the first Prime Minister in Nigeria, Tafewa Balewa. 5. It was formerly a Race Course for horseracing in the colonial days.
The Love Garden
6. The Muson centre and National Museum are sitauted in Onikan.
after venue for carnivals, concerts and other festivals. For instance, the annual gospel concert the Experience holds here. TBS betrays not a single hint of the elegance it had in the past except for the open space. In fact, its entrance and exit gates are used as a short cut by pedestrians to connect to the other side of the road. Spaces underneath the sleeping area have turned to a sleeping ground for the homeless and vagrants while commercial activities thrive on both sides of the square. The three buildings in the square boast of business offices, particularly travel agencies. Commercial bus drivers have turned the front area of the square to a mini garage for their passengers. Moving on to the right of TBS is the City Mall which is one of the attractions of the area. Close to it is the Onikan museum where the history of Nigeria is highly preserved. The museum displays a gallery of artifacts used in the ancient days. From the wooden tray used for childbirth to the different deities and masquerade peculiar to diverse cultures in the country. Stored in this complex of history is the famous car where Muritala Mohammed was murdered. Besides the apparent daily cleaning of the car to keep it dust free, the marks of the assassination is still evident in the car. The windscreen still bears holes of the bullet penetration. Perhaps, to keep the car balance, the punctured tyres were replaced by new ones and kept in the booth of the car. In this mini garage where the car is kept, pictures of past to present rulers in the country line up the walls. It is in this museum that one can get a good glimpse of what the old Lagos looks like. Pictures of the Ikorodu road which is now tarred and lined up with skyscrapers and architectural designs was once a winding path adorned with bushes. There is also a picture of Ikoyi park as a playground for children which is present day Parkview Estate- a luxurious community of the elite. The Muson centre also has its image in the gallery. Before it was decorated with beautiful edifices, the Muson centre was a garden for lovers called the Love Garden. It was here that the colonial masters and the elites bring their loved ones to and serenade them with poetry and love letters. The central park of Lagos then providd a serene haven from the hustle andbustlemof thecity. Its serene environment was complemented by King George V swimming pool in its recess. Maybe, it is not out of place that the park was transformed to an institution of classical music. Today, the nusic society of Nigeria boasts of students with impressive excellence in opera, classical music and theatrical performances. Therefore, it is no wonder that it is the preferred choice to host the Shakespeare’s train.