Dan’s Papers March 25, 2011 danspapers.com Page 45
& SIMPLE ART OF COOKING by Silvia Lehrer
The regal artichoke is one of the oldest cultivated plants. It was first grown in Ethiopia and then made its way to Southern Europe via Egypt. The Spaniards brought it to California where it grows in abundance today. Artichokes typically only produce on perennial plants, and since they would not survive northeast winters they were not grown in New York. But a few years ago someone discovered a variety that produces the first year. The resulting artichokes – smaller than the California variety – will be available in local markets this August. Until then the California chokes will do nicely. Artichokes can be braised or fried or stuffed and steamed, affording us a medley of delicious culinary compositions. A family member recently reminded me of the braised, sweet and sour artichokes we ate as children. The dish, with roots in Spain, is a humble one. Small pieces of artichoke stewed with onions and tomatoes and sauced with lemon, vinegar and a bit of sugar make the dish sweet and tangy – but not spicy – and I loved it. As a young bride, a hefty number of years ago, a friend introduced me to the veg-
etable served whole with piquant parsley vinaigrette into which one dips the fleshy leaves. As my prowess for entertaining developed I learned that the flowerlike vegetable can be prepared completely ahead and it made a beautiful first course presentation as my guests came to the table. The recipe became favorite dinner party fare. However you prepare artichokes it is important to trim them carefully. With a sharp knife slice off the stem and trim the bottom rows, snapping off the tough larger leaves until you are left with a central cone of leaves, pale at the base and green only at the tip. Cut away about 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the top. Remove the hairy inner choke being careful not to disturb the meaty flesh beneath, the texture of which maintains the artichoke’s personality. The procedure is slightly different when artichokes are cooked whole (see recipe). Once they are cut, artichokes discolor rapidly and should be put into a bowl of acidulated water immediately; that is, water mixed with lemon juice. It is best to cut artichokes with stainless steel knives and cook in non-reactive cookware such as stainless steel or enamel. ARTICHOKES VINAIGRETTE Whole artichokes, compact with tight green leaves, make an appealing first course. Serves 4-6 4 to 6 large artichokes
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2. Place artichokes side by side in a deep non-reactive saucepan just large enough to hold them in one layer. Pour in enough water to come about 2/3 of the way up the sides. Drizzle in vegetable oil and lemon juice. Bring to a boil over high heat, uncovered, adjust heat, and then cook at a brisk simmer 25-40 minutes (according to size). When leaves release eas(continued on page 46)
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1. Cut the stems of the artichokes evenly, leaving about a 1/4-inch stub, so that they stand. Remove and discard tough outer leaves at the base. With kitchen scissors, cut off the tips of each leaf, spiraling the vegetable. Lay each artichoke on its side, and with a knife, make a sharp clean straight cut about 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the top. Put the artichokes into a bowl of acidulated water (lemon juice and water) to prevent discoloration.
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1/2 lemon 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 tablespoons lemon juice For the vinaigrette: 1 large clove garlic or shallot, finely chopped 2 to 3 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground pepper 1 tablespoon flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 1/4 tablespoons red wine vinegar 4 to 5 tablespoons extra-