The Plate

Page 10

•The protein: What is it and how thick? •Burner temperature: What does “medium high heat” mean, anyway? Yikes. Here’s my best advice: Accept the fact that cooking well is not easy and requires practice. You’ll cook some things imperfectly, and that’s OK. Approach every meal as practice. The more you practice, the quicker you’ll understand those variables. Plan on having chicken breasts or pork chops or salmon fillets three times this week or, better yet, invite some friends over and cook 10 pieces of whatever in quick succession. Pay attention. Take notes. Use an instant read thermometer to track the speed at which the meat cooks. And press on the top to feel it firm up as the meat cooks. Yes, it’s science. But, it’s not rocket science. You can do it. Here are the basics: 1. Set a sloped-sided saute pan, just big enough to hold your protein comfortably, over medium-high heat. 2. When it’s hot, add just enough fat — oil, clarified butter — to coat the bottom of the pan.

3. Add your seasoned protein to the pan, presentation side down. (“Presentation side” is the most visually appealing side.) Don’t touch the meat until it has developed a nice crust and is about halfway done, then flip it and cook until done. Once again, what’s “done”? Well, here’s where that practice comes in. A good indication of doneness is touch. Raw meat is spongy. The more it cooks, the more the proteins tighten up and the firmer it becomes. Make a point, whenever you cook protein, to poke it and poke it some more. Feel the changes as it cooks. Insert an instant read thermometer frequently to make the connection between internal temperature and firmness. Take notes. You’ll get it. One last thing: It’s true that, instead of flipping proteins only once, flipping them every 30 to 60 seconds throughout cooking can result in more even doneness with reduced cooking time. Personally, I find the constant flipping somewhat bothersome and the results are not better enough to warrant the annoyance. If you want to try it, though, feel free. And take lots of notes.

Accept the fact that

cooking well is not easy and requires practice.

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THE PLATE • JUNE 2014

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