The Plate

Page 29

Some makers with national distribution to seek out are Calabro Cheese Corp., made in East Haven, Conn., and Lioni Latticini, Brooklyn, N.Y. If you have a cheese shop nearby, it might carry ricotta from an artisan maker. Italian grocery stores and supermarkets with a good cheese selection often have fresh, hand-dipped ricotta. When you bring it home, try it in one of the recipes or ideas here, or perhaps the simplest way is the best. This one from Werlin: Just drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle with finely chopped fresh basil or rosemary. “It’s just a way to get the full essence of the ricotta and gussy it up a little,” she says. “Maybe sea salt on top.”

Ziti with ricotta Adapted from “Tasty,” by Roy Finamore. We’ve added fresh thyme for the freshness it brings. Cook: Heat a large pot of well-salted water to a boil; stir in 1 pound ziti or penne rigati. Cook until al dente. Mix: Meanwhile, whip 1 pound ricotta and 2 ounces fresh goat cheese (both cheeses should be at room temperature) together with a fork in a large serving bowl. Combine: Drain the pasta, reserving about a cup of the cooking water. Return pasta to the pot. Stir in the cheese mixture, 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1 to 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves; season with coarse salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper. Stir in enough of the pasta water — a little at a time — to make a

smooth sauce. Serve with grated pecorino cheese. Makes: 4 servings

Dish it up Laura Werlin offers a host of ways to use ricotta. Among them: On fresh melon: Mix ricotta with a little sugar and a little milk to extend it, then dollop it on along with fresh mint. On pizza: Dollop it on. It will soften in the oven, fanning out, but won’t melt. Mix fresh chopped herbs first, if you like. On vegetables: Steamed asparagus, with a little extra-virgin olive oil and pepper. Also zucchini, fava beans and artichokes; even thinly shaved raw artichokes. Add another cheese for saltiness, if you like, such as pecorino or Parmesan.

And from other cooks: Stuff pancakes with ricotta, says Anna Della Conte in her new book, “Italian Kitchen.” Crostini: The small slices of toasted bread are a frequent vehicle for ricotta. “Franny’s Simple Seasonal Italian” has two ideas: ricotta with olives and pistachios, and roasted cherry tomatoes with ricotta. A breakfast crostini from Michele Scicolone’s new “The Italian Vegetable Book”: Whip ricotta with honey, spread on the crostini and top with fresh halved figs and toasted sliced almonds. Dip: One of our favorite recipes is a simple ricotta and herb dip: Place 1 cup drained ricotta in a bowl; stir in 2 tablespoons

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